Extremely well put together DIY manifold and riser change out. Now I understand what dry joint manifolds and risers are. The blockage must be inside the manifolds. Work was expertly done. Should be the go to video for this job going forward. Glad to hear you had no overheat alarms going off. I guess the next thing is stalking hesitation issue. Check the anti syphon valve and fuel pick up tube in the fuel tank.
Hi Mark! Hope you are doing well. Brother, thanks so much for watching and your comment. Yes, finally, no more overheating. I'll be checking those items you mentioned next. Bro, thanks again for your help and support. Peace from the Keys!
Thanks for an excellent tutorial on the R and R of the risers and manifolds. I wonder if that check ball was the major contributor of your overheating. If I run into this, I might check that first to make sure it is free and rattling. The manifold guide bolts you made were BRILLIANT!
Hi Michael, hope you had an awesome Thanksgiving. Either a blockage or the valve...but the valve is the only thing I found that may be the overheating problem. Brother, thanks for your comment and support! Peace from the Keys!
In salt water the manifold plug up at the bottom. Need the flush the cooling system with fresh water. Look at the holes after removing the check valve and brass plugs you’ll see the corrosion block. 3 years is the max for exhaust manifold. You need to install a closed cooling kit to keep this from happening. Then the only you will need to maintain is the exhaust elbow. If you flush after each use that will lengthen the life of these components in the cooling system. Sterndrive and inboard engines in salt water closed cooling is a must.
Great information that will help others. Thanks for the information! Closed cooling for sure is important in saltwater use. Thanks again! Peace from the Keys!
When applying Teflon tape it is imperative that you apply the thread in the same direction as the threads to tighten. You put the tape on backwards so when threading it in the tape is dislodged and doesn't provide the same level of sealing.
Awesome instructional brother! Overheating issue taken care of! I suspect that hesitating has to do with some connection somewhere. I know you replaced the harness. Wondering if there could be a short somewhere 🤔 either way, one step closer! 🤙
Thanks so much Brother. Yes, I'm working with the next thing in line. But at least no overheating, lets see where it takes us. Have a great weekend! Peace from the Keys!
great video! I changed mine twice already and wish I would have know the trick with the cut bolts 😀. Just to mention it, but I think to tighten the bolts you are supposed to use a torque wrench. My spec (V6) is calling out for 22 ft/lbs in two steps (11/22)
Great job! Good watch! I hope you get business from this. I think it was good to add that it took you roughly 5 hours to do this job not including the sea trail.
Hi Rafael, Thanks for watching our video! I don't remember the size, but here's the link to the set I used: 12 PCS Allen Socket Set: amzn.to/3SLFHbE Peace from the Keys!
For the big plug I used the end of our ratchet, don't remember the size it might be 1/2" it fits perfectly, for the small plugs I used the allen wrench set on the link.
I had an issue similar to the one you describe regarding the overheating. I changed the thermostat and impeller first. Someone suggested that my manifold was blocked. Since my manifolds are the dry joint ones (like yours), I didn't want to replace it because the life expectancy on these are great (my boat is a 2005 and still has original exhaust...my overheat problem happened around 2017). So what I did first was trace the hose on the bottom of the manifolds and traced them up to the thermostat housing. I removed the hose at the thermostat housing and inserted a standard water hose into the end of the hose running to the manifold and turned on the water faucet. I had someone standing at the outdrive and they said that all kids of dirty water and rust flakes came out. If you think about it, the water going out of the manifolds when the engine is running is not under any real pressure so high pressure from a water hose would help dislodge any debris in the manifold. I reassembled the manifold hoses, fired it up on earmuffs and my overheat problem was gone. Just something to try before blowing a ton of money. Thanks for posting this video.
Hi Keith! Brother thank you so much for this tip, this will help many other boater's avoid catastrophic failure on their engine. New video coming soon for the outcome of my boat engine problems. Brother, Thanks for watching our video! Peace from the Keys!
Hi, thanks for watching our video! I don't remember the size of allen socket, the set is inexpensive so we bought the set, the product link is in the description of this video. It ended after the new Manifolds were installed, went our on the water and it overheated to the point of cracked block. Catastrophic Failure, worse of all we can't find out what happened. Its either, the bravo-itis or internal blockage. I even thought mechanic sabotage. It was a difficult one for me. Thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Hi, Thanks for watching our video! We have never used gasket sealer on any of the manifold main gaskets, and it was not recommended by the manifold mfr instructions. It would also make it difficult to clean the block when you need to replace them 4 years later. We have never used it, and never had any problems. thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Excellent video. Great tip about cutting the heads off the riser bolts to use as alignment pins for installation of the manifold. I have a 2006 with original riser and manifolds, however the first 14 years were freshwater lake use. I now trailer so I'm flushing after use in saltwater. I noticed my temp rises if I am running WOT but if I am at cruise RPM (3100-3400) I am a steady 161-165 degrees. Before I go and spend 2k on a new exhaust I will try the flush using the hoses at T housing. Are you running Alpha or Bravo drives? I noticed my water pressure on my B3 drive is about 4psi at cruise. Just wondering what psi you have? Keys Boating - were those OEM parts or aftermarket?
Hi Robert, thanks for watching our video! 160 is the normal operating temperature for our engine, 165 is still good. Anything over 180 could be a problem. Descaling flush could help, but in my experience we had an internal blockage that caused the failure. We have a Bravo 3 outdrive, and don't have a water pressure gauge, which could be very important for these engines to have. Peace from the Keys!
Youve been dealing with overheating for a while now.... I remember you did the descaling and you tried replacing the thermostat before and now you're trying to do this salt away again aftee replacing exhaust ...is that accurate? How many hours is on the block? Was it a rebuild? I think 20 years in saltwater likely means "new engine" time unfortunately. That's what it meant for me...I just ordered a turnkey 5.7 from Michigan Motorz. My '92 kept overheating also ...I did everything you did...one day it hydro locked and I said screw it.
Hi, thanks for watching our video and your comment. The overheating part is gone after the manifolds and risers were changed. Now we only have the stalling. Our engine block is only 4 years old. We have determined that it could be my Fuel pump at the port side, its the one inside a plastic box. Its located in a very bad location to get to, and its the only pump that's 20 years old factory original. Since we are going to replace it, we will also replace the regulator, and fuel cooler. Let's see I'll keep you updated on the next video. Thanks for asking! Peace from the Keys!
Hi Glen, thanks for watching our video! It ended after the new Manifolds were installed, went our on the water and it overheated to the point of cracked block. Catastrophic Failure, worse of all we can't find out what happened. Its either, the bravo-itis or internal blockage. I even thought mechanic sabotage. It was a difficult one for me. Thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Hi, thanks for watching our video! Tools and supplies are from Amazon, see links in the description of this video. The manifold set we bought from Ebay. Peace from the Keys!
That was a good video of how to change everything. But I see what the problem was. The valve on the first riser was stuck as you know. That shut off the water. So you changed a thousand dollars in parts for a few dollar valve that could’ve been done three months ago and save you so much money from the parts and mechanic to come troubleshoot it. Good video , just saying. 👍
Hi, never done one here. But go to Facebook, there are groups for almost any merc, engine size. Maybe there you will find the info you need. Search for Groups Mercruiser 260 owners. Hope this helps! Peace from the Keys!
Also for the plugs being so tight , that sucks you went all the way with them. Great for you though that it didn’t crack the case. Pipe threads are tapered. So making them so tight , it’s like screwing a wedge in there. Don’t do that on a water pump. It will never stop dripping. Cracked case. Cast iron cases is hard , but very brittle. All coming from a pipe fitter / pipe welder , and rebuild engines. Lol. With a boat.
I see the use of aftermarket parts. I know they are cheap but they will not last very long in salt water. About half the life of a MerCruiser genuine part. Hate to see all that work for parts that will not last long.
Extremely well put together DIY manifold and riser change out. Now I understand what dry joint manifolds and risers are. The blockage must be inside the manifolds. Work was expertly done. Should be the go to video for this job going forward. Glad to hear you had no overheat alarms going off. I guess the next thing is stalking hesitation issue. Check the anti syphon valve and fuel pick up tube in the fuel tank.
Hi Mark! Hope you are doing well. Brother, thanks so much for watching and your comment. Yes, finally, no more overheating. I'll be checking those items you mentioned next. Bro, thanks again for your help and support. Peace from the Keys!
Thanks for an excellent tutorial on the R and R of the risers and manifolds. I wonder if that check ball was the major contributor of your overheating. If I run into this, I might check that first to make sure it is free and rattling. The manifold guide bolts you made were BRILLIANT!
Hi Michael, hope you had an awesome Thanksgiving. Either a blockage or the valve...but the valve is the only thing I found that may be the overheating problem. Brother, thanks for your comment and support! Peace from the Keys!
great video thanks
@@Charlie_Waffles83 You're welcome! Thanks for watching our video! Peace from the Keys!
In salt water the manifold plug up at the bottom. Need the flush the cooling system with fresh water. Look at the holes after removing the check valve and brass plugs you’ll see the corrosion block. 3 years is the max for exhaust manifold. You need to install a closed cooling kit to keep this from happening. Then the only you will need to maintain is the exhaust elbow. If you flush after each use that will lengthen the life of these components in the cooling system. Sterndrive and inboard engines in salt water closed cooling is a must.
Great information that will help others. Thanks for the information! Closed cooling for sure is important in saltwater use. Thanks again! Peace from the Keys!
When applying Teflon tape it is imperative that you apply the thread in the same direction as the threads to tighten. You put the tape on backwards so when threading it in the tape is dislodged and doesn't provide the same level of sealing.
Awesome instructional brother! Overheating issue taken care of!
I suspect that hesitating has to do with some connection somewhere. I know you replaced the harness. Wondering if there could be a short somewhere 🤔 either way, one step closer! 🤙
Thanks so much Brother. Yes, I'm working with the next thing in line. But at least no overheating, lets see where it takes us. Have a great weekend! Peace from the Keys!
very detailed and informative 👍👍
Hi Ruby! Thanks so much for watching! Blessings! Peace from the Keys!
great video! I changed mine twice already and wish I would have know the trick with the cut bolts 😀. Just to mention it, but I think to tighten the bolts you are supposed to use a torque wrench. My spec (V6) is calling out for 22 ft/lbs in two steps (11/22)
It does call for a torque wrench. But it’s not a head gasket , so it’s not critical.
Great job! Good watch! I hope you get business from this. I think it was good to add that it took you roughly 5 hours to do this job not including the sea trail.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting on our video! Thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Did i miss you checking the risers for blockages? That is often the cause of overheating.
Thanks a lot for your video. Do you remember the size of the HEX Plugs on manifold? maybe 1/2´´?
Hi Rafael, Thanks for watching our video! I don't remember the size, but here's the link to the set I used: 12 PCS Allen Socket Set: amzn.to/3SLFHbE Peace from the Keys!
For the big plug I used the end of our ratchet, don't remember the size it might be 1/2" it fits perfectly, for the small plugs I used the allen wrench set on the link.
I had an issue similar to the one you describe regarding the overheating. I changed the thermostat and impeller first. Someone suggested that my manifold was blocked. Since my manifolds are the dry joint ones (like yours), I didn't want to replace it because the life expectancy on these are great (my boat is a 2005 and still has original exhaust...my overheat problem happened around 2017). So what I did first was trace the hose on the bottom of the manifolds and traced them up to the thermostat housing. I removed the hose at the thermostat housing and inserted a standard water hose into the end of the hose running to the manifold and turned on the water faucet. I had someone standing at the outdrive and they said that all kids of dirty water and rust flakes came out. If you think about it, the water going out of the manifolds when the engine is running is not under any real pressure so high pressure from a water hose would help dislodge any debris in the manifold. I reassembled the manifold hoses, fired it up on earmuffs and my overheat problem was gone. Just something to try before blowing a ton of money. Thanks for posting this video.
Hi Keith! Brother thank you so much for this tip, this will help many other boater's avoid catastrophic failure on their engine. New video coming soon for the outcome of my boat engine problems. Brother, Thanks for watching our video! Peace from the Keys!
Awesome congratulations 🎉
Thank you so much 😀 Bro! Sandbar is calling!!! Lol.
What size is the allen socket for the plugs? Also did you find why it was overheating?
Hi, thanks for watching our video! I don't remember the size of allen socket, the set is inexpensive so we bought the set, the product link is in the description of this video. It ended after the new Manifolds were installed, went our on the water and it overheated to the point of cracked block. Catastrophic Failure, worse of all we can't find out what happened. Its either, the bravo-itis or internal blockage. I even thought mechanic sabotage. It was a difficult one for me. Thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Happy im in freshwater. I had overheat though from pickup pump in the outdrive
Thanks Justin! In freshwater the manifolds will last longer...and yes, the impeller has to be replaced as recommended by mfr specs. Thanks.
Great video. Out of curiousity, why didn't you use gasket sealer (Permatex) on manifold gasket?
Hi, Thanks for watching our video! We have never used gasket sealer on any of the manifold main gaskets, and it was not recommended by the manifold mfr instructions. It would also make it difficult to clean the block when you need to replace them 4 years later. We have never used it, and never had any problems. thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Excellent video. Great tip about cutting the heads off the riser bolts to use as alignment pins for installation of the manifold. I have a 2006 with original riser and manifolds, however the first 14 years were freshwater lake use. I now trailer so I'm flushing after use in saltwater. I noticed my temp rises if I am running WOT but if I am at cruise RPM (3100-3400) I am a steady 161-165 degrees.
Before I go and spend 2k on a new exhaust I will try the flush using the hoses at T housing.
Are you running Alpha or Bravo drives? I noticed my water pressure on my B3 drive is about 4psi at cruise. Just wondering what psi you have?
Keys Boating - were those OEM parts or aftermarket?
Hi Robert, thanks for watching our video! 160 is the normal operating temperature for our engine, 165 is still good. Anything over 180 could be a problem. Descaling flush could help, but in my experience we had an internal blockage that caused the failure. We have a Bravo 3 outdrive, and don't have a water pressure gauge, which could be very important for these engines to have. Peace from the Keys!
Good job captain
Thanks!!! Blessings! Peace from the Keys!
Some of these bolts need to be torqued to specifications?
Youve been dealing with overheating for a while now.... I remember you did the descaling and you tried replacing the thermostat before and now you're trying to do this salt away again aftee replacing exhaust ...is that accurate?
How many hours is on the block? Was it a rebuild? I think 20 years in saltwater likely means "new engine" time unfortunately.
That's what it meant for me...I just ordered a turnkey 5.7 from Michigan Motorz. My '92 kept overheating also ...I did everything you did...one day it hydro locked and I said screw it.
Hi, thanks for watching our video and your comment. The overheating part is gone after the manifolds and risers were changed. Now we only have the stalling. Our engine block is only 4 years old. We have determined that it could be my Fuel pump at the port side, its the one inside a plastic box. Its located in a very bad location to get to, and its the only pump that's 20 years old factory original. Since we are going to replace it, we will also replace the regulator, and fuel cooler. Let's see I'll keep you updated on the next video. Thanks for asking! Peace from the Keys!
So the check valve was the issue ?
Hi Glen, thanks for watching our video! It ended after the new Manifolds were installed, went our on the water and it overheated to the point of cracked block. Catastrophic Failure, worse of all we can't find out what happened. Its either, the bravo-itis or internal blockage. I even thought mechanic sabotage. It was a difficult one for me. Thanks! Peace from the Keys!
Where did you purchase from.
Hi, thanks for watching our video! Tools and supplies are from Amazon, see links in the description of this video. The manifold set we bought from Ebay. Peace from the Keys!
That was a good video of how to change everything.
But I see what the problem was.
The valve on the first riser was stuck as you know. That shut off the water.
So you changed a thousand dollars in parts for a few dollar valve that could’ve been done three months ago and save you so much money from the parts and mechanic to come troubleshoot it.
Good video , just saying. 👍
Good advice is always welcome! Thanks Bro!
anyone have used merc 260 marine Y joint manifolds and risers? I need to rebuild a saltwater system.
Hi, never done one here. But go to Facebook, there are groups for almost any merc, engine size. Maybe there you will find the info you need. Search for Groups Mercruiser 260 owners. Hope this helps! Peace from the Keys!
Install a closed cooling system and cool the manifold with antifreeze
I just installed one on my engine
Hi, thanks for watching our video! Sounds like it even would last longer with coolant. Thanks for your comment! Peace from the Keys!
Also for the plugs being so tight , that sucks you went all the way with them. Great for you though that it didn’t crack the case.
Pipe threads are tapered. So making them so tight , it’s like screwing a wedge in there.
Don’t do that on a water pump. It will never stop dripping. Cracked case. Cast iron cases is hard , but very brittle.
All coming from a pipe fitter / pipe welder , and rebuild engines. Lol. With a boat.
Hi Eric! Thanks for watching our video! Great information to know, this will help others to avoid a problem. Thanks brother! Peace from the Keys!
✌🏼from Northern Maine. 🏔🎣
Welcome!!!
I see the use of aftermarket parts. I know they are cheap but they will not last very long in salt water. About half the life of a MerCruiser genuine part. Hate to see all that work for parts that will not last long.
Hi Steve, Yes, we also recommend using Original Mercruiser Parts. Thanks for watching and commenting! Peace from the Keys!