This was a great video tutorial, took me a half hour to replace the whole assembly. Too many people bitching about what they would've done I suggest these geniuses create their own video
Great video clear and well done. I would have replaced BOTH the mount and the rubber/metal spring seat as these are a known weak point on Volvos and are relatively cheap. I'd hate to replace the mount only to find that the spring seat lets go 2 months later. All those wonderful workshop tools like that spring compressor make the job so easy and safe.
6:59 clearly shows no splines left on the spring seat! That is most likely what caused (and will keep causing) the noise that made the driver bring it in.
Thank you for your feedback! You are absolutely right - when replacing shock strut mount, it is desirable to replace also rolling contact bearing. When making our next videos, we will consider it. Thank you for your being attentive! Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk Specific to this exact strut (not all struts) there is a wing style nut ('X nut') below the mount that holds the spring - my understanding is that nothing will shoot out unless you remove this wingnut below the mount.
Thank you for the feedback! This video shows only the principle of replacing the spring, in practice, of course, it is necessary to change the accompanying elements of the suspension as well. Best Regards, Autodoc.
I agree, when I changed a set on an XC70, on the second side I left the bearing and plate installed in the car and just removed the strut with rubber seat. I didn't see any point to removing the bearing plate. Incidentally, while Volvo may make a quality vehicle, after working on many makes of cars, this is the worst design that I have ever encountered. Many pictures on the net of struts broken completely through the rubber mount and I would imagine many damaged hoods.
I still maintain that with the proper quality seemly that it is safer to get a “Quick Strut” assembly. All the danger of compressing the spring is already done at the factory and shipped out ready to just Remove/Replace. It might be a bit more $$. But removes the danger and again as long as it is a decent quality assembly you have piece of mind of not only new struts but fresh shiny new coil springs. The added cost of initial investment is offset by the reduced labor of the spring remove and replacement. The risk of a coil spring coming off the compressor is reduced twice one for removal and again for re assembly. I
@@autodocuk would you mind showing them or at least putting a link to where to find them? Don’t get me wrong great no nonsense video. Maybe just add something like “be sure to check all torque values “ or something
Thank you for the feedback! It is recommended to check all other parts while the replacing of strut mount and in case of damage, change them simultaneously with the strun. Best Regards, Autodoc
autodoc.co.uk No, it's recommended to always replace the rubber springholder if you need to replace the bearingpart. Lifespan on the rubberpart is shorter than the bearingpart, if bearing is worn the rubber is too. Only exception to this is, if the rubberpart was replaced a short while ago. If you do not replace the rubber springholder, you will shorten the lifespan of the bearing. It's not a case of check if needing to replace, it do need replace if the bearing was worn. Most serious partstores do not even sell those two parts separately.
Thank you for the feedback! This video is considered to be an informative one, and it shows the sequence of repairs, so some stages of the repairs might have been excluded. Best regards, Autodoc.
AutoDoc I changed my full strut assembly on front right side and new brake pads. Now it squeals when i turn right but no squeal on just straight forward brake compression or left turns, and this is at low speeds only. Do you think this is the strut or do the brakes just need more silicone grease/disc brake quiet? 05 xc90 t6 -thanks
Thank you for your feedback! Most likely an extraneous sound is connected with the fact that the new brake pads rub against the shoulder of the old brake disc. Best Regards, Autodoc.
alright,damnit...looks like I'm gonna have to build one of those "factory "brush guards....I like it...on the wifes xc.....not on my S40....well perhaps.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you.! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. The music can be turned off in the area below the video for your comfort.. Best regards, Autodoc.
Първо: при отвивне на биалетката самата тя не се върти ,за да не се усуква маншона ,а се държи само контра Второ: за смяната само на лагера ,не се налага да се свива пружината
Thank you for the feedback! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Best regards, Autodoc.
Christ.. with a little editing you could have made this video be only 5 minutes.. did I really need to see the guy taking lug nuts off one at a time or the car coming down on the lift at actual speed? Hell no. Informative, but thumbs down from me.
This was a great video tutorial, took me a half hour to replace the whole assembly. Too many people bitching about what they would've done I suggest these geniuses create their own video
Thank you for the feedback! It’s great to know that our video was useful! Follow our upcoming updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
No emotion wasted on such practical work. Efficient and effective placement of body, tool and component.
Hi! Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Great video clear and well done. I would have replaced BOTH the mount and the rubber/metal spring seat as these are a known weak point on Volvos and are relatively cheap. I'd hate to replace the mount only to find that the spring seat lets go 2 months later. All those wonderful workshop tools like that spring compressor make the job so easy and safe.
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
did you have a clunking noise when going over bumps ???
This is my new favourite channel, hard up, straight tutorial with no mucking around +1
Thank you for the feedback! We are grateful that you appreciate our media! To see more interesting content stay tuned. Best Regards, Autodoc.
so far the best one for this topic thank you very simple explained and clear very profesional
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial will be helpful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
6:59 clearly shows no splines left on the spring seat! That is most likely what caused (and will keep causing) the noise that made the driver bring it in.
Thank you for your feedback! You are absolutely right - when replacing shock strut mount, it is desirable to replace also rolling contact bearing. When making our next videos, we will consider it. Thank you for your being attentive! Best regards, Autodoc.
Well done. great video. Might take off top 3 nuts before bottom 2 bolts to save time....but nice.
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
Can the strut mount be replace without the spring compression machine?
The spring definitely needs to be compressed, otherwise, when the support is unscrewed, it will simply shoot and can cause injury.
AUTODOC
yes. you need spring compressor tools. simple, quick and effective.
@@autodocuk Specific to this exact strut (not all struts) there is a wing style nut ('X nut') below the mount that holds the spring - my understanding is that nothing will shoot out unless you remove this wingnut below the mount.
what was the point in compressing the spring if you weren't replacing the rubber spring mount?
Thank you for the feedback! This video shows only the principle of replacing the spring, in practice, of course, it is necessary to change the accompanying elements of the suspension as well. Best Regards, Autodoc.
I agree, when I changed a set on an XC70, on the second side I left the bearing and plate installed in the car and just removed the strut with rubber seat. I didn't see any point to removing the bearing plate. Incidentally, while Volvo may make a quality vehicle, after working on many makes of cars, this is the worst design that I have ever encountered. Many pictures on the net of struts broken completely through the rubber mount and I would imagine many damaged hoods.
I still maintain that with the proper quality seemly that it is safer to get a “Quick Strut” assembly. All the danger of compressing the spring is already done at the factory and shipped out ready to just Remove/Replace. It might be a bit more $$. But removes the danger and again as long as it is a decent quality assembly you have piece of mind
of not only new struts but fresh shiny new coil springs. The added cost of initial investment is offset by the reduced labor of the spring remove and replacement. The risk of a coil spring coming off the compressor is reduced twice one for removal and again for re assembly.
I
are torque values not important here?
The torque values are very important.
AUTODOC
@@autodocuk would you mind showing them or at least putting a link to where to find them? Don’t get me wrong great no nonsense video. Maybe just add something like “be sure to check all torque values “ or something
Yes,struggle to find the torque values for the 2 top nuts(which screws on the actual shock)
Any help?
In this job you always replace the top spring mount. Not only the mount/bearing part.
Thank you for the feedback! It is recommended to check all other parts while the replacing of strut mount and in case of damage, change them simultaneously with the strun. Best Regards, Autodoc
autodoc.co.uk No, it's recommended to always replace the rubber springholder if you need to replace the bearingpart. Lifespan on the rubberpart is shorter than the bearingpart, if bearing is worn the rubber is too. Only exception to this is, if the rubberpart was replaced a short while ago.
If you do not replace the rubber springholder, you will shorten the lifespan of the bearing. It's not a case of check if needing to replace, it do need replace if the bearing was worn.
Most serious partstores do not even sell those two parts separately.
What about repacking the bearing in that upper mount ?
Thank you for your feedback! The upper bearing replacement sequence will be similar, as the video shows.Best regards, Autodoc.
Surprised that didnt use new bolts or loctite to bolts holding bottom of strut ,hope got top bolts aligned right for camber angle
Thank you for the feedback! This video is considered to be an informative one, and it shows the sequence of repairs, so some stages of the repairs might have been excluded. Best regards, Autodoc.
AutoDoc
I changed my full strut assembly on front right side and new brake pads. Now it squeals when i turn right but no squeal on just straight forward brake compression or left turns, and this is at low speeds only.
Do you think this is the strut or do the brakes just need more silicone grease/disc brake quiet?
05 xc90 t6 -thanks
Thank you for your feedback! Most likely an extraneous sound is connected with the fact that the new brake pads rub against the shoulder of the old brake disc. Best Regards, Autodoc.
alright,damnit...looks like I'm gonna have to build one of those "factory "brush guards....I like it...on the wifes xc.....not on my S40....well perhaps.
autodoc.co.uk what is the torque spec on the upper strut nut?
Make sure you follow the exact order from what he's doing, or you may end up some extra works
This music is terrible and why does the tool cart have to be right in the middle of the screen every other shot
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was helpful for you.! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. The music can be turned off in the area below the video for your comfort.. Best regards, Autodoc.
Първо: при отвивне на биалетката самата тя не се върти ,за да не се усуква маншона ,а се държи само контра
Второ: за смяната само на лагера ,не се налага да се свива пружината
Thank you for the feedback! Your opinion and remarks are very important for us. We will take them into consideration for our next tutorial. Best regards, Autodoc.
Christ.. with a little editing you could have made this video be only 5 minutes.. did I really need to see the guy taking lug nuts off one at a time or the car coming down on the lift at actual speed? Hell no. Informative, but thumbs down from me.