@@LawrenceTolman I have never given advice on anyone’s video before but, I couldn’t help notice you use as much filler rod as possible, of course while burning your fingers. Being a broke individual as well, I use needle nose vise grips to get the last little bit I can out of my filler rod. Hope this helps.
@@LawrenceTolman idk about the cameraman but the music (especially while you're talking) is too much... the only time (in my humble opinion as someone who watches youtube for 10-15 hours almost everyday) there should be background music is for very long intervals between speaking but mostly just time lapses honestly
Following this build of your’s… I’m curious to see how the sliding shackles and mono leaf setup does w/ getting 4 tires to hook. I’d also suggest using two nuts on each control arm bushing as a jam nut setup. This will allow you to eliminate any potential binding, w/o the bolts coming loose. Or use the Triangle shaped one-time use lock nuts(like pinion nuts)… I’m surprised to see those guys use that shape diff cover on the axle. Probably won’t matter on a drag truck, but those covers that dont shape around the ring gear are notorious for gear whine due to poor lubrication. Keep the videos coming. I like seeing the progress!
Nice work on fabricating the suspension components and putting the rear axle in! It is coming along great and whoever is doing the camera work they are doing a great job!! Thanks LT and can't wait to see more!
You should try using a “tig pen” to feed your filler rod. Mind you, its one of those tools you are either going to love or hate. I had ine for a long time, and used it once or twice, didn’t like it, so left it in the box. Later on decided to try it again and get used to it and I really like it now. Its saves $ by been able to use more of your filler rod, not burning your filler hand glove as much, and of course not burning your finger. They are cheap. I think i paid $10 for mine.
the center of your perchs need to slide back 1½ inches from the center other then that when you install the bed is not goin to look center great work bro keep goin
While i think the 8.6 may have lived, it was a good move to get the 9.5. The weight is where the tq comes into play. If it was a short bed standard cab i think it would have been okay.
I’m doing a lifted 05’ ccsb turbo build, and i’ve hit a wall on what to do with my fuel system. I was thinking about a sump kit in my factory plastic tank (like you did on the 11’ duramax on truck tech) do you think a sump like that would work with gas/E85? And a couple frame mounted AEM 400 inline pumps? I haven’t seen and of the gas guys doing those sumps. I just really don’t want any starvation under acceleration and it seems like all the setups in the factory bucket are troublesome. Do you think the sump would leak using gas/E85 more than they do when used with diesel?
The mess thing ,maybe build a corner closet for all your grinding and pianting. Wear a respirator . Putan exhaust fan in ? Sounds like a lot ,you could mount a gopro in there and have a vacuum cleaner for the floor
Near the end (19:00+) you talked about moving the frame cross bar forward...with the type of springs and allowance on the rear spring purchase for movement, would the pumpkin potentially crash into that cross bar or is there plenty of clearance for that?
This has been fun to watch. Curious if u will be replacing any parts with fiber glass ones ? Bed, fenders, stuff like that? I personally think it would be cool if there was no bed floor so we could see everything work during a launch
Drilling out the spring perches without safety glasses made me squirm. I've had a metal shaving go into my eye and it was some of the worst pain I've ever had. Stay safe LT, we love you buddy.
How would flipping the back cross tube work for space for the fuel cell? Instead of it bending in towards the front it would bend away to the back. You get to keep more of the stock frame and save on materials.
Nice to see the rear end under the back, even if it's just mock up status. I'm super curious about this surprise your talking about. Maybe some kind of nice powder coat perhaps?!?!
LT, I am about to get into tig welding and I was wondering which hand should I hold the torch and the filler? I am left handed so I have more control with my left. Would that be better for the filler or the torch?
I put the torch in my dominant (right) hand and filler in left, so my thought would be for you to use left hand torch and right filler, but it also comes down to preference because I know several right handed people who out the torch in the left
ive alwys thought itd be cool to do a corvette transmission and differential in the back of a pickup with the IRS and suspension from the vette back there - chop up the bed so that it fits, put some more weight towards the back end of the thing that way......i just don't like leaf springs.....or straight axles for that matter..on sport vehicles (diff for off road of course)
That would never handle the power this things gonna make especially with how heavy the truck is you get above 1000 hp in a vette that weighs 2000 less lbs than the truck and the trans and diffs dont last to long
@@jrm88382 I agree - not a perfect fit for this build....of course there's also no real way to do that driveline with a xfer case and 4wd/awd either anyways.....i still would love to see it done....i agree with LT, an S10-sized build would be a better way to go...but it could be done in a 1500 with a modest LS build as well (but no, not THIS build)
Hey lt have you thought about just getting another extended cab for the 4wd chassis? It’s just you did such a good build on the ugly truck it would be sad to see it go! Even if it isn’t the fastest drag car I feel like you could dominant some burnout competitions with it
I know I’ve told you this before, but you should mig those pieces, you fillet is probably too small, and you are using too little heat and not fast enough travel speed. Your cooking the part. The heat gets into the the part over time so high amperage and fast torch speed thill put less heat into the part. It is what is warping your parts.
Your first build montage had the base level music as loud or more loud than your commentary. Just a heads up your montage music is loud and you aren't always loud enough.
Man I would cringe everytime you launched it with that 10bolt. I've gone through 3 in the same truck with a stock 5.3. Thank God for tire spin or that 10 bolt would've gone a long time ago!!
I think you should just get another truck for the body and keep the ugly truck together (maybe skid truck) seems like a waste when you really are not going to use anything besides the body
4l60e???? You do realize it’s not gonna handle 1/6 of the power your wanting to dump into it? I know you know that. Sprag, input shaft, output shaft, 3/4 clutch piston not big enough.
I know I’ve told you this before, but you should mig those pieces, you fillet is probably too small, and you are using too little heat and not fast enough travel speed. Your cooking the part. The heat gets into the the part over time so high amperage and fast torch speed thill put less heat into the part. It is what is warping your parts.
It's cool to see someone filming for you in the last few videos. It adds a nice perspective. Whoever they are - they're doing a good job!
Thanks, and I agree! It does spicy it up a little
@@LawrenceTolman
I have never given advice on anyone’s video before but, I couldn’t help notice you use as much filler rod as possible, of course while burning your fingers. Being a broke individual as well, I use needle nose vise grips to get the last little bit I can out of my filler rod. Hope this helps.
Wife helping or do you have a rogue filmographer?
@@LawrenceTolman idk about the cameraman but the music (especially while you're talking) is too much... the only time (in my humble opinion as someone who watches youtube for 10-15 hours almost everyday) there should be background music is for very long intervals between speaking but mostly just time lapses honestly
Following this build of your’s… I’m curious to see how the sliding shackles and mono leaf setup does w/ getting 4 tires to hook. I’d also suggest using two nuts on each control arm bushing as a jam nut setup. This will allow you to eliminate any potential binding, w/o the bolts coming loose. Or use the Triangle shaped one-time use lock nuts(like pinion nuts)… I’m surprised to see those guys use that shape diff cover on the axle. Probably won’t matter on a drag truck, but those covers that dont shape around the ring gear are notorious for gear whine due to poor lubrication. Keep the videos coming. I like seeing the progress!
Building the chassis of a truck project is my favorite part
Nice work on fabricating the suspension components and putting the rear axle in! It is coming along great and whoever is doing the camera work they are doing a great job!! Thanks LT and can't wait to see more!
You should try using a “tig pen” to feed your filler rod. Mind you, its one of those tools you are either going to love or hate. I had ine for a long time, and used it once or twice, didn’t like it, so left it in the box. Later on decided to try it again and get used to it and I really like it now. Its saves $ by been able to use more of your filler rod, not burning your filler hand glove as much, and of course not burning your finger. They are cheap. I think i paid $10 for mine.
I have seen those, but never tried one. might be worth a shot!
LT, whomever is doing your camera work is doing really well! Makes a better video too.. Great job and greetings from the farm in S Carolina!!
Thanks I do like the extra movement in the shots
@@LawrenceTolman Only suggestion is the audio is too low when you are talking. Maybe add a microphone on yourself?
Watching this while entering the 5th hour of trying to fix my car. Nice to have some entertainment in my short breaks
Did you get it fixed?
@@bryanbrunk1186 still going actually. 7 hours deep
Whats wrong with it?
Needs to be a roller so it can go to the new shop!!!! I hope it all comes together brother!!
Hey LT, that rear end was standard in the 88-98 C2500.
the center of your perchs need to slide back 1½ inches from the center other then that when you install the bed is not goin to look center great work bro keep goin
While i think the 8.6 may have lived, it was a good move to get the 9.5. The weight is where the tq comes into play. If it was a short bed standard cab i think it would have been okay.
Looks good so far LT
This is the year! You deserve it!
Are the aluminum knuckles factory bolt up because I'm looking to get them with new upper and lower arms and remove my torsion bars?
I’m doing a lifted 05’ ccsb turbo build, and i’ve hit a wall on what to do with my fuel system. I was thinking about a sump kit in my factory plastic tank (like you did on the 11’ duramax on truck tech) do you think a sump like that would work with gas/E85? And a couple frame mounted AEM 400 inline pumps? I haven’t seen and of the gas guys doing those sumps. I just really don’t want any starvation under acceleration and it seems like all the setups in the factory bucket are troublesome. Do you think the sump would leak using gas/E85 more than they do when used with diesel?
The mess thing ,maybe build a corner closet for all your grinding and pianting.
Wear a respirator .
Putan exhaust fan in ?
Sounds like a lot ,you could mount a gopro in there and have a vacuum cleaner for the floor
Rock'en the cleeter Hoodie I 👀!!!!
Enjoying the content LT. Can't wait for the start of the turbo installation process..
Near the end (19:00+) you talked about moving the frame cross bar forward...with the type of springs and allowance on the rear spring purchase for movement, would the pumpkin potentially crash into that cross bar or is there plenty of clearance for that?
theres plenty of clearance between that crossmember and the rear end... I only need to move it by about 3" anyway
Loving the new camera perspective
thanks for noticing! it does give it a fresh look I think
Enjoy the content. Keep going, its gonna be a beast for sure!
So your either moving to a new house with shop or just getting a shop somewhere away from your house.
This has been fun to watch. Curious if u will be replacing any parts with fiber glass ones ? Bed, fenders, stuff like that? I personally think it would be cool if there was no bed floor so we could see everything work during a launch
You are going to want to weld in braces on the idler brackets. 4wd launches are known to bend them in sled pulling and off roading.
That was on my radar before, so I’ll def do it now
Guessing a shop is in the works. Fingers crossed for you
Drilling out the spring perches without safety glasses made me squirm. I've had a metal shaving go into my eye and it was some of the worst pain I've ever had. Stay safe LT, we love you buddy.
At least safety squint.
🙄 all these internet safety department managers should be enough to make everyone roll their eyes out of harm's way
13:00 I think they are called 1500 HD.
My dude rocking a cleeter shirt!
I really enjoy your channel...This is going to be an awesome truck!
Will the stock transfer case and front diff hold up to that type of power
Safety 3rd! But always wear eye protection!! The rear suspension is really cool!!
Sick build!!!
Thanks!
That 14 bolt 😍😍😍😍👍🏁🏁
Perfect rear axle niw it's time to start boxing the frame especially where the cab and bed meet
How would flipping the back cross tube work for space for the fuel cell? Instead of it bending in towards the front it would bend away to the back. You get to keep more of the stock frame and save on materials.
That may work, but I don’t know how close it would be to the rear bumper though
Alright motivation to get in the garage to work on my f-150!
MAN LT IT IS COMING ALONG SO NICE GREAT BUILD NZ.
Nice to see the rear end under the back, even if it's just mock up status. I'm super curious about this surprise your talking about. Maybe some kind of nice powder coat perhaps?!?!
Trucks coming along great! What model of Forney welder are you running? Looking to get back into welding again myself!
68👍's up LT thank you for sharing
Don't forget provisions for the parachutes. I'd personally rather deal with sanding old paint/rust than good paint/powdercoating later!!
Yup, also a trailer hitch for race week activities
Are you going to have the frame powder coated or just a wire wheel and paint kind of situation?
Will you be running the gusset for the idler arm on the steering?
I need to add some for sure
I can't wait for these next installments. Things are really happening now!!!
LT, I am about to get into tig welding and I was wondering which hand should I hold the torch and the filler? I am left handed so I have more control with my left. Would that be better for the filler or the torch?
I put the torch in my dominant (right) hand and filler in left, so my thought would be for you to use left hand torch and right filler, but it also comes down to preference because I know several right handed people who out the torch in the left
LT awesome job!!! 🇺🇲 🏁 😎 🏁 🏁 🏁 🏁 🏁 🏁 🏁 🏁
Thanks!
How are those Matco impacts and drills? I'm a Ridgid guy but open to check out anything thats decent.
I am hoping surprise is powder coat. This stuff is really starting to looks like a racer fast.
The front diff will it be stronger as rear
no, the front diff is not as strong, but most of the load should be going through the back
Awesome as always LT.
Thank you! Cheers!
Why not start with 07-13 front end and/or frame. Already set up for struts in conjunction with 4wd
ive alwys thought itd be cool to do a corvette transmission and differential in the back of a pickup with the IRS and suspension from the vette back there - chop up the bed so that it fits, put some more weight towards the back end of the thing that way......i just don't like leaf springs.....or straight axles for that matter..on sport vehicles (diff for off road of course)
I have had that same idea for sure, might be cool in an S-10 or other mini truck thats really light weight
That would never handle the power this things gonna make especially with how heavy the truck is you get above 1000 hp in a vette that weighs 2000 less lbs than the truck and the trans and diffs dont last to long
@@jrm88382 I agree - not a perfect fit for this build....of course there's also no real way to do that driveline with a xfer case and 4wd/awd either anyways.....i still would love to see it done....i agree with LT, an S10-sized build would be a better way to go...but it could be done in a 1500 with a modest LS build as well (but no, not THIS build)
You’re a good guy LT, every time I watch the shows and makes me want to garage so bad. How much did that rear end cost?🇺🇸👍
Hopefully, he got a hefty discount for promoting their company.
With your OCD I can't Believe you have not painted and cleaned the frame!
Nice work 💙 👍
Looking great LT!!! What brand do you trust for your plastic ramps?
You need more subs. Ask matts off-road recovery for some tips on that
Hey lt have you thought about just getting another extended cab for the 4wd chassis? It’s just you did such a good build on the ugly truck it would be sad to see it go! Even if it isn’t the fastest drag car I feel like you could dominant some burnout competitions with it
the more I think about it, the more this makes sense... not sure yet, but maybe
What front diff is being used ?
GM 8.25” IFS
@@LawrenceTolman are there any bigger diff that can be swapped in the front? have a turbo single cab 4wd too 🤙🏼
Big steps brother!
well done
16:00 not wearing safety glasses
Any idea how I can make 85 square body pickup short bed truck AWD ? it’s turbo 6.0 Ls
You're getting a shop and you need the truck to be a roller to transport it there right?....lol.
👍 job
I know I’ve told you this before, but you should mig those pieces, you fillet is probably too small, and you are using too little heat and not fast enough travel speed. Your cooking the part. The heat gets into the the part over time so high amperage and fast torch speed thill put less heat into the part. It is what is warping your parts.
What about a motor mid plate. That’s allot of torque to keep in check on motor mounts
We need a motor plate
LT, can a 73’ 4x4 Chevy be switched to AWD?
sure it could. just need a way to hook up an AWD case like the NV149 to whatever transmission you already have, and lock your front hubs
I am very glad that you have O.C.D. If you didn't you would half do somethings and your projects would not turn out as nice as they do.
LT you’re Killin me all that an didn’t put kryptonite steering components in it?
Bad boy Lawrence. No safety glasses while drilling and you left your can of pop exposed 👀🤦♂️😝
yup, guilty. I need to be better with safety gear
Are you going to be at the C-10 nationals in Salt Lake
Not sure right now, maybe as a spectator
LT you have the music to high
I’m surprised you didn’t use a full floater rear, but I’m sure it’s lighter
yeah, a 14b FF would for sure be stronger, but it does come with a hefty weight penalty for sure.
Inhale all that tungsten dust. ;)
LT, I have been looking foe a new vice & really like one like your. What brand is it & where did you get it form? Chassis really coming a long!!!
It’s actually a Wilton trailer hitch vise that I made a tabletop mount for, but it works pretty dang good
@@LawrenceTolman Thank LT
استمر يا وحش 🇸🇦🫡
Thank you!
The fastest trucks in Tx run got torque diffs
Your first build montage had the base level music as loud or more loud than your commentary. Just a heads up your montage music is loud and you aren't always loud enough.
I couldn't hear you over the music on either of my phones. I find it distracting anyways but this was too much. Hope that helps.
🔧
Great LT, now you just let everyone know that you are a Sith because we all know that "Only a Sith deals in absolutes." LOL
Haha… love it!
Man I would cringe everytime you launched it with that 10bolt. I've gone through 3 in the same truck with a stock 5.3. Thank God for tire spin or that 10 bolt would've gone a long time ago!!
*_Totally should buy a laser welder and save some money..._*
Didn't you say to keep your drinks in the fridge so nothing gets in it? Not on the bench next to where you are drilling.
Seems like you are replacing almost everything. Why not keep the 2wd truck complete and make a completely separate truck for the 4wd build?
It's looking good how is the progress on your valve train?
No copy right on the music
I pay a service to use the music
Wish you left the music out.I switched to another video as soon as it started!!!
I think you should just get another truck for the body and keep the ugly truck together (maybe skid truck) seems like a waste when you really are not going to use anything besides the body
Hope you change out that stock idler arm. They suck.
Absolutely will be upgrading those.
@Lawrence LT Tolman I went Cognito for everything but kryptonite front end kit is bad ass too.
4l60e???? You do realize it’s not gonna handle 1/6 of the power your wanting to dump into it? I know you know that. Sprag, input shaft, output shaft, 3/4 clutch piston not big enough.
The music drowns out your voice
yeah, it was a bit loud in this one
You should have just paint the chest to yourself instead of having it shipped out
Is it me or is your videos getting shorter and shorter
I know I’ve told you this before, but you should mig those pieces, you fillet is probably too small, and you are using too little heat and not fast enough travel speed. Your cooking the part. The heat gets into the the part over time so high amperage and fast torch speed thill put less heat into the part. It is what is warping your parts.