This video was so helpful in the successful removal of the impeller off the shaft. Ended up using the 1/4” grade 8 bolt to hit after heating with Map gas and using penetrating oil. Would love to have used oxy acetylene but didn’t have that unfortunately. Thanks so much!!!
Hi, We don't have much need for a snowblower in North Carolina, but I still find this one and all your videos informative, well done and .. entertaining. Please keep them coming.
I believe I replied on another video of yours about a seized auger/impeller. I picked up a old craftsman 8.5 - 26 that has a Sears engine. Owner said it hadn't been run in 2 years. Carb was really nasty and after a couple of deep cleanings I got it running only to find that the 4 blade impeller had taken a big hit with 2 blades bent and the whole auger - impeller assembly surging in and out. Removed and disassembled the whole second stage from the housing. Discovered that two of the 4 impeller blades were bent, causing the back of the impeller to touch/hit the back of the impeller housing. Both the impeller and augers were siezed on their shafts. I am retired and do no longer have all the cool tools but using a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and soaking the siezed areas for 24-36 hours and using a couple of 18" pipe wrenches, I was able to disassemble it all. Now everything is back together and moving smoothly. Now just waiting on my carb. Keep up the great videos.
Outstanding video on "How-to"!!! I love the various "real-life" examples that one could face when trying to perform a job such as this. And the tips and guidance on what to do if things go awry is invaluable. Again, super-awesome close-ups and explanations throughout this video. You are "THE CHANNEL" for small engine repairs, hands down!!!!
Excellent instructional video. I used a 1800W heat gun and PB Blaster magnetic lubricant. I soaked the pins and shaft for 15-20 minutes then heated the pins for about five minutes. Using a 1/4-inch punch tool, the pins came out easily. The shaft was more difficult but I managed to mushroom the end of the shaft with my 8-pound sledge hammer...had to order a new impeller shaft. I bought Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant and will coat the impeller shaft and auger shaft (no lube in middle where the transaxle housing is located...the "00" grease for the worm gear will protect it) to prevent rust seizure in the future. Thanks!
I wrestled with one of these on an older Murray snowblower for two days. I finally got it off without damaging anything using everything you used and a MAPP gas torch. Needless to say I now own a Victor oxy acetylene rig! The high heat makes all the difference! Butter all mating surfaces in anti seize and you'll never do this again. If only the factory used it!
I was just doing this the other day and got one pin out the other half out I tried to bore it out but it didn't work so now that I see you used the torch I'm gonna try that tonight in the garage. Great video dony. You gave me reassure that I can heat it up with warping the shaft. Thanks again
Great video Dony, that anti-seize paste really works wonders, I use it all the time now, learned that from your videos, lol. You always offer great tips. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
I have a very old Ariens snow blower that I had to take the drive shaft off to get to the wheel bearing but I couldn't get a punch to punch out the roll pin so used a Dremel (great tool around the shop!!!) chopped both end of the roll pin flush to the shaft and was able to remove the shaft. When it came down to remove the pin from the shaft I couldn't punch it out it was seized tight so I thought of using an air hammer with the pointed end and voila it went smooth as butter and was able to get the pin to move and then was able to remove it with a punch. I don't have a gas torch so an air hammer was the perfect choice and if some of you want to do this don't forget to wear PROTECTIVE EYE GLASSES OR FACE SHEILD!!!!
Hey Don it’s been awhile. Hope all is well. On the next one that is stubborn hold a candle on it after you heat it up. I had very good results freeing up rusted nuts, parts etc.
Good day Dony. My impeller housing is quite rusted after several years of use in sand and salt. I spray it with rust chech each year to minimize rust build up. Is it worthwhile to refinish and paint the inner auger housing? Will the throw distance be better if the interior of the impeller housing is smooth by sanding and painting it.
Talk about the assistant steering cables, I have one side that is loser that the other. I wonder if the cable can be adjusted. I look at both ends and cannot find any of tightening the cable. Can you suggest something?
Dony, GREAT video! I’m in the same boat with my “free-ninety-nine” MTD blower and feel more confident about heating the impeller shaft without worrying as much about reducing its strength… QUESTION: what brand punches are those?!? I like those and would like a set in my toolbox soon!!
Install the roll pins with anti seize to that helps from rust. They'll still be tight enough that they won't come out an if they do not harm will come to the machine
What I do when I heat something like that, I cool it or dip in water right after being heated. This give a thermic choc and break the rust. Then things could be taken apart like they are new.
Will I be able to get it hot enough with a household blow torch? Got the pins out but the shaft is frozen Soaked over night with on blaster will try again in morn But if not gonna need heat
Hey Dony i have a question i was hoping u could help me with. I have a stihl ms250 saw and i havent started it a while. I cranked it up and it would only run for a second then bog down and die. It did that about ten times. I started messing with the carb adjustments and now it wont come on at all. Can u give me an idea how they are set from the factory, or do u know of something else i should be doing? Spark plug looks good (it did have a lil oil on it but not much) and the gas looks ok. Any help u could give me would be great! Thank you.
A hydraulic press would be ideal if the snow blower blade could fit underneath press,I've worked for different companies who I've done that sort of work for but I'd never use a snow blower in my life because in Australia, it only snows where there's high altitude, about 150 kilometres (90 miles) away from where I live,we have a mountain range where is snows, it cold enough to breed Tasmanian devils on. Taryl (Tim) has a very good method of removing rusted & seized parts using the heat & quench method,note I started working in a workshop more like his. I have to find out why I've had to move onto from a lot of companies even the bigger ones,the smaller ones don't keep me & the larger ones it's as if they don't know where I've started. In 2009,I found a Hebbard whose my relation ,so I'm not sure if Don is another one of him,perhaps Taryl is,that one is a distant cousin through my parents sides (Jones). They are in the mining industry so where I started is not what they do , they don't think that I can work in that one,yet I can't go back to another one of them & repair power tools as most of them have closed down. In 2010,he told me I was better off looking for other work but I found out another form of him that's not into mining is only a lifestyle coach, what good are they ? I left one of them in 2006 (Amway AMO) as I wasn't making any money so I must get that's all another Hebbard is - a lifestyle coach or motivational speaker & Taryl may go as far as to say being a used car salesperson is their other work.
Smashing video and tips don :-D Those hard punches look ideal :-D Heat allows you to remove rusted exhaust pipe fittings on cars, it is the only thing that can break the rust, the metal needs to be cherry red, its a last resort but works :-D
+al b Wrong. The temperature of the oxy-acetylene torch could easily turn steel into melted cheese. +donyboy73 Also wrong. If you anneal the metal, it will indeed change the strength (properties) of the metal (alloy). The key is to not heat it past its recrystallization point (see: Iron-Carbon phase diagram).
Walter's Playground Wrong if you watch the video Donyboy does not heat up the parts to red hot. if you did that then yes you could affect the strength but not for what he is doing.
I abuse my England #3 vises the same way (i have 2) Great video don. Merry Christmas to you and the Family. It is that time of year now for us Canucks.
Hey Don, if you ever get an Ariens 10000 series (1960-61-1974) in your shop that needs the friction disk replaced. Please make a video. Their are tons of 10000 series still out their and they have one of the most complex gear boxes of all snowblowers to change a friction disk on. A video changing one will help a ton of people including me. Thanks
donyboy73 Yea I saw that one, unfortunately thats after they got smart and made changing the friction disk easier. Theirs about 15 steps involved with the 10000 series. Parts of the frame literally have to be dismantled. Theirs instructions on doing it if you know where to find them, but even with that, you have to have pretty good knowledge of snowblowers to change it. Well if you ever get a 10000 series in for a new friction disk, hopefully you can film it. Their unique machines. Thanks for the link anyway.
Yes, that video is for a post 1974 Ariens , not the older 10000 series. I too have 3 of these machines (2 1969's and a 1973 version) and would love to see a video on how to replace the friction disk as well on these old dinosaurs!
Hey Don try pb blaster it is way better then liquid wrench you can get it at Canadian tire and home depot. At the dealership we starting using it it really works.
Hey, Dony, another great video from You. Maybe someday in the near future You are considering making video about how You got into small engine business and started YT channel?
I made r]the mistake of buying a mtd snowblower that was used and had a small bend in the impeller . After I got it home I found out someone had welded the impeller to the shaft Ii I wanted to fix it I had to buy the whole thing .
Dony, I notice you are using "Liquid Wrench" penetrating fluid. Is that your favourite? I just bought some last year (probably after watching your videos! lol) and it seems to work well. Thanks, Brian
Great video Don as always. You forgot one thing, all the cursing and yelling when you’ve used Penetrating oil, roll pin punches, and a torch and the little buggers still won’t come out. HAHA!
Hi Dony Can you answer a fast question? th-cam.com/video/vSjgNoAZWjc/w-d-xo.html this little murray you show how to adjust the drive cable. I have the murry g2250030 22in 5hp, 6spd The drive belt looks nice but its kinda loose. The adjustment you show like mine is there but it a hook w/spring and tension bolt insidespring,even when pulled up to max level it dont effect belt tension. The tensioner for the drive has 1 spring underneath attached to a non adjustable pully.. HOW DO I TIGHTEN BELT?Or does the rotation of the tensioner force tension on the belt as it spins maybe? TY SIR!!!
This video was so helpful in the successful removal of the impeller off the shaft. Ended up using the 1/4” grade 8 bolt to hit after heating with Map gas and using penetrating oil. Would love to have used oxy acetylene but didn’t have that unfortunately. Thanks so much!!!
Hi, We don't have much need for a snowblower in North Carolina, but I still find this one and all your videos informative, well done and .. entertaining. Please keep them coming.
I believe I replied on another video of yours about a seized auger/impeller. I picked up a old craftsman 8.5 - 26 that has a Sears engine. Owner said it hadn't been run in 2 years. Carb was really nasty and after a couple of deep cleanings I got it running only to find that the 4 blade impeller had taken a big hit with 2 blades bent and the whole auger - impeller assembly surging in and out. Removed and disassembled the whole second stage from the housing. Discovered that two of the 4 impeller blades were bent, causing the back of the impeller to touch/hit the back of the impeller housing. Both the impeller and augers were siezed on their shafts. I am retired and do no longer have all the cool tools but using a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone and soaking the siezed areas for 24-36 hours and using a couple of 18" pipe wrenches, I was able to disassemble it all. Now everything is back together and moving smoothly. Now just waiting on my carb. Keep up the great videos.
Outstanding video on "How-to"!!! I love the various "real-life" examples that one could face when trying to perform a job such as this. And the tips and guidance on what to do if things go awry is invaluable. Again, super-awesome close-ups and explanations throughout this video. You are "THE CHANNEL" for small engine repairs, hands down!!!!
Excellent instructional video. I used a 1800W heat gun and PB Blaster magnetic lubricant. I soaked the pins and shaft for 15-20 minutes then heated the pins for about five minutes. Using a 1/4-inch punch tool, the pins came out easily. The shaft was more difficult but I managed to mushroom the end of the shaft with my 8-pound sledge hammer...had to order a new impeller shaft. I bought Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant and will coat the impeller shaft and auger shaft (no lube in middle where the transaxle housing is located...the "00" grease for the worm gear will protect it) to prevent rust seizure in the future. Thanks!
I wrestled with one of these on an older Murray snowblower for two days. I finally got it off without damaging anything using everything you used and a MAPP gas torch. Needless to say I now own a Victor oxy acetylene rig! The high heat makes all the difference! Butter all mating surfaces in anti seize and you'll never do this again. If only the factory used it!
I was just doing this the other day and got one pin out the other half out I tried to bore it out but it didn't work so now that I see you used the torch I'm gonna try that tonight in the garage. Great video dony. You gave me reassure that I can heat it up with warping the shaft. Thanks again
Great video Dony, that anti-seize paste really works wonders, I use it all the time now, learned that from your videos, lol. You always offer great tips. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
Good tips in that video. You certainly earned your money on that job. It just goes to show you, the right tools for the job....always
Exactly what I needed as I'm fighting with a seized impeller - THANKS !!!
OMG, you make every repair looks so easy. Great instruction and I especially appreciate your attention to safety precautions.
I have a very old Ariens snow blower that I had to take the drive shaft off to get to the wheel bearing but I couldn't get a punch to punch out the roll pin so used a Dremel (great tool around the shop!!!) chopped both end of the roll pin flush to the shaft and was able to remove the shaft. When it came down to remove the pin from the shaft I couldn't punch it out it was seized tight so I thought of using an air hammer with the pointed end and voila it went smooth as butter and was able to get the pin to move and then was able to remove it with a punch. I don't have a gas torch so an air hammer was the perfect choice and if some of you want to do this don't forget to wear PROTECTIVE EYE GLASSES OR FACE SHEILD!!!!
Nice work! When a vise and a good torch are worth their weight in gold.
Hey Don it’s been awhile. Hope all is well. On the next one that is stubborn hold a candle on it after you heat it up. I had very good results freeing up rusted nuts, parts etc.
Hello ponyboy how did you get that shaft out of unit? Mine is stuck in bearing. I cant get it free
Great tutorial - longer roll punches are now on the x-mas wish list :-)
Good day Dony. My impeller housing is quite rusted after several years of use in sand and salt. I spray it with rust chech each year to minimize rust build up. Is it worthwhile to refinish and paint the inner auger housing? Will the throw distance be better if the interior of the impeller housing is smooth by sanding and painting it.
Talk about the assistant steering cables, I have one side that is loser that the other. I wonder if the cable can be adjusted. I look at both ends and cannot find any of tightening the cable. Can you suggest something?
Dony, GREAT video! I’m in the same boat with my “free-ninety-nine” MTD blower and feel more confident about heating the impeller shaft without worrying as much about reducing its strength…
QUESTION: what brand punches are those?!? I like those and would like a set in my toolbox soon!!
Great job explaining all the steps in ALL of your videos!
Any chance of a link to that larger/wider punch tool? Nice video, as usual.
Hey Donyboy
I did it the way in the video and it worked like a charm thank you very much.
Install the roll pins with anti seize to that helps from rust. They'll still be tight enough that they won't come out an if they do not harm will come to the machine
Always excellent explanation and very valuable advice. Thanks
What I do when I heat something like that, I cool it or dip in water right after being heated. This give a thermic choc and break the rust. Then things could be taken apart like they are new.
Heating with the torch and cooling quickly with water works every time, and you don’t have to worry about hot parts.
Does any body know if it is possible to upgrade to a 4 blade impeller instead of this MTD 3 bladed one?
Will I be able to get it hot enough with a household blow torch? Got the pins out but the shaft is frozen
Soaked over night with on blaster will try again in morn
But if not gonna need heat
will be extremely difficult unless you use MAPP gas
Hey Dony i have a question i was hoping u could help me with. I have a stihl ms250 saw and i havent started it a while. I cranked it up and it would only run for a second then bog down and die. It did that about ten times. I started messing with the carb adjustments and now it wont come on at all. Can u give me an idea how they are set from the factory, or do u know of something else i should be doing? Spark plug looks good (it did have a lil oil on it but not much) and the gas looks ok. Any help u could give me would be great! Thank you.
If you don't have an oxy-acetylene torch, would a plain propane torch do (or is it not hot enough???)?
What if there's no bolt hole? (and there's a keyway near the end)... like my craftsman.
what about the trick they do with candle wax? Like the use on lug nuts. I've never tried this but I've heard it works. Just wondering. Thanks!!
A hydraulic press would be ideal if the snow blower blade could fit underneath press,I've worked for different companies who I've done that sort of work for but I'd never use a snow blower in my life because in Australia, it only snows where there's high altitude, about 150 kilometres (90 miles) away from where I live,we have a mountain range where is snows, it cold enough to breed Tasmanian devils on.
Taryl (Tim) has a very good method of removing rusted & seized parts using the heat & quench method,note I started working in a workshop more like his.
I have to find out why I've had to move onto from a lot of companies even the bigger ones,the smaller ones don't keep me & the larger ones it's as if they don't know where I've started.
In 2009,I found a Hebbard whose my relation ,so I'm not sure if Don is another one of him,perhaps Taryl is,that one is a distant cousin through my parents sides (Jones).
They are in the mining industry so where I started is not what they do , they don't think that I can work in that one,yet I can't go back to another one of them & repair power tools as most of them have closed down.
In 2010,he told me I was better off looking for other work but I found out another form of him that's not into mining is only a lifestyle coach, what good are they ?
I left one of them in 2006 (Amway AMO) as I wasn't making any money so I must get that's all another Hebbard is - a lifestyle coach or motivational speaker & Taryl may go as far as to say being a used car salesperson is their other work.
when i nod my head you hit it 1 2 3 thank you donny boy
Smashing video and tips don :-D
Those hard punches look ideal :-D
Heat allows you to remove rusted exhaust pipe fittings on cars, it is the only thing that can break the rust, the metal needs to be cherry red, its a last resort but works :-D
Hey was wanting to ask you if you ever have trouble with connecting rod bolts that vibrate lose and what would be the best way to prevent it. Thanks
Donnie carrico put locktite on them. It’s cheap insurance.
Does the heat change the strength of the metal?
no
you would have to heat it quite hotter that the torch could get it.
+al b Wrong. The temperature of the oxy-acetylene torch could easily turn steel into melted cheese.
+donyboy73 Also wrong. If you anneal the metal, it will indeed change the strength (properties) of the metal (alloy). The key is to not heat it past its recrystallization point (see: Iron-Carbon phase diagram).
I do agree it changed the strength but, we're talking about a low RPM impeller, not a fine tuned piano.
Walter's Playground Wrong if you watch the video Donyboy does not heat up the parts to red hot. if you did that then yes you could affect the strength but not for what he is doing.
Helpful for any thing like this. Thanks and have a good weekend!
I abuse my England #3 vises the same way (i have 2) Great video don. Merry Christmas to you and the Family. It is that time of year now for us Canucks.
Hey Don, if you ever get an Ariens 10000 series (1960-61-1974) in your shop that needs the friction disk replaced. Please make a video. Their are tons of 10000 series still out their and they have one of the most complex gear boxes of all snowblowers to change a friction disk on. A video changing one will help a ton of people including me.
Thanks
here's an older ariens friction disc replacement video th-cam.com/video/16wyIncM8Ls/w-d-xo.html
donyboy73 Yea I saw that one, unfortunately thats after they got smart and made changing the friction disk easier. Theirs about 15 steps involved with the 10000 series. Parts of the frame literally have to be dismantled. Theirs instructions on doing it if you know where to find them, but even with that, you have to have pretty good knowledge of snowblowers to change it. Well if you ever get a 10000 series in for a new friction disk, hopefully you can film it. Their unique machines. Thanks for the link anyway.
Yes, that video is for a post 1974 Ariens , not the older 10000 series. I too have 3 of these machines (2 1969's and a 1973 version) and would love to see a video on how to replace the friction disk as well on these old dinosaurs!
Hey Donny, Thanks for the tip I am sure it will come of great use to me !!!
Hey Don try pb blaster it is way better then liquid wrench you can get it at Canadian tire and home depot. At the dealership we starting using it it really works.
got some
Krown lubricants also work very well. They also make a great penetrating oil.
Good job as usual Don these can be a nightmare
Don why are you separating the shaft from the impeller blade? Is it because, you are thinking about using these parts in the future?
yes
good tips and good editing of the video.....thanks
What is the gear oil number? Can you repeat it please.
Great video for anything with those pins.
Awesome as usual
Great job as always
for heating try rose bud tip.
Hey, Dony, another great video from You.
Maybe someday in the near future You are considering making video about how You got into small engine business and started YT channel?
Why never do you show how to take out the camshafts bearing in all videos ?
Thanks Dony
Great video. Thanks
I made r]the mistake of buying a mtd snowblower that was used and had a small bend in the impeller . After I got it home I found out someone had welded the impeller to the shaft Ii I wanted to fix it I had to buy the whole thing .
Dony, I notice you are using "Liquid Wrench" penetrating fluid. Is that your favourite? I just bought some last year (probably after watching your videos! lol) and it seems to work well. Thanks, Brian
Thanks for another great video!
good information Dony ...
i use a airhammer
Great video! Hope I never have to do this.
Great video Don as always. You forgot one thing, all the cursing and yelling when you’ve used Penetrating oil, roll pin punches, and a torch and the little buggers still won’t come out. HAHA!
I edited that out!
Those are pin punches, not roll pin punches. Also, penetrants that use a refrigerant as an accelerant will poison a person if they use flame with it.
Some of those impellers are impossable to remove, even with torches and a 20ton press.
Same as me, you had to learn sometimes on the hard way.....
awesome don , ... thanks .. †
Sure those are roll pin punches.... they look like pin punches to me.
Hi Dony Can you answer a fast question? th-cam.com/video/vSjgNoAZWjc/w-d-xo.html this little murray you show how to adjust the drive cable. I have the murry g2250030 22in 5hp, 6spd The drive belt looks nice but its kinda loose. The adjustment you show like mine is there but it a hook w/spring and tension bolt insidespring,even when pulled up to max level it dont effect belt tension. The tensioner for the drive has 1 spring underneath attached to a non adjustable pully.. HOW DO I TIGHTEN BELT?Or does the rotation of the tensioner force tension on the belt as it spins maybe? TY SIR!!!
Not a removal it’s a repair
You said a person should have a torch set if they can afford it.
(Maybe not verbatim) I say you can't afford not to have a set.
yes that's more the saying!