Prius Brake Bleed no Scantool
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2020
- Only a few hand tools needed for this procedure.
Make sure car is off but 12v battery connected.
A follow up video reiterates the same steps with a bit more detail here
• Prius Brake Bleed No S...
Pedal depressor tool link ($30)
Alternatively a pole or carpentry clamp with jaws reversed can be used to depress the brake pedal.
This procedure shown once again in the second half of this video
• 05 Prius Rear Drums an...
www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE393... - บันเทิง
This video was so much better than the other videos, and only took a few minutes and worked great. Thank you!
I replaced a front brake hose and used this method and it worked absolutely great! Thank you so much Mr. Electric
Thank you. Instead of paying 25-75$ for that brake tool, I used a caulking gun and 18" clamp. You can use a long rod or stick that fits in the gun. Adjust the chair and press the brake.
Thank you for this video for such simple and effective way to bleed the brake lines. It helped a lot.
As I noticed, I just used the carpenter's clamp to depress the pedal. The handle on the clamp should be turned around 180 degrees and it works very well. Good luck to all DIY enthusiasts!
Nice tip!!
Not only a great video, but you kindly take your own time out to respond to all questions asked and for that, it is very much appreciated.🙏
Your method worked perfectly in the ES300h 2018. It is much easier and faster than the normal method with non hybrid vehicles.
Thank you for the demonstration, now I know and less nervous about working on my prius now .
This is awesome 👌 !!! I was bleeding the car with the car running, it went nowhere !!! Thank you for this!!!
Awesome. Using this method I was able to rebuild and then bleed a rear caliper that I pulled the piston from after the dust boot came out doing a brake replace.
This method was crazy easy and the brakes work perfect.
No lights on the dash of my Prius either.
🤘
Worked perfectly. Just change rear cylinders 2009 gen 2. THANK YOU!
Definitely works. I noticed that the pump/accumulator wasn't running the whole time like in the video. Still worked out fine.
Thank you !!. I used to bleed brake oil using this method. My car is TOYOTA Corolla AXIO (JDM) 2017
Nice!
great video - I did this today and it worked great on all 4 corners. I was just bleeding my old fluid out, no module issues, etc. I went thru 3 pints of toyota dot3 on my 08 prius, i wanted to make sure all of the old fluid was bled out.....I do not know if it matters or not, but I had the key fob in my pocket but kept the car completely turned off.
definitivamente funciona al 100% y dice q el secreto es abrir la purga primero y después pisar el pedal del freno lo acabo de hacer y me funciono perfectamente saludos
Brilliant method! If you just need to replace the fluid, I'd guess this is just as good as doing it the 'official' way...
Went to the conventional method using a scan tool and got the brake pedal back. Everything good now. Thanks
Good!
What scan tool did you use?
Wow. This is sooooo much of a time saver and simplifies this process on the Prius. If I followed your demo correctly, this is my written summary of the process you demonstrated as I understand it:
1. Cycle Engine on then turn off. 2. Key near/in vehicle. 3. Bleed bottle attached. 4. Open bleed valve.
5. Depress and hold down brake pedal.
6. ABS Pump should activate, bleeding brakes. 7. Close bleed valve (ABS Pump stops). 8. Top off reservoir.
Thank you for this. What is the sequence for bleeding? Passenger rear first?
@@IlyaBourim This is not my video, just my write up above. I would do the farthest wheel cylinder from the master cylinder first which would be the passenger rear. Work back toward the master cylinder until each one shows clean fluid.
@@paulcrescenti5581 Start from the farthest to nearest last, distance sequence from ABS actuator pump are recommended!
Wow. Thank you so much on this process.
Thank you for posting this video. It is elegantly simple and easy and I plan on trying this out after we get rid of all these hurricanes. Looking forward to seeing you bleed the ABS actuator, hopefully. I haven't done mine yet but I'm sure my day is coming. I'm just using the Frontier most of the time to delay that day. I've come to the conclusion that it is something rubber that's deteriorated. The extended run time is the only issue and it works great otherwise. It's a shame there aren't any shops that rebuild these actuators that I could send mine to and have them repair and reseal it and return it back to me. Maybe some day....
I was thinking u could just use this method to bleed the abs actuator as well, no? yeah it would be great if they had a rebuild kit for the actuator!
MamaHuhuDIY judging by the number of wires going to and from the device, it would likely require bench testing equipment likely costing thousands of dollars. The actuator communicates with the speed sensors on each wheel, the brake pedal, the anti-skid module, and possibly others I don’t know about yet. I’m assuming the device is connected to some sort of simulator and filled with brake fluid in order to put it through its paces and make sure the rebuild was successful. Dorman is one company that services these modules, but on rockauto.com, they are always out of stock. The dealership wants around $1175 new, and that’s with a discount of almost $400. The new part and labor is around $3300. I would rather not use a salvage unit because of the likelihood of a failure soon after going thru all that crap installing the used part. I’m seriously thinking about just getting rid of the damn thing and I’ve never talked like this before, but.....
MamaHuhuDIY I seriously doubt that the actuator could be bled like this video when it’s first installed. The individual sections have to be filled with brake fluid using techstream or a good unit like Autel makes with bidirectional capabilities. I’m still waiting for a video to come out that illustrates the procedure. I have a copy of techstream on a toshiba laptop running Windows XP with a mini VCI but would like to watch someone actually do the procedure before I try it. I don’t want to hit a snag and be compelled to have it towed to the dealership because I screwed up the bleed procedure. The closest dealer is about 35 miles from my house.
@@plumkey197 so what did you end up doing? i just changed my abs actuator and i'm curious on what i need to do to get it done correctly.
@@ilickspam I replaced the unit with a salvage unit from a salvage business I’ve used before. Removed the cowl and wipers for better access. Moved inverter to the front without disconnecting the cooling system. After installation, I left the brake line on top of actuator loose and refilled reservoir until that top fitting was free of air bubbles - then tightened. Saw this step on another video. Then put the inverter back and put everything back together. Never could get Techstream to complete bleed procedure, so I used the procedure on this video. That worked well enough to erase the codes and turn off the lights on the dashboard. It used plenty of brake fluid but worked very well. The salvage unit works well and the brakes are absolutely normal. I put new pads on the front prior to bleeding (pads were Akebono ceramic pads from Rockauto.com) and lubed the slide pins and contact points on the calipers. The shoes on the backs were worn maybe 1/3 down so but had a ton of dust, so I cleaned them up and lubed backing plates. Now it’s just a matter of how long this salvage unit will last. It runs a couple seconds at a time every few minutes - a fraction of the time that the old one was running. I never brought it to the dealer for bleeding, since the codes went away on their own and the system works perfect.
Awesome video! you make it look easy. I like how you prepped everything ready to go ahead of time. 99% of car videos aren't this good. I wish you had some Amazon links to that pedal depressor.
I just used the carpenter's clamp to depress the pedal. The handle on the clamp should be turned around 180 degrees and it works very well.
Just use a breaker bar or long extension for a pedal depressor against the front of the seat.
@@vladt6501 thanks for that tip. Very good DIY thinking!
I finally got the two dreaded codes after months of holding my breath and waiting for the ABS actuator to light up the dash. The pedal doesn't feel any different and the brakes still work well, but it's time to swap it out. I found one out of a 2007 Prius with 136,000 miles from a salvage parts company on EBay. The seller offered a 3 month warranty on the part, while most of the others only warranted the part for 30 days, and some sellers not at all, since it is an electrical part. It was a little under $300 with Fed Ex ground. The three month warranty will allow me to install it and make sure it works. The part is clean and the actual harness was cut, leaving the connector intact. They used plenty of bubble wrap and it arrived intact without visible damage. When I made contact with the owner, the actuator was still in the donor car and was not removed until I had paid. Hopefully the internals will not be able to dry out from exposure to the atmosphere for too long. I will start disassembly this weekend using your other video.
Keith Nettles It’s an ordeal but worthwhile. I love gen2 Prius and put some serious work into keeping a few O have owned running.
@@Mrelectric423 It would have been nice to find a used "improved" actuator that had been installed as a replacement, but the only ones that have been available have been the original part number . I just pray that this replacement holds up and doesn't fail for similar reasons for at least a year or two. If a major system like the inverter or transaxle fails, the widespread availability of fairly low-mileage units for a few hundred $$ is now a reality, as more gen 2's are wrecked or retired. The prices of these parts have dropped. This makes swapping them out a doable option in order to extend the life of these cars, since the car is "overbuilt" and the quality of the original parts is extraordinarily high (except for the ABS actuator LOL). I'm retired and like to do mechanical projects, and this gives me something worthwhile to do and is not a waste of time. The car will pay the effort back to you like any Toyota will do. The only other major work I have done is the catalytic converter and still has the original traction battery. The gen 2's are preferred by a growing number of people who have owned newer versions and it has been claimed that the gen 2's are more bulletproof than the newer versions. This information is from the forums online, such as Priuschat. Have a Merry Christmas and thanks once again for posting your Gen 2 repair videos.
@@plumkey197 do you remember the codes you got?
@@fr6775 give me a day or so to get that info for you.
This technique worked for me, however I had some screw ups along the way. For 2 days in a row, when I pressed the brake pedal to start the car, I noticed the brake pedal dropped a bit twice. On the 2nd day, the ABS light was lit on the dash, and the car would not start. I decided to replace the brake fluid to bleed all the bubbles out to see if this would fix my problem. So far this seems to have worked.
1) I used a vacuum pump kit to suck most of the fluid out of the reservoir, below the lower line. I then filled the reservoir up to the max line, and placed the cover loosely onto the reservoir.
2) I did this one tire at a time, using the factory jack. I started by removing the left rear tire (furthest from the ABS actuator).
3) With the car off, I broke free the bleeder nut, and retightened it. I attached a hose to the bleeder nut, letting the hose fall down into a bottle. I loosened the bleeder nut about 1/5th of a turn. Without starting the car and without opening the driver door, I inserted a 1 1/2 foot board between the driver seat and the brake pedal. This lit the rear tail lights and also activated the ABS actuator. It turned on for about 5 seconds, off for 3 seconds, and back on for 5 seconds, and repeated. I let it run for about 40 seconds, and then closed the bleeder nut. This flushed that brake line. I tightened the bleeder nut, and put the tire back on. I didn't notice this at the time, but I think this drained the 12v battery.
4) I started the car and turned it around in my garage. I removed the right rear tire, and attempted to perform this same procedure, but I did not hear the ABS actuator turn on. I suspect my old 12v battery did not have enough juice to turn on the ABS actuator. As a workaround, I used a vacuum pump to manually suck the brake fluid out of the caliper. I found I had to insert a board between the driver seat and the brake pedal, to allow the fluid to be sucked out of the caliper bleeder nut. Even though the ABS actuator was not being turned on, this allowed the fluid to be sucked out. I charged my dead battery overnight.
5) The next day, I connected the charged up battery. I noticed the ABS light was lit on the dash. It would not turn off.
6) These steps work for one wheel. Disconnect the battery and charge it up. Connect the battery to the car without turning the car on. Jack up the car, and remove the tire. Ensure the brake fluid is filled to the max line in the reservoir. Attach a hose from the bleeder nut into a jar. Loosen the bleeder nut 1/5th turn. With the car off, with the FOB nearby, insert a board between the driver seat and the brake pedal. This will turn the ABS actuator on, and will drain fluid into the jar. After about 20 seconds, tighten the bleeder nut. Remove the board that is pressing on the brake pedal. After doing this, check the voltage of the battery. On my car, it drained the battery to about 12 volts, so I started the car to charge the battery back up.
7) I then did the next tire. So if you have enough battery voltage, this technique works.
8) Clearing the OBD2 codes will not turn off the ABS light. Removing the battery leads will not reset the ABS light either. That being said, there is a way to reset the ABS light on a 2nd gen Prius. Find the OBD2 port under the dash below your right knee. When looking up at it you will find a connector with 2 rows of 8 pins each. Connect a jumper between pin 4 (CG pin) and pin 13 (TC pin) on the OBD2 connector. Starting at the top row reading from left to right, pin 4 would be the pin 4 pins away from the left on top row. On bottom row pin 13 would be 4 pins from the right on bottom row. Connect the two pins using a small paper clip, then start the car putting the car into ready mode. It will start blinking the ABS light on the dash and the touch screen display will not look normal. Press the brake pedal 8 times or more in 5 seconds after turning the car into ready mode. Turn off the car and remove jumper. The ABS light will not be on. This procedure only resets the light, not the underlying problem. If the original fault is not repaired the light will come on again. In my case I did a brake job on the car and the abs light came on because I moved the piston back in the caliper. The abs system detected a pressure difference between wheel cylinders setting the ABS light.
9) I think it may be time for me to buy a new AGM 12v battery.
Great write up, Thank you!
That work for you? New battery?
@@charleshorseman55I think simply replacing the brake fluid worked for me. I replaced the fluid without replacing the 12v battery. However, after replacing the brake fluid, I decided to replace the 12v battery to reduce the number of times I would need to jump start my Prius. Having a good working 12v battery would have made replacing the brake fluid easier, because I could have used the battery power to pump the fluid out. Without a good 12v battery, you can manually suck the brake fluid out with a vacuum pump.
I just loved it.. Thank you tech nice
This seems unbelievable easy, can't grasp the ScanTool method being any better...
Very true! I think this would be the best method with all 4 wheel bled while the pump is working. I saw the scan tool method with the 2 front wheel bled first using the old conventional method!
I am a fan of the accumulator braking system.
You should do every car repair video on TH-cam!
Great job man! I'm about to buy a prius with a bad abs accumulator for cheap. I think I can fix it after watching your video.
Noice! I love cheap broken Prius'
Pine hollow did a vid on this and putting in a replacement accumulator.
how did your repair go? I have a bad abs. I put in a salvage unit, but still have the same codes...as before. The unit I got I pulled from a wrecked car (same year as mine) that was in much better body condition (minus the wreck) and had a seemly untouched abs (all of the visual damage was on the right frontal side) but alas I have the same code.
@@lexpox329 try bleeding the brakes and resetting the code using a scanner or the “paper clip obd trick” what I put in quotes will be what you can search to find it pretty easily if u don’t know what I’m talking about
how did it go with this bleeding method?
Great video. Got all the info in 3mins...
Thanks.. wow. What great information.
I love your watch ''vintage electronic Casio'' from Japan of course as your mostly repaired cars 🤣
legit video and demo, thank u
Thank you for encouragement to improve the procedure by removing the pressure bleeder and just using abs pump.
@@Mrelectric423 and thank you for making these great videos to help people keep their prius cars working!
Great video, thanks for posting! But I have a specific question...I need to put a new front caliper on my Gen 2 2007 Prius. So of course the caliper will be completely empty of fluid when I go to bleed it. Will the method you show in this video still work if the caliper is completely empty? Or will it produce the ABS/VSC lights and codes? Thank you.
In my experience this method will work, no codes thrown.
Note: if the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir drops below the low level sensor it will stop pumping and throw an error code.
great method but I would still remove the two ABS MR relays to bleed the front ,back is ok with relays on. Techstream bleeding procedure asking for it ,must be a reason.
there's only two relays for back , the two in the front dont have relays
Thank you sir!!!
Amazing! Strait to the point!
Aloha Mr. Electric! I have a 2019 Camry LE Hybrid. Do you know if this same method will work on my car?
I just replaced my prius gen 2's abs. to bleed the abs, you're saying doing this would be enough: with the car off, open the bleeder nut, and then push on the brakes. and open and close the driver door to have the pump running again for the front two wheels to bleed. that's it? this sounds so fast! i'm excited and thank you so much for this information.
Is the car drivable now ?
How did bleeding go?
Thank you!!
Sorry for the silly question, but could I completely flush my entire brake fluid system using this method on a Gen 2 Prius, or is it just for a short bleed? If so, do I just leave the bottle on for a longer period of time and keep the reservoir topped off?
Yes just leave the bleeder open ,
bottle connected for a longer period of time to do a more complete flush. I wait until 1/4 of my bleeder bottle is full until moving to the next wheel for a flush.
Thank you....
Hey, why depress the pedal while the bleeder nut is open?
Wouldnt that suck air in from the brake line?
In a normal brake hydraulic system you would be correct. With the blended brake system in this video the abs actuator pumps fluid out continuously.
Hi. Are you sure that doing in this way the old fluid was bled out from ABS pomp ?? master cylinder, stroke simulator?
I have to change the brake fluid in the brake system and I do not want the remains of the old one anywhere?
thanks for your Answer
Your results may vary, This is just how i do it and it has worked for me. I have also done the. techstream bleeding process.
Is this what you do after you swap out the brake pump thing?
Hi there. Thanks for all your videos. I watched your other video "Prius ABS actuor replacement". So I was wondering if you can use this brake bleed method after your change your ABS actuor or you need a computer to bleed them?
Sorry for my english.
Thanks a lot
This method works
Hey @laud5929 did you bleed your brakes with this method after your abs actuator replacement? Did it work.
My ABS pump is not on for 2005 Prius ...there is no activity. Had it replaced at dealership year and a half two years ago. I believe I am disillusioned. Reason I'm watching your video is because the scan tool shipped to me is programed for the wrong region and is being shipped back to seller. Got the Prius securely on 4 jack stands and might have to end up turning everything on to force the motor to run to see if I get any activity back at the drums brakes
Does it work on Prius 2008? I tried it on rear wheels which are drum brake. When I opened blead valve and depress brake padle, a little brake fluid came out and no more out, so I closed bleed valve. The result is my rear break lost brake. I have no idea what is wrong with the steps I followed here.
Hi, Same car same year same issue. Can you update on what went wrong and how you fixed it?
just to follow up with my first question, the abs actuator will be replaced
Thank you for sharing. Could you please let us know the wheel sequence for bleeding the breaks? Start on the rear passenger? Thanks in advance.
It depends if you need to bleed all 4. If you only replaced parts on one corner just bleed that one area.
Brake flush? Start w rear passenger side?
Can I bleed the brakes with the prius in ready mode? Like, can i press the brake and it pumps the fluid with it turned on in ready mode?
My 12v battery is going bad and I cant press the brakes many times with the car off or it will quickly drain the 12v battery
No unfortunately that does not work. You could connect a 12v charger to make it work with a weak 12v batt.
Thank you for your video!!
I followed your instructions for "Prius Brake Bleed No Scan Tool" on my 2009 Prius after replacing the ABS pump.
On the rear wheels it worked as it is shown.
On the front the ABS pump does not come on. I do not have any pedal resistance and it goes to the floor. What should I do to get the front to bleed?
Try opening and closing the drivers side door to get front to bleed. The abs computer stops trying to prime the system after a few minutes. Also if fluid goes low in the reservoir it stops pumping until you refill and reset codes.
@@Mrelectric423 I guess my question has been answered. thank you, mr. electric!
just wondering. how much brake fluid did you end up going through after replacing the abs pump and through bleeding?
@@Mrelectric423does the front breaks need to be pumped multiple times before opening the bleeder valve? Or just follow what was done for the rear wheels?
@@hatalarious no pumping needed. I might make another video showing the process again
Great video. Does this work on Gen 3 (2010 - 2015) Prius, and Prius C?
Yes, I want to know if it works on a prius 3 (2013)
Quick question on the rear brakes, once you have one side done on the rear do you remove the depressor and complete the other rear side in the same manner? opening the value and then applying the depressor? and then move to the front brakes?
I keep the depressor in place while bleeding all 4 brakes.
Do you need to have the cap to the brake reservoir off when doing this? seems that would allow air to get in the system
Yes cap off is better to view fluid level and add fluid as needed. The risk of getting air in the system is from failing to refill the reservoir before it gets empty.
Can you elaborate on getting the key FOB near the car during this procedure. Bad idea?
I did not experiment with the fob. I know opening and closing the door makes it go into brakes ready and pumped up mode.
Did you teach auto shop at CCSF?
So much easier 👍
Buddy please an answer after bleeding the abs and stability control light went on and and Looks like abs is not working. 2012 prius 166k Miles before everything was good. Any video or tip of what it can be?
What codes do you have.? The abs units in Prius fail frequently. It is possible the abs unit failed while bleeding. Also it will throw codes if you open the bleeder with the car on and in ready mode. Check and clear abs codes next.
@@Mrelectric423 you are 100% right buddy. I won't do that with the car on next time. I did it in the night and thank God in the morning the car was okay again
Prius 2006 .I replaced the hub in the left wheel and after installing it and driving 200m, 3 lights appeared on the dashboard. can you help me on this?
Did you plug in the wheel speed sensor? Check the 4 wheel speeds with a scanner while driving
Can this be done with the vehicle with key in the ''on'' position?
It will throw codes and stop pumping in the on position.
Is the brake depressor tool necessary or can I have someone else press on the brakes?
The brake pedal has to be pushed down 1 to 2 inches. You could use a stick against the seat or have a person hold the pedal down. In my experience the pedal was held down the same amount consistently. I do not know what would happen if the pedal was not held consistently and moved up and down a bit.
Try the second person holding the pedal idea and let us know if it works.
Hi i have a question i seen ur video good but u not told abt the ignition on car off or without ignition on this method?
Ignition off.
Can you help me repairing the hybrid battery😔
Ive got a dumb "linear solenoid valve offset unlearned" code in my abs system. The car won't make it through calibration and jumps out in under a minute. Would flushing the brake system possibly help?
Im not sure. Worth a try. It probably needs a new abs unit.
How long do you let the pump run for? Like, how long does it take for it to bleed completely?
Maybe 30 seconds or so.
I’m sitting here bleeding for 10 minutes each oof 😂
Is this sufficient to do after replacing the ABS module? Or do you need the tech stream?
There is debate over that question. I am not sure myself.
Hey @Mr.Electric , I did the abs module/pump following your other video but my codes still on dashboard you think abs module I bought was bad also? And when bleeding breaks do you press pedal all the way down?
It will not let you bleed with codes. Have you checked and cleared codes?
@@Mrelectric423 so update , I went ahead and changed the abs module once again, thinking it was abs issue, but codes didn’t clear .
So I went ahead and bled the brakes manually, the first time with first part the break pedal would go a little too low and can feel car wasn’t breaking until pedal was deep.
today I switched to another abs module and still same codes and I bled brakes and the brake pedal is now little hard but it lags to break and when it breaks it only does it with left caliper, makes tire slide and the right side keeps spinning while pedal is being pressed completely.
@@victorortega6856 Are you able to clear codes and check codes. It is impossible to bleed with certain codes. For example it will shut off fluid flow to a line that was reading 0 pressure. Clearing codes allows you to bleed it (at least in my experience)
@@Mrelectric423 haven’t tried clearing codes . Let me try doing that, so after clearing codes I should be able to bleed it ?
@@victorortega6856 yes
would do you mean by codes. there are no codes on dash board right now. do not want any codes to pop up after bleeding because i would not know what to do to clear it.
If the brake fluid on reservoir goes beyond the low mark it sets a code
So what if you already have some warning lights on ? I’m sure bleeding it won’t make the lights go off right ?
Sometimes clearing codes then bleeding fixes an issue. It wont let you. bleed in this way with codes set.
Mr. Electric mine I forgot to bleed and it throws code abs vcs error. Can this bleeding process remove the error on dashboard? Please help
Have you bled it since? Whats it doing now a few days after your comment?
Does this method work for Prius gen 4; 2018 model? Thank ou.
Yes!
Do you have to remove the relays? I bled them without removing any relays and now the check hybrid system message came up
That can happen if the fluid in reservoir goes low or if the car is on.
will this method work for 3rd generation prius?. also can someone just press on pedal in car without the pedal depressor device? just push hard or lightly if plan to have a person help me?
Yes and yes
How is the abs pump going with the care off?
It has to keep pressure up to be ready for vehicle start and drive. If the car waited for you to start you would not have power breaks while you start the engine and drive away. It tries to maintain pressure while the car is off too. It double checks and adds pressure if needed when you open the door.
You didn’t say whether or not the car was on electrically or not. So I assume that you pressed the starter button twice without your foot on the break so that it wouldn’t turn the engine on. Am I correct?
no, car should be off meaning key off engine off, all screens should be off just note that 12v must be connected despite car being off. You may need to open drivers door if car is off so long it goes to into a mode where abs is not staying pressurized. My advice is to turn the car off right before bleeding.
@@Mrelectric423 copy thanks
Thanks
Hello. Would this same procedure work on a 2006 Lexus rx400h. Great video. Thanks😊
yes this will work on all toyota /lexus hybrids
@@MrTvsh2 No I am going off what other techs have told me
Do you think this would work for a 2006 Toyota highlander hybrid ?
Yes. All Toyota/ Lexus hybrids I believe
After getting the codes and warning lights for abs failure, I replaced the entire abs actuator and pump assembly. no more lights on dash and checked with a scanner, no codes. I followed the procedure you outlined in the video and bled all four brakes. However, I still do not have a brake pedal, goes to the floor. Can you advise please? I have a 2008 Toyota highlander hybrid.
Did you bleed the brakes?
Yes, started at the back right moved to bl, then fr then fl. Pedal went to the floor before bleeding and after bleeding. Fluid came out quickly with the pump on. Used procedure you outlined in the video
Do I need to bleed again?
@@chuckpop that is my guess
where you at located sir?
When bleeding the brakes do you need to disconnect the 12v and hybrid battery?
Felakuti Fela both batteries must be connected.
typically yes, but not on hybrids or cars with electric accumulator pumps. Voltage is necessary to both sense the brake pedal position and to pump the fluid to bleed the brakes. For this procedure to work correctly you must: Leave key in the OFF position, and not let the reservoir run dry.
I tried bleeding the rear caliper on a 2008 toyota camry hybrid i did a similar method where i had someone press the brake pedal down while i opened the bleeder valve although i did this multiple times and after a few times no more fluid was coming out of the bleeder and abs lights are on, any suggestions on how to remove the abs lights now?
The pedal should be held not pressed or moved. Use a scantool to clear codes. Running low on brake fluid will make the abs error light come on.
@@Mrelectric423 thanks for the reply g I cleared the codes this morning and it was straight
Do you know if this will work on my Camry hybrid?
I believe it will since they have the same type of brake system.
So just to make sure...when bleeding the Prius using this method the car is completely off and not in any mode? thanks for the great video
Yes the car is off. The car tries to have the abs system pressurized at all times. It won't work with brake codes set or 12v batt disconnected.
Does this only work with the Toyota hybrids? Why does it work tho, how come the ABS pump kicks in when the car is off?
The Abs pump is trying to maintain pressure in the system. It starts pumping when bleeder is opened and pressure drops. If the car is on it sets a code and stops pumping immediately.
Is that only on the hybrids? I vacuum bleed my older 2013 Venza with key on but engine off and didn't hear the ABS pump kick in.
@@daijoubu4529 Yes only hybrids (I think)
Will this work after changing master cylinder on 2010 Prius?
yes I believe so
If you replace the abs module pump, do you do the same procedure?
The last actuator pump I replaced I did not bleed the brakes and it worked fine. A viewer reported the same in comments. Proceed at your own risk!
@@Mrelectric423 wouldn't there be air in the system if the pump was replaced?
@@zorro324 I dont know how but it has worked for me. I would think air would be trapped yet it seems to work based on experience. I recommend trying t this way while being prepared to do scanner assisted bleed procedure if needed.
I have a precollsion code sayinv abs is failuy and asking to do a linears solenoid learn is bot working because of the pcs code. Any suppestion?
What codes do you have
@@Mrelectric423 c1345 and b2060 seems like b2060 is keeping the linear learning from completing. And b2060 wont go away becaise of abs error. Did everything i can brake bleed,zero dow, jump ports, tap ports 4 time in 8 sec,test mode signald check etc
@@mr.hundreddollarbill9333 The b2060 is an unusual code, I do not see other people reporting that code. Failure to relearn linear actuator after multiple attempts is usually a bad actuator. With the very odd b2060 it is possible you have a wiring issue not bad actuator. Do you think wires could have been damaged? Otherwise I would consider replacing the actuator.
Where do I get a pedal depressor? U made it look alot easier..
Rice Burner I added a link in the description
Worked for me…..so far
The key inside or outside the car? I kept in the cup holder while the car is off and abs went off 1 time only.
my brake pedal 2010 prius feels softer that normal. should i bleed it 🤔
Yeah no reason not to.
I always feel mush better pedal after brake fluid flush.
This needs to be done before removing the lines of the brake actuator and removing the unit?
Hedgehog The Sonic Bleed after work is complete
@@Mrelectric423 I mean since the fluid is under pressure in those line, removing them will cause the fluid to splash everywhere, so i think first the fluid needs to be removed from the system.
Hedgehog The Sonic
Battery disconnected during disassembly. Fluid just drips out. Battery connected again for bleeding.
Basically the car maintains pressure to be ready for you to drive. With the battery disconnected it doesn’t do anything.
@@Mrelectric423 I see, thank you very much for answering.
I got air in my brake system trying to bleed/flush my brakes after changing out a rear caliper. The brakes are now soft and I have four lights displayed on my dash - Brake light, ABS, traction control light and an exclamation point. Do you think this method will work to purge the air from my brake system?
Just some further info regarding my "air in the brakes" issue. It is a 2011 Camry hybrid. After changing out a rear caliper, I had a helper sit in the car and depress the brake pedal. Nothing came out at first when I opened the bleeder screw, but then a pump kicked on and sent several spurts of fluid into my jar - my helper said the pedal never went down even though he was pressing on it the whole time. It stayed in the same position. I'm afraid there is air in the ABS unit. Not sure though.
This definitely sounds like a candidate for the bleeding procedure shown in the video. You would need to clear codes before it will let you bleed the brakes.
@@Mrelectric423 what exactly do you mean by clear the codes? I've got no rear brakes on my Prius after attempting to redo the brake drum assembly and putting on a new wheel cylinder. Try as I may, no brake fluid will come out of the brake line. Got the same thing as this guy, ABS, VSC, exclamation point light, and parking brake lights all on.
@@scooter12e I mean use an advanced scantool to clear the abs code, the vsc code and any other codes. The car will refuse to pump brake fluid if codes are set but will pump fluid if they are cleared using a scantool (at least in my experience)
Does the prius has to be on? That wasnt mention in the video
he said car off at 1:02
Does this work after replacing the brake actuator?
Yes , I think so
Can you bleed this way after replacing ABS actuator ? Just watched your other video . Great job going to replace ABs actuator soon after watching your video
Yes you can
Do you have to bleed all wheels after replacing the actuator?
@@friedpickles342 I have tried no bleeding after actuator replacement too. Somehow it works. I have no explanation for how or why.
@@Mrelectric423 the official "bleeding" proceedure is probably just so the dealer can milk more labor from the customer.
@@Mrelectric423 is that not dangerous?
The lights of brake and sound apear, and I don’t know, why I can erase. The rear wheels, can’t bleed. 😢
you must clear the codes, it will not bled with codes set.
Why is no fluid going in the bottle?
I followed the instructions exactly and the bottle is completely empty
not sure
I tried your technique on my 2010 Toyota Prius hybrid, it worked on rear wheels but nothing on the front wheels. Do you know what the front wheels didn’t bleed ?
If an error code registers it will stop pumping.
No code but I couldn’t bleed the front caliper with pedal depressor.but the rear was bled perfectly.
What could be the problem.
@@abdelkrimnadar2493 If the error light comes on it will stop pumping. You would then clear codes and start again trying to bleed front.
Do I have to do on other side too or just driver side only. Thanks
Bleed all 4 wheels if that is your question.
Yes. Thank you