Hey everyone 👋🏻 Since posting this video, there have been some safety concerns brought to light about the SSR for machines in countries with 120v power (like Canada and the US). I unfortunately can’t add this directly to the video now, but here is an excellent breakdown: th-cam.com/video/JARwXIiTbxM/w-d-xo.html As of posting this, there has been a firmware update issued that was thought to have mitigated any issues, but some people’s tests have found it to be insufficient. There have also been some reports that QIDI has already started the process of sending out replacements parts to resolve the safety issues to anyone with a machine in the affected 120v countries.
You should definitely look into your chamber heater circuit board as your experience with your battery backup was telling you that likely it was drawing more than 400W, and even 500W as you say your battery backup is 900w.
I contacted Qidi after having heard about the issue, and within a week I received a replaced board. (I've printed nearly two spools of ABS since getting the printer.) Just installed the new supply a few minutes ago.
Yes, Qidi will send all users the newly engineered SSR board that addresses the issue. Unfortunately, the newest version of this printer still don't appear to come with the new SSR already installed. But it addresses the issue.
Hey everyone, sorry about the quality on the original upload. All fixed now. Thanks for letting me know and for all of your continuous support towards my content!
Thanks! I’d start with ABS first. Even though ASA is supposed to be a very similar filament, it’s the one that still likes to give me problems from time to time.
Your review is very clear and detailed. Thank you for your efforts. I am trying to make a decision between this printer and the P1S from Bambu. This has helped me for sure. I am leaning toward this printer for the 370 degree hotend and the optional tungsten carbide nozzles assembly. We will print mainly nylon and PP on this machine.
@ M.M's Prop Shop. A couple of suggestions with this printer. Use the Orca slicer 2.2 beta 2 or later. There is Plus4 profile in it. Orca slicer also does a better job with thin walls and scarf z seams. It's just better. For best outcome you still need to do some tinkering with plastic profiles. Also, make sure the belts have similar tension. If not, do correct them. And clean & lubricate the rods after the printer is settled in (in about 100 hours of print time).
Wow some wildly impressive prints in this video! Extremely impressed. I think you've done more actual testing than any other reviewer. I have a Plus4 and I have been extremely happy as well. I mostly do functional automotive prints and I just printed some PP-GF30 which came out awesome. ABS has also been great for me. The precision I've been getting is wild. All the way down to 0.01mm clearances on print in place bearings I designed. I couldn't ask for better. Perfect dimensional accuracy as well. Definitely hope to tackle some bigger prints in high end filaments in the future. It's really amazing what this machine can do stock from tiny high quality prints to large objects from engineering type filaments.
Ole school technophile here. Been a geek since Windows 95. Yeah. There was a win 95. Haven't yet invested in a 3d printer but have been following its trajectory since the first crude ones came out in maker space places. All DIY. Don't underestimate your flow in about your content. Yours is the best review I have seen on thus particular printer and have subscribed. Covered the tech stuff and good feedback. Thanx.
This looks really solid. If Bambu came out with a printer over 300mm, I'd buy it right away. But I can’t wait any longer, so next up, I'll be choosing between the QIDI Plus 4 and FLsun S1 Pro.
thanks for the detailed explanation and print test. i usually print helmets or display pieces, so this was really helpful to see,while the qidi plus4 didn’t nail the helmet on the first try, it definitely improved after some adjustments, i’m curious about how long a print like this actually takes, if it’s on the longer side, i might explore other options, like flsun, i’ve seen a few users mention shorter print times and decent efficiency, which has me a bit interested to look into it more
To be fair, Qidi was making core XY printers with very similar function and construction before Bambu Lab existed. They just were not very well known. All the way back in 2018 the original X-Plus and X-Max got pretty good reviews and were extremely capable. They just never got a ton of hype. Not going to deny that Bambu Lab pushed the industry forward in a lot of ways, but Qidi is just still doing their thing, listening to customers, and also embracing more open source. The heated chamber and high nozzle temps are what really draws someone like me who focuses on functional prints.
That has been Prusas thing for a bunch of years, long before Bambu came into the market. My 4yo prusa still just works, i never do any tuning or modding, it just prints well.
Thanks for the review again, you were the reason i got 2 xplus 3s last year and i already bought the 4 on the day they went live. I just need to actually take the time to clean my print room and rearrange my computer desk and set up the rack that it and my creality k2 is gonna go on so I can finally set up my plus 4 instead of sitting on the floor in my living room.
I clicked this video because I love helmets and for the most part I haven’t seen many helmets get 3d printed in one piece, that are wearable. But this turned into a very good video on 3d printers which left me knowings much more. Thank you.
@@MMsPropShop That's entirely why I've got my preorder for the Creality K2, it's got a few extra bells and whistles, but the 350mm cubed build volume is finally answering what the community has been crying out for since the BambuX1C was announced.
Im currently deciding between this or a resin printer as my first 3d printer in about 7 years. Whatever way I go the current options are so far ahead of the offerings from 5 years ago, its amazing!!
As someone that just finally replaced a Prusa MK2 that I was tired of fiddling with in exactly the way you are talking about: Don't do resin unless you are absolutely sure you need it. The fumes are a problem. The material is a struggle. The prints are more complicated and prone to problems, settings are super important and so are temps and the post processing is a bastard. I love the quality and the detail I get on resin but it made me go back and buy a good FDM. I was gonna get this but I'm waiting for them to work out the kinks and bought a used Bamby Labs printer. FDM has come a super long way. Just get a nice core XY like this or P1S and stay happy. Resin is for those that really need resin. It's practically full scale manufacturing.
I have had mine for about 2 weeks and I really wanted to do a helmet and seeing you do them I see I will have fun with this! mostly been doing a few things here and there but gonna go for broke and build my Mando armor. Enjoying the video!
About your problems with the battery backup: usually the ratings of the UPS are the peak wattage not the continuous wattage, so my guess the UPS is not big enough.
Love the props you make! Great job on review! They have the update which will fix the bed and heater block issue. Love my 4Plus have been printing nonstop on this unit now since late September and it is a joy! I also have the Q1 Pro and the Xsmart3 all get a regular non stop workout! My Xsmart3 is smaller no heated chamber but does a killer job with ABS.....went through two full rolls of abs on it on my last days off from work, was very impressed. I can vouch for the 4Plus I have printed non stop flawless prints in all materials including nylon with ease with it. Bearing on nozzle is rock solid, no issues. I have printed some very large prints in it, and Qidi did release fix for the tiny area on large print where some of hot air chamber gets blocked a bit, not fully. Very easy also to add a deflector plate into air exit on this chamber outlet which deflects air up at 80 degrees and some downwards at like 25 degrees so no matter what never can be blocked, but QIDI did send a firmware fix that should work fine.
well done, i'm really looking forward for the ams for my max3. qidi is not far from bambu anymore, not to mention other brands. open source, stable hardware, steady fixes, hq support.
I got my Plus4 two weeks ago, and I'm still in awe of how amazing the prints look! No issues, no problems, and no hassle at all. My apologies for hurting the "Bambu Bros" feelings with a very positive experience with the Qidi. 🤣
This is one of the best videos I have come across on this printer. Unfortunately, my QIDI Plus 4 broke down after just one day of printing. I received a thermostat error. I was able to order a new hotend and hotend motherboards for the printer. The new parts I might add are now version 1.1 and newer than what shipped with the printer. I have several hotends and nozzles now for spare parts. Do not print PLA with your top lid on/closed. I prop mine open with an add-on I have printed. Other addons needed are items like the poop-chute for the rear and larger fan plate for the motherboard. Qidi service is good, but it is by email only and might take a few days for them to respond.
Found your video - I work in the film industry for Lucas and Marvel etc. - This would be a great little machine to test our designs. I will check it out. Thanks for the demo and your time.
I really need to get one of these to test but sadly I'm already backlogged 😂. Their Q1 Pro had some comparable issues but was decent for the price point.
1st time watcher of your channel because i just bought 2 of these because my K1 Max's suck, lol. I had to lose 20% of the cost to restock those horrible machines, but i think i made the right choice even though these have that whole overheating thing. i just want to say i subscribed to you channel because: a) your very well articulated in your thought processes. b) informative is putting it lightly. c) way more versed in hotter materials than me. d) pretty damn cute, lol thanks for a refreshingly good half an hour TH-cam time! keep it up, your killin' it! P.s. I hope that wasnt creep as not my intention.
Thanks for the review I am looking at getting a printer for some larger items I am definitely interested in this printer now after watching your review
Hey!! Do you have a dedicated room for your 3d printers? If so, do you use any type of fumes removal or you just put them to print and leave the room? I am interested to print using ASA but i heard that the fumes are strong, Thank you for your great work!!!
I got mine some weeks ago and it is a great machine. Will only use it for parts that won’t fit on a Bambu though. For one simple reason. The bed takes sooooo much time to heat up! My guess was it is dc, but you say it is like 400w, I really can’t wrap my head around why it is so “slow” in this regard
The bed is considerably thicker in the X-Plus 4 to provide a flatter surface. As such, it takes longer to reach desired indicated temp and even longer to properly heat soak.
So many of the parts of this printer resemble Bambu parts and even fonts printed on them. Even the drag chain and PTFE tube looks the same as my X1C. My first printer was a Qidi iMates so I do like their products. Sadly the actual work flow using my AMS still looks to be superior on my Bambu even though the actual functions and the size of the Qidi is superior. The X1C has the same problem with the PTFE tube so I printed a riser with additional lighting. The gray plastic replaced the beige plastics in tech that discolored so much. The gray discolored less under UV light which is why it was used. For most UPS units, you want to keep the load less than 80% or you will have some issues with brown outs on the units.
Regarding your UPS, their batteries do begin to fail over time. Might be in your best interest to remove the batteries and test them individually. FYI, UPS batteries are often replaceable.
I’ve been deliberating over which printer to buy, and your video was instrumental in helping me make my decision. The clarity and attention to detail were truly impressive. I especially appreciated the way you installed the screws for the spooler backplate in an X pattern-it brought a smile to my face. Out of curiosity, do you happen to have an engineering background?
Great review. Been watching these. I'll be waiting to see how the AMS for this is. Which will be probably in Q1, along with Bambus newest, and decided then. Wish this was a bit bigger. Hopefully Bambus will be to make the choice easy....
23:55 wow I've actually never heard someone give real reasons for preferring glass. Everyone just seems to say "glass better than plastic" and not explain. I always thought the glass was a downgrade from the Q1 Pro since it's heavier and less shatter resistant, but I didn't realize there are actual benefits
Thank you so much for such great video, I finally pull the trigger and bought the QIDI 4 (*QIDI also sent the replacement part for 110v heater issue), anyway ... how do I import your settings for ASA? thanks!
Yes that is when I bought my 2 xplus 3s but I don't think this will be getting much as it just came out whereas xplus 3 came out earlier in the year last year.
Hi, great presentation. Which of your Qidi printers do you think gives the most consistent quality with ABS? What hotend, bed and chamber temps do you usually print ABS at? Thanks
The heater vent comes out the front facing the print bed, could you just cut the left and right side of the vent open so it blows out there if the front is blocked?
I been waiting to get in the 3D Printer..and welp..looks like it has become affordable. Is the time spent usually the average for prints like yours? Thank you so much.
I actually have the X-Max 3 and have done some modifications with it (like converting to a Revo hotend). I realy see forward to the planed colour changer and hope it includes a filament dryer (like the ACE pro from Anycubic). As the Plus 4 uses Klipper like the X-Max 3 I am pretty sure the Colour Box would be able to be used with the X-3 series also. The problem with the X-3´s of course is the missing fillament cutter. However, as I converted the hotend to a Revo, this should not be a problem. On the Prusa mk3(s(+)) filament unload left quite nice easy to reload filament tips after changing the e3d v6 to a Revo Six (normal flow). So by converting the hotend to a Revo, you can use high flow Nozzle (very ugly filament tip on unload, not reloadable without cut) for single colour/material prints and normal flow (perfect filament tip on unload for dry PLA and ABS/ASA) for colourchange without cut&poo. While I like all theese AMS/ACE/whatsoever ready2use colourchangers, I realy do not understand why none of theese manufacturers offer an easy to swap hotend with normal flow and integrated heatbreak/nozzle combo. Cut&poo does not only waste a lot of filament, but also a lot of time. On a Bambulab printer (X1C/P1P/P1S) filament change including priming takes between 1:30 and 1:50 (from the last second printed in the object with the last filament to the first second printed with the new). On a Prusa mk3 with MMU2 this needs about 0:40, on a mk4 with MMU3 about 0:30. Quite a difference. The Plus 4 seems a logical upgrade to the X-Plus 3. Actually the X-3 series is quite nice already. The heater is improved (and AC now, on the X-Max 3 it was 24V DC). The new belts are nice. The nozzle cleaning is nice (but only needed for auto-z-offset and later nice for cut&poo). On my X-Max 3 I only had one real complain: The z-bearings were not high quality, some very bad noises apeare and the layerhights were not constant. After changeing the bearings to misumi everything worked perfect. Have you had any problems with the bearings on the Plus 4?
I recommend the Sovol SV08 to a coworker. He called me a month later trying to sell it to me cause he had a Bambu on the way cause he had to faff with it too much. 😬 lol I was thinking of picking up one of these after his experience with the Sovol. If Bambu made a big rig like this one id buy that instead.
I had problems with mine right out of the box. Hopefully I have them solved but if you want a printer that isn't fussy and doesn't require hours of problem solving this machine isn't it. In contrast my P1S has worked right out of the box with only 1 failed print out of 100. I only got the Plus4 for the larger build plate. If you can wait, skip this and get the Bambu when it comes out.
great video but how much more is your electric bill a month like $50 or $100 more because a lot of people don't tell you that you will see a little jump in your electric bill just asking
Great video. I haven’t had the greatest experience with qidi x max 3, but I’m very curious to hear your thoughts and experiences with that Creality K2 plus
Im so confused now! Im considering Qidi Plus 4, Max3 and Creality K1C, K1 Max... I just want to print and not have to constantly work on the printer or troubleshoot problems
I wouldn't do any of the creality options. Price for performance isn't there. The P1S is on sale and is basically the same as any other Bambu lab printer. Otherwise the Qidis are great, with chances that you get a lemon higher than creality. The Q1 Pro Qidi is also very cheap right now and is great with more quirks.
I have one and want to print abs and asa helmets but dont have a good way to vent the fumes besides putting the whole machine on my balcony, and its a bit heavy to be lugging in and out.
Glad I watched your excellent video. I make alot of parts that have holes of different sizes in them. With the lower end printers, those holes often are too big or small. I can adjust in the slicer but often times I need to adjust the size in the stl model. Does this printer make all dimensions correct? I really like the Form 4 info page that says "for parts that fit." Don't like the $5000 usd price tag. Thanks!!
Sometimes it’ll vary depending on filament as well, for example ABS is known to shrink. But that being said, I just used it to print the top of a helmet stand to fit onto a 1” dowel, the hole was only .02mm larger than the pole itself should have been, and it fit perfectly. So yes, I’d say it can print with pretty great dimensional accuracy.
I had the chamber circulation fan running at 40% and I smelt nothing. I also have an active carbon air purifier set up in my shop but from experience, the smell of ABS varies greatly depending on brand. I’ve mostly used Polymaker so when I tried a different kind it was pretty shocking 😂.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks for the reply. Looks like this is gonna be my next printer. I might wait a few more weeks and see if they work out the chamber heater and a couple small things I've seen on other channels.
@@MMsPropShop does your air filtration setup push the air outside? I have everything prepped to do that here (for airbrushing you want the negative pressure). Only have an 2021 Ender 3 S1 Pro but looking at a P1S (or X1C) & I'm thinking of putting the air output outside.
Those tiny built-in filters don’t do the job. When I print ASA or with resin I put the printer in an enclosure (from Fungdo) that’s connected to an AC Infinity Air Carbon Filter “with Premium Australian Virgin Charcoal, for Inline Duct Fan” (both purchased from Amazon). The enclosure’s seal and inline fan are good enough to create a pressure differential so no VOCs leak out. The filter is more than large enough to clean the air passing through it. Filament (single roll or AMS) is outside the enclosure and feeds in through a PTFE tube.
This was a really great review with lots of insights on the setup and calibration process. I love it when creators such as yourself include "FYIs" like how the one screen might not be tight and to check, because I'm not sure I would find out about something any other way. So, thank you for not only informing us but making she we know about potential gotchas. It was also interesting to see how the supports resulted in a worse print on the Mandalorian helmet. That one as me scratching my head. I do have one favor to ask. I freely admit I'm old (Gen X) and that this is likely a generational thing, but could you add a little more of a pause between your sentences? In trying to figure out why I felt compelled to ask, it almost feels like you aren't even giving yourself a moment to breath, and I know you are and it's just editing, but I subconsciously start getting stressed out that you aren't breathing to the point where it almost feels like one long run-on sentence. If you need an example, I just picked 4:45 in the recording and the sentences were like rapid fire for the next little bit. Again, I completely admit this is likely my own hangup, but I figured it didn't hurt to ask/make the suggestion politely. 😁
I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering, QIDI Plus 4...or BambuLabs X1C? Obviously, the Plus 4 has a large build volume, but if that difference is removed...?
$400 less, at least before the current sale. Larger print area. Heated chamber. Higher nozzle temp. Wider belts with a finer pitch for less FVA. Nearly stock Klipper. No account requirements. Great customer support. Those are the main advantages to me.
Looks like it might have been a little lift on those corner(s). I never noticed it until you pointed it out, even when I installed the piece to the rest of the base so I guess it wasn’t too bad 😂
@diabeticjedi7951 haha, completely fine! You’ve got a great eye. That particular PLA is some of the toughest stuff I’ve ever used to the point that I’m sometimes surprised it can even be printable so I’m not surprised there was some corner lifting lol
I’m not sure if it’s been proven/confirmed weather the issue was just down to a few faulty units or across the board. Regardless, there was a firmware update issued that lowers the power output to the chamber heater (mitigating any possible safety issues for now) and it seems like they’re issuing upgraded replacement parts to anyone affected.
I have 2 X-MAX and 3 X-MAX3 printers. Most of my printing is ABS. Do you have any suggestions on getting a good finish? I just updated software to version 1.1.7 and the printers seem to run much slower. Any ideas?
My 3 month old plus4 has been a pain, not quite a nightmare, but a huge pain. Costomer support has been nothing but auto generated responce emails, pointing me to the plus4 wiki. I've thrown away at least a $100 worth of filament due to failed prints. The tangle sensor works ~75% of the time, the run out sensor I have yet to get it to work, but the issue now is a wandering Z height. Don't think the auto Z is working, and I've had to adjust the Z offset from .045 to .2 all within about 6 prints. If I could get a responce at all from QIDI about the chamber heater issue and the new Z offset issue, I could give them a pass. But as it sits, buyer beware. Seems like a crap shoot, you get a good one, great, you get a bad one, tough luck.
Not intentionally. Just seemed like the natural place to include it since it was more of last minute addition. I would hope if you’re seriously considering purchasing a printer you’d watch an entire video.
There is a firmware update already out that will stop the heater from trigger the high temp limit when blocked. For the end of the build it will auto shut off the heater and coast on the heat remaining in the chamber.
This looks like pretty great printer, but it's currently at a pretty bad price. The qidi plus 4 is currently at $799 when for $849 you can get a bambu p1s WITH an AMS or for $599 you can get just a p1s OR for $779 you could get an sv08 with enclosure and touch screen (which is basically a 350mm voron v2). sure the qidi plus 4 has a couple tricks that those others don't (like chamber heating, but that's unnecessary as the heated bed is plenty for chamber heating if you preheat for a few minutes)... please note, I do NOT think the qidi plus 4 is a bad machine, I just think that it's at the wrong price point. if qidi sold this for $599, I think it would be very competitive.
@@cbbbbbbbbbbbb what materials that this hotend (300c max) would be able to print that would require a heater. Heck the voron community, who are known to be a bit extreme, have outlawed even the discussion of chamber heaters due to safety concerns. And these are folks who sometimes build insulated machines to print stuff like peek.
@joshhardin666 plenty. Abs for instance does much better in a heated chamber. It keeps the warping down. You can print abs on a bog standard ender 3, but an insulated chamber is worth it for the reliabilty. For mine, I just put a box around it and works well enough. I do have a voron style printer as well that I custom made panels for.
@@joshhardin666 ABS, PC, PCTG, NYLON 6, NYLON12 all failed my layer adhesion testing for end use parts when printed without a heated chamber, but were mostly acceptable at 65c. Also even ABS doesn't even reach full strength until you print it in a 90c chamber.
I purchased this machine about a month ago and have not been able to get a successful print. I am not new to 3d printing, but I have never had issues like this before that couldn't be easily resolved. The first layer is the worst I have ever seen, with low spots here and there and others that look fine. I completed all the calibrations, temp, flow, pressure advance with no issue. I contacted Qidi but they say this is normal and that it won't be an issue, after a few layers you wont notice it. I also notice that the nozzle scrapes against previous layers, leaving small debris and knocks over all tree supports. following their last suggestion, I got the blob of death, and I have no idea how to even start fixing that mess. Qidi said that was my fault for not using adhesive, really? PLA on a textured PEI build plate? the nozzle digging into the previous layer adhered to the nozzle and ripped the entire first layer off the build plate and created the infamous blob of death. I explained that I get failed print after failed print and sent pics. I have been emailing support for weeks now, but they only give generic responses, like raise the bed temp by 10 degrees. Can you give any advice on what I can try, to fix the issue, Qidi will not acknowledge that there is an issue with the machine, thank you.
I found this video that goes into more detail and also talks about levelling the bed. th-cam.com/video/wc2QbFA-sgQ/w-d-xo.html Also is there a newer firmware to fix the issue I wonder?
Hey everyone 👋🏻 Since posting this video, there have been some safety concerns brought to light about the SSR for machines in countries with 120v power (like Canada and the US). I unfortunately can’t add this directly to the video now, but here is an excellent breakdown: th-cam.com/video/JARwXIiTbxM/w-d-xo.html
As of posting this, there has been a firmware update issued that was thought to have mitigated any issues, but some people’s tests have found it to be insufficient. There have also been some reports that QIDI has already started the process of sending out replacements parts to resolve the safety issues to anyone with a machine in the affected 120v countries.
You should definitely look into your chamber heater circuit board as your experience with your battery backup was telling you that likely it was drawing more than 400W, and even 500W as you say your battery backup is 900w.
I contacted Qidi after having heard about the issue, and within a week I received a replaced board. (I've printed nearly two spools of ABS since getting the printer.) Just installed the new supply a few minutes ago.
Yes, Qidi will send all users the newly engineered SSR board that addresses the issue. Unfortunately, the newest version of this printer still don't appear to come with the new SSR already installed. But it addresses the issue.
Hey everyone, sorry about the quality on the original upload. All fixed now. Thanks for letting me know and for all of your continuous support towards my content!
Your content is so dang good! And I’ve really got to try printing some props in abs & asa. They look so good off this printer!
Thanks! I’d start with ABS first. Even though ASA is supposed to be a very similar filament, it’s the one that still likes to give me problems from time to time.
Will you test the qidi plus4, looking forward to it very much
Your review is very clear and detailed. Thank you for your efforts. I am trying to make a decision between this printer and the P1S from Bambu. This has helped me for sure. I am leaning toward this printer for the 370 degree hotend and the optional tungsten carbide nozzles assembly. We will print mainly nylon and PP on this machine.
I got mine last Wednesday and it hasn't stopped running since without a single issue with PLA, Silk, PETG, and printing abs flawlessly right now.
Are you on 110 or 220? If you're on 110 PLEASE open the back cover and inspect the chamber heater board!! It's a fire hazard!
how? Did you have to fine tune every filament before printing?
Love the amount of effort you put into your videos . Keep it up . Been burning through your channel learning alot of new methods.
i seen probably around 8 videos on this printer, You did the best job on reviewing this printer, love that your a star wars fan.
@ M.M's Prop Shop. A couple of suggestions with this printer. Use the Orca slicer 2.2 beta 2 or later. There is Plus4 profile in it. Orca slicer also does a better job with thin walls and scarf z seams. It's just better.
For best outcome you still need to do some tinkering with plastic profiles. Also, make sure the belts have similar tension. If not, do correct them. And clean & lubricate the rods after the printer is settled in (in about 100 hours of print time).
Really enjoyed the level of detail in your explanations. Appreciate the effort!
Wow some wildly impressive prints in this video! Extremely impressed. I think you've done more actual testing than any other reviewer. I have a Plus4 and I have been extremely happy as well. I mostly do functional automotive prints and I just printed some PP-GF30 which came out awesome. ABS has also been great for me. The precision I've been getting is wild. All the way down to 0.01mm clearances on print in place bearings I designed. I couldn't ask for better. Perfect dimensional accuracy as well. Definitely hope to tackle some bigger prints in high end filaments in the future. It's really amazing what this machine can do stock from tiny high quality prints to large objects from engineering type filaments.
P.S. I know I'm old, but I love vintage electronics gray plastic. :')
Ole school technophile here. Been a geek since Windows 95. Yeah. There was a win 95. Haven't yet invested in a 3d printer but have been following its trajectory since the first crude ones came out in maker space places. All DIY. Don't underestimate your flow in about your content. Yours is the best review I have seen on thus particular printer and have subscribed. Covered the tech stuff and good feedback. Thanx.
I really like your videos. The cadence is spot on, your candor is welcome.
This looks really solid. If Bambu came out with a printer over 300mm, I'd buy it right away. But I can’t wait any longer, so next up, I'll be choosing between the QIDI Plus 4 and FLsun S1 Pro.
Rumors of an H2D model with two heads but when avail no one knows.
thanks for the detailed explanation and print test. i usually print helmets or display pieces, so this was really helpful to see,while the qidi plus4 didn’t nail the helmet on the first try, it definitely improved after some adjustments, i’m curious about how long a print like this actually takes, if it’s on the longer side, i might explore other options, like flsun, i’ve seen a few users mention shorter print times and decent efficiency, which has me a bit interested to look into it more
It is insane how far we've come. Before Bambu, there wasn't many if any printers that just worked well out of the box.
To be fair, Qidi was making core XY printers with very similar function and construction before Bambu Lab existed. They just were not very well known. All the way back in 2018 the original X-Plus and X-Max got pretty good reviews and were extremely capable. They just never got a ton of hype. Not going to deny that Bambu Lab pushed the industry forward in a lot of ways, but Qidi is just still doing their thing, listening to customers, and also embracing more open source. The heated chamber and high nozzle temps are what really draws someone like me who focuses on functional prints.
That has been Prusas thing for a bunch of years, long before Bambu came into the market. My 4yo prusa still just works, i never do any tuning or modding, it just prints well.
Prusa's kind of were the "works out of the box" champions for quite a while.
Thanks for the review again, you were the reason i got 2 xplus 3s last year and i already bought the 4 on the day they went live. I just need to actually take the time to clean my print room and rearrange my computer desk and set up the rack that it and my creality k2 is gonna go on so I can finally set up my plus 4 instead of sitting on the floor in my living room.
I clicked this video because I love helmets and for the most part I haven’t seen many helmets get 3d printed in one piece, that are wearable. But this turned into a very good video on 3d printers which left me knowings much more. Thank you.
as usual, a great video ! Thank's a lot for your profiles ! I'll be an Qidi Plus 4 user in 2 days ! The jump from an 2018 creality CR10S is huge ;) !
Only thing that I'm interested in this printer for is the higher hot end temperature. that will really open up a few more print options.
Can pretty much print any consumer grade material. Just can't do some of the crazy engineering stuff.
1. Thank you for being a fellow nerd
2. KIck ass review, and the review with pros and cons to different filaments was sure helpful
This thing looks pretty solid. But man if Bambu made a 300mm+ printer I’d buy it instantly
I think that Bambu is really missing out on a entire segment of customers sticking with sub 300mm build area printers.
Hopefully when they do it’ll be a bigger jump than to just 300mm. 350mm+ 🤞🏻
@@MMsPropShopI agree. 350x350 would fit almost all cosplay helmets. 400 would be awesome but I doubt Bambu will go that big.
@@MMsPropShop That's entirely why I've got my preorder for the Creality K2, it's got a few extra bells and whistles, but the 350mm cubed build volume is finally answering what the community has been crying out for since the BambuX1C was announced.
I'm still happy with my 300×300×400 artillery sidewinder😂 it just keeps working no drama
Cool review - i think one of the best reviews of this machine. It pretty much covered the stuff that matters.
Im currently deciding between this or a resin printer as my first 3d printer in about 7 years. Whatever way I go the current options are so far ahead of the offerings from 5 years ago, its amazing!!
As someone that just finally replaced a Prusa MK2 that I was tired of fiddling with in exactly the way you are talking about:
Don't do resin unless you are absolutely sure you need it. The fumes are a problem. The material is a struggle. The prints are more complicated and prone to problems, settings are super important and so are temps and the post processing is a bastard.
I love the quality and the detail I get on resin but it made me go back and buy a good FDM.
I was gonna get this but I'm waiting for them to work out the kinks and bought a used Bamby Labs printer.
FDM has come a super long way. Just get a nice core XY like this or P1S and stay happy. Resin is for those that really need resin. It's practically full scale manufacturing.
You're my hero and learned so much from your vids. I hope to get really good at this stuff.
I have had mine for about 2 weeks and I really wanted to do a helmet and seeing you do them I see I will have fun with this! mostly been doing a few things here and there but gonna go for broke and build my Mando armor. Enjoying the video!
About your problems with the battery backup: usually the ratings of the UPS are the peak wattage not the continuous wattage, so my guess the UPS is not big enough.
Love the props you make! Great job on review! They have the update which will fix the bed and heater block issue. Love my 4Plus have been printing nonstop on this unit now since late September and it is a joy! I also have the Q1 Pro and the Xsmart3 all get a regular non stop workout! My Xsmart3 is smaller no heated chamber but does a killer job with ABS.....went through two full rolls of abs on it on my last days off from work, was very impressed. I can vouch for the 4Plus I have printed non stop flawless prints in all materials including nylon with ease with it. Bearing on nozzle is rock solid, no issues. I have printed some very large prints in it, and Qidi did release fix for the tiny area on large print where some of hot air chamber gets blocked a bit, not fully. Very easy also to add a deflector plate into air exit on this chamber outlet which deflects air up at 80 degrees and some downwards at like 25 degrees so no matter what never can be blocked, but QIDI did send a firmware fix that should work fine.
Excellent demo! Thank you for sharing this! 👍
well done, i'm really looking forward for the ams for my max3. qidi is not far from bambu anymore, not to mention other brands. open source, stable hardware, steady fixes, hq support.
Those support pieces are very organic looking
I got my Plus4 two weeks ago, and I'm still in awe of how amazing the prints look! No issues, no problems, and no hassle at all. My apologies for hurting the "Bambu Bros" feelings with a very positive experience with the Qidi. 🤣
This is one of the best videos I have come across on this printer. Unfortunately, my QIDI Plus 4 broke down after just one day of printing. I received a thermostat error. I was able to order a new hotend and hotend motherboards for the printer. The new parts I might add are now version 1.1 and newer than what shipped with the printer. I have several hotends and nozzles now for spare parts. Do not print PLA with your top lid on/closed. I prop mine open with an add-on I have printed. Other addons needed are items like the poop-chute for the rear and larger fan plate for the motherboard. Qidi service is good, but it is by email only and might take a few days for them to respond.
Really love my Plus4! It is absolutely amazing! Many issues users reported can be simply fixed. I don't really care.
Found your video - I work in the film industry for Lucas and Marvel etc. - This would be a great little machine to test our designs. I will check it out. Thanks for the demo and your time.
You're able to go into the camera configuration and adjust the image to actually be 1920x1080 if you wanted. I am really enjoying the plus 4 so far.
I don't know about ASA, but when I turn on ironing for ABS i increase the ironing flow 1-2% and I get a much more consistent surface finish.
I really need to get one of these to test but sadly I'm already backlogged 😂. Their Q1 Pro had some comparable issues but was decent for the price point.
1st time watcher of your channel because i just bought 2 of these because my K1 Max's suck, lol. I had to lose 20% of the cost to restock those horrible machines, but i think i made the right choice even though these have that whole overheating thing.
i just want to say i subscribed to you channel because:
a) your very well articulated in your thought processes.
b) informative is putting it lightly.
c) way more versed in hotter materials than me.
d) pretty damn cute, lol
thanks for a refreshingly good half an hour TH-cam time! keep it up, your killin' it!
P.s. I hope that wasnt creep as not my intention.
This really needed to be released aftee ive just gotten my bambu p1s
Thanks for the review I am looking at getting a printer for some larger items I am definitely interested in this printer now after watching your review
Hey!! Do you have a dedicated room for your 3d printers? If so, do you use any type of fumes removal or you just put them to print and leave the room? I am interested to print using ASA but i heard that the fumes are strong, Thank you for your great work!!!
I got mine some weeks ago and it is a great machine. Will only use it for parts that won’t fit on a Bambu though. For one simple reason. The bed takes sooooo much time to heat up! My guess was it is dc, but you say it is like 400w, I really can’t wrap my head around why it is so “slow” in this regard
The bed is considerably thicker in the X-Plus 4 to provide a flatter surface. As such, it takes longer to reach desired indicated temp and even longer to properly heat soak.
@@ryanernst4675 I realise that it is a lot of mass, but still, 400w....
The bambu X1/P1 have aproximatly 700W bed heaters at 230V
So many of the parts of this printer resemble Bambu parts and even fonts printed on them. Even the drag chain and PTFE tube looks the same as my X1C. My first printer was a Qidi iMates so I do like their products. Sadly the actual work flow using my AMS still looks to be superior on my Bambu even though the actual functions and the size of the Qidi is superior. The X1C has the same problem with the PTFE tube so I printed a riser with additional lighting. The gray plastic replaced the beige plastics in tech that discolored so much. The gray discolored less under UV light which is why it was used. For most UPS units, you want to keep the load less than 80% or you will have some issues with brown outs on the units.
Very nice channel! I like the honest opinion about the printer.
Thanks for the shout-out! Another ABS junky entered the chat 😄
Thank you for the excellent videos going in depth on some of the issues! Super well explained and helpful 👍🏻
@@MMsPropShop 🙏🏻🙏🏻
I like that the screen is easy to replace.
Regarding your UPS, their batteries do begin to fail over time. Might be in your best interest to remove the batteries and test them individually. FYI, UPS batteries are often replaceable.
Hi. I love your videos. One way to fix the tube touching the glass. Is 3d print a glass riaser type that fits the actual glass base and printer.
I’ve been deliberating over which printer to buy, and your video was instrumental in helping me make my decision. The clarity and attention to detail were truly impressive. I especially appreciated the way you installed the screws for the spooler backplate in an X pattern-it brought a smile to my face. Out of curiosity, do you happen to have an engineering background?
Great review. Been watching these. I'll be waiting to see how the AMS for this is. Which will be probably in Q1, along with Bambus newest, and decided then. Wish this was a bit bigger. Hopefully Bambus will be to make the choice easy....
Great review, very detailed. I am curious to see how it does long term vs the other flagships.
23:55 wow I've actually never heard someone give real reasons for preferring glass. Everyone just seems to say "glass better than plastic" and not explain. I always thought the glass was a downgrade from the Q1 Pro since it's heavier and less shatter resistant, but I didn't realize there are actual benefits
yes, it will be my next 3D printer
This printer seems fantastic but I wish they would have pushed the z axis just a little farther. Seems weird they didn't go for a clean 300mm cube
Hi! Do you know how to put the internal camera to work so I can see it on my iPhone? thank you for your time?
Do you think it will be challenging to create renderings for someone like me who is new to rendering?
Thank you so much for such great video, I finally pull the trigger and bought the QIDI 4 (*QIDI also sent the replacement part for 110v heater issue), anyway ... how do I import your settings for ASA? thanks!
Has QIDi done any Black Friday discounts on their printers in the past?
Yes that is when I bought my 2 xplus 3s but I don't think this will be getting much as it just came out whereas xplus 3 came out earlier in the year last year.
I guess there may not be discounts on new printers or there may be a small discount on Black Friday.
Awesome review, I might be chugging my V400 out for this one.
But why would I get this instead of a Bambu?
Hi, great presentation. Which of your Qidi printers do you think gives the most consistent quality with ABS? What hotend, bed and chamber temps do you usually print ABS at? Thanks
The heater vent comes out the front facing the print bed, could you just cut the left and right side of the vent open so it blows out there if the front is blocked?
I been waiting to get in the 3D Printer..and welp..looks like it has become affordable. Is the time spent usually the average for prints like yours? Thank you so much.
Hi there. Im interested in 3d printing. Dont have any idea how so i watched your vids. May i ask, where or how can i get the design to print?
I actually have the X-Max 3 and have done some modifications with it (like converting to a Revo hotend). I realy see forward to the planed colour changer and hope it includes a filament dryer (like the ACE pro from Anycubic). As the Plus 4 uses Klipper like the X-Max 3 I am pretty sure the Colour Box would be able to be used with the X-3 series also.
The problem with the X-3´s of course is the missing fillament cutter. However, as I converted the hotend to a Revo, this should not be a problem. On the Prusa mk3(s(+)) filament unload left quite nice easy to reload filament tips after changing the e3d v6 to a Revo Six (normal flow). So by converting the hotend to a Revo, you can use high flow Nozzle (very ugly filament tip on unload, not reloadable without cut) for single colour/material prints and normal flow (perfect filament tip on unload for dry PLA and ABS/ASA) for colourchange without cut&poo.
While I like all theese AMS/ACE/whatsoever ready2use colourchangers, I realy do not understand why none of theese manufacturers offer an easy to swap hotend with normal flow and integrated heatbreak/nozzle combo. Cut&poo does not only waste a lot of filament, but also a lot of time. On a Bambulab printer (X1C/P1P/P1S) filament change including priming takes between 1:30 and 1:50 (from the last second printed in the object with the last filament to the first second printed with the new). On a Prusa mk3 with MMU2 this needs about 0:40, on a mk4 with MMU3 about 0:30. Quite a difference.
The Plus 4 seems a logical upgrade to the X-Plus 3. Actually the X-3 series is quite nice already. The heater is improved (and AC now, on the X-Max 3 it was 24V DC). The new belts are nice. The nozzle cleaning is nice (but only needed for auto-z-offset and later nice for cut&poo). On my X-Max 3 I only had one real complain: The z-bearings were not high quality, some very bad noises apeare and the layerhights were not constant. After changeing the bearings to misumi everything worked perfect.
Have you had any problems with the bearings on the Plus 4?
I recommend the Sovol SV08 to a coworker. He called me a month later trying to sell it to me cause he had a Bambu on the way cause he had to faff with it too much. 😬 lol I was thinking of picking up one of these after his experience with the Sovol.
If Bambu made a big rig like this one id buy that instead.
I had problems with mine right out of the box. Hopefully I have them solved but if you want a printer that isn't fussy and doesn't require hours of problem solving this machine isn't it. In contrast my P1S has worked right out of the box with only 1 failed print out of 100. I only got the Plus4 for the larger build plate. If you can wait, skip this and get the Bambu when it comes out.
Good review, thanks.
great video but how much more is your electric bill a month like $50 or $100 more because a lot of people don't tell you that you will see a little jump in your electric bill just asking
Great video. I haven’t had the greatest experience with qidi x max 3, but I’m very curious to hear your thoughts and experiences with that Creality K2 plus
I must have gotten a bad one,printed great for a month and still havent been able to print anything on the max 3 that i bought in november
I was wondering if the quality of this printer is comparable to Bamboo Labs and price difference?
Nice video review. One suggestion - consider making your final thoughts more concise.
I have a couple X1C and I'm waiting for the new Bambu that has been pushed out to Q1 2025.
I have been wanting to get into 3d printing. Would you say that this is a good one for beginners?
How would you say the print quality is compared to the qidi 3 plus and max?
Im so confused now! Im considering Qidi Plus 4, Max3 and Creality K1C, K1 Max... I just want to print and not have to constantly work on the printer or troubleshoot problems
I wouldn't do any of the creality options. Price for performance isn't there.
The P1S is on sale and is basically the same as any other Bambu lab printer. Otherwise the Qidis are great, with chances that you get a lemon higher than creality.
The Q1 Pro Qidi is also very cheap right now and is great with more quirks.
Can you use a handheld scanner to scan things you want to print
Would you say you would value the bigger print volume of a X Max 3 over the print quality of the Plus 4?
Why did you choose this over the max3? Would print helmets in one shot.
Have they fixed the print head glue issue? Seems they glued the print head to the bearings.
I have one and want to print abs and asa helmets but dont have a good way to vent the fumes besides putting the whole machine on my balcony, and its a bit heavy to be lugging in and out.
Glad I watched your excellent video. I make alot of parts that have holes of different sizes in them. With the lower end printers, those holes often are too big or small. I can adjust in the slicer but often times I need to adjust the size in the stl model. Does this printer make all dimensions correct? I really like the Form 4 info page that says "for parts that fit." Don't like the $5000 usd price tag.
Thanks!!
Sometimes it’ll vary depending on filament as well, for example ABS is known to shrink. But that being said, I just used it to print the top of a helmet stand to fit onto a 1” dowel, the hole was only .02mm larger than the pole itself should have been, and it fit perfectly. So yes, I’d say it can print with pretty great dimensional accuracy.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks for taking the time to write me back on this.
Once the fire hazard is fixed I will be getting one forsure.
Can you comment on the level of ABS smell from this machine? Does the filter work well? I'm thinking of this being my next printer .
I had the chamber circulation fan running at 40% and I smelt nothing. I also have an active carbon air purifier set up in my shop but from experience, the smell of ABS varies greatly depending on brand. I’ve mostly used Polymaker so when I tried a different kind it was pretty shocking 😂.
@@MMsPropShop Thanks for the reply. Looks like this is gonna be my next printer. I might wait a few more weeks and see if they work out the chamber heater and a couple small things I've seen on other channels.
@@MMsPropShop does your air filtration setup push the air outside? I have everything prepped to do that here (for airbrushing you want the negative pressure). Only have an 2021 Ender 3 S1 Pro but looking at a P1S (or X1C) & I'm thinking of putting the air output outside.
Those tiny built-in filters don’t do the job. When I print ASA or with resin I put the printer in an enclosure (from Fungdo) that’s connected to an AC Infinity Air Carbon Filter “with Premium Australian Virgin Charcoal, for Inline Duct Fan” (both purchased from Amazon). The enclosure’s seal and inline fan are good enough to create a pressure differential so no VOCs leak out. The filter is more than large enough to clean the air passing through it. Filament (single roll or AMS) is outside the enclosure and feeds in through a PTFE tube.
This was a really great review with lots of insights on the setup and calibration process. I love it when creators such as yourself include "FYIs" like how the one screen might not be tight and to check, because I'm not sure I would find out about something any other way. So, thank you for not only informing us but making she we know about potential gotchas.
It was also interesting to see how the supports resulted in a worse print on the Mandalorian helmet. That one as me scratching my head.
I do have one favor to ask. I freely admit I'm old (Gen X) and that this is likely a generational thing, but could you add a little more of a pause between your sentences? In trying to figure out why I felt compelled to ask, it almost feels like you aren't even giving yourself a moment to breath, and I know you are and it's just editing, but I subconsciously start getting stressed out that you aren't breathing to the point where it almost feels like one long run-on sentence. If you need an example, I just picked 4:45 in the recording and the sentences were like rapid fire for the next little bit. Again, I completely admit this is likely my own hangup, but I figured it didn't hurt to ask/make the suggestion politely. 😁
I'm sure I'm not the only one wondering, QIDI Plus 4...or BambuLabs X1C? Obviously, the Plus 4 has a large build volume, but if that difference is removed...?
$400 less, at least before the current sale. Larger print area. Heated chamber. Higher nozzle temp. Wider belts with a finer pitch for less FVA. Nearly stock Klipper. No account requirements. Great customer support. Those are the main advantages to me.
I had one. It was too loud and big.
Still that way?
@14:32 is the model supposed to be tapered in like that or is that from the filament lifting off the bed?
Looks like it might have been a little lift on those corner(s). I never noticed it until you pointed it out, even when I installed the piece to the rest of the base so I guess it wasn’t too bad 😂
@@MMsPropShop lol I feel bad now pointing it out.
@diabeticjedi7951 haha, completely fine! You’ve got a great eye. That particular PLA is some of the toughest stuff I’ve ever used to the point that I’m sometimes surprised it can even be printable so I’m not surprised there was some corner lifting lol
Is the Bambu Lab X1 still worth it?
what do you do with all the scrap filament, is it recycled or thrown in trash? You seem to generate a lot.
All 3D printers and post production cleanup generate a massive amount of micro plastics.
How is the nozzle swapping experience?
Is the 110/120v issue a real threat, in terms of fire safety, that i've been hearing about? (usa usage)
I’m not sure if it’s been proven/confirmed weather the issue was just down to a few faulty units or across the board. Regardless, there was a firmware update issued that lowers the power output to the chamber heater (mitigating any possible safety issues for now) and it seems like they’re issuing upgraded replacement parts to anyone affected.
Can u print using the same file format as the sovol 06 uses.
I have 2 X-MAX and 3 X-MAX3 printers. Most of my printing is ABS. Do you have any suggestions on getting a good finish? I just updated software to version 1.1.7 and the printers seem to run much slower. Any ideas?
My 3 month old plus4 has been a pain, not quite a nightmare, but a huge pain. Costomer support has been nothing but auto generated responce emails, pointing me to the plus4 wiki. I've thrown away at least a $100 worth of filament due to failed prints. The tangle sensor works ~75% of the time, the run out sensor I have yet to get it to work, but the issue now is a wandering Z height. Don't think the auto Z is working, and I've had to adjust the Z offset from .045 to .2 all within about 6 prints. If I could get a responce at all from QIDI about the chamber heater issue and the new Z offset issue, I could give them a pass. But as it sits, buyer beware. Seems like a crap shoot, you get a good one, great, you get a bad one, tough luck.
The design issue with the heat being blocked in tall builds seems very significant-- and it is kind of hidden at the very end of this review.
Not intentionally. Just seemed like the natural place to include it since it was more of last minute addition. I would hope if you’re seriously considering purchasing a printer you’d watch an entire video.
There is a firmware update already out that will stop the heater from trigger the high temp limit when blocked. For the end of the build it will auto shut off the heater and coast on the heat remaining in the chamber.
This looks like pretty great printer, but it's currently at a pretty bad price. The qidi plus 4 is currently at $799 when for $849 you can get a bambu p1s WITH an AMS or for $599 you can get just a p1s OR for $779 you could get an sv08 with enclosure and touch screen (which is basically a 350mm voron v2). sure the qidi plus 4 has a couple tricks that those others don't (like chamber heating, but that's unnecessary as the heated bed is plenty for chamber heating if you preheat for a few minutes)... please note, I do NOT think the qidi plus 4 is a bad machine, I just think that it's at the wrong price point. if qidi sold this for $599, I think it would be very competitive.
There is a print quality comparison with X1C in the bambu forum. QIDI did a good job this time. The SV08 can not do it, and p1s is too small.
Chamber heating is absolutely critical for certain prints. If you need it, you need it, and this has it
@@cbbbbbbbbbbbb what materials that this hotend (300c max) would be able to print that would require a heater. Heck the voron community, who are known to be a bit extreme, have outlawed even the discussion of chamber heaters due to safety concerns. And these are folks who sometimes build insulated machines to print stuff like peek.
@joshhardin666 plenty. Abs for instance does much better in a heated chamber. It keeps the warping down. You can print abs on a bog standard ender 3, but an insulated chamber is worth it for the reliabilty. For mine, I just put a box around it and works well enough. I do have a voron style printer as well that I custom made panels for.
@@joshhardin666 ABS, PC, PCTG, NYLON 6, NYLON12 all failed my layer adhesion testing for end use parts when printed without a heated chamber, but were mostly acceptable at 65c. Also even ABS doesn't even reach full strength until you print it in a 90c chamber.
influenced. Purchased.
I purchased this machine about a month ago and have not been able to get a successful print. I am not new to 3d printing, but I have never had issues like this before that couldn't be easily resolved. The first layer is the worst I have ever seen, with low spots here and there and others that look fine. I completed all the calibrations, temp, flow, pressure advance with no issue. I contacted Qidi but they say this is normal and that it won't be an issue, after a few layers you wont notice it. I also notice that the nozzle scrapes against previous layers, leaving small debris and knocks over all tree supports. following their last suggestion, I got the blob of death, and I have no idea how to even start fixing that mess. Qidi said that was my fault for not using adhesive, really? PLA on a textured PEI build plate? the nozzle digging into the previous layer adhered to the nozzle and ripped the entire first layer off the build plate and created the infamous blob of death. I explained that I get failed print after failed print and sent pics. I have been emailing support for weeks now, but they only give generic responses, like raise the bed temp by 10 degrees. Can you give any advice on what I can try, to fix the issue, Qidi will not acknowledge that there is an issue with the machine, thank you.
I found this video that goes into more detail and also talks about levelling the bed.
th-cam.com/video/wc2QbFA-sgQ/w-d-xo.html
Also is there a newer firmware to fix the issue I wonder?
Sorry it seems YT is still automatically deleting my comments FOR NO REASON.
Love the way the motors sound all robotic n stuff,I wonder if that would be good ASMR,seems like it could get annoying after abit