Good evening CrazyKidsDad. My husband & I would like to thank you for your tutorial. Our garage began to experience panel buckling 3 days ago. Anthony found your video. Went to Menards. Purchased the garage door strut for $18.00 & WE followed your precise directions & fixed our garage door. (In my Oprah voice!) Thank you for sharing & saving $$$ for our home. Karen & Anthony Happy Campers🎉🎉🇺🇸👍🏾
Awesome Karen! Thanks for the awesome comment! Sometimes I wonder if I should keep doing "How To" videos and when I see comments like this, I know I am doing the right thing and helping people out! Please sub to our channel!
Genius!! had the same problem catch it before everything gets destroyed and you hear from the wife and it costs you $$$. I used the main header that sits on the top of the door figured my other door did not have it and I been using it for 20 years. This repair cost me ZERO remove header installed at sagging area and done. I saw other you tubers out there thanks but this is a Zero repair if you have a dusty header sitting on your door doing Nothing. The repair looks clean and does not look like you added a bunch of iron to your door like other videos. Kudos Crazy Kids Dad!! great minds make great visions!
Thanks for the video. Ours recently started popping and I was looking at the track and rollers, no problems there. I came across your video and knew this was our problem. No Menard’s in Phoenix, AZ, sadly Home Depot & Lowe’s don’t sell struts that I could find. I did find a garage door parts seller here in the city, they got $50 for the strut. Still a better deal than paying for the part and repairs. I ended up using the lower screws from the hinges for one side of the strut and everything worked out ok. I was going to do it your way but the guy i got the part suggested using the existing screws for one side. Either way, this video saved me $$. Thank you!!
Thanks so much for this video. It turns out that my door had a strut on the bottom, but the problem was from the second panel from the top. I took off the strut and moved it to the upper panel, and now it no longer bangs when closing. I'm going to see if I can get another strut to put on the bottom, but for now the problem is resolved.
I do garage doors and two things one you remove the bottom Hinge lag and put strut over top of Hinge the lage through strut and Hinge. two you don't need to pre drill when using a self tapper
Jason Khammo Ahhh true, I didn't even think of using the bottom of the hinge, duh!!! I also did the pilot hole to keep the bolt from sliding, I couldn't get the bike from sliding on a test before, perhaps I was just nervous about ruining the door! Good tips, thanks!
This video just saved my butt. I had a popping noise starting about 3 or 4 days ago and I just tightened the existing bolts on the support beam. All is well now thanks brother
So glad you made this comment! I went out to my garage and realized that I already had struts - - however, several of the bolts were extremely loose. Tightening them fixed my issue, as well! Thank you!
Although I wished I'd seen this before, my local Clopay dealer came right out, diagnosed and fixed it using 3 struts which I understand are standard now. All for under $190 including service call. We do not have Menards in TN and I couldn't even locate one on the internet so it was just as well I didn't drive myself crazy trying to find these. Thanks.
I own a garage door business I replace and repair more doors than I can count because companies do not install this strut when they buy the door it is extra do not pay a company for a double door of any size unless it has at least two struts
Question: Would it be better to lift the hinges slightly and insert the brace under the hinge, using the existing hole for the hinges, thereby avoiding having to drill different holes?
Thanks for this, I will try it as I have 2 panels "buckling" (I think my daughter bumped the garage door with her car). I considered using a T as you did, but lacking garage door construction knowledge I had no idea how to attach it (under the hinges did not seem feasible). I will try to reply after the job to let you know how it went and what I did :) Thanks again CKD :D
I think I'm having a similar issue. In my case when the door is closed, there is a slight gap in between the top two panels. When it goes up it pops and fit in together. Do you think installing a strut( or two for both panels) will resolve this issue? What is the reason behind installing the strut? to keep it straight?
Great fix. But I would not call it EZ, to drill new holes is always scary. Why can't you just unbolt the bottom screw on the hinge and use that instead? Also will it fix the problem if replacing new hinges with a spring in it (called green hinges)?
You're right, I could have used the preexisting holes, but, as cheap as doors are, I was concerned if taking the bolt out and putting it back in, it may have not held well. I am unfamiliar with the green hinges.
Needs more turns on spring now with added weight. Gonna have to replace that opener sooner if not. Also struts do go on the hinge. Dont need to pre drill if your using tek screws, I guess unless you dont have an electric impact/drill and you screw it by hand
@@johnames6430 how many turns equates to how much the door needs to travel i.e the height of the door. If your using turns to add or remove weight on the door your doing wrong. Not that we all haven't done it done at some point but it's not a good practice by any means. +/- a half turn max in a pinch
@@Dmondb252 this is 100% wrong. The purpose of the spring is to reduce the weight of the door. The tension in the spring counter the weight of the door making it easy to open by hand or for your garage door opener to pull it. The turns are related to the height of the door (in my case a 7ft door). You would do one full rotation of the spring (360 degrees) for each foot of your door (height of the door not the travel distance). The travel distance is adjusted by the garage door opener. Why are you commenting all these thing if you don't' know what you're talking about? Someone could read that and do something wrong. In the future if you aren't sure about something just say so. A 7 ft door might need to travel more than a 7 ft distance along the rail. Again, if you don't know don't comment.
@@johnames6430 no it's not. If you don't put enough turns on a spring yes your right it makes it heavier BUT once your door gets to a certain point your springs will start winding the other way. I install garage doors for a living. Do some research. Learn what IPPT means and why an 8 foot door needs more turns than a 7 foot door. Big clue it's not because you can add more turns to your springs. The thickness (wire gauge) and length of the spring determines how much weight they are RATED for and how many cycles (uses) you can get out of it. I won't even get into spring ID.
You know as you add additional weight to the door, you may need to change your spring load. Another good thing about the struts is your door has better wind strengh!!
Hi buddy my garage door is the same problem but I have checked your web site they not delivered to address..do you where store delivery thank you your time help
Do you think the strut needs to be the full width of the door 16ft? Dont have a vehicle with enough room to haul 16ft without it sticking way out the back of my truck and I don't have a sliding rear window. What about one 10ft on center?
1 solid piece would be best, but you can try to half sections, or 2 half and then a third over the middle of the 2. This would be okay, if not to heavy.
My 2 car garage door's central rail which is parallel to the ceiling moves up and down slightly when the door is in process of opening. In long run is that a problem ?.
Thanks for sharing. I'm having the same issue but have what may be a dumb question... Why not bolt the strut to the door using the existing hinge bolts?
Katie & Brent Craven you can do that. Only challenge on an insulated door like the one in the video is you can't put a bolt and nut on the hole if the hole gets stripped out. Also please be mindful that struts will add weight to the door that could cause your springs to be underpowered, especially if you install more than one.
I had the same problem and used the exact same solution. It worked great for about a year until the strut clipped the bumper of a car when closing one time and it ripped out all the screws except the ones on the ends. The sheet metal in the door is paper thin and there is very little for the screws to bite into. Now all the holes are stripped out. I'm thinking of gluing small sheet metal plates to the door and then drilling holes through those so the screws have a little more meat to bite into.
cameratest Goid idea, but I would just drill new pilot holes to the sides of the existing holes, going through the strut into the door. This way it has a solid door to hang on to.
Would it make more sense to have the strut right in center of the panel rather than just below the existing hinge? I thought that will give it more support
@@ground2airnerd Actually you want it as close to the hinge as possible. The center of the section isn't going to give it support where it needs it most, which is at the top. **Sidenote: when you add a strut or struts, you are changing the weight of the door. This could be dangerous, especially if you have children. With the door "closed" you should pull the release from the opener and "test" your door by lifting it with one hand. If it takes a lot of strength to open or, if it wants to fall to the ground from waist high and above then the door is dangerous and will also put a lot of strain on the opener and all of the hinges.** What the doors are doing when that flex happens is just like when we were kids and you would step on a can and then wiggle it back and forth until it breaks in half. Same thing with garage doors accept much larger scale and slower process. Typically, this problem will destroy a door if it isn't repaired in a timely manner. I have over 28 years in the industry and have come across this issue hundreds of times. I would be happy to answer any questions about garage doors or openers. Slainte,
The ones that are sold at mernards only had 2 holes at the end and not individual hole in the middle. Would I still need to drill the holes in middle to support the strut??
Can you recommend where to purchase a strut like the one you used here please? My garage door is doing exactly the same thing as yours. I need a strut that is 215 inches long though. Any recommendations?
@@ground2airnerd thanks. Mine is a single car garage door. So it is not as wide. The posts here seem to be regarding double door garage. It would make sense why the door buckles as the span is wide and weight is beefy.
No, I don't. The ones at Menards do not come with hardware, so I was really hoping you'd say what size those screws were as I'll have to get some. I wasn't trying to be a punk haha. Self tapping, sheet metal screws, 1in...something like that?
David Williams Yes, sorry, I used 3/4 inch self tapping, self deilling, hex head screw. You may need the 5/8 inch version depending on your door. Menards part numbers 229-0423 and 229-0410.
From this video, I would not buy this type of garage door because there are no metal frame structures to support the whole door. if someone was carelessly and slightly slam the door, you must fix it right away.
great fix. Probably just me being autistic, but I might have added two washers under the strut in the middle and one washer to mounts on each side to "pre-stress" the strut since the panel already has a tendency to sag.
Great video to watch, after recuperating from trauma caused by the blaring loud obnoxious intro music. Btw, there is no such tool called a "leveler", except for products made to adjust the height for furniture legs. (like wobbling chairs) Your URL link to buy a strut from Menards is useless - during checkout it will say "Not eligible for Ship to Home".
Here is the link from Menards: tinyurl.com/jclynwr Here are some example from Home Depot tinyurl.com/hs58yko Here are a few more: ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/struts.html You can also buy them from garage door repair places. Good luck, please like the video and sub to our channel! It helps support us!
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Good evening CrazyKidsDad. My husband & I would like to thank you for your tutorial. Our garage began to experience panel buckling 3 days ago. Anthony found your video. Went to Menards. Purchased the garage door strut for $18.00 & WE followed your precise directions & fixed our garage door. (In my Oprah voice!) Thank you for sharing & saving $$$ for our home. Karen & Anthony Happy Campers🎉🎉🇺🇸👍🏾
Awesome Karen! Thanks for the awesome comment! Sometimes I wonder if I should keep doing "How To" videos and when I see comments like this, I know I am doing the right thing and helping people out! Please sub to our channel!
Genius!! had the same problem catch it before everything gets destroyed and you hear from the wife and it costs you $$$. I used the main header that sits on the top of the door figured my other door did not have it and I been using it for 20 years. This repair cost me ZERO remove header installed at sagging area and done. I saw other you tubers out there thanks but this is a Zero repair if you have a dusty header sitting on your door doing Nothing. The repair looks clean and does not look like you added a bunch of iron to your door like other videos. Kudos Crazy Kids Dad!! great minds make great visions!
Thanks! Please remember to sub and like to support the channel!
I just solved this exact issue on a steel door with a 16' strut bought at Menards. The strut even came with screws. Less than a $20 fix. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Ours recently started popping and I was looking at the track and rollers, no problems there. I came across your video and knew this was our problem. No Menard’s in Phoenix, AZ, sadly Home Depot & Lowe’s don’t sell struts that I could find. I did find a garage door parts seller here in the city, they got $50 for the strut. Still a better deal than paying for the part and repairs. I ended up using the lower screws from the hinges for one side of the strut and everything worked out ok. I was going to do it your way but the guy i got the part suggested using the existing screws for one side. Either way, this video saved me $$. Thank you!!
Awesome!! Glad to hear.
@@ground2airnerd Yes, No menards in Dallas either. All the garage door pros sell it for $60. Thanks for the video.
Thanks so much for this video. It turns out that my door had a strut on the bottom, but the problem was from the second panel from the top. I took off the strut and moved it to the upper panel, and now it no longer bangs when closing. I'm going to see if I can get another strut to put on the bottom, but for now the problem is resolved.
Glad it worked for you! Please subscribe and like, it helps support the channel!
I do garage doors and two things one you remove the bottom Hinge lag and put strut over top of Hinge the lage through strut and Hinge. two you don't need to pre drill when using a self tapper
Jason Khammo Ahhh true, I didn't even think of using the bottom of the hinge, duh!!! I also did the pilot hole to keep the bolt from sliding, I couldn't get the bike from sliding on a test before, perhaps I was just nervous about ruining the door! Good tips, thanks!
This video just saved my butt. I had a popping noise starting about 3 or 4 days ago and I just tightened the existing bolts on the support beam. All is well now thanks brother
So glad you made this comment! I went out to my garage and realized that I already had struts - - however, several of the bolts were extremely loose. Tightening them fixed my issue, as well! Thank you!
Thank-you so much for the video. You said exactly what I thought it was and my husband believed it because he watched the video with me.
This video is a great Help. My dad had this issue before and ill use this video to fix it.
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Although I wished I'd seen this before, my local Clopay dealer came right out, diagnosed and fixed it using 3 struts which I understand are standard now. All for under $190 including service call. We do not have Menards in TN and I couldn't even locate one on the internet so it was just as well I didn't drive myself crazy trying to find these. Thanks.
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I went to Menards an hour later after watching this and now my garage door doesn't blow up every time I open and close it. Thanks!
Nice!
GREAT works.
I just make the same thing and It works. thank you very much!
I own a garage door business I replace and repair more doors than I can count because companies do not install this strut when they buy the door it is extra do not pay a company for a double door of any size unless it has at least two struts
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My door uses the hinge screws to secure the strut. No need to drill any holes. Looks like these hinges have the screw high into the hinge.
Yeap, learning lesson on my part!
Thanks, Keep creating more information for Garage Door Repair
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I give u credit for doing that and understanding it. great job.
Good Job. Thanks
Question: Would it be better to lift the hinges slightly and insert the brace under the hinge, using the existing hole for the hinges, thereby avoiding having to drill different holes?
Yes, lesson learned for me as well!
Thanks for this, I will try it as I have 2 panels "buckling" (I think my daughter bumped the garage door with her car). I considered using a T as you did, but lacking garage door construction knowledge I had no idea how to attach it (under the hinges did not seem feasible). I will try to reply after the job to let you know how it went and what I did :) Thanks again CKD :D
Good to hear!
Great how to. Exactly what needed to do to mine. Thanks
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Kudos ...best video on strut application. Thank you
Thank you for the comment!
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Thank you, thank you. Had same problem and this tip fix it, same spot.
I think I'm having a similar issue. In my case when the door is closed, there is a slight gap in between the top two panels. When it goes up it pops and fit in together. Do you think installing a strut( or two for both panels) will resolve this issue? What is the reason behind installing the strut? to keep it straight?
Sounds as your panels are not even, should get that looked at. The strut are strength to the panels.
Great fix. But I would not call it EZ, to drill new holes is always scary. Why can't you just unbolt the bottom screw on the hinge and use that instead? Also will it fix the problem if replacing new hinges with a spring in it (called green hinges)?
You're right, I could have used the preexisting holes, but, as cheap as doors are, I was concerned if taking the bolt out and putting it back in, it may have not held well.
I am unfamiliar with the green hinges.
Needs more turns on spring now with added weight. Gonna have to replace that opener sooner if not. Also struts do go on the hinge. Dont need to pre drill if your using tek screws, I guess unless you dont have an electric impact/drill and you screw it by hand
Thanks for the info, I will keep that in mind for the next one!
that strut hardly weighs anything, maybe a 1/4 turn
@@johnames6430 how many turns equates to how much the door needs to travel i.e the height of the door. If your using turns to add or remove weight on the door your doing wrong. Not that we all haven't done it done at some point but it's not a good practice by any means. +/- a half turn max in a pinch
@@Dmondb252 this is 100% wrong. The purpose of the spring is to reduce the weight of the door. The tension in the spring counter the weight of the door making it easy to open by hand or for your garage door opener to pull it. The turns are related to the height of the door (in my case a 7ft door). You would do one full rotation of the spring (360 degrees) for each foot of your door (height of the door not the travel distance). The travel distance is adjusted by the garage door opener. Why are you commenting all these thing if you don't' know what you're talking about? Someone could read that and do something wrong. In the future if you aren't sure about something just say so. A 7 ft door might need to travel more than a 7 ft distance along the rail. Again, if you don't know don't comment.
@@johnames6430 no it's not. If you don't put enough turns on a spring yes your right it makes it heavier BUT once your door gets to a certain point your springs will start winding the other way. I install garage doors for a living. Do some research. Learn what IPPT means and why an 8 foot door needs more turns than a 7 foot door. Big clue it's not because you can add more turns to your springs. The thickness (wire gauge) and length of the spring determines how much weight they are RATED for and how many cycles (uses) you can get out of it. I won't even get into spring ID.
You know as you add additional weight to the door, you may need to change your spring load. Another good thing about the struts is your door has better wind strengh!!
Good point, thanks for the info.
You should have used the bottom hinge bolt to secure the strut
I know that now, thanks for the tip!
Would be nice if you would have explained how you figured out it needed a strut and how you knew which panel to put the strut on.
Um.....the huge popping sound is the indicator that you need a strut, and the panel that is sagging, is where you would put it.
Any door 12' or wider should have a strut/brace on each panel.
True, I now have one on each panel.
Hi buddy my garage door is the same problem but I have checked your web site they not delivered to address..do you where store delivery thank you your time help
Great video... looks like the same issue I am having... unfortunately you did not show the strut itself, or tell me what stores carry it.
Mario R. Pleis There is a link to purchase the strut in the video description.
Great example
I have the same size door. it opens and closes fine, but when it's shut, it shakes when the wind blows against it. It's brand new
Great video
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Do you think the strut needs to be the full width of the door 16ft? Dont have a vehicle with enough room to haul 16ft without it sticking way out the back of my truck and I don't have a sliding rear window. What about one 10ft on center?
1 solid piece would be best, but you can try to half sections, or 2 half and then a third over the middle of the 2. This would be okay, if not to heavy.
My 2 car garage door's central rail which is parallel to the ceiling moves up and down slightly when the door is in process of opening. In long run is that a problem ?.
I think it is okay, but your door may need more support.
Thanks for sharing. I'm having the same issue but have what may be a dumb question... Why not bolt the strut to the door using the existing hinge bolts?
Katie & Brent Craven you can do that. Only challenge on an insulated door like the one in the video is you can't put a bolt and nut on the hole if the hole gets stripped out. Also please be mindful that struts will add weight to the door that could cause your springs to be underpowered, especially if you install more than one.
Thank you!
what do you do if you have struts and it still does this?(now its binding going down) seems to be hitting the front wall with the panel edges.
Do you have struts on all panels? Are they one piece? Are any bent?
Thank you.
You're welcome, I hope it worked!
I had the same problem and used the exact same solution. It worked great for about a year until the strut clipped the bumper of a car when closing one time and it ripped out all the screws except the ones on the ends. The sheet metal in the door is paper thin and there is very little for the screws to bite into. Now all the holes are stripped out. I'm thinking of gluing small sheet metal plates to the door and then drilling holes through those so the screws have a little more meat to bite into.
cameratest Goid idea, but I would just drill new pilot holes to the sides of the existing holes, going through the strut into the door. This way it has a solid door to hang on to.
You need to use the bottom hinges and drill the second
What about the extra weight? Did you check the door balance? Just don’t detach the opener with the door open,,,, crash! 😳 Stay Safe Friend
Negative. If your springs are ok, you can release the door all day long.
Would it make more sense to have the strut right in center of the panel rather than just below the existing hinge? I thought that will give it more support
Perhaps, the buckeling seems to happen where the 2 panels meet, but the middle may have been fine also.
@@ground2airnerd Actually you want it as close to the hinge as possible. The center of the section isn't going to give it support where it needs it most, which is at the top.
**Sidenote: when you add a strut or struts, you are changing the weight of the door. This could be dangerous, especially if you have children. With the door "closed" you should pull the release from the opener and "test" your door by lifting it with one hand. If it takes a lot of strength to open or, if it wants to fall to the ground from waist high and above then the door is dangerous and will also put a lot of strain on the opener and all of the hinges.**
What the doors are doing when that flex happens is just like when we were kids and you would step on a can and then wiggle it back and forth until it breaks in half. Same thing with garage doors accept much larger scale and slower process. Typically, this problem will destroy a door if it isn't repaired in a timely manner. I have over 28 years in the industry and have come across this issue hundreds of times. I would be happy to answer any questions about garage doors or openers.
Slainte,
good video by the way.
The ones that are sold at mernards only had 2 holes at the end and not individual hole in the middle. Would I still need to drill the holes in middle to support the strut??
Yes, you can easily drill the holes, I would space them 4 feet apart.
Where did you get the strut? I'm not finding much online. Thank you!
Menards Home Improvement
Thanks for saving me $$___.
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Can you recommend where to purchase a strut like the one you used here please? My garage door is doing exactly the same thing as yours. I need a strut that is 215 inches long though. Any recommendations?
Most home improvement stores sell it, there is a link to it in my video description.
www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.drywall-furring-channelx12.1000165832.html?autoSuggest=pip
Mine is the opposite. Do you think its the same issue? Its been 6 months and i still cant find the issue
If you do not have a sturt support, then yes, it can cause problems.
@@ground2airnerd thanks. Mine is a single car garage door. So it is not as wide. The posts here seem to be regarding double door garage.
It would make sense why the door buckles as the span is wide and weight is beefy.
I like to get garage door strut but I can’t find it
Most hardware store carry them, or a garage door business.
where did you get the part to fix?
Menards.
Hello my issue is that my door pops and doesn't close
You need your springs adjusted.
3/16th in ratchet??
David Williams Eh, you know what I mean.
No, I don't. The ones at Menards do not come with hardware, so I was really hoping you'd say what size those screws were as I'll have to get some. I wasn't trying to be a punk haha. Self tapping, sheet metal screws, 1in...something like that?
David Williams Yes, sorry, I used 3/4 inch self tapping, self deilling, hex head screw. You may need the 5/8 inch version depending on your door.
Menards part numbers 229-0423 and 229-0410.
Any luck?
Ya, put two on and now I'm a hero! I had those 16ft struts sticking wayyyy out my front window, I thought I was going to hit stop signs lol
From this video, I would not buy this type of garage door because there are no metal frame structures to support the whole door. if someone was carelessly and slightly slam the door, you must fix it right away.
Thanks for the info.
This is not true. There are "struts" built with every door. Some happen to be under the back door skin.
Where did you buy your struts? Menards is selling it but they don;t ship on a residence.
I bought mine at Menards. Where do you live?
LA California and no Menards here. I search online but no luck. contractor is charging me 225 for 3 struts installed.
Did you try Home Depot or Lowes?
Here is a cheap alternative:
www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.drywall-furring-channelx12.1000165832.html?autoSuggest=pip
where i can buy the bar ? i couldn't find it in home depot
Menards also has them. You might try a garage door repair.
Where would I find this u bar support strut?
It's in the description.
great fix. Probably just me being autistic, but I might have added two washers under the strut in the middle and one washer to mounts on each side to "pre-stress" the strut since the panel already has a tendency to sag.
Good point, thanks for sharing, next time I will think of doing that.
Where did you get the strut?
Menards, the link is in the description.
Great video to watch, after recuperating from trauma caused by the blaring loud obnoxious intro music.
Btw, there is no such tool called a "leveler", except for products made to adjust the height for furniture legs. (like wobbling chairs)
Your URL link to buy a strut from Menards is useless - during checkout it will say "Not eligible for Ship to Home".
Hard to please everyone.
Self tapping why would you drill holes
When I tried to start the screw before the video, it would just slide all over the place, so that is why I did a pilot hole.
How much is a strut?
$25 roughly.
Here is the link from Menards:
tinyurl.com/jclynwr
Here are some example from Home Depot
tinyurl.com/hs58yko
Here are a few more:
ddmgaragedoors.com/parts/struts.html
You can also buy them from garage door repair places.
Good luck, please like the video and sub to our channel! It helps support us!
Intro portion of video needs work, make it more professional.
So true, it was my first years into videos, you know, we have to be flashy.