Insights into the KSL Shot Cycle or NTS System You Won't Find Anywhere Else
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ธ.ค. 2024
- Living with Kisik Lee for almost a decade training under his guidance full time offers a depth of insight into his archery shooting style that needs to be shared. I do my best to offer the inner workings of the KSL Shot Cycle on a level that can help put the pieces together to help make you a better archer.
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Great sharing. Im a former compound archer now shooting barebow n this is exactly how i shoot.
Never realized if others were so obsessed with keeping the point / pin on the target during draw.
Actually this is covered the best by George Ryals.
Many compound archers focus on the sight / bow while drawing and search for the target. The best however keep their eye on the target and the scope just comes in to view after anchoring.
"clicker conditioning" can be very strong. I had a friend who was drawing the bow in his dorm room to check his form in the mirror and when it clicked he shot a hole in the dorm window.
I always learned to draw and anchor, then aim then execute the shot. I was not good at setting the clicker on the point so I would have to draw farther to go through the clicker and this took me longer to shoot, but I learned to positively pull through the clicker. I dabbled with compound and release a little bit but I wasn't good with it, I even shot compound and fingers in NFAA field archery and did pretty well but it took a lot more discipline to work with the clicker.
Both disciplines are much closer than it is led to believe and it is a pitty that they are approached from such diferent perspectives. Great content, I hope it is not the last one on this topic.
Wow the space looks great!
It helps immensely. Just took a class with an instructor for the second time and he said the sequence you are referring to but not in your terms. His was just from his experience and sharing notes with other archers. But it was the same and it made a lot of difference in my shooting thank you
FASCINATING... having heard that it all makes sense, can't believe the thinking is so recent and down to one individual - I thought there was going to be 100s of years of Korean 'archery' wisdom behind the KSL cycle.
The 100s of years of Korean archery wisdom is in the way the sequence is riding the breathing cycle - the wisdom comes in subtle details, not in chunks
I started with barebow in 1975. String walking wasn’t allowed back then, so you used gap shooting. I was taught this: Eye the target and find your aiming spot. Set your hook, bow hand position, go to full draw, anchor and transfer, without aiming. I used to look at the arrow rest, about the same way I look at the clicker today. Find your aiming point, that point could be the bottom of the butt sometimes. Look at where you want the arrow to go. Then pull, pull, pull. The pulling part is the hardest. A constant struggle.
In my mind, aiming when you pull back the string is a fast route to target panic.
Can't tell you how much this explanation helps my recurve students struggling with some of the mental understanding and the importance of holding. Thanks again!
Excellent!! A much needed take on the shot process.
Yup.. been doing similar process on my own since 90's.. now I teach the same, once the archer is at anchor point they should 1.anchor, 2. Aim & 3. Release the shot..
😄
Awesome Jake!!!
So clear discrete steps. The phrase "hit the wall" is perfect. You lock right there like compounds, get stable and then aim.
Thanks!!!
Thank you Jake! This video is going to help me not only teach the similarities in the two styles, but also why the KSL shot cycle is so effective and biomechanically safe to shoot! I have a student who's been shooting with a linear style for a while now, and I've tried to introduce an angular motion to him. I also have new students who I am just now introducing the KSL shot cycle to, and this will be a good introduction before letting them continue on.
Thank you Jake, I have learnt so much just watching your videos. I am improving faster than some ppl that have been learning for much longer than I have. I am new to this hobby?
Thanks!
👍
Good stuff and interesting food for thought.
👍…I find your content to be entertaining and informational as well.
Good Video. I shoot a compound, "i am a 3D guy". Me and my wife are coaches for my Parish 4H shooting sports archery program. I learned about this NTS system a few months ago. Took an online training seminar by Frank McDonah. This method is by far the best of both worlds. We have Genisis, Recurve and Compound shooters. With just a tad of "tweaking" for the younger kids this is a great way to coach them no matter what style bow they have. I have watched a lot of your vids as well, very good job with them. I have learned a lot from using this system as well. Keep up the great videos!
My man, I freaking love you and your knowledge!
I'm new at archery, and I'm gonna admit I'm nowhere as close as good as you are, but I've been watching your videos and following the advise you and your wife give, and I've been improving way better than the rest of my classmates (we only go a few hours on Saturdays, but the rest of the week I try to practice following your videos).
Thanks and keep on with the great work!!!
Regarding the Korean, not all of them aimed first then aiming+drawing. If you look at Yun Mi Jin : th-cam.com/video/2P7B1kUGmT4/w-d-xo.html . What I heard directly from her seminar at the time , was that setting the sight above the target and draw the sight into aim near the end of draw cycle. I heard 2 other Korean coaches mentioned about this way of drawing and aiming, as well as coaches from Taiwan and Singapore. The first time I heard about aim first then maintain the aim while drawing was actually from Australia, and this appeared to be what Western Archer believed to be the "Korean Method".
I may have missed this somewhere but I would love to see the NTS system applied to Trad or longbow as well with most of us using the tooth anchor point. As usual though love the wealth of information you put out there
I am a former recurve shooter in my teen and college years decades ago. I recently was and will be again, a compound shooter ages 60+. I aspire to be an advanced-level archer. Thanks for these helpful tips.
Great video! I’ve always taught “no aim until after transfer” but never thought about the compound connection. Now that you’ve explained it, it’s totally obvious. Of course they don’t aim until full draw, they simply can’t!
Well done, you are a great teacher.
You have helped add knowledge I haven't picked up from my copy of Total Archery .
Great video. I was coached the push-n-pull style at the beginning and then changed to KSL style. There are few things I think misinterpreted. When shooting push-and-pull, it's same with KSL, archers are taught not to aim actively during the draw, the key difference is the shoulders are aligned before and during the drawing to ensure consistency, no other body movement(core and shoulder) is allowed. When you draw in that posture, only few muscles are engaged, drawing the bow is already very hard hence it is nearly impossible to resistant outside disturbs. This style helps beginners shoot well so fast when they start to learn using low poundage bows, because in KSL you need much more trainning to have consistent rotating and transfer. But for intermediate shooter, drawing a high poundage bow in that unnatural posture makes it really hard to keep shoulders still. Top archers with heavy trainning could overcome that, especially male archers like KimwooJim, but for those shoot for fun, under push-and-pull style there is a ceiling that they can shoot well (about 32-36 pound), Then I moved to KSL style and find I can still improve my technique and increase poundage. If you want to learn archery very quickly and only intend to shoot 10 or 18 metres, push and pull is a good start. For those who intend to persue further, but unable to train heavyly, KSL style is defenitely better.
thank you very much for the coaching , it is tremendously best advise i ever seen.
Kirsik Lee ... that's the author of "Total Archery"? ...the book is available as download for little $$$ ... changed my shooting (compound) wrt stand, anchoring etc. after reading it ...people telling me now I would overdraw...but I won't go back as the gain in steadiness, stability and therefore accuracy was dramatic....
Awesome!! Now I understand much better the general idea of the system!! 👏👏👏 You are Great explaining!! Thank so much!
An excellent very helpful video for anyone struggling to learn how they will aim a recurve.
I took up Olympic recurve during Covid, a new challenge for a compound shooter. What you say is what I pretty much did, knowing no better. Had a lot of help along the way at my club, but this makes me feel much happier about my approach. I always have aimed last!
Really worth waiting for. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the history of the method. That was good to know. Awesome stuff as usual.
So, for me, its hit the wall, string align aim and don't mind your target panic 😂.
Another great video, Jake - thank you!
Thank you, Jake.
I shot recurve for a couple years in Korea then I lost my index finger in an accident. Later, I moved to compound and I realize the same thing. Now. I come back to recurve from time to time with years of compound experience, I performed even better than I did in the past.
I told my colleagues exactly the same theory/fact like you mentioned, they did not trust me. They claim it hard to do OMG. Now, I have you to explain to them.
Really happy to hear your insight. My club is very "oldschool" linear drawing style. I switched to the KSL shotcycle about a year ago which makes me have so much less pain and way less stress on my muscles.
Thanks for the vid, it gives me another view again on the load and transfer parts!
Very interesting. Ty.
Hi Jake. Awesome video. I have used many of your suggestions and it has greatly improved my Archery. Looking forward to seeing how your studio has progress. Keep up the good work
Well explained thx
Great video topic! Had a lot of discussion about this im my club recently. In my opinion KSL shot cycle is biomechanical more safe to shoot, with lesser stress for shoulders and other joints. I just upgraded my Barebow with your grip from RCore. Love it!
Really good knowledge,
Hi Jake. just been watching some old footage from 10 years ago and you can clearly see the difference that you describe and the difference it makes to the grouping. I learnt to shoot archery using compound myself and now shoot barebow and i have also transferred the same system to shooting that and my groups are really good as a result. also noticed the sound difference you described between the Asian bows and the American more of a ping rather than the American swoosh, almost sounds like they are using much softer limbs.
interesting theory and intrigging details
Great explanation!
awesome video. I don't shoot much traditional, but definitely don't aim till I'm at full draw.
This is genius. Thank you so much :)
Great video and will help me with my journey with Barebow 👍🏿
When he said string alignment just before shooting, what does one actually do to adjust it?
Move your draw hand?
Tilt your head?
How is the adjustment actually performed?
Great videos, thank you
Too many people are so brainwashed to dwell on differences than see, learn & grow by known what makes us similar.
Would love to hear your thoughts (make a video) on the 2022 Lancaster Classic Barebow class. Specifically how do you explain the success of some of the finalists with very unorthodox form.
repetition
11:21 How much let-off does this bow have? As far as I know it's very possible to derail a compound if you draw back with fingers, specially high let-off bows.
Thats if you have no idea what your doing and you twist the string at full draw and go to let down. Never had an issue myself, usually happens at proshops with new people "trying" bows on the wall/rack.
How to adjust string alignment at full draw before transfer by fiddling with the finger tension, biceps tension or head position?
yes, great video. I coach, and have a large number of compounders who put down nts as , well, not the way to do it. It is mostly due to ignorance of biomechanics, and that good form allows a repeatable shot. You showed a good parallel between both styles. Several of my college archers will come to me quoting your videos. Keep at it.
Hi, Great Bow info. here, NOT many try to explain archery as you do, J.K. THX, Q: Are you near the ::: Gator Bowmen Archery Range ::: only wonder ? ...
Jake this is super interesting. Thanks for continuing to share so much with us. Curious question for you. I notice you always have the AAE ball cap on. Do you use this just for comfort from the sun or is it integrated into your anchor? I would suspect the latter but am curious as to your reasoning.
Jake do you know how many actual turns you can go out on a win win Tftg riser from the shipped medium position ?
KSL....this is the way
Good video, only thing I would disagree with is yes compound shooters are better at target archery but i've never seen compound shooters do stuff like shoot aspirin out of the air the way Ron Laclair or Byron Ferguson do.
Thanks Jake. One question: when shooting a recurve with a clicker, do you start aiming right before or after the clicker clicks?
Before
One question, Jake, in barebow style archery, how do we know when we reach the exact draw length without the help of a clicker as in Olympic style does? I find it challenging to keep my draw length consistent as many subtle things change biomechanically each time I draw the bow, whether it is my arms, head, muscles, etc. Thanks a lot.
Solid alignment, solid anchor point, a lot of practice. Won't ever be as consistent as a compound because it has a built in draw length stopper.
Jake, quick barebow question, I have a 28” draw , I’m 5 ft 7”, shooting about 34-36 pounds off the fingers , just bought a 25” atfx riser . With Medium limbs , my string touches my chest at my draw. Should I be shooting short limbs?.
What are you feeling at full draw on olympic recurve/barebow that would suggest you are at full draw? It's not to the point of not being able to squeeze your back, correct? Since you still need room for expansion to complete?
I love this concept but how do you avoid over-drawing a barebow? I guess after reaching full draw you could collapse a bit to anchor, but collapsing isn’t great for a bunch of other reasons
You keep it against the “wall” no over-draw or collapsing at all
@@JakeKaminskiArchery In barebow my anchor point defines my “wall” rather than my biomechanical full draw length. Perhaps this is just an issue in barebow, an olympic style anchor allows one to reach full draw and then anchor. If I were to draw all the way back to my wall, my draw hand would be too far back for my barebow anchor.
@@Whitefall- I don't see how you cant still do that with a barebow, it's pretty much what Jake did at the end of the video. If your hand is too far back then you need to move your head or change how you anchor, otherwise you are going to be shooting with the wrong alignment.
@@elobiretv yeah that’s fair - I’ll have a play around with head position and anchor next time I shoot and give this a go
Jake can correct me if I'm wrong, but if your head is correct, your anchor is consistent, and you draw to just below anchor then lift to that anchor, you have done exactly what you are supposed to. The "wall" is a combination of shoulder alignment, extension (press), and rotation which gets your body into the correct position.
Tom Clum sr teaches the same, the KSL Shot Cycle for Hunting bows and traditional shooting. . Barebow, olympic recurve, compound, hunting bow, not much difference between them. Tom and Jake, my source for archery ;-)
This is unrelated to this video but I would like to ask you a question. Ive been shooting rather frequently (3-5 times weekly, 40 arrows per) and I've began to have a pain in my index finger that is hindering my ability to shoot. Is this a common occurrence? if so how to I keep this from happening and or lessen the load on that finger?
Check your hook. If you are hooking in the crease of your finger, you are doing nerve damage. You want to hook deep but not quite in the crease of the joint. There is no meat there to protect the nerves. I think Jake talked about it in his form series. Was old info to me, so I sort of zoned out for a minute.
It may be an improperly cut tab as well. If the pain is not internal, but on the surface of your finger tip, the tab may be too short by a bit and the string could be scraping as it goes by.
I'd have to see you shoot to know for sure, but if may be one of those two.
You probably know already but be careful drawing that compound with fingers like that. If you torque the string enough it can derail the bow and require a visit to the shop/bowpress. I was taught NTS from the getgo and listening to you talk about aiming before you draw and linear draw is so foreign to me. Im not sure if the compound world has changed, ive always shot recurves primarily. But i think they have split from a lot of what would be called good form. Parallel stance, everyone draws different, no core rotation. I have had good success applying nts to compound shooting when i do pick up my compound.
Yeah, I understand how long it can take to DIY construction when it's not your profession.
More on the peep. I used a micro peep for indoors 300’s. My scope housing is about 1”. The only thing I could see was the lense. When hunting, you want a peep large enough to shoot in low light conditions, but not so large you loose accuracy. The larger the hole in the peep, the less accurate you can shoot. I used to shoot a single pin like on your recurve, and used a peep. Again, no housing there. You are adding a step that needs to be ignored. Whoever taught you how to shoot a compound, they no not what they speak. Also, you release hand. You need a SOLID anchor. I about a 3 finger back tension. I set the main knuckles of my release hand behind my jaw bone. Nothing more solid than bone on bone. I see so many with their hands coating along side their cheek. That’s not an anchor. That’s a, well it’s about here somewhere. Not good enough. My cousin was a2 time state champion, and the year after he won his last title, I qualified 2nd in the state, it chose not to go to the big shoot. I just proved all to myself all I needed to know. I did not need proof in front of a crowd. We beat the pros scores. 300’s with anywhere from 57-60 X-rings. That’s out of 60 shots. I know of what I speak. I was there long before you picked up a bow. If you want to talk about it, I am here to help.
You are still wrong on a couple of things. First off, you do not have to shoot 65lbs on a target bow. I used to hunt with 56lbs., and my target bow was just 42lbs. Not sure why so many get hung up on so much poundage for a target bow. And with my 42lb target bow, I could draw it straight back.
Now to the peep. You do nothing with the peel other than look through it. No alignment. Stop feeding these folks false and very bad info.
T by is is how a peep works, and I have explained it before but you choose to think I am a novice of 55 years of shooting. Let’s take that hunting sight on your bow. If you try and center the sight housing inside the peep, the only pin that will be clear is the one closest to the center of that housing. You simply look through the peep at whatever pin you plan to use, and YOUR BRAIN will center you in the peep. Let’s take an Olympic style sight and many use them on compounds with just a pin, like on a recurve. There is no housing to center the peep around. Now how in the world
So you think they managed to shoot those??? I told you before not to trust what I say, but to go ask a rifle team trainer how a peep works in a rifle. It is exactly the same. Stop with this centering nonsense. Silver medal or not, you do not know anything about peeps or compounds.
..quote:...."I told you before not to trust what I say, but to go ask a rifle team trainer how a peep works in a rifle. It is exactly the same.".....quote end.
No, it is NOT the same! ...think about it: the rifle plus scope is the same alignment system for everyone who picks up the rifle - there are no dynamics involved. Conversely, the final position of the peep on the bowstring - and the final position of the nocking point! - depends on the individual form, type of release aid etc.. To compensate for the individual form you need 3 points on a line (to make sure that the nocking point / peep is not!!! off set of this line) ....yes, you can fixate a line defined by the target point and the sight pin, but this doesn't help much when the nocking point that defines the angle of the arrow, is offset to this line and the offset varies from shot to shot.
so yep, ....55 years long you compared apple with oranges....😎
This video is not about shooting a compound, rather how you should be shooting a recurve.
As far as the peep and housing is concerned, to each their own. I can tell you the Internationally successful pros I have been around do in-fact center their housing. Now this is because their dot is also in the center of the housing, However for multi-pin sight housings, they are now for the most part, all round for the reason of aligning your peep sight. If you are using a moveable or multipoint sight and constantly centering your dot in the center of your peep, your anchor MUST change every different distance. So having a solid anchor as you describe, which is absolutely important is not possible when constantly shifting it to get that pin in the center of the peep.
The human brain is EXCELLENT at putting two circles inside of each other with near perfect centering results. Its natural and should occur naturally when your anchor and peep are set correctly. However, making sure the housing is centered and is not moving as you execute the shot is paramount to international level success. Giving little attention to that detail can get you state level competitive for sure, but may hold you back in the future.
I also never said to shoot as high of weight on a target bow, as you can tell this is a hunting rig, plus over 60# is banned in anything World Archery sanctioned. 60# is easy to shoot and so most pros do so, to keep the speed up for advantages in the wind. I choose to shoot 65# plus on this bow for speed reasons as well. I can manage the weight just fine, and because of that I choose to be as ethical as possible in the field.
Great videos, thank you