More have said it already but I just need to say it to, Stasa is a fantastic commentator. The way she analyzed and predicted the moves as they happened really gave an extra dimension to watching the competition.
I was just going to comment the same - and found I’m far from the only one! Also a big fan of Stasa, really great commentary every time she joins. If only we had Matt and Stasa/other climbers casting the olympics…
@@rbnhd Yeah, the commentators for the Olympics were disappointing. I’m not sure if they were commentating for laypeople (saying “Look at that finger strength!” half the time when the footwork and body position was actually much more interesting and impressive) or simply had no idea about climbing.
Also gives some idea of how "good or bad" holds are, or how the athletes kind of experience things mentally climbing up the wall. Enjoyed the reaction of: "This seems like a good hold as well. Or not.. haha!"
@Luisa De I think a lot of these climbers are actually friends, so it might be tough to judge how disrespectful a comment really is. But I agree, most climbers probably prefer being a beast than being a princess :)
But you have to wonder how much of that is due to the fact that she's not a native speaker. Of course, it's quite obvious that she is the plain honest type of person but wording your thoughts in an appropriate way in a foreign language is really difficult to learn. If we want commentators from all around the world sharing their expertise, we're going to have to forgive some of the unstrategic wording. Otherwise, we'll only have British, American, Canadian and Australian commentators on international channels.
@@katego370 This is it 100%. It's really difficult to understand and properly express the cultural nuances of a language which are changing constantly unless you speak it and live in that culture every single day, anyone who has spent time with a second language English speaker will have had this experience. She was trying to express that Lucka is a very elegant climber / competitor but 'princess like' is a much easier language reference for that concept for non native speakers.
Listen up, tv producers, go hire Stasa Gejo for commentating on the Olympics in 2024 if she doesn't end up qualifying herself. It will be an astronomical improvement on the Tokyo commentary. This woman actually knows what she's talking about, she's not just reading stats that she looked up.
Staša is really great as a commentator! Perhaps one day after she gets tired of crushing in bouldering she could be a full time commentator? Also. Janja is phenomenal! I mean, no joke, watching her climb I feel like a side character watching the main character dominate...
Stasa one of the best Co-Commentators. Good synergy and great insights by her. Janjas reaction was priceless when matt told her that she won the overall xD 1:13:08
@@BargainBinkey In Canada the CBC coverage of the climbing events was pretty good. I knew nothing about competitive climbing and the CBC commentators explained everything quite well and I picked up how things worked pretty quickly. 🙂 🙂 🙂
Janja is the Queen of climbing. Stasa is a Queen as a co-commentator. She and Matt work perfectly together. The Olympics were a disaster with the commentating. This is true professional quality.
Stasa Gejo is the most entertaining and insightful guest commentator! I couldn't skip forward in between climbs because her stories were so good. And the chemistry with Charlie 👌 Please can we keep her. Stasa for president.
Both Stasa and Matt were excellent and it's such a pleasure to hear a personal experience alongside professional commentary from Matt which makes the sport so much more accessible.
This is a unique situation where a comp can be rewatched not just for the climbing, but also for the commentary! Also, nobody's mentioning Natalia. She was second overall. Well done!
Really cool of Sasha to call out the reachy routesetting and then correct herself. We need more commentators who speak truth and also bring opinions to the table instead of sugarcoating.
With all due respect to men's final, when you see these girls how crazily good they are on this great wall ... and Janja while doing open flag on the blob and crimp ... ridiculous!! Entertaining! Congrats to all! PS: Stasa, so much fun in the commentator's seat! :-)
Always in love with Stasa Gejo's commentaries. Very detail & analytical but not too much - she knows exactly when we (the viewers) need more information about climbing and when to stop as we are in awe. I think she could be as phenomenal as Gill Clark (badminton commentator) someday ✌️ Anyway, Janja just realising she won the overall on the post match interview looks cute 😂
Men's time stamp DOMEN SKOFIC @1:21:01 AO YURIKUSA @1:25:50 MILAN PRESKAR @1:28:20 FEDIR SAMOILOV @1:32:43 SATONE YOSHIDA @1:40:50 SEBASTIAN HALENKE @1:44:10 LUKA POTOCAR @1:49:04 MASAHIRO HIGUCHI @1:54:11
Thats why climbing is amazing sport,, i dont ever enjoy women competition more than man in other sport, but i always enjoying man and women competition since first time i watch it 2010
I really can't understand the love for Stasa's commentating. In my opinion, it really distracts from the event and takes attention away from the climbers (where it should be). She often departs on long asides about her own climbing trips, college studies, etc. While that's interesting, and she's unquestionably super accomplished, that's not what I'm here for. I also thought many of Stasa's comments in the broadcast bordered on body shaming. Comments like: "she spends a lot of time on her looks" (it seemed pretty clear that she didn't mean that as a compliment), "she climbs like a princess", and "the skinny girls can't do powerful shoulder moves" should have no place in today's broadcast booths. If those comments had come from someone else, I think they would have been broadly (and rightfully!) condemned.
Yes, she talks a lot (she even said that herself - and I agree it can be *sometimes* distracting), but it gives climber's perspective on trainings, projects, competition, other climbers etc. I assume that other people prefer it, as do I, since climbing is such more than
To be clear, though, she didn't say that the climbers with weaker back muscles would struggle on those moves. She said "the skinny girls" couldn't do those moves. I think there's a pretty important difference there. I'm happy to give a 23 year-old the benefit of the doubt and assume her good intent (even though the tone and context of some of the comments certainly suggest a less-than-charitable intent). But, people in these comments are suggesting that the IFSC should induct her in to some kind of commentating hall of fame. You can't have it both ways here. Either she's a hall-of-fame level commentator, or she's a young person who's new to the scene and still figuring things out. Not both.
@@Olopnogitron I would have to disagree with you, Stasa didn’t really talk about herself all that much (especially when the athletes were on the wall) and her stories are mainly included because she knows the individual athletes so well, even more so than Matt who is the official commentator. The two of them have a great commentating chemistry and her comfort with being on air is unparalleled compared to the other guest commentators, which is something the vast majority of the viewers agree with. As for the way she spoke about the athletes, you have to realize two things: English is not her native language and she is European. She may not understand the nuances/subtleties of the way her words might be perceived by a native speaker, and Europeans are known for being blunt and straightforward whereas Americans will sugarcoat everything in an attempt to avoid potentially insulting someone. So taking those factors into consideration, understand that your perspective of the way she speaks is likely very different from hers and other Europeans’. Her comment about “skinny girls” was probably just referring to how some climbers like Janja are better at powerful moves while Chaehyun and Laura are more technical endurance climbers. It’s evident that Stasa has so much respect and admiration for every climber that competed, and I think reading too much into her exact word choice is just cherry picking for something negative.
Me while watching: Stasa is an amazing commentator! But comments are gonna be about Janja right? 😳😳😳 Me reading the comments: Nevermind, Stasa stole the show
I agree that she stole the show, but I don't think that's a good thing. We're here for the climbing and the climbers, not the commentating and the commentators (or, at least I am). I think Matt makes a great complement to the action, but I've always felt like Stasa's commentating crosses into territory where the broadcast feels more like its about the commentating rather than the climbing.
First, I'm going to agree with everyone else. Stasa Geho is so entertaining and insightful. Second, thank you for giving props to Takako Hoshi as well.(2:11:39) She really is a wonderful person and hard worker. I know she is always taking care of the Japanese climbers and is really good to them. I truly love that. She is a hero of mine. There is a video with her telling all kinds of interesting stories called The power of kindness with Takako Hoshi, if you want to learn more and hear some interesting stories.
Stasa such a great commentator!! Love watching comps that you commentate. Adds so much more to the whole thing. You are also a great climber and I love watching you climb too. So much talent:)
Stasa is great. I remember one of the girls joining Matt was so flabbergasted, basically she just giggled all the time, while Stasa is so damn professional, she predicts the moves with insane accuracy and provides really good insight. Also, when Matt left her in the box, she just kept commentating, not something regular. She is founding her commentating career these years.
Not to mention the fact that there would be language differences. Most of them are speaking their second (or third or fourth...) language when they commentate in English, so competitors like Stasa, who are several years older, probably also have more experience speaking English. I think Oriane laughed to compensate for moments when she couldn't express what she wanted to in English. I'm sure I am a much duller, more repetitive conversationalist when I am speaking languages that aren't my native language.
That's what you get in Slovenia essentially. And it's not because of some poverty thing or whatever. For Slovenia, it simply doesn't make sense to build grand and polished climbing venues, though perhaps with the sport getting more and more popular, it might happen. But the population is small, there's no great concentration of people in large metropolitan cities. just small towns dotted all over the country, with small climbing halls for locals..
Un-fucking-believable (sorry for swearing), in a sea of seasoned, amazingly talented athletes, Janja still reads more quickly the route, climbs faster and wins the whole thing. Mindblowing.
What happened to the audio for the first 15 minutes? Much of it was missing and then we just jumped straight into the commentary after Natsuki had started
Likely she just decided not to do any international comps this year, possibly because she has to quarantine every time she goes back to Japan, and possibly because she’s a senior in high school. She has been spotted in climbing gyms now and then.
There was supposed to be one more lead comp in Xiamen but it was cancelled, so this is the last one of this season. The IFSC app has the point calculations of the overall, you can see why Janja won there (3 golds = 300 points, which was more than anyone else’s score).
Each time competitors participated in world cup, they are given points. 100 for 1st place, 80 for 2nd place, 60 for 3rd place, 55 for 4th place, etc. Overall title is given to the athlete with the highest combined points at the end of the season.
Laura has some really insane strength/bodyweight ratio, big respect for that. But with all that respect I have to say her climbing is not nice to watch that much. She does not seem to climb efficiently (maybe it works for her, I don't know), every move is like forced or something, bumping every hold two or three times to get a better grip instead of being precise and having a nice flow. Furthermore she is doing quite a lot of mistakes and finally when she falls she is furious... It's like she is not even enjoying the competition, she just want to win. Just compare to Natalia, smiling all the time and enjoying every single move. Compare to Janja - the harder it gets the more satisfaction she shows at the end. Compare to every other comeptitor - they all are just enjoying the event even if they are not winners - they still are among the best in the world. BTW: Janja is probably the only climber in the world who can afford not to climb efficiently, I have literally no idea how is she doing that, she is just out of this world. :-)
Pretty soon they're going to ban climbing shoes as well. Joke aside though, I think it is good that they banned the knee pad rule. Knee bars can vary dramatically due to height, and allowing knee bars can give one athlete phenomenal rest while another gets none.
@@willmurrin9344 I don't see a problem as long as they are not rubberized to provide additional friction. No two persons body is the same so there will always be a difference, everybody compensates for themselves differently which is why climbing is an awesome sport.
Lucka as a princess works. I remember my daughter walking in and seeing her climbing once and asking me, 'She looks like a model - why is she climbing?'
Maybe take a look at the 2019 season before saying that lol, Chaehyun beat Janja 4 times and won the overall title. I don’t think she has anything to prove at this point, it’s just great to see climbers like her and Laura who genuinely challenge Janja in lead comps and push the standards on the women’s side ever higher.
@@ktape3211 I'm talking more about the mentality that the top athletes put themselves in, after Janja's overall she became the woman to beat, Also those who are involved in the sport and those who watch it closely knows how each and every athlete is special and amazing in their own way but the casual observer does not.
Men's setting would probably have worked great if the big names had been there. A little too hard here but still very acceptable. Good final and commentary overall.
@@cheznikos I agree, the setting was reasonable, if Jakob/Adam/Alex competed and Stefano/Sascha didn’t slip in semis we probably would have seen more of the route, but the difficulty was definitely ok, it would’ve been far worse if the route was set too easy instead.
@@ktape3211 I think the problem was there were a lot of falls on exactly the same (2) moves. Ideally you'd have a more consistent difficulty and a range of falling positions. It turned out all right in the end, but if Masahiro had fallen at the same move again it would have been a fairly unsatisfactory comp.
For me the commentary was exhausting again. Too much conversation between matt and stasa. Someone is in trouble on the wall and they talk about youth comps or projects or analyzing too much. The current action on the wall should be the main thing.
More have said it already but I just need to say it to, Stasa is a fantastic commentator. The way she analyzed and predicted the moves as they happened really gave an extra dimension to watching the competition.
I was just going to comment the same - and found I’m far from the only one! Also a big fan of Stasa, really great commentary every time she joins. If only we had Matt and Stasa/other climbers casting the olympics…
@@rbnhd Yeah, the commentators for the Olympics were disappointing. I’m not sure if they were commentating for laypeople (saying “Look at that finger strength!” half the time when the footwork and body position was actually much more interesting and impressive) or simply had no idea about climbing.
Stasa's great. I ended up watching a lot of the Olympics on mute I found it so frustrating. It didn't get much deeper than, 'doesn't that look hard'
Also gives some idea of how "good or bad" holds are, or how the athletes kind of experience things mentally climbing up the wall. Enjoyed the reaction of: "This seems like a good hold as well. Or not.. haha!"
I'm not agree. She's a lot of time talking about other things while climbers are in the wall. I don't like that.
"Lucka [Rakovec] looks like a princess, and rather climbs like one." - Stasa Gejo
Priceless.
'Janja is clumsy" -- Also Stasa Gejo (well the ground doesn't have holds like walls, so...)
@Luisa De I think a lot of these climbers are actually friends, so it might be tough to judge how disrespectful a comment really is. But I agree, most climbers probably prefer being a beast than being a princess :)
Ha yeah she was a bit ruthless sometimes
But you have to wonder how much of that is due to the fact that she's not a native speaker. Of course, it's quite obvious that she is the plain honest type of person but wording your thoughts in an appropriate way in a foreign language is really difficult to learn. If we want commentators from all around the world sharing their expertise, we're going to have to forgive some of the unstrategic wording. Otherwise, we'll only have British, American, Canadian and Australian commentators on international channels.
@@katego370 This is it 100%. It's really difficult to understand and properly express the cultural nuances of a language which are changing constantly unless you speak it and live in that culture every single day, anyone who has spent time with a second language English speaker will have had this experience. She was trying to express that Lucka is a very elegant climber / competitor but 'princess like' is a much easier language reference for that concept for non native speakers.
Listen up, tv producers, go hire Stasa Gejo for commentating on the Olympics in 2024 if she doesn't end up qualifying herself. It will be an astronomical improvement on the Tokyo commentary. This woman actually knows what she's talking about, she's not just reading stats that she looked up.
Staša is really great as a commentator!
Perhaps one day after she gets tired of crushing in bouldering she could be a full time commentator?
Also. Janja is phenomenal! I mean, no joke, watching her climb I feel like a side character watching the main character dominate...
Little details like 'you look for the swinging quick draws when you come out to see where the last climber fell' are GOLD from Stasa
Stasa one of the best Co-Commentators. Good synergy and great insights by her.
Janjas reaction was priceless when matt told her that she won the overall xD 1:13:08
Hearing her yell "I won the *overall* ?!?" just as it's cutting away lmaooooo
Finally, we are back to having incredible professional, insightful commentary so that we can forget about the disaster during the Olympics.
I’m sorry, but the commentary at the Olympics was a MASTERCLASS….(in how to tell everyone you have no idea who the climbers are)
@@BargainBinkey
In Canada the CBC coverage of the climbing events was pretty good. I knew nothing about competitive climbing and the CBC commentators explained everything quite well and I picked up how things worked pretty quickly. 🙂 🙂 🙂
Have a drink everytime he said "lactic acid"
The commentary was good for a wider audience
Super impressed by Stasa's commentaries. Her pronunciation of athletes' names were 100% accurate too: Laura, Masahiro, etc. Mad respect!
Her English has gotten a lot better now as well. Or maybe she’s just less nervous and more used to it by now :)
I want to have her commentating in every comp!
Timestamps:
Tournament highlights: 3:07
Women's Competitor walkout: 6:50
Tanii Natsuki: 12:10
Dinara Fakhritdinova: 18:38
Chaehyun Seo: 25:16
Lucka Rakovec: 32:40
Natalia Grossman: 41:39
Vita Lukan: 48:45
Laura Rogora: 55:06
Janja Garnbret: 1:01:16
Women's Podium: 1:09:55
Men's Competitor walkout: 1:15:55
Domen Skofic: 1:21:00
Ao Yurikusa: 1:25:50
Milan Preskar: 1:28:18
Fedir Samoilov: 1:32:49
Satone Yoshia: 1:40:48
Sebastian Halenke: 1:44:08
Luka Potocar: 1:48:57
Masahiro Higuchi: 1:54:12
Men's Podium: 2:00:20
Thanks Jai, have a nice week!
Thank you!
thanks captain
Janja is the Queen of climbing. Stasa is a Queen as a co-commentator. She and Matt work perfectly together. The Olympics were a disaster with the commentating. This is true professional quality.
Stasa Gejo is the most entertaining and insightful guest commentator! I couldn't skip forward in between climbs because her stories were so good. And the chemistry with Charlie 👌 Please can we keep her. Stasa for president.
Who's this Charlie? :)
Thanks, but I gotta compete sometimes too 😉 yeah, I did have chemistry with Mr. Boscoe, but this one is Matt, I can assure you 😆
Stasa for pres, that would be great. Slogan : bread and bouldering!
@@mattgroom5179 oops, sorry Matt 🤭 I tried to Google your name. How embarrassing.
Stasa for president for sure! Though Stasa competition vs commentating... for us viewers its the ultimate sophies choice 😅
I just love it when Staša joins Matt in the commentary box. Such fun! She should definitely be a regular, when she's not competing. :) Thank you both!
Are you sure Stasa wasn't the main commentator and Matt her guest ? 😉
@@gainsboulder7544 Well kick Matt out and put Oriane in :D Let the two climbers talk about climbing that'll be fun.
@@pclouds I think Stasa and Oriane would be mad cool!
Both Stasa and Matt were excellent and it's such a pleasure to hear a personal experience alongside professional commentary from Matt which makes the sport so much more accessible.
This is a unique situation where a comp can be rewatched not just for the climbing, but also for the commentary!
Also, nobody's mentioning Natalia. She was second overall. Well done!
Janja asking 'I won the overall?' in the end of the interview is a great moment :)
Stasa’s analysis was excellent. Bring her back anytime she doesn’t make finals.
Really cool of Sasha to call out the reachy routesetting and then correct herself. We need more commentators who speak truth and also bring opinions to the table instead of sugarcoating.
With all due respect to men's final, when you see these girls how crazily good they are on this great wall ... and Janja while doing open flag on the blob and crimp ... ridiculous!! Entertaining! Congrats to all!
PS: Stasa, so much fun in the commentator's seat! :-)
Always in love with Stasa Gejo's commentaries. Very detail & analytical but not too much - she knows exactly when we (the viewers) need more information about climbing and when to stop as we are in awe. I think she could be as phenomenal as Gill Clark (badminton commentator) someday ✌️
Anyway, Janja just realising she won the overall on the post match interview looks cute 😂
Staša is always more amazing than I thought. How many abilities can you master????? Countless hard works and talents.
Here to share some love for Masahiro! First win for him and so fantastic to see how much it means to him!!
Love to have Staša as co-commentator! Amazing competition, and love how clumsy Janja is. Makes her so human after her extraordinary performances.
I think Stasa needs to be a regular. Fun and insightful.
Men's time stamp
DOMEN SKOFIC @1:21:01
AO YURIKUSA @1:25:50
MILAN PRESKAR @1:28:20
FEDIR SAMOILOV @1:32:43
SATONE YOSHIDA @1:40:50
SEBASTIAN HALENKE @1:44:10
LUKA POTOCAR @1:49:04
MASAHIRO HIGUCHI @1:54:11
I hope Stasa reads all these comments, she’s so lovely and such great positive energy ❤️❤️
janja's move at 1:04:09 onwards gave me so much anxiety lol. congrats GOAT⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ 🐐🐐🐐🐐
It makes me smile seeing all the love for Staša
Higuchi was the only one to come out and studie the bottom more than the top. A true climber. Congrat, you deserve it. SALUTE !!
Anyone else also enjoying women's competition climbing more than men's lately?
always the case for me unless there is Yoshiyuki Ogata then I will watch mens :)
yes, janja and natalia are always my favourites to watch :)
Thats why climbing is amazing sport,, i dont ever enjoy women competition more than man in other sport, but i always enjoying man and women competition since first time i watch it 2010
That feeling when you accidentally win the overall. :'D
Not accidentally, that is for sure :-D
her reaction was priceless xD
I loved that.
Petition for Stasa to be the IFSC Commentator if she ever retires from competition.
I really can't understand the love for Stasa's commentating. In my opinion, it really distracts from the event and takes attention away from the climbers (where it should be). She often departs on long asides about her own climbing trips, college studies, etc. While that's interesting, and she's unquestionably super accomplished, that's not what I'm here for.
I also thought many of Stasa's comments in the broadcast bordered on body shaming. Comments like: "she spends a lot of time on her looks" (it seemed pretty clear that she didn't mean that as a compliment), "she climbs like a princess", and "the skinny girls can't do powerful shoulder moves" should have no place in today's broadcast booths. If those comments had come from someone else, I think they would have been broadly (and rightfully!) condemned.
Yes, she talks a lot (she even said that herself - and I agree it can be *sometimes* distracting), but it gives climber's perspective on trainings, projects, competition, other climbers etc. I assume that other people prefer it, as do I, since climbing is such more than
To be clear, though, she didn't say that the climbers with weaker back muscles would struggle on those moves. She said "the skinny girls" couldn't do those moves. I think there's a pretty important difference there.
I'm happy to give a 23 year-old the benefit of the doubt and assume her good intent (even though the tone and context of some of the comments certainly suggest a less-than-charitable intent). But, people in these comments are suggesting that the IFSC should induct her in to some kind of commentating hall of fame. You can't have it both ways here. Either she's a hall-of-fame level commentator, or she's a young person who's new to the scene and still figuring things out. Not both.
@@Olopnogitron I would have to disagree with you, Stasa didn’t really talk about herself all that much (especially when the athletes were on the wall) and her stories are mainly included because she knows the individual athletes so well, even more so than Matt who is the official commentator. The two of them have a great commentating chemistry and her comfort with being on air is unparalleled compared to the other guest commentators, which is something the vast majority of the viewers agree with.
As for the way she spoke about the athletes, you have to realize two things: English is not her native language and she is European. She may not understand the nuances/subtleties of the way her words might be perceived by a native speaker, and Europeans are known for being blunt and straightforward whereas Americans will sugarcoat everything in an attempt to avoid potentially insulting someone. So taking those factors into consideration, understand that your perspective of the way she speaks is likely very different from hers and other Europeans’. Her comment about “skinny girls” was probably just referring to how some climbers like Janja are better at powerful moves while Chaehyun and Laura are more technical endurance climbers. It’s evident that Stasa has so much respect and admiration for every climber that competed, and I think reading too much into her exact word choice is just cherry picking for something negative.
Me while watching: Stasa is an amazing commentator! But comments are gonna be about Janja right?
😳😳😳
Me reading the comments: Nevermind, Stasa stole the show
I agree that she stole the show, but I don't think that's a good thing. We're here for the climbing and the climbers, not the commentating and the commentators (or, at least I am). I think Matt makes a great complement to the action, but I've always felt like Stasa's commentating crosses into territory where the broadcast feels more like its about the commentating rather than the climbing.
Climbing starts at 12:40
„I won the overall? Ooops.“ 😄
Love Stasa‘s commentary! Funny and insightful! I also hate blocked crimps. It’s a crimp. Why block it?
First, I'm going to agree with everyone else. Stasa Geho is so entertaining and insightful.
Second, thank you for giving props to Takako Hoshi as well.(2:11:39) She really is a wonderful person and hard worker. I know she is always taking care of the Japanese climbers and is really good to them. I truly love that. She is a hero of mine. There is a video with her telling all kinds of interesting stories called The power of kindness with Takako Hoshi, if you want to learn more and hear some interesting stories.
I guess we have a new GOAT. Staša Gejo :D
The IFSC needs to have a hall of fame, and then have a commentator category just so we can give Stasa the credit she deserves :)
Love having Staša as a commentator.
Loving Stasa's commentary!
I'm not sure anyone noticed, but Stasa Gejo is great commentator!
Queen Janja…wow….congrats Natalia on a breakout year!!!!!
Stasa, the best commentator, always
Stasa such a great commentator!! Love watching comps that you commentate. Adds so much more to the whole thing. You are also a great climber and I love watching you climb too. So much talent:)
Stasa should commentate olympics next time please 🙏
Oh wait I wish her compete in the olympics instead!
Beautiful country, beautiful people, beautiful sport!
Stasa is great. I remember one of the girls joining Matt was so flabbergasted, basically she just giggled all the time, while Stasa is so damn professional, she predicts the moves with insane accuracy and provides really good insight. Also, when Matt left her in the box, she just kept commentating, not something regular. She is founding her commentating career these years.
Probably Oriane Bertone? I mean, Oriane is 16 and it's her first year of adult competition.
@@tiwi1361 I think it was indeed Oriane, but what a sweetheart- I remember she just kept saying "wowww, this is crazy!"
Not to mention the fact that there would be language differences. Most of them are speaking their second (or third or fourth...) language when they commentate in English, so competitors like Stasa, who are several years older, probably also have more experience speaking English. I think Oriane laughed to compensate for moments when she couldn't express what she wanted to in English. I'm sure I am a much duller, more repetitive conversationalist when I am speaking languages that aren't my native language.
Climbing starts at
women: 12:33
Men: 1:21:09
Just great to watch this competion. Thank you so much😘
서채현선수 25:17부터!!!
수고했어요!! 완전 멋집니다!!!!!!
Stasa is soooo amazing with commenting!!!
I like that eastern-block feeling of that tiny venue. Like a good old fashioned smelly windowless weight room!
That's what you get in Slovenia essentially. And it's not because of some poverty thing or whatever.
For Slovenia, it simply doesn't make sense to build grand and polished climbing venues, though perhaps with the sport getting more and more popular, it might happen.
But the population is small, there's no great concentration of people in large metropolitan cities. just small towns dotted all over the country, with small climbing halls for locals..
Just s great ride!! The Queen maintains her dominance!
Un-fucking-believable (sorry for swearing), in a sea of seasoned, amazingly talented athletes, Janja still reads more quickly the route, climbs faster and wins the whole thing. Mindblowing.
Pretty impressed by Stasa as a commentator. She could replace Matt 😅. And she sounds finally happy.
Gonna contribute another comment to say how much I love Stasa
Janja is a beast. Congrats to Luka too. :)
Worldcup in Kranj is the best.
Stasa is a fantastic commentator.
2:22:25 policeman winning overall lead, grats! :D
울 서채현 자랑스럽다! 수고 많았어요~^^ 웃는 모습이 넘 상콤하게 귀여워♡
What happened to the audio for the first 15 minutes? Much of it was missing and then we just jumped straight into the commentary after Natsuki had started
I can imagine Staša commenting in her native Serbian, such a beautiful, rich, expressive language.
25:20 서채현 (seo)
수고하셨습니다😍😍😍
얀야는 신인가..?
결승인가요? 알려주신 덕분에 잘 봤습니다. 안야 완등했는지요?
@@user-hc2bn3bx6l 네 결승이고
얀야 49/50 완등바로 전 홀드까지 갔습니다👍
The fact that after all these years they still don’t know to put timestamps in their videos angers me to no avail
서채현 선수 수고하셨어요
You rock
Stasa's comments were outstanding, we want her at every competition now :)
I wonder if Janja is tired of hearing her national anthem for the millionth time :D
She's not and that's why she's still at the top of the hill
채현선수 정말 잘하네요
자랑스러워요
이제 맘껏 실력을 보여주세요
Stasa ! 👍💪
Staša is so cool, I feel like we could be friends 🥺
52:24 that was eggciting
Where is Ai Mori?
Seriously, where is she? 👁
I’m patiently awaiting her return 🥲
I believe she recently started primary school, so big transitional period for her LOL
Likely she just decided not to do any international comps this year, possibly because she has to quarantine every time she goes back to Japan, and possibly because she’s a senior in high school. She has been spotted in climbing gyms now and then.
서채현 화이팅!!!!!
What's up with the hate on that wall, personally I think it looks way better and more exciting than the normal flat shit.
Completely agree, this is such an awesome wall!
Why did she won the Overall? There are still a few lead competitions in 2021 or aren't there?
There was supposed to be one more lead comp in Xiamen but it was cancelled, so this is the last one of this season. The IFSC app has the point calculations of the overall, you can see why Janja won there (3 golds = 300 points, which was more than anyone else’s score).
And in Moskau is a Differenz challenge?
@@flog.6329 Moskau is the World Championship, which doesn't count towards the World Cup season
How are the overall rankings calculated?
Each time competitors participated in world cup, they are given points. 100 for 1st place, 80 for 2nd place, 60 for 3rd place, 55 for 4th place, etc. Overall title is given to the athlete with the highest combined points at the end of the season.
Stasa is a fabulous commentator!
Laura has some really insane strength/bodyweight ratio, big respect for that. But with all that respect I have to say her climbing is not nice to watch that much. She does not seem to climb efficiently (maybe it works for her, I don't know), every move is like forced or something, bumping every hold two or three times to get a better grip instead of being precise and having a nice flow. Furthermore she is doing quite a lot of mistakes and finally when she falls she is furious... It's like she is not even enjoying the competition, she just want to win.
Just compare to Natalia, smiling all the time and enjoying every single move. Compare to Janja - the harder it gets the more satisfaction she shows at the end. Compare to every other comeptitor - they all are just enjoying the event even if they are not winners - they still are among the best in the world.
BTW: Janja is probably the only climber in the world who can afford not to climb efficiently, I have literally no idea how is she doing that, she is just out of this world. :-)
Can Stasa and Matt be the commentary every event? Or at least the ones she doesn't qualify.
I don't like the knee pad rule, it's going to get done at this level anyway, the rule just causes the athletes pain and bruises.
Pretty soon they're going to ban climbing shoes as well.
Joke aside though, I think it is good that they banned the knee pad rule. Knee bars can vary dramatically due to height, and allowing knee bars can give one athlete phenomenal rest while another gets none.
@@willmurrin9344 I don't see a problem as long as they are not rubberized to provide additional friction. No two persons body is the same so there will always be a difference, everybody compensates for themselves differently which is why climbing is an awesome sport.
Stasa best commentator ever!
Can someone explain me the points system?
8:49 why is there police on her hoodie?
심장 쫄깃하네요. 서채현선수 잘했어요.
More Stasa!
too much charm for any one person. It's ridiculous
More Stasa please
Lucka as a princess works. I remember my daughter walking in and seeing her climbing once and asking me, 'She looks like a model - why is she climbing?'
Whenever Stasa decides to retire, the IFSC better be begging to hire her
서채현 선수! 25:30
서채현 멋있다!!! !😎😎😎😎
서채현님 나오는 구간 이라네요 25:17
stasa gejo is great in co-commentary
I get the pressure Cheyun puts on herself, if you beat a legend once it's an accident, you need to do it twice to prove yourself indisputably.
Maybe take a look at the 2019 season before saying that lol, Chaehyun beat Janja 4 times and won the overall title. I don’t think she has anything to prove at this point, it’s just great to see climbers like her and Laura who genuinely challenge Janja in lead comps and push the standards on the women’s side ever higher.
@@ktape3211 I'm talking more about the mentality that the top athletes put themselves in, after Janja's overall she became the woman to beat, Also those who are involved in the sport and those who watch it closely knows how each and every athlete is special and amazing in their own way but the casual observer does not.
Girls start @12:14
서채현 25:14
the women's knees look so painful :(
Climbing starts at 12:40.
belaying with a figure of 8....interesting
And with the carabiner through the strong points!
Yeah, I noticed that. I think they usually do in Kranj - staunch traditionalists! They also let the climbers down pretty damn fast.
52:20 is this cheating? the announcer is shouting 'kneebar' to give her beta on the wall
edit: lol 'vita'
מישהו ראה את חזנוב? או שהוא סתם בclickbait
Great route setting on women’s final.
Terrible for men’s final.
Edit after seeing the finish: Higuchi saved the route setters some embarrassment.
Men's setting would probably have worked great if the big names had been there. A little too hard here but still very acceptable. Good final and commentary overall.
@@cheznikos I agree, the setting was reasonable, if Jakob/Adam/Alex competed and Stefano/Sascha didn’t slip in semis we probably would have seen more of the route, but the difficulty was definitely ok, it would’ve been far worse if the route was set too easy instead.
@@ktape3211 I think the problem was there were a lot of falls on exactly the same (2) moves. Ideally you'd have a more consistent difficulty and a range of falling positions. It turned out all right in the end, but if Masahiro had fallen at the same move again it would have been a fairly unsatisfactory comp.
How good is Stasa Gejo on the mic? Move aside Matt...
For me the commentary was exhausting again. Too much conversation between matt and stasa. Someone is in trouble on the wall and they talk about youth comps or projects or analyzing too much. The current action on the wall should be the main thing.
the mens final was a joke. really bad route setting.
even had the commentators talking about it. you know its bad when they say something