Thanks for taking the time to make this video. One little additional step I did when I installed this on my snowblower was to use my 1/2" diameter sanding drum on my DREMEL to remove a little rubber right in the spot where the rubber passes over the carriage bolts that holds the chute on. You can do this very easily after the impeller kit is installed. I also sprayed some silicone in the impeller housing to make the break in a little easier.
Bought this for my small back deck in the Eastern Sierra. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN We get A LOT of HEAVY snow so I was a bit skeptical but it was worth it! After the first storm of the year this has exceeded expectations! It throws snow very well, even 10-12” + that said the more it piles up the harder it is to maneuver the machine. It is exceptionally light weight and overall exactly what I was looking for. If you have a large amount of snow and a lot of area to clear, you may consider something with a drive engine to help maneuverability, but for decks, second stories, roofs etc, you can’t beat the light weight to great snow throwing ratio. Side note, the chute rotator is a bit flimsy and it initially didn’t seem to work, after a few uses it seems to have loosened up.
Well there is proof in the pudding as I completed this modification to my 1032 John Deere snow blower and it’s the best now. Throws snow and slushy snow 20-25 feet, and does NOT clog the shoot. The John Deere has 4 impellers so from watching another Utuber he only put the rubber flaps on two impellers instead of all four. WORKS great! I picked up a two pack of 3-M brand rubber anti slip tread material from Tractor Supply for $10.00 these were 4 inches wide by 12 inches long. After drilling two 5/16 inch holes in each of the opposite impellers and secured with 5/16 inch bolts fender washers and self lock nuts all went smooth. Total cost was $12.56 about thirty minutes to complete the project. Wish I had completed this years ago………..
I never even used my blower yet, but after seeing so many of these videos, I decided to add the belting to my impellers also. There was about a 3/8" gap between the blades and the housing so I'm sure it will work better than stock. It runs smooth and doesn't make any noise and doesn't make the engine work any harder. I mounted them tight against the housing, so they will need to "seat" in like piston rings. I sprayed the inside of the housing with silicone spray to lube it a bit. I ran it for about 15 minutes and now it's good to go!
First I rotated the impeller to locate the narrowest gap to housing measurement. Then I used this measurement to locate the rubber wipes (kit) on all four of the impeller blades. This I figured would reduce un-necessary wear on the housing where the rubber wipes come into contact with it and it will wear pretty quickly as it breaks in. Has certainly improved the performance of it's blowing capability with minimal housing wear. Your videos are always very informative and thank you for demonstrating in detail this great modification.
Great video. I have done this to my last few snow blowers. Works great. Will even throw the wet slushy snow without getting clogged. I used a cheap mudflap from Prinessauto and cut 3 pieces to fit each impeller arm. I never had the metal plate so I used big washers.
Great vid. Only thing I did differently was to use a step drill bit. It makes drilling the holes 10 times faster. I even used my old cordless drill, and the step bit was through the impeller blade in about 5 seconds on each hole. I’d highly recommend using a quality step bit like the DeWalt.
I did this to the landlords older snowblower. I used some old cut up bike tires. He never noticed the modification, but said it sounded different. Decided to ignore it. But was surprised at how well it was working. Until I finally smiled and told him. Days later. He was amused.
Perfect ! ... we just got 81” wet, heavy ‘ paste ‘ up here in Buffalo . My 10hp. 28” blower was useless after the first foot fell . Can’t wait to do this !!!
Hey South Towner, I’m in Cheektowaga. My blower froze up to so I used Rainex pump sprayer to coat inside chute. Temporary fixed it. This guy’s squeegee solution seems like it would strain the engine. I hope you post your results and findings. I’m curious.
I have a old Murray snowblower. I made my own Impeller modification. I bought the piece of metal with holes and a mud flap. The Murray snowblower has a hole in the Impeller so no need to drill a hole. Works great but didn't have heavy snow last year to test it on wet snow.
Go to Fleet Farm and buy the heavy "bailer belt" @ $7 for a 7" x 12" piece and use self tappers to hold it in place. No need for the backing plate. I always make this modification whenever I buy a "new" used blower.
I did it to my troybilt 2410 in 2014 after i bought it new the first time i used it the snow was wet and kept clogging. So i searched recommendations on the Tube for a remedy. I made my own with supplies from tractor supply and haven't looked back! The closest thing to injecting steroids into your snowblower! And throws almost twice as far. 💯💯💯 Ps, i used conveyor belt material which is a reinforced type rubber, and small nyloc nuts n bolts. Never an issue. I have other guys confront me why my budget friendly snowblower is so impressive! Lol
Did this to my 25 year old YardMaster, this past summer. Today we got 3 inches of heavy wet snow. Couldn't wait to try it out. Before, I would have been stopping constantly to clean the chute out. Today, I did have to slow the forward travel so the impeller could keep pace. Perfect(?) no, but it moved that heavy wet stuff. As in the video, I put the paddles up to the housing, and heard the same clacking noise, as the rubber hit on the heads of internal bolts. By the time I did the sidewalks (5' X 160') plus two driveways there was no noise. I also cut the rubber and metal backing plates in half.
I had a simplicity in line blower two stage snow blower from the 70s it had these large rubber paddles and I'll tell for a machine with only a six horse engine it would chuck that snow 50 feet or more. On the machines I use similar to yours Ive found a good slathering with a waterproofing spray at the beginning of the season and some touch up between the snow won't stick on anything and I spray the whole machine inside and out I use Camp Dry water proofing spray works pretty good on the machine and my Carhartts as well.😁👍
Great video.... Jus got a kit for my 15YO 30" Yardmachine that has a good 1/2" gap!! Not to worried about any rubbing or smoke cuz its jus break in procedure and it's winter here so I'll be able to test it out asap. 😁❄️
I did this with pieces of conveyor belt and it works great. Another thing to do is get a bottle of ceramic car spray and spray the auger area and blower two or three times as well as the chute and the wet snow will go much farther and not jamb up. it will also stop rocks from getting stuck between the blower and case. The rubber pieces are more pliable and conform to the case shape better than the hard ones. The spray also works on a riding mower under the deck and inside of the chute.
One suggestion would be to turn your bolts around. The less material you have sticking out the more easily snow will clear from the working side of the impellor. Carriage bolts would be even better.
I've been doing this for several years but I never buy these impeller kits. Just go to your local Fleet Farm or comparable place and you can buy "bailer belt", 7" wide, for $7 and use #12 self tapping screws. You can make 12 paddles/scrapers, for less than $2 each. You don't need the metal backing plate. I have 4 blowers of various HP and size and the modifications work on all of them.
OK, I have seen my fair share about this. If you think that this is the solution for all the clogging, you're wrong. Yes, it will help, however, only to a certain point. If the snow is wet and heavy, it will clogg and there is nothing you can do. I have done those "rubber jobs" way before internet and youtube and as I said, it works, but only to a certain point. If the snow becomes too heavy to "fly" out, nothing will work anymore and you have to clean it out by hand.
Another tip to get the snow to blow out off the machine better - and help prevent rust! Go to local auto supply store,and buy the cheapest spray-on car wax they have. Spray down the entire insideof the snow intake area, then the chute, and just to make it neater, the outside of the snowbwers intake area and transmissin cover (not the engine)!!!! You don't even have to wipeit all down to make the machine "shine" like you would do a car - just coat the metal with wax and it'd do the job of making the snow not stick and move faster, thus farther.
Farmhand hodgepodge. There's a whole dichotomy to snowblower engineering - you've added weight to the impeller that affects the torque of the engine not designed for the additional stress. Snow has a physics all its own meaning it has bulk along with the weight of throwing snow. You can't say "no more clogging" because it isn't the impeller's design causing snow to clog the chute! Heavy wet snow due to temp change weighs the snow down close to a slush state, thus it's more advantageous to coat the chute, impeller, snow shroud with silicone (Aerosole spray). By adding the rubber you've also added more impeller resistance, taxing the engine slightly more. I've been coating the interior of my snow throwers for decades without clogs - in fact when snow gets over-weighted from higher temps the chute doesn't clog as long as I have the CC's or HP of an adequate engine to throw it. If you ain't got the power to push the snow your "wiper" system won't make a difference.
@JD-kg3mx Proof is in the pudding. I have used mine modified for about 3 years. I would never go back and the engine is not complaining. Also, "No More Clogging"😏
Every one of these videos I see everybody forget some major step than never unplug the coil wire going to the spark plug. I've seen the startup pretty easy. Somebody shutting their machine off, putting the rod down there to clean up the shoot and just barely bumping it and it start up. Something to think about. That'd be one of the first things I do before I stick any tools, especially my arms I've seen it first hand with a lawn mower. Somebody doing that? Trying to get something that was on the blade. They touch the blade and pushed it and it was at the right stroke inside the motor and it worked like a counterbalance shaft. Just a little bit of pressure and it just grabbed being on that right stroke and it started up. Took his fingers right off
I hear ya. On this snowblower the drive belt to the engine was disengaged so turning the auger or impeller does not turn the engine and the ignition is also switched to off.
I know a lot of people do it but there's a lot of people that don't know how and they turn to TH-cam and other social media things to look how to do things. Even though it was done prior, it wasn't shown and people don't do it. But sometimes those belts may be disengaged, but overnight they can form a little bit of rust on the pulleys. Just enough for that belt to grab. If you grab the first stage or second stage of the snow blower and rotate it. I just hate to see somebody get hurt
...mmm I did install impeller mods a few years ago . when the snow is dry = it will throw it a lot further . BUT when its wet I still get snow stuck in the chute even after spraying the chute with lube !
Same here. It’s the same blower with a different sticker on it. Looking for the type of oil to use in the gearbox for the auger. If you know, please leave a reply. Thanks!
Hey, you use whatever is available to you at a reasonable cost. My piece of belt cost $7 and will make 12+ pieces. Mudflaps will make probably 36+ pieces per flap. How many impellers will you modify jn your lifetime?
If I may add.....i did this mod to both my snow blowers and it took my 2 machines almost 40 minutes to break in and quiet down.....so If you do this mod and the noise does not go away in just a few minutes like his did.....don't panic.....it will.....it just may take longer.
my theory is that with that small gap.....small rocks and debris that may find its way in there have less of a chance being shot out of there....maybe they are required to have that gap for that reason.??? just a thought.
Good job.. Im about to do the same mod on our Troy Bilt that looks exactly the same as your Craftsman... Have you ever changed the augers gear oil or is it a closed unit?
Could just be that your auger belt is tight which wouldn't allow it to free spin like this. It doesn't need to free spin like this when it's off, so if it's working when the machine is running it should be good. If it isn't broke, don't fix it in short....
@@SeanBrennan007 my impeller seems to be stopping them will kick in again and work fine. This will happen on and off while I use it. Would the auger bearings be the cause?
This blower was givin to me by my father in law, it was like brand new. For my front driveway I have an Ariens 32 sno thro from the mid 70's and it is a beast!!👍
The manufacturers would have to charge more to pay for the labor and parts to do this mod. He didn't accomplish this in 5 minutes and most people just compare prices when making a purchase.
Aha I see what is going on. I just bought this honda snow blower last year and it was shooting snow pretty good. Inside that impleller housing, whoever owned it before must have done their own modification. I was wondering why I don't see that sheeting in other same hondas having a separate metal sheeting. The fellow had installed a metal liner there. And it gave out finally. I guess due to compromised housing. The liner finally decided to give. It got jammed and shut down everything. So I walked it out of there and now it doesn't shoot that far,
First problem its a Craftsman 2 you can do this without buying a kit you can make this rubber a backing plate some bolts and nuts . Dry lube the the impeller housing
@@davidclayton6521 take it down a notch Chief... When you factor in the time to get supplies, plus gas money driving to the store, you could have just bought the kit delivered to your doorstep.
Hey, Gavino. Amazon currently has the 3-bladed 3/8" kit on sale. (From $45 to $37). A lot of guys scoff at that price, but the rubber paddles in the kit are exactly what is needed, and the exact hardness to work the best in the application. Plus, the hardware is real stainless. IMO, for the price the kit costs, it is worth not having to go hunt for the right hardware, having to find the just the right rubber, cut it, shape it, form the adjustable slots etc. Like I said, this is JUST my opinion. But this kit works great.
Did this today using this tutorial. We’ll see how it works during the next snowstorm. I mounted mine too close to the housing and they got hung up on the carriage bolts that hold the chute on, causing the impeller to lock up. I had to shave the flaps down a little and then it moved. Would recommend test fitting the rubber with the carriage bolts in place first to avoid this.
11:38 Howdy , Thanks for the vid's I wanna throw somethin' passed ya , , , Friction cost's horsepower I did the same thing to , , , My Snowmaster 824 QXE ( 8 hp 24" cut ) I know it sucks , , , , 1/4" is the minimum thanks for your time ty, les
These squeegees wear out almost immediately against the housing so there is only friction for the first few moments, then they barely touch the housing.
It seems to me that if you buy a quality snow blower you don’t need this. In the 25 plus years I have my old Troy Bilt I never had it clog. I even cleaned out in the street that the plow rolled the snow over and that stuff is very heavy and wet. I have to admit I go very slow and only take half at a time but you need to use common sense.
I know you folks mean well with these endless impeller paddle vids...but this is so wrong on so many fronts. I'm 70 now and have been working on these snowblowers since the late 60's. Here is what people seem to either disavow or simply don't comprehend: The impeller blades, whether 3 or 4 blade design, need an air-gap between the impeller housing the the blades. Typical air gap is approx 1/4 inch. The air-gap is designed in and necessary to mix housing air with the snow and push it out the chute with authority. When you damn near eliminate that gap you are adding a ton of unnecessary stress onto the impeller itself...impeller shaft...impeller drive belt. These paddle repair kits were originally designed as a stop-gap repair for impellers with heavily worn blades. Now they seem all the rage and are a huge mistake for a perfectly fine lightly worn snowblower such as yours.
All I know is my blower works way better after installing this mod and the squeegees no longer even make contact with the housing and throws the snow like ten feet farther and I have never had to grab the scooper to clear out the shoot since I’ve installed this mod. That is my experience anyway. 👊
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. One little additional step I did when I installed this on my snowblower was to use my 1/2" diameter sanding drum on my DREMEL to remove a little rubber right in the spot where the rubber passes over the carriage bolts that holds the chute on. You can do this very easily after the impeller kit is installed. I also sprayed some silicone in the impeller housing to make the break in a little easier.
Bought this for my small back deck in the Eastern Sierra. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxoHYZbq5g9fkcAtinlTqstNlje-UQkCHN We get A LOT of HEAVY snow so I was a bit skeptical but it was worth it! After the first storm of the year this has exceeded expectations! It throws snow very well, even 10-12” + that said the more it piles up the harder it is to maneuver the machine. It is exceptionally light weight and overall exactly what I was looking for. If you have a large amount of snow and a lot of area to clear, you may consider something with a drive engine to help maneuverability, but for decks, second stories, roofs etc, you can’t beat the light weight to great snow throwing ratio. Side note, the chute rotator is a bit flimsy and it initially didn’t seem to work, after a few uses it seems to have loosened up.
awesome!
Well there is proof in the pudding as I completed this modification to my 1032 John Deere snow blower and it’s the best now. Throws snow and slushy snow 20-25 feet, and does NOT clog the shoot. The John Deere has 4 impellers so from watching another Utuber he only put the rubber flaps on two impellers instead of all four. WORKS great! I picked up a two pack of 3-M brand rubber anti slip tread material from Tractor Supply for $10.00 these were 4 inches wide by 12 inches long. After drilling two 5/16 inch holes in each of the opposite impellers and secured with 5/16 inch bolts fender washers and self lock nuts all went smooth. Total cost was $12.56 about thirty minutes to complete the project. Wish I had completed this years ago………..
Thanks for the tractor supply idea. I've been looking for an ideal piece of rubber to do this on!
I'm kicking myself for selling a 1032 I picked up 😢
How thick was the anti slip tread?
THICKNESS WAS 1/4 INCH AS THE TREAD HAD DIAMOND SHAPED THICK DESIGNS ON THE SURFACE.
I never even used my blower yet, but after seeing so many of these videos, I decided to add the belting to my impellers also. There was about a 3/8" gap between the blades and the housing so I'm sure it will work better than stock. It runs smooth and doesn't make any noise and doesn't make the engine work any harder. I mounted them tight against the housing, so they will need to "seat" in like piston rings. I sprayed the inside of the housing with silicone spray to lube it a bit. I ran it for about 15 minutes and now it's good to go!
First I rotated the impeller to locate the narrowest gap to housing measurement. Then I used this measurement to locate the rubber wipes (kit) on all four of the impeller blades. This I figured would reduce un-necessary wear on the housing where the rubber wipes come into contact with it and it will wear pretty quickly as it breaks in. Has certainly improved the performance of it's blowing capability with minimal housing wear. Your videos are always very informative and thank you for demonstrating in detail this great modification.
Great video. I have done this to my last few snow blowers. Works great. Will even throw the wet slushy snow without getting clogged. I used a cheap mudflap from Prinessauto and cut 3 pieces to fit each impeller arm. I never had the metal plate so I used big washers.
Such a great idea! Your instructions are easy and most valuable. Thanks.
Great vid. Only thing I did differently was to use a step drill bit. It makes drilling the holes 10 times faster.
I even used my old cordless drill, and the step bit was through the impeller blade in about 5 seconds on each hole.
I’d highly recommend using a quality step bit like the DeWalt.
I did this to the landlords older snowblower. I used some old cut up bike tires. He never noticed the modification, but said it sounded different. Decided to ignore it. But was surprised at how well it was working. Until I finally smiled and told him. Days later. He was amused.
Perfect ! ... we just got 81” wet, heavy ‘ paste ‘ up here in Buffalo . My 10hp. 28” blower was useless after the first foot fell . Can’t wait to do this !!!
Hey South Towner, I’m in Cheektowaga. My blower froze up to so I used Rainex pump sprayer to coat inside chute. Temporary fixed it.
This guy’s squeegee solution seems like it would strain the engine. I hope you post your results and findings. I’m curious.
@@patriciaterranova1074 It's not straining the engine at all or it would drop the RPM's like when it gets overloaded with snow and stalls out...
@steveleisten1189 I did this mod to my 10-28 Toro and it helped greatly.
I did this to my 5HP craftsman, and I would say it will rival any 8hp snowblower.
I have a old Murray snowblower. I made my own Impeller modification. I bought the piece of metal with holes and a mud flap. The Murray snowblower has a hole in the Impeller so no need to drill a hole. Works great but didn't have heavy snow last year to test it on wet snow.
Go to Fleet Farm and buy the heavy "bailer belt" @ $7 for a 7" x 12" piece and use self tappers to hold it in place. No need for the backing plate. I always make this modification whenever I buy a "new" used blower.
@@michaelbeckman1794 Thanks for the info. I installed mud flaps on mine. If they don't do a good job I will buy bailer belt.
Nuts need to be on the other side of the impeller otherwise you're going to get build up on the hardware.
You are correct, Adam.
I did it to my troybilt 2410 in 2014 after i bought it new the first time i used it the snow was wet and kept clogging. So i searched recommendations on the Tube for a remedy. I made my own with supplies from tractor supply and haven't looked back! The closest thing to injecting steroids into your snowblower! And throws almost twice as far. 💯💯💯 Ps, i used conveyor belt material which is a reinforced type rubber, and small nyloc nuts n bolts. Never an issue. I have other guys confront me why my budget friendly snowblower is so impressive! Lol
Did this to my 25 year old YardMaster, this past summer. Today we got 3 inches of heavy wet snow. Couldn't wait to try it out. Before, I would have been stopping constantly to clean the chute out. Today, I did have to slow the forward travel so the impeller could keep pace. Perfect(?) no, but it moved that heavy wet stuff. As in the video, I put the paddles up to the housing, and heard the same clacking noise, as the rubber hit on the heads of internal bolts. By the time I did the sidewalks (5' X 160') plus two driveways there was no noise. I also cut the rubber and metal backing plates in half.
I had a simplicity in line blower two stage snow blower from the 70s it had these large rubber paddles and I'll tell for a machine with only a six horse engine it would chuck that snow 50 feet or more. On the machines I use similar to yours Ive found a good slathering with a waterproofing spray at the beginning of the season and some touch up between the snow won't stick on anything and I spray the whole machine inside and out I use Camp Dry water proofing spray works pretty good on the machine and my Carhartts as well.😁👍
So simple yet so effective. ❄️
Maybe use a titanium or cobalt drill bit. Looked liked you used a steel bit?
Great video.... Jus got a kit for my 15YO 30" Yardmachine that has a good 1/2" gap!! Not to worried about any rubbing or smoke cuz its jus break in procedure and it's winter here so I'll be able to test it out asap. 😁❄️
I have a very similar snowblower and I now see why you put the bolts like you did. Because of curve in blade only way I can tighten it too.
Just a suggestion to the dyi people...use cobalt drills they will cut like butter. Nice video thank you!
Great input!!👊
That discharge chute is quite short compared to most modern blowers.
That might be worth looking into as well.
I did this with pieces of conveyor belt and it works great. Another thing to do is get a bottle of ceramic car spray and spray the auger area and blower two or three times as well as the chute and the wet snow will go much farther and not jamb up. it will also stop rocks from getting stuck between the blower and case. The rubber pieces are more pliable and conform to the case shape better than the hard ones. The spray also works on a riding mower under the deck and inside of the chute.
If you use self tapping screws it is much easier than thightening those bolts. I have used mine for years and they do not come loose.
The kid actually came with self tapping fasteners
What a good kid
One suggestion would be to turn your bolts around. The less material you have sticking out the more easily snow will clear from the working side of the impellor. Carriage bolts would be even better.
I've been doing this for several years but I never buy these impeller kits. Just go to your local Fleet Farm or comparable place and you can buy "bailer belt", 7" wide, for $7 and use #12 self tapping screws. You can make 12 paddles/scrapers, for less than $2 each. You don't need the metal backing plate. I have 4 blowers of various HP and size and the modifications work on all of them.
OK, I have seen my fair share about this. If you think that this is the solution for all the clogging, you're wrong. Yes, it will help, however, only to a certain point. If the snow is wet and heavy, it will clogg and there is nothing you can do. I have done those "rubber jobs" way before internet and youtube and as I said, it works, but only to a certain point. If the snow becomes too heavy to "fly" out, nothing will work anymore and you have to clean it out by hand.
Works great for me! If the snow is too wet and heavy you gotta take smaller bites and go slower!
I did this a few years ago from a different video, it was throwing water from puddles, its an awesome must mod.
Another tip to get the snow to blow out off the machine better - and help prevent rust!
Go to local auto supply store,and buy the cheapest spray-on car wax they have.
Spray down the entire insideof the snow intake area, then the chute, and just to make it neater, the outside of the snowbwers intake area and transmissin cover (not the engine)!!!!
You don't even have to wipeit all down to make the machine "shine" like you would do a car - just coat the metal with wax and it'd do the job of making the snow not stick and move faster, thus farther.
Farmhand hodgepodge. There's a whole dichotomy to snowblower engineering - you've added weight to the impeller that affects the torque of the engine not designed for the additional stress. Snow has a physics all its own meaning it has bulk along with the weight of throwing snow. You can't say "no more clogging" because it isn't the impeller's design causing snow to clog the chute! Heavy wet snow due to temp change weighs the snow down close to a slush state, thus it's more advantageous to coat the chute, impeller, snow shroud with silicone (Aerosole spray). By adding the rubber you've also added more impeller resistance, taxing the engine slightly more. I've been coating the interior of my snow throwers for decades without clogs - in fact when snow gets over-weighted from higher temps the chute doesn't clog as long as I have the CC's or HP of an adequate engine to throw it. If you ain't got the power to push the snow your "wiper" system won't make a difference.
OK, give me time to digest that whole explanation 👊
@JD-kg3mx Proof is in the pudding. I have used mine modified for about 3 years. I would never go back and the engine is not complaining. Also, "No More Clogging"😏
Every one of these videos I see everybody forget some major step than never unplug the coil wire going to the spark plug. I've seen the startup pretty easy. Somebody shutting their machine off, putting the rod down there to clean up the shoot and just barely bumping it and it start up. Something to think about. That'd be one of the first things I do before I stick any tools, especially my arms I've seen it first hand with a lawn mower. Somebody doing that? Trying to get something that was on the blade. They touch the blade and pushed it and it was at the right stroke inside the motor and it worked like a counterbalance shaft. Just a little bit of pressure and it just grabbed being on that right stroke and it started up. Took his fingers right off
I hear ya.
On this snowblower the drive belt to the engine was disengaged so turning the auger or impeller does not turn the engine and the ignition is also switched to off.
I know a lot of people do it but there's a lot of people that don't know how and they turn to TH-cam and other social media things to look how to do things. Even though it was done prior, it wasn't shown and people don't do it. But sometimes those belts may be disengaged, but overnight they can form a little bit of rust on the pulleys. Just enough for that belt to grab. If you grab the first stage or second stage of the snow blower and rotate it. I just hate to see somebody get hurt
Just installed an impeller kit on my 20 year old MTD. Now all we need is snow.
...mmm I did install impeller mods a few years ago . when the snow is dry = it will throw it a lot further . BUT when its wet I still get snow stuck in the chute even after spraying the chute with lube !
Thanks I got an MTD blower with those bolts also
Same here. It’s the same blower with a different sticker on it. Looking for the type of oil to use in the gearbox for the auger. If you know, please leave a reply. Thanks!
So the 4 bolts holding the chute in place protrude into the impeller housing, that's WHY theirs a gap....
A quick trick spray some Pam spray or the lesser expensive store brand and it will lubricate the rubber and the snow won’t stick either.
I modified an old machine with old-used paddles from a single stage. Threw the snow three times farther!
I did this decades ago with an old truck tire, and some scrap angle iron.
Toro here! You pay for what you get 😉
No doubt on the TORO.
But a lot of us live where we only use the machine once a year, if at all. :)
Kudos good job! Thanks
Hey, you use whatever is available to you at a reasonable cost. My piece of belt cost $7 and will make 12+ pieces. Mudflaps will make probably 36+ pieces per flap. How many impellers will you modify jn your lifetime?
If I may add.....i did this mod to both my snow blowers and it took my 2 machines almost 40 minutes to break in and quiet down.....so If you do this mod and the noise does not go away in just a few minutes like his did.....don't panic.....it will.....it just may take longer.
love your videos ragnerock
Do you have a link for the kit you used
www.ebay.com/itm/143824319298
What did you use to cut the metal backing plate to size?
At 7:00 put some cutting oil on to make it easier and save your drills
Did you ever make a video showing it working?
How come the manufactures of the Snow Blowers dont do this in the factory? To sell unclogging tools?
Lol maybe! I got an unclogging tool for sale now!
my theory is that with that small gap.....small rocks and debris that may find its way in there have less of a chance being shot out of there....maybe they are required to have that gap for that reason.??? just a thought.
limit the chances of freezing the impeller to the chute wall
Two good points above, also with no clearance it will jam on debris more easily.
Good job.. Im about to do the same mod on our Troy Bilt that looks exactly the same as your Craftsman... Have you ever changed the augers gear oil or is it a closed unit?
Not yet. It has had only slight use to this point.
I've seen where people made their own kits out of vehicle mud flaps.
nice video i noticed your impeller spins freely mine is a bit stiff to move
The impeller is connected to the auger so maybe check the auger bearings?
Could just be that your auger belt is tight which wouldn't allow it to free spin like this. It doesn't need to free spin like this when it's off, so if it's working when the machine is running it should be good.
If it isn't broke, don't fix it in short....
@@SeanBrennan007 my impeller seems to be stopping them will kick in again and work fine. This will happen on and off while I use it. Would the auger bearings be the cause?
. Make sure the belt is nice and tight, it maybe slipping.
You’d be better off with a higher quality machine ( Ariens maybe). Maine snowblower here 😁
This blower was givin to me by my father in law, it was like brand new. For my front driveway I have an Ariens 32 sno thro from the mid 70's and it is a beast!!👍
@@daveraymond2265 👍🏻 personally I don’t like the products Craftsman have come out with in the last 30 yrs or so
what kit did you buy?
IMPELLER KIT 3 BLADES FOR SNOW BLOWER MODIFIES 2 STAGES MACHINE 3/8" HD
Should first remove spark plug wire ... Good video
Obvious question: If this is as good a fix as advertised, why don’t these seals come installed from the factory?
Great question!!
I don’t know 👊
The manufacturers would have to charge more to pay for the labor and parts to do this mod. He didn't accomplish this in 5 minutes and most people just compare prices when making a purchase.
Aha I see what is going on.
I just bought this honda snow blower last year and it was shooting snow pretty good.
Inside that impleller housing, whoever owned it before must have done their own modification. I was wondering why I don't see that sheeting in other same hondas having a separate metal sheeting.
The fellow had installed a metal liner there. And it gave out finally. I guess due to compromised housing. The liner finally decided to give. It got jammed and shut down everything. So I walked it out of there and now it doesn't shoot that far,
In dry snow it throws a country mile! Has not clogged on me yet.
What do you think of using gorilla glue instead of drilling to simplify install?
I think it will never hold
@@daveraymond2265 thank you
Put some oil on the bit during drilling
where did u get that kit of parts for $25.00 other than that very good video....thanks
I went to ebay and searched "snowblower impeller kit"
Did it wear down where those carriage bolts were
Yes, immediately. You can see the rounded corners of the squeegees after I ran it for a couple minutes.
Where can a person purchase this kit?
I got mine on eBay
Thank-You! Great review!@@daveraymond2265
How do I grease a mtd snowblower auger that has no grease nipples
First problem its a Craftsman 2 you can do this without buying a kit you can make this rubber a backing plate some bolts and nuts . Dry lube the the impeller housing
Those kits are like 20 bucks... Who cares
@@stevieray1828 Kits are junk all of the manufacturers should have already started to do this years ago now yep should be able go buy one already done
@@stevieray1828 I hope your kit wears out in record time
@@davidclayton6521 take it down a notch Chief... When you factor in the time to get supplies, plus gas money driving to the store, you could have just bought the kit delivered to your doorstep.
where can I get the kit at, I live in nj
I got mine on eBay
Hey, Gavino. Amazon currently has the 3-bladed 3/8" kit on sale. (From $45 to $37).
A lot of guys scoff at that price, but the rubber paddles in the kit are exactly what is needed, and the exact hardness to work the best in the application.
Plus, the hardware is real stainless. IMO, for the price the kit costs, it is worth not having to go hunt for the right hardware, having to find the just the right rubber, cut it, shape it, form the adjustable slots etc.
Like I said, this is JUST my opinion. But this kit works great.
Did this today using this tutorial. We’ll see how it works during the next snowstorm. I mounted mine too close to the housing and they got hung up on the carriage bolts that hold the chute on, causing the impeller to lock up. I had to shave the flaps down a little and then it moved. Would recommend test fitting the rubber with the carriage bolts in place first to avoid this.
Good mod
Wondering, turning the auger or impeller by hand is the same as pulling the starter rope?
No.
Maybe that gap is there for a reason?
I’m all ears!
11:38
Howdy , Thanks for the vid's I wanna throw somethin' passed ya , , , Friction cost's horsepower I did the same thing to , , ,
My Snowmaster 824 QXE ( 8 hp 24" cut ) I know it sucks , , , , 1/4" is the minimum
thanks for your time
ty, les
These squeegees wear out almost immediately against the housing so there is only friction for the first few moments, then they barely touch the housing.
NUTS! NOT BOLTS THEY ARE NUTS. Nyloc nuts to be exact.
Yeah, I know I know LOL 👊
Let’s see it throwing snow in an update.
Aaron, I will if we get snow!
I used bits from a trashed BF Goodrich
Instead of Rubber Kit, for Snow Snow blower Fan Blade Upgrade Kit, can I use Teflon?
you should have used the carage bolts on the throw side, and not the nuts. too much interference.
It seems to me that if you buy a quality snow blower you don’t need this. In the 25 plus years I have my old Troy Bilt I never had it clog. I even cleaned out in the street that the plow rolled the snow over and that stuff is very heavy and wet. I have to admit I go very slow and only take half at a time but you need to use common sense.
Is there a gap between the impeller and the impeller housing?
I know you folks mean well with these endless impeller paddle vids...but this is so wrong on so many fronts. I'm 70 now and have been working on these snowblowers since the late 60's. Here is what people seem to either disavow or simply don't comprehend: The impeller blades, whether 3 or 4 blade design, need an air-gap between the impeller housing the the blades. Typical air gap is approx 1/4 inch. The air-gap is designed in and necessary to mix housing air with the snow and push it out the chute with authority. When you damn near eliminate that gap you are adding a ton of unnecessary stress onto the impeller itself...impeller shaft...impeller drive belt. These paddle repair kits were originally designed as a stop-gap repair for impellers with heavily worn blades. Now they seem all the rage and are a huge mistake for a perfectly fine lightly worn snowblower such as yours.
All I know is my blower works way better after installing this mod and the squeegees no longer even make contact with the housing and throws the snow like ten feet farther and I have never had to grab the scooper to clear out the shoot since I’ve installed this mod. That is my experience anyway. 👊
I get all that. But what you don't understand is that inevitably there's a price to pay for this turbo-type performance. Have fun.@@daveraymond2265
The price for not doing it is frustration, aggravation and two hours to do a 30 minute job. That’s what I understand 👍
Gosh these new snowblowers are made out of such flimsy junk look at that work gear lol
Too much talk of the gap. At least 20 times. Just get on with it. Thanks for the info no matter how long it took.
Lol, sorry about that 👊
@@daveraymond2265 it's all right, you got 'er done
Interesting video but too much yackety yack. Get to the point.
I hear ya 👊
Where to get this kit?
Amazon