วีดีโอ

So you didnt need to add the remaining ceramic capacitors for the rip felix PCB, and in this repair you just replaced those two token with the rip-felix cap solution?

You wasting and purchasing ps3 fat models. Seriously. What have you done😢😢😢

Failing leads to Success one ☝day🌄 ... 👍 Something Like that Right🤷‍♂

2:20 never see people say yes and happy to YLOD before :)

Hi if may, I want to ask you a question regarding of the PS3 drive, where can I DM you?

i tell everyone how to fix all ps3 for real, isntead of killing 10 Ps3s to do this Bullshit of Frankenstein mod, what people shall be 100% thinking about doyng is just an machine or socket pressure Mod, just like the Xbox 360 bolts mod which solve the problem even if the problem was or is the bumps still the Pressure mod on the die of the chip fiberglass itself will fix the problem like wise a simple socket which makes the connection of cpu to mainboard by adding pressure, the Pressure Mod will fix even nearlly all the 90nm RSX gpu, it should pratically and theoretically fix the gpus with bump failures as its already been prooven to fix the Original Xbox 360 with 90nm Gpus and Edram, The only problem of the Bolts mod on the 360 was that it lacked support on the back of motherboard so leading to bend of motherboard and OF COURSE loosening the whole pressure on the chip, so the pressure mod on any system must be made thinking very smartly and acurated, must extremely careful with the core Die Silicon or it can be Cracked or damaged in the edges cracking its edges.

Hi thanks for this simplified tutorial. Will a reball (if a Frankie conversion is not an option for me) fix the 3034? I joined PSX-Place over a week ago, but for some reason it won't let me post anything! It only says that I have "insufficient privileges to post here" in every thread, and there's no way to contact an admin/moderator. I checked the error codes on psdevwiki, so far I can tell that 1701 and 1601 lead to the 3034... is it unmistakably the RSX? Thanks! CECHA01 (I have it since new) >$ becount becount Bringup : 912 times Shutdown: 886 times Power-on: 47day 14hour 21min 47sec [mullion]$ Press Ctrl+C to exit >$ >$ errlog errlog ofst[ 92]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[ 96]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[100]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[104]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[108]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[112]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[116]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[120]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[124]:err_code:0xffffffff, clock:0xffffffff ofst[ 0]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0xffffffff ofst[ 4]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0x11d8025e 2009/06/26 22:04:14 ofst[ 8]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0x123ab81c 2009/09/09 19:01:48 ofst[ 12]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0x17a9d667 2012/07/30 23:33:59 ofst[ 16]:err_code:0xa0801200, clock:0x17bae6a8 2012/08/12 22:11:52 ofst[ 20]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0x28f25746 2021/10/08 01:11:34 ofst[ 24]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0x2ab29ff0 2022/09/13 01:57:04 ofst[ 28]:err_code:0xa0801004, clock:0x0b6a7d05 2006/01/25 18:16:37 ofst[ 32]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0cb450bc 2006/10/02 22:35:40 ofst[ 36]:err_code:0xa0801601, clock:0x0cb450bc 2006/10/02 22:35:40 ofst[ 40]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb450d4 2006/10/02 22:36:04 ofst[ 44]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb450e3 2006/10/02 22:36:19 ofst[ 48]:err_code:0xa0801701, clock:0x0cb45228 2006/10/02 22:41:44 ofst[ 52]:err_code:0xa0801601, clock:0x0cb45228 2006/10/02 22:41:44 ofst[ 56]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb46481 2006/10/03 00:00:01 ofst[ 60]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb46493 2006/10/03 00:00:19 ofst[ 64]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb464a1 2006/10/03 00:00:33 ofst[ 68]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb464a8 2006/10/03 00:00:40 ofst[ 72]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb464ce 2006/10/03 00:01:18 ofst[ 76]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb464e0 2006/10/03 00:01:36 ofst[ 80]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb6cc2b 2006/10/04 19:46:51 ofst[ 84]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb6cc36 2006/10/04 19:47:02 ofst[ 88]:err_code:0xa0403034, clock:0x0cb6cc45 2006/10/04 19:47:17 [mullion]$

You killed 10 ps3s, now I have to hire a Hitman for you.

29:00 😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😡😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😡😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😡😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😡😡😡😡😡😠😠

Stop destroying ps3s 😡😠😠😠😠😠😡😡😠😠😠😠😠😡

Porque no utilizas una lampara de 12v para sacar el chip es mucho mas facil y sin aire

sad 🥲

good work mate

💯💯🔥🔥

El video me dio muncha tristeza ver morir a varias ps3 solo para revivir a una ps3 buen video solo que el doblaje está horrible

Mad respect not everyone showing you what whent wrong only succes your making what people wanna see a tip keep the nozzle close 5mm on the heatgun don't go above 250c your heatgun doesn't have enough airflow have patience your not on a Jovy or Achi bga rework station try on Sem-001(CechG) boards try a reball first don't kill the bc models and always bake the boards and delidd rsx always don't give up your close

Hypeeeee

"RARETHINGZ" Ps3 In UK is a GOAT for Frankensteining PS3s, 40nm my Development DECH A00 excellent service £250.

Man, i feel you. Las month i was trying to fix a keyboard but i'm not good at replacing IC's. It was a mess... Learn that I was using a high temp soldering wire and causing the IC go bad and take more temperature to solder so I cook the mobo.

Frankenstein Moto 🫢😂

Can’t you do a mod, add something in between the chip and the pcb. Use a 3D printer and make premade balls. lol

Fix sony psx please

Alixpress links...?

Muy buen video me divertí viéndote desarmar ps3 amigo una pregunta bueno 2 la primera es donde puedo conseguir esa boquilla para la pistola de calor la que es para de soldar la gpu. Y la otra es que tengo una ps3 pero Ami no me sale ninguno de la luces de esas solo que lo que hace es que la enciendo y Deuna como a los 10 minutos en el mero meno me sale un mensaje de sobre calentamiento y que lo apague para evitar daños y si no le ago caso se apaga sola y lla cambie pasta térmica hasta la dejé por fuera y le puse otros ventiladores con mucha más potencia para ensayar y ya si dura un poco más ya hasta me deja arrancar el juego y medio jugar pero como 25 minutos pero me sale el mensaje de nuevo y si lo dejo así se apaga por hay e visto que modificando el sistema de refrigeración por uno liquido mejora mucho las temperaturas pero nose tu que tienes un poco más de experiencia con las ps3 me puedas ayudar diciéndome que puede ser el problema la ps3 es una fat ? Y muchas gracias

can you do tutorial how to order tantalizer from pcbway..

Your job is simpy amaizing. Keep on showing all your fails becouse it's very informative!

DONT REMOVE THE STENCIL!!! its ok you wont brake it

Fake video

Great video, love your sense of humor. Im very new to this whole community but excited to learn and glad there are people like you making videos. Thank you!!!

There's another English saying you may want to contemplate. The early bird might get the worm but it's the second mouse that gets the cheese. Some friendly advice would be to decrease the nozzle size on your hot air a bit which will help it focus on the part you're trying to remove/replace. Not too much, just maybe the next size down. Another thing to try is to get the Kapton tape just under the edge of the chip by sliding it in underneath from the side before pressing it down. Then progressively work your way out until you've masked enough space off that you have room to work which will help you see better. Doing these two things should help quite a bit. You can also lower your preheat temperature a little. A good way to get moisture out of the board that doesn't heat stress the electrolytic capacitors is to burry the board in a container filled with dry rice Try this on a non-repairable board first though in my experience fixing computer motherboards which "have to stay running" because they're tied to obsolete hardware which still works fine but is incompatible with newer computers due to a lack of serial ports or the unobtanium drivers that won't work with modern machines even if it was carefully backed up. The point of this is that these old tanks are cheaper to repair than it would be to refit a factory of old robots with new ones. I understand how hard reballing is. I also get what it feels like when a CMOS battery pops because you forgot to remove it. I've had electrolytic caps do that too, makes me jump and instantly cringe every time. As far as mistakes are concerned, that's how we learn things that we can't figure out if it all goes well and nothing goes wrong. Sometimes it's just having enough patients. Other times it's that EUREKA moment that you have in the middle of the night that makes you race down to the lab to see if the idea you have has any basis in reality. Just don't give up and you'll get there eventually.

Just leave and go to sleep🤣🤣🤣

Great video. Never give up if this is your true passion in life. Persistence is key to master something as difficult as this.

You need bottom air too, but the main issue is that toy hot air gun, you need more flow, less temperature. Get a Sugon 8620 or 8630, 1300W, more air, should do much better. Also try raising the hot plate to 200°C Only 400+°C hot air at the top will take too long and kill every board, and 450°C over the chips is just crazy!

I don't think it's worth killing a bunch of working CECHL ps3s to get a backwards compatible console.

Well, I watched the whole thing. I tried to count the number of PS3 units you went through. You have more patience than me, that's a fact. I have subscribed to see if you win in the end.

Which crazy F*%K would sell a backwards compatible PS3 for 20 USD LMFAOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

keep it up i believe in you im shure you can learn and overcome your problems and succeed 😊

It's weird to call it an upgrade. If its bluray reading capabilities are lost, who the hell cares if it can read DVD and CD? Bluray is the very purpose of a PS3. lol

I had the same buckling problems with one of my stencils. Another stencil from another manufacturer did not expand like that when heated (i had to try 5 stencils until i found a good one). I have never been able to re-ball without the stencil installed since the balls would roll all over the place. Maybe finding a good stencil is not easy.

Y al final despues de todas esas ps3 desarmadas quedó alguna buena?? 😢

definitivamente esto hay que hacerlo con una maquina de reballing si o si , con lo invertido en consolas yo las hubiera reparado tal cual y las vendo para comprar una estacion de reballing y hay si lo intentaria.

Mano rompiste 8 consolas estás loco

Alex told and showed you how to do it low melt and for the port I’m sure he sells it and thing you missed most flux and lots of it Amtech v2 or. Is it ASM lol the flux wars the good old days you still figured out that 1: practice 2: more practice I was trying to tell you more heat but you didn’t hear me you must be pretty far away

A trick to do the ground shield pins to to use a angle nozzle and heat underside while putting the solder at pin on top side. It flow in once hit temperature and makes for a factory clean look. As far as the pads on the board tin them with a little even hump and tin the HDMI connector under pins, flux and drag solder it. Then preheat the board with hot air, the drop in HDMI, then wait till you see it drop further and connections in rear is shiny, or move HDMI connector as you would dance/float a IC to check it and you won't have to manually solder the pins. Use flux it helps. I done well over 100's consoles and learn over the years. You get good at it after a few. 300c is to low, especially in game consoles like a ps5 board where huge ground plane 430c quickly. Temperature for manually soldering small pins around 390c with a medium size bevel tip and plenty of flux. With those temperature gave you, make sure you calibrate your hot air station thermocoouple 1 inch at nozzle and tip with a Hakko iron tip thermometer to get same results. Use a cartridge style solder tips like JBC, or a METCAL RF station for better thermo recovery. I prefer the JBC solder stations as run AC on heater and more power, which means better recovery overall. T12 will do the job if good genuine Hakko cartridges, but the JBC and Metcal far better. I get you want to show people on cheap tools, but it actually discourages people. just use reasonable tools like for the JBC instead of the JBC station, cheaper would be a Axiun and you can use JBC tips the better Axiun T420D station use AC as the genuine JBC station and as good. You can still get budget tools that will do far better then the cheapest tool that will discourage someone as they find it to hard and makes it way more difficult, then it has to be. Balance is key. I learn on a plug in the wall Radio Shack set temperature solder iron, before stations where readily available. With SMD it different as boards act as ground planes for heat dissipation and requires good RF, or cartridge based solder stations and hot air stations. HDMI sure be a 1 out of 5 on your scale, just use better tools. I do about 2, or 3 a day as repair consoles professionally as own a store now and takes me literally under 5 minutes about 35 to 40 minutes total taking the console apart and putting back together. I literally just did a ps5 while watching a couple of your video.

If there's one thing I noticed with this video, the times when you had delamination on the board were both the 1-871-868-22 revision, which according to Rambonz as I was learning some of this stuff, tends to delaminate a lot since it was made quite poorly, the 868-12 and 868-32 boards are much more resilient. The 868-22 board can still have rework done obviously, and according to him the best way to deal with a 22 is to just throw all the hot air at it at once, helps to prevent the delamination. Otherwise it is very nice seeing all the work with these, and documenting the process to help others learn is a very handy thing to have, keep it up.

The delamination/popcorn is due your hot air station a 100%, those don't regulate air and heat evenly and you have to preheat board at lower temperature, before going to higher temperature to bring board to warm before very hot. The problem is those cheap stations put to much heat and doesn't regulate airflow correctly. I use to use the cheap hotair station with DC fan in handle, when I learned many years ago and was lucky to get 1 out of 3 that didn't delaminate, even doing simple HDMI repairs took way to long and needed to much heat with cheap station, with my Weller at lower temperature takes less then 5 minutes to remove HDMI with huge ground plane for a board compare to the cheap dc fan in handle station that took way to long and had to fight with it. You need even airflow and I use a Quick 861DW with same BGA tip, or my Weller wtha 1 and fixed and modded many PS3 with 90 percent success rate nowadays and now mostly repair PS5 now and no delamination/popcorn. Preheat the board on both sides for a few minute before reballing, The Weller can program ramp profiles, but typically do it manually as use to it as repair iPhone boards and use to handing and distance of handle. Your bottom preheater good as have the same one and does fine, but upgrade your hot air station, will be a night and day different and way quicker which means less chance of delamination. The Quick 861DW being the best bang for buck, don't buy on eBay as to many fakes and the real one has the 3 phase fan for better airflow regulation The real one over $300. You started the way I learned and you thank me later going to the Quick, or Weller, or JBC hot airstation. The Quick is the best for cost as adaptors are cheap. I also notice you use to much flux when putting back you only need a thin layer. Tape the themocouple to the board not the heater. You need to know the temperature as the air hit board. I know your trying to show people to do it with cheap tools but don't. I learned the hard way myself and trust me it discourage someone from trying again and they think it impossible, plus they destroy the limited amount of these consoles like you did in this video. Better for them to spend $350 on a decent hot air station like the Quick, or Atten and they won't give up and get better at it. Yes I learned on similar tools many years ago as had no choice as the Quick was even out and JBC was over 1.6k to buy one, I became very good to the point don't even have to look at it but almost gave up and destroyed way to many boards early on to get to that point. If Quick I had early on would have save me months to years of learning and consoles.

What is the purpose of this mod? I have mixed feelings - like you are very good at learning process and I can ´t do anything like that with BGA and I do really respect your skills! But on the otherside killing a working console to fix the same console? Maybe I missed the point. It is just something that I don ´t understand as a retro PC enthusiast..Anyway good luck! I would like to learn such a BGA skill too

It's not that hard to get off, I see you're using lead free solder, maybe that why it's hard for you...

I get the feeling this is no longer about the destination but the journey? 😅 Like some arduous trek across a ylod wasteland.

You definitely need a BGA Station for this. That small rework station has to work a lot harder to get those BGA chips off which can also over heat the motherboard causing the delamination due to it not spreading heat evenly. This is mainly designed to remove smd ic chips and components. Not big BGA chips.