How to Change Front Brake Discs & Pads
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Brake pads consist of a backing plate and friction material. It is the friction material that comes into contact with the brake disc. Overtime the friction material wears down and your brakes become less effective at stopping your vehicle. The manufacturer of your vehicle will specify a minimum thickness of the friction material before the brake pads need to be replaced.When checking your brake pads, you should look at the inner and outer brake pads as they can wear at different rates. If your vehicle is fitted with alloy wheels looking at the thickness of the outer pad is not enough.Brake discs are made of cast iron. Like brake pads they can wear over time. Depending on your driving style, brake discs have a longer service life than the pads and do not require replacement every time pads are replaced. When you are inspecting brake discs you should check both sides.
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fantastic video, especially someone like me who knows very little about cars, this was a good step by step explanation and done in a logical manner for a novice where the presenter does not assume you understand how the job should be done. very helpful.
if you know very little about cars you cannot know where this person did things right and when he did things wrong...used the wrong lubricants and did not ensure safety critical bolts were correctly tightened and not over or under tightened.
Really nice video. Excellent contents and presentation. Appreciate the professional, two camera filming. I must have watched at least 30 videos on youtube on brake replacement (about to do my very first brake replacement), and this video is one of the best.
The only two details that I would add: 1) put anti-seize on hub before installing new rotor (could the brake grease be used instead?); 2) clean and then lube the caliper pins with the synthetic brake grease.
Faced with the daunting task of replacing my front break discs today, this was invaluable, thank you. Video was clear, well-lit, and fully detailed. The in-video link to parts department was useful too!
Brake
sMe
Excellent "How to" very clear and easy to follow only step I did differently was I greased the Hub after cleaning it of old rust so next time (If there is to be one, car has 200K miles) it should not have rusted up and no need for the hammer.
Really excellent, patient, methodical, easy to follow guide. Many thanks
An excellent video clearly demonstrated by someone who is of a very good skill level. Very helpful and useful video, many thanks!
This video came up as an advert and I really enjoyed it, very well put together.
Excellent video the makers should be proud of their work.
At last a clear 'how to' video!!! I'm defo doing this shit next week!!!
Studying at the moment Motor Technology. I am also doing my work experience. This video is just how I was taught in the work experience. Although we did not put grease. Great job 👏 👍 😜
Thanks for the video. I've always liked cars and driving. I've always wanted to get into the mechanical side of things. I'm gonna let a pro change my brake pads this time but next time I'll do it my self.
The very best "How To" tutorial to date. Keep it up guys, you are real good,,and thank you.
great mate 10/10 no razzmatazz no crappy jokes just plain simple down to earth how to do
thank you kindly your a gent
Brilliantly done step by step guide for diy. Well done to you guy's !
glad he reminded us to pump the brakes (as the other video I watched didn't )... All in all, well done (though kinda confused about the WD40 side of things?? are we meant to spray it on the rubber or not (was just reading other comments on here...
My present shed (kia picanto) took me 5 days of swearing changing the rear pads and disk, didnt know about rewind calipers, worst bit was when i put brake fluid into the coolant bottle, and eventually lost all the pressure in the system.
ps The rear off-side disk protection arch had rotted away and bits fell into the pads wrecking disk and pads. Also , no mention of the thin metal liners I got to fit over the cradle before inserting the pads and the hours spent grinding bits of of the pads to make the (cheapest) pads fit smoothly.
First thing you need is a long metal pole about a metre long to crack yer wheel nuts open after the tyre fitter put 160 1bs on it.
Which garage do you work at ? Quick fit?
Great, clear, practical video. Did I miss mention of torque settings - particularly for the carrier and the caliper bolts?
Remember to put some anti seize on the hub before you put the disc on, that will prevent it from sticking to the hub and make it a lot easier to get off next time.
But don’t get any anti seize on where the friction will take place.
Excellent and helpful videos, thanks
Great vid, both our cars are due new pads soon thanks .
Great and useful video,But a little criticism,
Where a mask when cleaning debris,especially where around brake components pad fine particles mixes in with rust,
Give piston a wipe befor pushing it back in,
There were no use of loctite on certain bolts,heat and vibration can cause used bolts to work there self loose.
Apart from that nice clear instructions,
Thank you
Probably should have compared the new and old pads before cutting the cable off mind, can't return them if they are wrong then :)
Super professional.
1) He didn't greased the sliding pins - one of the major causes for uneven wear of the break pads
2) repeatedly places brake discs and busy side of the pads on dirty floor
3) the rubber seals of the pistons were worn out
Nikolai Tsakov Thank you for the extra advice! I think this video was useful.
he also appears to have used standard low temperature grease on the end and backs of the pads... that stuff will melt and flow and eventually burn off! Also leaving the brake oil reservoir lid off in these types of jobs is a bad idea. Invites contamination of the hydraulic oil and risks spilling hydraulic fluid on paintwork if it squirts when the piston is pushed back. There is NO need to remove the cap, just slacken it off to let air pressure escape on piston pushback is more than sufficient! And he should have used torque wrench tightening the carrier bolts as they do need to be quite tight but not too tight as it can strip the threads in the carrier if you over cook it with a breaker bar like that.
thanks very nice video ive learned easyly
What about checking fluid level before compressing caliper to save stripping your paintwork with overflow?
Open the cap in the bonnet and put a rag in the top
I've always used copper slip on the back of the pads and a little when fitting the disc and nuts will help the next time they are removed,if your replacing both the pad and disc once you've removed the top of brake fluid filler cap you could pry back the cylinder prior to lifting the calliper by placing a large flat bladed screw driver between the old disc and pad. It's old school not recommended if your just replacing the pads.
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Excellent video and music relaxing 👍🏴😎
Excellent video, detailed and efficient, thanks !!!
In case no one else noticed the seal on caliper piston is failing, should have been replaced as it will start sticking before next pad change is due. What good does spraying on rubber seals with WD do?
Tommy P Yes, infact it rips @18:09 a little when he puts it on....
No checking for disc runout, by using a dial test gauge?
Thank you so much posting this video.. great job !!!!
Shouldn't the bleed screws on the calliper be opened when pushing the piston back as it could damage abs module or flip master cylinder valves when pushing brake fluid backward?? Or is that rule only applys when doing rear brake pads , anyone ??
DONT THINK SO
Wonderfully done.
Very detailed video....
hi thanks for the video but you didn't torque the any bolt .
Best video i've seen.
don't forget to torque your bolts up and put thread locker fluid onto the brake bracket bolts
Very useful, thank you!
Great video! Great detail! Thanks a lot!!!!
Brilliant guide
Great video!!!!
Didnt clean round the piston seal with nylon brush to get rid of old crud!
Good video but
Where’s the torque wrench
and why doesn’t he clean and use suitable grease on calliper slider pins?
I've always managed without using a torque wrench but felt a bit guilty (thinking thats what the pros use), now it looks like I was right all along, 40 years fixing sheds.
tightening bolts by feel is a gamble, a true professional will use a torque wrench on safety and reliability critical nuts and bolts like the carrier and slider bolts. Too loose and they could self loosen and cause brakes to fail, too tight and could strip threads in carrier or stretch bolts or make a rod for the next guys back if you over cook the torque but get away with it... the next mechanic will likely have to use heat to get the bolts undone next time.
great video !! alfred will find it very helpfull
What a great video
i tried that version on my momobike ,,, i never replaced the reservoir cap before i slowly pumped the brakes, same as this vid ,, but my fluid just spilled out everywhere ?? i recommend do cap up before pumping ?? ,, good vid tho apart from that
are these pagid brakes any good as they cost almost as much as brembo brakes
It's super easy to replace break pads, garages charge over a hundred quid
Great job, thanks.
I wonder why manufactures bother with torque wrench settings ?
No allen grub to hold the disc in place?
I need to replace steering rack gaiter at same time. Am I about there once discs are off or is there a lot more stripping down to do. I have heard there is a kit you can use to replace gaiter without stripping down the arm. Is this true??
You didn't put any grease on caliper pins?🤢
Its for a 2022 Nissan Altima
Pop
For the love of God don't spray WD 40 on slider pin boots!
good day just wanna know why not to spray WD 40 on the boots?
dion joseph
Hi,
the rubber boots, like all rubber things, is oil-based product. Because WD-40 is petroleum (ie. oil) based and since like-dissolves-like, WD-40 and any petro based lube will eat away at the boots. What you want to use is something safe for rubber parts like pure silicone lube or fully-synthetic brake lube.
Ste .L ..
Willie Stewart
Yes?
Not a professional job at all ,Can seem at least 4 things wrong or needful doing .answers on a post card ,ha ha ,failing that just reply
thanks very informative
Have a look at your cv boots while working on your brakes... this one looks like it may be leaking...
great back ground music, who is it by, album name, or artist?
Suspiciously skilful with the lubricant 😂
This boy awesome.
Good video
What size are break disk mk4 1.9 TDI 2001 6 gear manual UK
Is the vehicle in park (got hand brake on) ?
Shovel provides a
Should've cleaned & regreased the caliper slide pins with silicone paste
i thought this was a great video as i have to change my front brakes,
I didn’t know Lee Sharpe was a mechanic!
great video. Can't remember the end, the music made me drowse off though.
top job
When you got the right tools for the job.... It's obvious.
Oil tank 8
Exelleny😊
Do not put WD40 on rubber!
Not exactly rushing this job is he 😂
this a how not video? no torque wrench essential for beginners, no thread lock used on bolts! you should always remove clean and grease the sliding pins. The bleed screw was all corroded and cap missing. you should at least clean that and put penetration oil on it so when the need may come to use it its not stuck.
Should have changed his gloves, all that crease going onto the new disc and pads,....
is this auto porn?
COMPLIMENT!
Exellent,sorry😊
Erm wd40 on to the rubber?
Should av used Carboflo for rubber...
my man probably charge £15 for 30 min
good instructions. But that car mings.....
No torque wrench how you measure the force? Just by hand?
Hmmm ... are you a chef 👩🍳 by trade or a house wife fitter? 😂
So......the safety goggles??? Are they just for show, not the 1st vid I've seen that say you need them but don't wear them, better dig mine out and lay them next to me when I do mine today 😎
9:51 I see a crack on the new disk.
Soks
volume poor
Roter weet