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I dont have that directory when i tried to install that macro😂 howd u get that klipper_config?

Really helpful, thanks!

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Just use one wall on the cube. Problem solved. No need to waste all that filament

That’s so you can mount a Pi right on back

Do you have a video on the order in which to do these calibrations? Thx

Dear Bryan, I did what you showed. It looks good, but do you have a user manual, because I can't get the printer head adjusted low enough. Thanks a lot, Jacques metzemaekers Netherlands.

What's the improvement? Both look... not good 🤦

This produces very unrealistic values. During real print tests, I experience skipping at 45k accel, this recommends 80k!

This comes up with crazy recommendations, are they a little optimistic?

How did U wire the RGB cable from to the tool plate connector? There is no supplied cable. Do you know the connector type on the tool plate ...some say it's Molex Picoblade (3pin) ... The 3 lead cables supplied with the Hermit Crab is fitted onto a 4 pin connector that does not fit into the 3pin connector on the tool plate.

Thanks Mike for this, just now I have managed to watch the video, but I have fixed my issue from your Email. I appreciate your help. Picked up a Qidi Q1 Pro for $30(!!) with an MCU communication error. Ended up the head PCB - the rear board - was shorted. $36 later it's working great. It is way better than a Creality K1.

I am having such a hard time after installing Klipper via Sonic Pad and XYZ linear rails. For some reason, I wasn't able to get my Ender 3 S1 Pro to complete a bed mesh; I kept getting a "move out of range" error. I figured that since the new rail install, the hot end must have shifted slightly to one side. When trying to perform a bed mesh, it just won't reach the final point on the right and gives me the error. So, I thought for sure your video would help to recalibrate the location. However, I've tried to modify the X stepper position max to give the head some more play to the right, despite having more physical room to move, and no luck. I've made sure that the position min and max on the X stepper is set to 7 mm on both, since that's where the limit switch is triggered. I thought the X offset was perfect, following your video. The only thing I did differently was open up a pen and dipped the probe tip in the ink so it leaves a perfect mark on the tape, giving me a solid mark. I've tried changing that X offset number so that it places the probe closer to the left edge of the build plate. I went back and forth with the mesh min and mesh max to find the sweet spot to allow me to get that last bed mesh point to no avail. It seems there's something else posing a boundary to these settings I tried that just isn't allowing me to move the head closer to the right to complete the mesh. any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated... should i consider doing a klipper reinstall ? ive spent so many hours diagnosing this i dont even wanna say how many hours lol thank you,

I have a voron 2.4 with Hall Sensors. the Auto Script was not Working so i wanna try Auto Speed. Does it work with Hall sensors? Hope u know that

Before I calibrate YOLO, do I have to do pass 1 and pass 2 first?

I was wondering, is there away to adjust support height? I noticed with my default settings it makes the bottom support like 50 percent tall to match the side support. I figured thats a waste of fillament. now your probaly saying why use infill support in middle? its becuase I have a cube in the middle. so instead of making the bottom support layers half the size the of model, is there away to make the bottom supports like height of cube in middle and the side suppoty heightfrom build plate to that section?

Excelentes resultados, muy buen video

how do you get the camera to work on orca slicer ? this helped me connect but i view camera 😒😒

When doing this on a Bambu A1 should you turn off automatic Flow Dynamics Calibration before you print? Not sure if keeping FDC enabled will reduce the effectiveness of this test. I just printed this on the A1 with FDC ON and really all the test pieces are pretty much the same (some very minor differences but hard to pick the "smoothest"). Going to print again with it off to see. But in general, should you reduce any automatic calibrations when doing these tests? And is it best to follow the set of calibrations from top to bottom or can they be done in any order? Also, if doing the tests top to bottom, should you modify your filament profile (based on each result) as you work through the tests?

Excellent video sir, you help me a lot! Moving on to the bed calibration video :) Thanks for your job!!

Hi Mike. It's been a while, we talked back in November. Have a question on how best to do this Max Flow calculation when working with faster printers & filament. I just got a Bambu A1 Combo (love it!) to go with my FlashForge 5M Pro and am printing with some Elegoo High Speed PETG & PLA+ which can support up to 600 mm/s. Totally. understand results probably won't be great at very high speeds but would be interesting to experiment to see the speed it can maintain. Going back & forth between Orca and Bambu Studio. Definitely like Orca better and it's frustrating that Studio took out most of the Orca calibrations. So trying to my new filament (actually all my filament) calibrated in Orca and then I push those values over to my profiles in Studio. So I'm currently printing at 0.2 mm layer height with a 0.42 line width using a 0.4 Hardened Steel nozzle. So, using the formula, if Max Flow is set to 50 that should allow a max print speed of just under 600 mm/s. So when trying to run through this for faster setups, what should your min/max ranges be set for? High would obviously be 50 but not sure what to set as the low value. Appreciate any guidance. Thanks.

Thanks for info. Thanks to your video I finally got the Cura Thumbnails working for my BIQU printer!

Hello. I installed the Sonic pad on my ender 3 s1 plus. The Sonic pad has the latest firmware. The first day the printer worked great, but the next day the problems started. The printer prints a few layers and then stops extruding, but continues printing without extruding. Sometimes it doesn't extrude right at the start. The conclusion is that I can't trust the printer to do what I told it to print. Have you ever had this case with the Sonic Pad?

Did you have to change any of your off-set for auto-level or to recenter the print(s)?

Thanks for this video. One of the issues with the Tronxy X5SA is the main board's chipset. The examples on the Klipper site are for the older F103 but in late 2022 it is the F446. I was able to remake the firmware with the correct settings by looking at the desciption for their CRUX1 printer.

just FYI, ip:8000 is for the live camera stream

Probably would have not figured this out without a ton of frustration. Thanks for a great guide!

I just downloaded orca. Following your instructions I got to adding a printer and mine isn’t listed (CR10 smart). Plus I have done many upgrades, btt sk3 mini, tft35 display, micro Swiss hot end and direct drive extruder. I was wondering what I should use. Btw, using marlin. Thank you

For those running it on ender 3 or any other bedslinger, advice to change a few settings from default for autospeed in the file you placed the [autospeed] [auto_speed] axis: x, y ; One or multiple of `x`, `y`, `diag_x`, `diag_y`, `z` margin: 100 ; How far away from your axes to perform movements

In the very beginning you click calibration, but I can't seem to click on it. I can see it, but it is grayed out. Any idea why?

How do you select where the seam is located?

This is super helpful! I have a question though, when do my max flow test I get a number that seems great, last time I got 12, which according to another calculation means I should be able to print near 120. but if I enter speeds even above 80 I start to see under extrusion. Are my calculations wrong or am I entering the speeds wrong and my max flow is actually lower than I had initially thought

Once you have volumetric flow how do you enter the speeds? I ran the flow test and got 14 for my ender. After using teaching techs speed calculator it says I should be able to print close to 200mm/s but if I got more than 60 I see bad under extrusion which to me seems like my max flow is actually closer to 5 than 14mm3/sec

I get this error not sure what to do and i can install in on the same WARNING: Retrying (Retry(total=0, connect=None, read=None, redirect=None, status=None)) after connection broken by 'SSLError(SSLEOFError(8, 'EOF occurred in violation of protocol (_ssl.c:1137)'))': /simple/pip/.... i can install on my pi woth klipper correct

Thank you for these videos, my formbot kit came in the other day and I'm going to use your videos to familiarize myself with the process as I follow the manual.

Yeah, you forgot the thermal paste on the back of the heater and in the thermistor hole... Without good thermal conductivity in both places, you're going to get poor performance... They didn't include that little silver packet for the hell of it. 🤦

Cht nozzle wIll also help. You should also try that. Pretty cheap on Ali

I think it's was this video about the layer adhesion test th-cam.com/video/PPyiACzsLWM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=u8uzujfhfLSUulbC

Maybe you should add the info that the hotend is not a original Bambulab but a knockoff, i have see tests competing the original and the knockoffs and the are differents in the layer adhesion 😮

That little pouch of GD900 thermal paste is messy but it will improve the heat transfer to increase the volumetric flow rate when applied to the heater, and it'll ensure that your nozzle temperature is accurate without overshooting when applied to the thermistor. When assembling my SV08, Sovol's open source adaptation of the Voron 2.4, I replaced the stock hot end, which is a clone of the Bambu Lab hot end, with the MicroSwiss FlowTech hot end. The upgrade was a bit easier than replacing the Sovol nozzle, which requires removing and reinstalling the heater and thermistor without damaging the fragile wires and connectors. The MicroSwiss hot end is much higher quality. The machining is gorgeous. The design is much better too. The cylindrical heater completely surrounds the hot zone for faster heat flow into the nozzle than the little heater block on one side, as in the Sovol and Bambu design. The MicroSwiss hot end allows quick cold swapping of the nozzle in one minute, one handed, with nothing but a 7 mm nut driver, with no removing and reinstalling the heater or thermistor so there's no thermal paste on my fingers.

im actually doing same mod right now to 1 of my vorons to test the bambu hotend out, great vid

What about probe scanner eg, cartographer, beacon?

Kan je terug kijken naar de camera beelden van een afgewerkt product.

Just got through both videos and looking great but I can not find your video of configuring the printer as you mentioned during the second video. Do you have a link to that? I must be just overlooking it.

thanks . you help me for start work with my new printer with kliper Tronxy veho-800

Great video very helpful I'm having a issue where when the print is done the bed doesn't lower and keeps the nozzle in the print and melts the print and I'm lost on how to fix it

Oh hey! Ive watches countless videos trying to get my artillery set up on klipper- worked with a pi zero- failed with a BTT pi, just got a pi4b to try again😂 hopefully your video has the info for me to succeed finally. Its been a 4 day struggle

My PA Pattern Test shows up for half a second and then disappears. All my settings get changed and I can’t slice the plate. Any idea what’s going on?

Is there really a lot of difference between slicers? Many times I have seen a claim that an app is a better than another or that there is a new improved release, only to discover the only real difference is the arrangement of the screen and maybe some different colours.

Good info and a process that's well explained so we can replicate this maximum volumetric flow calibration on our own printers for each of our own filaments. Keep in mind that for TPU, on many extruders, exceeding the rate at which the filament can be melted and extruded will not simply result is a little harmless slippage on the filament. The extruder gears will push the filament faster than it can melt and extrude and the excess filament will bend and pile up above the entrance to the cold side of the hot end, making a jam around the extruder gear and possibly damaging the extruder assembly. It's probably best to set a low maximum extrusion rate of 3 to 5 mm^3/s and live with the slower speed for reliable printing with TPU.