The fact that they won’t let Adam Ondra use a little footage for his vlogs is SO shortsighted. It’s the big names like Ondra that pull in new non-climbing viewers. If they wish to grow the sport then they should use the ambassadors of the sport to promote it for them. They won’t lose viewers, only gain.
@@uremawifenowdave if they were smart they would not make such bouldering worldccups ... where it's just tricky and has nothing to do with real bouldering
Some of the best rout setting I've ever seen in Men's lead climbing. Reminds me of Adam's win in 2016 where he was the only competitor to top. THIS is perfect rout setting. Not as much for the women's rout since they all fell reaching to the same hold. Just shows how hard rout setting is. Thank you IFSC. This was a great comp from qualifiers to finals.
The fact that they won’t let Adam Ondra use a little footage for his vlogs is SO shortsighted. It’s the big names like Ondra that pull in new non-climbing viewers. If you wish to grow the sport then use the ambassadors of the sport to promote it for you.
What's the point of not letting other people use this footage? Surely the ad revenue from this channel isn't that much. You guys should welcome the exposure of people like Adam using the footage.
Adam Ondra has an interesting TH-cam channel where he shows his trainning, climbing tips and highlights of Championships like this one. A few weeks ago iFSC asked him to stop showing clips from their competitions...
@@o.gingras He mentioned it in the episode of 'Road to tokio' where he comments the last boulder world champioinship of this season (Veil I think). Is the first time he couldn't use footage for the series.
Yes! It's so refreshing to see a full sporting event not locked behind a paywall. It's a great way to get people interested in the sport, and I hope the IFSC can continue to keep it free and open for years to come.
real shame about the women's finals so far this year, just really disappointing that there is virtually no separation in these finals competitions. god the men's final was electrifying though! incredible climbing all around, well done to Adam ondra - well deservedly extremely happy (good to see he wasn't too affected by the injury)
Boscoe and Langley on fire with their commentary this weekend. Good info great banter. You guys make what's already awesome to watch even better with your repartee Good work guys
I was leaning towards the screen of my PC, my hands and feet dripping with sweat! This is an extraordinary sport with extraordinary athletes like Adam Ondra. I was so nervous pushing him as he is my countryman but unlike me he looked focused, cool-headed and a level above the other competitors in terms of technique & endurance combined.
Really poor camera shot choices during some sequences. Wrong angle of the wall or random zoom ins on difficult moves where you'd want to see the bigger picture rather than just the climber's hand and face. Great event though.
The irony of everyone rallying around Adam Ondra being able to use this footage is that now he won't let anything from his videos be used even for legitimate fair use. Glad we all called on the IFSC to do the right thing while whoever manages Adam's videos won't.
Note to commentators: Chaehyun Seo's last name '서' is not pronounced 'see-oh' but 'suh' (as in the first part of the English word sun). The romanisation of Korean characters is a bit misleading... Great commentary otherwise!
@@nils4677 There was controversy on Thompson Smith's 42+ in semis. Many say she should have had only 42, same as Janja. In which case Janja would have qualified for final due to qualification count back. I read some comment (don't take this as true) that Slovenian team appealed but got rejected.
@@juhanikuronen6944 hm ok. Well, I mean she has enough titles this year already, doesn't she :D Would have liked to see her aswell, but I'm sure there's gonna be other WCS where she can win ;)
Yes it was very sad to see them mark it down, especially as almost everyone got 34+. She clearly held it even though it was very brief, what she did was definitely one better than all the climbers who failed while trying to reach it.
Agreed. She had more control of that hold than anyone, imo, and I can’t help but feel she got cheated. Lovely climber though, I’m sure she’ll have more good comps.
Route setting was excellent, especially for the men. A burly, physical, technical, aesthetic climb. Chapeau. A shame the women weren't better separated but the women's route looked excellent as well, I wouldn't fault the setters, in this case I agree it is just hard to get it dialed. The big shame this time was the judging. Janja should have been through in 8th place but do to inconsistent judging, Molly was awarded a better score for an inferior performance (reaching the same hold with less control and not having clipped).
First Agreed. She had more control than any other female finalist on that hold, and I feel like she was robbed. Beautiful climb on her part though, just poor judging.
I always found great to climb with music on, there's music 24/7 in our climbing gym and if I were in a comp I'd probably want music too, helps you focus instead of just hearing the crowd shouting stuff...
wow. I've never seen proffecional rock climbing. I rock climb just like normal people, when you are on a vacation and want to do it bc its cheap. I have been trying to work harder but just imagining the grip in one's fingers to hold onto those hand holds is just painful!
@IFSC Not allowing Ondra to use your footage (only his climbs) is extremely stupid both form point of view of distribution and marketing / PR communication, but also from a business point of view. You guys need to learn about influencer marketing and role of ambassadors of sport. You can only gain by Adam showing your content, only thing you need to assure is proper mention of source material and have a mention of your TH-cam channel there. Person who is responsible for such a move (prohibiting Ondra from using your footage) should be kicked out of his/her job immediately and you should hire professional agency / marketing or PR professionals.
IFSC I must say the fact that you don’t let athletes use footages of their performances to create great content for their TH-cam looks like a decision from 2008 when people didn’t get internet and the power of it. Come on be modern because for now you look like terrible silly persons making bad decisions in an office.
Let all competitors re-use your footage for their social media or youtube! Youre taking food out of their mouths when you revoke stuff like that. They have to make a living somehow and sponsors just dont do it sometimes
Its legal problem in that if you let anyone use footage then you must let everyone use it and commercial interests will repackage it and even manipulate it.
Solution Comp. It is supposed to be a little softer Solution with a new heel. Thinner, more sensitive and lower volume. Look Up the Videos of La Sportiva, Scarpa, Five Ten etc on the Outdoor 2019 which has just gone by.
@@HimanXK Based on IFSC Rules 2019 Version No 1.9.2 Date March 2019 Artificial Aid means Controlling or Using any of the following: (a) any “T-Nut” placements provided for the fixing of artificial holds; (b) any part of the Climbing Surface demarcated as out of bounds; (c) any advertising or informational placards fixed to the Climbing Surface; (d) any open side or top edges to the Climbing Surface; (e) any bolt hangar fixed to the Climbing Surface; or (f) any Protection Point or the climbing rope;
@@HimanXK That "a second" means "use" in my opinion because helped him to clip. Although I'm not saying that it's definitly an artificial aid, if I were the judge I would count it as an artificial aid.
when Janja makes the finals: “And here comes Adam..... maybe possibly will be remembered as a strong climber in the future” When janja doesn’t make the finals: “Adam Ondra!!! The best climber of all time!!!”
I’m assuming you meant Janja in the first quote there, I think because she is so you she hasn’t quite earned that level of wonder yet, but with the ascent of silence and his usual dominance, Adam has already cemented his greatness
Marc Cowan no, I mean Adam in both quotes. It was a sarcastic analysis of the announcers and nothing to do with the climbers themselves. Get with the program. Also, I think a huge number of the community would agree Janja has done more than enough to cement herself as a “great”. Being comparatively young to the scene doesn’t make her any less dominant, and I believe only adds to her legacy. Thanks for playing!
Jake Snow I think most people would agree that to be an all time great you have to show dominance for a prolonged period of time, anyone can have a breakout season and perform exceptionally once (and I’m in no way saying that’s what this was for Janja), so on that basis I think it’s a bit too early to put Janja up there
I agree Janja is amazingly dominant and can be considered the greatest woman competitive climber of all time, but its difficult to compare her to the men on an equal footing. One way is to look at absolute grading achievements. In terms of outdoor climbing achievements, Adam is dominating everybody while Janja has not been extremely prolific in this area. Personally, I would safely say Adam is the best climber ever so far but I understand that it is somewhat a subjective matter.
The feed director/whoever controls the camera angles needs to be fired. So many stupid angles being shown at all the wrong times. Just let us watch the climbers climb. We don’t need to see close-ups of their faces as they make the moves. We don’t need to see a side angle where we can’t even see where their hands are moving. Use some common sense.
![[MIRRORED] LISA - ROCKSTAR 🎸 MV version #LISA #BLACKPINK #ROCKSTAR](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-U58DuCCtZk/mqdefault.jpg)
Let Adam Ondra use footage from your events!
Let other people use the footage from these events!
Let Adam Ondra use footage from your events
The fact that they won’t let Adam Ondra use a little footage for his vlogs is SO shortsighted. It’s the big names like Ondra that pull in new non-climbing viewers. If they wish to grow the sport then they should use the ambassadors of the sport to promote it for them. They won’t lose viewers, only gain.
@@uremawifenowdave if they were smart they would not make such bouldering worldccups ... where it's just tricky and has nothing to do with real bouldering
@@uremawifenowdave i literately started watching rock climbing , because of adam.
@@uremawifenowdave I found adam ondra . And now climbing is a huge passion if mine
to come back from an injury and still win, what an absolute legend...
Some of the best rout setting I've ever seen in Men's lead climbing. Reminds me of Adam's win in 2016 where he was the only competitor to top. THIS is perfect rout setting. Not as much for the women's rout since they all fell reaching to the same hold. Just shows how hard rout setting is. Thank you IFSC. This was a great comp from qualifiers to finals.
Let other use footage if you want the sport to gain more popularity. Think long term you grubs.
The fact that they won’t let Adam Ondra use a little footage for his vlogs is SO shortsighted. It’s the big names like Ondra that pull in new non-climbing viewers. If you wish to grow the sport then use the ambassadors of the sport to promote it for you.
You grubs 😂
uhhhm they should be able to? it falls under fair use if its on youtube lol
"seemingly no knee bar, the setters have measured it perfectly"
Adam Ondra: Im about to end this mans whole career
LAS haha!
🤣🤣
1:27:36 for Megos' split. Amazing!
Men's was absolutely gripping. I was on the edge of my chair when Adam climbed, palms and feet sweaty!
Mum's spaghetti
Did you realize they called the Ondra the best all around climber of all time? Have they forgotten about Janja?
@@EGbean2 There is a reason women and men are separated, you know. Body difference. So it might seem rude, but it's the truth.
@@kardnails8729 yeah there's body differences, but Janja is still the best climber on the planet
@@EGbean2 See grade 9c. Return to comment. Edit. Adjust your claim.
I was rooting for Megos but I have so much respect for all the other climbers, especially Ondra
What's the point of not letting other people use this footage? Surely the ad revenue from this channel isn't that much. You guys should welcome the exposure of people like Adam using the footage.
Could you please explain what's happening?
Adam Ondra has an interesting TH-cam channel where he shows his trainning, climbing tips and highlights of Championships like this one. A few weeks ago iFSC asked him to stop showing clips from their competitions...
@@NLGplays I see, thank you! I didn't see any mentions from Adam, how do you guys know?
I think pros/competitors should be able to post their climbs, it totally helps promote ifsc.
@@o.gingras He mentioned it in the episode of 'Road to tokio' where he comments the last boulder world champioinship of this season (Veil I think). Is the first time he couldn't use footage for the series.
Thanks to all involved in the producing this and putting it on you tube as a free to watch event. Spot on.
Yes! It's so refreshing to see a full sporting event not locked behind a paywall. It's a great way to get people interested in the sport, and I hope the IFSC can continue to keep it free and open for years to come.
those Megos splits though
Best men’s final I can remember. And particularly enjoyable commentary from Charlie and Mike.
Women's final 15:25
Men's final 1:25:30
Guillermo Martinez thanks
real shame about the women's finals so far this year, just really disappointing that there is virtually no separation in these finals competitions. god the men's final was electrifying though! incredible climbing all around, well done to Adam ondra - well deservedly extremely happy (good to see he wasn't too affected by the injury)
Boscoe and Langley on fire with their commentary this weekend. Good info great banter. You guys make what's already awesome to watch even better with your repartee
Good work guys
What an amazing show, thank you, IFSC, this is the real final, much better than the competition last week, Adam Ondra is incredible.
alberto's attempt was awesome
Well done Molly,the background to the wall is absolutely stunning
I was leaning towards the screen of my PC, my hands and feet dripping with sweat! This is an extraordinary sport with extraordinary athletes like Adam Ondra. I was so nervous pushing him as he is my countryman but unlike me he looked focused, cool-headed and a level above the other competitors in terms of technique & endurance combined.
Climbing starts at 15:30
The real hero here.
Always coming to comments and search for the hero who gives this information
Thank you
Just here to give credits to the heros
Megos splits and I swear Adam Ondre damn near broke his ankle at the end there. Fantastic efforts!
omg, Ashima is back
Todos son muy increíbles, mi admiración para todos.
Wow, completely stunned by Lopez!
I dont understand why Adam Ondra can't use footage of the event if you guys upload it FOR FREE as well...?
내 손에 땀이 다 나네~~~~선수들 기량 멋집니다.
Really poor camera shot choices during some sequences. Wrong angle of the wall or random zoom ins on difficult moves where you'd want to see the bigger picture rather than just the climber's hand and face. Great event though.
Adam is the greatest climber to ever live and it isn't even close.
Nice to see that its not only my belay partners that short rope before the first clip!
I love Tanii.
Ashima came back!
Ondra you absolute Unit.
They should have let Janja climb, just to show the top part of the route...
why wasn't she competing?
@@anklebreaka03 she was, she simply did not make it through semis, placing 9th.
Lmao were so used to seeing her topping everything that when shes not in the finals it feels strange
The irony of everyone rallying around Adam Ondra being able to use this footage is that now he won't let anything from his videos be used even for legitimate fair use. Glad we all called on the IFSC to do the right thing while whoever manages Adam's videos won't.
서채연 자랑스럽다!!!
Let the athletes show footage from the events they're participating at! Guess what you'd be without them?? Nothing!
Note to commentators:
Chaehyun Seo's last name '서' is not pronounced 'see-oh' but 'suh' (as in the first part of the English word sun). The romanisation of Korean characters is a bit misleading...
Great commentary otherwise!
저도 쎄오 라고해서 거북했어요
финал без Яньи какой-то пресный. Яничка, удачи на следующем этапе!!!!
Kinda sucks that they couldn't create separation between the women
Sometimes that also comes down to a bit of luck though right?
olafminesaw2 If they didn't screw Janja out of the finals women's would have been more interesting.
@@secret5. How did they screw her out?
@@nils4677 There was controversy on Thompson Smith's 42+ in semis. Many say she should have had only 42, same as Janja. In which case Janja would have qualified for final due to qualification count back. I read some comment (don't take this as true) that Slovenian team appealed but got rejected.
@@juhanikuronen6944 hm ok. Well, I mean she has enough titles this year already, doesn't she :D
Would have liked to see her aswell, but I'm sure there's gonna be other WCS where she can win ;)
WTF why jessi don't have 35? She was the only to hold!
Yes it was very sad to see them mark it down, especially as almost everyone got 34+. She clearly held it even though it was very brief, what she did was definitely one better than all the climbers who failed while trying to reach it.
Agreed. She had more control of that hold than anyone, imo, and I can’t help but feel she got cheated. Lovely climber though, I’m sure she’ll have more good comps.
Route setting was excellent, especially for the men. A burly, physical, technical, aesthetic climb. Chapeau. A shame the women weren't better separated but the women's route looked excellent as well, I wouldn't fault the setters, in this case I agree it is just hard to get it dialed. The big shame this time was the judging. Janja should have been through in 8th place but do to inconsistent judging, Molly was awarded a better score for an inferior performance (reaching the same hold with less control and not having clipped).
Speaking of bad judging, Jessie Pilz should have won this as the only climber who actually reached 35, while all the others only got 34+
First Agreed. She had more control than any other female finalist on that hold, and I feel like she was robbed. Beautiful climb on her part though, just poor judging.
love the drop at 2:08:32
Jessi Pilz truly held that. If she was able to stay on for that long and readjust her hand it should be awarded as 35
Some of those ill-timed close-ups and silly camera angles just detract from the action.
They might not've let Adam use the footage - but they put it out here free for us. Thank you IFSC!
서채현 파이팅.. korea
Jessy was 35 imo :/
와우~~ 와우~~ 서채현 대견하다 ㅠㅜ 감격
I will never understand why they play music when someone is climbing in a final
I always found great to climb with music on, there's music 24/7 in our climbing gym and if I were in a comp I'd probably want music too, helps you focus instead of just hearing the crowd shouting stuff...
keeps crowd pumped
Camera work during Sean Mccoll wasn't great.
Yep, too much close up that cuts off the key limbs that in the move. The final splits that cause his fall wasn't captured at all. That's sad.
All side views were crappy.
서채연 53:18 부분시작
2: 20:10 여자시상식
1위 서채연
Had to watch the replay, since the livestream constantly freezes. Any idea why the IFSC WC livestreams keeps freezing?
Sounds like a problem with your internet. I've never had that issue with IFSC livestreams.
@@elizabeth8720 Thought so too, but I only have problems with the IFSC livestream and no other youtube streams or internet things....
what are the x's on many of the holds for? is it for the route-setters?
ondra: 2:04:43
regis portalez thank you
wow. I've never seen proffecional rock climbing. I rock climb just like normal people, when you are on a vacation and want to do it bc its cheap. I have been trying to work harder but just imagining the grip in one's fingers to hold onto those hand holds is just painful!
What belay device is used by belayer (e.g. at 21:00)?
adam ondra 2:05:10
oof... those awkward cheek kisses... 😳
@IFSC Not allowing Ondra to use your footage (only his climbs) is extremely stupid both form point of view of distribution and marketing / PR communication, but also from a business point of view. You guys need to learn about influencer marketing and role of ambassadors of sport. You can only gain by Adam showing your content, only thing you need to assure is proper mention of source material and have a mention of your TH-cam channel there. Person who is responsible for such a move (prohibiting Ondra from using your footage) should be kicked out of his/her job immediately and you should hire professional agency / marketing or PR professionals.
Megos: "SCHEISSE!" :)
Let other use footage from the events.
53:19
What's a 'neutral'? Is it something like a muggle?
Generally someone who's not supporting any climbers based on their country of origin
@@adamedgerley9802 Thanks!
Can someone tell me all champioships with alex or adam in it... Ty
Best worldcup of the year
Q pasa con los cámaras, planos de espaldas y de volúmenes..... nos perdemos las movidas, pasos, manos pies todo
50:30 What a sexy clip, brilliant
...Also, let Ondra use your footage again. Pretty Please.
Does anyone know the name of the song that plays when ondra starts climbing? Starts with some great bells
Brett Ford run boy run - woodkid
ㄷㄷ 이걸 1등했네 다 같은곳에서 떨어졌는데 시간으로. 그리고 아담은 아담이다.
I will create a parody video using this footage.
53:10 Chaehyun SEO (KOR)
Man! Why switching camera angles all the time?!
SEO is pronounced like SUH
So they are playing robbie williams in the world cup final. i would be pissed.
It's a world cup, can't they bother to take the extra bolts off the wall?
Not necessarily climbing related but does anybody know the name of the song that starts at 44:10?
If I'm not mistaken its the Freemasons & Bailey Tzuke's cover of "Uninvited", originally by Alanis Morissette.
You're the greatest, this is it! Thanks a lot :)
Will goes to the same climbing gym as me 😁😁
21:00 what's the point of short roping someone before the first clip
i'm getting sore just watching
IFSC I must say the fact that you don’t let athletes use footages of their performances to create great content for their TH-cam looks like a decision from 2008 when people didn’t get internet and the power of it. Come on be modern because for now you look like terrible silly persons making bad decisions in an office.
Let all competitors re-use your footage for their social media or youtube! Youre taking food out of their mouths when you revoke stuff like that. They have to make a living somehow and sponsors just dont do it sometimes
Its legal problem in that if you let anyone use footage then you must let everyone use it and commercial interests will repackage it and even manipulate it.
Anyone knows what shoes Adam is wearing? New Skwama?
Solution Comp. It is supposed to be a little softer Solution with a new heel. Thinner, more sensitive and lower volume.
Look Up the Videos of La Sportiva, Scarpa, Five Ten etc on the Outdoor 2019 which has just gone by.
@@philipppuchner1115 thank you!
No Janja in finals?
She placed 9th in the semis :(
Mori Ai 27:40
LET ADAM ONDRA USE FOOTAGE FROM YOUR EVENTS
Adam Ondra final run 2:04:26
Without Janja, without soul.
Doesn't Janja have more world cup wins than Jakob?
Its Charmoniiiii not Charmmmmoni
I get that announcing is a hard job, but please stop saying the same 5 lines over and over.
2:02:41 seems an artificial aid to me!
Exactly my thoughts too!
What do you mean?
@@HimanXK Based on IFSC Rules 2019 Version No 1.9.2 Date March 2019
Artificial Aid means Controlling or Using any of the following:
(a) any “T-Nut” placements provided for the fixing of artificial holds;
(b) any part of the Climbing Surface demarcated as out of bounds;
(c) any advertising or informational placards fixed to the Climbing Surface;
(d) any open side or top edges to the Climbing Surface;
(e) any bolt hangar fixed to the Climbing Surface; or
(f) any Protection Point or the climbing rope;
@@mahdisamei3331 I didn't seem him use the clip for help though, it just looked like his hand got caught for a second
@@HimanXK That "a second" means "use" in my opinion because helped him to clip.
Although I'm not saying that it's definitly an artificial aid, if I were the judge I would count it as an artificial aid.
when Janja makes the finals:
“And here comes Adam..... maybe possibly will be remembered as a strong climber in the future”
When janja doesn’t make the finals:
“Adam Ondra!!! The best climber of all time!!!”
I’m assuming you meant Janja in the first quote there, I think because she is so you she hasn’t quite earned that level of wonder yet, but with the ascent of silence and his usual dominance, Adam has already cemented his greatness
Marc Cowan no, I mean Adam in both quotes. It was a sarcastic analysis of the announcers and nothing to do with the climbers themselves. Get with the program. Also, I think a huge number of the community would agree Janja has done more than enough to cement herself as a “great”. Being comparatively young to the scene doesn’t make her any less dominant, and I believe only adds to her legacy. Thanks for playing!
Jake Snow
I think most people would agree that to be an all time great you have to show dominance for a prolonged period of time, anyone can have a breakout season and perform exceptionally once (and I’m in no way saying that’s what this was for Janja), so on that basis I think it’s a bit too early to put Janja up there
@@JakeMsnow you sound obnoxious lol
I agree Janja is amazingly dominant and can be considered the greatest woman competitive climber of all time, but its difficult to compare her to the men on an equal footing. One way is to look at absolute grading achievements. In terms of outdoor climbing achievements, Adam is dominating everybody while Janja has not been extremely prolific in this area. Personally, I would safely say Adam is the best climber ever so far but I understand that it is somewhat a subjective matter.
Watch these in 1.5x speed. Well better.
Isaacsmile Agree to disagree... You miss some of the finer points of the beta if you watch it sped up imo...
Love the commentators but they completely mispronounced Chaehyun Seo's name :(
The camera in Chemonix sucked. This side camera that the director was using all the time didn´t make it a lot of fun to watch.
The feed director/whoever controls the camera angles needs to be fired. So many stupid angles being shown at all the wrong times. Just let us watch the climbers climb. We don’t need to see close-ups of their faces as they make the moves. We don’t need to see a side angle where we can’t even see where their hands are moving. Use some common sense.
2:10:30 LOL