I really appreciate how clearly you speak and demonstrate at the same time. The pace is perfect. Thank you. Wish more tutorials were as easy to follow as this one.
Hi Holli ! From all of the tutorials out there re these stitches, yours is the best...!!! Your voice is very soothing, assuring but not pushing and explaining so precisely what you are intending for us to see, that I just had to post again and tell you that you are an excellent teacher and a master at doing what you are doing...!!! You are good... Very good...!!! Extremely good and do have blessings for your knowledge and sharing it... You made my day...!!! Thanks...
Wow, I will never use the wrap and turn method again....I just couldn't get the hang of it. You made this Japanese method look so easy, I am making a cardigan and the pattern directions called for the Japanese method of short rows....I couldn't be happier to try this....thank you for this precise video.
Thank you so much for sharing this method, Holly. I'm German and have practised the German Method for years, but the Japanese Short rows are my go-to from now. So beautiful invisible and a very helpful tutorial !
Thank you so much for teaching this technique! I'm terrified of short rows but this looks so much simpler and easier to keep track of! I'm working on a vest with multiple short rows and was dreading it; this will be such a help! 😘
Good, I'm glad this will help you! You can always put in a life line before you begin your short rows. That way if you screw up and need to rip it out, it's easy to get back to where you can begin again.
Holli, JUST BEAUTIFUL...!!! Thank you SOOOOOO very much...!!! Perfectly done... Perfectly explained... Perfectly simple and to the point...!!! THANKS...!!!
I've just completed the German short rows in the Field Sweater. I wish I'd seen your video first. I'll definitely try Japanese short rows in my next sweater.
Wow....so easy! Always thought it would be so confusing. Thank You 🙏 I Knit by centimeters not by rows...I make my own very simple patterns, I wish I understood better how to shape neck and shoulders with short rows. I don’t like patterns very much because you just follow not necessarily understanding what’s happening. Thinking of a tutorial shaping neck and shoulders on a scale size anytime soon with short rows technique, do yo think👍
Very good and clear instructions for knit side. The purl side of closing the Japanese short row is much different than the knit side. When will you post a video demonstrating it?
I don't have plans for a new video in the near future, but here's instructions on the working the purl side. Mark the turning point in the same manner as on the knit side. To close the gap on the purl side, work up to the gap, insert right needle into next st purlwise (but don't purl it, yet), grasp marker and gently pull it to create a loop, place loop onto right needle, then purl both the strand and stitch together.
Thank you so much. I managed this (in pattern too!) without even doing a practice piece.My first cardigan. For those asking I did the return short rows by skipping knitwise instead of purlwise, it seemed the obvious thing to do. Not sure if my pattern just disguised any irregularity but perhaps this would work just as well with stockinette.
I recommend always slipping the stitch as if to purl, otherwise you'll get a twisted stitch. This holds true regardless of whether the stitch you're slipping is a knit stitch or a purl stitch. The short rowing will still work with a twisted stitch, but if you look closely at the base of the stitch, you'll see that it's legs are crossed. 😊
Awesome!! And great instructions. I am so glad to find someone who doesn't start all their sentences with "uhm"😲 that is so extremely annoying!! So much so that it becomes a distraction. Thank you! Your voice is pleasant to listen to as well.
Thank you for this great instruction on a very effective technique. On a sweater I've been knitting, the closed gaps are almost invisible but I can't get the mirror image to look equally discreet (i.e. when the "slope" is going the other way). Any tips?
Whether you're working flat or in the round, the Japanese short rows should work the same way, with the slight exception of the last turn that was worked at the end of a WS short row. Working on the RS, in the round, when you reach the marker, you'll have to close the gap by inserting the needle into the stitch before the gap, with the marker, gently pull a loop up onto the right needle, then knit both the loop and stitch together. If you need instructions on closing the gap on a WS row, I've written it out below in response to g britton's comment.
Thanks for a great explanation! I’m knitting the top of a sweater and am having trouble though. The pattern has me knitting 68 and turn, purl 24 and turn, knit 22 and turn, purl 20, then continue. This technique works beautifully for closing the gaps on the knit side, but when I come around to the gaps made on the purl side, I’m left with holes. This is knit in the round so the gaps made on the purl side are closed on the knit side. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
Generally one method of short rows can be substituted for another. Swatching is always your best friend to see if you like the results. In my patterns, when I specify German short rows, it's because I thought it looked the best or was the simplest to do. Often if I'm short rowing in a knit/purl stitch pattern, I find it really fiddly to hide the turn on the WS when it's a purl st that shows on the RS of the fabric. For me, I find the German method is simpler and cleaner in those situations.
Thank you for a very good tutorial. I am now knitting a raglan sweater (in the round) with moss stitches, and would like to raise the back of the sweater a little using short rows. (Moss stitch pattern = *Round 1 & 2: K1, P1 til end of the round. Round 3 & 4:: P1, K1 til end of the round*). Do you know if there is any way to knit short rows without disrupting the moss stitch pattern, after having turned? I can´t seem to find a way to make it work without disrupting the pattern... Any tips would be very welcome!
While I've never done short rows in moss st before, I tested it out in a charting program. It should work. The key is to look at the next st on your needle (the one you're going to work into). If it's a knit stitch, begin your moss st pattern with a purl stitch and vice versa.
@@HolliYeoh I know, I do that - but I think it will only work in seed stitch, which has a 2-row repeat. But since moss stitch has a 4-row repeat, the short rows and turning will disrupt the stitch pattern. There are no videos showing moss sts and short rows either, so probably it is not compatible.. Thank you for trying to help :)
@@katrinehammer Whoops, I didn't read your original question closely enough and didn't notice that it's double moss. With the 4-row repeat, I can't figure out a way to make it work either. You could always modify that part of the pattern to single moss st.
Step 1 is to work to the turning point, but how do i know where that is? This is so pretty, but a bit unclear to me how to do it. I'm a complete beginning at short rows.
The knitting pattern instructions should tell you where to turn. If you want to practice, you could cast on 20 sts and work your turns 5, 10, and 15 sts from the beginning of the row on each successive right side row. That would be the same as my sample minus the garter stitch border.
@@HolliYeoh Thank you Holli! Right now I need to shape the shoulder of a vest I'm knitting and there's no pattern. I'm just following the general shape of another vest. Hence the challenge...
@@adriennolson609 For the shoulder drop, figure out how deep it is and convert to rows (even number). Divide the rows by 2 and that's the number of levels for your short row shaping. Divide the shoulder sts by the levels and that's the number of sts between each short row. If you have a fraction, work more sts at the armhole side of the shoulder and fewer at the neck side. i.e. a 19 st shoulder with 6 levels would work out to 4 sts between armhole edge and first short row turn, followed by five sets of 3 sts between subsequent short row turns.
Yes, it should. Swatch it to see if you like it. To be honest, when I'm short rowing in garter stitch, I usually use the wrap and turn method and I don't bother trying to hide the wrap. I find it's camouflaged by all the purl bumps in the garter stitch.
Generally it would be the same. However, I usually use the wrap and turn method with garter stitch and I leave the wrap in place. It's camouflaged by the garter stitch texture and not noticeable.
It depends on what kind of shape you want to create with the short rows but generally I would say to work to the end after the turn when doing shoulder shaping.
If your instructions have you bind off sts on the right hand edge of your knitting, then when you're converting to short rows, you want to be sure to turn and work back before you reach the right hand edge. You'll build up extra rows (and therefore, height) on the left edge but not the right edge. Vice versa if your instructions have you binding off sts on the left hand edge (when RS is facing) of your fabric.
Are you knitting one stitch past where you attached the clippy marker? It looks like it. But it's not really clear and I didn't hear any elaboration in the description so confused about when where to pick up the loop
The marker is sitting on the bar between two stitches. You need to work up to the gap in your knitting, which should be pretty apparent; it's a big gap. There will be a marker between those last 2 sts before the gap. It will look like this: stitch, marker on bar between stitches, stitch, big gap.
Holli Yeoh thanks. Yes. I see it. So obvious! Sorry it must have been 3am or something when I first watched lol. Thank you! Very clear instruction. Thanks for sharing
I saw Yuni Kim do this where she used bobby pins instead of locking stitch markers. I tried this with a shawl that had a LOT of short row stitches in it and it worked great! They don't fall off because of the shape. Much faster than using the locking stitch markers. However, if you REALLY want to use locking, I suggest the pear shaped safety pin stitch markers (they are on Amazon pretty cheap and many colors in a packet). They are easier to work with than the bulky ones shown in this video.
Yes, there's definitely more than one way/tool to do Japanese short rows and we each need to find the one that we like the best. Personally, I don't enjoy the experience as much with the little metal pear-shaped pins but I'm glad you've found something that you like. :-)
I must be a complete idiot ... I have tried and tried and do not see how you worked in three stitch markers scattered over a row on one side since there is always a reverse involved and a stitch required to hold the marker in place. I just don't understand (I have a swatch I have been working with that is 16" long ... does that tell you I've tried it over and over... LOL ... Help?
I don't really understand what you mean by "a reverse involved." The stitch markers will always be placed on the back side of the fabric as you're working (so if the right side is facing you, they'll be on the wrong side, but if the wrong side if facing you when placing the marker, it will be on the right side). The stitch marker is placed *around* the working yarn and not through a stitch or on the needle. After placing the stitch marker on the working yarn, hold it at the back with your finger (so it's not in the way) while you work the next stitch. The marker is basically trapped in place and on the bar between stitches.
I have this issue as well. For me it has nothing to do with where to hold the working yarn, it’s how do you get 3 reverse gaps in your knitting without having to knit over/close one.
I really appreciate how clearly you speak and demonstrate at the same time. The pace is perfect. Thank you. Wish more tutorials were as easy to follow as this one.
Amazing ,I keep learning something new everyday regarding knitting
Thank you for demystifying short rows for me! This is the clearest and simplest tutorial for it. Now I won't avoid projects with short rows.
I'm so glad it makes sense to you. Happy knitting!
I have used short rows, I have never seen this method, but it looks the best I have seen. Thank you
Thanks muchly. So few words yet so much learned 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Hi Holli ! From all of the tutorials out there re these stitches, yours is the best...!!! Your voice is very soothing, assuring but not pushing and explaining so precisely what you are intending for us to see, that I just had to post again and tell you that you are an excellent teacher and a master at doing what you are doing...!!! You are good... Very good...!!! Extremely good and do have blessings for your knowledge and sharing it... You made my day...!!! Thanks...
Thanks! You made my day.
Wow, I will never use the wrap and turn method again....I just couldn't get the hang of it. You made this Japanese method look so easy, I am making a cardigan and the pattern directions called for the Japanese method of short rows....I couldn't be happier to try this....thank you for this precise video.
Thank you Hollie, great explanation of Japanese short rows. I am definitely going to try this method.
Thank you so much for sharing this method, Holly. I'm German and have practised the German Method for years, but the Japanese Short rows are my go-to from now. So beautiful invisible and a very helpful tutorial !
Thank you so much for this video - and such a clear explanation and demonstration!
Thank you so much for teaching this technique! I'm terrified of short rows but this looks so much simpler and easier to keep track of! I'm working on a vest with multiple short rows and was dreading it; this will be such a help! 😘
Good, I'm glad this will help you! You can always put in a life line before you begin your short rows. That way if you screw up and need to rip it out, it's easy to get back to where you can begin again.
Holli, JUST BEAUTIFUL...!!! Thank you SOOOOOO very much...!!! Perfectly done... Perfectly explained... Perfectly simple and to the point...!!! THANKS...!!!
Thank you. You have a wonderful "stage" presence; your explanation was easy to follow!!! Thanks!
Thank you. Love from Ontario, Canada
I've just completed the German short rows in the Field Sweater. I wish I'd seen your video first. I'll definitely try Japanese short rows in my next sweater.
Thanks for showing me this new view, I was having so much trouble with the old way, but today I've understood your way.
I'm so glad to help!
I think I am in love with this method for short rows! Thank you !!! ❤️
This is amazingly easy!!!
Very cool, thanks!
What a beautiful way to shape shoulders. Thank you for teaching the techniques.
This is a great tutorial. Thank you!
Thank you for this simple and effective solution! Very easy to execute thanks to your excellent instructions~
Excellent. Thank you.
Thank you so much!
Perfect! Thanks!
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
well presented and easy to understand. Thank you :)
Wow....so easy! Always thought it would be so confusing. Thank You 🙏
I Knit by centimeters not by rows...I make my own very simple patterns, I wish I understood better how to shape neck and shoulders with short rows. I don’t like patterns very much because you just follow not necessarily understanding what’s happening. Thinking of a tutorial shaping neck and shoulders on a scale size anytime soon with short rows technique, do yo think👍
Very good and clear instructions for knit side. The purl side of closing the Japanese short row is much different than the knit side. When will you post a video demonstrating it?
I don't have plans for a new video in the near future, but here's instructions on the working the purl side. Mark the turning point in the same manner as on the knit side. To close the gap on the purl side, work up to the gap, insert right needle into next st purlwise (but don't purl it, yet), grasp marker and gently pull it to create a loop, place loop onto right needle, then purl both the strand and stitch together.
g britton TV TX
Thank you so much. I managed this (in pattern too!) without even doing a practice piece.My first cardigan. For those asking I did the return short rows by skipping knitwise instead of purlwise, it seemed the obvious thing to do. Not sure if my pattern just disguised any irregularity but perhaps this would work just as well with stockinette.
I recommend always slipping the stitch as if to purl, otherwise you'll get a twisted stitch. This holds true regardless of whether the stitch you're slipping is a knit stitch or a purl stitch. The short rowing will still work with a twisted stitch, but if you look closely at the base of the stitch, you'll see that it's legs are crossed. 😊
Good, clear video. Thank you!
OMG! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
Awesome!! And great instructions. I am so glad to find someone who doesn't start all their sentences with "uhm"😲 that is so extremely annoying!! So much so that it becomes a distraction. Thank you! Your voice is pleasant to listen to as well.
Thank you so much for your kind words!
Thank you for this great instruction on a very effective technique.
On a sweater I've been knitting, the closed gaps are almost invisible but I can't get the mirror image to look equally discreet (i.e. when the "slope" is going the other way). Any tips?
Thank you for your help.
Thank you: beautifully clear. Is there anything I need to think further about when working in the round, shaping a collar? Great thanks, Paula
Whether you're working flat or in the round, the Japanese short rows should work the same way, with the slight exception of the last turn that was worked at the end of a WS short row. Working on the RS, in the round, when you reach the marker, you'll have to close the gap by inserting the needle into the stitch before the gap, with the marker, gently pull a loop up onto the right needle, then knit both the loop and stitch together.
If you need instructions on closing the gap on a WS row, I've written it out below in response to g britton's comment.
Thanks for a great explanation! I’m knitting the top of a sweater and am having trouble though. The pattern has me knitting 68 and turn, purl 24 and turn, knit 22 and turn, purl 20, then continue. This technique works beautifully for closing the gaps on the knit side, but when I come around to the gaps made on the purl side, I’m left with holes. This is knit in the round so the gaps made on the purl side are closed on the knit side. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
The instructions for closing the gaps on the purl side are written out in the description above.
Спасибо
If your pattern calls for German short rows can you substitute with Japanese shorts rows?
Generally one method of short rows can be substituted for another. Swatching is always your best friend to see if you like the results. In my patterns, when I specify German short rows, it's because I thought it looked the best or was the simplest to do. Often if I'm short rowing in a knit/purl stitch pattern, I find it really fiddly to hide the turn on the WS when it's a purl st that shows on the RS of the fabric. For me, I find the German method is simpler and cleaner in those situations.
❤ Where can i find the blanket pattern?
holliyeoh.com/pattern/ebb-flow/
Ok and in the round how to work?
Thank you for a very good tutorial.
I am now knitting a raglan sweater (in the round) with moss stitches, and would like to raise
the back of the sweater a little using short rows.
(Moss stitch pattern = *Round 1 & 2: K1, P1 til end of the round. Round 3 & 4:: P1, K1 til end of the round*).
Do you know if there is any way to knit short rows without disrupting the moss stitch pattern, after having turned?
I can´t seem to find a way to make it work without disrupting the pattern...
Any tips would be very welcome!
While I've never done short rows in moss st before, I tested it out in a charting program. It should work. The key is to look at the next st on your needle (the one you're going to work into). If it's a knit stitch, begin your moss st pattern with a purl stitch and vice versa.
@@HolliYeoh I know, I do that - but I think it will only work in seed stitch, which has a 2-row repeat. But since moss stitch has a 4-row repeat, the short rows and turning will disrupt the stitch pattern. There are no videos showing moss sts and short rows either, so probably it is not compatible.. Thank you for trying to help :)
@@katrinehammer Whoops, I didn't read your original question closely enough and didn't notice that it's double moss. With the 4-row repeat, I can't figure out a way to make it work either. You could always modify that part of the pattern to single moss st.
Как научиться такой технике вязания? Как-то не привычно
thanks so much love this!
Step 1 is to work to the turning point, but how do i know where that is? This is so pretty, but a bit unclear to me how to do it. I'm a complete beginning at short rows.
The knitting pattern instructions should tell you where to turn. If you want to practice, you could cast on 20 sts and work your turns 5, 10, and 15 sts from the beginning of the row on each successive right side row. That would be the same as my sample minus the garter stitch border.
@@HolliYeoh Thank you Holli! Right now I need to shape the shoulder of a vest I'm knitting and there's no pattern. I'm just following the general shape of another vest. Hence the challenge...
@@adriennolson609 For the shoulder drop, figure out how deep it is and convert to rows (even number). Divide the rows by 2 and that's the number of levels for your short row shaping. Divide the shoulder sts by the levels and that's the number of sts between each short row. If you have a fraction, work more sts at the armhole side of the shoulder and fewer at the neck side. i.e. a 19 st shoulder with 6 levels would work out to 4 sts between armhole edge and first short row turn, followed by five sets of 3 sts between subsequent short row turns.
@@HolliYeoh Holli, thank you so much, I will definitely try this on a swatch first. So good to know!!!
Loove it!
hi lovely video. does this same technique work in garter? I'm knitting Steven West Vulpix and it asks for Japenese short row in garter. thank you!
Yes, it should. Swatch it to see if you like it. To be honest, when I'm short rowing in garter stitch, I usually use the wrap and turn method and I don't bother trying to hide the wrap. I find it's camouflaged by all the purl bumps in the garter stitch.
Holli Yeoh thank you so much xxx
Missing how to do it on purl side...
Can you do this method with garter stitch?
Generally it would be the same. However, I usually use the wrap and turn method with garter stitch and I leave the wrap in place. It's camouflaged by the garter stitch texture and not noticeable.
If doing shoulder shaping, do you do all the wraps at one time? or work to the end after each turn?
It depends on what kind of shape you want to create with the short rows but generally I would say to work to the end after the turn when doing shoulder shaping.
to do a shoulder slope according to the pattern, do you start opposite of the instruction? say left or right shoulder. your videos are great.
If your instructions have you bind off sts on the right hand edge of your knitting, then when you're converting to short rows, you want to be sure to turn and work back before you reach the right hand edge. You'll build up extra rows (and therefore, height) on the left edge but not the right edge. Vice versa if your instructions have you binding off sts on the left hand edge (when RS is facing) of your fabric.
thanks, that clears it up a lot, I wasn't sure whether to knit an extra row or not, to start the shoulder shaping.
Are you knitting one stitch past where you attached the clippy marker? It looks like it. But it's not really clear and I didn't hear any elaboration in the description so confused about when where to pick up the loop
The marker is sitting on the bar between two stitches. You need to work up to the gap in your knitting, which should be pretty apparent; it's a big gap. There will be a marker between those last 2 sts before the gap. It will look like this: stitch, marker on bar between stitches, stitch, big gap.
Holli Yeoh thanks. Yes. I see it. So obvious! Sorry it must have been 3am or something when I first watched lol. Thank you! Very clear instruction. Thanks for sharing
I'm so glad it makes sense to you now. :-)
Unfortunately you didn't show japanese short rows worked on the purl side...
True, but if you scroll down you'll see that I've included instructions in my response to one of the comments.
I saw Yuni Kim do this where she used bobby pins instead of locking stitch markers. I tried this with a shawl that had a LOT of short row stitches in it and it worked great! They don't fall off because of the shape. Much faster than using the locking stitch markers. However, if you REALLY want to use locking, I suggest the pear shaped safety pin stitch markers (they are on Amazon pretty cheap and many colors in a packet). They are easier to work with than the bulky ones shown in this video.
Yes, there's definitely more than one way/tool to do Japanese short rows and we each need to find the one that we like the best. Personally, I don't enjoy the experience as much with the little metal pear-shaped pins but I'm glad you've found something that you like. :-)
👏👏👏👍
Thank you soooooo much
Süper 👍
I must be a complete idiot ... I have tried and tried and do not see how you worked in three stitch markers scattered over a row on one side since there is always a reverse involved and a stitch required to hold the marker in place. I just don't understand (I have a swatch I have been working with that is 16" long ... does that tell you I've tried it over and over... LOL ... Help?
I don't really understand what you mean by "a reverse involved." The stitch markers will always be placed on the back side of the fabric as you're working (so if the right side is facing you, they'll be on the wrong side, but if the wrong side if facing you when placing the marker, it will be on the right side). The stitch marker is placed *around* the working yarn and not through a stitch or on the needle. After placing the stitch marker on the working yarn, hold it at the back with your finger (so it's not in the way) while you work the next stitch. The marker is basically trapped in place and on the bar between stitches.
I have this issue as well. For me it has nothing to do with where to hold the working yarn, it’s how do you get 3 reverse gaps in your knitting without having to knit over/close one.
jananese shortrows
Not as helpful as I'd hoped. I now understand how to close the gap left by the turn (thank-you), but there's no explanation of the actual short rows.
Not a thorough explanation