It's saddening to think that the previous recommendation on this vehicle was plugs and wires when there were obvious injector fault codes in memory. Great job on the diagnosis in any case, at least you were able to get him taken care of! :)
Hi my good friend Tommy!!!!Excellent video!!! That is what we are talking about and what is supposed to be a good channel on youtube! Because, beyond carrying a simple information, as many people do; The idea is to teach due process when it comes to diagnosing a fault. Always keeping in mind, that to reach this level, "DIY have to study and spend long hours in practice to master the process." It's not as simple as it looks! And if we do not dominate; The theory, the practice and the system the risk increases and the cost is even greater!EXCELLENT TOMMY !!!
Was nice watching and learned some things. After you found out the ECU was ok, I would have taken another path. Disconnect the ECU connector and test the resistance of each control wire from ECU to the Injector or feed the ECU Connector side 12V and measure the voltage at the injector end. Would have saved you the "pain" of turning the engine over and test would have been easier just with the voltmeter or your test light :))
From my experience most of European vehicles need the engine to be running/cranking to power up the injectors, coils, idle air control valves and other stuff, for these components are powered from the fuel pump relay. Seen it in Skoda Felicia 1.3l multipoint inj. from 2000 and Fiat Seicento 0.9l singlepoint inj. from 2002.
Nice... don't see that too often (one shorted & one open) at the same time. Good call on replacing all! I had a shorted injector on a VR6 a while back... customer only wanted the one replaced. =(
My friend found a good deal on all 6 slightly used for $100. 1 brand new from Vw was over that price. Thanks for supporting man. You have some good stuff on your channel too!!
OMG! This is my car and I have a similar issue; p1218, #6 short to + I have the manifold off. I have 17.8 ohms on #6 injector(and #5 too). I traced the green wire back pretty far and it looks fine. Could it be a bad injector? I thought the 17ohms meant=OK. It would be nice to be able to change an injector and call it good.
I want to get more fixes/repairs. So the part 2 will be one more check that I should have shown on this video and then replacing a fuel inj and getting known good waveforms
Cyl 1 injector control did not quite go to zero volts it looked to be about 1 volt, I think that would be an indication of shorted coils in the injector, would it?
It's a lot easier with VCDS, which labels all the measuring blocks & values. VCDS is a lot cheaper than the Snap-On too! (Although not so useful for non-VW makes, granted)
How many mA does the lamp in your test light draw ? I recall Scanner saying it should be no more than 200mA if your going to us it as you were at the PCM I tested mine about a year ago
Yea the power side feed is controlled by the fuel pump relay. I'm thinking that the 3.5v on the control side is a bias voltage. I will explore that further in part 2
I don't like resistance checks. I don't trust them to be honest. The ohm check wouldn't be a bad idea. But don't forget you have to pull the intake first. So what would be an easier place to start. Ohm checks or voltage and amperage waveforms?
Thanks for watching. What do you mean? Jumping the relay? You could do that. Might be a pain because those relays are a bit complicated. But it's def possible
Positive Lead Diagnostics By jumping the relay, I mean to by pass the relay or jumper wire between the control circuit pins/terminals. If you don't mind me asking where did you learn your electrical diagnostics?
I would say not to use a jumper wire on the terminals.when the computer starts to ground or pulse the circuit with a jumper wire you have created a straight short to ground and it will fry that driver in the computer. I used the testlight. The bulb will carry the load and basically protect it from a short to ground. I went to Rosedale in 2008-2009. ScannerDanner was my instructor.
But im a bit confused maybe you can help me man, if its open why we would have 3,6 volts? No current flow no voltage drop is that right we should had 12v, what im missing? Thanks
I also think it was a Shut down of injector 6 beacuse of the Open, the feedback was lost and a different DTC circuit malfunction compare to cyl 1. The cool thing was when you put the testlight on cyl 6 controlwire, then ECU wakes up start to control your testlight. The amps is going through the testlight, and the ampmeter is still on the open injector circuit. Thanks for great videos !
+Positive Lead Diagnostics thank you for responding im sorry i replyed just now but dont know ehy didnt get the notification, anyway cant wait for part 2!
the whole time I was thinking do a continuity test to check the wiring to the injector! also why did test light on positive battery trick the ecu? i realise its bypassing the rest of the loom to the injector but why positive?
I don't like ohm checks personally. When the ecm does it's self test on the injectors it is expecting to see 12v on the inj control wires. So you take you test light from battery Positive to the control wire which pulls that bias voltage up to 12v and the computer thinks that the circuit is ok
ok cool but how does it see 12v on the control wire in the first place? are they ground side switched? or are the injectors grounded through the engine (in which case if the injector is open circuit as they were found to be here the computer wasnt seeing the 12v? Sorry if im being dumb here I like to understand so I learn. Really like your channel by the way!
Happen to see your video you seem to really enjoy yourself. Keep up that spirit! World needs more Tech's that don't do things the right way. That is why my customers keep coming back to me.
Most of what's going on in the Tech world is not a lack of knowledge, it is about the quicker money. Somewhat sad but on the flip side every tool nowadays is so expensive that that the money just has to keep rolling in. My shop is independent and I don't have that problem but I would never knock those that have to pay the bills every month. I really do enjoy seeing people that take that extra time to figure out what is going on. Sorry! but I hate parts changers. Sometimes diagnostics take that extra time one does not get payed for in $$$'s but at the end of the day it feels good to have your customer say "Whatever you decide I know will be what I need" It is that trust that pays the most in the long run. Keep'em coming!
It's saddening to think that the previous recommendation on this vehicle was plugs and wires when there were obvious injector fault codes in memory. Great job on the diagnosis in any case, at least you were able to get him taken care of! :)
Thanks for watching. Yeah I honestly don't know what they were thinking. Possibly a very limited shop but that's no excuse.
Hi my good friend Tommy!!!!Excellent video!!! That is what we are talking about and what is supposed to be a good channel on youtube! Because, beyond carrying a simple information, as many people do; The idea is to teach due process when it comes to diagnosing a fault. Always keeping in mind, that to reach this level, "DIY have to study and spend long hours in practice to master the process."
It's not as simple as it looks! And if we do not dominate; The theory, the practice and the system the risk increases and the cost is even greater!EXCELLENT TOMMY !!!
Thanks Pedro. I can always count on you for support
Was nice watching and learned some things. After you found out the ECU was ok, I would have taken another path. Disconnect the ECU connector and test the resistance of each control wire from ECU to the Injector or feed the ECU Connector side 12V and measure the voltage at the injector end. Would have saved you the "pain" of turning the engine over and test would have been easier just with the voltmeter or your test light :))
I really don't trust resistance checks, I prefer the voltage drop method, but no way is wrong, there are so many approaches, thanks for watching!
Nice diagnosis. Enjoyed watching you think your way through it.
btw you ever think about doing mobile diagnostics at garages you know your stuff man
I have been trying to get out there. Just waiting for the calls to come pouring in lol
Top video I like the way you think things thru..
Cool video ! helping me hugely with my diagnostics
Nice Brian. Glad I can help!!
From my experience most of European vehicles need the engine to be running/cranking to power up the injectors, coils, idle air control valves and other stuff, for these components are powered from the fuel pump relay. Seen it in Skoda Felicia 1.3l multipoint inj. from 2000 and Fiat Seicento 0.9l singlepoint inj. from 2002.
I really enjoyed that tom
Nice... don't see that too often (one shorted & one open) at the same time. Good call on replacing all! I had a shorted injector on a VR6 a while back... customer only wanted the one replaced. =(
My friend found a good deal on all 6 slightly used for $100. 1 brand new from Vw was over that price. Thanks for supporting man. You have some good stuff on your channel too!!
Positive Lead Diagnostics One of my viewers recommended your channel... I'll be watching from now on. Thank you for having taken a peek at mine!
nice job, congratulations for you 1k subs.
Thanks!!
Your channel have some great content keep up the good work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks will do!
Well done my friend well done indeed!
Great video
You couldn’t have jumper the 12v too the good side of the splice and check for 12v?
test lights .. FTW ..!!
nice job, you deserve more Sub's .. :)
Thank you
OMG! This is my car and I have a similar issue; p1218, #6 short to +
I have the manifold off. I have 17.8 ohms on #6 injector(and #5 too).
I traced the green wire back pretty far and it looks fine.
Could it be a bad injector? I thought the 17ohms meant=OK.
It would be nice to be able to change an injector and call it good.
Awsome job man Where did you get your back probe pins? I like them
Thanks John Aeswave.com
Nice diagnosis Tom. Part 2...sounds like fixing one issue uncovers another?
I want to get more fixes/repairs. So the part 2 will be one more check that I should have shown on this video and then replacing a fuel inj and getting known good waveforms
Gotcha yea videos are better when the fix confirms the diagnosis. Those injector waveforms undoubtedly show a shorted & open injector.
I agree. I think it will make for a better video so I will try to do it when I can
another good video keep em coming
Cyl 1 injector control did not quite go to zero volts it looked to be about 1 volt, I think that would be an indication of shorted coils in the injector, would it?
I didn't notice that. Not entirely sure on that but cyl 1 was def shorted
how do you remember all the vw 2 codes for misfires fuel trims etc! id have to use a cheat sheet for sure
I have been working on the Vw's for 5 years now. It's stuck in my brain!!
It's a lot easier with VCDS, which labels all the measuring blocks & values. VCDS is a lot cheaper than the Snap-On too! (Although not so useful for non-VW makes, granted)
Yea I still have yet to get the vcds. So far I haven't absolutely needed one. Obviously knowing the value blocks helps
How many mA does the lamp in your test light draw ?
I recall Scanner saying it should be no more than 200mA
if your going to us it as you were at the PCM
I tested mine about a year ago
I checked it a while ago it was 175-179 mA
Thank You
good diagnostic amigo
Nice job. So it only puts out 12 Volts while cranking? It doesn't at least give you a bias voltage koeo?
Yea the power side feed is controlled by the fuel pump relay. I'm thinking that the 3.5v on the control side is a bias voltage. I will explore that further in part 2
Nice one...Love this one alot.
Do I hear timing chains Lol....
Would an ohm check on the injectors not have been faster ?
I don't like resistance checks. I don't trust them to be honest. The ohm check wouldn't be a bad idea. But don't forget you have to pull the intake first. So what would be an easier place to start. Ohm checks or voltage and amperage waveforms?
Do you think by-passing the fuel pump relay would give the voltage at the injectors you needed verify.
Great video also. Glad I found the channel.
Thanks for watching. What do you mean? Jumping the relay? You could do that. Might be a pain because those relays are a bit complicated. But it's def possible
Positive Lead Diagnostics By jumping the relay, I mean to by pass the relay or jumper wire between the control circuit pins/terminals. If you don't mind me asking where did you learn your electrical diagnostics?
I would say not to use a jumper wire on the terminals.when the computer starts to ground or pulse the circuit with a jumper wire you have created a straight short to ground and it will fry that driver in the computer. I used the testlight. The bulb will carry the load and basically protect it from a short to ground. I went to Rosedale in 2008-2009. ScannerDanner was my instructor.
It definitely show.
But im a bit confused maybe you can help me man, if its open why we would have 3,6 volts? No current flow no voltage drop is that right we should had 12v, what im missing? Thanks
The other thought is that it is a bias voltage from the computer
I will look into that on part 2
I also think it was a Shut down of injector 6 beacuse of the Open, the feedback was lost and a different DTC circuit malfunction compare to cyl 1.
The cool thing was when you put the testlight on cyl 6 controlwire, then ECU wakes up start to control your testlight.
The amps is going through the testlight, and the ampmeter is still on the open injector circuit.
Thanks for great videos !
Thanks Robert. Definitely a cool test! Part 2 will be out soon
+Positive Lead Diagnostics thank you for responding im sorry i replyed just now but dont know ehy didnt get the notification, anyway cant wait for part 2!
the whole time I was thinking do a continuity test to check the wiring to the injector! also why did test light on positive battery trick the ecu? i realise its bypassing the rest of the loom to the injector but why positive?
I don't like ohm checks personally. When the ecm does it's self test on the injectors it is expecting to see 12v on the inj control wires. So you take you test light from battery Positive to the control wire which pulls that bias voltage up to 12v and the computer thinks that the circuit is ok
ok cool but how does it see 12v on the control wire in the first place? are they ground side switched? or are the injectors grounded through the engine (in which case if the injector is open circuit as they were found to be here the computer wasnt seeing the 12v?
Sorry if im being dumb here I like to understand so I learn. Really like your channel by the way!
Ground side switched. Exactly the open inj creates the incomplete circuit. Thanks I really appreciate that.
So we just run a wire? .... did anybody else found that funny😂
Excellent Video but would have been better to throw in a known good wave form.
Part 2 my friend. Coming soon !
Happen to see your video you seem to really enjoy yourself. Keep up that spirit! World needs more Tech's that don't do things the right way. That is why my customers keep coming back to me.
I can honestly say I enjoy doing what some techs do not
Most of what's going on in the Tech world is not a lack of knowledge, it is about the quicker money. Somewhat sad but on the flip side every tool nowadays is so expensive that that the money just has to keep rolling in. My shop is independent and I don't have that problem but I would never knock those that have to pay the bills every month. I really do enjoy seeing people that take that extra time to figure out what is going on. Sorry! but I hate parts changers. Sometimes diagnostics take that extra time one does not get payed for in $$$'s but at the end of the day it feels good to have your customer say "Whatever you decide I know will be what I need" It is that trust that pays the most in the long run. Keep'em coming!
GRATE JOB
kewl tommy
Question how did I break heat and cold shit just dont break
Come do this to my 24valve vr6 please 😊
Dude that vr is a little loud