I just used your video as a guide to clean the intake valves on my Hyundai Elantra GT. I used the CRC cleaner, let it sit for one hour, then drove it on the highway. I have noticed that I have smoother acceleration, an increase in power, and the idle speed is slightly higher. Since I now know how to do it I will be cleaning my valves regularly. Thanks for making this video.
I just did my 2019 Si with 30,000 miles on it and noticed a slight improvement. Nothing drastic. And I've had a catch can in the car since 15,000. If this is done from the beginning of the vehicles life and done regularly it will definitely help. If you wait until high mileage then you'll definitely need a professional cleaning. Then after that the CRC can help maintain it.
A few months ago I Did two treatments in a row with 200miles of highway driving and an oil change in between, the Results have been absolutely amazing. Cleaned 70k worth of build up without causing any issues.
CRC say after doing this treatment it keeps improving over the next 8 days or so of consecutive driving. So it would be interesting to see another borescope view after a week or so of regular driving. But it was a definite improvement, I could see bare valve metal in the second shots after the treatment, although it's a really bad case and may need a few treatments to really see a good improvement. If a car gets that bad it might be worth doing a full removal and walnut blast to get it to a state where it can be maintained by regular CRC treatments. I have a new GDI car, and I'm planning to do a CRC GDI treatment one week before each annual oil change interval. Hopefully that'll prevent it getting to that state.
I can tell you that having CC'd my RS4, this stuff works when you actually remove the intake manifold and let it sit in the chamber with the valves seated closed. It actually melts the carbon which can them be scrapped , wire brushed and vacuum sucked out of the chamber and off the valve surfaces much easier. I've never tried spraying into the throttle body as it obviously failed to do anything as seen in this video.
@@babagandu R36 should be pretty simple. You'll want to order a set of manifold gaskets first, though. 1. remove the intake manifold. 2. check to see which cylinders have the valves closed. 3. Spray a small amount of cleaner into the ports with the closed valves, and ONLY the ones with closed valves. I'd say about a 5 second burst per valve should give them a good enough coating to start. 4. Use several long zip-ties to get in and physically agitate the gunk. 5. Spray some more to get a good soup that you can remove with rags/towels. 6. Repeat steps 3-5 until the valves are clean. 7. Rotate the engine until the valves are closed on the remaining cylinders. 8. Repeat steps 3-6 on those cylinders. 9. Replace gaskets and install manifold. 10. Drive a few miles. 11. Change engine oil.
used it in my gen coupe 3.8, i got it at 71k miles and doubted there was ever an intake valve clean done beforehand. at 80k miles i did 1 can, followed instructions carefully. For the 10 min highway driving, i filled up from empty premium gas from Shell and mixed with a full fuel system cleaner additive whos name escapes me atm. after ~3 days i could definitely, albeit subtly, notice it was quicker to come to power, and felt less sluggish if you will. I bought this product somewhat skeptically after watching this video. I dont know what my intakes look like, but ive always ran sams club premium every fill up in the car, so they probably haven't been as bad as the engine in the video. If your intake heads look like this guys, this product wont do it in 5 or maybe any # of cans. I had a good experience (for only ~12$) and i recommend it in a heartbeat.
I work at a dealership and our treatment process we apply it in the booster hose. Way better results. Just did this on my car and runs much better. Though we use WYNNs induction system clean. Works great. Its a 2can system one goes in the gas other application is poured in a bottle and hose to where the booster hose goes. Run at 1800-2200 and then drive the hell out of it. I
agreed............and easier to monitor the engine idle... by controlling the amount of air getting sucked through. I use a tool end to block the hose nearly fully - w the spray tube in... and I can adjust slightly as needed. no need to mess w the gas pedal.
You need to hold the rpm's at around 2k while spraying bursts for this to work properly. Otherwise almost nothing gets past the throttle plate. It actually works quite well when done right.
@@jackgallagher4850really long arms or a really short car. Or, you could literally use anything long enough and adjustable (including the seat movement) to press the pedal, try the arm stretcher first.
No doesn't look Any clean, looks like you'll need at least 10 Can's for the job, that's was after 1hr or after driving for 10mins, either way your gona need more cans
When it's this bad the only thing that works is to manually scrub the valves and/or use a walnut blaster. Once you get it back to relatively carbon free, something like CRC can be used at or near the oil change interval to greatly slow the buildup. That being said, direct injection engines will ALWAYS create carbon deposits. BTW, this video could have been 4 minutes long and been just as informative. We really didn't need to see you spray the entire contents of the can.
I did follow this and your video with Lucas GDI treatment and my work went vewry well. I was done for very first time on our KIA RIO with 90.000 miles on it. Thank you!
O'Reillys has redline concentrated complete fuel system cleaner. It's has one of the highest amounts of PEA. I have used it and have also seen videos with good results
I think it would work better if you followed the directions on the can and sprayed it in thru a vacuum line connected directly to the manifold rather than spraying it before the throttle body.
@@skyhawk470 it's literally easier than disassembling your intake, and makes the product work much more effectively. Popping the vacuum line off your brake booster is quicker and less labor intensive than undoing hose clamps and removing intake piping.
It's means holding the can sideways not pointing it sideways. You can spray it in a sideways direction, but you're not supposed to hold the can sideways no matter what direction it's spraying in.
After watching this video, first one should do this every 2-30k miles. If you wait until the car has 90,000+ miles on it, it will take you 2000,000 time of doing this to clean the damn thing up. Hyundai, I believes, recommends this every 30k miles...I see why!!
Okay one question if the gas is not hitting the back of the valves how’s it hitting the back of the valves when you spray it through the throttle body don’t the gas go through the same into the injector
In a GDI the fuel goes in after the valves. The fuel which is a cleaner does not wash the valves. Air intake comes in before the valves. By putting the cleaner in thru the throttle body allows the entire valve to be cleaned.
When you drop the scope down at the end. Put a side by side comparison photo up as well. It would improve the quality of your work and show the difference
If you spray it from the throttle body, it goes through the map sensor, but the manual says that it is sprayed from the back of the map sensor.. Doesn't the map sensor or various error codes appear even when spraying from the front of the map sensor?
Thankfully I believe all GDI engines made these days have extra injectors at the intake to spray the valves periodically, just to keep them clean. If you're car is newer than 2016, it's basically fine.
Did it on my dad's 14 Optima 2.4L and had a buddy hold the revs @ 2.5K RPM. Sprayed on the TB, brake booster, & PCV line. The can last a good while and let it heat soak for 1hr. Hopefully we'll see a difference!
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO I would love for you to segment on preventive maintenance for GDI engines. Not too many out there for that. Especially if it will save me time and money
distilled water worked better because it make steam and that clean every thing and will not hurt anything in the motor, been doing this for 45 plus year
CAN YOU DAMP A Q TIP? WITH THROTTLE CLEANER AND SWAB AWAY THE CARBON? OR USE A TOOTHBRUSH? OR WOULD THAT BE ASKING FOR ISSUES WITH THE INTAKE VALVE SEALS?
Sure I don't see why, if you can physically access the valves, why shouldn't you manually scrape off as much gunk as you can? The whole danger here is, while trying to clean gunk off your valves, its possible to create damage that is even worse than what you are trying to fix. Worst case scenario is that this valve cleaning dislodges something, something sticky, that lodes between a valve and its valve seat. Thus preventing the valve from seating properly by closing all the way. IF this happens, that valve can burn up in a matter of a few hundred miles, because the valves depend on that momentary contact between the valves and their seats that is essentially a heat sink for the valves, especially the exhaust valve. And since that is what soaks up some of the heat: if the valve can't seat properly, you will be doing a valve job shortly.
I feel like the engine would be consuming more of the can more efficiently if you would’ve stuck the straw past the plastic tubing in front of the throttle body the whole time instead of halfway thru that way some of the cleaner doesn’t pool in the flexible ridges of the intake boot
I dont think Direct Injection has any upsides in an engine. I have a 1971 C/20 trk with a 360ci, oil catch can installed with carburetor. I use the same bore scope u got there, and my valves are as clean as can be
I predict you will have to spray many cans for so long the time required will use up the rest of the engines service life. That said, about $100,00 worth of CRC, a year continuous and a set of engine internals and you're good!
works for me - (non GTI)/ Ive done several treatments with hundreds of miles between sessions. definate improvement! I spray it slowly into the brake booster vacuum hose (mostly blocked w a tool end... careful!: strong vacuum)
First valve before and after 00:56 09:07 If you screen shot and compare like any normal person would do in their video even if it was the very first video like any person of low to avg IQ would have done you will see hardly any difference. In addition, catch cans do nothing to prevent carbon build up.
Nate, you should do a video when using CRC on turbo engines, I see that you have Hyundai's to test, it will be nice where is the best place to add the CRC on Santa fe's 2.0 T from 2013-2016.
Find the air filter then remove air filter. If you have a mass air flow sensor insert the straw on the fuel cleaner can past the sensor so when you spray it doesnt hit the sensor also you may need to close the air filter box as much as possible leaving only room for the cleaner straw or the car will idle poorly while performing test however you may be able to raise rpm to 2500 before you open air box with mass air flow sensor and be able to leave box open until you finish otherwise close as much as possible and perform all task at your own risk im not responsible i have to say for legal purposes
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO thanks but I already know this process since it's the same principle of your good videos, but I am sure if you can show us how to do it on Hyundai 2.0t motors from 2013+, I am sure lot of the followers have them, most of the people go for turbo motors and I am sure you will get more views since doing this to turbo its a little complex, the throttle body it's not accessible as your 2.4l motor, it's beneath of the air filter.
You probably would have gotten even better results had you sprayed directly into the intake instead of on the intake hose. You sprayed directly onto the bottom and then top of the hose. I'm sure it was spotless.....
You'd be surprised how little this kind of build up affects the operation... It's awful either way but there are Hyundai GDi engines out there with over 500,000 miles on them and have never had any form of carbon cleaning
@@19jacobob93 , I had a Mini Cooper Turbo, with 80K miles and it was running super bad would smoke like hell at stop lights. I check the pipe smell and it smelled like carbon, not oil.. So.... my son and I did the CRC tubo/valve cleaner thing and over a 2 week period got better gas mileage and better throttle control. I now know I waited to long. I got a Honda CIVIC and at 30,000 will do the CRC cleaning.
Did u happen to make the catch can? Also, is this the same engine u always clean valves on? If so, how many miles do u put on before u clean your valves?
Yes true this particular video was made a while back when i used crc last however typically 10000 miles apart if the product actually makes a difference otherwise less time
This is the lazy way to clean your valve, let's be honest. He didn't even remove the intake MANIFOLD to access the intake ports. GET IN THERE AND CLEAN YOUR PORTS MAN.
When you do these cleanings you want to romp on the throttle while doing it. Not staying at a constant rpm because it could leave and produce it's own carbon. It's best to romp on it a bunch to brake it loose and to force the cleaner places it's not getting at low rpm believe me it blows stuff out the tail pipe
If that Image of the Valve you show is Genuine it is Idiotic to use Cleaner and have all of it go thru the Engine, on that particular engine it would have been faster to remove the intake roll each cylinder to TDC and do a proper clean and Vacuum. But what do I know.
The carbon will break free if not cleaned regardless so preventive maintenance is key. Roll? Top dead center on the compression stroke ? Yes there is much more than needs done for a manual cleaning. Dont allow it to become this bad and if something is familiar with automotive plus they feel its worth a manual cleaning they will have knowledge on how to do so already. Not to mention that the point is to see if the cleaner works but let share information but be happy when doing so i know you are having a bad day but its ok thanks.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO If you do that to someone's Vehicle they will have a bad day!! "The carbon will break free if not cleaned regardless so preventive maintenance is key" So because the Carbon is going to break free anyway it is OK to let it go thru the engine??? That Vehicle has way to much buildup to be doing what you are doing! If you don't get that I would not know what else to say.
Build up that bad really needs manual cleaning. If you did manage to get them cleanup, running that much carbon build up through your cat would not be good for it.
Gdi engines do not have valves exactly the same as a 2 stroke engine!
They aren't the same as a two stroke sir
Also gdi engines use valves intake and exhaust
People have issues
Lol
Lmao...my last 2 stroke was a Lawn Boy lawnmower....in the 80's
I just used your video as a guide to clean the intake valves on my Hyundai Elantra GT. I used the CRC cleaner, let it sit for one hour, then drove it on the highway. I have noticed that I have smoother acceleration, an increase in power, and the idle speed is slightly higher. Since I now know how to do it I will be cleaning my valves regularly. Thanks for making this video.
makeminefreedom how many miles were on it when you used the CRC cleaner for the first time?
Yeah how many miles were on it?
I just did my 2019 Si with 30,000 miles on it and noticed a slight improvement. Nothing drastic. And I've had a catch can in the car since 15,000. If this is done from the beginning of the vehicles life and done regularly it will definitely help. If you wait until high mileage then you'll definitely need a professional cleaning. Then after that the CRC can help maintain it.
A few months ago I Did two treatments in a row with 200miles of highway driving and an oil change in between, the Results have been absolutely amazing. Cleaned 70k worth of build up without causing any issues.
Wow. What kind of car do you have
Did you wait in between treatments or the same day
CRC say after doing this treatment it keeps improving over the next 8 days or so of consecutive driving. So it would be interesting to see another borescope view after a week or so of regular driving. But it was a definite improvement, I could see bare valve metal in the second shots after the treatment, although it's a really bad case and may need a few treatments to really see a good improvement. If a car gets that bad it might be worth doing a full removal and walnut blast to get it to a state where it can be maintained by regular CRC treatments. I have a new GDI car, and I'm planning to do a CRC GDI treatment one week before each annual oil change interval. Hopefully that'll prevent it getting to that state.
I can tell you that having CC'd my RS4, this stuff works when you actually remove the intake manifold and let it sit in the chamber with the valves seated closed. It actually melts the carbon which can them be scrapped , wire brushed and vacuum sucked out of the chamber and off the valve surfaces much easier. I've never tried spraying into the throttle body as it obviously failed to do anything as seen in this video.
How to do ? I have R36 ... please any video or site ? Thanks
@@babagandu R36 should be pretty simple. You'll want to order a set of manifold gaskets first, though.
1. remove the intake manifold.
2. check to see which cylinders have the valves closed.
3. Spray a small amount of cleaner into the ports with the closed valves, and ONLY the ones with closed valves. I'd say about a 5 second burst per valve should give them a good enough coating to start.
4. Use several long zip-ties to get in and physically agitate the gunk.
5. Spray some more to get a good soup that you can remove with rags/towels.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 until the valves are clean.
7. Rotate the engine until the valves are closed on the remaining cylinders.
8. Repeat steps 3-6 on those cylinders.
9. Replace gaskets and install manifold.
10. Drive a few miles.
11. Change engine oil.
used it in my gen coupe 3.8, i got it at 71k miles and doubted there was ever an intake valve clean done beforehand. at 80k miles i did 1 can, followed instructions carefully. For the 10 min highway driving, i filled up from empty premium gas from Shell and mixed with a full fuel system cleaner additive whos name escapes me atm. after ~3 days i could definitely, albeit subtly, notice it was quicker to come to power, and felt less sluggish if you will.
I bought this product somewhat skeptically after watching this video. I dont know what my intakes look like, but ive always ran sams club premium every fill up in the car, so they probably haven't been as bad as the engine in the video.
If your intake heads look like this guys, this product wont do it in 5 or maybe any # of cans. I had a good experience (for only ~12$) and i recommend it in a heartbeat.
Gas in a direct injection car has nothing to do with carbon build up in the intakes. I'm sure you knew that
@vw3576 it still cleans the injector and maybe the cylinder wall and the piston but your right it doesn't clean the valves
I work at a dealership and our treatment process we apply it in the booster hose. Way better results. Just did this on my car and runs much better. Though we use WYNNs induction system clean. Works great. Its a 2can system one goes in the gas other application is poured in a bottle and hose to where the booster hose goes. Run at 1800-2200 and then drive the hell out of it. I
That won't work on this car putting cleaner in the tank won't clean the valves
No sir that's the old school method it will not work on GDI
@@flowstyle69 Remind me not to go to his dealership!
Your still a legend a year later 😂
agreed............and easier to monitor the engine idle... by controlling the amount of air getting sucked through. I use a tool end to block the hose nearly fully - w the spray tube in... and I can adjust slightly as needed. no need to mess w the gas pedal.
You need to hold the rpm's at around 2k while spraying bursts for this to work properly. Otherwise almost nothing gets past the throttle plate. It actually works quite well when done right.
how am i supposed to hold the rpms at 2k and spray the cleaner in at same time
@@jackgallagher4850 get something that weighs enough to keep the gas pedal held in to 2k rpm
@@jackgallagher4850 a friend
@@jackgallagher4850 have you watched the video at all??? It literally shows a big stick holding down the gas pedal.
@@jackgallagher4850really long arms or a really short car.
Or, you could literally use anything long enough and adjustable (including the seat movement) to press the pedal, try the arm stretcher first.
No doesn't look Any clean, looks like you'll need at least 10 Can's for the job, that's was after 1hr or after driving for 10mins, either way your gona need more cans
Do it once a week and in a few years they'll finally be clean.
When it's this bad the only thing that works is to manually scrub the valves and/or use a walnut blaster. Once you get it back to relatively carbon free, something like CRC can be used at or near the oil change interval to greatly slow the buildup. That being said, direct injection engines will ALWAYS create carbon deposits. BTW, this video could have been 4 minutes long and been just as informative. We really didn't need to see you spray the entire contents of the can.
Some people were saying it's bad to use a walnut blaster for some reason
I did follow this and your video with Lucas GDI treatment and my work went vewry well. I was done for very first time on our KIA RIO with 90.000 miles on it. Thank you!
Would be nice to have a side by side before and after. Honestly I see no signifigant difference.
I can watch this guy’s videos and listening him talking all day
It does look somewhat better. It’s does continue cleaning for a while after treatment, but this looks like it’ll need a few more treatments.
What can we try next?
Have u tried something as simple as water, just to see if chemical is worth the cost
How bout DIESEL ??
O'Reillys has redline concentrated complete fuel system cleaner. It's has one of the highest amounts of PEA. I have used it and have also seen videos with good results
Yes flex glue
Thanks i will try and speed up the process to use this
I think it would work better if you followed the directions on the can and sprayed it in thru a vacuum line connected directly to the manifold rather than spraying it before the throttle body.
not everyone wants to be screwing with vacuum lines
@@skyhawk470 it's literally easier than disassembling your intake, and makes the product work much more effectively. Popping the vacuum line off your brake booster is quicker and less labor intensive than undoing hose clamps and removing intake piping.
Where do you place your scope?
5:05 the can literally says don’t spray sideways.
Sir it doesn't it says you can do this and thats one of the best parts of crc
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO sir I just bought a can this morning and it says in bold letters upside down is ok but not to use it side ways
Sir i also do things so the camera can get a view of whats happening. As long as you can spray the cleaner your fine.
It's means holding the can sideways not pointing it sideways. You can spray it in a sideways direction, but you're not supposed to hold the can sideways no matter what direction it's spraying in.
Was there not a more direct way to apply the chemical? I removed an intake temp sensor from my wrx and sprayed directly into each intake runner
Don’t you have to take the map sensor off since your spraying upstream of it?
Yes without question. You should never spray the MAF sensor with cleaner. It needs to be sprayed after it or removed.
@@thinkforyourself5672 I asked about a m.a.p sensor not MAF, and yes you can spray with MAP not MAF still on.
Where do you live man? That background when you went for that drive was beautiful bro
After watching this video, first one should do this every 2-30k miles. If you wait until the car has 90,000+ miles on it, it will take you 2000,000 time of doing this to clean the damn thing up. Hyundai, I believes, recommends this every 30k miles...I see why!!
Lucus recommends every 10k.. their stray is great too
Okay one question if the gas is not hitting the back of the valves how’s it hitting the back of the valves when you spray it through the throttle body don’t the gas go through the same into the injector
In a GDI the fuel goes in after the valves. The fuel which is a cleaner does not wash the valves. Air intake comes in before the valves. By putting the cleaner in thru the throttle body allows the entire valve to be cleaned.
Exactly how do you get the borescope into the engine to see the valves?
When you drop the scope down at the end. Put a side by side comparison photo up as well. It would improve the quality of your work and show the difference
how often should this be done on a new car? every 30k miles?
Can you show where to spray on a Ford fusion with 2.0 eco boost turbo?
This can destroy catalyst right? if all that deposit leave in to the engine.
Apparently yes, but if the issue is minor usually the chunks get burnt in the converter, if too much goes in though it could get clogged.
How many miles on this engine?
Need to start running an oil catch can....
When you are using the camera, are you going in through the spark plug holes?
GDI = Gunk in Da Intake :0)
If you spray it from the throttle body, it goes through the map sensor, but the manual says that it is sprayed from the back of the map sensor.. Doesn't the map sensor or various error codes appear even when spraying from the front of the map sensor?
Thanks. Just confirmed to stay away from GDI engines.
Its becoming harder as they use this more and more but its greatly improved.
PFI can get bad too but obviously not as bad
Thankfully I believe all GDI engines made these days have extra injectors at the intake to spray the valves periodically, just to keep them clean. If you're car is newer than 2016, it's basically fine.
8:50 Ahora... Now...
Did it on my dad's 14 Optima 2.4L and had a buddy hold the revs @ 2.5K RPM. Sprayed on the TB, brake booster, & PCV line. The can last a good while and let it heat soak for 1hr. Hopefully we'll see a difference!
Any difference?
Preventive maintenance is important so future problems do not occur.
What can we try next?
CRC Intake Cleaner VS STP Pro Intake Clansr? Which one is better?
This stuff works great. Just be careful. Destroyed my catylatic converters costing me 3400 to replace. Gdi sucks
Preventive maintenance would prevent that.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO I would love for you to segment on preventive maintenance for GDI engines. Not too many out there for that. Especially if it will save me time and money
distilled water worked better because it make steam and that clean every thing and will not hurt anything in the motor, been doing this for 45 plus year
I heard about this approach. does it really work? and you would approach the same way with the water?
They need to come up with valve surface material that will almost completely repel deposits, there must be a way!
Yes im sure redline up next how well can it perform
Disc braje cleaner works just how u descrived it thank me later
What's the music in the background?
CAN YOU DAMP A Q TIP? WITH THROTTLE CLEANER AND SWAB AWAY THE CARBON? OR USE A TOOTHBRUSH? OR WOULD THAT BE ASKING FOR ISSUES WITH THE INTAKE VALVE SEALS?
Sure I don't see why, if you can physically access the valves, why shouldn't you manually scrape off as much gunk as you can? The whole danger here is, while trying to clean gunk off your valves, its possible to create damage that is even worse than what you are trying to fix.
Worst case scenario is that this valve cleaning dislodges something, something sticky, that lodes between a valve and its valve seat. Thus preventing the valve from seating properly by closing all the way. IF this happens, that valve can burn up in a matter of a few hundred miles, because the valves depend on that momentary contact between the valves and their seats that is essentially a heat sink for the valves, especially the exhaust valve. And since that is what soaks up some of the heat: if the valve can't seat properly, you will be doing a valve job shortly.
How do you get the car to stay at 2000 rpm without anyone pushing on the gas pedal?
I used a dumbbell carefully placed on the gas pedal
You didn't show where you put the probe to see the valves. I wish you had shown that.
What’s that tiny pink filter for next to the throttle body House
I feel like the engine would be consuming more of the can more efficiently if you would’ve stuck the straw past the plastic tubing in front of the throttle body the whole time instead of halfway thru that way some of the cleaner doesn’t pool in the flexible ridges of the intake boot
1.6 Hyundai Veloster?
I dont think Direct Injection has any upsides in an engine. I have a 1971 C/20 trk with a 360ci, oil catch can installed with carburetor. I use the same bore scope u got there, and my valves are as clean as can be
Yeah the important aspect of direct injection is that its here to stay and i imagine with emissions laws the worst is yet to come
GDI yields more power, efficiency, and lower emissions than their MPI counterparts
Yeah more benefits
Watch best oil th-cam.com/video/pjF1sJ5VeXM/w-d-xo.html
Direct injection Works better in the cold. Dont have warm your car up
I predict you will have to spray many cans for so long the time required will use up the rest of the engines service life. That said, about $100,00 worth of CRC, a year continuous and a set of engine internals and you're good!
are you putting your scope all the way through the intake to view the valves or taking the intake off?
What vehicle are you trying to check the valves on?
not a specific vehicle, just curious on how you were doing it
Do you use this before an oil change, or after? Do you have to change your oil or can you just leave it in for 3 or 5,000 miles?
Before oil change as oil will get dirty
works for me - (non GTI)/ Ive done several treatments with hundreds of miles between sessions. definate improvement! I spray it slowly into the brake booster vacuum hose (mostly blocked w a tool end... careful!: strong vacuum)
How many miles were on this engine and how was it driven?
All of them from the looks of things.
Will it work better if it heat soaks longer? I'm thinking about doing this before I start my shift at work(10 hours)
First valve before and after
00:56
09:07
If you screen shot and compare like any normal person would do in their video even if it was the very first video like any person of low to avg IQ would have done you will see hardly any difference.
In addition, catch cans do nothing to prevent carbon build up.
Computer data proves that it does help. there is a video on it, stop lying.
I was expecting better results.
Nate, you should do a video when using CRC on turbo engines, I see that you have Hyundai's to test, it will be nice where is the best place to add the CRC on Santa fe's 2.0 T from 2013-2016.
Find the air filter then remove air filter. If you have a mass air flow sensor insert the straw on the fuel cleaner can past the sensor so when you spray it doesnt hit the sensor also you may need to close the air filter box as much as possible leaving only room for the cleaner straw or the car will idle poorly while performing test however you may be able to raise rpm to 2500 before you open air box with mass air flow sensor and be able to leave box open until you finish otherwise close as much as possible and perform all task at your own risk im not responsible i have to say for legal purposes
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO thanks but I already know this process since it's the same principle of your good videos, but I am sure if you can show us how to do it on Hyundai 2.0t motors from 2013+, I am sure lot of the followers have them, most of the people go for turbo motors and I am sure you will get more views since doing this to turbo its a little complex, the throttle body it's not accessible as your 2.4l motor, it's beneath of the air filter.
I will locate a turbo for demonstration
I understand
I've done it on a 2013 hyundai sonata 2.0t, it's easy to use by spraying into the pcv hose that leads to the intake manifold.
Thanks for this video simple and straight to the point with proof
I appreciate you i am thankful for persons such as yourself.
In my area, walnut blasting service costs 8 cans of crc. There's no reason not to use this product.
I did this and check engine light started flashing ? Any idea why?
Poss misfire from use.
You probably would have gotten even better results had you sprayed directly into the intake instead of on the intake hose. You sprayed directly onto the bottom and then top of the hose. I'm sure it was spotless.....
Can also find a vacuum line and spray into that
How is that engine still working?
Check out my liqui moly video
You'd be surprised how little this kind of build up affects the operation... It's awful either way but there are Hyundai GDi engines out there with over 500,000 miles on them and have never had any form of carbon cleaning
@@19jacobob93 , I had a Mini Cooper Turbo, with 80K miles and it was running super bad would smoke like hell at stop lights. I check the pipe smell and it smelled like carbon, not oil.. So.... my son and I did the CRC tubo/valve cleaner thing and over a 2 week period got better gas mileage and better throttle control. I now know I waited to long. I got a Honda CIVIC and at 30,000 will do the CRC cleaning.
Can I use this on a car with 155K miles ? I have never done it before.
Yes.
What if there is 2 intake valves
Clean both I’m guessing or is 1 fine
Can it used befor the throttle body or before the turbo is it make any difference ?!
the directions on the back of the can say to spray it thru a vacuum line connected directly to the intake manifold, such as the brake booster line.
Follow manufacturer's recommendations. For none turbo it say spray past mass air flow sensor into the intake.
Did u happen to make the catch can? Also, is this the same engine u always clean valves on? If so, how many miles do u put on before u clean your valves?
Video said valves were cleaned directly after last crc treatment for 2nd cleaning
Yes true this particular video was made a while back when i used crc last however typically 10000 miles apart if the product actually makes a difference otherwise less time
hot soak - for ~ 2hrs. also takes abit of driving.
I just get myself a Toyota, their engines use both direct AND port injection so there is no carbon buildup in the first place!
The issue isnt typically as bad but possible cleaning annually can be beneficial in many ways even for the combustion chamber
I had such High Hopes for the CRC, not a good finish.
You throttle body plate need# to be about 39% open to get the best results, so rev 5he engine to 2500-2800 rpm.
Where did you buy the oil catch can at?
Ebay but i add special filter
What kind of scope camera are you using?
You can find a inexpensive scope as the scope i use is very expensive for professional filming
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO What brand are you using?
FLUKE
Unnecessary for diy only for high quality video
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO 👌😊 Thank you very much. Greetings from Norway 🇳🇴
How many miles did this vehicle have
When i first purchased 40000 and this problem was already bad however thats why i chose this vehicle others of the same make and model weren't as bad
Thank you!
Nothing help. Remove intake & clean manually will be better.
Should i do this once a month till its completely clean?
That would be great then just once every 15000 miles or 30000 if you do not use much oil between oil changes
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO thank you :)
Yes
Works great thank you
I appreciate you
Brow I got to say that didn't work at all. It was all too dirty and probably need to pull appart and clean the entire valve system.
This is the lazy way to clean your valve, let's be honest. He didn't even remove the intake MANIFOLD to access the intake ports. GET IN THERE AND CLEAN YOUR PORTS MAN.
Not everybody has a garage to work on this
Take the intake manifold and do it direct to the valves
But don't you need the heat too? If you spray it on relatively cold, I wonder if it will still work.
Crc for turbos also
Thats true
Can i use this on non Direct injector engine (gdi) ?
No need to! The injectors fire right behind the valve and clean it !!! Fuel is the best cleaner !!
Yes you can some port injection do not need cleaning as much but good for a routine maintenance.
Wouldn't be a point
Yes. The other two commenters don’t know what they’re talking about. Non Di engines build up carbon as well on the valves, not just as quickly
Better off in port injection vs direct injection
When you do these cleanings you want to romp on the throttle while doing it. Not staying at a constant rpm because it could leave and produce it's own carbon. It's best to romp on it a bunch to brake it loose and to force the cleaner places it's not getting at low rpm believe me it blows stuff out the tail pipe
The car actually does this on its own but i also do this per instructions
You do that AFTER application when you go for a drive. The deposits will continue to break up over the next month.
Very helpful
Thanks
Doing this to a Hyundai Tucson 2016. Hopefully my turbo runs like normal again
Time to pull the head and clean it or replace it
Not now it makes for a good test
Naaa, thats beyond fluid cleaning
Man you could scrap and vacuum that crap easily, at least those huge chunks.
Great video
I appreciate you
Jesus all it did was move the carbon chunks to a more critical area.
The tube that has the camera, run the cleaner through that
Thanks for your suggestions
Thanks Boss!
Thank you
I might do it twice .
This is high quality stuff
As dirty as those are I would have used tap water first then the crc. I'm an old school guy and I know water misted used to be the go to for carbon
Most people would spray too much water. Their newer engine hydolock easy
Cleaned off the front..look at the crap on the back side..
If that Image of the Valve you show is Genuine it is Idiotic to use Cleaner and have all of it go thru the Engine, on that particular engine it would have been faster to remove the intake roll each cylinder to TDC and do a proper clean and Vacuum. But what do I know.
The carbon will break free if not cleaned regardless so preventive maintenance is key. Roll? Top dead center on the compression stroke ? Yes there is much more than needs done for a manual cleaning. Dont allow it to become this bad and if something is familiar with automotive plus they feel its worth a manual cleaning they will have knowledge on how to do so already. Not to mention that the point is to see if the cleaner works but let share information but be happy when doing so i know you are having a bad day but its ok thanks.
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO If you do that to someone's Vehicle they will have a bad day!! "The carbon will break free if not cleaned regardless so preventive maintenance is key"
So because the Carbon is going to break free anyway it is OK to let it go thru the engine??? That Vehicle has way to much buildup to be doing what you are doing!
If you don't get that I would not know what else to say.
Build up that bad really needs manual cleaning. If you did manage to get them cleanup, running that much carbon build up through your cat would not be good for it.