@@Modified1 Bonus points if the rear end is out on yours like mine. Been out about 5 years but I'm slowly getting her back together. I'm hoping spring/summer 2023 I'll be driving her. First in 6 years by then.
Things don’t happen without goals. Your work ethic is key. Thanks for giving us insight in what a great build really requires. Great example. Creativity, planning, hard work and lots of guts. 😊
Nice call on the 7 notch alignment cam swivel lockers, there are 5 hole ones as well but they have fewer degrees to hit crosscam with. I have them installed with the kryptonite Nordstrom cam swivels on the inside with a lock bolt on the "adjustment cam". I leave the pins in the lock side cam where the nut goes on the bolt and I leave them swinging off the pin with the control arm nut hand tight then loosly snug the bolt (where stock pin was swapped) on swiveling adjustment cam find crosscam and then pull the lock cam to the tightest dot slip it over and torque bolts. Keeping the stock style fine tune inner cam swivel with a lock bolt gives a better alignment and a set of backup lock cams as one only uses half of them in this way.
LT, you did the tie rod bend. Watch the episode of MT you did with the little red shortbed Chevy. When you launched it with boost brake, the front tires both wobbled inward.
Man this one is gonna be the one!! Suspension set up opposite of off road. Loose in the front, tight in the rear. Beings it's awd the front tires need to stay in touch with the ground. I wouldn't limit the travel either.
I swear, those have got to be the best ball joints I've ever used. Ill never use anything else and they're definitely worth their weight in gold 👌 They make some pretty beefy tierod ends too.
Hey LT, I’ve been watching you since POWERNATION and I just want to say watching you come out of your shell and show off your personality has been awesome
Do you have to run a certain diameter wheel to fit those spindles? Other things to consider is limit straps to control the front end from lifting. Whenever you see the bigger trucks struggle with buckling tires off the line is due to not maintaining the TR angles to keep the toe in check.
Pretty sure these spindles will let you run a 16” wheel, but my front brakes need a 17” minimum pretty sure. But I wanted to run 17x10 in all four corners
Those are aluminum knuckles that the spindles bolt too. Liking the build so far. Do you have any ideas for aftermarket axles for the front? What are you going to do for a rear axle?
I bought some tubular control arms and some QA1 adjustable coilovers for my 1975 firebird and it is a good bit lighter than stock so I think you made a good choice 👍
This is exciting!! If I can help you in any way just shout!! I actually did a video on the Viking shocks and discussed the valving letters on the shocks. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
This is a great build. Some hard earned advice: do not, under any circumstances, use polyurethane suspension bushings if you want any sort of consistent suspension action/launches. They are wholly unsuited as a suspension bushing material under any circumstances, let alone an 8 second race truck. You are far better off with stock rubber, delrin, or a spherical bearing.
98 lbs plus old shocks, I think! I wonder if AWD is worth it, though. Modern drag suspensions use limiters on front end travel that basically transfers all weight (regardless of static weight distribution) to the rear. Obviously requires the right suspension geometry in the rear to work-but even leaf spring vehicles are successful at it. Your “COPO” truck looked really good for 60 ft times, but I’m wondering if that’s the ultimate answer. Looking forward to the build and the results, regardless!
I would say AWD and 4wd has its advantages but is certainly not the simplest or even the best answer. A good light weight 2wd would probably run circles around this
@@brianthibodeau8958 I'll get in on the group buy for this kit. I was so disappointed when I bought my $500 04 Tahoe and found drag link steering and torsion bars on a 2wd. 🤢
@@LawrenceTolman I’ve been a automotive painter for the last 45 years I currently work for a bmw dealership let me know if you want my suggestions on how to go about it
Changing to lighter control arms and spindles will reduce the unstrung weight. Swapping coil overs for torsion bars adds unsprung weight. The question is how much lighter the lower control arm and coil over is than the stock control arm and shock? Is they’re the same or heavier then there’s no improvement in unsprung weight. Improvements in spring rate and damping with modern coil overs may warrant the swap. Looking at the weight chart and doing the math, if not for the lighter spindles the unsprung weight would only decrease by about six pounds per side.
LT does your scale not have a zero function? So you step on the scale zero it out and then get back on with the stuff. Would make that mental math easier lol Also I know all about that deviated septum. Have one too, I bet your sleep has improved incredibly though. I know mine caused sleep apnea starting at 17 years old.
Mitchell Stapleton #Stapleton42 is trying to break into 8 second 1/4 mile class with his twin turbo LSX 427 all-wheel drive Cadillac Escalade #LSXcalade
I bet if you tell suppliers that these parts are going on the fastest truck in your driveway, they will throw a bunch of free parts your way. 😁 But seriously you should check out OnDGas, lots of fast 4wd trucks.
Also just as a heads up, kryptonite...I love their gear but...their service...ordered the pitman idler setup, when it came I found their "deathgrip" idler would not engage properly and actually gave my truck a "deathwobble" so bad, my 14 year old daughter asked if that was center link rattle lol! Then called thinking it looked like it wanted their big center link to engage...big mistake!!! They were only interested in selling me guess what ....their center link with that sideways inner tie rod "upgrade" which I, on the warning of actual military service personel, would never put in any vehicle. They're known to be an immobilizer, one hard impact and your done... not on my truck... I'd buy backup ones if you go that route as 6-8 weeks for a new one is b.s. and oh ya their center link won't take stock tie rod swaps so pull the whole center link until they get your replacements to you, sounds fun huh... I got and suggest their stock inner tie rods as they are MASSIVE as are the ball joints as elsewhere posted. That "upgraded" inner tie rod design was pulled in the field regularly by the military it is junk! And that "awesome lifetime warranty" means rebuy return, then if they decide, a refund. I call it the three-re. They then shipped me, on purpose I think, a stage 2 control arm with a stage 3. So be careful their stuff is great and oversized but they are not, I mean oversized maybe lolol.
I was just calculating the weight loss you would get by installing these parts on a 4x4, but yea, for me I will also be gaining the weight of a transfer case, front driveshaft, front diff, and CV axles
saying you are on "light duty" after lifting and weighing a few hundred lbs you carried out of the basement made me laugh, hope I have half that energy after I get my sinus/nose surgery done next mth but take it easy on yourself
Didn't @stapleton42_ make way more horsepower and run slower than what your shooting for? Not saying that it's impossible. Just curious what the difference between the two will be.
I don't know what ET he ran, but pretty sure his escalade was 6,000lbs + where I Am shooting for a target race weight of 5,000lbs. weight can make a huge difference
@@LawrenceTolman that makes more sense. I didn't realize the weight was that different. Pretty sure he ran 8.90s before he hurt the previous motor. I don't think he has any videos of the current set up.
Good lord! I can't believe it saves that much weight! If I put all that stuff and an aluminum LS in my 2WD I think I may have to register it as an airplane! It already weighs less than a lot of cars...
Do you like building things that don't make sense like thinking or real drive is going to give you double the traction you know for that to be true you'd have to totally ignore weight shift
I don't know the exact numbers, but with most of the weight already over the the front axle he probably isn't as far from right saying double the traction. If you get half the weight to shift to the rear axle, it certainly isn't there to start...
Yes, underneath it’s gonna be all pretty, I wanna do a satin black on the frame, and under the hood will have some bright coloring as well. But outside, still ugly
Don’t over-do it LT. And of course we “care about that”! Gotta take care of LT first and foremost. We won’t have videos to watch if ur down and out LT!
You are WRONG about the sinus surgery. At least one viewer is interested. I actually need the surgery but everyone I have talked to tells me the surgery is horrible. Also have heard many say it didn’t help them much. Keep us posted please.
I own the fastest 1970 Cougar on jackstands that belongs to me.
I don't think you do HOMER
Hell yeah man I'll race you in my 1970 cutlass on Jack stands!!
@@TrailTime. I own the fastest stock windshield suzuki esteem
Niiiice
@@Modified1 Bonus points if the rear end is out on yours like mine. Been out about 5 years but I'm slowly getting her back together. I'm hoping spring/summer 2023 I'll be driving her. First in 6 years by then.
Things don’t happen without goals. Your work ethic is key. Thanks for giving us insight in what a great build really requires. Great example. Creativity, planning, hard work and lots of guts. 😊
get well soon LT, cant wait to see this build come together,
Glad your surgery went well. Looking forward to the latest build.
I use TRI flow for my aluminum UTV shocks. It works great.
As for the nose issue, I did it. Not a fun surgery.
Nice call on the 7 notch alignment cam swivel lockers, there are 5 hole ones as well but they have fewer degrees to hit crosscam with. I have them installed with the kryptonite Nordstrom cam swivels on the inside with a lock bolt on the "adjustment cam". I leave the pins in the lock side cam where the nut goes on the bolt and I leave them swinging off the pin with the control arm nut hand tight then loosly snug the bolt (where stock pin was swapped) on swiveling adjustment cam find crosscam and then pull the lock cam to the tightest dot slip it over and torque bolts. Keeping the stock style fine tune inner cam swivel with a lock bolt gives a better alignment and a set of backup lock cams as one only uses half of them in this way.
Don't shoot the messenger, but would it have been easier to bring the scale to your basement instead of the old suspension stuff up to the garage?
lol... if I would've stopped to think for 2 minutes I probably could have come up with this to save some time
LT, you did the tie rod bend. Watch the episode of MT you did with the little red shortbed Chevy. When you launched it with boost brake, the front tires both wobbled inward.
Man this one is gonna be the one!! Suspension set up opposite of off road. Loose in the front, tight in the rear. Beings it's awd the front tires need to stay in touch with the ground. I wouldn't limit the travel either.
Great point that more wheels turning is more strain and more work. Do it right and launch is no contest but keep up with it! 👍
Hoping for a speedy recovery Lawrence💪🏽
Someone needs to sponsor this guy! Love the vids man.
The amazing builds you are capable of in this tiny garage is insane! I hope you get a shop soon.
thanks, and I hope so also! I feel like I outgrew this space as soon as we moved in
@@LawrenceTolman I'd give anything for a garage of any size. I do all my work in my carport or in the dirt in my backyard.
I swear, those have got to be the best ball joints I've ever used. Ill never use anything else and they're definitely worth their weight in gold 👌 They make some pretty beefy tierod ends too.
Hey LT, I’ve been watching you since POWERNATION and I just want to say watching you come out of your shell and show off your personality has been awesome
I appreciate that! youtube is a different animal, and its taking a long time to unlearn some of the presenting styles from the last show
@@LawrenceTolmankeep building cool things and I think you’ll be fine lol
Do you have to run a certain diameter wheel to fit those spindles?
Other things to consider is limit straps to control the front end from lifting. Whenever you see the bigger trucks struggle with buckling tires off the line is due to not maintaining the TR angles to keep the toe in check.
Pretty sure these spindles will let you run a 16” wheel, but my front brakes need a 17” minimum pretty sure. But I wanted to run 17x10 in all four corners
Love the progress!! Can't wait for next video
Those are aluminum knuckles that the spindles bolt too. Liking the build so far. Do you have any ideas for aftermarket axles for the front? What are you going to do for a rear axle?
I bought some tubular control arms and some QA1 adjustable coilovers for my 1975 firebird and it is a good bit lighter than stock so I think you made a good choice 👍
Let the fun begin LT full speed ahead
This is exciting!! If I can help you in any way just shout!! I actually did a video on the Viking shocks and discussed the valving letters on the shocks. Go fast, go straight! Be SAFE!
thanks, and will do!
i care man, hope you feel better soon, Cant wait for the build to start!
We have the same except the big block. Building new front suspension right now. R&d has been fun.
Wicked fab makes a weld on extended spring bucket
Wicked Fab doesn't list prices on their FB page, so I wonder just how much they're overcharging for control arms and oem aluminum spindles.
How many CFMs did you pick up on that port and polish?
So what if the front diff can't handle the power? I know the IFS housings break in half with 35's and factory torque from a 5.7
Can't wait for more updates
Do you need to coat the frame before building. I know Utah salt their roads
Yes sir I have aluminum spindles on my 14 silverado new body!!!! Also has the 6.2 tuned by lew lol
Love your stuff keep it up
Larry JR "Mom! Dad is in the garage spending money again!"
This is a great build.
Some hard earned advice: do not, under any circumstances, use polyurethane suspension bushings if you want any sort of consistent suspension action/launches. They are wholly unsuited as a suspension bushing material under any circumstances, let alone an 8 second race truck. You are far better off with stock rubber, delrin, or a spherical bearing.
Glad you’re on the mend LT. 👊🏻
Much appreciated
98 lbs plus old shocks, I think! I wonder if AWD is worth it, though. Modern drag suspensions use limiters on front end travel that basically transfers all weight (regardless of static weight distribution) to the rear. Obviously requires the right suspension geometry in the rear to work-but even leaf spring vehicles are successful at it. Your “COPO” truck looked really good for 60 ft times, but I’m wondering if that’s the ultimate answer. Looking forward to the build and the results, regardless!
I would say AWD and 4wd has its advantages but is certainly not the simplest or even the best answer. A good light weight 2wd would probably run circles around this
Does does steering knuckles work on the 2004 Silverado oem control arms
Is a rack n pinion conversion possible for these 4wd GMT800 trucks?
Very nice work! Keep it up!!!
for sure it is, just would require a little custom fab work
You should add a rack n pinion to the ugly truck and make a video for us 😎 There is nothing on the web about this conversion.
Thanks!!!
@@brianthibodeau8958 I'll get in on the group buy for this kit. I was so disappointed when I bought my $500 04 Tahoe and found drag link steering and torsion bars on a 2wd. 🤢
What the part numbers for the spindle
Will those front spindles fit a
02 escalade ?
with the wicked fab kit they will, the 02 escalade has the same type of front suspension as a 4x4 truck
Could do heim joint tie rods, and 1.5 tubing or whatever size u want
and that answers what you were going with torsion bar from kryptonite or yesterday
I really enjoy your videos...Very informative. I have lots of family in Utah...I know the area well.
Glad you like them!
Skeleton on the bench press... hahaha
✔💯🏎👨🔧⭐👍🏻
YES! finally someone noticed it lol
LT got his nose ported and polished but still has a stock bottom end 🇺🇲
Hey LT nice parts , are you going to paint the frame in your garage , or are you going to send it out to have it sand blasted then powder coated
I’d love to have it sent out for sandblasting and painting, but we’ll see. I may tackle it myself
@@LawrenceTolman I’ve been a automotive painter for the last 45 years I currently work for a bmw dealership let me know if you want my suggestions on how to go about it
Changing to lighter control arms and spindles will reduce the unstrung weight.
Swapping coil overs for torsion bars adds unsprung weight.
The question is how much lighter the lower control arm and coil over is than the stock control arm and shock? Is they’re the same or heavier then there’s no improvement in unsprung weight.
Improvements in spring rate and damping with modern coil overs may warrant the swap.
Looking at the weight chart and doing the math, if not for the lighter spindles the unsprung weight would only decrease by about six pounds per side.
Port and polish huh? Did you get before and after CFM readings by chance? Think you'll see any hp gains? Lol
I need to ask for the flow charts lol
@@LawrenceTolman Haha, couldn't pass that up. Love, love, love the content man! Keep it up!
13:45 good for a few xtra hp😁
He said "port & polish" 🤣🤣🤣 LMFAO
Does that mean that people that use a cpap machine have better performance than "naturally aspirated" breathers?
Got a link for that anti-seize?
www.weezelindustries.com/product-page/weezel-sqweeze and I'll add it to the description as well
Heal fast bud. I may need that same surgery. I'm withina year of finally driving my turbo drag silverado.
I care about your sinus issues...glad you are able to get treatment....and love the truck too
Sleeper…. Let’s do a full exhaust!!!
I think it is gonna go back to full exhaust actually... I have a feeling the 535 is gonna be a bit louder than the 8.1
@@LawrenceTolman electric cut outs best of both worlds...lol
Sick
LT does your scale not have a zero function? So you step on the scale zero it out and then get back on with the stuff. Would make that mental math easier lol
Also I know all about that deviated septum. Have one too, I bet your sleep has improved incredibly though. I know mine caused sleep apnea starting at 17 years old.
LOL, port and polish... I like where this build is going.
I Would paint those Spindles with a rock chip resistant paint, probably etch and alodine them before painting.
Mitchell Stapleton #Stapleton42 is trying to break into 8 second 1/4 mile class with his twin turbo LSX 427 all-wheel drive Cadillac Escalade #LSXcalade
"A port & polish". Lol.
Definitely will want kryptonite pitman and idler arms to keep center link from turning and causing toe in on launches
"Port & Polish." lmao
When I got my deviated septum repaired I got Covid in the hospital. Recovering from the surgery sucked! Sadly my septum died so it’s now perforated.
Of course we care about your health, if you're not healthy, no content, no content means sad viewers. Hope all is good and you're healing well.
Aye power ain't nothing if you can't get it to the ground....Chasis and suspension is where it starts for that 🤾♂️
9:39 Do you even lift bro?
I bet if you tell suppliers that these parts are going on the fastest truck in your driveway, they will throw a bunch of free parts your way. 😁 But seriously you should check out OnDGas, lots of fast 4wd trucks.
You should move that big block back as far as possible and chop the firewall, move the seats back. Promod shit. 🤙🏻
Also just as a heads up, kryptonite...I love their gear but...their service...ordered the pitman idler setup, when it came I found their "deathgrip" idler would not engage properly and actually gave my truck a "deathwobble" so bad, my 14 year old daughter asked if that was center link rattle lol! Then called thinking it looked like it wanted their big center link to engage...big mistake!!! They were only interested in selling me guess what ....their center link with that sideways inner tie rod "upgrade" which I, on the warning of actual military service personel, would never put in any vehicle. They're known to be an immobilizer, one hard impact and your done... not on my truck... I'd buy backup ones if you go that route as 6-8 weeks for a new one is b.s. and oh ya their center link won't take stock tie rod swaps so pull the whole center link until they get your replacements to you, sounds fun huh... I got and suggest their stock inner tie rods as they are MASSIVE as are the ball joints as elsewhere posted. That "upgraded" inner tie rod design was pulled in the field regularly by the military it is junk! And that "awesome lifetime warranty" means rebuy return, then if they decide, a refund. I call it the three-re. They then shipped me, on purpose I think, a stage 2 control arm with a stage 3. So be careful their stuff is great and oversized but they are not, I mean oversized maybe lolol.
Ever since my last broken nose healed I can't breathe right either. I might have to get that surgery if it helps
Don't forget the added weight of the front axle
I was just calculating the weight loss you would get by installing these parts on a 4x4, but yea, for me I will also be gaining the weight of a transfer case, front driveshaft, front diff, and CV axles
saying you are on "light duty" after lifting and weighing a few hundred lbs you carried out of the basement made me laugh, hope I have half that energy after I get my sinus/nose surgery done next mth but take it easy on yourself
Didn't @stapleton42_ make way more horsepower and run slower than what your shooting for? Not saying that it's impossible. Just curious what the difference between the two will be.
I don't know what ET he ran, but pretty sure his escalade was 6,000lbs + where I Am shooting for a target race weight of 5,000lbs. weight can make a huge difference
@@LawrenceTolman that makes more sense. I didn't realize the weight was that different. Pretty sure he ran 8.90s before he hurt the previous motor. I don't think he has any videos of the current set up.
The method behind the madness.
that's what I was trying to say!
Next time just take the scale to the basement! Unless you're looking for some exercise 😁
Next project: LBZ swapped 1500 shorty, awd with a zf manual trans
With turbo 400 and 2.50 gears.
that sounds like a lot of fun
I couldn't find anyone near me that would align my truck after putting in the locking camber plates. Had to go back to factory
that sucks to hear. if need be, I'll just do it myself
Crawfish 🦞 🔥🔥🔥😂😂😂
one of my favorite trucks!
Good lord! I can't believe it saves that much weight! If I put all that stuff and an aluminum LS in my 2WD I think I may have to register it as an airplane! It already weighs less than a lot of cars...
Youd drop some time when you ditch the interior and cover the bed. Aero is important.... but you working with a barn.
It really doesn't make a lot of sense but I think it is a great concept.
+\- 8.50’s in a 5000 lb brick is a challenge indeed… Fun Challenge !
Bro eventually I wanna convert my 2wd into a 4wd. One day I’m gonna make it happen!!
Go for it!
Lol i hope to be a 1 of 1 4x4 obs suburban with a Whipple 5.3
Do you like building things that don't make sense like thinking or real drive is going to give you double the traction you know for that to be true you'd have to totally ignore weight shift
I don't know the exact numbers, but with most of the weight already over the the front axle he probably isn't as far from right saying double the traction. If you get half the weight to shift to the rear axle, it certainly isn't there to start...
Hey Lawrence! Great vids bud!! Was just wondering if you planned on painting/coating the frame since it’s the “Ugly Truck”?
Yes, underneath it’s gonna be all pretty, I wanna do a satin black on the frame, and under the hood will have some bright coloring as well. But outside, still ugly
You didn't count the weight of the stock shocks.
Ahh, good point. We’ll have to add another couple of pounds on the stock side
Don’t over-do it LT. And of course we “care about that”! Gotta take care of LT first and foremost. We won’t have videos to watch if ur down and out LT!
Once he finish the ugly truck take it on hoonigans channel and drag race it on a this vs that video
I would love to!
Try contacting them they probably would be interested to see what the truck can do. They raced trucks on there before
You forgot the weight of the stock shocks. So that would put you over 100lbs saved.
I had that surgery 2 times and it SUCKS!!!!!
You are WRONG about the sinus surgery. At least one viewer is interested. I actually need the surgery but everyone I have talked to tells me the surgery is horrible. Also have heard many say it didn’t help them much. Keep us posted please.
#1
I own the fastest v6 05 premium mustang automatic with a black fender and hood that belongs to me 😂
Sorry man I already beat you to it but mine's a Z71 off-road package but still have 5.3
Kryptonite suspension parts are BEEFY!!!
Make it awd
Your health matters LT.. because without you healthy we wouldn't have your channel
I have a deviated septum that needs a port job. So don't assume no one would be interested
Port and polish huh.... somebody's getting protested next time for illegal head modifications...
Hey we care about your nose lol
12 inch 600 pounds coils?! Those things maybe weigh 10 pounds. Come on!
That’s the spring rate…