Best DIY Garage Door Strut for Homeowners, Property Managers, & Prosumers.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ธ.ค. 2024
- ********DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT A 'HOW TO' VIDEO. THIS VIDEO IS A REVIEW OF THE FIVE START DOOR GARAGE DOOR STRUT PRODUCT. IF YOU ADD GARAGE DOOR STRUTS TO YOUR GARAGE DOOR AND YOUR GARAGE DOOR BALANCE IS OFF. YOU MUST HIRE A PROFESSIONAL TO ADJUST YOUR SPRINGS. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST YOUR GARAGE DOOR TORSION SPRINGS WITHOUT THE RIGHT TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE****
This video is a review of a garage door strut that might be perfect for garage door integrity needs. Garage door struts are one of most requested items that I get from my customer. Many are looking for a garage door strut solution that they can apply on their own. And outside using an improper solution there was not many options where a door strut could be purchased from a local hardware store. That's why shop.fivestard... pieced garage door strut is appealing. In this review I highlight some features of their struts. I also cover some things to look for before completing the installation of their struts. In fact, their sturt configurations are perfect for most average homeowners. Their "secret sauce" in their strut connector which is the main reason why I think this door strut excels above other non-professional options. I think Five Star Door strut solution is a good one to consider. I will have an affiliate link in the description if you want to check out their product.
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Between time code 5:54 thru 7:38 it is implied that if any adjustments are to be made to the torsion springs the homeowner should reach out to a professional contractor to make those adjustments. By no means does this video encourage homeowners or anyone that does not have the proper tools and knowledge to make adjustments to their Torsion Springs. Adjusting a torsion springs can harm you.
Thanks for standing on integrity
Thank you!
Thank you for the video quick question I’m replacing an old door with a 16 by 8 by 2 inch thick insulated door it only came with one strut in your opinion is this adequate and if not how many would you add it’s 5 panels by the way with one glass. Tks again great videos.
Thank you for your question. If the garage door has a top strut, then that's a good start. If you live in an area that has strong wind or hurricane type conditions then additional strut will help with the rigidity. Yet keep in mind that each strut will add additional weight and thus lower your spring cycle life potentially. Thus if you want to add with one strut in the middle section you'd be ok.
I have a new 18’x8’ metal insulated door. The installer did put a strut on the top panel but he installed it in the center of the top panel. My door faces east and in the morning when the sun hits the door it gets hot and of course it expands. This causes the door to bow out and push against the header and scrape when it’s raised or lowered. Before the sun hits the door I have 1/4-5/16” gap in the center and slightly more at each corner. Do you think adding another strut at the top of the top panel would correct the bowing or should I consider something else?
Very good question.
I wonder what type of track assembly you have?
Adding a strut may not help if the damage is severe. I would consider swapping out the second section to the top and adding a new strut.
@@sosgds The installer came back and added a strut to the very top of the top panel and it looked much better. With the door closed we had 1/4-5/16” clearance between the door and header. While he was working on the door the sun moved off the door so I was skeptical. The next morning when the sun hit the door it was once again hitting the header.
You’d ask about the track assembly but I’m not sure what you’re asking. It is a High lift track assembly with no opener at the time.
The 2nd panel has different width stiles but I guess they could swap just to test. They may be discussing getting a new top panel made.
I’m In the midwest (Chicago area) and Menards sells struty, Both 8 and 16’. I have bought them ans used them. They are less than $10 for 8’ ans less than $20 for the 16’. Thanks...Jim
PS.....i Added Both a 8’ and 16’ to a 16’ sagging door, Yes I had to rebalance the door.
Mr. Jim!!! So good to hear from you. I'm so surprised the Mid-West offers struts in local hardware stores. I wish that was case here sometimes.
@@sosgds the struts At Menards are 9’ not 8’. I did have to replace that garage door. It was an Ideal 8x16’, it was 16 years old, insulated, but not solid. My new door is Amish made, actually less money than the Ideal door. It is completely solid and insulated. The old door died on 1/1/2019. I had a local Pro sold me & installed new door, Liftmaster 8550wl-267 on 1/3/2019 ($1700 for everything). Luckily it was a 40 degree day and all went well. The door and opener are working great. I’m very pleased with the Liftmaster. I was a Genie man all my life, but 8-10 years was normal life. I purchased a condo last year that has a Liftmaster chain drive 1/3hp, it’s original with the unit from 1995. My grandson has 2 from 1996, all are still working. I’m amazed!!! Thanks...Jim
Some good info. Nice sales pitch.
Thank you for the feedback.
You helped me out so much .stressed out and the cost for a new garage door. I needed two # 3 hinges and one 8 ft Angle. Bought 2 but one worked out. Thanks again👍🏻
My door already has struts. It seems to need additional support. What would you recommend? Would the slotted angle iron work in this situation?
Thanks
That's a very good question.
What can you tell me about the makeup of the door?
What type of build quality is it?
How many struts does the door currently have?
Where exactly is the door sagging from?
@@sosgds Thanks for responding. The door is 18 ft. With three struts. The sag is in the center when door is up. The door is un-insulated.
@@msdelta72 thank you for sharing that information.
If it is sagging I would definitely encourag to install another strut. Yet with a 4th strut it will add weight.
@@sosgds it has one just below bracket that lift arm connects to and the next strut is just below the first hinge. So would you add it in the middle of first section which would put it just at the top of the first hinge?
Just received mine. Wondering if to go above or below for placement if I’m making sense
SOS/Santiago love the channel...and have been putting your advice to use. Moved to house with a 20 year old garage door/motor and it seems to have taken a beating over the years. So far I have replaced all the rollers w/new nylon rollers, 2 broken hinges, new safety sensors (old ones were failing and intermittently working), and did a general clean/lube/service. I have been considering adding a strut and even a beefier upgraded center bracket...but I think its good for now and I should get a few more years out of it. Only so much $ I am willing to put into an old door and old opener. Got my eye on a Lift Master (one piece rail of course) and a new insulated door once this fails.
Thank you for the feedback! I am glad you are to benefit from the Pro-tips. Stay safe party person!
Very helpful video I’m glad we can buy our own struts 😎😎😎
Great content! Just subscribed.. QUESTION : at 1:30 of this video.. can that panel still be fixed? Or do you absolutely need a new door at that point? Same thing happened to my door, although my doesn’t seem as badly bent as the pic.. can you bend a panel like that in 1:30 back into shape? Thanks!
Hello! Those are very good questions. By the way I just reached out to you via text message. I can elaborate a little bit more directly with you if you wish to communicate through text.
I currently have these struts in my garage door. The one at the bottom
Of the door hits the bumper of the truck about 1 inch. Can the lip of the strut be customized in order to make it avoid the bumper?
That is a very good question. Usually the struts are sold in a 2-in or 3 in configuration. I have yet to see a 1-in configuration. And my honest opinion is that if the strut was shaved or modified in any way this would definitely lose its structural integrity and it might not hold up the garage door for a long duration. That's in good conscience I could not suggest cutting the lip or the edge of the door strut that runs parallel to the door. I think it would cause future problems to your garage door system.
@@sosgds can the strut be moved up a couple of inches? Just to avoid cutting/shaving the strut.
@@ernesth8782 yes it can. In fact if it's on the bottom section it's best to move it up right up under the hinges so that way it supports the top of the bottom section. Any event you should be able to move it up a tad to get the clearance you need.
@@sosgds thanks so much for the response. I think that will be the best thing to do. I will just move it up about 2 inches so the bumper can clear. I will let you know how it goes once I do it. 👍🏼
You have potential to be a TH-cam super star just a suggestion shorten it up to 4 min vids I fast forward because you are using way to many extra words
Thank you so much for your kind words. I truly appreciate your suggestions. I will do my best to implement them in my coming videos. Stay safe party person!
SOS GARAGE DOOR SERVICE In your opinion which garage door opener is the best which brand and or model for residential?
That's a great question. I get this question the most. The honest answer is the best garage door motor is the one your garage door needs that offers all the features you want while staying within the budget you can afford. If money is no option a Wall Mount Garage Door Motor (Genie 6170/LiftMaster 8500W). But again, those motors might not be right for you. Have you seen the reviews of the garage door motors on my TH-cam channel?
@@sosgds I love the operation of a wall mount but turns out the plumbing is a little to low for it. I guess a wall mount garage motor needs to be on a higher track than a overhead mount.
@@sosgds which one is the quieter option?
Are you asking which one is quieter in the wall mount motors or a different motor?
I say LiftMaster and Genie are the same. But the quietest I have seen is Marantec.
@@karimnasser8480if your looking for quiet operation and what's best for your garage door any opener with a DC motor. Preferably a belt drive
Hey Santiago good morning, I am a DYI'R and appears I have the same door in this video. Seems like the absolute cheapest door there is out there.. The top of the door where the J bracket mounts has torn the door. This is my brothers house and there is no money in the budget to replace the top section. I do realize from one of your other videos I can swap sections and may have to do that. I think over time there has been an issue with the alignment as when someone would hit the button the door at times it would bind up and need a helping hand to push it up and thats why the metal has torn. I guess my question is; the door does not have the center torsion springs, it has coil springs on each side to help the door up. Is this normal and maybe a way for contractors to save a buck? The garage is about 12 years old. These springs can easily be adjusted by moving the S hooks to give it more or less tension. Please let me your thoughts. Yes, I am putting a bandaid on a large hemorrhaging bullet hole. All of the other panels are in great condition and there is a strut towards the top and it has a good twist in it so I am going to see what I can pick up to replace it. Thanks so much for your time in reading this and for making these fantastic informative videos..
Hello Mike. Thank you for all the great feedback. What you are describing are extension springs. These were once an acceptable solution for low headroom door configurations. But unfortunately they do not hold up over time. Thus going with torsion springs would be by recommendation. If the top door sections is damaged and no longer strong enough to support the J-arm to the motor then I would also suggest switching it out with another section. In the end, these are just temporary fixes. You will need a new door soon.
I just bought two 16' struts through your affiliate link and used your code. Is it better to place the strut at the top or middle of the panel?
Hello Mike! Thank you for that excellent question. I prefer to install along the hinges, which could be considered at the top. You can definitely place the strut in the middle. But to save on making more holes and using existing tap screws, I install struts in this manner. You can also refer to my other video about strut support. I know it's kind of long but it can provide some help with installation. And just as a reminder, please use proper tools and implement all the safety precautions when working on your garage door. Thanks again for the support!
th-cam.com/video/AFIGMK6iCaQ/w-d-xo.html
If you're poor, steel bed frames make decent struts. Don't use self tapping screws tho - drill holes and bolt in place for extra strength.
Those things are 1/4" thick and weigh 30 lbs !!!
@eegg6954 No, they're typically 1/8" and a single flat section is not terribly heavy. I've repaired more than one garage door with them. Self tapping screws will eventually work themselves loose tho. I always drill holes and bolt them in place. Works like a charm
I thought you were gonna say "try hards", lol. ;p
Ya, multi piece kits are a great solution for those who can't get one otherwise. Still, they should always check the local home stores, some carry them, although many don't.
I know when picked mine up, I went out to the yard to get it, the yardman didn't even know they had them, lol.
While long struts and long torsion tubes can be tricky for garage door aficionados to get, the holy grail is always one piece operator rails. ;)
I know it's a dumbled standard to say that I'm grateful that these options exist when I know that the best solution is a solid one piece strut or rail assembly. But that was kind of the insight that I was trying to transmit in this video. There are now options for do-it-yourself homeowners that absolutely and emphatically do not have the sufficient modesty to reach out or pay for help. And I get that. In fact I respect that. So if there are options out there then the more the consumer wins.
*double standard
This amazing video begins at 6.00.
Bro, if five star is not payin you, they should be. I don't know if i should call bs or not. No info how to install an best way other than to plug they're product, which is fine, but felt deceived a bit. Just sayin
Hello! I appreciate the feedback. To be completely honest with you this was the first video of a series of videos that I was going to do for or 5 star doors. And it was a promising relationship in the beginning but I was later ghosted. The site was hesitant on making an updated video. But if you would like a video about the installation of the strut I can work on one in the future. Just let me know.
One comment... I can't see paying upwards of $160 for one stupid strut, for a 18 foot door.
If you're making a 13 minute long video, maybe include video of you actually installing it. You definitely could edit this video down to 5 minutes and still have all of the same information. I bought this strut and wanted to watch various ways people install it to help decided what will work best.
Hello Gough. Thanks for your feedback.
Now if you have a true 16 foot wide door you will start by installing the connecting piece. On Five Start Doors website they call it a connector. With the supplied tek screws you will install the connector piece first in the middle of the door where the section sags. Then you apply over the connector the 2 eight foot struts. If you door is not 16 wide, you will have to cut one of the struts. Hope this helps.
You can shorten your video and more people will watch to the end.
C'mon, man. You push some website and never demonstrate how to actually install. You just wasted my time, while pushing somebody's website. This is not the way to get subscribers.
If you got to the point in 5 minutes, you'd get a lot more views.
Thank you for your feedback. I will try to do better.
Are you purposely making the video longer than usual
Thanks for the feedback. Will endeavor to do better.
Pedantic
tl:dr