Great video and explanations. However I must emphasize that the the 1001 error DOES NOT automatically indicate an issue with the NecTokins. You risk creating another myth this way... These errors can happen from improper shutdown. Sometimes even from force quitting out of a game. So the first two consoles didn't necessarily need the tokins swapped... The third one definitely didn't have bad tokins on the Cell side. The fewer the 1001s , the less likely Cell's tokins are at fault. But even abundance of 1001s may not always mean they are bad, since we don't know how the console was used. Also keep in mind the timestamps of the errors are not always accurate either.
When you say " the first two consoles didn't necessarily need the tokins swapped" do you mean that the cell side doesn't need replacement? because the second console has full of 1002 which means it needs tokins swapped for the rsx side. Genuine question, I'm a complete noob.
Also, they not need a reflow. New research suggests that its the solder bumps on the die, not the prossesser. So to fix it, it would need a new gpu, or with a little extra modding, you can install a VERY reliable 40nm RSX from a slim ps3
That's indeed true. I wish I could do the RSX swap mod one day. But the skill required for the RSX swap is similar to a reball. So I still need to practice my reballing skill first. Thanks for the comment!
At op is it possible just as confirmation is why am asking.. to do the 28nm for extra longevity from being an even newer chip for the ps3? For all ps3 systems wether retail or demo/test/tool hardware to interchange the chips and then repaste but not do anything else? Also if possible can it be dkne even after the ylod is encountered or is it a must be done for preventing it from the getgo ideally on an unopened prior by anybody else eg new old stock ps3?
@@bsanchez3563 no. The 28nm is not pin compatible with other RSXs. Repasting is a good idea in general, and should be done anyway. It’s recommended to wait until you have a problem with the system to change out anything. You shouldn’t want to replace components unless your having issues
@@TheGlitchyMario that makes sense... plus fewer times taking it apart wiithout already having a need is probably a good safe bet if it is not subjected to cnfined space use/nor more or less dusty environmental conditions or for use if close to the floor etc
10:36 I also tried to remove the defective capacitors. In doing so, I destroyed the components on top and lost them. I'm probably too clumsy to solder.
Thanks for the PS3 knowledge! 😁 Here's a few soldering tips! Use a ton more flux, you're making yourself work way too much for no reasons because of that. If you either solder or desolder, the board needs flux, you'll see a big difference, with the wicking part to remove solder too. The wick will literally attract the solder when flux is present. When you're done, use Isopropyl Alcohol (ideally 99%, the higher the better for pcb because it contains less water) with cotton swabs all over where you see remaining flux. Make sure to use "No clean" flux too, the other type is corrosive and can't be left on the board at all, so missing places with the swabs and Isopropyl Alcohol isn't going to be a problem😄 You probably/may know most of that but I prefer to share just in case!
According to RIP Felix the only consoles which have known bad chips are the CECH-A,B,C,E,G and H models as they all have the 90nm RSX, any console with a 65nm or 40nm should not have known bad chips, however the 65s probably should be delidded at some point to lower the temps further
I am impressed with this video and clear explanation. Well done. It is advisable to use plenty of flux with the solder wick to prevent it from getting stuck and bigger tips if possible. Thank you for sharing.
PS3 #1 you didnt try to reset to default display settings before you tore it down. I had a similar problem on the PS3 I just bought. I did the reset procedure and it worked in 5 min. I know it ultimately wasnt that but you should always try easy fixes first. In the end, amazing video I learned a lot.
Now that you mentioned, I indeed forgot to reset it in the first place. Sometimes we simply overlook the simpler solutions. Will definitely bear this in mind in the future!
I’ve been watching videos like this for quite some time, and this is the first time that I have actually seen someone be able to hook up their PlayStation to their computer to find out exactly what the errors are! I need to teach myself how to do this myself, and will be saving this video in my ever-growing library of videos, to teach myself how to fix consuls myself! I am also subscribing to your channel! Thank you!
Thank you for the sub! I would like to let you know that I didn't have any repair experience piror to this. My YLOD PS3 was the main motivation for me to learn console repair and SMD soldering. It took me around 10 months of practice and experimenting to have the level as shown in the video. So I believe you would be able to do it too given enough time!
@@hardwarerepair200 thank you for the reply! Sadly, I kind of forgot about all of this, and I am thankful that you said something. I actually went through the time of collecting the PCBs and wiring so that I can do this and then walk away from it. I have several ylod collector PS3 Fatts, that I want to see if I can get up and running! I do have one question though. After watching a video about how the GPU is bad on all of the fat PS3 consuls, what are the chances of properly getting a fat PS3 up and running long-term? After seeing a video on the Frankenstein PS3, where they pull the GPU from a slim and put it on a fat, all the research that I have done so far points to that is the only way to get it backwards, compatible PS3 up and running permanently. Have you seen anything that would prove me wrong? I don’t want to delete a GPU to fail.
was looking up the 60gb ps3 problems and came across a few tubers, gave them a view and your one of them, i like you :) you remind me alot of a friend of mine, simple tone and easy to understand :)
Nicely done video. I wanted to move to PS3's eventually and very likely do RSX swaps, so it was great to see what I'd be up against and the software I'd use. I started my soldering journey small and very soon got into 360's. Then I got into reballing. Got pretty good at it imo, but my equipment limited me to southbridges. GPUs were a struggle, and never had a successful CPU pull. I'm currently focusing on repairing/restoring original Xbox's. 7 completed, 2 waiting on parts, 1 waiting for repair. By the way, spatula soldering tips are amazing for BGA and more. If some large component on a massive ground plane is giving me attitude, just stick in the spatula tip, crank the temperature and let it eat. Nothing has stood a chance against it. Interesting watching the soldering station fight with the ground plane as it maintains the tips temperature - even if the ground plane always loses. Also, how come you're using that size nozzle for the Tokins? I'd think no nozzle would be best.
I am glad that you enjoy this video. My current soldering station does not support spatula tips, so I have ordered a new soldering station that supports it. Still waiting for it to arrive due to Lunar New Year in China. Anyhow, thanks for the tips, I am relatively new to soldering and still learning which tip or which nozzle to use for different situations.
Nice video! Watching Tronicsfix and others is fun, but watching you is closer to what I would be up against if I tried to fix something. Looking forward to more videos like this!
Thanks for watching, I am a big fan of Tronicsfix myself too. He inspired me to do repair like this. But it is true that doing a repair yourself is a totally different experience than watching other people doing it. Everything seems so easy when watching, but it is way more difficult when you actually do it.
Hiya, absolutely love these videos on how your restoring these systems. Love on you showing the Syscon side of things and how your planning on going through repairing them. However I must protest that reballing wont fix your problem, its a fancy way of reflowing the chips and for the problem to re-occur. The problem is mostly the BGA connection... its the solder balls which connect the bumps within the die of the GPU and its green substrate, due to poor manufacturing in the material silicon which protects the dies connection to the substrate. Meaning the only way of fixing the problem indefinitely is investing doing a complete GPU swap to a 40nm GPU. I paid money when I was younger to have my old 60GB Compatible PS3 to be reballed, problem re-occur the next day. However though its a great method to keep them running, but its all pending on the state of the GPU. 😢 I am luckiy getting my PS3 Frankensteined with a 40mn GPU soon though! 🙂
Nice vid! I’ve had this problem and tried soldering new capacitors. Unfortunately it didn’t work. Didn’t check syscon though. I’ve heard that even with new capacitors it’s not a permanent fix, such a beautiful machine deemed to fail
Out of the four consoles I show in the video, three of them need a RSX reball/swap, and three of them need to change the capacitor. So it is true that the early models have so many failing points.
@@hardwarerepair200 that’s a shame! ;( I really like the story behind the first PS3 console. And personally, my favorite is the launch 60gb console. I would totally overpay for one of these in working condition.
@@matheust.5388 It is indeed a shame. To me, the launch version of PS3 is an engineering masterpiece. It is the the last console by SONY that try to add fully backward compatibility to all previous generations. But I believe SONY consider the launch version as a failure because of the high production cost. As a result, the father of PS3, Ken Kutaragi had to resign because of the poor revenue that it generates.
It should be for about at least around half of the time just a mere need for a 65 or even 45nm chip from a newer ps3 to replace the cell broadband engine and rsx chips in the ylod fwiw as the underfill is the cause so basically check the rip felix video on youtube from this year as l9ng as it is by the end it made sense but I had to watch it in 2 seperate chunks but also I may have been only able to fully reaize what was explained in that video by watching it over a secondtime the next day as it was before bed the prior might so I was not as able to fully think etc... but yeah
Thank you for watching! I want more people to know the proper repair which is "diagnosis (SYSCON) --> repair". Instead of blinding seeking for the "ultimate fix" or "permanent fix" without even checking the real cause of YLOD.
@@cybcarr Thanks for watching. Yes, it is still working. I have a new video for it and upgraded its blu-ray drive. th-cam.com/video/SweckPS7d-g/w-d-xo.html
Since you already have the lower heater plate, you can easily make a Top heating element. What you need, 1) 400-600W Ceramic Heater 2) REX-C100 PID controller 3) DIY a holder/tripod using scrap metal Would only cost you less than $50 since you already have the bottom plate.
@@oliviavalentine5294 I did see your link just now. Or let me help you to post your link so that other people can also see it? th-cam.com/video/ouHsF4tNhk0/w-d-xo.html Can you see the link?
If you do a lot of this, the old panasonic 2.4 volt screw drivers are awesome. They used NICD but I modded mine to NIMH. they use 2 sub c cells. I modded the charger by removing all internals and just bringing out the two wires to banana connectors to use my hobby charger with them. The tenergy 5000 was a ridiculous amount of power that gave me way more torque and lasted forever on a charge.
Don't give up, practice makes perfect. I don't have any soldering experience piror to this either. When I made this video, I was only around 10 months into soldering. To be honest, many people commented that I am using the worng/cheap tools. I am also learning from the comments that what tools to use.
Hello community! I have a problem with my PS3 which I made a Nektokins change for the YLOD, but now when I turn it on it stays green (without showing an image) And without giving an image or anything, then it just turns off showing a yellow light, I don't know the problem and unfortunately I can't afford to buy a TTL reader to read the Syscon of the console :(, I wanted to know if this has happened to anyone and what you recommend I do (it should be noted that the capacitors I bought are completely new, and that I never did a Reballing on the console, Although I did remove the IHS from the RSX and the CELL to change the thermal paste, since I have heard that sometimes the YLOD error is repaired this way) Thank you in advance for reading this, I hope you can help me :(
The heat might fixed it. If you wanna mask this parameter, you could rip the capacitors and solder wires with low melting solder, connected to capacitor array board.
Brother do you repair them? I have a 60gb fat ps3 that is reading ps1 ps3 but is not reading ps2 silver disc and dvds any tips? Or I can pay you to repair it for me?
I've been fixing consoles smartphones boards for over 5 years now and I have never seen someone going into debugging system errors on a board like JTAG .. It takes a Japanese person to WOW ME and dude you just WOWED the hell out of me! What an incredible approach, got me subscribed to your channel!
I really hope that your channel blows up, the content is great, and I hope you succeed with your BGA reballing attempt at home. Looking forward to new content.
@@hardwarerepair200 BTW When you test consoles after repair, you should power cycle them. Let them get hot and then cool down all the way. This eliminates fake fixes due to thermomechanical stress.
What do you mean jumper the capacitors? Bridge the two positive terminals? He did do that with the NEC tokin caps he didn't take out from the other side
Thank you for explaining for me. Yes, I keep the NEC caps on the other side as the bridge. But as @ripfelix3020 mentioned, having two different types of capactors together might be harmful too. He has another solution called Tantalizer. It is the best replacement for NEC caps in my opinion. oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
É preciso ter cuidado com esse procedimento, há uma boa chance de prejudicar os túneis que interligam as faces da placa.
People make the screw sound intimidating. It’s a Torx T8 or T10 security screw. They come in most repair kits, Ex: iFixit, but Walmart sells a cheaper one. It’s not normal Torx, it’s a security screw. They’re really easy to come across is what I’m saying
I suggest getting Chemtronics Chem-Wik wicks if you haven't because I had wicks similar to what you use and they'd always unbraid and the rosin would burn real bad. Makes it way less annoying and cleans up nicely!
Very good work. I sent my ps3 to reball or check if it's the nec tokens. It gives ylod on some games. Doesn't overheat. It's weird that I can play ratchet for 2h and gt6 gives ylod after getting in a race. I did make error dump with ps3 advance tools but the date in the errors shows 2008 despite the date in the console is right. Anyway errors point to rsx
I am not sure in Germany, but in Japan, there are a lot of shops selling used items. The shops for selling used game items are mostly in Akihabara. I have made an video about finding used consoles in Akihabara before. th-cam.com/video/Ayq7LYPQ4Pc/w-d-xo.html I hope you could find nice used electronics in Germany too!
Low ESR capacitors should be used. Ceramic capacitors usually have a very high ESR, so it is not better. If you are looking for a better solution, a combination of tantalum and ceramic can be used. Felix has designed a board for it, feel free to check it out oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
@@hardwarerepair200 I understand, thank you for the fast answer. Just I'm looking for more durability, this old hardware still worth cuz natively supports BC PS2 games, but faulty design.
@@hardwarerepair200 hi, i repeat and watch your vid couple of times. I just check the link and it has two model of capasitor, which model of capasitor should i choose or both can be use?
I had same issue.. After reballing HDMI port not working. Repair tech said HDMI port's IC chip is permanently damaged. Is it so?.. so now i have only AV port. Also i can see yellow light few times while turning on/off. What to do?.. I have CFW 4.88
Reballing never fixes the problem, only delays it from happening again. The best way to repair these is to use a 40nm RSX chip and modify syscon to recognize the new chip.
I had a 1601 a 1701 and a 3034 errors a bad rsx. I sent it to a former Sony tech in California to have a 40nm put on. That is what Sony was doing at the repair centers. Mine is a cecha01. I was told that it is not worth repairing if it is not a backward compatible model.
I purchased a ps3 launch model with the ylod problem in hoping it is the same issue as system #2 as the ylod light happens just as quickly waiting on my serial adapter to read the Syscon codes
Nice video. I have some constructive criticism however; one thing that kinda literally made my skin crawl was the fast forwarding sound of undoing screws.... might just be me but it's a type of sound akin to fingernails on a chalkboard....at least for me. Don't mean to be harsh.... just trying to help
Sorry to irritate you and thanks for pointing it out. I didn't know this, and I will be careful and probably lower the fast forwarding volume and cover it with some background music next time. Thanks for the constructive feedback!
Awesome. I'm trying to fix my PS3 with there ylod.. I want first to disassemble it.. then get the correct caps to make the swap. But.. you said only one side of the board need replacement?? I have also seen some guys use 4 caps instead 6. I guess that's is causes you achieve the correct uf with 3 each side??.. if I get the exact cap u are using I will go for 6 like you!!. Also any ideas on how to remove the tokins with out a heat gun?
Bake them in an oven using a guide as I can’t remember the temp you can’t exceed. I did this with my 40gb console and it worked again for about 6 months so that was better than nothing.
Yes! It is his video that inspired me to make this video! I really wish that I could do a RSX swap properly so that I can save the remaining three consoles! Thanks for watching and cheers!
Do you need to still add a bridge to PS3 #2? My worry is that the Tokins are going to heat up excessively because you've halved the current carrying capacity
Thanks for the comment. It is indeed an interesting aspect that I don't see many people asking about it. I haven't explored the heating issues for the Tokins. But if other people managed to bridge the positive terminals using only a few wires without any problems, Tokins would be a much better bridge than the wires. So I would say although the current carrying capacity is not as high as an untouched PS3 when half of the Tokins are removed, it is better than those methods where people removed all Tokins and add back a few wires as the bridge.
@@hardwarerepair200 I agree that it's definitely better. I should say that I did really enjoy your video and how you detailed the process. Your work is very clean too. Definitely watching your future vids!
Hello, great video. I have errors 1001 and 1004. Is it possible that my ps3 can be fixed by changing the nec tokin? Which should I change, those of the RSX or CPU? Thanks.
Are there only 1001 and 1004? If so, you can try replacing the NEC/TOKINs on the CPU side first. As some people pointed out in the comments, 1001 can be caused by reason other than the TOKINs. But hopefully in your case, you can fix it by just replacing the TOKINs on the CPU side.
First summer job at 15 was surface mount soldering Nortel telecommunication boards. I dunno why anybody would put this much time on fixing a fat PS3. Put the console in the microwave for a few minutes. Works every time. ;) Oh and forgot. Chuck that thing into a dumpster afterward and buy a functioning PS3 at a pawn shop for like $50.
Can anybody link me to good tools to de-solder and etc? I have a slim and a fat ps3 that I want to try saving, the fat most importantly since its been with me throughout my childhood
If you are new to soldering, I suggest you to practice on another broken console first. The first attempt is usually a failure, at least for me. That being said, the soldering station I was using in this video is Yiyua-8786d. It's an entry model, not very good. But it gets the job done.
LOL I was clearing out storage from mother's home, last couple days and yesterday found a box with 4 PS3 Phat that I got off a guy 6/7 years ago - so this vid perfect to work through them and hopefully get them working.. Edit* Is that TTL used to do a syscon check then? And where a good place to get one.. many thanks Great Vid Thanks !! Sub'd and Liked
For TTL, I simply bought it off Aliexpress. But there should be some on amazon too. Here's an example www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ft232rl&qid=1682558233&sr=8-4
Generally the tokins don't fail from heat those ground planes you drilled at are for heat disapation as you can see it works great and those caps have no chance of really over heating. The BGA is also not the issue nvidia pretty much confirmed at this point that the issue on those series of gpus was a issue with the flip chip design of the chip itself. It can be fixed with heat temporarily as most electronics can. The GPU needs to be replaced itself. All 90nm RSX are flawed and the 65NM are iffy. Once you get that rework station up you should look into frankenstiening the ones with faulty gpus. Reference: th-cam.com/video/Za7WTNwAX0c/w-d-xo.html
Why do you never talk about delidding the CPU? I had this problem. Because thermal paste between the heat spreader and cpu die was dried up and nog giving correct contact -> overheating.
The true fix is replacing the faulty RSX or modding it with a 40nm RSX. Maybe a reball at times can be the fix aswell but why flip a chip when you can replace it. Tokins work just fine.
True fix is just to get a CECH-21xx or 25xx model. They still have CFW support, 40nm RSX, 45nm Cell, no Tokin/NEC caps and excellent PS2 software emulation, capable of running 75-80% of the entire library flawlessly. I wish I had gotten that instead of my CECHA00, I'm afraid it will fail at some point. It was delid and I use Webman mod to increase the fan speed but I still would feel much safer with a 21xx.
@@Manic_Panic Really, a PS3 Slim can emulate the PS2’s entire library, that’s pretty cool. I still prefer the original 60gb PS3. Nothing beats original hardware. Even if yours fails you can just order a 40nm RSX from Ali Express or eBay and get it replaced by a professional along with leaded solder. It may cost some dough, but it will future proof your A01. I still have my A01, dellided with free new Aeronaught Paste with Thermal Right Thermal Pad and it runs a lot cooler but would love to replace the 90nm RSX with a 40NM someday along with Liquid Metal. I also made the mistake of replacing the fully working Tokins with Tantalums. Tokins rarely ever fail, so it mostly a waste of time and effort to replace them. I will end going over it again with the Tantaliser kit. Another system i’m worried about is my PSX DVR.
demm, i thought only #3 and #4 are easy to fix with only tantalums since they initially had longer green to ylod time. guess I'm wrong. yeah, reballing job is PITA
My brother still has his original backwards compatible ps3 boxed since he bought it new back in the day, he has taken it out now again but was not a fan as much as ps1 and 2 which he loved, shame really.
The launch model of PS3 is awesome! I grew up with PS1 and PS2, so I love the launch model since it allows me to play all my childhood games with only one console.
It actually depends on the model. Early models show only the red light. But later models show both red and green light at the same time, which appears to be yellow to human eyes. But both of them represent the same thing (with 3 beeps), general hardware failure.
So my ps3 problem is that it turns on for a while but doesn’t show up on tv After a minute red light beeps all the time But one day i tried to open it by holding power button it goes to the checking file system menu its was giving sign of working But again i got rlod same problem What to do with it i am very sad can you plz tell me what should i do Btw its my second ps3 My 1st ps3 got ylod problem while jailbreaking
Good question! My approach is to keep as many NEC/TOKINs there as possible since they act as a bridge even if they go bad. The extra capacitors are to account for possibly nonfunctioning NEC/TOKINs that are still on the motherboard. According to my experience, 6 capacitors are enough to handle two failed NEC/TOKINs. I know for other people, when one NEC/TOKINs fails, they remove all NEC/TOKINs and replace each with 4 caps. But in that case, you need to add a bridge yourself. If the bridge is too thin, it will burn out really quickly. If the bridge is too thick, you risk shorting it with other places. A console with all NEC/TOKINs removed seldom last longer than 2 weeks (at least according to my experience). That's why I tried keeping as many NEC/TOKINs as I can and at the same time squeezing as many replacements as I can in one slot. So far non of them have any problems. But as I mentioned in the video, this fix only works when you see syscon errors 1001 or 1002. If you see 3034, replacing the caps won't fix your console.
@@hardwarerepair200 understood, was asking since the majority of the guides/videos i see around the web they all do the mats for 1200uf and 3 tantalums are enough for that. Regarding the bridges some say if you leave only one tokin even on the otherside of the board they will act as bridge anyway. Never tried it though, i have only replaced 2 tokins once and it worked so left it like that.
That's awesome! I didn't know that, got to find a chance to try it. Do you know what is the function of the six 0805 Multi Layered Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) on this board? It is mentioned in the description on the product page, but there is no explanation on the functions of the MLCC. oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
@@hardwarerepair200 "You do not need to buy the MLCC capacitors. The 470uF capacitors are enough on their own. However, the MLCC capacitors help to attenuate the higher frequency noise component up to around 2MHz, better mimicking the NEC/TOKIN proadlizer it's meant to replace. This is probably overkill on PS3's with 1000uF tokins. I still recommend using 470uF caps, because 3x 330uF is only 990uF and may not be enough. It's better to have more capacitance than less, but not too much more. The MLCCs are more needed on 90nm CPU/GPU early models (A-H). They have noisier switching VRM and higher load, which requires more decoupling than later models. Use them if your tokins are OE128 models. You probably don't need them otherwise." This is what I found on psx-place. Rip-felix posted a thread announcing the tantalizer boards. I don't know if I can post links, but I'll try in my next comment.
But tbh, I really liked the way you exposed more of the ground plane and was able to solder the caps on straight. First time I've seen it! 👌 Your method is probably just as easy as using the tantalizer.
Great video and explanations. However I must emphasize that the the 1001 error DOES NOT automatically indicate an issue with the NecTokins. You risk creating another myth this way... These errors can happen from improper shutdown. Sometimes even from force quitting out of a game. So the first two consoles didn't necessarily need the tokins swapped... The third one definitely didn't have bad tokins on the Cell side. The fewer the 1001s , the less likely Cell's tokins are at fault. But even abundance of 1001s may not always mean they are bad, since we don't know how the console was used. Also keep in mind the timestamps of the errors are not always accurate either.
When you mean force quitting, do you mean through the xmb (holding ps button)? Or ejecting disc only
@@ElPsyKongroo I haven't tested it personally, I heard it from a person who has developed the syscon script. I think he meant ps button.
When you say " the first two consoles didn't necessarily need the tokins swapped" do you mean that the cell side doesn't need replacement? because the second console has full of 1002 which means it needs tokins swapped for the rsx side. Genuine question, I'm a complete noob.
@@hybs9473 lol hehe same ngl
@@ElPsyKongroo I think what he means was force shutdown or quit the game by holding the PS Button so yeah. You're partially correct.
Also, they not need a reflow. New research suggests that its the solder bumps on the die, not the prossesser. So to fix it, it would need a new gpu, or with a little extra modding, you can install a VERY reliable 40nm RSX from a slim ps3
That's indeed true. I wish I could do the RSX swap mod one day. But the skill required for the RSX swap is similar to a reball. So I still need to practice my reballing skill first. Thanks for the comment!
At op is it possible just as confirmation is why am asking.. to do the 28nm for extra longevity from being an even newer chip for the ps3? For all ps3 systems wether retail or demo/test/tool hardware to interchange the chips and then repaste but not do anything else? Also if possible can it be dkne even after the ylod is encountered or is it a must be done for preventing it from the getgo ideally on an unopened prior by anybody else eg new old stock ps3?
@@bsanchez3563 no. The 28nm is not pin compatible with other RSXs. Repasting is a good idea in general, and should be done anyway. It’s recommended to wait until you have a problem with the system to change out anything. You shouldn’t want to replace components unless your having issues
@@TheGlitchyMario that makes sense... plus fewer times taking it apart wiithout already having a need is probably a good safe bet if it is not subjected to cnfined space use/nor more or less dusty environmental conditions or for use if close to the floor etc
Can you place the 40 nm without a special formware software to work. Will the system understands it the moment you install, turn on and go?
10:36 I also tried to remove the defective capacitors. In doing so, I destroyed the components on top and lost them. I'm probably too clumsy to solder.
Thanks for the PS3 knowledge! 😁
Here's a few soldering tips!
Use a ton more flux, you're making yourself work way too much for no reasons because of that. If you either solder or desolder, the board needs flux, you'll see a big difference, with the wicking part to remove solder too.
The wick will literally attract the solder when flux is present.
When you're done, use Isopropyl Alcohol (ideally 99%, the higher the better for pcb because it contains less water) with cotton swabs all over where you see remaining flux. Make sure to use "No clean" flux too, the other type is corrosive and can't be left on the board at all, so missing places with the swabs and Isopropyl Alcohol isn't going to be a problem😄
You probably/may know most of that but I prefer to share just in case!
Thanks for the tips! I will bear it in mind and do it better next time.
This has got to be one of the best PS3-centric repair videos I've ever seen. Well done! Subscribed and hoping to see more like this in the future!
Thanks for the sub!
@@hardwarerepair200 same subbed for this
According to RIP Felix the only consoles which have known bad chips are the CECH-A,B,C,E,G and H models as they all have the 90nm RSX, any console with a 65nm or 40nm should not have known bad chips, however the 65s probably should be delidded at some point to lower the temps further
I am impressed with this video and clear explanation. Well done. It is advisable to use plenty of flux with the solder wick to prevent it from getting stuck and bigger tips if possible. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the suggestions! I will try a bigger tip next time.
not possible bro just tell me the temptin hum capacitor value and volt
@@zkmaxxxxx The capacitors I used in this video is 2R5TPE470M9
PS3 #1 you didnt try to reset to default display settings before you tore it down. I had a similar problem on the PS3 I just bought. I did the reset procedure and it worked in 5 min. I know it ultimately wasnt that but you should always try easy fixes first. In the end, amazing video I learned a lot.
Now that you mentioned, I indeed forgot to reset it in the first place. Sometimes we simply overlook the simpler solutions.
Will definitely bear this in mind in the future!
Yep I was screaming when watching the video :)
I’ve been watching videos like this for quite some time, and this is the first time that I have actually seen someone be able to hook up their PlayStation to their computer to find out exactly what the errors are! I need to teach myself how to do this myself, and will be saving this video in my ever-growing library of videos, to teach myself how to fix consuls myself!
I am also subscribing to your channel! Thank you!
Thank you for the sub!
I would like to let you know that I didn't have any repair experience piror to this.
My YLOD PS3 was the main motivation for me to learn console repair and SMD soldering.
It took me around 10 months of practice and experimenting to have the level as shown in the video.
So I believe you would be able to do it too given enough time!
@@hardwarerepair200 thank you for the reply! Sadly, I kind of forgot about all of this, and I am thankful that you said something. I actually went through the time of collecting the PCBs and wiring so that I can do this and then walk away from it.
I have several ylod collector PS3 Fatts, that I want to see if I can get up and running!
I do have one question though. After watching a video about how the GPU is bad on all of the fat PS3 consuls, what are the chances of properly getting a fat PS3 up and running long-term? After seeing a video on the Frankenstein PS3, where they pull the GPU from a slim and put it on a fat, all the research that I have done so far points to that is the only way to get it backwards, compatible PS3 up and running permanently.
Have you seen anything that would prove me wrong? I don’t want to delete a GPU to fail.
was looking up the 60gb ps3 problems and came across a few tubers, gave them a view and your one of them, i like you :) you remind me alot of a friend of mine, simple tone and easy to understand :)
Subscribed and liked. Amazing skills to determine the fault and take correct decision for a repair. Love it.
Thank you for watching!
Nicely done video. I wanted to move to PS3's eventually and very likely do RSX swaps, so it was great to see what I'd be up against and the software I'd use. I started my soldering journey small and very soon got into 360's. Then I got into reballing. Got pretty good at it imo, but my equipment limited me to southbridges. GPUs were a struggle, and never had a successful CPU pull.
I'm currently focusing on repairing/restoring original Xbox's. 7 completed, 2 waiting on parts, 1 waiting for repair.
By the way, spatula soldering tips are amazing for BGA and more. If some large component on a massive ground plane is giving me attitude, just stick in the spatula tip, crank the temperature and let it eat. Nothing has stood a chance against it. Interesting watching the soldering station fight with the ground plane as it maintains the tips temperature - even if the ground plane always loses.
Also, how come you're using that size nozzle for the Tokins? I'd think no nozzle would be best.
I am glad that you enjoy this video. My current soldering station does not support spatula tips, so I have ordered a new soldering station that supports it. Still waiting for it to arrive due to Lunar New Year in China.
Anyhow, thanks for the tips, I am relatively new to soldering and still learning which tip or which nozzle to use for different situations.
how do these tips look like
Nice video! Watching Tronicsfix and others is fun, but watching you is closer to what I would be up against if I tried to fix something. Looking forward to more videos like this!
Thanks for watching, I am a big fan of Tronicsfix myself too. He inspired me to do repair like this.
But it is true that doing a repair yourself is a totally different experience than watching other people doing it. Everything seems so easy when watching, but it is way more difficult when you actually do it.
@@hardwarerepair200 well is'nt that just the truth not even sarcastic lile that is agreed as for real that is just so true
Tronicsfix never had a ps3 repair video. Maybe scared or never success.
Hiya, absolutely love these videos on how your restoring these systems. Love on you showing the Syscon side of things and how your planning on going through repairing them. However I must protest that reballing wont fix your problem, its a fancy way of reflowing the chips and for the problem to re-occur. The problem is mostly the BGA connection... its the solder balls which connect the bumps within the die of the GPU and its green substrate, due to poor manufacturing in the material silicon which protects the dies connection to the substrate. Meaning the only way of fixing the problem indefinitely is investing doing a complete GPU swap to a 40nm GPU. I paid money when I was younger to have my old 60GB Compatible PS3 to be reballed, problem re-occur the next day. However though its a great method to keep them running, but its all pending on the state of the GPU. 😢 I am luckiy getting my PS3 Frankensteined with a 40mn GPU soon though! 🙂
Nice vid! I’ve had this problem and tried soldering new capacitors. Unfortunately it didn’t work. Didn’t check syscon though.
I’ve heard that even with new capacitors it’s not a permanent fix, such a beautiful machine deemed to fail
Out of the four consoles I show in the video, three of them need a RSX reball/swap, and three of them need to change the capacitor.
So it is true that the early models have so many failing points.
@@hardwarerepair200 that’s a shame! ;(
I really like the story behind the first PS3 console. And personally, my favorite is the launch 60gb console. I would totally overpay for one of these in working condition.
@@matheust.5388 It is indeed a shame. To me, the launch version of PS3 is an engineering masterpiece. It is the the last console by SONY that try to add fully backward compatibility to all previous generations.
But I believe SONY consider the launch version as a failure because of the high production cost. As a result, the father of PS3, Ken Kutaragi had to resign because of the poor revenue that it generates.
@@hardwarerepair200 yeah :(
Great work! Its such a shame that these take a lot of work and alot of great backwards compatible models will eventually just be E-waste though
It should be for about at least around half of the time just a mere need for a 65 or even 45nm chip from a newer ps3 to replace the cell broadband engine and rsx chips in the ylod fwiw as the underfill is the cause so basically check the rip felix video on youtube from this year as l9ng as it is by the end it made sense but I had to watch it in 2 seperate chunks but also I may have been only able to fully reaize what was explained in that video by watching it over a secondtime the next day as it was before bed the prior might so I was not as able to fully think etc... but yeah
You typically don’t need to reball the main problem with these ps3’s is the faulty underfill they use which means you have to swap it with a 40 nm rsx
This is what i call repair! I'm subbing
Thank you for watching! I want more people to know the proper repair which is "diagnosis (SYSCON) --> repair". Instead of blinding seeking for the "ultimate fix" or "permanent fix" without even checking the real cause of YLOD.
Been waiting for your video since last spring mate ! Thank you so much!
Is the #2 still working ?
th-cam.com/video/Za7WTNwAX0c/w-d-xo.html
@@cybcarr Thanks for watching. Yes, it is still working. I have a new video for it and upgraded its blu-ray drive.
th-cam.com/video/SweckPS7d-g/w-d-xo.html
Since you already have the lower heater plate, you can easily make a Top heating element.
What you need,
1) 400-600W Ceramic Heater
2) REX-C100 PID controller
3) DIY a holder/tripod using scrap metal
Would only cost you less than $50 since you already have the bottom plate.
Thanks for the suggestion! I will definitely check it out!
@@hardwarerepair200
OR if you want even cheaper, use halogen bulbs.
Here is a great video with subs you can follow, "watch?v=ouHsF4tNhk0".
@@hardwarerepair200
Or use halogen bulbs if you want even cheaper.
use this in youtube's url, ouHsF4tNhk0
Can't link as youtube comments get deleted
@@oliviavalentine5294 Thanks bro! Very useful information. Let's do our best to keep PS3 alive for another 50 years or so :)
@@oliviavalentine5294 I did see your link just now. Or let me help you to post your link so that other people can also see it?
th-cam.com/video/ouHsF4tNhk0/w-d-xo.html
Can you see the link?
If you do a lot of this, the old panasonic 2.4 volt screw drivers are awesome. They used NICD but I modded mine to NIMH. they use 2 sub c cells. I modded the charger by removing all internals and just bringing out the two wires to banana connectors to use my hobby charger with them. The tenergy 5000 was a ridiculous amount of power that gave me way more torque and lasted forever on a charge.
Mine two are both model ey503. Built to last and lots of power for a small package.
I hope he inspires more videos from you in the future. This is very well done.
Thanks for watching! I am glad that you like it :)
Hello, what trainings are needed to start repairing like you?
Incredible soldering skill! I guess having good quality equipment makes the difference but you should see mine...
Don't give up, practice makes perfect. I don't have any soldering experience piror to this either.
When I made this video, I was only around 10 months into soldering.
To be honest, many people commented that I am using the worng/cheap tools.
I am also learning from the comments that what tools to use.
Hello community! I have a problem with my PS3 which I made a Nektokins change for the YLOD, but now when I turn it on it stays green (without showing an image) And without giving an image or anything, then it just turns off showing a yellow light, I don't know the problem and unfortunately I can't afford to buy a TTL reader to read the Syscon of the console :(, I wanted to know if this has happened to anyone and what you recommend I do (it should be noted that the capacitors I bought are completely new, and that I never did a Reballing on the console, Although I did remove the IHS from the RSX and the CELL to change the thermal paste, since I have heard that sometimes the YLOD error is repaired this way) Thank you in advance for reading this, I hope you can help me :(
The heat might fixed it. If you wanna mask this parameter, you could rip the capacitors and solder wires with low melting solder, connected to capacitor array board.
Brother do you repair them? I have a 60gb fat ps3 that is reading ps1 ps3 but is not reading ps2 silver disc and dvds any tips? Or I can pay you to repair it for me?
I've been fixing consoles smartphones boards for over 5 years now and I have never seen someone going into debugging system errors on a board like JTAG ..
It takes a Japanese person to WOW ME and dude you just WOWED the hell out of me!
What an incredible approach, got me subscribed to your channel!
Thanks for watching! Long live retro consoles!
Great video very useful
By the way what CAP did you use?
Thank you
The capacitor model number is 2R5TPE470M9
I really hope that your channel blows up, the content is great, and I hope you succeed with your BGA reballing attempt at home. Looking forward to new content.
Thanks for watching. Doing a BGA reball or even a Frankenstein is my ultimate goal!
Usually I just cut off the nec tokins without soldering
I guess there are more than one way to remove the NEC/TOKINs. As long as it does the job!
Great video, in-depth, interesting and well made. Subbed and liked
Thanks so much. Your subscription motivates me to make more videos like this.
Very useful and informative video, good job :)
Great video and straight to the point explanation, make more videos like this!
Thanks for watching. I will try my best!
@@hardwarerepair200 BTW When you test consoles after repair, you should power cycle them. Let them get hot and then cool down all the way. This eliminates fake fixes due to thermomechanical stress.
@@andrejpopovic52 Thanks for the advice. I will keep it in mind.
That all black one, SUPER RARE! Love it.
It is CECHB, this model has no WIFI, but I love its design.
I got 6 YLOD's if you want em :P Moving soon, so I am trying to downsize and make a bit of cash for the move
great video! I have a quick question, you didn't jumper the capacitors, wouldn't that be necessary?
What do you mean jumper the capacitors? Bridge the two positive terminals? He did do that with the NEC tokin caps he didn't take out from the other side
Thank you for explaining for me. Yes, I keep the NEC caps on the other side as the bridge. But as @ripfelix3020 mentioned, having two different types of capactors together might be harmful too.
He has another solution called Tantalizer. It is the best replacement for NEC caps in my opinion.
oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
É preciso ter cuidado com esse procedimento, há uma boa chance de prejudicar os túneis que interligam as faces da placa.
People make the screw sound intimidating. It’s a Torx T8 or T10 security screw. They come in most repair kits, Ex: iFixit, but Walmart sells a cheaper one. It’s not normal Torx, it’s a security screw. They’re really easy to come across is what I’m saying
I suggest getting Chemtronics Chem-Wik wicks if you haven't because I had wicks similar to what you use and they'd always unbraid and the rosin would burn real bad. Makes it way less annoying and cleans up nicely!
Thank you Sir.
It has to do with the constant turning on and off of the console eventually this weakens the material under the components and causes them to break.
How if we removed both sides Nec Tokin and replacing all into Tantalum ??
Very good work. I sent my ps3 to reball or check if it's the nec tokens. It gives ylod on some games. Doesn't overheat. It's weird that I can play ratchet for 2h and gt6 gives ylod after getting in a race. I did make error dump with ps3 advance tools but the date in the errors shows 2008 despite the date in the console is right. Anyway errors point to rsx
Indeed, syscon is the greatest tool to check what's wrong with our PS3. With syscon, no more blind guess and wrong fix :)
From where we can buy such used electronics equipments in Germany
I am not sure in Germany, but in Japan, there are a lot of shops selling used items. The shops for selling used game items are mostly in Akihabara.
I have made an video about finding used consoles in Akihabara before.
th-cam.com/video/Ayq7LYPQ4Pc/w-d-xo.html
I hope you could find nice used electronics in Germany too!
Question here
Ceramic capacitors could be better than tantalum ones??
Low ESR capacitors should be used. Ceramic capacitors usually have a very high ESR, so it is not better. If you are looking for a better solution, a combination of tantalum and ceramic can be used. Felix has designed a board for it, feel free to check it out
oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
@@hardwarerepair200 I understand, thank you for the fast answer. Just I'm looking for more durability, this old hardware still worth cuz natively supports BC PS2 games, but faulty design.
@@hardwarerepair200 hi, i repeat and watch your vid couple of times. I just check the link and it has two model of capasitor, which model of capasitor should i choose or both can be use?
Would using a in circuit capacitor tester work too?
I had same issue.. After reballing HDMI port not working. Repair tech said HDMI port's IC chip is permanently damaged. Is it so?.. so now i have only AV port. Also i can see yellow light few times while turning on/off. What to do?.. I have CFW 4.88
If you have CFW, you can install advanced PS3 tools and extract the syscon error log to a USB drive, and check what is causing YLOD.
Problem is with Gpu, they either re ball, heat or replace with 40nm instead of 90 nm from a donor board from slim ps3's
Si la consola aún enciendo por un momento, y considerando que cuenta con evilnat, sería posible extraer el historial de errores por una memoria usb ?
Sí tu puedes.
Instale "PS3 Advanced Tools", luego use "dump syscon".
www.psx-place.com/threads/release-ps3-advanced-tools.34104/
Reballing never fixes the problem, only delays it from happening again. The best way to repair these is to use a 40nm RSX chip and modify syscon to recognize the new chip.
I had a 1601 a 1701 and a 3034 errors a bad rsx. I sent it to a former Sony tech in California to have a 40nm put on. That is what Sony was doing at the repair centers. Mine is a cecha01. I was told that it is not worth repairing if it is not a backward compatible model.
Hi. Where's to buy this diagnostic tool? I meen Syscon READER.
Hello, if you search it on Amazon using the keyword "TTL USB", you should be able to find a bunch of them :)
I purchased a ps3 launch model with the ylod problem in hoping it is the same issue as system #2 as the ylod light happens just as quickly waiting on my serial adapter to read the Syscon codes
Wish you all the best and keep us updated!
Nice video. I have some constructive criticism however; one thing that kinda literally made my skin crawl was the fast forwarding sound of undoing screws.... might just be me but it's a type of sound akin to fingernails on a chalkboard....at least for me. Don't mean to be harsh.... just trying to help
Sorry to irritate you and thanks for pointing it out. I didn't know this, and I will be careful and probably lower the fast forwarding volume and cover it with some background music next time.
Thanks for the constructive feedback!
Thanks man good video
Thank you for watching!
Awesome. I'm trying to fix my PS3 with there ylod.. I want first to disassemble it.. then get the correct caps to make the swap. But.. you said only one side of the board need replacement?? I have also seen some guys use 4 caps instead 6. I guess that's is causes you achieve the correct uf with 3 each side??.. if I get the exact cap u are using I will go for 6 like you!!. Also any ideas on how to remove the tokins with out a heat gun?
Hello, why u put 6 capacitors instead of 4 like everyone else?
Does it make a difference, im very interested why you do it 🙂
Hi. How can i do the syscom diagn.? What do i need to start? Thanks
I have another video about the syscon
th-cam.com/video/bXu-IhiYPHE/w-d-xo.html
Bake them in an oven using a guide as I can’t remember the temp you can’t exceed. I did this with my 40gb console and it worked again for about 6 months so that was better than nothing.
have you watched rip felix video on tantalum caps ? very interesting video !
Yes! It is his video that inspired me to make this video! I really wish that I could do a RSX swap properly so that I can save the remaining three consoles! Thanks for watching and cheers!
OR you could buy a 200 usd infrared camera and look who is acr abnormal.
OR check each with oscilloscope or multimeter.
Do you need to still add a bridge to PS3 #2? My worry is that the Tokins are going to heat up excessively because you've halved the current carrying capacity
Thanks for the comment. It is indeed an interesting aspect that I don't see many people asking about it. I haven't explored the heating issues for the Tokins. But if other people managed to bridge the positive terminals using only a few wires without any problems, Tokins would be a much better bridge than the wires.
So I would say although the current carrying capacity is not as high as an untouched PS3 when half of the Tokins are removed, it is better than those methods where people removed all Tokins and add back a few wires as the bridge.
@@hardwarerepair200 I agree that it's definitely better. I should say that I did really enjoy your video and how you detailed the process. Your work is very clean too. Definitely watching your future vids!
@@frassyfrass3174 Thanks so much! Glad that you enjoy it.
my ps3 was delided caps change about 3 years ago yesterday it ylod do you think thé caps have To change
sorry my ignorance but what does bga means?
It means ball grid array.
Hello, great video. I have errors 1001 and 1004. Is it possible that my ps3 can be fixed by changing the nec tokin? Which should I change, those of the RSX or CPU? Thanks.
Are there only 1001 and 1004? If so, you can try replacing the NEC/TOKINs on the CPU side first. As some people pointed out in the comments, 1001 can be caused by reason other than the TOKINs. But hopefully in your case, you can fix it by just replacing the TOKINs on the CPU side.
check if theres the modchip installed if yes than its a glod otherwise delayed ylod
That is freaking nuts dood.
First summer job at 15 was surface mount soldering Nortel telecommunication boards. I dunno why anybody would put this much time on fixing a fat PS3. Put the console in the microwave for a few minutes. Works every time. ;) Oh and forgot. Chuck that thing into a dumpster afterward and buy a functioning PS3 at a pawn shop for like $50.
Hey, are any of these a CECHC04?
Three of them are CECHA, and one of them is CECHB.
Can anybody link me to good tools to de-solder and etc? I have a slim and a fat ps3 that I want to try saving, the fat most importantly since its been with me throughout my childhood
If you are new to soldering, I suggest you to practice on another broken console first. The first attempt is usually a failure, at least for me.
That being said, the soldering station I was using in this video is Yiyua-8786d. It's an entry model, not very good. But it gets the job done.
LOL I was clearing out storage from mother's home, last couple days and yesterday found a box with 4 PS3 Phat that I got off a guy 6/7 years ago - so this vid perfect to work through them and hopefully get them working.. Edit* Is that TTL used to do a syscon check then? And where a good place to get one.. many thanks
Great Vid Thanks !! Sub'd and Liked
For TTL, I simply bought it off Aliexpress. But there should be some on amazon too. Here's an example
www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ft232rl&qid=1682558233&sr=8-4
Update us on your PS3 fixing journey. All the best!
i face same problem with my ps3 fat 4 usb today never open bought new let me know help me
If possible, you can check the syscon error log to see what problem is your PS3 facing?
How much did you buy them all for?
300 USD for all of them including shipping (back in 2022). The price in 2024 has inflated a lot now.
thank for the good adivise with syscon use
I hope more people will use SYSCON from now on. Thanks for watching!
It amazing how we all know what YLOD means😄😄
Thanks for watching!
Generally the tokins don't fail from heat those ground planes you drilled at are for heat disapation as you can see it works great and those caps have no chance of really over heating. The BGA is also not the issue nvidia pretty much confirmed at this point that the issue on those series of gpus was a issue with the flip chip design of the chip itself. It can be fixed with heat temporarily as most electronics can. The GPU needs to be replaced itself. All 90nm RSX are flawed and the 65NM are iffy. Once you get that rework station up you should look into frankenstiening the ones with faulty gpus. Reference: th-cam.com/video/Za7WTNwAX0c/w-d-xo.html
Is it also fhe same for the cpu? Pretty sure that is the one called the cell broadband engine that is the cpu?
In the end they are capacitors and all capacitors have a limited lifespan. For an extra few minutes it doesn't hurt to do both just to be sure
Why do you never talk about delidding the CPU? I had this problem. Because thermal paste between the heat spreader and cpu die was dried up and nog giving correct contact -> overheating.
The true fix is replacing the faulty RSX or modding it with a 40nm RSX. Maybe a reball at times can be the fix aswell but why flip a chip when you can replace it. Tokins work just fine.
True fix is just to get a CECH-21xx or 25xx model.
They still have CFW support, 40nm RSX, 45nm Cell, no Tokin/NEC caps and excellent PS2 software emulation, capable of running 75-80% of the entire library flawlessly.
I wish I had gotten that instead of my CECHA00, I'm afraid it will fail at some point. It was delid and I use Webman mod to increase the fan speed but I still would feel much safer with a 21xx.
@@Manic_Panic Really, a PS3 Slim can emulate the PS2’s entire library, that’s pretty cool. I still prefer the original 60gb PS3. Nothing beats original hardware. Even if yours fails you can just order a 40nm RSX from Ali Express or eBay and get it replaced by a professional along with leaded solder. It may cost some dough, but it will future proof your A01. I still have my A01, dellided with free new Aeronaught Paste with Thermal Right Thermal Pad and it runs a lot cooler but would love to replace the 90nm RSX with a 40NM someday along with Liquid Metal. I also made the mistake of replacing the fully working Tokins with Tantalums. Tokins rarely ever fail, so it mostly a waste of time and effort to replace them. I will end going over it again with the Tantaliser kit. Another system i’m worried about is my PSX DVR.
Could it be that the BGA problems take out the NEC Tokins and that their failure is a result, not a cause?
I have 0 knowledge but this was cool 🙏
demm, i thought only #3 and #4 are easy to fix with only tantalums since they initially had longer green to ylod time. guess I'm wrong. yeah, reballing job is PITA
My brother still has his original backwards compatible ps3 boxed since he bought it new back in the day, he has taken it out now again but was not a fan as much as ps1 and 2 which he loved, shame really.
The launch model of PS3 is awesome! I grew up with PS1 and PS2, so I love the launch model since it allows me to play all my childhood games with only one console.
Great video!
syscon need to be config back next repair?
28nm rsx ps3 super slim is possible on ps3 fat?
It is not possible since the pin layout for the 28nm RSX is completely different from the 90nm one.
Can you help me to get syscon and uart
Hi can u remove rhe cap of cpu ps3super slim type cech 420
There is no more NEC/TOKINs on super slim. As far as I know super slim has basically solved the YLOD problem, so you don't need to worry about it.
@@hardwarerepair200 u mean no need to change the paste under cap
why is it the yellow light of death when the light is red?
It actually depends on the model. Early models show only the red light. But later models show both red and green light at the same time, which appears to be yellow to human eyes.
But both of them represent the same thing (with 3 beeps), general hardware failure.
So my ps3 problem is that it turns on for a while but doesn’t show up on tv
After a minute red light beeps all the time
But one day i tried to open it by holding power button it goes to the checking file system menu its was giving sign of working
But again i got rlod same problem
What to do with it i am very sad can you plz tell me what should i do
Btw its my second ps3
My 1st ps3 got ylod problem while jailbreaking
Das beste Video zu diesem Thema auf ganz youtube!! Great Job man!
Danke fürs zuschauen!
Hey. Why did you put 6 capacitors on each token?
Good question! My approach is to keep as many NEC/TOKINs there as possible since they act as a bridge even if they go bad. The extra capacitors are to account for possibly nonfunctioning NEC/TOKINs that are still on the motherboard. According to my experience, 6 capacitors are enough to handle two failed NEC/TOKINs.
I know for other people, when one NEC/TOKINs fails, they remove all NEC/TOKINs and replace each with 4 caps. But in that case, you need to add a bridge yourself. If the bridge is too thin, it will burn out really quickly. If the bridge is too thick, you risk shorting it with other places. A console with all NEC/TOKINs removed seldom last longer than 2 weeks (at least according to my experience).
That's why I tried keeping as many NEC/TOKINs as I can and at the same time squeezing as many replacements as I can in one slot. So far non of them have any problems. But as I mentioned in the video, this fix only works when you see syscon errors 1001 or 1002. If you see 3034, replacing the caps won't fix your console.
@@hardwarerepair200 understood, was asking since the majority of the guides/videos i see around the web they all do the mats for 1200uf and 3 tantalums are enough for that.
Regarding the bridges some say if you leave only one tokin even on the otherside of the board they will act as bridge anyway.
Never tried it though, i have only replaced 2 tokins once and it worked so left it like that.
Rip-felix designed some boards that should make replacing the tokins much easier. They're called "PS3 Tantalizer".
That's awesome! I didn't know that, got to find a chance to try it. Do you know what is the function of the six 0805 Multi Layered Ceramic Capacitors (MLCC) on this board?
It is mentioned in the description on the product page, but there is no explanation on the functions of the MLCC.
oshpark.com/profiles/RIP-Felix
@@hardwarerepair200
"You do not need to buy the MLCC capacitors. The 470uF capacitors are enough on their own. However, the MLCC capacitors help to attenuate the higher frequency noise component up to around 2MHz, better mimicking the NEC/TOKIN proadlizer it's meant to replace. This is probably overkill on PS3's with 1000uF tokins. I still recommend using 470uF caps, because 3x 330uF is only 990uF and may not be enough. It's better to have more capacitance than less, but not too much more. The MLCCs are more needed on 90nm CPU/GPU early models (A-H). They have noisier switching VRM and higher load, which requires more decoupling than later models. Use them if your tokins are OE128 models. You probably don't need them otherwise."
This is what I found on psx-place. Rip-felix posted a thread announcing the tantalizer boards. I don't know if I can post links, but I'll try in my next comment.
But tbh, I really liked the way you exposed more of the ground plane and was able to solder the caps on straight. First time I've seen it! 👌
Your method is probably just as easy as using the tantalizer.
Can you help me,error 8002f147
It does not seem like a syscon error to me.
Where do you get this error?
@@hardwarerepair200
PS3
8002F147
whin update 4.60
The first one you fixed is a rare model of a phat ps3
CellもRSXも5000μFあれば
とりあえず安心？
Um belo console fabricado com peças com baixa qualidade !
Where can I buy a controller like yours?
Where Can I buy syscon reader?
Hello, if you search it on Amazon using the keyword "TTL USB", you should be able to find a bunch of them :)
@@hardwarerepair200 is the result attractive or not?
@@ennesimo84 Here is one of the results that I found. The price is quite attractive.
www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C
I don't see tronixfix doing this type of repair because he'd never replace a GPU on a board
Good work 👍 time to subscribe 😉
Thanks for the sub!