I vote for complete rolling chassis and then under the truck. I think it will be easier to follow along if all the work is done with similar intervals. As alwoys great videos and keep up the good work!
I couldn't agree more. No one wants to put the frame under the body, THEN build the suspension. Why do that when you can get it rolling around the shop, and just get the old one out, then swap the motor and transmission in, and set the body back in place.
You are a remarkably clever and productive guy. Very much like watching you work. Definitely should put some reinforcement plates on those cross member mounts- butt welding them may be alright for a stock truck, but I don't think it will hold up to your use
A number of years ago I worked at the truck plant where they build those frames. If you saw how they were built you would understand why there's variations in every single one of them. Meg will work just fine, S70 wire is more than strong enough for that frame. It's a 70,000 per square inch frame and it's high alloy, low hydrogen. In that application there is no real advantage to using a TIG welder except that well it takes longer. Never ceases to amaze me on NASCAR and NHRA require a roll cage to be made out of a type of metal and then require it to be TIG welded when that particular type of metal is actually designed to be welded with oxy acetylene. It's a Navy specification. And if you weld it with oxy acetylene, you can't tell it from a TIG weld. If I were you I'd fish plate the front and back of both of those pieces that you welded on. You have an austenetic Zone all the way around three sides of that weld. Fish plate will spread those stressors a little bit better and a couple of plug welds in the fish plate would help.
Last winter I did my frame work on my 94 s10 ss. I boxed in the whole rear half and removed parts from a donor 2wd blazer for the rear fuel tank mount cross members. I appreciate what you're doing it's a lot of work. Eventually probably gonna get a 4 link. But 1st is cage work this winter. Also cleanup wiring.
Garage builds are the best builds! Started my own project truck rcsb 4wd. Staying 4wd may go awd like you did in the future, but I’m also going turbo instead of supercharger
I vote for the rolling chassis that way we can see all the excellent fab work you are doing. I'm doing a rest mod on my 1988 c1500 and it sucked when I couldn't move it to get something else done. Im also converting it from a 4.3 v6 and 5 speed manual to a 5.3 L83 Gen V and 6l80e. So i can just relax whle driving. Now it's a roller and moves in and out of the garage as needed. Can't wait to see how this truck evolves.
Jason from Mohawk is a cool guy. I like his work. Cool project brother. I like it. There's 2 of us now that think making her a 4x is friggin awsome brother. I can't wait to see her done.
Was just watching a recent boosted boiz video about Wyatt's truck, and he installed a billet slider in his GM front diff, as I guess they're a known failure point. Might be worth looking into with the power you're making!
Your attention to detail is amazing. I would have trashed that frame as soon as i saw parts of it missing and it being bent in every way possible. Guess you are pot committed to it at this point. Are full size clean 4x4 frames that hard to come by up there?
Don't worry about not recording yourself in "problem solver mode", that appears to be standard operation for youtube tutorials. Every time I've gotten to the point of needing one, every guide I watch totally skips over the part I'm stuck on, as if it was so easy it didn't even need to be shown😂
Love the information in your videos and great content. I have a few question I have a 02 avalanche z71 frame was rotted bad holes throughout I purchased a frame from a z66 2wd thinking provisions would be there for the 4wd. Could you give some pointers to convert the frame to 4wd
I meant to ask what pcm or piggyback or stand-alone are you running? Gotta buddy with an 04 with a bunch of work keeps burning up 4L60’s. The minor mod of headers (a lot more mods then headers but this is one of the problems)is throwing off the trans lock up. O2,maf,brake light switch,etc all effects lock up. Thanks for any insight
You made that differential placement look easy. A couple years back I removed and replaced one on my 2000 Escalade. Muscling it into place from the bottom was probably the most physically taxing thing I’ve done working on cars. Had my son place the upper bolt once I wrestled it in there.
Great work. I love the content. Unsolicited advice: turn the wheel grinder volume down a bit, not off, but down. Find better than stock photo music tracks lol. I'm here for the long haul on this project so it don't matter but those things could use a little polish!
Great work and awesome fab skills!!! Once you're done all the necessary mods, are you gonna get it sand blasted and powdercoated? I don't even own a pick up truck, but I'm addicted to these videos. Then again, fabrication and mechanical skills are transferable.😁🤙
Roller chassis with leafs. THEN do the 4 link. This will allow you to showcase how to do a leaf spring to 4 link for the gmt800 style of truck PLUS allow forward progress of the build
14:00 This is why I always keep 2 spools of wire around. One in the machine and one on standby. That way I just buy another spare at my earliest convenience and the projects keep trucking. Sucks being out of wire at 11:00 pm when all the stores are closed.
Man nice work on fixing all if that! Question please, since you are still working on the frame and you plan on putting that high horsepower motor in it are you going to box in the frame any to add some strength to it? Just curious and the ugly truck is going to be one fast truck!! :)
Have you considered the mounted height of the front diff since the front end ride height will be so low? I'm worried you're going to have a lot of axle bind. But maybe you've already conquered that with the stepside?
the height of this truck will actually be about an inch higher than the stepside with a nearly flat CV angle, so no worries at all about binding. the stepside works great even being a touch lower also
If that chassis is going to keep you from doing some work on that Mustang, I vote get the front suspension on and under the truck. Then you can toggle between the two projects for your videos. It would be nice to see the truck and Mustang done and at the track! Also, a little variety of videos can't be bad. The work you do reminds me of working with my father. He was an amazing fabricator and loved a challenge. People would tell him naw don't do that it won't work and he made it work and work good!
Very cool LT , I’d make it a rolling chassis first just to make it easier to move it around. Are you going to make this truck 4x4 with the same jeep / H1 diff that was in that Ls swapped turbo Dodge you were in when you were in Maine?
LT I’ve always wanted to do a 2 -4 wheel drive conversion, so very cool. I have a 2012 extended cab Sierra I want to play with, but it is currently my daily driver. Being 60 doesn’t help, so I may never accomplish anything like this, but I really enjoy your fabs from way back on the TV show. Red Tide I think it was, anyway great job.
Turn it into a rolling chassis then put it under the truck. Gives you more time to enjoy an already running truck while working on the chassis. Love your attention to detail. Remember watching you on power nation tv and I always though you did a great job as the host
Maybe consider setting up a cheap 4-6 camera home security system w/ DVR in the garage. Place the cameras in the corners with 1 or 2 facing down near center. For less than $400 at Costco you will have a reliable backup source for video footage. Probably great for consistent long-term time-lapse imagery, too.
Since you have the same hairstyle as I do, a trick I found is to grab an extra sweat band and put it on the upper bands in your welding hood, it keeps the hood from pulling your hair or pinching your skin.
And whenever I think my 95 Tacoma is a pain to resurrect, I watch LT completely redo a pickup he already completely redid. Lol. This big block build is awesome LT.
I have a question on UGT 2.0, is the new chassis also from a 1500 series? if yes, would a 2500 or 3500 same WB have been a stiffer chassisfor drag racing?
the new frame is from a 1500, and yes, a 2500HD frame would be stronger and stiffer, but also heavier and would require 8 lug axles for the front IFS. there are pros and cons of each
I think I've seen you wear a respirator while painting before, I pretty much wear one whenever I have to use a grinding/abrasive disc. Even a chin diaper (disposable mask) cuts down on a lot of dust and other junk that is getting into your lungs. I would also get it to be a roller and then under the truck, you can fab up some temp casters to put on the rear end just to roll it around.
What year of truck? I have a 1994 suburban 4x 3/4 ton donor for my 1993 2x4 crewcab dually. I've been told it should convert right over but I have my doubts. Anyone have any thoughts?
Just heads up keep a eye on your duramax fan belt tensioner pulley mine went out 500 miles from home and their not available at parts stores yet so waiting on a dealership to open tomorrow hopefully they have one and a new belt
The issues I have are really simple. You make it look easy! I know you have years of experience and have built some badass trucks and I shouldn't judge complexity on how a pro does things. I am learning though!
I think rolling chassis, but take your time and do it right... u have room to work, u should build the whole thing, then fit the body to it.... (imo). I am curious about the ugly truck though, nothing has to move over, I mean there is nothing that couldn't be duplicated, why r u moving anything? Why not sell it and just build frame up? There r a ton of extended cabs out there, u could go fiber glass everywhere but the cab... ? Just curious about your direction
that was goo gone and acetone. its not really paint, but a rubber/waxy coating GM used and it clogs up most sandpaper and abrasive in a hurry, but the goo-gone seemed to clean it up pretty well, and the acetone cleaned up any remaining traces
I worked on dozens of old car and truck frames from the 1970s and 80s and I've always found that even non-wrecked Chevelles, c /k 10s & 20s all have some degree of bend, twist, shimmy, or whatever.. the frames twist from normal driving, as soon as the body bushings start to get soft. That is SOFT steel to begin with, and it's thin. That's why a 1lb Ball Peen hammer can move the mounting ears so easy. What do you think happens when the weight of the truck body slams into the frame, causing a shock mount to slam into a shock hard at 65mph through a Pot Hole on the highway? Lol You just make a frame straighter than factory.. lol
An accurate diagnosis. I'm guilty of that very type of shade-tree modification and follow-up abuse, resulting in a some-what Ginked frame, such as you have brought home. Any plans to sandblast/powder coat?
Get some pneumatic casters and temporarily weld them to the frame to make it easier to move around. If they are big enough, you could even use them to load and unload the frame from your trailer.
watching you work on your silverado makes me sad what I did to mine, I crashed it last week and now a bracket on the frame is bent. I was planning on camming and turbocharging it but now those plans are on hold
Hey man! Why didn't you use a frame from 1500 Suburban GMT900? It already has beefed up front suspension, and the provision for 5 links in the rear. You would only need to extend a short straight section of the frame in the middle, and at the end, you would've had the first ever GMT800 truck with factory (sic!) front spring suspension and factory (sic!) rear spring suspension. This is what I kind of have in mind for my next project :-)
I have a 2wd truck and want to do a 4wd conversion. With the price of trucks these days i think buying a frame and restoring it, then doing the cab and engine swap would allow me to keep driving while i restore the frame.
make it a rolling chassis, you'll thank me later. having it as a rolling chassis makes it so much easier to get the cab on it. you can just lift the cab up set it on stands or blocks then roll the old chassis out and roll the new one in and set it right down on it. I changed cabs on my ford ranger by myself like that. and if you want to use the rear end you have for the 4 link setup then just pick up a junk rear end and keep the leaf springs for the frame swap then do the 4 link after the cab is all situated.
Just put in an aw front diff and transfer case on my 1999 5.3 Sierra but I have a noise like I have different ratios it drives like 80 90 mph but it sounds like a little bearing vibration
With the weight of the truck, and the power it's gonna have, I'd suggest you put some kind of gussets or braces on those mounts you welded in. Or plate them if possible. Because 1,500hp launching that big beast of a truck is gonna be all sorts of violent. If those welds snap, well, it's not gonna be good.
I understand the returning the frame to stock, but you wanna make a race truck capable of 8's might as well start making the truck light as possible. Wouldn't tubular mounts be lighter and stronger than stock?
Cool channel just subscribed. My vote, selfishely I want you to make it a complete roller before dropping the rest of the truck on it just because then it's easier to see the cool fabrication.
Swap the cab in the driveway without using a 2 post lift. I have a cab swab in my future on my 84 F-250 IDI. I could use a good video for tips on getting the job done.
Go get some industrial wheel casters and make some stands with them to mount to existing bolt holes in the frame so you can roll the chassis around easily.
I vote for complete rolling chassis and then under the truck. I think it will be easier to follow along if all the work is done with similar intervals. As alwoys great videos and keep up the good work!
+1 on that.
Good idea
I couldn't agree more. No one wants to put the frame under the body, THEN build the suspension. Why do that when you can get it rolling around the shop, and just get the old one out, then swap the motor and transmission in, and set the body back in place.
Great work LT! You make all this work look way too easy. Your drive and sense of humor is remarkable!
You are a remarkably clever and productive guy. Very much like watching you work.
Definitely should put some reinforcement plates on those cross member mounts- butt welding them may be alright for a stock truck, but I don't think it will hold up to your use
Looking great LT! Glad to help and looking forward to seeing continued progress on this project!!
You're an awesome fabricator LT. Keep up the great work!
Great project progress, nice catch on the missing pieces and sourcing those needed to keep the project going.
Seeing how good of a mechanic and fabricator you are impresses me, I wish I had a garage and know how like you!
I admire your determination to keep with that frame. I’d have scrapped it for a better one long before doing all that extra work!
A number of years ago I worked at the truck plant where they build those frames. If you saw how they were built you would understand why there's variations in every single one of them.
Meg will work just fine, S70 wire is more than strong enough for that frame. It's a 70,000 per square inch frame and it's high alloy, low hydrogen. In that application there is no real advantage to using a TIG welder except that well it takes longer.
Never ceases to amaze me on NASCAR and NHRA require a roll cage to be made out of a type of metal and then require it to be TIG welded when that particular type of metal is actually designed to be welded with oxy acetylene. It's a Navy specification. And if you weld it with oxy acetylene, you can't tell it from a TIG weld.
If I were you I'd fish plate the front and back of both of those pieces that you welded on. You have an austenetic Zone all the way around three sides of that weld. Fish plate will spread those stressors a little bit better and a couple of plug welds in the fish plate would help.
LT you got guts!! Thats what makes you the best when you take a moment to make sure it is as good as you possibly can make it. 🚙
I watched a handful of your videos before I realized you were on power block TV and one of my favorite fabricators
Last winter I did my frame work on my 94 s10 ss. I boxed in the whole rear half and removed parts from a donor 2wd blazer for the rear fuel tank mount cross members. I appreciate what you're doing it's a lot of work. Eventually probably gonna get a 4 link. But 1st is cage work this winter. Also cleanup wiring.
It's just awesome seeing you in your own format. Your own element. Rock on dude!!
Garage builds are the best builds! Started my own project truck rcsb 4wd. Staying 4wd may go awd like you did in the future, but I’m also going turbo instead of supercharger
I vote for the rolling chassis that way we can see all the excellent fab work you are doing. I'm doing a rest mod on my 1988 c1500 and it sucked when I couldn't move it to get something else done. Im also converting it from a 4.3 v6 and 5 speed manual to a 5.3 L83 Gen V and 6l80e. So i can just relax whle driving. Now it's a roller and moves in and out of the garage as needed. Can't wait to see how this truck evolves.
Jason from Mohawk is a cool guy. I like his work. Cool project brother. I like it. There's 2 of us now that think making her a 4x is friggin awsome brother. I can't wait to see her done.
Duct tape template, what a great tip!! You should do a 2 minute spot on little tips like this.
Greetings from the farm in S Carolina!
Glad it was helpful!
At least you know your frame is a 100% I'm glad you work clean. I feel I'm the only one that likes to work that way. I always enjoy your content.
LT .... I'm jealous of your knowledge and skill . I enjoy watching you put them both to use and how you explain things . 👍
Was just watching a recent boosted boiz video about Wyatt's truck, and he installed a billet slider in his GM front diff, as I guess they're a known failure point. Might be worth looking into with the power you're making!
LT, how is that stock, rather puny front differential gonna hold up under a 1500 hp, twin turbo, 535 BBC?? And what about the transfer case?
thats what i been thinking as well.
Your attention to detail is amazing. I would have trashed that frame as soon as i saw parts of it missing and it being bent in every way possible. Guess you are pot committed to it at this point. Are full size clean 4x4 frames that hard to come by up there?
They are pretty much everywhere it just depends on how hard it was hit..
he loves fixing stuff
I have been looking for your channel forever. Awesome not sure if I will need to do most of the stuff here but it sure will be fun to watch.
Don't worry about not recording yourself in "problem solver mode", that appears to be standard operation for youtube tutorials. Every time I've gotten to the point of needing one, every guide I watch totally skips over the part I'm stuck on, as if it was so easy it didn't even need to be shown😂
Yep, step 1, open hood. Step 2, get tools. Step 3, show parts laying on the floor. Step 4, project completed, close hood.
Love the information in your videos and great content. I have a few question I have a 02 avalanche z71 frame was rotted bad holes throughout I purchased a frame from a z66 2wd thinking provisions would be there for the 4wd. Could you give some pointers to convert the frame to 4wd
I meant to ask what pcm or piggyback or stand-alone are you running? Gotta buddy with an 04 with a bunch of work keeps burning up 4L60’s. The minor mod of headers (a lot more mods then headers but this is one of the problems)is throwing off the trans lock up. O2,maf,brake light switch,etc all effects lock up. Thanks for any insight
You made that differential placement look easy. A couple years back I removed and replaced one on my 2000 Escalade. Muscling it into place from the bottom was probably the most physically taxing thing I’ve done working on cars. Had my son place the upper bolt once I wrestled it in there.
I've installed those below as well, and with the motor and steering in place it is sure a pain in the butt!
Great work. I love the content.
Unsolicited advice: turn the wheel grinder volume down a bit, not off, but down. Find better than stock photo music tracks lol.
I'm here for the long haul on this project so it don't matter but those things could use a little polish!
These videos are awesome way better than when you was tv, I look forward to seeing your videos all the time! 💪🏻
Glad you like them!
Thank you LT for the great videos!! Looking forward to the next one!
thanks!
Great work and awesome fab skills!!! Once you're done all the necessary mods, are you gonna get it sand blasted and powdercoated? I don't even own a pick up truck, but I'm addicted to these videos. Then again, fabrication and mechanical skills are transferable.😁🤙
Roller chassis with leafs. THEN do the 4 link. This will allow you to showcase how to do a leaf spring to 4 link for the gmt800 style of truck PLUS allow forward progress of the build
14:00 This is why I always keep 2 spools of wire around. One in the machine and one on standby. That way I just buy another spare at my earliest convenience and the projects keep trucking. Sucks being out of wire at 11:00 pm when all the stores are closed.
Man nice work on fixing all if that! Question please, since you are still working on the frame and you plan on putting that high horsepower motor in it are you going to box in the frame any to add some strength to it? Just curious and the ugly truck is going to be one fast truck!! :)
I will likely add some reinforcement to the frame in the middle section where its still an open "C" channel
@@LawrenceTolman I had a hunch that you just may do this and it will be some quality work no doubt!!
Have you considered the mounted height of the front diff since the front end ride height will be so low? I'm worried you're going to have a lot of axle bind. But maybe you've already conquered that with the stepside?
the height of this truck will actually be about an inch higher than the stepside with a nearly flat CV angle, so no worries at all about binding. the stepside works great even being a touch lower also
If that chassis is going to keep you from doing some work on that Mustang, I vote get the front suspension on and under the truck. Then you can toggle between the two projects for your videos. It would be nice to see the truck and Mustang done and at the track! Also, a little variety of videos can't be bad. The work you do reminds me of working with my father. He was an amazing fabricator and loved a challenge. People would tell him naw don't do that it won't work and he made it work and work good!
Very cool LT , I’d make it a rolling chassis first just to make it easier to move it around. Are you going to make this truck 4x4 with the same jeep / H1 diff that was in that Ls swapped turbo Dodge you were in when you were in Maine?
Not sure yet to be honest, leaning toward an NP261 at the moment
Appreciate the work you put into these old Chevys.
LT I’ve always wanted to do a 2 -4 wheel drive conversion, so very cool. I have a 2012 extended cab Sierra I want to play with, but it is currently my daily driver. Being 60 doesn’t help, so I may never accomplish anything like this, but I really enjoy your fabs from way back on the TV show. Red Tide I think it was, anyway great job.
Dude you are a hard worker and a badass. I probably would have went the easy way and sourced a different frame. You have a ton of skills!
Turn it into a rolling chassis then put it under the truck. Gives you more time to enjoy an already running truck while working on the chassis. Love your attention to detail. Remember watching you on power nation tv and I always though you did a great job as the host
Maybe consider setting up a cheap 4-6 camera home security system w/ DVR in the garage. Place the cameras in the corners with 1 or 2 facing down near center. For less than $400 at Costco you will have a reliable backup source for video footage. Probably great for consistent long-term time-lapse imagery, too.
You using Atomic coils and the aluminum Maxtrac spindles from Rowan?
I can’t wait to see you finish this project
LT bro, love this truck and im happy that you almost have 100k subscribers.
I see we are getting close to the 100,000Subscriber Mark can’t wait for you to hit it keep up the good work
Thanks! I’m hoping we hit it this year
Since you have the same hairstyle as I do, a trick I found is to grab an extra sweat band and put it on the upper bands in your welding hood, it keeps the hood from pulling your hair or pinching your skin.
Nobody would have thought less of you for tossing that thing back on the scrap heap. But putting it back in shape was much more interesting to watch!
And whenever I think my 95 Tacoma is a pain to resurrect, I watch LT completely redo a pickup he already completely redid. Lol. This big block build is awesome LT.
Lol I feel you on the MIG, I was finishing up my turbo's downpipe on 4th of July - ran out of wire a few minutes after any place around closed.
I am extremely excited for this build.
Hey LT, rolling chassis gets my vote. It will be easier to film all your handy work!
The Beauty of Going Through Something... Is that you Know That it's Right/100%. Thanks for Sharing
I have a question on UGT 2.0, is the new chassis also from a 1500 series? if yes, would a 2500 or 3500 same WB have been a stiffer chassisfor drag racing?
the new frame is from a 1500, and yes, a 2500HD frame would be stronger and stiffer, but also heavier and would require 8 lug axles for the front IFS. there are pros and cons of each
Lawrence, this frame project is really showing off your fab skills 👍
thanks!
When the need set up is all done would u run something like a slick up front as well? If not what kind of tire do u plan on for max traction?
I'll likely have a drag radial on all four corners rather than a bias ply slick, but yes, drag tires all around
That's cool... should hook up pretty hard
I think I've seen you wear a respirator while painting before, I pretty much wear one whenever I have to use a grinding/abrasive disc. Even a chin diaper (disposable mask) cuts down on a lot of dust and other junk that is getting into your lungs.
I would also get it to be a roller and then under the truck, you can fab up some temp casters to put on the rear end just to roll it around.
What year of truck? I have a 1994 suburban 4x 3/4 ton donor for my 1993 2x4 crewcab dually. I've been told it should convert right over but I have my doubts. Anyone have any thoughts?
Just heads up keep a eye on your duramax fan belt tensioner pulley mine went out 500 miles from home and their not available at parts stores yet so waiting on a dealership to open tomorrow hopefully they have one and a new belt
The issues I have are really simple. You make it look easy! I know you have years of experience and have built some badass trucks and I shouldn't judge complexity on how a pro does things. I am learning though!
I'm sure the video makes it look easier that it was... lots of hours in this project already!
Thanks for the great content from across the lake!
Yeah man!! Build it right, bottom to top, back to front!!
What mig and tig welder do you use?
I think rolling chassis, but take your time and do it right... u have room to work, u should build the whole thing, then fit the body to it.... (imo). I am curious about the ugly truck though, nothing has to move over, I mean there is nothing that couldn't be duplicated, why r u moving anything? Why not sell it and just build frame up? There r a ton of extended cabs out there, u could go fiber glass everywhere but the cab... ? Just curious about your direction
What are you using to clean the paint off the metal before welding?
that was goo gone and acetone. its not really paint, but a rubber/waxy coating GM used and it clogs up most sandpaper and abrasive in a hurry, but the goo-gone seemed to clean it up pretty well, and the acetone cleaned up any remaining traces
@@LawrenceTolman Thanks for the reply, great work on your channel!
killing it LT !!! wondering what brand welders you are using?
Thanks! These are from Forney
I worked on dozens of old car and truck frames from the 1970s and 80s and I've always found that even non-wrecked Chevelles, c /k 10s & 20s all have some degree of bend, twist, shimmy, or whatever.. the frames twist from normal driving, as soon as the body bushings start to get soft. That is SOFT steel to begin with, and it's thin. That's why a 1lb Ball Peen hammer can move the mounting ears so easy. What do you think happens when the weight of the truck body slams into the frame, causing a shock mount to slam into a shock hard at 65mph through a Pot Hole on the highway? Lol
You just make a frame straighter than factory.. lol
An accurate diagnosis. I'm guilty of that very type of shade-tree modification and follow-up abuse, resulting in a some-what Ginked frame, such as you have brought home. Any plans to sandblast/powder coat?
yup, I do plan on getting it sandblasted and probably painted before it goes under the truck
Are you going to set up the suspension so the truck is still usable for truck things?
it will be street driveable, but it wont be able to tow a trailer or anything like that. we're going race mode on this one
man was in SOO much pain during the intro. just subbed
Get some pneumatic casters and temporarily weld them to the frame to make it easier to move around. If they are big enough, you could even use them to load and unload the frame from your trailer.
watching you work on your silverado makes me sad what I did to mine, I crashed it last week and now a bracket on the frame is bent. I was planning on camming and turbocharging it but now those plans are on hold
Bummer. Hope u can fix it
Hey man!
Why didn't you use a frame from 1500 Suburban GMT900? It already has beefed up front suspension, and the provision for 5 links in the rear. You would only need to extend a short straight section of the frame in the middle, and at the end, you would've had the first ever GMT800 truck with factory (sic!) front spring suspension and factory (sic!) rear spring suspension. This is what I kind of have in mind for my next project :-)
Great video LT.
I have a 2wd truck and want to do a 4wd conversion. With the price of trucks these days i think buying a frame and restoring it, then doing the cab and engine swap would allow me to keep driving while i restore the frame.
make it a rolling chassis, you'll thank me later. having it as a rolling chassis makes it so much easier to get the cab on it. you can just lift the cab up set it on stands or blocks then roll the old chassis out and roll the new one in and set it right down on it. I changed cabs on my ford ranger by myself like that. and if you want to use the rear end you have for the 4 link setup then just pick up a junk rear end and keep the leaf springs for the frame swap then do the 4 link after the cab is all situated.
Good news is: "a lot of work" equals content. Here, have a like.
Funny you had crossed paths with Matt's off road recovery
Yup, was searching for a frame that day. Wound up buying this one from a different yard than Gumby’s though
LT, a solid front axle got my vote
Rolling chassis would show all of the bottom side work, which is definitely where the bulk of this one will spend it's time.
I vote complete rolling chassis as well. FAR, FAR easier to make it as close to perfect as possible. Im certain you'll agree.
buys frame for a swap, has to rebuild half of it lol love watching
Lt good job in fixing back the frame to stock
Just put in an aw front diff and transfer case on my 1999 5.3 Sierra but I have a noise like I have different ratios it drives like 80 90 mph but it sounds like a little bearing vibration
With the weight of the truck, and the power it's gonna have, I'd suggest you put some kind of gussets or braces on those mounts you welded in. Or plate them if possible. Because 1,500hp launching that big beast of a truck is gonna be all sorts of violent. If those welds snap, well, it's not gonna be good.
My 03 Sierra shorty stepside is 4x4 slammed and awesome. DJM makes some nice parts
Song playing at 12:40?
Made sense to me when you swapped the truck.
I understand the returning the frame to stock, but you wanna make a race truck capable of 8's might as well start making the truck light as possible. Wouldn't tubular mounts be lighter and stronger than stock?
I wish I had a 1/4 of your knowledge LT
Nice job LT
@15:50 that was a great transition imo.
4wd conversion is awesome and stick with it! It's going to be a great truck when its finished up
Can't wait!
Cool channel just subscribed. My vote, selfishely I want you to make it a complete roller before dropping the rest of the truck on it just because then it's easier to see the cool fabrication.
Swap the cab in the driveway without using a 2 post lift. I have a cab swab in my future on my 84 F-250 IDI. I could use a good video for tips on getting the job done.
probably a whislindiesel frame
Nah, it would be broken in half. He's a douche and breaks everything for clicks and views.
Lol
Nah, it doesn’t look that stupid!
Go get some industrial wheel casters and make some stands with them to mount to existing bolt holes in the frame so you can roll the chassis around easily.
I need to do that for sure
4wd is ALWAYS BETTER, not everyone knows how to make enough reliable power for it like this master
Hey! Humphries supplies our shop with all our gas. Great guys down there!
agreed! good group of guys
Nice work thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching