Hey Cody, I did green oak timber framing for a living. It was using techniques that you would have seen in the pub. When you take apart a frame that has been in place for a few hundred years you find that the holes from the mortice into the tennon do not match. You off-set these slightly so that the pins bend through the hole and "pull" the tennon into the mortice. In reality as the mortice wood shrinks (as it is green) the holes then line up. Clever boys them old timber framers were.
Loving the timber framing! Bought some gear through wranglermart today, both of the Japanese pull saws, the sharpening guide, the Stanley marking knife , and the 4 in 1 Stanley rasp.I have had my great grand fathers, tool box since I was 20 years old. I'm 42 now. I opened it up , dusted everything off, and am restoring the hand planes 2 Stanley 4.5's (one made in Canada, one from the US) rasps, files, bit and braces with a few Irwin bits, I bought a spoke shave, a draw knife , a beautiful carving knife and chisel set . Thanks so much to the Wranglerstar family for the inspiration! I will send pics of my accomplishments. I was in an accident A little over 2 years ago, I broke both legs and an arm, I was very active before the accident and have almost lost everything, including my little homestead. Your videos helped my sanity along the way. I have had 2 major surgeries , and one more to go. But have tried to keep the faith through it all. I am re-learning how to use my body again as My limbs are full of metal and work differently now. I am looking forward to at least setting up a woodshop in the future and becoming a craftsman. Keep up the good work. Some of us look forward to your "Movies" more than you know.
I love these little nuggets of wisdom you give out in these videos. These things are never written down, but passed down from master to apprentice, father to son. Thankyou mate, all the way from the UK, thankyou.
Fantastic tip Cody, I have always failed on creating good mortice and tenon joints. Going out now to make a few of the template/guides. I guess the same could be applied to the mortice by making the appropriate tenon template.
When my dad and I used these on our build, we also made the part above the "mortice" on the template the same height as the shoulder so we could ensure that was the right size using the template too
Hi Cody. I really like your video series, which is excellent and most relaxing. I learnt my timber framing in the UK, where 'scribe rule' is more common than in the US (where line, level & plumb is the order of the day!). We use a 'tenon checker' in much the same way as you. A difference I was taught though (by the great Joe Thompson, Carpenter in Residence at the Weald & Downland Museum) was the principles of the 'crafty carpenter': ensuring you incorporate a 'penny gap' (either by enlarging the mortices slightly, or reducing the tenons slightly [but not both]) gives you a much easier time when it comes to assembly of the frame. Of course, as others have eluded to here, we also favour drawboring to make the joints tight when pegging. After drilling the hole through, we assemble the joint, squared it up, & prick out the tenon with the tip of the augur. After that we mark the width of a £1 coin to the shoulder, and a 1 penny coin to the throat to give the position of the tenon hole for the drawbore.
keep up the old school type videos cody. the work shop stuff, the wood stuff, the homestead stuff. Glad to see you going back to your roots. that's why a lot of us came here.
Good one and yes, the middle of the tenon isn't easy to cut precisely. I really like the fit up gauges WS, thanks for the tip. Timber framing is really an elegant way to join wood.
Brother, over the years it's sure been good to be able to come to this channel for input, instruction, and clear guidance on a variety if things. I can't thank you enough. All the best to you and yours, Wulfy
Great tip. I built some modified split top Roubo saw benches with timber framing techniques recently and this would have been a lifesaver. Of course having a timber framing slick would have been great too. In time maybe. Great series Cody. Keep up the good work.
I like when you describe what you are doing. It's like a how to video. But sometimes it's nice to just watch you work and see the piece come together. With the great music choices it is very relaxing to watch.
yes these timber frameing videos are really inspiring me to do some wood working I am blessed with lots of timber my father has cut over the years I just gotta get some tools
good tip, at my timber framing shop, we've riveted 2 old framing squares together into tenon gauges, same principle. and coincidentally the framing square is used again as a mortise gauge. simple and pretty darned accurate
I work big oak timber frames in UK. Generally we aim for a more loosely fitting tenon and mortice joint than that, not sloppy but not that tight either, oak is heavy stuff so handling time is massive if its all murder tight. From x ray images I've seen of joints from timber frames that are 500 years old the tenons were loose as well, friction on the shoulder of the joint caused from the draw on the peg was what held it together.
I just built a set of timber frame saw horses a few months ago. Basically the exact same design. So it was really cool seeing you make a set too. Love having them in my shop and i work on them everyday.
Hey just a note to research. Make sure you offset your drill holes for the dowel pins so it pulls the joint tight. It's very important to get those century old " tight" timber joints.
You do such wonderful timber framing, we have watched timber frame experts, and we can't believe that you have never taken a course, a natural talent. We'll be watching, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!
You can also put some graphite from your carpenter pencil on the edge of your square and then rub it over the tennon. The graphite will only deposit on the high spot, then pare off the graphite spot and repeat until no high spots and it’s flat and square
Knowledge without experience is just information! Thank You Wrangler family! You are helping me build my barns. God's blessing praised upon you and your family! Teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime! Blessings to the teachers of the world!
Outstanding video full of information and examples and admits to be being self taught .No ridiculous music ,no old timey leather apron with wide trouser suspenders where you look like an extra from the Waltons,just basic woodworking and confidently explained .Q: Is the small recess necessary that the tenon fits into on the mortice beam
Straight forward idea, a sort of standardized way to check tendon widths, and even allow a sight check of the entire surface of the tendon cheeks for straightness and angles. Thanks for the heads up on a great idea.
Very helpful tool! It might also make sense to make it out of sheet metal. The plywood will wear over time and your mortising gauge will get wider making it less precise.
At school I was taught that Mortice starts with M so that is the Mouth and Tennon starts with T so that is the tongue, an easy way to remember. Great series Cody, Keep them coming.
Great tip! As I am not actively doing this, yet, I appreciate these tips as I start looking into woodworking as well. (Wife says I need to finish with the current hobbies before I move on to learning a new one. :D )
great advice thanks Cody. I'm really looking forward to this timber framing series. The hole process is so interesting to me. Thanks for all the fantastic content looking forward to more great videos in the future
Before I watched this video, I wanted to tell you that I watched all your videos on Ram Pumps and in some of them you reminded us all to remember to click the thumbs up and you said you got some flack for doing so. I'm glad you remind us to click because I forget to sometimes and I don't think it is a bad idea for you to remind us because as you are signing off my mind is still reeling with such good info and entertainment so don't feel bad about putting in a reminder. Thanks.
Great tip Cody thanks but If I was to try and practice doing these would it be better to start with a big one like in this video or start with much smaller ones
Another great video,you've got some skills. I live in a French timber framed house built in 18th century, each beam has its own number(roman numerals) or symbol discretly carved into it.
wish I could right now follow along making my own but laying here recovering from my 4th back surgery last Monday 4-24-17, and enjoying having something good watch (your videos)
Tolerance fit gauges is very practical, but I wouldn't make them out of aluminum, since it changes size considerably with temperature change. Even steel and cast iron you have to check how much it will change with temperature, since wood doesn't change the same.
spectacular videos good sir ! you are a true blooded craftsman with a phenomenal eye and touch, love your videos, keep em coming please many thanks,.............. Canadian Wolf
Do you plan to offset holes in the tennon like Paul Sellers and others describe? Makes a super snug joint. The direction you offset matters. Keep up the good work.
I like the simple format of "Ten-Minute Timber-Framing" and the music fits it perfectly! Can you add the credits for all of the music segments? Thanks and keep it up!
some of the best tools are the simplest ones , where would we be without the hammer and chisel for instance. very basic but you can build a hose with little more
Mortises are cut first and the width of the mortise is defined by the width of the chisel you use to cut it with. Chisels can, and do vary. Once the mortise is cut, the tenon has to be cut to match. If you have an accurate gauge line to cut to on both ends of the tenon, a straight edge will show you if you have any humps in the middle. Correct those with your chisel. That plywood gauge you made will get a little larger each time you force it over a tenon and within just a few fit-ups, it wont work anymore. So either revert to power tools to achieve the accuracy you need or go back to woodworking 101 and fit the joints one at a time.
once again , another enjoyed video Do you ever use any sort of glue with these joints ? I'm guessing that you couldn't just run down to the hardware store several hundred years ago and but a jug of Titebond . Thanks , and keep em coming Bob from Calgary
What a great idea Cody. Hey by the way I like the music you put on your videos. I just heard of David Beloche and his debut album Labyrinth. It's scripture laid over beautiful music. Thought you might enjoy it. I keep going back to it. It's so peaceful.
Look up Roy Underhill or The Woodwright's Shop. Old PBS program. Excellent and accurate history and practices. Everything from baskets to barns and some blacksmithing.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a great timber framing book. goo.gl/dQmpTv
I already have 8 different "Learn to Timber Frame" books. I will add this on to the library.
Best I've seen
Great book!
Wranglerstar wow really really nice work mate
Hey Cody, I did green oak timber framing for a living. It was using techniques that you would have seen in the pub. When you take apart a frame that has been in place for a few hundred years you find that the holes from the mortice into the tennon do not match. You off-set these slightly so that the pins bend through the hole and "pull" the tennon into the mortice. In reality as the mortice wood shrinks (as it is green) the holes then line up. Clever boys them old timber framers were.
Loving the timber framing! Bought some gear through wranglermart today, both of the Japanese pull saws, the sharpening guide, the Stanley marking knife , and the 4 in 1 Stanley rasp.I have had my great grand fathers, tool box since I was 20 years old. I'm 42 now. I opened it up , dusted everything off, and am restoring the hand planes 2 Stanley 4.5's (one made in Canada, one from the US) rasps, files, bit and braces with a few Irwin bits, I bought a spoke shave, a draw knife , a beautiful carving knife and chisel set . Thanks so much to the Wranglerstar family for the inspiration! I will send pics of my accomplishments. I was in an accident A little over 2 years ago, I broke both legs and an arm, I was very active before the accident and have almost lost everything, including my little homestead. Your videos helped my sanity along the way. I have had 2 major surgeries , and one more to go. But have tried to keep the faith through it all. I am re-learning how to use my body again as My limbs are full of metal and work differently now. I am looking forward to at least setting up a woodshop in the future and becoming a craftsman. Keep up the good work. Some of us look forward to your "Movies" more than you know.
Fantastic advice for a novice. Thanks from the UK.
I love these little nuggets of wisdom you give out in these videos. These things are never written down, but passed down from master to apprentice, father to son. Thankyou mate, all the way from the UK, thankyou.
Fantastic tip Cody, I have always failed on creating good mortice and tenon joints. Going out now to make a few of the template/guides. I guess the same could be applied to the mortice by making the appropriate tenon template.
When my dad and I used these on our build, we also made the part above the "mortice" on the template the same height as the shoulder so we could ensure that was the right size using the template too
Hi Cody. I really like your video series, which is excellent and most relaxing.
I learnt my timber framing in the UK, where 'scribe rule' is more common than in the US (where line, level & plumb is the order of the day!). We use a 'tenon checker' in much the same way as you. A difference I was taught though (by the great Joe Thompson, Carpenter in Residence at the Weald & Downland Museum) was the principles of the 'crafty carpenter': ensuring you incorporate a 'penny gap' (either by enlarging the mortices slightly, or reducing the tenons slightly [but not both]) gives you a much easier time when it comes to assembly of the frame. Of course, as others have eluded to here, we also favour drawboring to make the joints tight when pegging. After drilling the hole through, we assemble the joint, squared it up, & prick out the tenon with the tip of the augur. After that we mark the width of a £1 coin to the shoulder, and a 1 penny coin to the throat to give the position of the tenon hole for the drawbore.
keep up the old school type videos cody. the work shop stuff, the wood stuff, the homestead stuff. Glad to see you going back to your roots. that's why a lot of us came here.
Good one and yes, the middle of the tenon isn't easy to cut precisely. I really like the fit up gauges WS, thanks for the tip. Timber framing is really an elegant way to join wood.
Brother, over the years it's sure been good to be able to come to this channel for input, instruction, and clear guidance on a variety if things.
I can't thank you enough.
All the best to you and yours,
Wulfy
Great tip. I built some modified split top Roubo saw benches with timber framing techniques recently and this would have been a lifesaver. Of course having a timber framing slick would have been great too. In time maybe. Great series Cody. Keep up the good work.
I like when you describe what you are doing. It's like a how to video. But sometimes it's nice to just watch you work and see the piece come together. With the great music choices it is very relaxing to watch.
yes these timber frameing videos are really inspiring me to do some wood working I am blessed with lots of timber my father has cut over the years I just gotta get some tools
All of your timber framing videos have been my absolute favorite content on your channel.
It's amazing how something so simple can save you time.Thanks for sharing your knowledge Cody I really enjoy your videos.
good tip, at my timber framing shop, we've riveted 2 old framing squares together into tenon gauges, same principle. and coincidentally the framing square is used again as a mortise gauge. simple and pretty darned accurate
Thank you. Interesting to read.
Can you post a picture of this tool? Very interesting.
I work big oak timber frames in UK. Generally we aim for a more loosely fitting tenon and mortice joint than that, not sloppy but not that tight either, oak is heavy stuff so handling time is massive if its all murder tight. From x ray images I've seen of joints from timber frames that are 500 years old the tenons were loose as well, friction on the shoulder of the joint caused from the draw on the peg was what held it together.
I just built a set of timber frame saw horses a few months ago. Basically the exact same design. So it was really cool seeing you make a set too. Love having them in my shop and i work on them everyday.
Hey just a note to research. Make sure you offset your drill holes for the dowel pins so it pulls the joint tight. It's very important to get those century old " tight" timber joints.
Doug Rimmer agree
Thanks for the tip I always appreciate the craftsman that that can add a Great commit GOD Bless brother
Wow. Great tip
How far do you wanna off-set the holes?
@@mattpeacock5208 Called draw bore. 3mm otta do it.
You do such wonderful timber framing, we have watched timber frame experts, and we can't believe that you have never taken a course, a natural talent. We'll be watching, thanks for sharing.Blessings! !!!!!
Nice tip for those who are learning or trying timber framing. It would work well on smaller furniture that was done with mortise and tenon also.
You can also put some graphite from your carpenter pencil on the edge of your square and then rub it over the tennon. The graphite will only deposit on the high spot, then pare off the graphite spot and repeat until no high spots and it’s flat and square
Knowledge without experience is just information! Thank You Wrangler family! You are helping me build my barns. God's blessing praised upon you and your family! Teach a man to fish, he eats for a lifetime! Blessings to the teachers of the world!
Outstanding video full of information and examples and admits to be being self taught .No ridiculous music ,no old timey leather apron with wide trouser suspenders where you look like an extra from the Waltons,just basic woodworking and confidently explained .Q: Is the small recess necessary that the tenon fits into on the mortice beam
Nice short description of Timber Framing.
Great idea on the test mortise jig.
Straight forward idea, a sort of standardized way to check tendon widths, and even allow a sight check of the entire surface of the tendon cheeks for straightness and angles. Thanks for the heads up on a great idea.
I do enjoy watching you work. It's relaxing and better than tv
Love simple solutions. Easy to make and it's only plywood, so if it wears down, just make another one. Great tip!
Very helpful tool! It might also make sense to make it out of sheet metal. The plywood will wear over time and your mortising gauge will get wider making it less precise.
At school I was taught that Mortice starts with M so that is the Mouth and Tennon starts with T so that is the tongue, an easy way to remember. Great series Cody, Keep them coming.
The French Kiss joint 😘
Great tip! As I am not actively doing this, yet, I appreciate these tips as I start looking into woodworking as well. (Wife says I need to finish with the current hobbies before I move on to learning a new one. :D )
great advice thanks Cody. I'm really looking forward to this timber framing series. The hole process is so interesting to me. Thanks for all the fantastic content looking forward to more great videos in the future
Before I watched this video, I wanted to tell you that I watched all your videos on Ram Pumps and in some of them you reminded us all to remember to click the thumbs up and you said you got some flack for doing so. I'm glad you remind us to click because I forget to sometimes and I don't think it is a bad idea for you to remind us because as you are signing off my mind is still reeling with such good info and entertainment so don't feel bad about putting in a reminder. Thanks.
Great tip Cody thanks but If I was to try and practice doing these would it be better to start with a big one like in this video or start with much smaller ones
I'd start by practicing on a typical 4x4 from the lumber yard,
The gauge is a great idea. Thanks for sharing.
Go/no-go gauge. Good idea. Square for the mortise and your good to go! Beautiful end music.
Another great video,you've got some skills.
I live in a French timber framed house built in 18th century,
each beam has its own number(roman numerals) or symbol discretly carved into it.
Love your woodworking videos!! That is originally what brought me to your youtube channel.
wish I could right now follow along making my own but laying here recovering from my 4th back surgery last Monday 4-24-17, and enjoying having something good watch (your videos)
Thanks for your videos You are a Great craftsman
Awesome tip Cody, thanks!
Great tip, Cody. I use one for dowels, but never even thought of it for tenons. THANKS>
Great tip. Do you use something like a gauge block to verify the mortises?
keifsanderson When chopping a mortise you use a chisel the with you want it to make it accurate
A great little series within the channel. Always good stuff.
Just purchased the two books you recommended.
Thanks for sharing Cody.
Awesome trick. No second guessing there.
Thansk for sharing your knowledge Cody. Blessings from Norway
Short and sweet! Great video
Fantastic series Mr. W
Excellent tip! Thanks for sharing it.
Cody on smaller tenon you can use the Stanley # 71 Router Plane, to trim a tenon.
Jack.
Hi Cody, very cool but simple trick.
Thanks for this series of videos. I would like to build a timber frame table in the future!!!
Vous faite de beaux vidéo et beaux projets aussi , continuez ... merci
Thanks for the vid Cody
That's a simple but great solution!
That template is amazing! I had that exact newbie struggle (tenons bumped up in the middle) on my workbench build.
Cody,
Really enjoying these videos. I like the style switch up every now and again. Thanks for the tips!
Brad
I'm liking the timber framing videos keep them coming Cody!
Great tip WS. Very much enjoying this series!
Cheers!
Tolerance fit gauges is very practical, but I wouldn't make them out of aluminum, since it changes size considerably with temperature change. Even steel and cast iron you have to check how much it will change with temperature, since wood doesn't change the same.
keep up the good work Cody
Good Tip cody. I knew it already but had forgotten. Thanks for the reminder. We so often forget the simple things in life :/
spectacular videos good sir ! you are a true blooded craftsman with a phenomenal eye and touch, love your videos, keep em coming please many thanks,.............. Canadian Wolf
Do you plan to offset holes in the tennon like Paul Sellers and others describe? Makes a super snug joint. The direction you offset matters. Keep up the good work.
I liked the timber framing videos.
Thanks for the tip, Cody!
Are you going to design a mortise go and no go jig ?
Awesome tip Cody!
Great series!
I like the simple format of "Ten-Minute Timber-Framing" and the music fits it perfectly! Can you add the credits for all of the music segments? Thanks and keep it up!
yet another GREAT video KEEP THEM COMING
good trick. thanks Cody
it's a go-no-go gauge. great idea
I think it's traditional to check the flatness of the tenon cheek with the flat of the chisel/slick. As long as it's rocking you need to keep paring.
Great video, thanks for the amazing tip on timber framing! Love all your videos, keep up the great work!
Thank you Cody.
Another two thumbs up! Thanks for the vids!
Thank you
good tip. If you don't use one often you could clamp four pieces of wood together I suppose.
Those would be great to add to the beginner's carpenter tool box.
You buy templates like those ready made out of steel. I'm sorry I don't know wear but somebody makes them.
I really enjoy you l shows. keep it up.
Thank you! Great video per usual!
Excellent idea!
I LOVE THIS SERIES!
Great tip Cody
Great tip! Thanks!
Great tips Cody!
some of the best tools are the simplest ones , where would we be without the hammer and chisel for instance. very basic but you can build a hose with little more
Mortises are cut first and the width of the mortise is defined by the width of the chisel you use to cut it with. Chisels can, and do vary. Once the mortise is cut, the tenon has to be cut to match. If you have an accurate gauge line to cut to on both ends of the tenon, a straight edge will show you if you have any humps in the middle. Correct those with your chisel. That plywood gauge you made will get a little larger each time you force it over a tenon and within just a few fit-ups, it wont work anymore. So either revert to power tools to achieve the accuracy you need or go back to woodworking 101 and fit the joints one at a time.
once again , another enjoyed video
Do you ever use any sort of glue with these joints ? I'm guessing that you couldn't just run down to the hardware store several hundred years ago and but a jug of Titebond .
Thanks , and keep em coming
Bob from Calgary
What a great idea Cody. Hey by the way I like the music you put on your videos. I just heard of David Beloche and his debut album Labyrinth. It's scripture laid over beautiful music. Thought you might enjoy it. I keep going back to it. It's so peaceful.
Look up Roy Underhill or The Woodwright's Shop. Old PBS program. Excellent and accurate history and practices. Everything from baskets to barns and some blacksmithing.
Nice trick..thanks for the PRO tip.
that's a hella good tip thank you deeply for that Cody
nice tip. thanks for sharing
Tenon jig, great advise.
Timber framing is the easiest, strongest and most beautiful construction ever 😍
Best video ive seen yet!!
That looks awesome 👍 job