Was at this point with my trans tonight and thought I better stop and see if anyone else had this problem before I broke something. Glad to see you pushed through and got er' done. Thanks!
Dude, I'm doing an 8L90 having the same problem and thought I was trippin. Thanks a lot for the reassurance man. Much needed lol. I've been a mechanic for 16 years and never ever have I come across one this hard to separate. Especially such a new truck/trans.
Ran into this exact issue 5mins ago, i check 6 times to make sure I got all the bolts out, counted the bolts 4 times. Now I’m gonna try to torch method, thanks for the reassurance, I could of swore I was about to go nuts.
Just the video I was looking for! Been trying to get this damn thing off for 4 hours. You said get the sledgehammer out and I listened. 10 minutes later she pops free!!👍🏻🔥🔥
Thank you my dude!. You’re right, there isn’t anything helpful online-I was so frustrated and had no direction until I saw this so I am very grateful for this video man. Doing a full rebuild/delete as well as some fun upgrades-cam, etc.
My .02 here. Way i seperate these rusty seizures. With med pry bar pry from the bottom which ever side gives you an 8th or less just to fit a small 4 to 6in flat head. Now plenty of pb blaster on dowels and all bell housing holes or if you want to do this before. Now with gentle force, hammer up, once you get more clearance go to other side and wedge another small flat head. Go back and forth hammering up without prying into bell house. Make sure your leveled as possible to avoid trans binding...hint trans supported. Works everytime. 👍
I've pulled 20-30 of these 6L80 transmissions, two in the past week. And they are all a pain to get out. Usually I spray them down with pb blaster before I even start. Then I'll smack them a few times with a chisel and once it's time to come out I'll have two pry bars and just slowly work it out prying against the block, not the pan or flex plate, and the housing and they eventually come out. Before I reinstall I use a bur tool and clean up the new transmission pin holes and put grease in them so it'll be easier the next time. Transfer cases on these are usually stuck too.
You Saved me! After watching you video I crawed under my truck and did a vicious dance. ACrack so loud I thought I broke something. (Manual transmission) then it was free!! Thought I was losing my mind! Thanks again!
work perfect. i torched the two dowels, then used a sharp thin metal chisel and split the case right from the block and was done in 15 mins on a 20 year old truck in rust belt
@@TheSundaeDrive The culprit is the bolt from the starter. The manual said remove the bolt if necessary. I removed the starter having two bolts, one short and another one 3 times the short one. The long one is penetrating the engine, so how in the hell can I separate the transmission from the engine without removing that bolt.
If you heat up those dowel pins and then press a candle stick against the dowel pins. The wax will seep in via the heated metal and it will help get it separated or you can liberally douse it with brake fluid.
Our pins were also very stuck. We used an air hammer with a punch bit on it. Hit the pins from the back with it, and it came apart in just a few seconds on each side.
Definitely felt like I was going crazy. Another tip is use a swivel on a socket with like 2 feet of extensions you can get the torque converter bolts from the front of the engine with an impact.
We generally remove the bolts, remove the engine mount bolts and lift up on the engine with the engine craine . Once we lift as much as it will, with the trans still hooked, I place a jack stand with a piece of 2x4 on top snug against the trans just behind the engine. Then lower the craine a little bit and the weight of the engine in front of the trans pops the two apart.
Tip for torque converter bolts, turn the rachet to the left, and you can slide a breaker bar between the cab and framerails, into the passenger wheelwell. So much easier to break loose.
I coated the pins with copper antisieze and put a thin layer between the bell housing and motor so that hopefully it comes apart much easier in the future. Thanks! Merry Christmas to you as well!
that's why I have 3 inch body lift on my trucks so it can be easier to work on them I know people don't like them.but when it comes to put your hands in tide spaces that's where the 3 inch body lift comes.handy
I did a bit of prying but saw that was not making progress. Got out the air hammer with a blunt straight pin setup, one trigger squeeze from the engine side for each pin and done. Way less sweat and swearing, more time for cold beer.
So I may have rounded my last torque converter bolt on the flywheel… I’m going to try and pull the trans off anyway I assume the converter will just stay on my engine and I’ll get the bolt out after? Fingers crossed
Aww man, that stinks. You'll eventually need to get it off because those torque converters fail pretty regularly. Just be careful to not mess up the splines.
@@TheSundaeDrive yeah was a pain but I got the trans separated from the engine. Heated the pins a couple times, used a punch and gave them some encouragement then used a pry bar I came up through some access holes at the bottom section of the bell housing and gave her a few wiggles left side then right etc and she slid apart nicely
Yes, must be done, remove the starter plate, two 10 mm, I used a long extension from in front of engine to go under mounts and reach these flywheel bolts.
Save me again please! I got everything on my clutch replaced. Flywhee, pilot bearing clutch plate installed correctly and pressure plate. I used the alignment tool to align parts before tightening everything thing up I used a trans jack to lift the trans in place. Is there a certain angle to get the bell housing to made to the engine. I believe I have the splines in and aligned. I turned the trans tail by hand to get splines in place. OR at least I think I do. It seems that something is binding preventing me from making the engine trans marriage flush. Tomorrow I am going to run a 2×4 through the door windows and try to "float" the trans using a ratcheting tie down strap. I am wondering if the trans jack is causing me the problem because I am not impress with the forward and aft tilt. I've done many transmission and clutches but thus is the first nv3500 I've dealt with. It is really a pain with the trans body and bell housing integrated. I'll take a BW T-5 any day over the crazy design. I am also working on the floor and by myself. The T-5 I could through on my shoulder and spin the tailshaft until it all fell into place and flush ez breezy. Any help would be appreciated.
yea same issue here with a 2014 Mustang GT.....I've changed the clutch twice on this thing and this time I can't get it apart. I'll try the heat when I get home....
Great video I hope I can become as fortunate as you were. I hosed everything down with PB blaster and i'm going to let it sit overnight. Hopefully that will help with the separation and if not I'm in for an extremely long day because my transmission is stuck Holy Cathedral Hell under my truck.😳🙏😭😭😭
I'm currently doing this on a Nissan Micra and the thing is STUCK! I expected to use my bare hands to remove it but I think I'll be renting a floor transmission jack to finish the job. Impossible to wiggle it free by hand. Oh well I didn't expect this to be an easy job especially on the floor.
Very helpful What do you have hooked to the hoist connected to the engine I need to buy that part and where do you have a hooked up to all the engine so I don’t hurt myself pulling it out
Just a random theory: If the engine and transmission is stuck together on a manual transmission car, could you put it in gear and gently rock the car to wiggle the two apart? My thinking is that if it has 7-8 large bolts holding it together to keep these torsion forces in check, then without the bolts, they should be able to twist. Perhaps not much because of the alignment pins, but that's still a lot fewer contact points. As soon as I can afford an engine hoist, my seized motor is coming out of the car and I don't actually know how difficult it will be to separate the engine/transmission. All the bolts on the bell housing are loosened and ready, preparing for the worst, hoping for the best.
Update.... I have the engine and transmission out.... I took a mini torch and heated the dowels up and got one side really hot and then stomped on the tail and heated the other side and stomped it again and it separated in a matter of minutes
Since I didn't want to damage the front seal.on my tranny, I dropped the cross member, dropped the front diff as far as it would let me, then with the motor mount bolts out, I was able to jack up the engine just enough to get the oil pan off. My motor was frozen on the rod bearings and when I loosened the correct rod bearing cap, it began to spin and I was able to get to all the TC bolts
Nightmare fuel. Hopefully you got them. But these newer GM trucks they put the TC bolts closer to the block, almost no room. The GMT800 trucks you could fit a 1/2” impact gun where the starter sits and zip them out.
Thank you! I was having the same problem thinking have I forgot something?? 😂 Jesus Christ is Lord! John 3:16 For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son that whosoever believeth in Him shall not perish but have everlasting life.
Was at this point with my trans tonight and thought I better stop and see if anyone else had this problem before I broke something. Glad to see you pushed through and got er' done. Thanks!
No problem! I was questioning myself too lol
is ur wife hot?
Fought with it for an hour and half. Found your video and had it off in 5 minutes. Thanks man
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Dude, I'm doing an 8L90 having the same problem and thought I was trippin. Thanks a lot for the reassurance man. Much needed lol. I've been a mechanic for 16 years and never ever have I come across one this hard to separate. Especially such a new truck/trans.
Me right now lol
Ran into this exact issue 5mins ago, i check 6 times to make sure I got all the bolts out, counted the bolts 4 times. Now I’m gonna try to torch method, thanks for the reassurance, I could of swore I was about to go nuts.
Just the video I was looking for! Been trying to get this damn thing off for 4 hours. You said get the sledgehammer out and I listened. 10 minutes later she pops free!!👍🏻🔥🔥
The sound of the dowels creaking is all I needed to know. Thanks for the video.
Lol glad it helped!
Thank you my dude!. You’re right, there isn’t anything helpful online-I was so frustrated and had no direction until I saw this so I am very grateful for this video man. Doing a full rebuild/delete as well as some fun upgrades-cam, etc.
You’re welcome! Goodluck with your upgrades!
My .02 here. Way i seperate these rusty seizures. With med pry bar pry from the bottom which ever side gives you an 8th or less just to fit a small 4 to 6in flat head. Now plenty of pb blaster on dowels and all bell housing holes or if you want to do this before.
Now with gentle force, hammer up, once you get more clearance go to other side and wedge another small flat head. Go back and forth hammering up without prying into bell house. Make sure your leveled as possible to avoid trans binding...hint trans supported. Works everytime. 👍
Thanks for the tip! Seems like a good approach
Thank you! This explains why I was struggling with removing my 4l60e
Air hammer against engine side of the dowel for the win. Hammer that dowel hard with as much psi as you can. Worked for me.
Thanks for the tip and glad you got it!
I've pulled 20-30 of these 6L80 transmissions, two in the past week. And they are all a pain to get out. Usually I spray them down with pb blaster before I even start. Then I'll smack them a few times with a chisel and once it's time to come out I'll have two pry bars and just slowly work it out prying against the block, not the pan or flex plate, and the housing and they eventually come out. Before I reinstall I use a bur tool and clean up the new transmission pin holes and put grease in them so it'll be easier the next time. Transfer cases on these are usually stuck too.
You Saved me! After watching you video I crawed under my truck and did a vicious dance. ACrack so loud I thought I broke something. (Manual transmission) then it was free!! Thought I was losing my mind! Thanks again!
Glad to help! Just knowing that it is that hard is reassuring before you go and pry for sure
The loud crack (noise) it made!! I thought for sure something broke.
work perfect. i torched the two dowels, then used a sharp thin metal chisel and split the case right from the block and was done in 15 mins on a 20 year old truck in rust belt
Glad it helped you!
my Honda Civic is 1997, 23 years old now. I need to get a lawyer to separate them. Sad!
😂😂 best of luck with it!
@@TheSundaeDrive The culprit is the bolt from the starter. The manual said remove the bolt if necessary. I removed the starter having two bolts, one short and another one 3 times the short one. The long one is penetrating the engine, so how in the hell can I separate the transmission from the engine without removing that bolt.
@@balloney2175 did you ever get it out and how ? i’m stuck in the same position
Omg I didn’t think i would find a video on this. I’ve been struggling with this.
I used a come along with a chain on the aft trans support hooked to non-removable cross member support. Easy. S-10.
I've been working on my 2006 Explorer 4.0 all day. Like you rocking and pulling. Will try heat tomorrow. Thank you!
Best of luck with it! It was a pain for us
I'm doing this rn on a Ram 3500 thank you on the tip. I tried everything until I seen this video 🙌
Glad it helped! Definitely not fun haha
If you heat up those dowel pins and then press a candle stick against the dowel pins. The wax will seep in via the heated metal and it will help get it separated or you can liberally douse it with brake fluid.
Our pins were also very stuck. We used an air hammer with a punch bit on it. Hit the pins from the back with it, and it came apart in just a few seconds on each side.
Definitely felt like I was going crazy. Another tip is use a swivel on a socket with like 2 feet of extensions you can get the torque converter bolts from the front of the engine with an impact.
Good to know!
I did this exact same thing today! Crazy to think I’m reading about you doing this a year ago haha
We generally remove the bolts, remove the engine mount bolts and lift up on the engine with the engine craine . Once we lift as much as it will, with the trans still hooked, I place a jack stand with a piece of 2x4 on top snug against the trans just behind the engine. Then lower the craine a little bit and the weight of the engine in front of the trans pops the two apart.
Nice, thanks! Reassurance just when we needed it!
Lol no problem! I was in the same place and was looking for some myself and couldn't find any so I thought I would make some for the next guy lol
Tip for torque converter bolts, turn the rachet to the left, and you can slide a breaker bar between the cab and framerails, into the passenger wheelwell. So much easier to break loose.
I'd think I'd put a touch of anti-seize on that before reassembly?
Loving this vids. Keep em coming, and Merry Christmas!
I coated the pins with copper antisieze and put a thin layer between the bell housing and motor so that hopefully it comes apart much easier in the future. Thanks! Merry Christmas to you as well!
Smart
that's why I have 3 inch body lift on my trucks so it can be easier to work on them I know people don't like them.but when it comes to put your hands in tide spaces that's where the 3 inch body lift comes.handy
That definetely gives more clearance for sure
I did a bit of prying but saw that was not making progress. Got out the air hammer with a blunt straight pin setup, one trigger squeeze from the engine side for each pin and done. Way less sweat and swearing, more time for cold beer.
So I may have rounded my last torque converter bolt on the flywheel… I’m going to try and pull the trans off anyway I assume the converter will just stay on my engine and I’ll get the bolt out after? Fingers crossed
Aww man, that stinks. You'll eventually need to get it off because those torque converters fail pretty regularly. Just be careful to not mess up the splines.
I haven't pulled the transmission separately on my truck yet but hopefully it works out for you!
@@TheSundaeDrive yeah was a pain but I got the trans separated from the engine. Heated the pins a couple times, used a punch and gave them some encouragement then used a pry bar I came up through some access holes at the bottom section of the bell housing and gave her a few wiggles left side then right etc and she slid apart nicely
Sweet! Hopefully you are able to get that bolt out!
Can you take the fly wheel bolts off where the starter bolts up
Yes, must be done, remove the starter plate, two 10 mm, I used a long extension from in front of engine to go under mounts and reach these flywheel bolts.
Why do you have to remove the bolts from the torque converter?
Are yiu serious 😳
If you leave the tc on you the fly wheel you can fuck up the trans fluid pump.
Save me again please! I got everything on my clutch replaced. Flywhee, pilot bearing clutch plate installed correctly and pressure plate. I used the alignment tool to align parts before tightening everything thing up
I used a trans jack to lift the trans in place. Is there a certain angle to get the bell housing to made to the engine. I believe I have the splines in and aligned. I turned the trans tail by hand to get splines in place. OR at least I think I do. It seems that something is binding preventing me from making the engine trans marriage flush. Tomorrow I am going to run a 2×4 through the door windows and try to "float" the trans using a ratcheting tie down strap. I am wondering if the trans jack is causing me the problem because I am not impress with the forward and aft tilt. I've done many transmission and clutches but thus is the first nv3500 I've dealt with. It is really a pain with the trans body and bell housing integrated. I'll take a BW T-5 any day over the crazy design. I am also working on the floor and by myself. The T-5 I could through on my shoulder and spin the tailshaft until it all fell into place and flush ez breezy. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks for the video. Thought I was loosing my mind. I’ll keep working on it.
Thanks. Thing is stuck on hard. I didn't think the dowels could do that. Going back at it tomorrow with a serious pry bar.
Thanks guy, also in the process to do this on an old Cad ...
Hope you managed to get it apart!
yea same issue here with a 2014 Mustang GT.....I've changed the clutch twice on this thing and this time I can't get it apart. I'll try the heat when I get home....
When i jack up the trans a bit the whole engine moves up as well. Is that normal?
was questioning if there was a hidden bolt is why i started looking , mine is stuck on there good also.
Great video 💯💪🏼
Hope it helped!
Doing this too and I honestly thought I was missing a bolt and could not find it...
I'll continue tomorrow...
Great video I hope I can become as fortunate as you were. I hosed everything down with PB blaster and i'm going to let it sit overnight. Hopefully that will help with the separation and if not I'm in for an extremely long day because my transmission is stuck Holy Cathedral Hell under my truck.😳🙏😭😭😭
Good luck! It is never a fun job. I hope it is warm at least where you are while you are working on it
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks bud I'm going to keep trying. Right now it's about 40° so hopefully it won't drop below freezing.
Yeah man. Nothing worse then working in the cold
@@TheSundaeDrive Agreed and yesterday's rainstorm didn't help either. I spent all morning with the shop vac sucking up 80 gallons of water.
I'm currently doing this on a Nissan Micra and the thing is STUCK! I expected to use my bare hands to remove it but I think I'll be renting a floor transmission jack to finish the job. Impossible to wiggle it free by hand. Oh well I didn't expect this to be an easy job especially on the floor.
I was afraid to damage the old tranny since I have to return it for core. I guess it doesn't matter 😅
I still couldn’t split them I had to pull the trans with it
Dang that stinks (
Very helpful What do you have hooked to the hoist connected to the engine I need to buy that part and where do you have a hooked up to all the engine so I don’t hurt myself pulling it out
Its called an engine load leveler
Just a random theory:
If the engine and transmission is stuck together on a manual transmission car, could you put it in gear and gently rock the car to wiggle the two apart? My thinking is that if it has 7-8 large bolts holding it together to keep these torsion forces in check, then without the bolts, they should be able to twist. Perhaps not much because of the alignment pins, but that's still a lot fewer contact points.
As soon as I can afford an engine hoist, my seized motor is coming out of the car and I don't actually know how difficult it will be to separate the engine/transmission. All the bolts on the bell housing are loosened and ready, preparing for the worst, hoping for the best.
I cant clear one stud but clean the other studs with wd 40 and alot of yanking of the engine
Lots of yanking for sure. Pain in the butt. Use a lot of antisieze when you reassembly it
It took you 4 hours to remember your torque converter bolts? J/k thanks for posting
Rofl that would have been sad. No problem!
Mine had 6 converter bolts
Some converters do like those found in the cts-v, ZL1, some 6.2 Silverados etc.
yah! I am almost about to give up on that and call an auto mechanic to do it for me.
It is a pain in the butt for sure.
Update.... I have the engine and transmission out.... I took a mini torch and heated the dowels up and got one side really hot and then stomped on the tail and heated the other side and stomped it again and it separated in a matter of minutes
Thanks for the update!
How to remove torque converter bolts with seized engine
Exactly what I need to know......
Exactly what I need to know
Pull oil pan, loosen main caps
Don't bother just pull the converter with the engine fuck it worst that will happen is you damage the front seal in the tranny
Since I didn't want to damage the front seal.on my tranny, I dropped the cross member, dropped the front diff as far as it would let me, then with the motor mount bolts out, I was able to jack up the engine just enough to get the oil pan off. My motor was frozen on the rod bearings and when I loosened the correct rod bearing cap, it began to spin and I was able to get to all the TC bolts
Next time, Hit the pins with an air hammer. Saves time and frustration
I can’t get the fucking torque converter to fly wheel bolts off
Nightmare fuel. Hopefully you got them. But these newer GM trucks they put the TC bolts closer to the block, almost no room. The GMT800 trucks you could fit a 1/2” impact gun where the starter sits and zip them out.
15mm swivel socket, worked for me
God help us 🙏
It really is a pain sometimes
Thank you! I was having the same problem thinking have I forgot something?? 😂
Jesus Christ is Lord!
John 3:16
For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son that whosoever believeth in Him shall not perish but have everlasting life.
I know right. It is stuck on tight
Dudes really have no idea what they’re doing lol
They are trying to disconnect the transmission (tranny) from the engine/motor.
darude sandstorm