Thank you and having subscribed. You are really good. I am doing the oil change next week, before winter, in order to remove the acids. The bike should be placed horizontally for draining and to level up the oil. So initially I put it on its side stand. That way I can also reach for the drain plug, from the right, easily. For draining what is left, I put pieces of timber under the side stand and finally hold the bike upright, being seated. I had oil that formed treads in the wind so watch out for weather. For the final gear: You had the order wrong. Those filler bolts are often completely stuck. Its cause is that shops do not understand that always the dry torque is being mentioned. This is a large bolt and the gear oil is most slippery and binding to metals. As a result the rubber ring is crushed and the light metals bind together. Also a thing to recon with when you tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Always less then written in service manuals. I hold the wrench close to the center and tighten just a little further. You make us worried saying you destroyed any of those. On removing the engine oil drain plug (also always tightened with wrong momentum) I slide a metal lamp pole over the cap wrench stem an try pulling it loose, without then the need of having to hammer. In preparation one can spray some lubricant the day before. Anyway, when one could not get the filler bolt losse and the hollow filler cap (weaker then one may think) gets rounded and then call out for help to chisel the cap off, one twisting and one hammering and ordering a new cap, the bike can not be ridden on because the final drive gear oil was drained. For the viscosity SAE 80: the initial number indicates performance at 0°C The number after "W" shows performance at 100°C. What it would almost never reach. Stick to oil being 80W. Also one valuable advice: I have bought Yamalube from under the counter and car gear oil in any shop, it was exactly the same as in the small bottles that are kept on display in the motorcycle shop but those are more then double the price. About buying: it is much better to invest in a funnel that has a strainer. Professionals use no other. Figure out yourself why. See you again
Love that engine sound, always liked the Honda ST's.
Thank you and having subscribed. You are really good.
I am doing the oil change next week, before winter, in order to remove the acids. The bike should be placed horizontally for draining and to level up the oil. So initially I put it on its side stand. That way I can also reach for the drain plug, from the right, easily. For draining what is left, I put pieces of timber under the side stand and finally hold the bike upright, being seated. I had oil that formed treads in the wind so watch out for weather. For the final gear:
You had the order wrong. Those filler bolts are often completely stuck. Its cause is that shops do not understand that always the dry torque is being mentioned. This is a large bolt and the gear oil is most slippery and binding to metals. As a result the rubber ring is crushed and the light metals bind together. Also a thing to recon with when you tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Always less then written in service manuals. I hold the wrench close to the center and tighten just a little further. You make us worried saying you destroyed any of those. On removing the engine oil drain plug (also always tightened with wrong momentum) I slide a metal lamp pole over the cap wrench stem an try pulling it loose, without then the need of having to hammer. In preparation one can spray some lubricant the day before. Anyway, when one could not get the filler bolt losse and the hollow filler cap (weaker then one may think) gets rounded and then call out for help to chisel the cap off, one twisting and one hammering and ordering a new cap, the bike can not be ridden on because the final drive gear oil was drained.
For the viscosity SAE 80: the initial number indicates performance at 0°C The number after "W" shows performance at 100°C. What it would almost never reach. Stick to oil being 80W. Also one valuable advice: I have bought Yamalube from under the counter and car gear oil in any shop, it was exactly the same as in the small bottles that are kept on display in the motorcycle shop but those are more then double the price. About buying: it is much better to invest in a funnel that has a strainer. Professionals use no other. Figure out yourself why. See you again
Great explanation. Have you done a video on checking your valve clearances by any chance ?
I want one of these I just worry about the maintenance part, but I’m guessing it’s probably easier than working on my ‘88 Goldwing.
The T6 says for diesel engines?
that will damage it finally