Have you considered that rather than worry about not executing principles of 'scribe rule', you could just use 'square rule' methods (there's a perfectly square timber inside any irregular timber). It also looks pretty neat! Also, you can be a 'crafty carpenter' (as Joe Thompson, Weald & Downland, Carpenter in Residence, like to say), and build in a penny gap between your mortice and tenon (either make the mortice a penny width wider than the tenon, or the other way around). Then you can test fit with relative ease, and drawbore the joint together when the day comes. Just a thought. Loving your work! Thumbs up!!
Yes have read about the square rum before. Have come round to the idea of being a little less fussy with the tenons. Like you say, there is no need to be crazy tight and it only slows down the process.
Nice video. Is the short grain at the end of the mortise going to be an issue? I did a similar thing for a outdoor table frame and when the timber shrank, it popped. Fortunately it wasn’t a big issue for me as they were glued with epoxy and draw bored and the damage is covered by the table top. Anyway, thanks for the content!
Awesome work, all looks very professional to me, as a ham fisted diy'er. Could you have used your new bandsaw to cut the tenons? I realise that it would need major infeed support with that profile but would not need all the clean up with chisel and plane afterwards, or am I being over simplistic in my ignorance?
Yes with small timbers but like you say not possible with these really. You can of course buy a handheld beam bandsaw, but that would be a bit overkill for my setup.
Given that you have a fixed distance from the teeth to the end of the land you could just measure that from the first marking line and place a laminating plate held with a couple of clamps and that should make it way easier to get a proper and square cut.
While a cross cut jig works great with my smaller saws it may not be so effective with this one. It’s worth a go but as it’s so powerful It doesn’t like to be forced/steered much. I’m happy enough getting it through safely and somewhere close. It’s more powerful than many tablesaws and at this size don’t have riving knives so needs a bit of respect. 😬
No reason for oak over fir, like both. Green because dry oak would be very hard to work with. Not sure on cubic price as have always paid per unit. These 125x125x2400 were around £35 I think.
It’s fascinating to watch someone work the wood, thank you for sharing :)
Never mind oak door stops. Round all edges and corners, paint them up as giant garden dice for the girls.
Have you considered that rather than worry about not executing principles of 'scribe rule', you could just use 'square rule' methods (there's a perfectly square timber inside any irregular timber). It also looks pretty neat!
Also, you can be a 'crafty carpenter' (as Joe Thompson, Weald & Downland, Carpenter in Residence, like to say), and build in a penny gap between your mortice and tenon (either make the mortice a penny width wider than the tenon, or the other way around). Then you can test fit with relative ease, and drawbore the joint together when the day comes. Just a thought. Loving your work! Thumbs up!!
Yes have read about the square rum before. Have come round to the idea of being a little less fussy with the tenons. Like you say, there is no need to be crazy tight and it only slows down the process.
Thumbs up for Joe Thompson
Can’t wait to see it finished, looking good already. Love the videos keep them coming. Thanks
I'm about to make my own Oak Porch, never worked with timber B4 but i'd thought i'll give it a go. Thank you for all the hints and tips
How's progress Andy? Did you take the plunge? are you working on it at the moment in this beautiful Spring weather?
Can smell the shavings. Any tighter squeeze and you would have needed to use the mallet to get you in and out of there 😄. Beautiful work 👊🏼
Must be nice to work with some solid pieces of wood. Awesome. 👌🏴
Looking good 👍👍👍I do like the look of oak
Очень правильные у вас инструменты. Сам увлекаюсь тимбер-фреймом и с удовольствием посмотрел ваше видео!
looks awesome, mate. always inspiring to watch your videos!
great videos. where did you learn the techniques to build an oak timber frame ? book or videos ? thanks
Looking Great so far 👍
Very nice. Top job mate.
You can use the big offcuts to make mallet heads. It seems you need a bigger mallet. I would gladly take them off your hands if I was in the area.
Nice video. Is the short grain at the end of the mortise going to be an issue? I did a similar thing for a outdoor table frame and when the timber shrank, it popped. Fortunately it wasn’t a big issue for me as they were glued with epoxy and draw bored and the damage is covered by the table top. Anyway, thanks for the content!
Awesome work, all looks very professional to me, as a ham fisted diy'er. Could you have used your new bandsaw to cut the tenons? I realise that it would need major infeed support with that profile but would not need all the clean up with chisel and plane afterwards, or am I being over simplistic in my ignorance?
Yes with small timbers but like you say not possible with these really. You can of course buy a handheld beam bandsaw, but that would be a bit overkill for my setup.
Nice bit of joinery I made one a few years ago I used Osmo oil on it and two years later it still got a lovely colour better than going to dingy grey
Hi, Do you have a plan and list of items needed you can share? Love the video.
Thanks - great episode.
great videos as usual keep them coming
if you need to keep a circ saw square on the cut hold or clamp your speed square so your saw runs against it.
Hi. Could you let me know where you got your crosscut (Japanese?) hand saw from? Thanks
Make some mallets out of the left over oak
Given that you have a fixed distance from the teeth to the end of the land you could just measure that from the first marking line and place a laminating plate held with a couple of clamps and that should make it way easier to get a proper and square cut.
With the timber saw i mean
While a cross cut jig works great with my smaller saws it may not be so effective with this one. It’s worth a go but as it’s so powerful It doesn’t like to be forced/steered much. I’m happy enough getting it through safely and somewhere close. It’s more powerful than many tablesaws and at this size don’t have riving knives so needs a bit of respect. 😬
Looking good
Definitely speed square clamped at the other end of the saw away from the blade. Looking good so far.
Good effort.
Good effort. May have a go my self.
Only recently subscribed, love the video and and anything to do with timber framing. Can I ask where did you get your green oak from?
Nice nice!
What's the reason for using green oak?
What's the cost for green oak per m3?
No reason for oak over fir, like both. Green because dry oak would be very hard to work with. Not sure on cubic price as have always paid per unit. These 125x125x2400 were around £35 I think.
Did you go 3x1 or 2x1.5 for the porch dimension?
Something in the middle. 1.4 deep.
Signed doorstop please Tim 😉
I’ll put you on the waiting list! 😂
Nice - Did you get your timber from Yandles? (I'm not far away in N Dorset)
I did indeed. 👍
Can you use the wood shavings for the chickens or something else?
Yep 5 wheelbarrows full went in the pen from the planing. 👍
Hi. What plane was it you used?
Never mind - it was in the blurb and I missed it at first.
Love timber framing!
👍😊
👍
Plunge!!
That did appear to be the word of the episode! 😂
Clamp the speed square to the oak never try and hold one :)
Just gonna say the same
Do you follow Simon bowler on Instagram?, he does some great oak work!!
Yep. Simon is one of my IG gurus I go to for questions. Featured some of his work on here a while back. 👍
How to make an easy job look hard
1st
To witness another great video Tim. Keep them coming
Looking good.