We were surprised too. Notice that it actually actually lifted the workbench a few inches before it snapped. I had over 100 lbs. (45 kilos) of lead shot in the tray under the benchtop just to keep that from happening.
I'm a young guy who aspires to be a skilled woodworker one day. From day 1 with my circular saw and some construction lumber, your channel has been a constant resource for down-to-earth guidance on how to safely and smartly work with wood - you're the "wise craftsman grandpa" I never had. Just wanted to thank you Nick and let you know you're doing something great for a lot of folks out there learning the ropes of this craft in 2024 and beyond.
Banger video. I had initially dismissed it expecting I knew everything and then you went into the science and molecules of the glue and I realized you are a true master! These are wonderfully edited too.
My father has always gone on about a book called "understanding wood" by bruce hadley. This feels like a far more practical explanation than that book and it just makes so much more sense to me. I had never understood why my father made desks with floating breadboard ends but seeing this it makes so much more sense. Also absolutely astounding that end-to-end glue joints could even be that strong, in areas that arent subjected to much racking or any deformation forces, it looks like it could be viable joint?
I have Bruce Hoadley's books, and he is an insightful although sometimes impenetrable writer. As for end-to-end glue joints, the chemists at Franklin Inc. (home of Titebond) showed me that trick when I interviewed them for my book "Gluing and Clamping." They had their salesmen glue two 2x4s together, lay the assembly across two cement blocks, and stand on it.
I'm pushing 70 years now - Grand Parents on both sides of family worked wood, I have a BS degree - with a large emphasis in plastics, (most glues fall into what we call plastics). I saw two joints that I have never herd of or seen before. This video should be required watch material by every person world over who will attempt to glue two adjoining surfaces, or have attempted and failed! Well done - with great informative detail. Thanks to your whole team for creating and sharing!!
A master is one who not only knows how to use the materials he works with, but understands the materials themselves. I'm very impressed by this man's knowledge of the material science around woodworking. It's not often I hear a woodworker differentiate between adhesion and cohesion - never!
I've had a lot of these principles explained to me before, but goes to show what an excellent communicator your are that your explanations are so much more succinct and understandable in a way that makes it easier to click with, both on the why it works and how to apply it practically
After 15 years of watching woodworking channels and half of them spent woodworking and practising, your channel is definetly the best. Pure, gold knowledge given from an lovely human being. Thank you!
Most woodworkers don't know this. You don't only need glue. You need wood as well to make a string joint with wood, and you have to bring the two pieces into close proximity, open the bottle, apply the glue to an appropriate configuration and customization of the wood and even apply a force to the wood to make sure the wood fibers are in REALLY close proximity. Most wood workers don't know this. They usually forget to open the bottle of glue and merely wave it over the wood like a wand while reciting Latin.
Nick is without a doubt the best woodworking teacher on TH-cam. His videos are so informative on a level that amateur woodworkers can understand. Love the dog too.
I grabbed a copy of your book - and its another winner, just like the videos. Thanks for making this much knowledge (400 pages?!) available for such a reasonable price. We are clearly benefiting from a lifetime of experience.
Thanks for saying. I wrote "Woodworking Wisdom" immediately after finishing the Workshop Companion series -- the series was an encyclopedia, the book was its condensation. It wrapped up what I had found to be the core knowledge necessary to be a competent craftsman. We did some serious updating to include new info and sources that have appeared since it was first published. And now that it's in digital format, we'll continue with that updating as new developments arise.
A topic of vital importance not only for woodworking but also for adhesives and adhesion, in general, was presented efficiently. As a retired R&D scientist with 40 years of experience in the materials industry, I must say you did a splendid job of driving the salient points home
When we built bridges out of popsicle sticks in engineering class in high school, after I assembled mine, I coated the whole thing in wood glue and it significantly made it stronger.
This couldnt come at a better time nick! I just finished gluing up my firat box and i am wondering if glue alone will get it to heirloom levels of durability. No sooner did you mention adhesion and cohesion than did i put the clamps back on my project. I had taken em off to clean squeezeout. Hopefully I havent undermined the joints.
Besides your plethora of knowledge and experience, your presentation skills make me think that you have educated yourself on declamation. You have very clear and understandable speech for non-native speakers like me. Thank you. 🙏🙏
It's because the plywood glue joints -- the urea-formaldehyde the holds the veneers together -- let go before the Titebond. The plywood spline came apart!
Your channel is pure gold. I just ordered your book. I hope you sell a million copies. Thank you for including all the "background science" for WHY things are best done a certain way.
These are some of my favorite videos on this platform. They're informative, funny, and understandable. Thank you to your team for all you're doing and providing.
I absolutely did not expect these two end to end joints at 12:10 to be as strong as they were. Fascinating tests, thanks a lot Nick! Incredible video as always!
I’ve watched a few tens of videos of this same subject, this is by far the best one I’ve watched. Not as scientific as some other videos, however much more practical and useful. Thank you very much for the work!
i've had 'Woodworking Wisdom' in my shop for over 20 years. As a self-taught wood butcher, it has really saved me a lot of anguish. Of course there are many ways to tackle any woodworking problem, but the advice in that book will never be wrong and it is very clear and understandable. It was my first woodworking book and it's still the one I use the most.
I found out about this over 50 years ago in Highschool wood shop. My shop teacher made a laminated joint of two pieces of one by six planks joined edge to edge. Clamped them together to make aone by twelve, about three feet long. A couple days later, our teacher demonstrated how much stronger the joint was than the boards themselves. They split at the grain again and again and the joint never split. And the glue was just white Elmer's. Nothing special.
i am from the Philippines, i have been using your books gifted to me by my friend in the Manila office of Peace Corps...they made me a better cabinetmaker...(like your Making Built-in Cabinets)
So the best interface for effective gluing strength is to have the wood joints be perpendicular to the main force that would be acting upon it, put multiple coats of glue to fill in more gaps thus increasing bond, and consider a small amount of extra space in the joints for expansion and contraction The first one seems effective if the wood is going to have an acting force upon it The second one seems more effective if the wood is going to be exerting a force The third one seems more effective if the wood is going to be undergoing weather conditions Knowing what the wood will do can determine the appropriate technique
Very cool how well the theory works in practice here. I do still think it's quite amazing how strong wood and glue are. Even without a tenon, 20kg of force on such a tiny glue surface is pretty incredible!
Nick, you always elevate my established knowledge base to another level. I didn't expect to learn much from this video. I was incorrect in that expectation. Thank you.
When you get down into the weeds of material strength, you quickly learn just how little a single value like adhesion strength actually matters when determining the strength of a joint. In addition to the many great complicating factors pointed out in the video, you also have to think about the joint geometry and how it affects the force on the glue. Think about tape bonded to a surface. Even a fairly small piece of tape can have surprisingly large force needed to pull it off it you are pulling perfectly perpendicular to the surface it's bonded to. E.g.: think of two pieces of metal that are bonded by a single piece of double sided tape. If you pull those pieces of metal apart with perfectly perpendicular force to the joint, it might take hundreds of pounds of force to pull the metal pieces apart. However, if you just have the tape stuck to one piece of metal and pick up the edge and peel it off, it might only be a pound or two or force needed to peel it. The huge difference is that when you peel the tape off, you are only breaking adhesion on a very tiny line at the exact place the tape is pulling off the surface. That way, you only need to break a tiny bit of the tapes adhesion strength at a time instead of all at once. Same thing happens in a butt joint in furniture. When you rack that joint, half of the bonding surface is in compression, which already doubles the force per area on the half of the glue joint that is in tension. Further, the wood bends slightly so edge of the far side of the joint that sees the highest stress will break first, like how the tape peels up. The breaking of the glue then zippers across the joint as it opens up. Since you are only breaking a small percentage of the joint at any given time, the racking strength is much lower. If you have a dowel or biscuit in the joint, that additional glue surface area is now parallel to the racking force so the entire bulk wood/biscuit joint feels the same amount of stress from the racking force because that part of the joint is in shear, not tension. There's no simple way for one small part of that joint to fail, it has to all go at once. Because of that, the racking strength is much higher.
Prof Nick, please do wear your "White Apron'. That has to be one of the best explanations that I have seen. And thank you also for the metric equivalents as most of the world uses Kg, and mm
The most important thing is using the right joint and right techniques for the right project. I've made hundreds of picture frames with a miter joint and no spline. Plenty of strength to house paintings, photographs, and other basic stuff. I would not hang a bowling ball from one of these.
For end to end I'm a fan of the sawtooth joint. I've never cut one myself, but just seen it used in commercial products to lengthen a board when purchasing wood strips. The advantage is you get the full cross section of cellulose fibers running throughout the joint, unlike the "square tooth" or "top of a castle" joint, that cuts through half of the fiber area in one go, or the dowel or mortice joint that has only the cross section of them. The second is there is very little end to end grain gluing. The third is that if you make the sawtooth edges long enough, not only can you can get a huge gluing area, but reduced leverage on the glue in an end to end attempted bend. The ideal length is just strong enough that the board would break somewhere else if bent or pulled apart end to end, though there is no leverage advantage in the pull apart test.
Brilliant, well presented and clear information. Really glad to have found your channel. I am learning so much and find that I am retaining the knowledge I have picked up because of the way you explain everything. Thank you.
Wonderful and educational. Maybe a follow up would be amount of clamping force, how to distribute clamping force over area, and most importantly, how long of a time. Overnights seem too long, and I’ve heard others say that 1.5 hours is more than enough time. They’ve figured out stains to cure almost instantly with UV light, the only thing that delays projects are glue clamp ups and time. Could an instant adhesive (and I don’t mean CA glue) be in the near future???
RF (for Radio Frequency) glues have been around since he 1940s, and are used by many production shops. A high frequency RF gun (operating between 2 and 30 MHZ) cures the glue in seconds.
I used to do these British Standard tests using an Instrom machine in the building Industry . Your tests were first class and made a fascinating video. My job was to engineer the test rigs for plaster board fixings.
Hey Nick! Here's a thought: try using the glue's natural solvent first to penetrate the wood more deeply on the end grain joints. Water is a good solvent for the wood glues and acetone for the CAs. Maybe the solvent would carry some of the glue more deeply into the grain. The deeper the glue can travel, the more surface area is involved. So add solvent just before pre-gluing the end-grain. Just a thought. Great videos.
Water dilutes the glue and this dilution adversely affects its strength. If you want a deeper penetration, the better plan might be to use a more viscous glue. For example, Titebond III is more viscous that Titebond II. As such, it might offer better penetration, especially in dense woods..
If you're talking about Woodworking Wisdom, It took me about ten years. As I was writing the Workshop Companion encyclopedia, I came to realize there was certain things that I had to explain over and over again with each new book in the series. This was the "core" woodworking knowledge one needs to be a reasonably competent craftsman. So when I was finished with the encyclopedia, I boiled it down into "Woodworking Wisdom."
What a large wealth of information in these videos. I look forward watching your videos and just knowing that I'll learn something new to better my woodworking skills. Thank you!
When talking about the interface of the joint itself racking is know as "peel stress", whereas racking normally refers to the mechanical defamation of the structure typically with a box frame into a parallelogram. So sheer on a joint is just that but sheer on an structure may case racking as would be parallel to anchor points but with leverage causing the failure of the joint.
Sometimes, wood gets glued to things that aren't wood, like plastic or metal. In those cases, you also *must* consider surface prep. The mating surfaces must be scrupulously clean & free of all oils, passing a water break test if viable for the material (mostly metals). Even microscopic films of oil can prevent adhesion. Some surfaces may also need to be roughened, to increase the contact area.
Personal note: saw several of your shorts, sent one to my Dad (woodworking/does everything guy) with a quick note to check you out. Got a response! "Seems to know his stuff. Approved source." . For me, there is no higher praise.
That is a lot of pure, concentrated information, presented in a concise, effective way.
The straight dope of carprentry injected directly into our eyes/veins for 17 minutes and change
Thanks for saying.
This was awesome! My jaw dropped when it took over 77kg to snap the horizontal grain one. Wonderfully made, reminiscent of old TH-cam. Keep it up.
We were surprised too. Notice that it actually actually lifted the workbench a few inches before it snapped. I had over 100 lbs. (45 kilos) of lead shot in the tray under the benchtop just to keep that from happening.
You're the best TH-cam content creator for woodworking, by far.
Thanks for the kind words.
I'm a young guy who aspires to be a skilled woodworker one day. From day 1 with my circular saw and some construction lumber, your channel has been a constant resource for down-to-earth guidance on how to safely and smartly work with wood - you're the "wise craftsman grandpa" I never had. Just wanted to thank you Nick and let you know you're doing something great for a lot of folks out there learning the ropes of this craft in 2024 and beyond.
Remember there is only one you, but you can always buy new stuff, so safety is number 1, 2 and 3 and after that is money and time.
Banger video. I had initially dismissed it expecting I knew everything and then you went into the science and molecules of the glue and I realized you are a true master! These are wonderfully edited too.
Thanks. Much of that was Travis' doing -- those were some of his first ventures into serious animation.
I came for woodworking. I stayed for penetrative adherence.
I was literally going to say something like this.😂
That’s what Xi said.
Is it safe to say you were stuck to your seat? (I'll show myself out...)
That's hot
I was glued to the screen. Hopefully I can adhere to the principles. Ok that’s enough goof off.
My father has always gone on about a book called "understanding wood" by bruce hadley. This feels like a far more practical explanation than that book and it just makes so much more sense to me. I had never understood why my father made desks with floating breadboard ends but seeing this it makes so much more sense. Also absolutely astounding that end-to-end glue joints could even be that strong, in areas that arent subjected to much racking or any deformation forces, it looks like it could be viable joint?
I have Bruce Hoadley's books, and he is an insightful although sometimes impenetrable writer. As for end-to-end glue joints, the chemists at Franklin Inc. (home of Titebond) showed me that trick when I interviewed them for my book "Gluing and Clamping." They had their salesmen glue two 2x4s together, lay the assembly across two cement blocks, and stand on it.
I'm pushing 70 years now - Grand Parents on both sides of family worked wood, I have a BS degree - with a large emphasis in plastics, (most glues fall into what we call plastics). I saw two joints that I have never herd of or seen before. This video should be required watch material by every person world over who will attempt to glue two adjoining surfaces, or have attempted and failed! Well done - with great informative detail. Thanks to your whole team for creating and sharing!!
Thanks for the kind words.
I often think my degree is a load of BS too 😉
A master is one who not only knows how to use the materials he works with, but understands the materials themselves. I'm very impressed by this man's knowledge of the material science around woodworking. It's not often I hear a woodworker differentiate between adhesion and cohesion - never!
I've had a lot of these principles explained to me before, but goes to show what an excellent communicator your are that your explanations are so much more succinct and understandable in a way that makes it easier to click with, both on the why it works and how to apply it practically
Thanks.
After 15 years of watching woodworking channels and half of them spent woodworking and practising, your channel is definetly the best. Pure, gold knowledge given from an lovely human being. Thank you!
Most woodworkers don't know this. You don't only need glue. You need wood as well to make a string joint with wood, and you have to bring the two pieces into close proximity, open the bottle, apply the glue to an appropriate configuration and customization of the wood and even apply a force to the wood to make sure the wood fibers are in REALLY close proximity. Most wood workers don't know this. They usually forget to open the bottle of glue and merely wave it over the wood like a wand while reciting Latin.
Nick is without a doubt the best woodworking teacher on TH-cam. His videos are so informative on a level that amateur woodworkers can understand. Love the dog too.
Thanks for saying.
I grabbed a copy of your book - and its another winner, just like the videos. Thanks for making this much knowledge (400 pages?!) available for such a reasonable price. We are clearly benefiting from a lifetime of experience.
Thanks for saying. I wrote "Woodworking Wisdom" immediately after finishing the Workshop Companion series -- the series was an encyclopedia, the book was its condensation. It wrapped up what I had found to be the core knowledge necessary to be a competent craftsman. We did some serious updating to include new info and sources that have appeared since it was first published. And now that it's in digital format, we'll continue with that updating as new developments arise.
You make me realize all the mistakes I made 😢 thanks 😊
Most welcome. And sorry.
A topic of vital importance not only for woodworking but also for adhesives and adhesion, in general, was presented efficiently. As a retired R&D scientist with 40 years of experience in the materials industry, I must say you did a splendid job of driving the salient points home
Thanks for your kind words.
When we built bridges out of popsicle sticks in engineering class in high school, after I assembled mine, I coated the whole thing in wood glue and it significantly made it stronger.
I'll pass that on to the city engineers -- they're currently repairing a bridge over a nearby river...;-)
This couldnt come at a better time nick! I just finished gluing up my firat box and i am wondering if glue alone will get it to heirloom levels of durability.
No sooner did you mention adhesion and cohesion than did i put the clamps back on my project. I had taken em off to clean squeezeout. Hopefully I havent undermined the joints.
The Einstein of wood is back 👍
He stole his hairstyle, that’s for certain
I have notifications turned on for exactly one channel and this is it.
PHENOMENAL video. Best content on the internet for glueing
Thanks Nick and Travis!
Besides your plethora of knowledge and experience, your presentation skills make me think that you have educated yourself on declamation. You have very clear and understandable speech for non-native speakers like me. Thank you. 🙏🙏
That little "woah" when the plywood miter spline broke caught me off guard
It's because the plywood glue joints -- the urea-formaldehyde the holds the veneers together -- let go before the Titebond. The plywood spline came apart!
Concise and humorous. This video is a standard for TH-camrs.
No matter how hard I try, I always learn something from your videos! Thanks Nick.
Love the way Nick explains things.
I always look forward to his videos.
Thanks.
Your channel is pure gold. I just ordered your book. I hope you sell a million copies. Thank you for including all the "background science" for WHY things are best done a certain way.
These are some of my favorite videos on this platform. They're informative, funny, and understandable. Thank you to your team for all you're doing and providing.
This kind of nerdy yet accessible materials science is my jam
This is the best summary video of glue joints while providing enough detail so information can be applied that I have seen. Thank you.
I absolutely did not expect these two end to end joints at 12:10 to be as strong as they were. Fascinating tests, thanks a lot Nick! Incredible video as always!
The wood whisperer in action. Thank you for the video Nick, immensely informative and paced really well too.
Most welcome.
I’ve watched a few tens of videos of this same subject, this is by far the best one I’ve watched. Not as scientific as some other videos, however much more practical and useful. Thank you very much for the work!
i've had 'Woodworking Wisdom' in my shop for over 20 years. As a self-taught wood butcher, it has really saved me a lot of anguish. Of course there are many ways to tackle any woodworking problem, but the advice in that book will never be wrong and it is very clear and understandable. It was my first woodworking book and it's still the one I use the most.
19,000 views in 8 hours! Love your content and, as always, thank you for taking the time to share 🌞
I found out about this over 50 years ago in Highschool wood shop.
My shop teacher made a laminated joint of two pieces of one by six planks joined edge to edge. Clamped them together to make aone by twelve, about three feet long. A couple days later, our teacher demonstrated how much stronger the joint was than the boards themselves. They split at the grain again and again and the joint never split. And the glue was just white Elmer's. Nothing special.
17min Long vid!!! I’m gonna need to get home from work and make some popcorn for this one
i am from the Philippines, i have been using your books gifted to me by my friend in the Manila office of Peace Corps...they made me a better cabinetmaker...(like your Making Built-in Cabinets)
So the best interface for effective gluing strength is to have the wood joints be perpendicular to the main force that would be acting upon it, put multiple coats of glue to fill in more gaps thus increasing bond, and consider a small amount of extra space in the joints for expansion and contraction
The first one seems effective if the wood is going to have an acting force upon it
The second one seems more effective if the wood is going to be exerting a force
The third one seems more effective if the wood is going to be undergoing weather conditions
Knowing what the wood will do can determine the appropriate technique
Love these videos! Adding your book to my Christmas list!
Very cool how well the theory works in practice here. I do still think it's quite amazing how strong wood and glue are. Even without a tenon, 20kg of force on such a tiny glue surface is pretty incredible!
Best glue joint video ever! And I’ve watched a ton.
Thanks.
Good info. Condensed for understand-ability without reducing anything to the point of inaccuracy. Very nice.
Thanks.
Nick, you always elevate my established knowledge base to another level. I didn't expect to learn much from this video. I was incorrect in that expectation. Thank you.
I knew conceptually that grain direction matters but I never paid attention to it. Now I will
When you get down into the weeds of material strength, you quickly learn just how little a single value like adhesion strength actually matters when determining the strength of a joint. In addition to the many great complicating factors pointed out in the video, you also have to think about the joint geometry and how it affects the force on the glue.
Think about tape bonded to a surface. Even a fairly small piece of tape can have surprisingly large force needed to pull it off it you are pulling perfectly perpendicular to the surface it's bonded to. E.g.: think of two pieces of metal that are bonded by a single piece of double sided tape. If you pull those pieces of metal apart with perfectly perpendicular force to the joint, it might take hundreds of pounds of force to pull the metal pieces apart. However, if you just have the tape stuck to one piece of metal and pick up the edge and peel it off, it might only be a pound or two or force needed to peel it. The huge difference is that when you peel the tape off, you are only breaking adhesion on a very tiny line at the exact place the tape is pulling off the surface. That way, you only need to break a tiny bit of the tapes adhesion strength at a time instead of all at once.
Same thing happens in a butt joint in furniture. When you rack that joint, half of the bonding surface is in compression, which already doubles the force per area on the half of the glue joint that is in tension. Further, the wood bends slightly so edge of the far side of the joint that sees the highest stress will break first, like how the tape peels up. The breaking of the glue then zippers across the joint as it opens up. Since you are only breaking a small percentage of the joint at any given time, the racking strength is much lower.
If you have a dowel or biscuit in the joint, that additional glue surface area is now parallel to the racking force so the entire bulk wood/biscuit joint feels the same amount of stress from the racking force because that part of the joint is in shear, not tension. There's no simple way for one small part of that joint to fail, it has to all go at once. Because of that, the racking strength is much higher.
Prof Nick, please do wear your "White Apron'. That has to be one of the best explanations that I have seen. And thank you also for the metric equivalents as most of the world uses Kg, and mm
Thanks for saying. (I don't have a white apron.)
This is just brilliant education content, delivered free and so effectively. Thank you for sharing.
The most important thing is using the right joint and right techniques for the right project. I've made hundreds of picture frames with a miter joint and no spline. Plenty of strength to house paintings, photographs, and other basic stuff. I would not hang a bowling ball from one of these.
great video! kept me glued at the screen
Somebody else seemed to be stuck to his seat. I'll need to post a warning...
Fantastic, Nick! Thanks a bunch for the lesson!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Best channel on TH-cam
Aw shucks...(drags toe in sand)
I love this so much, I feel like I'm 9 years old and watching a science show on PBS again
For end to end I'm a fan of the sawtooth joint. I've never cut one myself, but just seen it used in commercial products to lengthen a board when purchasing wood strips. The advantage is you get the full cross section of cellulose fibers running throughout the joint, unlike the "square tooth" or "top of a castle" joint, that cuts through half of the fiber area in one go, or the dowel or mortice joint that has only the cross section of them.
The second is there is very little end to end grain gluing.
The third is that if you make the sawtooth edges long enough, not only can you can get a huge gluing area, but reduced leverage on the glue in an end to end attempted bend. The ideal length is just strong enough that the board would break somewhere else if bent or pulled apart end to end, though there is no leverage advantage in the pull apart test.
I'm so happy to have found your channel. You're an amazing teacher!
Your knowledge knows no bounds. Your explanations are simple & to the point !! Keep up the good work !!
Excellent teacher. Valuable content. Nick is awesome.
I love it when a video comes out from this channel!
Thank you so much for all your teaching! I love your videos ❤
Thanks for your kind words.
Nick, you are the best youtuber out there for learning, I am so very grateful. :)
Brilliant, well presented and clear information. Really glad to have found your channel. I am learning so much and find that I am retaining the knowledge I have picked up because of the way you explain everything. Thank you.
Wonderful and educational. Maybe a follow up would be amount of clamping force, how to distribute clamping force over area, and most importantly, how long of a time. Overnights seem too long, and I’ve heard others say that 1.5 hours is more than enough time. They’ve figured out stains to cure almost instantly with UV light, the only thing that delays projects are glue clamp ups and time. Could an instant adhesive (and I don’t mean CA glue) be in the near future???
RF (for Radio Frequency) glues have been around since he 1940s, and are used by many production shops. A high frequency RF gun (operating between 2 and 30 MHZ) cures the glue in seconds.
great video stuffed full of amazing info. Should be required viewing for anyone getting into woodworking.
I used to do these British Standard tests using an Instrom machine in the building Industry .
Your tests were first class and made a fascinating video. My job was to engineer the test rigs for plaster board fixings.
Check out who “sponsors” British Standards?
Wow! That’s an excellent and effective demonstration. Lots of great info! Thank you!
This man is a national treasure!
I appreciate your videos, the information is always timely and practical. Please keep posting, the more often the better!
This guy is a treasure ...
A really good, well needed instructional video. Thank you
thank you for answering the "why don't they make the plane out of the blackbox" question 🤣
Hey Nick! Here's a thought: try using the glue's natural solvent first to penetrate the wood more deeply on the end grain joints. Water is a good solvent for the wood glues and acetone for the CAs. Maybe the solvent would carry some of the glue more deeply into the grain. The deeper the glue can travel, the more surface area is involved. So add solvent just before pre-gluing the end-grain. Just a thought. Great videos.
Water dilutes the glue and this dilution adversely affects its strength. If you want a deeper penetration, the better plan might be to use a more viscous glue. For example, Titebond III is more viscous that Titebond II. As such, it might offer better penetration, especially in dense woods..
Always a pleasure. Thank you!
Most welcome.
Excellent presentation. I've added it to my permanent bookmarks list.
Thanks.
Masterful presentation.
Excellent explanation of wood and glue appplication
Always learn from your show thanks.
It’s a great day when I see a new video by mr. Engler.
WOW what a concise book! How long did take to write it?
If you're talking about Woodworking Wisdom, It took me about ten years. As I was writing the Workshop Companion encyclopedia, I came to realize there was certain things that I had to explain over and over again with each new book in the series. This was the "core" woodworking knowledge one needs to be a reasonably competent craftsman. So when I was finished with the encyclopedia, I boiled it down into "Woodworking Wisdom."
@@WorkshopCompanion Did you get it printed?
@@davidjanis1997 It was originally published by Rodale Press.
Great information and clear explanation, thank you!
Interesting topic and great presentation Nick! Great to see you back posting again! 🔨🔨👍👍
What a large wealth of information in these videos. I look forward watching your videos and just knowing that I'll learn something new to better my woodworking skills. Thank you!
Most welcome, and thank you for the kind words.
I've never heard about gluing pieces twice before. You always hear the usual Hype about Titebond wood glue but I've never heard of that notion.
LOL... awesome... I've been doing all the splines at home wrong :)
When talking about the interface of the joint itself racking is know as "peel stress", whereas racking normally refers to the mechanical defamation of the structure typically with a box frame into a parallelogram. So sheer on a joint is just that but sheer on an structure may case racking as would be parallel to anchor points but with leverage causing the failure of the joint.
So many dormant questions of mine have been answered. Thank you
Most welcome.
Lots of great information.
Brilliant! Best explanation ever...
Thank you for sharing! 👍
Great, easily learned information. Many thanks from the UK.
Most welcome.
This was a totally awesome presentation! I will get the book!
Brilliant video with so much useful information. Thank you.
Brilliant explanation, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
That pure resin that served as tenon should be cured for several days to ensure the inner part fully cured as well.
Very good video. Organized, informative, and to the point.
Thanks.
Excellent video as always. Very informative and entertaining, keep up the great work.
Thank you for sharing the info, your kind attribution is well received and noticed 👍🏻
THANKS FOR A GREAT VIDEO
Great video. Thank you
Most welcome.
Sometimes, wood gets glued to things that aren't wood, like plastic or metal. In those cases, you also *must* consider surface prep. The mating surfaces must be scrupulously clean & free of all oils, passing a water break test if viable for the material (mostly metals). Even microscopic films of oil can prevent adhesion. Some surfaces may also need to be roughened, to increase the contact area.
Personal note: saw several of your shorts, sent one to my Dad (woodworking/does everything guy) with a quick note to check you out.
Got a response! "Seems to know his stuff. Approved source."
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For me, there is no higher praise.