I use the 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits to get the gunk off. It might take 3 or more sessions of this until the rag you are cleaning up with come out without gunk. I used to think that it takes some number of blo coatings. After quite a few stocks, I found that the wood will tell you when it is enough. What you will notice is that there will be parts of the stock that is not absorbing after a day or so. Then I do a couple of light coatings and it is done for now. Use you fingers and hands to apply the blo, the heat and pressure will get it down into the grain. Also, It’s good to remember the old saying: Once a day for a week Once a week for a month Once a month for a year Every year.
cool video and good information. thanks for the content. with one dispute: when maintained properly a linseed oil finish protects wood infinitely better than your typical poly finish. i’ve done a ton of testing or “experimenting” with it. i also started using raw linseed oil. i think the one i bought was made by linsheen, to be specific. i originally gave it a try upon learning that it is without the majority of additional crud. lead being one.. and it doesn’t smell nearly as strong. the only downside i have found is that it takes nearly twice as long to “dry.” just my $0.02! have a good day, brother!
I've finished several Mosin-Nagants with BLO, even though the original Russian/Soviet finish appeared to be some mixture of motor oil, steppe mud, vodka, and Nazi blood! 😂 Seriously - some war surplus stocks were so filthy and gunky i think whatever soldier was issued them was posted to the bottom of an oil well and then given latrine duty every day. I recently refinished a Savage 99c made in 1969 where the original shiny varnish finish was chipping and flaking off. Stripped and refinished with BLO. It looks beautiful now, even if i do say so myself!
@@FlyingKSports the old finish had gone to shit on mine. Same with the metal. My grandfather only got it for 20$ and they’re worth 75$ nowadays so wouldn’t really hurt to alter it.
@@FlyingKSports it actually is in fact boiled but it is done so in a vacuum chamber and heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit this way they avoid the flashpoint. After so they add siccatives to help with drying then they refine it a huge number of times. I have a video explaining the process 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing! On a side note, I noticed the silhouette of a bodybuilder doing a twisting rear double bicep pose on John Henry’s tee and immediately knew it was Arnold. The front of John Henry’s tee confirmed it! 💪🏼
I love taking the polyurethane varnish off reproduction Civil war muskets, staining them the proper color and coating them down with multiple coatings of Boiled linseed oil. They come out looking like a real period rifled musket.
@@FlyingKSports finish two stocks next to each other at the same time. Tell me that same sentence when your finished. You can easily tell when a WW1/WW2 Veteran had a rifle and took care of it compared to a civilian owner or someone that collects rifles improperly for historical purposes. BLO will leave a semi-Gloss like shine. RLO does not have this semi gloss like effect.
Does applying the boiled linseed oil on top of the original finish do anything? I was told I have to strip the original finish off first. This is regarding my 112 year old Swedish Mauser
Is there any kind of a wood wax....I have an m1a and my wood stock looks excessively dry in a few places...I want to moisturize it....but I don't want my wood stock To be Shiney or glossy
How long did it take for it to “cure”? I read that if you apply without waiting for the first application to “cure” you’ll go no where fast and that patience is key..
After you apply the blo I wait about 30 minutes then wipe off any excess. Let it sit overnight. The next day it should be ready to handle or you give it another coat.
On bare wood I would suggest at least 6 coats. It’s one of those things, the more the better. Give it time. Allow it to fully dry between coats. 24 hours between coats at the minimum.
I recently received my first M1 Garand from CMP. I ordered it with a grade ‘Expert’ which means it included a brand new walnut stock. It’s incredible. To your knowledge, does anyone ever checker their stocks for an M1? I’m doing some mild customization, like jeweling the bolt, and have thought that checkering in a couple of spots would enhance my grip on the rifle.
Nice video, and it's great to see a Lee-Enfield get the treatment (I regret not getting one cheaply when I had the chance...). Can I ask, does the boiled linseed oil you use have the additives that speed up the hardening process? I think some do not, but most do? Regards from Oz, DP
@@FlyingKSports Thanks for the prompt reply. I thought some boiled linseed oil products really did omit the chemical hardeners, but had been treated with hot air to make it dry faster (although probably not as fast as with the hardeners added). I'll look to see what's available to me locally as an alternatives to Tru-Oil. Regards, DP
My dad was a.proponent of thinning the first coat or two... I think the idea was it would penetrate deeper and have more product inside the wood. Thoughts?
I’ve never tried thinning the BLO. I have warmed it to get it a little thinner and even warmed the wood. Never had any trouble with oil getting into wood only the other way around.
I use the 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits to get the gunk off. It might take 3 or more sessions of this until the rag you are cleaning up with come out without gunk. I used to think that it takes some number of blo coatings. After quite a few stocks, I found that the wood will tell you when it is enough. What you will notice is that there will be parts of the stock that is not absorbing after a day or so. Then I do a couple of light coatings and it is done for now.
Use you fingers and hands to apply the blo, the heat and pressure will get it down into the grain. Also, It’s good to remember the old saying:
Once a day for a week
Once a week for a month
Once a month for a year
Every year.
That’s a good saying and good advice.
Should be once a year for the rest of your life.
cool video and good information. thanks for the content. with one dispute: when maintained properly a linseed oil finish protects wood infinitely better than your typical poly finish. i’ve done a ton of testing or “experimenting” with it.
i also started using raw linseed oil. i think the one i bought was made by linsheen, to be specific. i originally gave it a try upon learning that it is without the majority of additional crud. lead being one.. and it doesn’t smell nearly as strong. the only downside i have found is that it takes nearly twice as long to “dry.”
just my $0.02! have a good day, brother!
BLO and Balistol have kept maney an old wood n steel military rifle in fine shape.
I've finished several Mosin-Nagants with BLO, even though the original Russian/Soviet finish appeared to be some mixture of motor oil, steppe mud, vodka, and Nazi blood! 😂
Seriously - some war surplus stocks were so filthy and gunky i think whatever soldier was issued them was posted to the bottom of an oil well and then given latrine duty every day.
I recently refinished a Savage 99c made in 1969 where the original shiny varnish finish was chipping and flaking off. Stripped and refinished with BLO. It looks beautiful now, even if i do say so myself!
I’m a big fan of BLO. I got a Mosin-Nagant that actually looks good with a linseed oil finish.
Great video and even better advice. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much and thanks for watching.
I have a Hercules model 10 from the 1940-60. I sanded the stock smooth and applied boiled linseed oil.
I sanded a stock once years ago. I try to not sand old stocks at all if I can help it. New wood I’ll sand.
@@FlyingKSports the old finish had gone to shit on mine. Same with the metal. My grandfather only got it for 20$ and they’re worth 75$ nowadays so wouldn’t really hurt to alter it.
Personally, if you're looking for historical accuracy.... Cold-pressed linseed oil is the better option over boiled linseed oil.
“Boiled “ linseed oil is just linseed oil with driers added to it.
@@FlyingKSports it actually is in fact boiled but it is done so in a vacuum chamber and heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit this way they avoid the flashpoint. After so they add siccatives to help with drying then they refine it a huge number of times. I have a video explaining the process 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing!
On a side note, I noticed the silhouette of a bodybuilder doing a twisting rear double bicep pose on John Henry’s tee and immediately knew it was Arnold. The front of John Henry’s tee confirmed it! 💪🏼
You've got good eyes!
Great video I agree I have a 1914 SHTLE In need of a good coating but most likely full reversal of unsporterizing it
I've unsporterized a couple. Finding a replacement stock is the hard (expensive) part.
That is one beautiful .303 Lee enfield.
Thank you very much. I wish it was mine. Mine is all beat up and not suitable for videos.
@@FlyingKSports yeah sounds like mine....mine looks like it served at the somme lol
I love taking the polyurethane varnish off reproduction Civil war muskets, staining them the proper color and coating them down with multiple coatings of Boiled linseed oil. They come out looking like a real period rifled musket.
I’ve done that myself! Completely changes the look and feel of a gun.
@@FlyingKSports yes, it does.
Correction:
Boiled linseed oil was not recommended for any service rifle. It’s far to shiny.
Raw linseed oil was the only finished used on the 1903.
BLO is just linseed oil with dryers added. No more shiny than linseed oil alone
@@FlyingKSports finish two stocks next to each other at the same time.
Tell me that same sentence when your finished.
You can easily tell when a WW1/WW2 Veteran had a rifle and took care of it compared to a civilian owner or someone that collects rifles improperly for historical purposes.
BLO will leave a semi-Gloss like shine. RLO does not have this semi gloss like effect.
If you want it to look correct and protect the stock put the sling on correctly.
HAHA !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Agree 100%. New sub.
Thank you.
It’s a No4 Mk1🤦🏼♂️
Actually looks like a no4 mk1/2 or a mk2 😊. There’s a nut and bolt fix of the stock and not a tie plate.
Does applying the boiled linseed oil on top of the original finish do anything? I was told I have to strip the original finish off first. This is regarding my 112 year old Swedish Mauser
If it’s an oil finish I would just apply new oil over it. I’ve applied linseed oil onto my older Mausers and Enfield with no problems.
No 4 Mk1
It’s a No 4 Mk1 dated 1943, but the stock and butt plate look new.
Is there any kind of a wood wax....I have an m1a and my wood stock looks excessively dry in a few places...I want to moisturize it....but I don't want my wood stock To be Shiney or glossy
Boiled linseed oil leaves a nice full finish. An oil finish is what was used on most milsurp rifles. Avoid polyurethane and any synthetic finish.
How long did it take for it to “cure”? I read that if you apply without waiting for the first application to “cure” you’ll go no where fast and that patience is key..
After you apply the blo I wait about 30 minutes then wipe off any excess. Let it sit overnight. The next day it should be ready to handle or you give it another coat.
How many coats would you recommend on a fully stripped down stock? I'm guessing at least 5-6
On bare wood I would suggest at least 6 coats. It’s one of those things, the more the better. Give it time. Allow it to fully dry between coats. 24 hours between coats at the minimum.
I recently received my first M1 Garand from CMP. I ordered it with a grade ‘Expert’ which means it included a brand new walnut stock. It’s incredible. To your knowledge, does anyone ever checker their stocks for an M1? I’m doing some mild customization, like jeweling the bolt, and have thought that checkering in a couple of spots would enhance my grip on the rifle.
I've seen a couple of M1 stocks that were checkered. One was done done very well.
Nice video, and it's great to see a Lee-Enfield get the treatment (I regret not getting one cheaply when I had the chance...). Can I ask, does the boiled linseed oil you use have the additives that speed up the hardening process? I think some do not, but most do? Regards from Oz, DP
The term 'boiled' is misleading. Boiled Linseed Oil is linseed oil with chemical driers added. Still my favorite finish on a surplus rifle.
@@FlyingKSports Thanks for the prompt reply. I thought some boiled linseed oil products really did omit the chemical hardeners, but had been treated with hot air to make it dry faster (although probably not as fast as with the hardeners added). I'll look to see what's available to me locally as an alternatives to Tru-Oil. Regards, DP
Did you ever look at antique firearms. They used hand rubbed linseed oil to preserve the wood.
My dad was a.proponent of thinning the first coat or two... I think the idea was it would penetrate deeper and have more product inside the wood. Thoughts?
I’ve never tried thinning the BLO. I have warmed it to get it a little thinner and even warmed the wood. Never had any trouble with oil getting into wood only the other way around.
Whats that's butter 🧈 lookin stuff the kid had when he put the gun back together?? Some kind of wax?
Bees wax. Put that on the wood screws.
@@FlyingKSportsThanks for replying? Why do you do that?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 Keeps the screws from getting rusted into the wood. Use the bees wax because its not oily and wont soak into the wood
@@FlyingKSports That makes sense. Thanks again. I love those old military rifles too. This is one of my favorites
Great video! Concise and very helpful. One question though- exactly what brand of BLO did you use here?
I just bought what they had at Home Depot.
should boiled linseed oil be placed so closely to a pilot light?
Boiled linseed oil soaked rags can spontaneously combust. That’s more dangerous than an open flame.
For a new unstained stock will this be all you need as well or would I need to stain it first?
You can go either way. Boiled linseed oil will give walnut a nice light brown color. If you want something dark then stain before you oil.
What bluing solution did you use?
Art’s Belgian Blue.
@@FlyingKSportssweet thanks
How often do you do this?
I try to re oil all my mil surp rifles once a year.
A lot of haters in this comment section, it looks great to me!
Thanks. Looks good to me too.
How does boiled linseed compare to raw linseed oil?
Raw linseed oil will never dry.
@@FlyingKSports then how do people use RLO on their stocks?
@@FlyingKSports if you could elaborate a little more, that would be awesome. Are you saying “never” or that it just takes a long while?
@@BigAl1344 raw linseed oil would require you to add something like japan dryer. Boiled linseed oil has driers added to it
bettter yet - use danish oil
Most old military surplus rifle were dipped in linseed oil when they were new. I try to keep the finish close to original.
But rifles of today come with furniture 😂
…Ok.
Bloke what about flaxseed oil 🛢 yank
Boiled linseed oil IS flaxseed oil. We are just two countries separated by a common language.
@@FlyingKSports bloke chill bucko
@@comodice905 well, you say lift. We say elevator. We pop the hood on our car, you raise the bonnet on your automobile. We are just different.
@Flying K Sports bloke u naddsdizzy...err...wha....pues Como que en El Dia en que LA conoci ist dein Auf Das licht is bucko
Do you apply the oil to the inside (side facing the receiver and barrel) of the stock or just outside ?
Yes. You want to apply the oil to all surfaces of the stock.
Do you not seal it with paste finishing wax?
I’ve never waxed a stock.