Great Video and thanks for all your other videos!! My two cents, be extra careful when jumping power with gasoline in the area!! Be a shame to see vehicle go up in flames!!
It would be interesting to know the typical fuel pump draw. Could a failing/bad pump draw too much current therefore overheating and damaging the module?
Not going to misplace that gauge lol. I enjoy watching your videos very good content you remind me of scannerdanner at times when you explain things I know you went to school there its just funny what people pick up besides just the skills
I've heard about FP module failures, but have not yet come across one. Thanks for sharing! I use OBS (Open Broadcaster Software) to screen capture my Verus... it can also handle youtube live streaming.
cool!..what comes to mind is a 2002 ford taurus from scannerdanner`s book..but, the FP module there is controling the ground for the pump..the same square wave i guess, but the ON and OFF-time are in reverse from yours..(his pump would`ve needed ground applied)
Just wanted to let everyone know that this failure is so common that VW has issued a recall. The remedy should be available in the end of June 2018. The nhtsa number is 17V509000, and VWs is 20AE.
When I hook up my gauge I get 40 psi at idle and when I raise the rpm it drops to 30 sometimes and then goes to 50 but never more. My scanner reads 40 bar at the rail so I think my hpfp is good but the supply lpfp is bad?
great video!!!, i have a question, if there is a failure on the high pressure side the engine runs with the low pressure in the rail as a safe mode in VW, as in Hyundai for example?,
I would be doing checks on the fuel system. I think the fuel pump modules are pretty common and usually start to act up after it gets up to operating temp
heat gun is my tool of choice for heat soaked dying GM computers :) and for cooling, the cheapest "air duster cans" just spray with it inverted, cheaper than component cooler
Hi. I have a 2011 passat b7 2.0 tdi yesterday while driving it died and did not fire up after that. It would crank but the engine would not fire up. After waiting for about 15 mins it fired up and died after 10 to 15 seconds. And again would crank and not fire up. I'm from India and getting hold of a vcds in a remote town here is next to impossible. Where can I start off with? Pls help. It's really urgent. I'm stuck in a remote place in India with no help
Damn, I wish I could take my car to you (2.0T TSI CBFA). My fuel pressure climbs to 130 bar after the car is shut off and up to operating temp (normal pressure otherwise when car is on and driving). When the pressure is that high, I try to turn over the engine and it stalls out. No one has been able to diagnose it correctly--hundreds of dollars later. Awesome content though, just subscribed!
Thank you. It’s normal for pressure to increase in the fuel rail after shutting it off. Something to do with the fuel boiling in the rail causes the pressure to rise. I’m wondering if you have a different issue.
@@PositiveLeadDiagnostics Yeah, I don't know--I think a separate issue may be at play. I have to wait an hour and a half to two hours before I can start the engine without issue. The mechanic advised me that the pressure should not build after the car is off. The car has a new (within the last two years) fuel system from the tank up to, and including, the injectors. It makes sense that the fuel could turn to vapor creating vapor pressure and thus increasing the overall pressure (e.g. more excited molecules moving at a higher velocities). But building to 130+ bar seems a bit much without any type of relief. I don't know though--I'm not a mechanic by any means.
Positive Lead Diagnostics It only happens after the vehicle is hot (~98 C) and doing stop and go errands. Meaning turning the car off and on. Then it’ll stall out when turning it over after it has sat for ~20 to 50 minutes. Under those conditions, it’ll happen about 75% of the time. It’s more prevalent on hot days (90 F or higher). Crank sensor is new also. I had thought maybe a relay is going bad, but was advised otherwise by a VW/ Audi mechanic. Otherwise, the car runs perfectly when driving.
I kept shouting "FUEL PUMP CURRENT!!!" Because of the fault code for the fuel pump short circuit and those brief pulses as it looked like the module could be cutting power as it sensed an over current.
Petar st Probably not, the control module can obviously sense a short, cut the power and generate a fault code. The fuse would blow from a short before or within the control module.
Nice Video Sir!.....And DAmmit, I hope this is my problem. WAs getting the p2293 on my 09' CC 2.0T TSI, and out of no where the the car shuts down either while in motion or at the light... ANd then it will either start and then die out with in a min.. and if it shuts out again, it will stall even quicker and won't start..... And then it' s minutes or many minute before it wants to start. So replaced the HFPF and the car ran fine for the for a mile or two. I stop somewhere, come back 30 minutes later and then I crank motor and starts, but doesn't idle for more than 30 secs,. and after a few minutes of it running, it shuts down within a minute or two.. and then takes 5 minutes to retart and will die even sooner..... SO I'm going to guess it's going to be electrical related to that fuel pump control module.. I'm going to swap this out next myself and see if that fixes the problem like it did on this example.
Good afternoon sir. Yesterday a car owner called and drove me to a garage where is car was parked. On getting there, battery from is lexus was pulled out and used for my testing in his Passat. The car that is faulty is a 2008 Volswagen Passat. The things I noticed when I connected my scantool were: *P2014, P0113, P2185* were the check engine codes I saw. But when I checked for modules *P0190, P0798, P0864 and P0841* were added previous 3 codes I highlighted 👆. Before long, about 7 minutes or less during my scan I wanted to crank the engine over to check the live data and the operation of the car unfortunately the battery went low. Hence, I couldn't carry out more test. In an interview of the car owner about what he used to notice/ symptoms in the car and what was replaced in the car in an attempt to solve the problem. He highlighted that it happened on is way, when the car was on motion and suddenly went off. He allowed the car to cool down for some time. When he tried starting it again it started and moved for some distance and stalled out again. He invited an electrician to check the cause and fix the problem. The fuel pump was replaced and an actuator as he said but that he can't recall the name at the moment. The car was then driven to a garage where I meet it. Since then they've been trying to fix the problems permanently but to no prevail. Initially, most of the times the battery will drain out quickly and when car gets hot, the car will go off on motion. But he has not noticed stalling off the car at idle. Consequently, the engine oil was replaced, top cylinder valves grinded, oil switch, plugs, coils, top gasket and PCM were replaced but the problem was still not fixed. Moreover it was also noticed that mostly the car will hesitate whenever it wants to climb hill like a popping sound accompanied with that and move very slowly on smooth road. At present, the man said the car problem have gotten worst, it only cranks but doesn't start anymore. In summary, the car used to drain very fast, struggle to climb a hill or bump, and when on motion engine stalls when hot. Please help me out on how to solve the car problems and get the car starting again.
I thought you worked at dealer. Is the VW factory scan tool so foreign you have to use aftermarket scanner 😳 Do video on how to disconnect those aggravating VW wire connectors, the proper way if there is one. 99 times out of a 100 if you hear no pump, it's the pump. Let car sit on lot a few months, you'll be putting another one in it, and a battery. Independent shop, you don't see as many weird problems as dealer. Like flash updates, if the car has 89k or more miles then any service bulletin has probably already been fixed I hope. Unlikely they drove car that long with a major problem. Lot different in a high volume repair shop. We rarely even see Volkswagen unless it's towed in off the interstate and been run hot or needs fuel pump. A Euro tech would starve to death here.
Chased this issue for forever. I ripped the whole interior apart thinking i have a bad ground or something was overheating. Great vid
Great Video and thanks for all your other videos!! My two cents, be extra careful when jumping power with gasoline in the area!! Be a shame to see vehicle go up in flames!!
I cleaned it pretty good before I started jumping the pump, thanks for watching
Great video. It was a bit scary seeing those sparks shortly after you said the gauge was leaking, though!
Thanks for taking the time to do this, I know it's not easy to diagnose a car and video it at the same time.
great video, should put fuel pressure test in title. Looked every for a video like this and couldn't find it.keep up the great videos. Thanks
Nice work. The signal for that new module was quite a bit different. Thanks!
It would be interesting to know the typical fuel pump draw. Could a failing/bad pump draw too much current therefore overheating and damaging the module?
Keep it up!
Amazing video
Not going to misplace that gauge lol. I enjoy watching your videos very good content you remind me of scannerdanner at times when you explain things I know you went to school there its just funny what people pick up besides just the skills
Nice diagnosis & repair Tom!
Nice job fixing the problem
great video Tommy thanks
Always an interesting video. Thank you for sharing.
It's nice that you can replace the module without having to buy a whole fuel pump assembly.
I've heard about FP module failures, but have not yet come across one. Thanks for sharing! I use OBS (Open Broadcaster Software) to screen capture my Verus... it can also handle youtube live streaming.
Great Videos as Always!
cool!..what comes to mind is a 2002 ford taurus from scannerdanner`s book..but, the FP module there is controling the ground for the pump..the same square wave i guess, but the ON and OFF-time are in reverse from yours..(his pump would`ve needed ground applied)
I have same symptoms on my a4 b7 with a p0087 and 2293 ... Question is where u can get that module?
Just wanted to let everyone know that this failure is so common that VW has issued a recall. The remedy should be available in the end of June 2018. The nhtsa number is 17V509000, and VWs is 20AE.
Thanks Tommy did new module need coded in? cheers sandy
Nice diagnostic Tom =)
When I hook up my gauge I get 40 psi at idle and when I raise the rpm it drops to 30 sometimes and then goes to 50 but never more. My scanner reads 40 bar at the rail so I think my hpfp is good but the supply lpfp is bad?
Great work again Tommy,thanks for sharing,does the new module need coding to the vehicle?👍👍
No coding needed on this one
Great video and thank you
great video!!!, i have a question, if there is a failure on the high pressure side the engine runs with the low pressure in the rail as a safe mode in VW, as in Hyundai for example?,
It will run on low pressure if there is a high side issue
Wondering how warm new unit ran compared to old one? Good video!
Is it possible to put CNG(compressed natural gas) injection system on these direct injection TSI engines?
should be possible, but i'd recommend different valve seats.
I have a golf 6 GTI when the car gets to operating temperature it stall and won't start until it's cooled down any suggestions please I have a p2293
I would be doing checks on the fuel system. I think the fuel pump modules are pretty common and usually start to act up after it gets up to operating temp
Nice video Tom. Ever consider a haoir blow dryer to warm up a module ?
heat gun is my tool of choice for heat soaked dying GM computers :)
and for cooling, the cheapest "air duster cans" just spray with it inverted, cheaper than component cooler
Great Video! What if I'm out in the dessert with this problem? Can I hotwire the fuel pump to drive home? I know, don't go to the dessert with a VW...
Yeah I guess you could lol.
Hi. I have a 2011 passat b7 2.0 tdi yesterday while driving it died and did not fire up after that. It would crank but the engine would not fire up. After waiting for about 15 mins it fired up and died after 10 to 15 seconds. And again would crank and not fire up. I'm from India and getting hold of a vcds in a remote town here is next to impossible. Where can I start off with? Pls help. It's really urgent. I'm stuck in a remote place in India with no help
Damn, I wish I could take my car to you (2.0T TSI CBFA). My fuel pressure climbs to 130 bar after the car is shut off and up to operating temp (normal pressure otherwise when car is on and driving). When the pressure is that high, I try to turn over the engine and it stalls out. No one has been able to diagnose it correctly--hundreds of dollars later. Awesome content though, just subscribed!
Thank you. It’s normal for pressure to increase in the fuel rail after shutting it off. Something to do with the fuel boiling in the rail causes the pressure to rise. I’m wondering if you have a different issue.
@@PositiveLeadDiagnostics Yeah, I don't know--I think a separate issue may be at play. I have to wait an hour and a half to two hours before I can start the engine without issue. The mechanic advised me that the pressure should not build after the car is off. The car has a new (within the last two years) fuel system from the tank up to, and including, the injectors.
It makes sense that the fuel could turn to vapor creating vapor pressure and thus increasing the overall pressure (e.g. more excited molecules moving at a higher velocities). But building to 130+ bar seems a bit much without any type of relief. I don't know though--I'm not a mechanic by any means.
Does this happen all the time or only at hot temperature after using the vehicle a while?
Positive Lead Diagnostics It only happens after the vehicle is hot (~98 C) and doing stop and go errands. Meaning turning the car off and on. Then it’ll stall out when turning it over after it has sat for ~20 to 50 minutes. Under those conditions, it’ll happen about 75% of the time. It’s more prevalent on hot days (90 F or higher). Crank sensor is new also. I had thought maybe a relay is going bad, but was advised otherwise by a VW/ Audi mechanic. Otherwise, the car runs perfectly when driving.
@@joshuam7552 did you solve this problem I have the exact same thing
I kept shouting "FUEL PUMP CURRENT!!!" Because of the fault code for the fuel pump short circuit and those brief pulses as it looked like the module could be cutting power as it sensed an over current.
In this circumstance there would be blown fuse for fuel pump?
Petar st Probably not, the control module can obviously sense a short, cut the power and generate a fault code. The fuse would blow from a short before or within the control module.
for sure want to check the pump current!
Nice Video Sir!.....And DAmmit, I hope this is my problem. WAs getting the p2293 on my 09' CC 2.0T TSI, and out of no where the the car shuts down either while in motion or at the light... ANd then it will either start and then die out with in a min.. and if it shuts out again, it will stall even quicker and won't start..... And then it' s minutes or many minute before it wants to start.
So replaced the HFPF and the car ran fine for the for a mile or two. I stop somewhere, come back 30 minutes later and then I crank motor and starts, but doesn't idle for more than 30 secs,. and after a few minutes of it running, it shuts down within a minute or two.. and then takes 5 minutes to retart and will die even sooner..... SO I'm going to guess it's going to be electrical related to that fuel pump control module.. I'm going to swap this out next myself and see if that fixes the problem like it did on this example.
Thanks for watching. The fuel pump modules are very common.
Good stuff thanks for sharing
You just need to have a meter on module 12v and another at the pump side, then whichever one falls off is the problem.
Good afternoon sir. Yesterday a car owner called and drove me to a garage where is car was parked. On getting there, battery from is lexus was pulled out and used for my testing in his Passat.
The car that is faulty is a 2008 Volswagen Passat. The things I noticed when I connected my scantool were: *P2014, P0113, P2185* were the check engine codes I saw. But when I checked for modules *P0190, P0798, P0864 and P0841* were added previous 3 codes I highlighted 👆.
Before long, about 7 minutes or less during my scan I wanted to crank the engine over to check the live data and the operation of the car unfortunately the battery went low.
Hence, I couldn't carry out more test. In an interview of the car owner about what he used to notice/ symptoms in the car and what was replaced in the car in an attempt to solve the problem. He highlighted that it happened on is way, when the car was on motion and suddenly went off. He allowed the car to cool down for some time. When he tried starting it again it started and moved for some distance and stalled out again.
He invited an electrician to check the cause and fix the problem. The fuel pump was replaced and an actuator as he said but that he can't recall the name at the moment. The car was then driven to a garage where I meet it. Since then they've been trying to fix the problems permanently but to no prevail.
Initially, most of the times the battery will drain out quickly and when car gets hot, the car will go off on motion. But he has not noticed stalling off the car at idle.
Consequently, the engine oil was replaced, top cylinder valves grinded, oil switch, plugs, coils, top gasket and PCM were replaced but the problem was still not fixed.
Moreover it was also noticed that mostly the car will hesitate whenever it wants to climb hill like a popping sound accompanied with that and move very slowly on smooth road.
At present, the man said the car problem have gotten worst, it only cranks but doesn't start anymore.
In summary, the car used to drain very fast, struggle to climb a hill or bump, and when on motion engine stalls when hot.
Please help me out on how to solve the car problems and get the car starting again.
I thought you worked at dealer. Is the VW factory scan tool so foreign you have to use aftermarket scanner 😳
Do video on how to disconnect those aggravating VW wire connectors, the proper way if there is one. 99 times out of a 100 if you hear no pump, it's the pump. Let car sit on lot a few months, you'll be putting another one in it, and a battery. Independent shop, you don't see as many weird problems as dealer.
Like flash updates, if the car has 89k or more miles then any service bulletin has probably already been fixed I hope. Unlikely they drove car that long with a major problem. Lot different in a high volume repair shop. We rarely even see Volkswagen unless it's towed in off the interstate and been run hot or needs fuel pump. A Euro tech would starve to death here.
I did mean a hair blow dryer !