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Whay i have virus detected if i download that?

Same trick is put the part in your slicer, make a copy, then move your copy slightly offset forward or back to thicken, or in this case increase scale slightly.

Couldn't you just connect the Pi to the printer and then flash the firmware you built on it? I am fairly certain that is how I had done it last time...?

Do you have any recommendations/suggestions for starting speeds to runthe S1 with klipper?

Hey Mike, I have been following your videos on the build and can't thank you enough for all the work that goes into them. I am anxiously waiting for the rest of them! My 2.4 is almost identical to yours, few minor changes, such as I used the CNC parts kit, my main board is an octopus pro, and I have the U2C for canbus. I tried using the link in the video to set some time with you on a video call, but the link is giving 404 error. Keep up the good work!

This is a great video and spreadsheet, thanks! So using your spreadsheet how would I use this to push the limits? I did 5 to 30 with PLA at 210, measuring and using your spreadsheet it gave me a 26, Dragon HF hotend. But because the print was so tall it was starting to bow. Do I just uncheck the box to turn off the max I set and change the specs in orca to like 20 and 40, then adjust the start number in the spreadsheet to match, and use the measument I get?

You say at around 10:00 that you'd generally do some tests to help you determine actual values to use for speeds & accelerations. What types of tests would you do and how would you use the results to help you determine actual values to set?

You made quite a few parameter changes and you really didn't explain why you made them. Can you please give a bit more info about why you tweaked these parameters? How did you determine the values that you chose?

Reading from the Github page doesn't give us as you put it a ( Dive into this video to explore exciting new features and improvements. From enhanced slicing to streamlined workflows, I'll guide you through everything you need to know about this latest official release) you only talk 1 new feature that still has a bug on final release. The rest of the improvements you don't even mention.

Did you root the sonic pad to get the adaptive? KAMP?

We now require cat tax you know :P

Hi Mike, thanks for covering this. I honestly think the new PA has a bug. I printed a few and couldn't really tell the diff compared to previous version. every single line seems pretty much the same. if you got a discord, I can share it. and also the max flowrate is rather confusing to me. I've set 23 under the filament setting but it kept printing 7. 242

I have upged from 1.4 to 2.2.0 and now the K1 Max prints almost twice as fast as before, without adjusting to the profiles. Quality is the same, I wonder how much time I have wasted in the past....😮

My biggest question is how to interpret the PA Pattern print out. I got 16 and 5000 at the bottom left hand corner on my K1 Max with PLA. The pattern in the chevrons seems to be cleanest at .03. So what should that tell me? Thanks!

since update to 2.2.0 will not connect to sonic pad i can connect via webpage no problem so it's not the sonic pad....i input the ip address and it will not find it

So what did the print show you? What PA value to you settle on or further calibration cause when i look at the print you did I saw blobbing in all the values so im curious what the next steps you did. Thanks for all your vids and tutorials

Great set of videos, thanks. I'm a FlashForge 5M Pro user and am wondering if anyone knows what specific functionality is supported in the latest Orca version? At least initially it seems that Wifi printing & camera access weren't supported (but it seems they may be now). Are there other 5M Pro users out there that might know more details about this? I know there's a specific Orca-FlashForge version but concerned about going down that path since it's unlikely that FlashForge will keep them in-sync as new Orca versions are released. Appreciate any info anyone has to share.

an audio interface would help you out tons for these videos. great content regardless. thank you

If possible to apply .8 Nozzle congratulations for Ender 3 v2 printer

Doing my PA tests for the new beta setting, but how do you suggest testing it for bridges and overhangs?

hi there did your complete video ender 3 worx but i installed the skr mini and changed the screen cable i the tried uploading software and although it comes on if you want to enter into a selection it just reboots it shows readings on the screen and everything but nothing works just so you are in the loop its a ender3 v2 with blt

Czy w nowym firmware do Creality K1C 1.3.3.36 są jakieś istotne zmiany, o których warto wspomnieć? Wiesz coś? Mało jest o tym informacji w sieci.

Much better than Cura's issue reporting, I was in the group for reporting bugs with release candidates, the people receiving the emails were not even aware they were receiving reports from beta testers! and sent back advice to fix the issues, they usually implied user error, which was not the case, I stopped my involvement.

How to get the "adaptive bed mesh" section under basic information from the printer settings? I don't even have this settings, only adding start g-code doesn't work..

Arent there tons of profiles for the whole ender line ?

What about restore?

I see you did use some.

How come you didn't use any loctite?

can this fit ender 3 oregnal stealthburner mount?

2:20 Will the pattern angle matter when it's the 4:48 the interface pattern that will actually make contact with the model?

Hi!, thank you for the video, i think github repository is out of date, many files are not found and printer.cfg fail becouse not found it.

Hiya Mike. I presume you set the PA to 0 on the filament setting? Or untick the box? (ORCA).

fil not working for dowlaoden

Great tutorial. But I. Have a problem with the printer. When starts to print, the 2 lines are okay, but the print is moved by the head of the printer and I don't know why.

wondering if you could tell me something here. I followed your method here, exported it to the slicer, printed it and it literally crumbled as I removed supports. so I looked and it was hollow inside. So i go back into meshmixer and found make solid, accepted it exported it and the same thing its still hollow in the middle. What am I miss here?

The motor power cables go from the motor cable to the main power (all on the mainboard, thats why they are short), and that ground to the tnut isnt going to be good enough. Id drill a hole in the frame and use a self tapper to really get a good ground. Youll need a clean surface, ie no paint. Over all nice job. Thats a really nice wiring kit

if you have the LDO kit and are going right to USB you have an entry for the leviathan and one for the nighthawk in the config, both must be right. You may have to wait until more assembly is done before finalizing mainsail.

screen lights up but no text can you help please

thanks for calculating sheet I really apreciate it

hola, es necesario cambiar el toolhead? puedo usar el hotend de serie ?

Pls share the link for firmware download Thanks

Great video.. I have a similar question: For instance there is already an Anycubic Vyper profile, however it is only for a .4 nozzle size, what needs to be changed from the .4 nozzle profile to utilize a .6 nozzle on the same printer.

Just stopping in to say thanks for that spreadsheet! I’ve been manually calculating my flow rates this entire time like a total goon 😂 My extruder actually came out to exactly 50mm so I must’ve won the lottery.

Thanks for this video, I've always found Github a bit confusing to use but your video explains it really well.

Finally, someone who realizes PuTTY hasn't been needed since the early Windows 10 days!

HI, my name is Francesco, and I am a 16-year-old guy passionate about 3D printing. About a year ago, I bought my Elegoo Neptune 4, an amazing printer that works very well, and I am happy with the purchase. Unfortunately, every time I turn the printer on and off, the Z-offset changes, and I have to recalibrate it manually. This frustrates me because I’m forced to make a lot of clicks to level the bed. So, I started searching online for a solution, but the automatic calibration either involved a load cell mounted on the nozzle or external hardware that was complicated to install. So, I came up with a software idea that could automate the whole process. Here’s how it works: You need to know the offset between the 3 axes, which is the distance between the nozzle tip and the probe for automatic bed leveling. You tell the printer to move to a coordinate near the center of the bed, take a measurement with the probe, and save it. Then, the head should move to the same coordinates but adding the previously recorded offset in X and Y, take another measurement, and save it as well. After the printer has returned to the previous coordinates, it needs to take the two previously saved data points and insert them into the following formula (the first measurement = A and the second = B, the Z-offset probe is the offset between the nozzle tip and the probe on the Z-axis): (Z-offset probe + (X)) - (Y) + 0.1mm. The final instruction to give the printer is to set the current Z-axis coordinate as the Z-offset. Unfortunately, I don’t know how to program in G-code, so if you think this software might work, would you be willing to help me write it? (If you think it won’t work, could you explain why?) I hope I was clear. Thank you for your attention, I’ll be waiting for your response to hear your opinion on this matter. Best regards, Francesco Thank you for your attention

i just want to say thank you for making this comprehensive build guide for the Formbot kit. i have been following along and it has made everything so much easier. have you figured out the sb2209 ebb 2040 canbus setup? i have been fighting with it for weeks and at this point i have more time in failing to get canbus up and running then i do in actually building the entire 2.4 350 kit. im losing my mind with it so i finally broke down and ordered all the stuff to just run wiring to the toolhead until i can figure out canbus or until someone has a single consolidated guide on how to do it. again thank you and i hope to see your next video soon.

why didnt you talk about acceleration under the speed tab?

Your sound was fine so you need not worry about it. The text captions on the screen interfered with what you were showing. Good detailed explanation of the installation process.