Learning To TIG Weld, Making A Custom Exhaust System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2024
- come with me on my journey on learning to tig weld, and there's no better time to build a custom 3 inch exhaust on my metro turbo.
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Hey man, your video came up on my feed randomly and I thought I’d offer some welding advice.
With those pie cuts, as long as there’s zero gaps, you should be able to tack (and weld for that matter) them up without any filler rod. It looks like the normal 1.6mm wall tube typical to process piping, dairy piping etc. For that material thickness your current will be about 35-40amps, especially without backpurging. While tacking, set the welder on no upslope or downslope, and the post flow to about 4 seconds.
With that cup you’ve got, you’d expect to set the regulator to about 10L per min (it sounds like it’s flowing a bit much from here) otherwise you get turbulence and you start drawing air in to the envelope of gas, resulting in oxides in the pool.
Every time you stab the tungsten or contaminate it, sharpen it.
Keep the filler wire near the pool, and keep it in the gas envelope until the post flow stops. Taking the filler out of the gas envelope and putting it back in to the pool when it’s hot introduces oxides in to the pool which upsets the weld. 1.2mm thick filler is ideal for exhaust tubing.
Try a #12 cup and accompanying gas lens. You can stick the tungsten out a bit more with that setup which will help you see what’s going on with the pool a bit more. It requires more gas flow though.
Get comfortable and practice, practice, practice.
Sorry to ramble- hope that helps.
Choice one bro. Good on you.
Thankyou for the advice, I'm going to put your suggestions to practice and hopefully a second video to follow.
Good on you cuzz, giving it a go like a boss.
Suggestion. Get decent with welding coupons/scrap metal before attempting on the real part. Expensive way to learn. If you ever see sparks while TIG welding something is wrong, you dipped your tungsten or bad contaminant in the metal. Love how you just dove into it! All that nasty stuff on the inside of the pipe is the weld getting contaminated with oxygen, when welding stainless pipe you need to back purge otherwise you will get cracking and not sufficient penetration w/contaminant. Welding stainless everything has to be clean or don't even start. Those parts ned to be wiped down with acetone along with your filler rod. ANY time you dip you tungsten or it becomes contaminated you must clean it.
The welds you showed are too cold, you need more amperage, id say at least 10 more amps and you need to move a bit quicker once the puddle starts. You want to keep as much heat as possible out of the metal so higher amps at a faster speed would help a lot. Less filler rod as well, you don't need that much, let the puddle wick the rod and keep it moving don't sit around. Best of luck man!
Man goood on you for that great advise.
Thanks for the advice, I'm putting all advice to practice and will update with a second video soon, I've also ordered some practice tokens.
I think it's mild steel and the vband is a cheap Chinese shit! In sound like you have too much gas flow should be 20 cfh of flow. Get rid of the shit eBay cups and get a furik jazzy 10 or fupa 12 will help with the turbulence that is greying your welds...
Thought the v bands were stainless but they seem to have coating on them.
I'm using about 10lpm gas on a no.10 gas lens. Thanks for the recommendation, I will have a look.
@@gregoryelgood no prob I always support anyone who gets into welding the industry is dying.