I really like Farrier’s rasps because they have a good weight and are a great length. I'm particularly fond of the new Cody James Dymondback Rasp. I highly recommend trying the Cody James Rasp, even if you're not a fan of Farrier’s rasps in general, the handles for Farrier’s rasps are superb!
I paid stupid money for a rounded Iwasaki............teeth jam up with wood immediately. Very hard to clean. Tried chalking it, but no help. Love the Shinto.
The Iwasakis do clog with pine and other high resin woods. No issue with clogging with hardwoods. If there is a buildup with hardwoods, I tap end of the rasp on my bench and the shavings fall out. But for pine, I often need a card file/brush to clean it.
@@practicalclubmaker6152 and give them a clean out as soon as some clogging becomes evident ... it only takes a second or two. - don't wait till it clogs up solid.
I use the shinto for large sculpture. I got the offset handle version so that I can use it like a plane. Mostly I just use it without the handle at all now, works good sideways like a spokeshave, too.
@@michaelsaxman Good tip on using the Shinto like a spokeshave. That would come in handy where the grain direction switches compared to using a traditional spokeshave. Kind of like using a toothing plane instead of a traditional plane.
I've used most all of them on hardwood. One I like but you didn't include is a farriers rasp--the big one. It's SUPER coarse on one side and medium coarse on the other. They'll hog off wood quickly, but be mindful of the ruts being cut. Another favorite of mine is a soft-materials file -like your Iwasaki shown. I don't know where I got it or what the specs are, but it's fantastic for wood, horn, and plastic. It cuts smoother than any rasp. I also use rasps and the Shinto. I have one machine-made rasp and also a hand-stitched rasp (mia-but I'll find it someday). Also I'm a fan of the draw-knife and spoke shave. More tools, more options for what the grain is doing today.
@@wadepatton2433 Good point on the hoof rasps. Somebody else I know mentioned that so, thanks, I will have to give that a try. Any particular brand of farrier's rasp that you like?
@@practicalclubmaker6152 Nah, just whatever the local farm store has. They're a good bit cheaper than rasps, but only good for rough shaping. Reverse directions as needed for a "smoother" cut, they can get nasty when fighting the grain.
Absolutely ! I use a Heller Excel Legend and it eats wood at speed. Rasp on one side and a medium single cut file on the other. The cutting edge angles are excellent for wood Only con is that don't make a half round. ps I also use a Sandvik Oberg fine rasp - 25 years so far of regular use and it is a sharp as day one. Sandvik no longer make files and rasps but if you see a good secondhand one, grab it What ever you buy, look after it well and keep the blade in a sheath. Never use any of these on metals of any sort - you will quickly destroy them.
I think Farrier's rasps are great but the handles for Farrier's rasps are amazing - much more comfortable and workable in the hand. Try the Heller Red Tang if you want to start experimenting and make sure you buy a Farrier's rasp handle.
@@gregorymacneil2836 Hopefully your post will help someone else considering a farriers rasp. I have made all my tool handles for over 50 years and have long since found the shapes that fit my hand for different tools, so I'll pass on this one thanks
That joke about Japanese hammers was A+!
A well made and super informative video.
I really like Farrier’s rasps because they have a good weight and are a great length. I'm particularly fond of the new Cody James Dymondback Rasp. I highly recommend trying the Cody James Rasp, even if you're not a fan of Farrier’s rasps in general, the handles for Farrier’s rasps are superb!
I paid stupid money for a rounded Iwasaki............teeth jam up with wood immediately. Very hard to clean. Tried chalking it, but no help. Love the Shinto.
The Iwasakis do clog with pine and other high resin woods. No issue with clogging with hardwoods. If there is a buildup with hardwoods, I tap end of the rasp on my bench and the shavings fall out. But for pine, I often need a card file/brush to clean it.
@@practicalclubmaker6152
and give them a clean out as soon as some clogging becomes evident ... it only takes a second or two. - don't wait till it clogs up solid.
I use the shinto for large sculpture. I got the offset handle version so that I can use it like a plane. Mostly I just use it without the handle at all now, works good sideways like a spokeshave, too.
@@michaelsaxman Good tip on using the Shinto like a spokeshave. That would come in handy where the grain direction switches compared to using a traditional spokeshave. Kind of like using a toothing plane instead of a traditional plane.
I've used most all of them on hardwood. One I like but you didn't include is a farriers rasp--the big one. It's SUPER coarse on one side and medium coarse on the other. They'll hog off wood quickly, but be mindful of the ruts being cut. Another favorite of mine is a soft-materials file -like your Iwasaki shown. I don't know where I got it or what the specs are, but it's fantastic for wood, horn, and plastic. It cuts smoother than any rasp. I also use rasps and the Shinto. I have one machine-made rasp and also a hand-stitched rasp (mia-but I'll find it someday).
Also I'm a fan of the draw-knife and spoke shave. More tools, more options for what the grain is doing today.
@@wadepatton2433 Good point on the hoof rasps. Somebody else I know mentioned that so, thanks, I will have to give that a try. Any particular brand of farrier's rasp that you like?
@@practicalclubmaker6152 Nah, just whatever the local farm store has. They're a good bit cheaper than rasps, but only good for rough shaping. Reverse directions as needed for a "smoother" cut, they can get nasty when fighting the grain.
Absolutely ! I use a Heller Excel Legend and it eats wood at speed. Rasp on one side and a medium single cut file on the other. The cutting edge angles are excellent for wood
Only con is that don't make a half round.
ps I also use a Sandvik Oberg fine rasp - 25 years so far of regular use and it is a sharp as day one. Sandvik no longer make files and rasps but if you see a good secondhand one, grab it
What ever you buy, look after it well and keep the blade in a sheath. Never use any of these on metals of any sort - you will quickly destroy them.
I think Farrier's rasps are great but the handles for Farrier's rasps are amazing - much more comfortable and workable in the hand. Try the Heller Red Tang if you want to start experimenting and make sure you buy a Farrier's rasp handle.
@@gregorymacneil2836
Hopefully your post will help someone else considering a farriers rasp. I have made all my tool handles for over 50 years and have long since found the shapes that fit my hand for different tools, so I'll pass on this one thanks
Good video
@@PeanutsDadForever Thanks
Nice overview. Thanks. Would you mind spelling out the Japanese and French names. Shinto I know. Appreciate
@@ericerf6837
Iwasaki
Liogier
Auriou
Shinto
Narex (not recommended)
@@practicalclubmaker6152 Helps, thank you.
Why is this video vertical, WTF. Am I supposed to turn my monitor or TV around ?