@@katherinemartinez7768 This new version is definitely an upgrade over the original, and bi-color is better than single color if you plan to mix your LED with any other light sources, so I'd get the SL60II or SL60IIBi over the older lights.
Hello! I love your detailed review on Godox lights:) Godox recently released the Sl150w Mark iii can you please let me know what are the difference between mark ii & mark iii?
I haven't tested it personally, but the Mark III has mobile app control, and I've heard they refined the internal components, but as far as I know, that's really it.
Hi, I’m looking for a budget light for filmmaking/cinematography and was wondering what softbox would work best with this light. Since I’m mainly working in small and white rooms I want the light to be as controlled as possible to reduce spill. Any recommendations for modifiers that would match this use case? Also, cheaper the better obviously because this is just a hobby of mine and I’m not doing serious productions.
I highly recommend the Glow collapsible beauty dishes. They are about half the depth of a parabolic softbox, so take up less room, and are lighter weight. They also come not only with diffusion layers, but a grid, to control light spill, which you mentioned. They come in three sizes, 34" is kind of standard, but the 25" also works very well if you want to stay as cheap and compact as possible. geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver Hope that helps!
Hi mate, super high quality video, great job! I'm kinda new to lighting, at 0:50, you mentioned it doesn't have an integrated umbrella mount... does this mean I'd need to buy a mount to fit a Godox QR-P90 90CM Softbox? I'm seriously considering picking up a Godox SL60IIBi 75W. Any thought would be great, cheers!
Thanks! That softbox is a Bowens mount, so it'll attach directly to this light no problem. The umbrella mount I mention is just a little hole with a screw to use umbrellas for diffusion. They are just a literal umbrella with a rod that you slide in and screw down so they don't slide out. The vast majority of people use softboxes like the one you mentioned, but some people like umbrellas still. Hope that helps! If you pick one up, I'd be grateful if you used my links if possible :) geni.us/godoxsl60iibi geni.us/godoxqrp90
This light comes with no accessories like the accessory you put on @4:20. What’s it called any suggestions for small no budget short films? This is the only light I found in my budget it’s $180
Which will be a better option for product videography when it comes to a second light? this one, a tube light (like the godox tl30), a small rgb light (g2 pocket ) or an led panel ( neewer pro660 rgb ).. with so many options, it gets more confusing to choose for beginners like me on a tight budget
If you have a main key light and softbox already, I would probably go for an RGB tube light. You can use it for a ton of different stuff like backlighting, accent lighting, or stuff like waving it over things for product videos, etc. I currently use the Amaran PT2c and PT4c: geni.us/amaranpt2c
I'm a graphic designer specializing in book covers and editorial illustrations. I make things and need to shoot them for my work. A photographer buddy is recommending I go with continuous lighting and a silver interior Bowens mount 3x4' softbox. I'm overwhelmed by the rabbit hole. I can't believe it's this hard to give a company my money. I want a well-built Softbox that will last. My setups are small usually no larger than shooting something I've made on poster paper. What is the best continuous light for my needs? What wattage will cover my bases? Can you recommend anything or point me anywhere? I shoot everything on a Canon 5D classic (12.8MP ftw) with a 50mm lens. At some point I'm expecting this camera to die but the shutter is so sweet I hope that's later rather than sooner.
Normally I recommend circular softboxes/beauty dishes, but in your case, I think a rectangular one will work best. If there's any reflections in your work, it will look better, and it will kind of simulate window light, which looks good for things like top down shots or book covers etc. 60 watts should be fine. You'll likely be shooting at 100% brightness with the softbox just a few feet away, but I don't foresee a problem. This light would work great, but there's a couple other options to consider: th-cam.com/video/2PbbX0HxITo/w-d-xo.html - As inexpensive as lights come, but very good output quality, and has battery support th-cam.com/video/oSmdCGmUrQ8/w-d-xo.html - Another option with battery support, as well as mobile app control Aputure always makes good stuff, so here's a 2'x3' softbox of theirs: amzn.to/49DrmE1 Glow has good stuff, and makes a LOT of different sizes, here's a 3' x 4' of theirs: amzn.to/3G153KV Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer immensely helpful. Thanks so much. Quick question: for what I describe is a 3x4' softbox overkill for a 60W lamp? Or does it matter? I noticed that Aputure doesn't make a softbox that large; their largest rectangular softbox (that you link to above) is 60x90 (why don't they make a larger one?). I guess I'm fishing for a rule or ratio between watts and softbox dimensions. Thanks for helping me navigate the rabbit hole!
I have videos on both of them, so you'll have to watch and decide for yourself :) Brightness and color accuracy they're comparable. The big difference is that the GVM light has native NP-F battery support.
Thanks! I much prefer collapsible beauty dishes to parabolic softboxes, because they are not as deep, and if you use diffusion on the front like 99% of people do, the light output is exactly the same, but with the smaller footprint. These from Glow are some of my favorites: geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver
A 100W light is only going to be 1/3 stop brighter than a 60 watt light, so the difference is negligible. If you're just lighting 1-2 people from 3-5 feet away, a 60 watt bi-color light in a 95cm soft box should do fine in a controlled environment, as long as you're shooting at typical video settings like ISO 400, f/2.8, 1/50 second shutter speed. If you want something brighter, I'd recommend going up to 150W, which will give you 1 full stop more brightness than a comparable 60 watt light.
As a still life photographer (food, beverage and product) already in the godox/bowens mount eco system but now branching out to add stop motion and video my biggest reservation coming from flash is the output. Would this light be ok as a key light considering I'm mostly shooting in smaller spaces?
Going from flash to continuous lights is definitely a change for the output reason you mentioned. Even low power flashes can let you shoot at something like ISO 100, f/11, 1/200 or something. A 60 watt continuous light like this with a softbox would put you closer to something like ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/50 shooting a talking head setup from 3-4 feet. For stop motion, it could work, assuming it's smaller stuff, the light can be closer, and you're OK with longer shutter speeds on a tripod. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get ISO 100, f/8, 1/15 or so in your scenario. With continuous LEDs, every time the wattage doubles, you essentially get 1 full stop more brightness. So even a 300 watt continuous light would be 2 stops more light than this one. Long story short, you could start with this and see if it's bright enough, and if not, use it as a back light or something. I hope that helps!
I have 2 SL60II and love them. At 100% power with an octabox you can get a good amount of light. If you need fast shutter speed than 1/50 or Lower ISO than 400, or even longer distance to subject than 2-3m, go for a 150W LED. If you want a regular youtube portrait framing like NewLayer at 1:35, as a key light at about 1m50 50%-100% power you'll get way enough light for any modern cameras. It's also pefect for table-top product photos or stop motion. Don't forget regular film stock for movies like Vision 3 are 500T for 1/48 to help lighting on the scene without frying the actors :) As of 13 oct 2023, they are 109$ with the link above at BH, it's insane :) Good luck!
@@DynamicRockers Very good info here! And yes, if you've every tried to film a video at "photo" settings, like ISO 100, f/8, 1/200, it's so bright you can't even open your eyes, hahaha. There's a reason continuous lights are as bright as they are.
@@daleelliott7390 To give you a comparison about the amount of light you get from a Godox, I have a tungsten 4 bulbs (100W each) cinema fixture next to it and the output is comparable.
This light is powered only by wall power (or a portable power station), so you need the cable, it has no battery support. Look at my Godox ML60II Bi for a battery friendly option.
Yes, although a lot of product photographers use strobes because they are MUCH brighter than continuous lights. A big benefit of continuous lights is that you can see exactly what you'll get in real time, unlike strobes (except bigger strobes that include continuous modeling lamps). With a 60 watt continuous light, you'll like end up shooting at higher ISOs, lower shutter speeds, and/or wider apertures. I often find myself shooting photos for my reviews and social media content around 1/50 second, ISO 400-800, and f/5.6 or so. So if you want to be able to shoot at ISO 100, 1/250 shutter speed, and f/11, you'll definitely want to go the strobe route, or alternatively, you'd need a 300-600 watt continuous light to get closer to that brightness, which are much more expensive. Hope that helps!
@@BlankPhot Make sure you don't confuse "ws" with "watts"! "Ws" is "watt-seconds", which is how flashes/strobes are measured. Watts is how continuous lights are measured, and they are not equal. A 100Ws strobe will be much brighter than a 300 watt continuous light. It's been a while since I used strobes, but I had some 160Ws flashes and used them a LOT on 1/16 or 1/8 power with softboxes and shot around 1/160 second, ISO 100, and f/11 or so if I recall correctly. So they have lots of power. But, I do think 200Ws is a great place to start, while also giving you room to play if you need to.
I would love to if I can get ahold of one. It's not super clear what the differences are from the original VL series just from looking. Do you know if there's been any big changes?
I’m actually not sure that’s why I was wondering if you were gonna get your hands on it 😂 So what do you think- what’s the new king in the 150/300 strength?
@@christopherduran9926 That question is so hard to answer nowadays because there are so many good options. Aputure/Amaran, Nanlite, and Godox are the big three, and my main recommendation would be to stick with 1 brand. So if you already have other lights from them, I would stay within that ecosystem. Other than that, it mostly depends on what features are most important to you (native battery support, RGB color, etc.) I'm happy to give recommendations if you can narrow it down a bit to the features that are most important to you :)
Thank you! but you’ve already helped me man, we have 2 VL 150s and a VL200 and the 4 kit TL60s, plus a Godox M1/ Aputure MC so we’re definitely set for now (until a VL craps out which I’m really hoping never happens) Only thing might be trying to get an M600D in the future In hindsight, we maybe should have gone Nanlite or Aputure, but Godox felt like the best bang/buck at the time in our budget
@@christopherduran9926 Nice! That sounds like a bunch of good lights. There's really nothing you can't do with your Godox lights Vs. the other brands' equivalents, so no need to have any regrets :)
I want to use these lights in a permanent setup simply connected to a power strip that I will turn on and off. If power is cut & restored, will these lights retain their temperature and intensity settings or will they reset back to default each time?
When I tested mine, it always starts up with the default settings of 1% brightness and 4400K CCT. The only real option I see would be to keep them powered on, and using the app, add the lights to a single group that you can toggle on/off without changing the settings.
They are pretty different lights, but in terms of brightness, the x100 is around 1/2 stop brighter. You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+SL60IIBI&light2=Zhiyun+Molus+X100 And here's my full review on the X100 and G60 if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/xMCO5_MpKys/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
The original SL60W was daylight only (around 5600K) and came it at 2460 lux, while the SL60II Bi-Color set to 5600K is 300 lux brighter at 2760 lux. You can see in the video, at 3200K, the brightness is 2300 lux, so technically dimmer on the tungsten end, but again, the original SL60W was not a bi-color light. And, the difference between 2300 lux and 2760 lux is not even 1/3 of a stop, so while there is technically a difference, in practical use, the brightness difference is negligible. It's just interesting/cool that it's brighter WHILE also being bi-color, if that makes sense :)
@@NewLayer 😲. That's a good step up then. Usually half the bulbs are 3.2k and half 5.6k. I also Just got a 120w Ynlux pro that keeps brightness steady. Must be new tech.
@@enricoparenti3057 Some companies take that more seriously than others for sure. And the older bi-color lights had much bigger differences, like you mentioned!
Hey I have a question, can I use it as harsh fake sunlight? I mean you see how brown eyes become honey brown when sunlight hits it. I need that type of artificial light. Does this light work like that? I do makeup closeup videos, I like natural harsh sun but where I live the weather is pretty unpredictable. So I was considering to buy the godoxsl60llbi. Should I go for it or maybe look for something else?
Yes, you can. If you want hard-shadowed light like the sun, you would just use the reflector it comes with. You can change the color of the light if you get the bi-color version, and/or you could just get the daylight version and adjust the white balance on your camera, which would have the same effect. For example, the daylight version is 5600K, but if you set your camera white balance to something like 6500K, the light would look warmer, or with the camera set to 4000K, the light would look cooler/bluer. Hope that helps!
Thanks! I personally usually like Godox better because the build quality is superior, but GVM is typically the cheapest, and they also go on sale more to be even cheaper, so they are still a great budget option. The quality of light that GVM lights output on average is just as good too.
As far as light color and brightness, they are identical, but, they are very different lights. I did a full review on the ML60 here: th-cam.com/video/GHiMqZ9oiQM/w-d-xo.html The ML60 is much smaller, doesn't have a native Bowens mount, has battery capabilities with the battery handle... but it's also ~$100 more, so it just depends if those things are worth it to you. If you don't need a super portable light with battery capability, I would just go with the SL60II Bi.
Did you ever have the original SL60W? Does this look like a worthy upgrade to you?
Which version do you consider the best option as a key light using a lantern softbox for interviews? thanks in advance!
@@katherinemartinez7768 This new version is definitely an upgrade over the original, and bi-color is better than single color if you plan to mix your LED with any other light sources, so I'd get the SL60II or SL60IIBi over the older lights.
@@NewLayer thanks so much so Kind of u!
Just ordered the bi color version. Looking forward to making content with it!
Nice, thanks for the support! Hope it works well for you :)
Nice to see you posting more regularly again. Also, congrats on making it to 100K subs! That is an amazing accomplishment!
Thanks for watching, commenting, and caring!
Great review! Thanks. It was just the information I needed to decide.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support.
Thank you for the detailed review. Snagged a SL-60ll D on amazon it was on sale for $104!
Nice! Killer deal, thanks for the support :)
Hello!
I love your detailed review on Godox lights:)
Godox recently released the Sl150w Mark iii can you please let me know what are the difference between mark ii & mark iii?
I haven't tested it personally, but the Mark III has mobile app control, and I've heard they refined the internal components, but as far as I know, that's really it.
Nice review ❤❤
Hi, I’m looking for a budget light for filmmaking/cinematography and was wondering what softbox would work best with this light. Since I’m mainly working in small and white rooms I want the light to be as controlled as possible to reduce spill. Any recommendations for modifiers that would match this use case? Also, cheaper the better obviously because this is just a hobby of mine and I’m not doing serious productions.
I highly recommend the Glow collapsible beauty dishes. They are about half the depth of a parabolic softbox, so take up less room, and are lighter weight. They also come not only with diffusion layers, but a grid, to control light spill, which you mentioned.
They come in three sizes, 34" is kind of standard, but the 25" also works very well if you want to stay as cheap and compact as possible.
geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver
geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver
geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver
Hope that helps!
Thanks! @@NewLayer
Hi mate, super high quality video, great job! I'm kinda new to lighting, at 0:50, you mentioned it doesn't have an integrated umbrella mount... does this mean I'd need to buy a mount to fit a Godox QR-P90 90CM Softbox? I'm seriously considering picking up a Godox SL60IIBi 75W. Any thought would be great, cheers!
Thanks! That softbox is a Bowens mount, so it'll attach directly to this light no problem. The umbrella mount I mention is just a little hole with a screw to use umbrellas for diffusion. They are just a literal umbrella with a rod that you slide in and screw down so they don't slide out.
The vast majority of people use softboxes like the one you mentioned, but some people like umbrellas still.
Hope that helps!
If you pick one up, I'd be grateful if you used my links if possible :)
geni.us/godoxsl60iibi
geni.us/godoxqrp90
@@NewLayer Legend, cheers!!
This light comes with no accessories like the accessory you put on @4:20. What’s it called any suggestions for small no budget short films? This is the only light I found in my budget it’s $180
This light does come with the reflector shown in the video at 4:20.
Which will be a better option for product videography when it comes to a second light? this one, a tube light (like the godox tl30), a small rgb light (g2 pocket ) or an led panel ( neewer pro660 rgb ).. with so many options, it gets more confusing to choose for beginners like me on a tight budget
If you have a main key light and softbox already, I would probably go for an RGB tube light. You can use it for a ton of different stuff like backlighting, accent lighting, or stuff like waving it over things for product videos, etc.
I currently use the Amaran PT2c and PT4c: geni.us/amaranpt2c
@@NewLayer thanks. Why choose the amaran over the godox tl30 or 60? Do you have a comparison video?
Very very valuable..Thankyou
Glad it was helpful!
I'm a graphic designer specializing in book covers and editorial illustrations. I make things and need to shoot them for my work. A photographer buddy is recommending I go with continuous lighting and a silver interior Bowens mount 3x4' softbox. I'm overwhelmed by the rabbit hole. I can't believe it's this hard to give a company my money. I want a well-built Softbox that will last. My setups are small usually no larger than shooting something I've made on poster paper. What is the best continuous light for my needs? What wattage will cover my bases? Can you recommend anything or point me anywhere? I shoot everything on a Canon 5D classic (12.8MP ftw) with a 50mm lens. At some point I'm expecting this camera to die but the shutter is so sweet I hope that's later rather than sooner.
Normally I recommend circular softboxes/beauty dishes, but in your case, I think a rectangular one will work best. If there's any reflections in your work, it will look better, and it will kind of simulate window light, which looks good for things like top down shots or book covers etc.
60 watts should be fine. You'll likely be shooting at 100% brightness with the softbox just a few feet away, but I don't foresee a problem.
This light would work great, but there's a couple other options to consider:
th-cam.com/video/2PbbX0HxITo/w-d-xo.html - As inexpensive as lights come, but very good output quality, and has battery support
th-cam.com/video/oSmdCGmUrQ8/w-d-xo.html - Another option with battery support, as well as mobile app control
Aputure always makes good stuff, so here's a 2'x3' softbox of theirs: amzn.to/49DrmE1
Glow has good stuff, and makes a LOT of different sizes, here's a 3' x 4' of theirs: amzn.to/3G153KV
Hope that helps.
@@NewLayer immensely helpful. Thanks so much. Quick question: for what I describe is a 3x4' softbox overkill for a 60W lamp? Or does it matter? I noticed that Aputure doesn't make a softbox that large; their largest rectangular softbox (that you link to above) is 60x90 (why don't they make a larger one?). I guess I'm fishing for a rule or ratio between watts and softbox dimensions. Thanks for helping me navigate the rabbit hole!
thanks for review bro, anyway which one better godox SL60IIbi or GVM SD80D ?
I have videos on both of them, so you'll have to watch and decide for yourself :)
Brightness and color accuracy they're comparable. The big difference is that the GVM light has native NP-F battery support.
Great review mate (VGC)
Thank you!
What is the channel and group button function in the body of sl60ii bi? Thank you
It's for remote/mobile app control. You can set lights to have the same channel/group and control multiple lights simultaneously.
Hey man great vid. What softboxes are compatible with the sl60ii that you can recommend?
Thanks! I much prefer collapsible beauty dishes to parabolic softboxes, because they are not as deep, and if you use diffusion on the front like 99% of people do, the light output is exactly the same, but with the smaller footprint.
These from Glow are some of my favorites:
geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver
geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver
geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver
That's great, but how good it is when compared to SL100Bi ?
The SL100Bi will be very minimally brighter, like 1/3 of a stop. I'd go up to a 150 watt light if you're needing more brightness than 60 watts.
Can I use this godox 60W II Bi light with 95 cm large softbox or should I use 100W light source for getting a good result for a medium size room
A 100W light is only going to be 1/3 stop brighter than a 60 watt light, so the difference is negligible. If you're just lighting 1-2 people from 3-5 feet away, a 60 watt bi-color light in a 95cm soft box should do fine in a controlled environment, as long as you're shooting at typical video settings like ISO 400, f/2.8, 1/50 second shutter speed.
If you want something brighter, I'd recommend going up to 150W, which will give you 1 full stop more brightness than a comparable 60 watt light.
As a still life photographer (food, beverage and product) already in the godox/bowens mount eco system but now branching out to add stop motion and video my biggest reservation coming from flash is the output. Would this light be ok as a key light considering I'm mostly shooting in smaller spaces?
Going from flash to continuous lights is definitely a change for the output reason you mentioned. Even low power flashes can let you shoot at something like ISO 100, f/11, 1/200 or something.
A 60 watt continuous light like this with a softbox would put you closer to something like ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/50 shooting a talking head setup from 3-4 feet.
For stop motion, it could work, assuming it's smaller stuff, the light can be closer, and you're OK with longer shutter speeds on a tripod. I wouldn't be surprised if you could get ISO 100, f/8, 1/15 or so in your scenario.
With continuous LEDs, every time the wattage doubles, you essentially get 1 full stop more brightness. So even a 300 watt continuous light would be 2 stops more light than this one.
Long story short, you could start with this and see if it's bright enough, and if not, use it as a back light or something. I hope that helps!
@@NewLayer Perfect, thank you for such a well thought out and detailed response. Much appreciated.
I have 2 SL60II and love them. At 100% power with an octabox you can get a good amount of light. If you need fast shutter speed than 1/50 or Lower ISO than 400, or even longer distance to subject than 2-3m, go for a 150W LED. If you want a regular youtube portrait framing like NewLayer at 1:35, as a key light at about 1m50 50%-100% power you'll get way enough light for any modern cameras. It's also pefect for table-top product photos or stop motion. Don't forget regular film stock for movies like Vision 3 are 500T for 1/48 to help lighting on the scene without frying the actors :) As of 13 oct 2023, they are 109$ with the link above at BH, it's insane :) Good luck!
@@DynamicRockers Very good info here! And yes, if you've every tried to film a video at "photo" settings, like ISO 100, f/8, 1/200, it's so bright you can't even open your eyes, hahaha. There's a reason continuous lights are as bright as they are.
@@daleelliott7390 To give you a comparison about the amount of light you get from a Godox, I have a tungsten 4 bulbs (100W each) cinema fixture next to it and the output is comparable.
Do you need the cord to use this outside ? Or is it wireless
This light is powered only by wall power (or a portable power station), so you need the cable, it has no battery support. Look at my Godox ML60II Bi for a battery friendly option.
Would this be fine for a beginner to get started with on product photography?
Yes, although a lot of product photographers use strobes because they are MUCH brighter than continuous lights.
A big benefit of continuous lights is that you can see exactly what you'll get in real time, unlike strobes (except bigger strobes that include continuous modeling lamps).
With a 60 watt continuous light, you'll like end up shooting at higher ISOs, lower shutter speeds, and/or wider apertures. I often find myself shooting photos for my reviews and social media content around 1/50 second, ISO 400-800, and f/5.6 or so.
So if you want to be able to shoot at ISO 100, 1/250 shutter speed, and f/11, you'll definitely want to go the strobe route, or alternatively, you'd need a 300-600 watt continuous light to get closer to that brightness, which are much more expensive.
Hope that helps!
@@NewLayer it does!! 300-600ws are EXPENSIVE!!! Whew! Lol 😂 I think I’ll start at 200ws and see what I can get away with!!
@@BlankPhot Make sure you don't confuse "ws" with "watts"!
"Ws" is "watt-seconds", which is how flashes/strobes are measured. Watts is how continuous lights are measured, and they are not equal.
A 100Ws strobe will be much brighter than a 300 watt continuous light. It's been a while since I used strobes, but I had some 160Ws flashes and used them a LOT on 1/16 or 1/8 power with softboxes and shot around 1/160 second, ISO 100, and f/11 or so if I recall correctly. So they have lots of power.
But, I do think 200Ws is a great place to start, while also giving you room to play if you need to.
Do you think you’ll be reviewing the new VL ii series?
I would love to if I can get ahold of one. It's not super clear what the differences are from the original VL series just from looking. Do you know if there's been any big changes?
I’m actually not sure that’s why I was wondering if you were gonna get your hands on it 😂
So what do you think- what’s the new king in the 150/300 strength?
@@christopherduran9926 That question is so hard to answer nowadays because there are so many good options. Aputure/Amaran, Nanlite, and Godox are the big three, and my main recommendation would be to stick with 1 brand. So if you already have other lights from them, I would stay within that ecosystem.
Other than that, it mostly depends on what features are most important to you (native battery support, RGB color, etc.)
I'm happy to give recommendations if you can narrow it down a bit to the features that are most important to you :)
Thank you! but you’ve already helped me man, we have 2 VL 150s and a VL200 and the 4 kit TL60s, plus a Godox M1/ Aputure MC so we’re definitely set for now (until a VL craps out which I’m really hoping never happens)
Only thing might be trying to get an M600D in the future
In hindsight, we maybe should have gone Nanlite or Aputure, but Godox felt like the best bang/buck at the time in our budget
@@christopherduran9926 Nice! That sounds like a bunch of good lights. There's really nothing you can't do with your Godox lights Vs. the other brands' equivalents, so no need to have any regrets :)
Is it a good Key light? Thanks
Yes, for small scenes indoors, this is a good key light.
I want to use these lights in a permanent setup simply connected to a power strip that I will turn on and off. If power is cut & restored, will these lights retain their temperature and intensity settings or will they reset back to default each time?
When I tested mine, it always starts up with the default settings of 1% brightness and 4400K CCT. The only real option I see would be to keep them powered on, and using the app, add the lights to a single group that you can toggle on/off without changing the settings.
How would you compare it to the 100W Zhiyun?
They are pretty different lights, but in terms of brightness, the x100 is around 1/2 stop brighter. You can compare them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+SL60IIBI&light2=Zhiyun+Molus+X100
And here's my full review on the X100 and G60 if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/xMCO5_MpKys/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
Hi you say it's brighter. But do you mean at mid range 4k or in both 3.2k and 5.6k the same?
The original SL60W was daylight only (around 5600K) and came it at 2460 lux, while the SL60II Bi-Color set to 5600K is 300 lux brighter at 2760 lux. You can see in the video, at 3200K, the brightness is 2300 lux, so technically dimmer on the tungsten end, but again, the original SL60W was not a bi-color light.
And, the difference between 2300 lux and 2760 lux is not even 1/3 of a stop, so while there is technically a difference, in practical use, the brightness difference is negligible. It's just interesting/cool that it's brighter WHILE also being bi-color, if that makes sense :)
@@NewLayer 😲. That's a good step up then. Usually half the bulbs are 3.2k and half 5.6k. I also Just got a 120w Ynlux pro that keeps brightness steady. Must be new tech.
@@enricoparenti3057 Some companies take that more seriously than others for sure. And the older bi-color lights had much bigger differences, like you mentioned!
Can you power it with a V Mount battery?
No, this light only uses a standard power cable with a C13 connector on the side that goes into the light.
Hey I have a question, can I use it as harsh fake sunlight? I mean you see how brown eyes become honey brown when sunlight hits it. I need that type of artificial light. Does this light work like that?
I do makeup closeup videos, I like natural harsh sun but where I live the weather is pretty unpredictable. So I was considering to buy the godoxsl60llbi. Should I go for it or maybe look for something else?
Yes, you can. If you want hard-shadowed light like the sun, you would just use the reflector it comes with.
You can change the color of the light if you get the bi-color version, and/or you could just get the daylight version and adjust the white balance on your camera, which would have the same effect.
For example, the daylight version is 5600K, but if you set your camera white balance to something like 6500K, the light would look warmer, or with the camera set to 4000K, the light would look cooler/bluer.
Hope that helps!
@@NewLayer Thank you so much ♥️☺️
Hi ! Amazing video, I just bought GVM 150W RGB Video Light Kit, 2700K~7500K Bi-Color I am recording beauty videos, do you recommend godox better ?
Thanks! I personally usually like Godox better because the build quality is superior, but GVM is typically the cheapest, and they also go on sale more to be even cheaper, so they are still a great budget option. The quality of light that GVM lights output on average is just as good too.
do you recommend the SL60ii bi or the ML60 bi ? I can't see any difference between the two.for product and food photogrphy
As far as light color and brightness, they are identical, but, they are very different lights. I did a full review on the ML60 here: th-cam.com/video/GHiMqZ9oiQM/w-d-xo.html
The ML60 is much smaller, doesn't have a native Bowens mount, has battery capabilities with the battery handle... but it's also ~$100 more, so it just depends if those things are worth it to you.
If you don't need a super portable light with battery capability, I would just go with the SL60II Bi.
Compare it to the Colborn CL60
I finally have the Colbor CL60 to test! I'll do a full video ASAP.
Which mic to use?
There's no one answer for that. I have a lot of mic reviews on my channel as a starting point. Lots of different types of mics for different purposes.
Wanna see you walk up on an Escalade with 28” wheels and blacked out windows lol
I don't know what this means exactly, but I'll take it as a compliment, haha.