Love that 12:29 time play , wish that’s how installations gonna be now I’m getting older , very detailed video parts renewal on that section and I am thinking the heater core under the dash is a nightmare waiting on the other side . Good job Sir, thumbs up very helpful process. Thank you.
Glad I came across your video... I had some leakage and couldnt figure out where from.. I gave it a second look after seeing this and found a pin hole at that very elbow... i'm strapped for cash , so some gasket material and a hose clamp is keeping me riding for now... temporary of course... but thanks for the heads up
Thank you so much for this great video! This whole procedure took about a hour and couldn't have been more clear or simpler. I spent more time and money on constantly filling that leaking system over time than this whole procedure took. 10/10.
Wow 300,000m. I feel better about mine now. I have a leak small leak intermittent. Anti freeze in bottom front pan. (The pan you removed) drives me nuts because i cant pinpoint the leak.
I'm about to do this on my 2014 srt jeep grand cherokee. Why they have a stinking plastic elbow instead of metal is nuts because a lot of people have this issue
My nieces jeep is leaking somewhere. She is having to fill up the radiator twice a day. The resevoir stays at the max level. im going to try looking at the heater core hoses tomorrow. wish me luck
Here's a tip, you can rent that pressure tool and with the engine off, put some light pressure in. Also if money is an issue, get your self a heat glove and sqeeze the rad hose. If there's a crack in any of the hoses or elbows, it'll show its self. On mine it was obvious. But one quick look underneath and i could tell theres a leak from all the dried up white'ish residue on surrounding parts. Good Luck. hope its something simple.
@@JeeperGear found out, her engine is getting over pressurized and the coolant is coming out of resevoir while she drives. Maybe a head gasket, Ive replaced the thermostat and ECT sensor. Im going to run a combustion leak test tomorrow to see if its her heads. Water pump isnt leaking or making noise. radiator isnt leaking either.
@@allthingshiphop1151 Unfortunately that sounds like a headgasket, but a dye leak test will be a good confirmation. Also test the radiator cap to make sure it holds down its rated psi. Those things can cause all sorts of nasty hard to track down issues that can send you down the rabbit hole, when they fail.
@@JeeperGear I looked at her radiator cap yesterday. It looks good, Rubber/sealer isnt cracking or dry. I did notice a little corrosion on the inner vacum valve behind the spring? (not sure if thats what its called) Im going to buy a new cap tomorrow as well. Just didnt have time to work on her truck today. But she did tell me it hasnt overheated today. Her check engine light was on and i got the codes for a ECT sensor being bad, So thats why I replaced it yesterday. It didnt overheat but the temp did go up to 220F at one point. I had to drop her truck off back to her since its her only ride to get to work. So shes had the truck today. It didnt overheat on the way to her job (20 min drive) or on her way home from work But im thinking its because she still had some water in it. So Im hoping the ECT sensor worked, But im still gonna run a leak test tomorrow moring. Ill let you know what happen . Btw its a 2012 jeep grand cherokee 3.6l
First, thanks for the video and instructions. I have the hose assembly replaced, but I don't remember if the bottom edge of the firewall liner placement is in front of the lower sheet metal, or behind the lower sheet metal. If you happen to remember, I'd appreciate it.
Great video, thank you so much for sharing this. While you have that first firewall out, with a high mileage vehicle, i would also replace the PCV valve.
My 2011 Overland has the same exact problem. I have the V8 engine thanks for the video i have to do this job this weekend the dealer tells me $1500 btw do u live in North CAROLINA? I will pay u to replace mine
@@ivanreese7087She’s runnin good. I bought the hose from the dealer for abt $108 bucks. Attempted to put it on myself then chickened out I had the Jeep dealer put it on And they stuck a $400 bill up my A$$
While engine is off, I filled up the radiator, also squeezed the lower and upper rad hoses to get excess air out, then started the engine. Switched interior temp to hottest and blower on. Let it run for little while, while adding more coolant as the air escaped and the level dropped in radiator. Once it quit burping/dropping, closed the radiator cap, filled the reservoir to a hi line and waited for the rad fan to kick on and hot air to start traveling through the vents. P.s. don't let it get supper hot with rad cap being open, as coolant will start to boil if there's no pressure build up in the coolant system.
@@JeeperGear awesome thank you so much. My local shop wanted to charge me almost 600$ I'm replacing this part in the morning thanks to you! Your awesome!!!!
You can get those from a dealer by calling them Heater core pipe fittings. Here's a google search query for an example. www.google.com/search?q=jeep+wk2++Heater+core+pipe+fittings&sca_esv=549c059cf7ea463a&sxsrf=ADLYWIKzINEGIhr-TK1MMDvuDa5R4IBZTQ%3A1717815357288&source=hp&ei=PchjZv2cD6yg0PEPrM2quAk&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZmPWTd8JDudqtsIR5qNM1bDAQ2IGVOD3&ved=0ahUKEwi9r6LxgMuGAxUsEDQIHaymCpcQ4dUDCBc&uact=5&oq=jeep+wk2++Heater+core+pipe+fittings&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IiNqZWVwIHdrMiAgSGVhdGVyIGNvcmUgcGlwZSBmaXR0aW5nczIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRirAkiVLlAAWJgncAJ4AJABAJgBxQOgAZUNqgEJOC4xLjIuMC4xuAEDyAEA-AEB-AECmAIOoALeDcICBBAjGCfCAgsQABiABBixAxiDAcICCxAuGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIOEC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYigXCAhEQLhiABBixAxjRAxiDARjHAcICDhAAGIAEGLEDGIMBGIoFwgIIEC4YgAQYsQPCAg4QLhiABBixAxjRAxjHAcICCxAuGIAEGLEDGNQCwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAgUQABiABMICBRAuGIAEwgIGEAAYFhgewgILEAAYgAQYsQMYyQPCAgsQLhiABBjHARivAcICCBAAGIAEGJIDwgILEAAYgAQYkgMYigWYAwCSBwoxMC4xLjEuMS4xoAfelwE&sclient=gws-wiz&dlnr=1&sei=R8hjZvmEMcXa0PEPqa-dqQU
Over all its the same, little bit less room because of the bigger intake on the v8. Part numbers are different aswel. But everything behind the cowl is nearly identical.
From inside the cab, there's nothing to be done only from the engine bay side. Thats why i removed that first firewall shield to get to it and have room to work on lossening the hose clamps. Its tight in there.
I think I might have a leak from the tip of my new upper hose i see tiny spray trails coming from that specific area my upper/lowers hoses are brand new but has the old factory clamps, my mechanic used the old clamps he said they were still good at the time but lately I’ve been seeing a tiny leaking spray trail from the tip of upper hose(opposite side of the radiator) I’m guessing it’s from that old factory clamp, could I replace that clamp w a new shiny silver standard clamp that has screw flat head for tightening without disconnecting the upper hose and if I do is it mandatory for me to reflush the entire coolant system meaning I gotta buy gallons of coolant and drain n fill n re burp the entire system?
Spring style hose clamps are typically fabricated from steel alloy and plated with zinc for corrosion protection. Steel Spring style hose clamps have several advantages over Worm Gear style clamps as they continuously apply the same clamping force under all environmental conditions, over their entire life. With temperatures changes, rubber shrinkage with age, and vibration loads, the spring style clamp consistently applies force to seal the hose. Worm Gear clamps on the other hand can become loose due to vibration, material shrinkage, temperature fluctuation and can be grossly over tightened damaging the hose and radiator fittings. I would pick up a new set of factory spring clamps to replace with. Also, as you replace them, make sure the hose outlets surfaces are clean from debris or build up and will form an even seal when hose is put on. Sometimes, spring clamps can be tweaked or damaged if pressure is applied incorrectly with channel locks to unlock them. As far as coolant goes, just a word of advice, do not mess with the coolant system if its still hot and pressurized, it will burn you if messed with before letting it cool down. I've had a hose pop off on me because of a failed worm drive clamps. Burned my shoulder and half my face. If you drain it in to a clean deep pan or a bucket, you should be able to reuse it with out any issue. Most of the time if I see any kind of debris, I would filter the coolant as I'm pouring it back in to the system. Then use distilled water if a small amound is needed to top off, keep in mind if you lose a large amount of coolant while draining (accidents happen 😅) then pick up a fresh gallon of recommended coolant for your model to top off/add. Afterwards wipe everything down and then burp the system, look over all hose connections for leaks and you should be good to go. Hope this clears things up.
Jeeper Gear wow thank you so much for all this knowledge! 🙏🏽 I’m learning as I go! just tired of paying my mechanic money where I could do all of this myself and I will! It’s a 07 jgc laredo and she’s been maintained well for the last 13 yrs 182K all freeway miles. But this past year I’ve been doing all of my small maintenance here and there I’ve invested in some good tools for me to use and this specific issue I will deal w all by myself and maybe just grab a brand new spring style clamps like you’ve mentioned and stay away from the worm style clamps that makes a lot of sense again ty so much I really do appreciate it! 👏🏽
Can this cause overheating at idle and when driving rough but normal temps when at cruising temps on highway? I changed my water pump thermostat and radiator already so I have no answers to why my jeep is overheating
@@ssleem3377 i would start troubleshooting as to why this happens. Starting with a fan. It's very common for those internal relays in the fusebox to fail and cooling fans not come on. I've also came across a failed fan on our 2014 ecodiesel wk2. Which gave similar symptoms.
Do you have the "missing secret sauce" footage from 12:20-12:28? That's where all the hard work begins. Did you remove the dash to access and install the new assembly?
@@JeeperGear I will leave it on if you recall will antifreeze come pouring out of that hose after you take it off Probably best to do with a cold engine ? Thanks Bud
Love that 12:29 time play , wish that’s how installations gonna be now I’m getting older , very detailed video parts renewal on that section and I am thinking the heater core under the dash is a nightmare waiting on the other side . Good job Sir, thumbs up very helpful process. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the video,I did it by myself yesterday and save me money taking it to the dealer
Glad I came across your video... I had some leakage and couldnt figure out where from.. I gave it a second look after seeing this and found a pin hole at that very elbow... i'm strapped for cash , so some gasket material and a hose clamp is keeping me riding for now... temporary of course... but thanks for the heads up
Thank you so much for this great video! This whole procedure took about a hour and couldn't have been more clear or simpler. I spent more time and money on constantly filling that leaking system over time than this whole procedure took. 10/10.
Thanks a lot, you explain every thing and wrote everything in the description.
Nice video men I have the same problem I’m working right now in this and you video it’s helping me A lot
Wow 300,000m. I feel better about mine now.
I have a leak small leak intermittent. Anti freeze in bottom front pan. (The pan you removed) drives me nuts because i cant pinpoint the leak.
Did you ever figure out where the leak was coming from? Having same issue😪
Thank you for the video isn’t easier to remove the intake and have more room ?
I'm about to do this on my 2014 srt jeep grand cherokee. Why they have a stinking plastic elbow instead of metal is nuts because a lot of people have this issue
Such a great video thank you. Don’t need to use this new knowledge yet… but it’s nice to know how it works for the future!
Wow im about to do this that pipe just busted today and you are a life saver thank you for this video.
My nieces jeep is leaking somewhere. She is having to fill up the radiator twice a day. The resevoir stays at the max level. im going to try looking at the heater core hoses tomorrow. wish me luck
Here's a tip, you can rent that pressure tool and with the engine off, put some light pressure in. Also if money is an issue, get your self a heat glove and sqeeze the rad hose. If there's a crack in any of the hoses or elbows, it'll show its self. On mine it was obvious. But one quick look underneath and i could tell theres a leak from all the dried up white'ish residue on surrounding parts.
Good Luck. hope its something simple.
@@JeeperGear found out, her engine is getting over pressurized and the coolant is coming out of resevoir while she drives. Maybe a head gasket, Ive replaced the thermostat and ECT sensor. Im going to run a combustion leak test tomorrow to see if its her heads. Water pump isnt leaking or making noise. radiator isnt leaking either.
@@allthingshiphop1151 Unfortunately that sounds like a headgasket, but a dye leak test will be a good confirmation. Also test the radiator cap to make sure it holds down its rated psi. Those things can cause all sorts of nasty hard to track down issues that can send you down the rabbit hole, when they fail.
@@JeeperGear I looked at her radiator cap yesterday. It looks good, Rubber/sealer isnt cracking or dry. I did notice a little corrosion on the inner vacum valve behind the spring? (not sure if thats what its called) Im going to buy a new cap tomorrow as well. Just didnt have time to work on her truck today. But she did tell me it hasnt overheated today. Her check engine light was on and i got the codes for a ECT sensor being bad, So thats why I replaced it yesterday. It didnt overheat but the temp did go up to 220F at one point. I had to drop her truck off back to her since its her only ride to get to work. So shes had the truck today. It didnt overheat on the way to her job (20 min drive) or on her way home from work But im thinking its because she still had some water in it. So Im hoping the ECT sensor worked, But im still gonna run a leak test tomorrow moring. Ill let you know what happen . Btw its a 2012 jeep grand cherokee 3.6l
@@allthingshiphop1151 how did it all turn out??? I have a 2011 jeep laredo
First, thanks for the video and instructions. I have the hose assembly replaced, but I don't remember if the bottom edge of the firewall liner placement is in front of the lower sheet metal, or behind the lower sheet metal. If you happen to remember, I'd appreciate it.
Great video, thank you so much for sharing this. While you have that first firewall out, with a high mileage vehicle, i would also replace the PCV valve.
Same leak in mine. Fix your part jeep. I jbweld waterweld on mine now its good to go.
Were you able to see a coolant leak on the ground beneath that bad elbow fitting?
Thanks 🙏🏽
I just changed mine. Glad I saw your vlog first.
What’s the part number
Lmk
What’s the part number of the part you replaced. I have the same issue on my 5.7 trying to give the dealer the correct info to see if under warranty.
55038032ak
Talking this project Thur. Good tips thanks👍
My 2011 Overland has the same exact problem. I have the V8 engine thanks for the video i have to do this job this weekend the dealer tells me $1500 btw do u live in North CAROLINA? I will pay u to replace mine
Thank you, that means alot. Sorry man, I'm in Oregon.
Hey bro how its running after fix im having same problem
@@ivanreese7087 customer runs the Jeep from the vid as a delivery vehicle atm.
Got 20k miles on her already post repair.
@@JeeperGear 20k miles after fix? Ok thanks for the feedback
@@ivanreese7087She’s runnin good. I bought the hose from the dealer for abt $108 bucks. Attempted to put it on myself then chickened out
I had the Jeep dealer put it on And they stuck a $400 bill up my A$$
Nice work man. Subscribed!
Hey, just wonder, are you interested in reviewing roof rack for Jeep Grand Cherokee?
Sure, let me know what you have. Send your inquires to: jeepergear@gmail.com
Why them continue making them With the weak plástic elbow?? Today I noticed that my 2014 SRT is leaking at the same plastic elbow.
How did you burp the air bubble out?
While engine is off, I filled up the radiator, also squeezed the lower and upper rad hoses to get excess air out, then started the engine. Switched interior temp to hottest and blower on.
Let it run for little while, while adding more coolant as the air escaped and the level dropped in radiator. Once it quit burping/dropping, closed the radiator cap, filled the reservoir to a hi line and waited for the rad fan to kick on and hot air to start traveling through the vents.
P.s. don't let it get supper hot with rad cap being open, as coolant will start to boil if there's no pressure build up in the coolant system.
@@JeeperGear awesome thank you so much. My local shop wanted to charge me almost 600$ I'm replacing this part in the morning thanks to you! Your awesome!!!!
What's the part called or part number?
Heres the part number for the 3.6 model. 5.7 is little different.
HVAC Heater Hose Assembly
68251577AB
Hope this helps.
What’s the part number?
What's the name of this part ?
You can get those from a dealer by calling them Heater core pipe fittings.
Here's a google search query for an example.
www.google.com/search?q=jeep+wk2++Heater+core+pipe+fittings&sca_esv=549c059cf7ea463a&sxsrf=ADLYWIKzINEGIhr-TK1MMDvuDa5R4IBZTQ%3A1717815357288&source=hp&ei=PchjZv2cD6yg0PEPrM2quAk&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZmPWTd8JDudqtsIR5qNM1bDAQ2IGVOD3&ved=0ahUKEwi9r6LxgMuGAxUsEDQIHaymCpcQ4dUDCBc&uact=5&oq=jeep+wk2++Heater+core+pipe+fittings&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IiNqZWVwIHdrMiAgSGVhdGVyIGNvcmUgcGlwZSBmaXR0aW5nczIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRirAkiVLlAAWJgncAJ4AJABAJgBxQOgAZUNqgEJOC4xLjIuMC4xuAEDyAEA-AEB-AECmAIOoALeDcICBBAjGCfCAgsQABiABBixAxiDAcICCxAuGIAEGLEDGIMBwgIOEC4YgAQYsQMYgwEYigXCAhEQLhiABBixAxjRAxiDARjHAcICDhAAGIAEGLEDGIMBGIoFwgIIEC4YgAQYsQPCAg4QLhiABBixAxjRAxjHAcICCxAuGIAEGLEDGNQCwgIIEAAYgAQYsQPCAgUQABiABMICBRAuGIAEwgIGEAAYFhgewgILEAAYgAQYsQMYyQPCAgsQLhiABBjHARivAcICCBAAGIAEGJIDwgILEAAYgAQYkgMYigWYAwCSBwoxMC4xLjEuMS4xoAfelwE&sclient=gws-wiz&dlnr=1&sei=R8hjZvmEMcXa0PEPqa-dqQU
Can you bypass the heater core on a 2012 Grand Cherokee? I’m stuck in SC and need to get back to Durham NC.
I’m having the same issue but with a 5.7, is the removal of the part the same as this one?
Over all its the same, little bit less room because of the bigger intake on the v8. Part numbers are different aswel. But everything behind the cowl is nearly identical.
@@JeeperGear Awesome! Thank you so much!
Exactly what’s going on with my 2012 jeep grand Cherokee overland. 5.7.
I have the same leak on a 2011 GJC
Got the part ready to install
What’s behind the firewall that need to be loosen
From inside the cab, there's nothing to be done only from the engine bay side. Thats why i removed that first firewall shield to get to it and have room to work on lossening the hose clamps. Its tight in there.
I think I might have a leak from the tip of my new upper hose i see tiny spray trails coming from that specific area my upper/lowers hoses are brand new but has the old factory clamps, my mechanic used the old clamps he said they were still good at the time but lately I’ve been seeing a tiny leaking spray trail from the tip of upper hose(opposite side of the radiator) I’m guessing it’s from that old factory clamp, could I replace that clamp w a new shiny silver standard clamp that has screw flat head for tightening without disconnecting the upper hose and if I do is it mandatory for me to reflush the entire coolant system meaning I gotta buy gallons of coolant and drain n fill n re burp the entire system?
Spring style hose clamps are typically fabricated from steel alloy and plated with zinc for corrosion protection. Steel Spring style hose clamps have several advantages over Worm Gear style clamps as they continuously apply the same clamping force under all environmental conditions, over their entire life. With temperatures changes, rubber shrinkage with age, and vibration loads, the spring style clamp consistently applies force to seal the hose. Worm Gear clamps on the other hand can become loose due to vibration, material shrinkage, temperature fluctuation and can be grossly over tightened damaging the hose and radiator fittings. I would pick up a new set of factory spring clamps to replace with.
Also, as you replace them, make sure the hose outlets surfaces are clean from debris or build up and will form an even seal when hose is put on.
Sometimes, spring clamps can be tweaked or damaged if pressure is applied incorrectly with channel locks to unlock them.
As far as coolant goes, just a word of advice, do not mess with the coolant system if its still hot and pressurized, it will burn you if messed with before letting it cool down. I've had a hose pop off on me because of a failed worm drive clamps. Burned my shoulder and half my face.
If you drain it in to a clean deep pan or a bucket, you should be able to reuse it with out any issue. Most of the time if I see any kind of debris, I would filter the coolant as I'm pouring it back in to the system. Then use distilled water if a small amound is needed to top off, keep in mind if you lose a large amount of coolant while draining (accidents happen 😅) then pick up a fresh gallon of recommended coolant for your model to top off/add.
Afterwards wipe everything down and then burp the system, look over all hose connections for leaks and you should be good to go.
Hope this clears things up.
Jeeper Gear wow thank you so much for all this knowledge! 🙏🏽 I’m learning as I go! just tired of paying my mechanic money where I could do all of this myself and I will! It’s a 07 jgc laredo and she’s been maintained well for the last 13 yrs 182K all freeway miles. But this past year I’ve been doing all of my small maintenance here and there I’ve invested in some good tools for me to use and this specific issue I will deal w all by myself and maybe just grab a brand new spring style clamps like you’ve mentioned and stay away from the worm style clamps that makes a lot of sense again ty so much I really do appreciate it! 👏🏽
which side is the inlet? Left or right? when facing the engine
Left aluminum incoming in to hearer core and right side 90* angled plastic is outgoing.
What is the mopar part number/name?
Is it possible this is the reason my windshield keeps fogging up and I smell coolant ?? Some one please let me know thanks
(2015) summit 5.7
Great video. congratulations!!!
Thanks for watching
What is the part name?
Is this elbow pipe in the same location on the 5.7?
They're in a similar location except the design is bit different between 3.6 and 5.7
Can this cause overheating at idle and when driving rough but normal temps when at cruising temps on highway? I changed my water pump thermostat and radiator already so I have no answers to why my jeep is overheating
@@ssleem3377 i would start troubleshooting as to why this happens. Starting with a fan. It's very common for those internal relays in the fusebox to fail and cooling fans not come on. I've also came across a failed fan on our 2014 ecodiesel wk2. Which gave similar symptoms.
Does anyone know how to order this part? I can't find it anywhere
2011 jeep grand Cherokee
Heater Supply And Return Hose And Tube
Part Number: 55038030AN for 3.6 v6
---------------------
You can search search for parts on mymoparparts.com
Do you have the "missing secret sauce" footage from 12:20-12:28? That's where all the hard work begins. Did you remove the dash to access and install the new assembly?
How long did it take you in total buddy have the same problem
With recording and etc, about 4-5 hours.
where did you buy that assembly
I picked it up from a local dealer.
Do you think it would help to take the hood off?
That would give you more light to work with. Other than that, there's plenty of room with the 3.6 engine. V8 will be a little tight.
@@JeeperGear I will leave it on if you recall will antifreeze come pouring out of that hose after you take it off Probably best to do with a cold engine ? Thanks Bud
Now I know why dad said to never buy a dodge
Thanks so much mate
Awesome thanks bro 🙏
Thanks mate
what is tha name of that part
and 9r assembly
I was able to order them from dealer by calling them Heater core pipe fittings. They're are different between 3.6 and 5.7 models.
Thanks I appreciate it
wHAT WAS IT???
Nice job, very descriptive.
300 k that’s awesome
Thanks god i just finished watched ur video, mech try to charge me $1100 to replace it i drove back home n will buy that 🎉
Goat
Awesome 👍
🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷🇵🇷
Jeep brand name .But it stupid design abd manufacturing .jeep had many issue and defected .jeep junk .
Thinks for the video was really useful 🫡🫡