Pulling my pulley took about 5 hours. You are exactly right.......they are a bear to get off! After pulling it, the key remained on the shaft and i cannot seem to get it off. I have a John Deere 726 snow blower. Your videos are a God send of information!!! Thank you....
You did it exactly right, good job. Before heating do this first. Put all the pull you feel safe with, then do a sharp blow on the end of the puller bolt. Doesn't hurt the puller but usually the shock breaks it loose, especially on tapered shafts like a steering wheel. Good video.
I know this might sound a bit odd, but please try it. Do everything you did before and when you have reached max heat pour a cup of water on it. The parts contract at different rates so that this method can often be successful.
I had that exact same problem with my 40 year old JD 832. But I destroyed the pulley as the puller I used grabbed the outside lip providing too much leverage. I ended up drilling 2 holes in the body of the pulley and pulling it off with a strong puller, much like you did. You are good sir.
Thank you. Your method work perfectly when I tried to remove my snow thrower pulley!!! I didn't have to apply as much heat as you did, but it worked. I NEVER would have thought to drill holes in the pulley. BRILLIANT! Thank You!!
Dear Don, I hope you, along with your wife, and family will have a Merry Christmas! Love the ingenuity on removing a stubborn snowblower auger pulley. Awesome job! P.S. I would like to say. A big thank you for all the tremendous hard work you do, and including your videos too! It's very much appreciated! :-)
Thanks for ur videos Donyboy-they are great...I have two C950's(5 & 8) now and I couldn't get the auger pulley off the 8 for a bearing replacement until I saw ur vid. I tried the bolt/puller idea but didn't have the equipment to get the heat. I used ur bolt hole idea but used a holesaw to make two larger holes next to the hub so I cud get standard 4" puller arms to hook onto the backside of the hub. I used a chain-wrench to hold the arms together while applying MAP heat..and it worked fine but the shaft/pulley fought it all the way off with loud metal snap noises for the entire length of the removal. Thanks for taking the time to make your vids clear and informative.
Drill holes in the pulley what a great idea, I will remember that in the future . Great video Dony more good info there. Once again have a great Christmas.
Don thanks for keeping videos available to watch. I just worked on an Ariens last night. I have a home made wheel puller. I also needed acetylene to heat it up. Could you do a video on the tools you have for pulling wheels, pulleys, and bearings off. I'm 77 and not sure if I want to buy a set but I know you have to have the right tools to do the job. Thanks again
Very helpful videos. I was able to get 2 pulleys off some old snowblower engines the other day just by heating the old pulley and spraying some PB blaster on the shaft. No puller needed.
First, thanks for posting your videos. They're excellent and extremely helpful. Here's my questions: -What's the torque spec for the bolt (3/8-24) that holds the pulleys onto the crankshaft for an 8hp (HMSK80)Tecumseh engine on a Noma 824 snowblower? -Should I put anti-seize grease on the bolt threads and/or the crankshaft? -What's the max RPM for this engine? Thanks!
Merry Christmas, Big D. I had seen some peeps use an air chisel backed up by a crow-bar. In general, it's always a torch for me on anything over 5 years old (nobody seems to cover their mowers down here, and I have never actually seen a snow-blower in real-life here either).
Awesome! I have an old Hahn with a similar design. used map gas and a ball joint separator tool behind it and it wouldn't budge. Can t wait to try this, hope it works. Thanks donyboy.
Thanks for posting this. I had to do the same thing but I did not have to heat it up. I turned the puller to get pressure on it then struck it with a hammer. It took a while but I got it off
Been using PB blaster....was thinking of trying to use an old trick I've used on cars. Get it red hot then dump cold water on it. The shock of being quenched used to break bolts free for me all the time.
Don I have an old 10/28 Brentwood Noma w Techumseh 10hp engine. The drive disc pulls is like a spoke wheel that is right up tight to inside wall. Has a square threaded screw. Do I need to remove it to install a new drive belt. If so what is he best method. Please help
I need help with the drive pully....any tips its a craftsman 8hp 25 track drive 90s blower . I took the pully lock screw and tried to pull off, no luck . Is it a pull off or screw off i was gonna use your pully trick but not sure if it is a pull or screw off. Thanks again....
I have a snowblower DG828E and I need to change the impeller bearing. This is the same type as this video. The new bearing came with a key slot. The problem is the part of the shaft where the bearing sits is too narrow so the bearing is very loose. Is this because the shaft is worn out or am I missing something?
Donyboy your series of snowblower videos are GREAT! Thanks so much. I am trying to put the auger pulley and coupler back onto the fine-splined shaft that I accidently mushroomed a little while trying to knock the impeller shaft through, There IS no fixing a mushroomed splined shaft is there? I tried to clean up the splines as best I could but the pulley adapter still won't slide over the shaft.
donyboy73 Thanks! I tried filing it and sanding it---but if I were to grind it down, along the beveled egde at the end of the shaft, maybe it will be small enough to slide in. The splines are undamaged as far as I can tell----thanks again this will certainly help!
I am trying to remove the auger pulley on a toro CCR2000 snowblower. But unlike your above example, this Toro pulley is made of plastic with only a center portion made of metal that goes on the spindle. Tried PB blaster and small crowbar to left it off, but it won't budge. The manual says it pulls off..LOL. Thought about drilling two holes as in your example, but don't think the plastic pulley will hold the forces. Any ideas worth trying without destroying the plastic pulley?
Kinda dealing with the same but different issue right now...I have an auger that's seized onto the shaft. I've heated and heated it, pounded on it, managed to get a puller on it and left the puller on while i heated and pounded some more...They just aren't separating. Its an old John Deere 826 model.
In my experience with this type of problem is to be patient, soak the part with penetrating oil and wait a day, if the part did not come apart soak it again and wait overnight, a small amount of heat initially is helpful, but not hot enough to evaporate the oil
I wanna ask you something about the starter kit , Well I have a old 1030 snowthrower and pretty much rebuilt it then my starter shit the bed . only thing the part number is different from the new ones . Could you tell me if the new part number work for my snowthrower ? From the pics online they seem same . My starter number is 13286 # is the 33329 series the same ? Thank you and I hope you have awsome Christmas
you have to be quick when using heat try to keep the shaft cool but the pully hot its hard to do but if you get both parts red hot they both expand so its like trying to pull it off when its cold but its hot. so leaving tension on the puller while heating up the pully from the outside working in would be ur best bet it should pop at one point.
Yes you can use 300 cold cranking amps in your lawn tractor but more cold cranking amps should not hurt any thing because i use a battery that has 340 cold cranking amps even in the summer months and I have never burned out the solenoid and the lawn tractor is 23 years old with the original solenoid!
Hi Dony, Nice clear video easy to follow as usual, another good job. Dony I have been working on my equipment for the last 20 plus years. Wish I though of utube years ago. The things I did by trial & error would not have been necessary due to guys like you who are willing to help out. I decided to start a shop from home. Are you willing to help with advice on the start up? If so do you have an email I can contact you at?
Hi Dony. I know this is an old video, but I have a small engine question for you. I am a sm eng tech myself, and I am in the market for a good bolt puller like the one you used in this video on the pulley. There is a HUGE gap in prices on these pullers, and I imagine that quality and overall reliability is a factor. Could you message back, or mention in one of your videos what brand you use, price, opinions, etc? I would be most appreciative. Thank you, and I am a proud subscriber.
I think the new snow blowers don't have this issue as bad ESPECIALLY THE TORO ONES. Because I think they use an aluminum pulley.. aluminum does not rust. Correct me if I'm wrong? And if they are metal how to stop this in the future. Can you just spray some as you said before What you used on bearings in the gearbox on both sides of pulleys ( spray chain lubricant on both sides if you can get to it?)
Had the exact same thing happen to me. Listen to this video. I didn't use the two hole method and bent the pulley. I also damaged the shaft in the process. It's going to cost around 160.00 to replace that shaft alone.
Heat up the pulley with oxy/acetylene torch. Put pressure on the pulley with a pry bar. Hit the output shaft with an inverted can of duster spray. Pry up and tap the shaft with a hammer. Pops right off.
Imagine the surprise and frustration that awaits neophytes who get their advice from RepairClinic videos where they demo replacing parts on a brand new snow blower.
Replacing the impeller pins was not as simple as described at least for my Sears snow thrower. The new pins could not be installed in the auger housing since there was no room around the impeller to pound them in. I determined it would be necessary to remove the entire auger assembly to get this done. After separating the auger housing from the engine housing, I could not remove the auger pulley from the auger/impeller shaft . After removing the two bolts holding pulley to the shaft, it would not budge. I had to pound it off the shaft using wood blocks and a sledge hammer! I inserted the blocks under the pulley and pounded with the sledge hammer. After about 20 minutes and several broken 2x4 pieces it finally came loose. Unfortunately, I then found that the bearing ring would not slip off the end of the shaft either. I ended up sanding the shaft with emery cloth for about 15 minutes or so to get the bearing ring to finally slide off. At this point I could pull the entire auger assembly (including the impeller), out of the snow blower housing. I then found pieces of the old impeller pins, which had broken off, still jammed in the impeller mounting holes in the shaft. More banging and pounding required! I started with a steel punch but that only seemed to jam what was left of the pins more firmly into the shaft holes. I finally ended up using a 1/4" diameter x 6" long steel rod to pound out the remaining pin pieces. Once the old pieces were out, installing the new pins was a snap. Just pounded them in with a carpenters hammer.
Wow that was a real evil one, but worth the effort :-) Hopefully you wont see one as bad as that again!! You would have thought the manufacturers would have put the holes there, it has them now :-) Have a decent xmas and a better new year :-)
I destroyed my pulley years ago attempting to remove it from my Honda HS55. Had to buy a new pulley. I wonder why none of the manufacturers include threaded holes on their pulleys in order to remove them? I think I just answered my own question.
i us the same technique to remove ride on mower wheels see my video on removing mower wheels keep up the good work dony always look forward to your q&a and how to videos always ready to learn
I tried penetrating fluid, pullers, heat. Eventually It become a lost cause and I broke out the sledge hammer and a wood splitting wedge. Destroyed the pulley and it didn't move lol. Felt good!
WOW -I hope my 1996 NOMA ~Murray 24incher doesn,t have the same predicament!! I have the Stage /auger area split from the Engine /drive unit. All this Just to replace the Auger shift cable !!!!
Just what I did on Mine,, only Had to use a M.A.P. gas torch & a Ten-Dollar Harmonic Balancer/Flywheel Puller & a lot of Penetrant Oils---- I could Have pryed it off,the Auger Drive Pulley -But I figured -Do it by Dony,s way--- He seems trustworthy.
I have a similar machine and the impeller shaft is slightly bent. The pulley doesn't want to budge I have soaked the shaft with PB Blaster in the hope that it will eventually soak through enough for me to get the pulley off. I agree that Murray has made things difficult by putting the auger belt idler pulley and brake mechanism on the auger housing. I don't know why they made this change it seems that things were easier when they were on the main chassis.
It worked got the bitc#% off with my puller good tip thanks too bad it was too long gone to repair but now i know how to remove with ease....thanks my Canadian friend...
![How to Fix a Snowblower Auger Gear [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k4rk8AZY7WQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Pulling my pulley took about 5 hours. You are exactly right.......they are a bear to get off! After pulling it, the key remained on the shaft and i cannot seem to get it off. I have a John Deere 726 snow blower.
Your videos are a God send of information!!! Thank you....
You did it exactly right, good job. Before heating do this first. Put all the pull you feel safe with, then do a sharp blow on the end of the puller bolt. Doesn't hurt the puller but usually the shock breaks it loose, especially on tapered shafts like a steering wheel. Good video.
Thanks for the tips!
I know this might sound a bit odd, but please try it. Do everything you did before and when you have reached max heat pour a cup of water on it. The parts contract at different rates so that this method can often be successful.
I had that exact same problem with my 40 year old JD 832. But I destroyed the pulley as the puller I used grabbed the outside lip providing too much leverage. I ended up drilling 2 holes in the body of the pulley and pulling it off with a strong puller, much like you did. You are good sir.
Thank you. Your method work perfectly when I tried to remove my snow thrower pulley!!! I didn't have to apply as much heat as you did, but it worked. I NEVER would have thought to drill holes in the pulley. BRILLIANT!
Thank You!!
+jg thanks, make sure you're subscribed
Dear Don, I hope you, along with your wife, and family will have a Merry Christmas! Love the ingenuity on removing a stubborn snowblower auger pulley. Awesome job!
P.S. I would like to say. A big thank you for all the tremendous hard work you do, and including your videos too! It's very much appreciated! :-)
Donyboy you saved me a lot of heart ache. Thank you so much. I drilled the holes as described ; worked perfectly.
Thanks for ur videos Donyboy-they are great...I have two C950's(5 & 8) now and I couldn't get the auger pulley off the 8 for a bearing replacement until I saw ur vid. I tried the bolt/puller idea but didn't have the equipment to get the heat. I used ur bolt hole idea but used a holesaw to make two larger holes next to the hub so I cud get standard 4" puller arms to hook onto the backside of the hub. I used a chain-wrench to hold the arms together while applying MAP heat..and it worked fine but the shaft/pulley fought it all the way off with loud metal snap noises for the entire length of the removal. Thanks for taking the time to make your vids clear and informative.
you're welcome
somtimes the best tool in the box is a little heat great vid donno!!
Drill holes in the pulley what a great idea, I will remember that in the future . Great video Dony more good info there. Once again have a great Christmas.
Don thanks for keeping videos available to watch. I just worked on an Ariens last night. I have a home made wheel puller. I also needed acetylene to heat it up. Could you do a video on the tools you have for pulling wheels, pulleys, and bearings off. I'm 77 and not sure if I want to buy a set but I know you have to have the right tools to do the job. Thanks again
Very helpful videos. I was able to get 2 pulleys off some old snowblower engines the other day just by heating the old pulley and spraying some PB blaster on the shaft. No puller needed.
a smashing thanks for being a loyal viewer!
ive been doing that for years.its not fun,but it works.merry christmas!
i enjoy watching your videos so far, thanks for taking the time to do them
thanks
First, thanks for posting your videos. They're excellent and extremely helpful.
Here's my questions:
-What's the torque spec for the bolt (3/8-24) that holds the pulleys onto the crankshaft for an 8hp (HMSK80)Tecumseh engine on a Noma 824 snowblower?
-Should I put anti-seize grease on the bolt threads and/or the crankshaft?
-What's the max RPM for this engine?
Thanks!
what are you heating with?
Merry Christmas, Big D.
I had seen some peeps use an air chisel backed up by a crow-bar.
In general, it's always a torch for me on anything over 5 years old (nobody seems to cover their mowers down here, and I have never actually seen a snow-blower in real-life here either).
Merry Christmas dony. Hope you and you family enjoy and have good health . .
Great video. Ugggg what a hassle doing this when you don't have a shop and your just out on the drive way, and maybe its dark. Been there done that!!!
GREAT JOB ,GREAT VIDEOS, MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND YOUR WIFE,AND HAPPY NEW YEAR,THANKS FOR THE VIDEOS.
Awesome! I have an old Hahn with a similar design. used map gas and a ball joint separator tool behind it and it wouldn't budge. Can t wait to try this, hope it works. Thanks donyboy.
Thanks for posting this. I had to do the same thing but I did not have to heat it up. I turned the puller to get pressure on it then struck it with a hammer. It took a while but I got it off
Excellent video donyboy73, i can tell it's not your first BBQ! Joyeuses Fêtes a vous tous...
Been using PB blaster....was thinking of trying to use an old trick I've used on cars. Get it red hot then dump cold water on it. The shock of being quenched used to break bolts free for me all the time.
Don I have an old 10/28 Brentwood Noma w Techumseh 10hp engine. The drive disc pulls is like a spoke wheel that is right up tight to inside wall. Has a square threaded screw. Do I need to remove it to install a new drive belt. If so what is he best method. Please help
I need help with the drive pully....any tips its a craftsman 8hp 25 track drive 90s blower .
I took the pully lock screw and tried to pull off, no luck .
Is it a pull off or screw off i was gonna use your pully trick but not sure if it is a pull or screw off. Thanks again....
I have a snowblower DG828E and I need to change the impeller bearing. This is the same type as this video. The new bearing came with a key slot. The problem is the part of the shaft where the bearing sits is too narrow so the bearing is very loose. Is this because the shaft is worn out or am I missing something?
Dony, Bon idea on the holes. Please show more vids with the carbon arc torch! Much cheaper and convenient for occasional use than oxy/acetylene!
Donyboy your series of snowblower videos are GREAT! Thanks so much. I am trying to put the auger pulley and coupler back onto the fine-splined shaft that I accidently mushroomed a little while trying to knock the impeller shaft through, There IS no fixing a mushroomed splined shaft is there? I tried to clean up the splines as best I could but the pulley adapter still won't slide over the shaft.
you could maybe grind the mushroomed end
donyboy73 Thanks! I tried filing it and sanding it---but if I were to grind it down, along the beveled egde at the end of the shaft, maybe it will be small enough to slide in. The splines are undamaged as far as I can tell----thanks again this will certainly help!
Happy Holidays dony
Thanks for the great tip! Most certainly wouldn't have come off otherwise, even with the heat I had to drive the puller with the impact gun!
I am trying to remove the auger pulley on a toro CCR2000 snowblower. But unlike your above example, this Toro pulley is made of plastic with only a center portion made of metal that goes on the spindle. Tried PB blaster and small crowbar to left it off, but it won't budge. The manual says it pulls off..LOL. Thought about drilling two holes as in your example, but don't think the plastic pulley will hold the forces. Any ideas worth trying without destroying the plastic pulley?
i would use the bigger lawn tractor battery of approx 300 cca
Thumbs up,Merry Christmas Don!
Kinda dealing with the same but different issue right now...I have an auger that's seized onto the shaft. I've heated and heated it, pounded on it, managed to get a puller on it and left the puller on while i heated and pounded some more...They just aren't separating. Its an old John Deere 826 model.
In my experience with this type of problem is to be patient, soak the part with penetrating oil and wait a day, if the part did not come apart soak it again and wait overnight, a small amount of heat initially is helpful, but not hot enough to evaporate the oil
I wanna ask you something about the starter kit , Well I have a old 1030 snowthrower and pretty much rebuilt it then my starter shit the bed . only thing the part number is different from the new ones . Could you tell me if the new part number work for my snowthrower ? From the pics online they seem same . My starter number is 13286 # is the 33329 series the same ? Thank you and I hope you have awsome Christmas
your tip to use a face mask as well is a very very good one...well done..
A hand grinder with a cut-off disc would get that old bearing off fast. Like the 2 bolt and carbon arc trick. Thank you.
thanks
you have to be quick when using heat try to keep the shaft cool but the pully hot its hard to do but if you get both parts red hot they both expand so its like trying to pull it off when its cold but its hot. so leaving tension on the puller while heating up the pully from the outside working in would be ur best bet it should pop at one point.
Ou acheter le bearing avec le chemin de clee
Yes you can use 300 cold cranking amps in your lawn tractor but more cold cranking amps should not hurt any thing because i use a battery that has 340 cold cranking amps even in the summer months and I have never burned out the solenoid and the lawn tractor is 23 years old with the original solenoid!
Hi Dony, Nice clear video easy to follow as usual, another good job. Dony I have been working on my equipment for the last 20 plus years. Wish I though of utube years ago. The things I did by trial & error would not have been necessary due to guys like you who are willing to help out. I decided to start a shop from home. Are you willing to help with advice on the start up? If so do you have an email I can contact you at?
Can you show those carbon torches? Thanks
Merry Christmas
Thank you very much Sir. Please let us know where you buy your carbon rods from!!!
Merry Christmas!
Don does drilling two holes on the pulley require a special drill to penetrate through the steel? Something like a carbide drill?
i'll bemaing a review of my oxy acetylene and the carbon torches
thank you
Hi Dony. I know this is an old video, but I have a small engine question for you. I am a sm eng tech myself, and I am in the market for a good bolt puller like the one you used in this video on the pulley. There is a HUGE gap in prices on these pullers, and I imagine that quality and overall reliability is a factor. Could you message back, or mention in one of your videos what brand you use, price, opinions, etc? I would be most appreciative. Thank you, and I am a proud subscriber.
i've done this before with a snow blower but i never heated anything i just soaked everything in oil for a few days and they always came off
i can help but i'm very busy
Good tip.
great idea thanks
merci
Great tutorials. Thanks for sharing.
I think the new snow blowers don't have this issue as bad ESPECIALLY THE TORO ONES. Because I think they use an aluminum pulley.. aluminum does not rust.
Correct me if I'm wrong?
And if they are metal how to stop this in the future. Can you just spray some as you said before What you used on bearings in the gearbox on both sides of pulleys ( spray chain lubricant on both sides if you can get to it?)
Had the exact same thing happen to me. Listen to this video. I didn't use the two hole method and bent the pulley. I also damaged the shaft in the process. It's going to cost around 160.00 to replace that shaft alone.
Heat up the pulley with oxy/acetylene torch. Put pressure on the pulley with a pry bar. Hit the output shaft with an inverted can of duster spray. Pry up and tap the shaft with a hammer. Pops right off.
Imagine the surprise and frustration that awaits neophytes who get their advice from RepairClinic videos where they demo replacing parts on a brand new snow blower.
merry christmas
Replacing the impeller pins was not as simple as described at least for my Sears snow thrower. The new pins could not be installed in the auger housing since there was no room around the impeller to pound them in. I determined it would be necessary to remove the entire auger assembly to get this done. After separating the auger housing from the engine housing, I could not remove the auger pulley from the auger/impeller shaft . After removing the two bolts holding pulley to the shaft, it would not budge. I had to pound it off the shaft using wood blocks and a sledge hammer! I inserted the blocks under the pulley and pounded with the sledge hammer. After about 20 minutes and several broken 2x4 pieces it finally came loose. Unfortunately, I then found that the bearing ring would not slip off the end of the shaft either. I ended up sanding the shaft with emery cloth for about 15 minutes or so to get the bearing ring to finally slide off. At this point I could pull the entire auger assembly (including the impeller), out of the snow blower housing. I then found pieces of the old impeller pins, which had broken off, still jammed in the impeller mounting holes in the shaft. More banging and pounding required! I started with a steel punch but that only seemed to jam what was left of the pins more firmly into the shaft holes. I finally ended up using a 1/4" diameter x 6" long steel rod to pound out the remaining pin pieces. Once the old pieces were out, installing the new pins was a snap. Just pounded them in with a carpenters hammer.
I had the same exact problem, thanks
good idea, but I'm not sure the pulley will be useful after that if it gets warped
sometimes they have to be sacrificed
Thank you!
Smart move
Wow that was a real evil one, but worth the effort :-)
Hopefully you wont see one as bad as that again!!
You would have thought the manufacturers would have put the holes there, it has them now :-)
Have a decent xmas and a better new year :-)
Your welcome, Don! :-)
I destroyed my pulley years ago attempting to remove it from my Honda HS55. Had to buy a new pulley. I wonder why none of the manufacturers include threaded holes on their pulleys in order to remove them? I think I just answered my own question.
can i change a techemseh engine 8.5 to a john derre snowblower
jim norton if everything lines up, i.e. pulleys and engine mounting holes
i us the same technique to remove ride on mower wheels
see my video on removing mower wheels
keep up the good work dony
always look forward to your q&a and how to videos always ready to learn
I'm not trying to remove the pulley, trying to get the augers off the auger shafts.
I've done this same thing with a lawnmower.
I am trying to remove the auger from the shaft, Not the pulley.
I tried penetrating fluid, pullers, heat. Eventually It become a lost cause and I broke out the sledge hammer and a wood splitting wedge. Destroyed the pulley and it didn't move lol. Felt good!
YES DO NOT MUSHROOM THAT SHAFT OR YOU WILL NOT REMVE OR GET THE PULLEY BACK ON !! HAPPY HOLIDAYS DONY TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY!!
thank you...
since you've watched so many of my videos I should buy you some popcorn! lol
donyboy73 hope watching them helps you out...
WOW -I hope my 1996 NOMA ~Murray 24incher doesn,t have the same predicament!! I have the Stage /auger area split from the Engine /drive unit. All this Just to replace the Auger shift cable !!!!
Just what I did on Mine,, only Had to use a M.A.P. gas torch & a Ten-Dollar Harmonic Balancer/Flywheel Puller & a lot of Penetrant Oils---- I could Have pryed it off,the Auger Drive Pulley -But I figured -Do it by Dony,s way--- He seems trustworthy.
I have a similar machine and the impeller shaft is slightly bent. The pulley doesn't want to budge I have soaked the shaft with PB Blaster in the hope that it will eventually soak through enough for me to get the pulley off. I agree that Murray has made things difficult by putting the auger belt idler pulley and brake mechanism on the auger housing. I don't know why they made this change it seems that things were easier when they were on the main chassis.
I am using an oxy-acetylene torch.
Nice
Using a pooler
It worked got the bitc#% off with my puller good tip thanks too bad it was too long gone to repair but now i know how to remove with ease....thanks my Canadian friend...
1030 snapper large frame snow thrower .....
ー
your probably going to have to sacrifice it
Get it hotter and add some penetrating oil to the mix
Bent the shit out of my pulley today with a big 2 jaw puller so I’m gunna cut it off with a grinder
Come do mine lol
lol
Merry christmas
thank you