Hey everybody! I just did this exact process to a composite stock that came on a Weatherby Vanguard in 7mm Rem Mag. The stock actually bent due to recoil (I could see the white marks on the green plastic from stretching) After using the two part epoxy, the stock is as stiff as a board and has a little more weight. This is comforting with the magnum recoil. I would recommend this method on any of the newer composite stocks in the budget rifle category. Cost was $27. One box could easily do 10 stocks. Thanks for the advice and Merry Christmas!
I use a similar method that has been mentioned by using cheap carbon fiber arrows cut to the correct length but instead of using some kind of hardened epoxy or anything like that I use urethane caulking. Once cured it holds those carbon fiber arrow shafts in place solidly and because it has a semi-rubbery consistency it also acts as a vibration dampener as well as mitigating the hollow sound of the plain factory stock.
Sorry to comment two years later, but I was wondering how you install the arrows? Do you just dremel out two channels then place them in and caulk over them? I have a TC Compass I want to harden up a bit.
@@hedge7743 I calculated that it added about 11% to the overall mass so it should reduce recoil 11%. It definitely helps. Also free floating the barrel costs nothing and glass bedding the receiver is very inexpensive. It will never be a great rifle but it can be above average (or at least above expectations)
On the butt, I use the foam about half full, then add about 1/4 pound of BB's, then add more foam. It expands a lot, so don't fill completely. I use fiberglass resin for the front. Then I duracoat the stock a different color. It might be a lot of work, but it's better than sitting around watching TV.
FamoWood Glaze Coat would not be my first choice of epoxy for stiffing a rifle stock forearm. Glaze Coat is temperature resistant only up to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. The rifle barrel can easily heat up over that temperature level especially with quick repeat firing. An epoxy with a much higher heat resistance rating (such as JB Weld) is a better choice.
After hearing about an idea, I can't remember where, I cut three tennis balls in half shoved them in the back and followed with expanding foam. It sounds and feels sturdy. I cut off 2 inches on the front stock, glass beaded the recoil lug and floated the barrel. I love it
Update: I bought a savage. 30 - 06. I used JB Weld plus lead weight in the upper portion of the stock. I used glaze coat in the butt plus I filled it with steel automotive tire weights. Glaze Coat sealed it up. Then, the remaining little bit I stuffed duct seal in. Bipod and scope included, total weight 11 pounds. It feels good and solid. I added foam for a cheek rest. Took it out shooting today. At 100 yards, I'm ok. I need a better target. Overall, I'm happy about the progress I've made. The recoil is not too bad. I'm 62. I do not do recoil at my age lol.
Did a similar thing to my Axis stock only used cheap Wal Mart fiber carbon arrow sectons cut just a tad longer than the fore end spaces & rammed em in tight. Then buried em in J.B. weld. Also sanded out the bbl channel & rounded off the sharp top edges. TOTAL free float. on the bottom can also fill the cavity w arrow shaft lengths & bury them in the J.B. weld. Stays light but RIGID. Hunting carry..... Your clear epoxy stuff will crack/shatter easily in the cold. Prob wont matter on the rear end but WILL matter on the fore end. I made tables w that stuff & its not that tough. If it gets really hot the cure rate is too fast adding to its fracture factor. Long slow just barely warm cure is best/strongest. Behr Brand is the best. Cheaper brands tend to decompose after a year or 2.
Try using a disposable piping bag (bakers use them for decorating cakes), for the butt stock....you can use it as a sleeve and pour your epoxy into the bag.....it is also removable once it has hardened, that way you can play around with different weights.....insert metal os sand for heft, and styrofoam or sponge to keep it light.....the latter will tend to float while it is setting up, just hold it in place with a dowel, and trim off when it hardens.
JB epoxy steel putty or JB weld 2 part epoxy is what I use. You can also use steel shot covered in a layer of epoxy if you want more weight. In the butt Stock you can use styrofoam and epoxy for better noise reduction.
Great ideas! To add a bit of weight for balance and recoil reduction, I glued a wheel weight on each side of the stock near the butt pad. It was free for me and effective! Keep shooting!
The very best way to 'stiffen up' the stock of a Savage access is to replace it with something like a BOYD'S stock. But I like the process you use on the TC stock, and others too, I imagine. I need to stiffen the forestock on my 783 Remington,..and am thinking that a couple of carbon fibre arrow shafts should work well with epoxy too.
@@anadu13 I still haven't done anything with my Remington 783, and I think you're correct in getting a Boyds stock for it. Now if I can only get a Boyds sales rep. to talk to me about th9is..... ( Lord knows I've tried )
The Hogue overmolded stock worked well for me with the pillar bedding. Some people hate them, but mine is free floated and stiff as I need it. Keep shooting!
Like your setup! I own the same rifle with a different scope. I like your cheek piece. Are there support ribs side to side in the butt of the stock that a person might hit when drilling? Didn’t want to hit a rib when drilling. Very good film with good information that will definitely help everyone refine their rifles. My rifle definitely needs a cheek piece! Thanks!
On my Savage stock (2004) I used a router to create a channel in the foreend, then laid in a section of a 12 gauge aluminum cleaning rod and then glass bedded full length. Shrunk my groups from 1 1/4 to 3/4 inch, added weight to the front end and stiffened the stock up a lot.
Glaze coat doesn’t get hard like a true epoxy. This is why you don’t see scratches and scuffs on bar tops. It stays soft enough to continuously level and fill in imperfections throughout its life. This product may feel hard to the human touch but I assure you that it’s not in comparison to other epoxy and adhesive products. Folks, spend $100 for your local gunsmith to properly bed your rifle if you can’t do it yourself.
I heard some filled the butt stock with silicone, and some others added some lead into the silicone to gain some weight. But I couldn´t find comments that say that it did great or so.
Rolled 20 or so 170gr cast lead in a double ziplock bag then taped to make it cylindrical-ish stuffed as far fowared in the butt-stock of a TC Compass then stuffed close cell foam in behind made for felt recoil and was no mess.. fishing weights would work well to I think
i have a axis with a black stock & one with the camo one seams to be a stiffer stock then the black one I even switched it at range I saw a group improvement (with camo), side by side they look the same! i was left scratching my head! i tried glue & ice pop sticks & i ended up buying wooden stocks one for axis & savage model 11 the axis seams a lot better with the wood! the savage 11 is a 300 wsm it got a mean kick! not like a moss-burg 500 with slugs but it kicks! muzzle brake is what next! or grab a other firearm i have! when i got my firearms I was doing rifle testing & gunsmith stuff! both around the same time! I also hunt deer & elk & even alaska animals was on my mind! i think the 300 was a hunting rifle! not part of any testing i did! the guy for magazine died suddenly & its was a mess! estate and family stuff I did end up with stuff I had bought & reports were not used so it ends way i did not expect! the gunsmith i helped went blind suddenly too sugar! he passed on too!
I had people die in my family odd ways one was sugar blind, or quickly from cancer, my daughter's aunt in less then a month! I did advice the magazine guys family the attorney handled estate, with my family my brother attorney did estate stuff! it easy if you know and trust the people! my brother attorney daughter went to school with me we still talk today! i was adopted she was adopted too!
i got a bigger pack of glaze coat first line on bottle = 2 stocks front of stock i had one filled i filling them full, heavy kicker, i grab axis and used rest! thank you i used a chunk of furring strip and packing plastic stuff wraped around the board, in the but ends to semi balance it!
I bought a Win XPR 300 WSM that was on sale for $275 one time. In the plastic stock it does kick like a mule. I put it in a boyds stock and threaded the barrel for a muzzle brake. I loaded some 178gr ELDX bullets and it shoots outstanding. Completely different rifle.
Robert Smith so true. After owning an axis I’d never suggest anyone buy one unless you’re ready to dump more than the cost of the gun to make it worth a damn if you shoot regularly.
Hey everybody! I just did this exact process to a composite stock that came on a Weatherby Vanguard in 7mm Rem Mag. The stock actually bent due to recoil (I could see the white marks on the green plastic from stretching) After using the two part epoxy, the stock is as stiff as a board and has a little more weight. This is comforting with the magnum recoil. I would recommend this method on any of the newer composite stocks in the budget rifle category. Cost was $27. One box could easily do 10 stocks. Thanks for the advice and Merry Christmas!
Man who needs the video with all the experts in the comments section lol.
I use a similar method that has been mentioned by using cheap carbon fiber arrows cut to the correct length but instead of using some kind of hardened epoxy or anything like that I use urethane caulking. Once cured it holds those carbon fiber arrow shafts in place solidly and because it has a semi-rubbery consistency it also acts as a vibration dampener as well as mitigating the hollow sound of the plain factory stock.
That sounds interesting. I might try that a future build. Thanks!
Sorry to comment two years later, but I was wondering how you install the arrows? Do you just dremel out two channels then place them in and caulk over them? I have a TC Compass I want to harden up a bit.
I put sand in a heavy duty zip lock bag and stuffed it in the hollow end of my stock.
Cheap, easy, and can be removed or added to if needed
Man, I was wondering if that would work! Thanks for putting this out there!
@@hedge7743 I calculated that it added about 11% to the overall mass so it should reduce recoil 11%.
It definitely helps.
Also free floating the barrel costs nothing and glass bedding the receiver is very inexpensive.
It will never be a great rifle but it can be above average (or at least above expectations)
On the butt, I use the foam about half full, then add about 1/4 pound of BB's, then add more foam. It expands a lot, so don't fill completely. I use fiberglass resin for the front. Then I duracoat the stock a different color. It might be a lot of work, but it's better than sitting around watching TV.
What kind of foam do you use?
Amen to that.
Thank you sir …very informative
FamoWood Glaze Coat would not be my first choice of epoxy for stiffing a rifle stock forearm. Glaze Coat is temperature resistant only up to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. The rifle barrel can easily heat up over that temperature level especially with quick repeat firing. An epoxy with a much higher heat resistance rating (such as JB Weld) is a better choice.
After hearing about an idea, I can't remember where, I cut three tennis balls in half shoved them in the back and followed with expanding foam. It sounds and feels sturdy. I cut off 2 inches on the front stock, glass beaded the recoil lug and floated the barrel. I love it
Update: I bought a savage. 30 - 06. I used JB Weld plus lead weight in the upper portion of the stock.
I used glaze coat in the butt plus I filled it with steel automotive tire weights.
Glaze Coat sealed it up.
Then, the remaining little bit I stuffed duct seal in.
Bipod and scope included, total weight 11 pounds.
It feels good and solid. I added foam for a cheek rest.
Took it out shooting today.
At 100 yards, I'm ok.
I need a better target.
Overall, I'm happy about the progress I've made.
The recoil is not too bad.
I'm 62. I do not do recoil at my age lol.
Did a similar thing to my Axis stock only used cheap Wal Mart fiber carbon arrow sectons cut just a tad longer than the fore end spaces & rammed em in tight. Then buried em in J.B. weld. Also sanded out the bbl channel & rounded off the sharp top edges. TOTAL free float. on the bottom can also fill the cavity w arrow shaft lengths & bury them in the J.B. weld. Stays light but RIGID. Hunting carry..... Your clear epoxy stuff will crack/shatter easily in the cold. Prob wont matter on the rear end but WILL matter on the fore end. I made tables w that stuff & its not that tough. If it gets really hot the cure rate is too fast adding to its fracture factor. Long slow just barely warm cure is best/strongest. Behr Brand is the best. Cheaper brands tend to decompose after a year or 2.
Clear silicone in the butt stock, dampens vibrations and kills the hollow sound
How much waight dose it add? i have a savage axsis scout, and the scope and muzzle break make it vary front heavy need to add weight to the but stock
Try using a disposable piping bag (bakers use them for decorating cakes), for the butt stock....you can use it as a sleeve and pour your epoxy into the bag.....it is also removable once it has hardened, that way you can play around with different weights.....insert metal os sand for heft, and styrofoam or sponge to keep it light.....the latter will tend to float while it is setting up, just hold it in place with a dowel, and trim off when it hardens.
JB epoxy steel putty or JB weld 2 part epoxy is what I use. You can also use steel shot covered in a layer of epoxy if you want more weight.
In the butt Stock you can use styrofoam and epoxy for better noise reduction.
Great ideas! To add a bit of weight for balance and recoil reduction, I glued a wheel weight on each side of the stock near the butt pad. It was free for me and effective! Keep shooting!
The very best way to 'stiffen up' the stock of a Savage access is to replace it with something like a BOYD'S stock.
But I like the process you use on the TC stock, and others too, I imagine. I need to stiffen the forestock on my 783 Remington,..and am thinking that a couple of carbon fibre arrow shafts
should work well with epoxy too.
I put a Boyd's on mine and it was night and day difference.
@@anadu13 I still haven't done anything with my Remington 783, and I think you're correct in getting a Boyds stock for it. Now if I can only get a Boyds sales rep. to talk to me about th9is..... ( Lord knows I've tried )
Hate those big bulky wood stocks Boyd makes
@@jackson4861what stocks do you like for the axis then ?
The Hogue overmolded stock worked well for me with the pillar bedding. Some people hate them, but mine is free floated and stiff as I need it. Keep shooting!
Like your setup! I own the same rifle with a different scope. I like your cheek piece. Are there support ribs side to side in the butt of the stock that a person might hit when drilling? Didn’t want to hit a rib when drilling. Very good film with good information that will definitely help everyone refine their rifles. My rifle definitely needs a cheek piece! Thanks!
Thanks my friend good tip.
Have u done needing and stiffening on a remington 770 long action 308
I bought this glaze and and mixed it 50/50 by volume and after a week it had never cured. What a mess.
Cool!
Does adding Glaze to the fore grip, help stiffen the parts that secures the barrel and receiver?
On my Savage stock (2004) I used a router to create a channel in the foreend, then laid in a section of a 12 gauge aluminum cleaning rod and then glass bedded full length. Shrunk my groups from 1 1/4 to 3/4 inch, added weight to the front end and stiffened the stock up a lot.
Thanks for the info. Nice.
How much weight does this add over all
Note to self : When making videos, silence your phone.
Glaze coat doesn’t get hard like a true epoxy. This is why you don’t see scratches and scuffs on bar tops. It stays soft enough to continuously level and fill in imperfections throughout its life. This product may feel hard to the human touch but I assure you that it’s not in comparison to other epoxy and adhesive products.
Folks, spend $100 for your local gunsmith to properly bed your rifle if you can’t do it yourself.
Can you HydroDip a TC compass stock?
Upgrade to a better stock, those cheap ones are used to keep the initial price down.
I heard some filled the butt stock with silicone, and some others added some lead into the silicone to gain some weight.
But I couldn´t find comments that say that it did great or so.
Rolled 20 or so 170gr cast lead in a double ziplock bag then taped to make it cylindrical-ish stuffed as far fowared in the butt-stock of a TC Compass then stuffed close cell foam in behind made for felt recoil and was no mess.. fishing weights would work well to I think
I use BB's and foam. Works pretty good. It's still not as good as a B&C stock, but it's cheap.
Silicone works well also and it absorbs recoil energy 😁
Silicone is meant to be flexible. The point of this is to make the stock rigid.
i have a axis with a black stock & one with the camo one seams to be a stiffer stock then the black one I even switched it at range I saw a group improvement (with camo), side by side they look the same! i was left scratching my head! i tried glue & ice pop sticks & i ended up buying wooden stocks one for axis & savage model 11 the axis seams a lot better with the wood! the savage 11 is a 300 wsm it got a mean kick! not like a moss-burg 500 with slugs but it kicks! muzzle brake is what next! or grab a other firearm i have! when i got my firearms I was doing rifle testing & gunsmith stuff! both around the same time! I also hunt deer & elk & even alaska animals was on my mind! i think the 300 was a hunting rifle! not part of any testing i did! the guy for magazine died suddenly & its was a mess! estate and family stuff I did end up with stuff I had bought & reports were not used so it ends way i did not expect! the gunsmith i helped went blind suddenly too sugar! he passed on too!
I had people die in my family odd ways one was sugar blind, or quickly from cancer, my daughter's aunt in less then a month! I did advice the magazine guys family the attorney handled estate, with my family my brother attorney did estate stuff! it easy if you know and trust the people! my brother attorney daughter went to school with me we still talk today! i was adopted she was adopted too!
i got a bigger pack of glaze coat first line on bottle = 2 stocks front of stock i had one filled i filling them full, heavy kicker, i grab axis and used rest! thank you i used a chunk of furring strip and packing plastic stuff wraped around the board, in the but ends to semi balance it!
I bought a Win XPR 300 WSM that was on sale for $275 one time. In the plastic stock it does kick like a mule. I put it in a boyds stock and threaded the barrel for a muzzle brake. I loaded some 178gr ELDX bullets and it shoots outstanding. Completely different rifle.
Silence thy phone while making content...great info. Thank you!
Savage axis is one of the shittiest stocks ever made even after bedding it !
Most of my Axis 2's I put into boyds stocks. Bed them and they shoot sub moa.
Robert Smith so true. After owning an axis I’d never suggest anyone buy one unless you’re ready to dump more than the cost of the gun to make it worth a damn if you shoot regularly.
@@chevyon37s Yes, you about have to rebuild it , but I now have mine shooting decent
You lost me when you started talking about spray foam