How to build an Oak Timber Frame workshop. - lots of TIPS!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ย. 2024
- Jumping back on the tools and chipping away at the oak frame project. It's slow and steady but I can at least make out some progress!
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Rebate Plane - amzn.to/2QcJgVw
Block Plane - (not recommending just yet as blade poor)
Robert Sorby 1.5" Chisel - amzn.to/2M94QXT
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TIMber frame. Good job Tim 👍🏻
Wow 45k subscribers! I can remember when it was 3000! Well done.
"The Great Provider" :D Those cucumbers made hungry.
Lovely job. VERY nice!! Thank you for the footage. ~ratchet straps are underrated ALWAYS helpful!
Great job Tim! I thought your half laps were really great. I’d be inclined to allow a ‘penny gap’ on all of them to make life easier (give the joint a tiny bit of space in the future, and allows you a tiny bit of wiggle room whilst doing test assembly). I didn’t see whether they’re boxed heart, or halving, and obviously this makes a difference when considering where your radial shakes might start appearing.
Really impressed by your work rate. I know it feels like real slow progress when you’re working alone, but working green oak is tough. I personally do not use a chain morticer, but after watching this I really want one.
Incidentally, I use the two big Sorby framing chisels (yours look like Sorby) and have never had the cuts from sharp edges you spoke of. Glad you’re getting them sorted though. Anyway, keep it up and be careful (remember Jim at the Tradesmans Channel has educated us all about the importance of safety when timber framing recently!).
Hi Tim, you may already be doing this, but in case not.
When sharpening my plane irons and chisels, I recently started finishing the honing process with a leather strop, one side loaded from the abrasive bar which came with it, and the other side left plain. I do 24 strokes on the loaded side, 12 on the bevel side, and then 12 on the back. Then flip to the strop to the unloaded side and do 24 more, 12 bevel side first, then 12 back side. Once done the chisel or iron will normally shave my arm hairs quite well. If it does not then I repeat process. Hope that helps!
Hi mate love your channel found it though the camper series,Snapped my ankle last weekend so I will be going though your back catalogue,I really like your approach to your projects very considered,Any way I've fitted together a few oak cart barns/garages when I had a long run of work in Tunbridge Wells and the surroundings east sussex villages Rotherfield Flimwell amongst others,
Your going great get the leather strop and sharpen after each joint,no need to set up honing guide it will take less than 30 seconds with the slick,Keep the joints as tight as yon can because there gonna shrink,Also done some green oak gates as well for churches it's good fun enjoy it
Ouch hope the ankle recovers soon! Thanks for the tips. Yes trying to keep things snug as it won’t take long for things to shrink. Just need to get the frame put up before it has time to move too much sat in the garden.
Beautiful work Tim. I never tire of the chain mortiser. That is one amazing tool!
I see the Lidl pull saws got another outing on this. My smaller sized saw is getting a little blunt now, but it's done a lot of work. They are marvellous for the price, I bought them to see how I did with them before I paid decent money for something I may not have liked using. I do, and I will be choosing some soon.
A word of warning for anyone trying them, there will be blood the first time or two.
Cucumber cam is the best kind of cam :)
Hi Tim, How dry is the oak? Do you know when it was fallen?
What specifically do you ask for when buying timber for structural house building purposes? Is it treated in any way?
Great video. I like videos where the TH-camr tries to impart a bit of technical knowledge that viewers can use in their own project. What was that tool called - looked like a cross between a chainsaw and a router?
Great job Tim. A good mix of hand and power tools. Really impressed with the chain mortiser. By the way, is Thor asking for his hammer back when your finished?
He won’t want it now. Split the head in two yesterday! 🙄
Great videos Tim, could I ask what dimensions (thickness) you used on the laps, i.e the lap with the tenon in (bottom beam) appears on the video to be a little thicker than the lap on the top beam? Thanks
Love the Minecraft hammer!
Is all this wood 8”x8” ?
Guessing that’s a faithfull block plane you bought. The blade was rubbish.
I got a replacement Ray Iles blade from Workshopheaven.
With a bit of fettling & flattening the sole it’s really quite good now.
Didn’t realise that faithfull made a large block plane.
It’s terrible, it chipped on just oak. Will be fitting another blade like you have done. The larger plane seems to be holding its edge just fine so not sure why block plane so poor.
Quick tip, to remove black metal stains off green oak, oxalic acid with warm water. One part acid to ten or so parts water, in weight. Could use to clean up whole frame once done.
Yes have read that, even getting rid of water marking from rain, etc. I only just managed to get the black off my hands, found lemon was the only household thing that did it.
@@TheRestorationCouple great, I'll have to try that, so far IV not managed to remove the black of my hands. Thanks
What sharpener do you use Tim?
Does timber yard you bought oak from selling green oak or seasoned?
Both, dry boards and cladding but green sleepers and beams I believe.
Hello. I have a question. The sizes are 6x6 or 8x8?
6x6
@@TheRestorationCouple thank you it will give me a idea
Tim just use a petrol chain saw
I've been doing general joinery for about 10 years now I've been using and sharpening tools for a lot longer since my teens the blade in your block plane is it dulling very quickly or is it struggling to cut but still feels sharp
your standard angle block plane will need a lot more force to push through oak as it is pitched at a higher angle or about 21 degrees as well as your bevel on the blade 25 and if you are adding a micro bevel to your blades it works out at around 51 degrees which is higher than what a normal bench plane is personally I think you'd of been better with a low angle yes the blades smaller but it cuts so much nicer I've carried one in my tool belt for years. another lil tip for you on you planes usually faithful planes are pretty flat on the soles I personal fettle them all but to make them glide abit more easily use plain candle wax on the sole just a wavy line down the centre will do you and you will feel the difference straight away . last tip would be to strop your blades I know its an additional cost of about £4-5 but get a scrap of timber and a old leather belt and staple it on to and buy some auto sol chrome polish you can get it in b and q and wipe your plane irons and chisels over it but only use on thee pull stroke you can use it why your irons and chisels are still in the honing guide. If not get the auto sol and put it on a scrap of mdf and pull your blades trough it . hope this helps keep the videos coming. You never stop learning.
mfcman2k7 good tips! Thanks
Jesus Tim were did u learn all your skills.
Hope you’re asking permission from the Mrs for all these purchases 😂
We have a £50 threshold before discussions start! 😉
The Restoration Couple surprising what you can get for £49.99 👍
greg winno and always buy individual chisels rather than a set to sneak under the £50! 😁
I forgot... Are you building this at your house or your parents?
I think Tim is building it at his own house, but it will be moved to and get final assembly at his parents. If I recall an earlier video correctly.
Yep that’s correct. I need it finished as it is sat on the location of the potential workshop build.
@@TheRestorationCouple - cool. Can't wait to see the new workshop build!
i built a barn out of 100% air dried oak. i do not recommend it. the wood is like steel