I reckon that a drag challenge using the cheap as chips Tamiya DT-03 as a base would be fun. I had an idea that if someone started a Facebook page where folk could post their own times from their own location would maybe tempt people into having a go. Rc drag racing just isn't popular enough in the uk for folk to buy a dedicated rc car, modify it and then travel up and down the country to organized events. But hopping up a DT-03 and blasting it up and down a flat piece of tarmac in your own town would maybe catch on.
This series is based on the 5-series platform of trucks and buggies. There’s a huge commonality of parts across the currently available models and you can also use most B5 and T5 parts. The DR10 has a long chassis like the SCT but shorter buggy-length arms, turnbuckles, and drive shafts. A conversion to SC10 spec would require quite a few spare parts and while it can be made easily I don’t think it makes sense. Converting it to one of the SW models (LT10 or DK10) would be a lot less work and parts purchases: just a shorter SR10 chassis, new wheels, and a body.
I let a female friend have a go on a 1/5th scale FG Beetle back in 2005 and she hit her fiance's Ford Focus going flat out. It took 4 of us to lift the Focus up enough to get the Beetle out from under it, and the Focus had a whacking great dent in the sill (rocker). The Beetle was fine. Couple of creases in the body, but nothing actually broken. Think it was still running when we got it out.
Someone already mentioned it’s a longer chassis than my RB10 but looks like all the same parts/specs, same as the Pro2. The RB10 was slooooooowwww time it with a calendar slow and followed a suggestion to put in a 21t pinion and it’s pretty fun now, just run it on 2s. The Pro2 out of the box was impressive, just fine out of the box. I’d say if you took off the wheelie bar you’d have a great little drift/street car, still worth having fun with outside the straight line racing aspect. Another great video!!
I bought a DR10 kit and built it into an RB10 with a limited number of parts: SR10 shock towers, RB10 rear body mount and bumper, SR10 chassis, and a set of shocks (you really only need shorter shocks for the front). Oh, and a set of B6 ballcups to get the offset ones for steering. The kit comes without a body and fits B4 bodies (+8 mm fits better) or a Tamiya Sand Viper body for classic looks.
The platform is basically the same as the SC10 short course trucks (and similar to newer LT10 trucks). Wheels and tires, ditch the roll bar and you should be able to find a bumper that fits from an LT10 front and rear and you’ve got a short course truck.
They were discontinued. You can still get a kit but not RTR. They went on sale last year here in the US and you could get them for $180 RTR until they sold out. They are actually really fun if you enjoy drag racing. I grew up drag racing so I loved it and still have a few drag cars. We race on an 1/10 scale 1/4 mile track which is 132ft. If you have a sky rc gnss, set it for 132 ft and you can do test runs to see what your speed and time is. Stock rear tires are ok but pick up a set of proline reactions and it really wakes up. Also, anything sensored helps majorly! Tuning plays a major role with these. Especially out of the box. Spring and shock oil weight matter a lot. Gearing is key. I got 2.3 @ 50mph out of my stock DR10 in 132ft if I can remember correctly. It's been a while since I had one stock 😂
If you had the sky RC GPS Bluetooth thing you would get the point of the car a bit more. You'd time your 0-60ft or 0-to max speed and try to beat it by tweaking the car rinse and repeat then modify and repeat which gets you involved more an really tests your set up knowledge. Once you start chasing numbers it pulls you in more.
I've been considering getting one of these and trying to do exactly what you said. Rather than just bashing about you have the challenge of tweaking it to achieve some sort of goal. I've been doing the very same thing with my Tamiya dt03, but without a SkyRc data logger my improvements are purely subjective. I'm sure if someone set up a Facebook page where you could post your times quite a few dt03 owners would probably have a go. RC drag racing in the UK just isn't popular enough for events to be held up and down the country, but posting your own efforts on a Facebook page would maybe tempt folk to take part.
Gavin, I have one of those. I go out to run it. I run it in a couple car parks when they are empty. trying to get quick times & keep a straight line and over 132ft is a challenge. I know that I live near you so if you ever want a drag race let me know. it's not as easy as you'd think. my best 2.7sec 51mph.👍👍
Swapping an RB10 chassis and body is the cheapest route. A SCT would mean arms, CVDs, body mounts, bumpers, shocks, and body. Build the RB10 and go race the Popalong guys at the turf track. 😅
it's a sc10 pro 2 with rb10 suppension and sr10 shocks, rear shock tower. i put proline rims with the hubs you can change out and put stampede front hub adapter on the front and slash rear hub adapter on the rear making it sc specs again without changing anything
Rear bumper and front bumper.will need to be bought. Plus the front piece that sirs on top for the body mount set up.. The front and back arms are different as well. This can be turned into a short course truck..with the above changes
The fun of these is a standing start over 132ft, no prep drag racing. Not designed for driving around a circuit. Car Park Drag Racing - it's another RC Rabbit Hole!
In Canada this thing is pushing $800. Total ripoff. I'd rather get a base model Senton 2wd and put a fat Castle motor and ESC in it. At least for me, because I already have Arrma stuff, it make more sense because it's all interchangeable so spare parts are sprare parts for everything.
It seems like you have never seen an actual drag race before. I think you should watch some. Then drive that car the way you see them do it. You can not drive a drag car the way you drive a drift car or a road racing car. It is meant to go in a strait line from a dead stop for a given distance. It is not meant to have a high top speed. That is just a byproduct of getting from 0 to the end of the track as fast as possible.
A slow drag car based on a short course truck? That's an RC I absolutely cannot understand. I've got Tamiya Junkers in the back of the shed that would do better.
Yeah, but when you throw some power at them, they become 2.5 second rippers with nothing more than a 100 dollar system found in the Losi 22s. They become RTR drag class monsters with very little work.
They are purely built for the American market if you watch mark Santa-Maria he runs a club dedicated to these drag racers in car parks (something you find very hard to find in the uk without the local little hitler poking their nose at what you’re doing🤬) with all the associated equipment drag lights etc and the bodies are deliberately designed to look like that! the actual 1/1 drags are just big shells on a chassis that look boxy and over the top!
I run Team Losi! Get a slipper clutch eliminater & a bag of gears to play around with!
I reckon that a drag challenge using the cheap as chips Tamiya DT-03 as a base would be fun.
I had an idea that if someone started a Facebook page where folk could post their own times from their own location would maybe tempt people into having a go.
Rc drag racing just isn't popular enough in the uk for folk to buy a dedicated rc car, modify it and then travel up and down the country to organized events.
But hopping up a DT-03 and blasting it up and down a flat piece of tarmac in your own town would maybe catch on.
With just a few upgrades I turned this into a budget brushless short course truck and it has been going for almost 3 years now.
This series is based on the 5-series platform of trucks and buggies. There’s a huge commonality of parts across the currently available models and you can also use most B5 and T5 parts.
The DR10 has a long chassis like the SCT but shorter buggy-length arms, turnbuckles, and drive shafts. A conversion to SC10 spec would require quite a few spare parts and while it can be made easily I don’t think it makes sense.
Converting it to one of the SW models (LT10 or DK10) would be a lot less work and parts purchases: just a shorter SR10 chassis, new wheels, and a body.
I let a female friend have a go on a 1/5th scale FG Beetle back in 2005 and she hit her fiance's Ford Focus going flat out.
It took 4 of us to lift the Focus up enough to get the Beetle out from under it, and the Focus had a whacking great dent in the sill (rocker).
The Beetle was fine. Couple of creases in the body, but nothing actually broken. Think it was still running when we got it out.
LOL, I bet she was popular after that!
Someone already mentioned it’s a longer chassis than my RB10 but looks like all the same parts/specs, same as the Pro2. The RB10 was slooooooowwww time it with a calendar slow and followed a suggestion to put in a 21t pinion and it’s pretty fun now, just run it on 2s. The Pro2 out of the box was impressive, just fine out of the box. I’d say if you took off the wheelie bar you’d have a great little drift/street car, still worth having fun with outside the straight line racing aspect. Another great video!!
I bought a DR10 kit and built it into an RB10 with a limited number of parts: SR10 shock towers, RB10 rear body mount and bumper, SR10 chassis, and a set of shocks (you really only need shorter shocks for the front). Oh, and a set of B6 ballcups to get the offset ones for steering.
The kit comes without a body and fits B4 bodies (+8 mm fits better) or a Tamiya Sand Viper body for classic looks.
The platform is basically the same as the SC10 short course trucks (and similar to newer LT10 trucks). Wheels and tires, ditch the roll bar and you should be able to find a bumper that fits from an LT10 front and rear and you’ve got a short course truck.
They were discontinued. You can still get a kit but not RTR. They went on sale last year here in the US and you could get them for $180 RTR until they sold out.
They are actually really fun if you enjoy drag racing. I grew up drag racing so I loved it and still have a few drag cars. We race on an 1/10 scale 1/4 mile track which is 132ft. If you have a sky rc gnss, set it for 132 ft and you can do test runs to see what your speed and time is. Stock rear tires are ok but pick up a set of proline reactions and it really wakes up. Also, anything sensored helps majorly!
Tuning plays a major role with these. Especially out of the box. Spring and shock oil weight matter a lot. Gearing is key. I got 2.3 @ 50mph out of my stock DR10 in 132ft if I can remember correctly. It's been a while since I had one stock 😂
Yes a short course truck conversion would be a lot more fun and not that difficult to do.
If you had the sky RC GPS Bluetooth thing you would get the point of the car a bit more. You'd time your 0-60ft or 0-to max speed and try to beat it by tweaking the car rinse and repeat then modify and repeat which gets you involved more an really tests your set up knowledge. Once you start chasing numbers it pulls you in more.
I've been considering getting one of these and trying to do exactly what you said. Rather than just bashing about you have the challenge of tweaking it to achieve some sort of goal. I've been doing the very same thing with my Tamiya dt03, but without a SkyRc data logger my improvements are purely subjective.
I'm sure if someone set up a Facebook page where you could post your times quite a few dt03 owners would probably have a go.
RC drag racing in the UK just isn't popular enough for events to be held up and down the country, but posting your own efforts on a Facebook page would maybe tempt folk to take part.
Gavin, I have one of those. I go out to run it. I run it in a couple car parks when they are empty. trying to get quick times & keep a straight line and over 132ft is a challenge. I know that I live near you so if you ever want a drag race let me know. it's not as easy as you'd think. my best 2.7sec 51mph.👍👍
Swapping an RB10 chassis and body is the cheapest route. A SCT would mean arms, CVDs, body mounts, bumpers, shocks, and body. Build the RB10 and go race the Popalong guys at the turf track. 😅
The protection is only on the top to stop box rubbing on the roof of the car
It looks a lot like the buggy chassis too. You'd just need the rear A arms, turnbuckles and drive shafts to get it back to buggy/sct spec?
The chassis is the longer one on the DR10 and Pro2 SC10.
It can be swapped for the shorter SR10 / RB10 chassis.
it's a sc10 pro 2 with rb10 suppension and sr10 shocks, rear shock tower. i put proline rims with the hubs you can change out and put stampede front hub adapter on the front and slash rear hub adapter on the rear making it sc specs again without changing anything
Nice on-board camera footage!
Can u do a review on the 2wd sct from PR Racing ?
I’ll look into it 👍🏻
Liking Rebecca's sandals Gavin 😉
Rear bumper and front bumper.will need to be bought. Plus the front piece that sirs on top for the body mount set up..
The front and back arms are different as well.
This can be turned into a short course truck..with the above changes
it looks like its discontinued in the usa that might explain the lhs discount
I think they're switching to Mid motor layout for drag cars.
The body is based on a 1970's Plymouth Duster
Is it worth it as a parts doner car then?
I would think so, that or I could turn it into a short course truck I guess
I swapped the chassis and body and made it into an rb10.
Not my thing really. Chassis was interesting though.
My Subaru Impreza hit the tire of a parked vehicle also, it Survived but, body is scratched and dented lol
Fun video RcKicks!
I use mine for regular street bashing .
Don't sell because they are boring, the UK does not have flat long roads to use.
Seems like a cool car...i am sure with some simple mods it could be a 55 mph drag car
Makin me dizzy dude 😂😂
The fun of these is a standing start over 132ft, no prep drag racing. Not designed for driving around a circuit. Car Park Drag Racing - it's another RC Rabbit Hole!
Same chassis as my rb10
Nope it’s longer.
@@Glocktologist wow didn't know that thanks mate
The electronics are worth it alone.
That's what I was thinking when I see it priced to sell.
I have Losi s22 drag car, is fun as DR10, but DR10 is more friendly to noobs. Because it is under power helps you understand the basics of drag racing
Seems shite - waste of money a slow drag car that can’t do much else
For the price it’s a win in my books if you’re into drag. 🎉
So all of the peoples who don't live on the wrong side land can't get it half price....
In Canada this thing is pushing $800. Total ripoff. I'd rather get a base model Senton 2wd and put a fat Castle motor and ESC in it. At least for me, because I already have Arrma stuff, it make more sense because it's all interchangeable so spare parts are sprare parts for everything.
I love muscle cars but drag racing rc cars just seems so boring
Drift car next?😅
It seems like you have never seen an actual drag race before. I think you should watch some. Then drive that car the way you see them do it. You can not drive a drag car the way you drive a drift car or a road racing car. It is meant to go in a strait line from a dead stop for a given distance. It is not meant to have a high top speed. That is just a byproduct of getting from 0 to the end of the track as fast as possible.
Should you not have a dress on. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 For this drag episode.
The class was based on using old slashes, then the big manufacturers got involved
A slow drag car based on a short course truck? That's an RC I absolutely cannot understand. I've got Tamiya Junkers in the back of the shed that would do better.
It is closer to a db 10 buggy
Yeah, but when you throw some power at them, they become 2.5 second rippers with nothing more than a 100 dollar system found in the Losi 22s. They become RTR drag class monsters with very little work.
They're mostly based on short course trucks..
You definitely don't know how to drive a drag car LOL
They are purely built for the American market if you watch mark Santa-Maria he runs a club dedicated to these drag racers in car parks (something you find very hard to find in the uk without the local little hitler poking their nose at what you’re doing🤬) with all the associated equipment drag lights etc and the bodies are deliberately designed to look like that! the actual 1/1 drags are just big shells on a chassis that look boxy and over the top!