It’s worth the extra effort just to not have to try and mess around with the clamps being in the way, it’s pretty tight under the car where the flex pipe is.
Thanks! They’re great cars but often cost too much to have repaired for what they’re worth so if I can help people keep them on the road affordably I’m happy!
I’m concerned the M8 heat shield bolts will not be strong enough because of the muffler heat and bouncing loads. Defo should have gone M12+ IMO. 🤣 Nice execution and I like the use of the jack for the reference point 👍🏻
@PBGarage yes sorry. I managed to jerry rig a flexible joint to attach to my tork and hated every second of getting it to catch. Still your video and ones like it are a service thank you
@rocknut144 thanks! Yeah the bolts are hard to get to and corrode very easily so I always end up punching the captive nuts off the back side with an air chisel, then I install new bolts+nuts when I reinstall, so the next time I’m doing the job they are easy to get out again.
I just found out my 2010 Brabus has the same issue. I guess that's what I'm tackling this weekend. I see you used 1.75" which is fine, but how long? I see 8 and 10". I feel I can just cut down the 10", but someone mentioned that the 10" is too long. And the material is SS so when you welded, did you weld SS or just normal MIG? I weld normal steel, but no TIG Capabilities as of yet but do you think the normal steel welding will hold up long enough or should I get it welded up SS? Great video by the way. Thanks
Thanks! If 8” includes the ends which you’ll be cutting and bending I think you’ll be ok. If the flexy part itself is 8” you may not have room to fit it in. I think the shorter the better as long as you have enough pipe to make up the difference.
Also, I used just mild steel to weld many many of these up. The welds always far outlast the replacement flex pipes, so I’ve never been worried about it. I’ve been using flux-core wire with a MIG, except no gas just the flux core in the wire.
I notice that you never show the removal or replacement of the flange bolt furthest from you. Could that be because that one is a real nightmare to get to? lol And that's also why I'm surprised you choose to refit the heat shield before re-attaching the manifold. It's much easier to do with the heat shield off.
I never touched the manifold, and both bolts at the flange for the muffler are a real pain, and mine were so rusted the bolts snapped on removal, and I punched the “captive” nuts out with a hammer, opting to replace with hex head bolts and normal nuts for ease of future removal. I thought I covered all that in the video but that was quite a long time ago.
I've been using 1.75" pipe, which a little bit larger than OEM, but it gets tricky because the inlet and oulets aren't the same size with the bends in the factory pipe. I got a pipe that was a bit shorter than 8" so that I had a bit more room to get creative with placement. It's easier to cut some slots in the larger pipe and hammer them in and weld up the slits, than it is to try and expand a 1.525" pipe.
Did you lower the subframe to get more access? I am in the process of replacing exhaust and have no room to body structure. No room and even though this car has very little winter time, the heat shield bolts on the cat have lost mass and forced me to order E-Torx end wrenches. Will not arrive for two days......grrrrr. Please advise. P
No I didn’t lower the subframe to work on the exhaust. But removing the lower half of the rear bumper, crash bar, and the X brace at the back of the car can make your life a lot easier.
There are definitely better and worse quality of flex pipes to use. I’ve had a similar experience with a cheap one that only lasted a year or two as well.
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Nothing to swear about that's how we get that super valuable experience. Great vid, thank you. Cheers.
Exactly!
I took mine out, cleaned up the contacts and bam! Works like a charm
Do you mean the alternator?
Great timing to find this video. Just found out my 2015 Brabus has the same issue. I don't weld so will be using clamps.
That’s going to be really tough as the pipes are slightly different sizes top and bottom.
@@PBGarage Good to know. Guess i'll be calling in some favors from my friend who welds. Thanks
It’s worth the extra effort just to not have to try and mess around with the clamps being in the way, it’s pretty tight under the car where the flex pipe is.
Thank you I appreciate you’re smart videos
Thanks! They’re great cars but often cost too much to have repaired for what they’re worth so if I can help people keep them on the road affordably I’m happy!
I’m concerned the M8 heat shield bolts will not be strong enough because of the muffler heat and bouncing loads. Defo should have gone M12+ IMO. 🤣
Nice execution and I like the use of the jack for the reference point 👍🏻
I was looking for some M16 Inconel bolts but it’s been a while since I’ve gone scrap diving at the submarine harbour.
Lol the one part i needed was skipped. Im having soo much issue putting the back bolt in.
The two bolts on the flange you mean?
@PBGarage yes sorry. I managed to jerry rig a flexible joint to attach to my tork and hated every second of getting it to catch. Still your video and ones like it are a service thank you
@rocknut144 thanks! Yeah the bolts are hard to get to and corrode very easily so I always end up punching the captive nuts off the back side with an air chisel, then I install new bolts+nuts when I reinstall, so the next time I’m doing the job they are easy to get out again.
I just found out my 2010 Brabus has the same issue. I guess that's what I'm tackling this weekend. I see you used 1.75" which is fine, but how long? I see 8 and 10". I feel I can just cut down the 10", but someone mentioned that the 10" is too long. And the material is SS so when you welded, did you weld SS or just normal MIG? I weld normal steel, but no TIG Capabilities as of yet but do you think the normal steel welding will hold up long enough or should I get it welded up SS? Great video by the way. Thanks
Thanks! If 8” includes the ends which you’ll be cutting and bending I think you’ll be ok. If the flexy part itself is 8” you may not have room to fit it in. I think the shorter the better as long as you have enough pipe to make up the difference.
Also, I used just mild steel to weld many many of these up. The welds always far outlast the replacement flex pipes, so I’ve never been worried about it. I’ve been using flux-core wire with a MIG, except no gas just the flux core in the wire.
I notice that you never show the removal or replacement of the flange bolt furthest from you. Could that be because that one is a real nightmare to get to? lol And that's also why I'm surprised you choose to refit the heat shield before re-attaching the manifold. It's much easier to do with the heat shield off.
I never touched the manifold, and both bolts at the flange for the muffler are a real pain, and mine were so rusted the bolts snapped on removal, and I punched the “captive” nuts out with a hammer, opting to replace with hex head bolts and normal nuts for ease of future removal. I thought I covered all that in the video but that was quite a long time ago.
I've read that the flexi pipe is either 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" pipe, about 8" long. Any idea which is correct?
I've been using 1.75" pipe, which a little bit larger than OEM, but it gets tricky because the inlet and oulets aren't the same size with the bends in the factory pipe. I got a pipe that was a bit shorter than 8" so that I had a bit more room to get creative with placement. It's easier to cut some slots in the larger pipe and hammer them in and weld up the slits, than it is to try and expand a 1.525" pipe.
Did you lower the subframe to get more access? I am in the process of replacing exhaust and have no room to body structure. No room and even though this car has very little winter time, the heat shield bolts on the cat have lost mass and forced me to order E-Torx end wrenches. Will not arrive for two days......grrrrr.
Please advise.
P
No I didn’t lower the subframe to work on the exhaust. But removing the lower half of the rear bumper, crash bar, and the X brace at the back of the car can make your life a lot easier.
Replace that flex pipe once. Lasted for a year and the same thing happened
There are definitely better and worse quality of flex pipes to use. I’ve had a similar experience with a cheap one that only lasted a year or two as well.
@@PBGarage Ridgid pipe probably last forever
Was this car smoking a lot before? I have a 2009 smart fortwo and been told I’m in need of a new exhaust system ($1200)
No the car never smoked.
Would a broken/ cracked flexi pipe cause smoke? White smoke
Hi what size is the repalacement flexi pipe?
I’ve been using 1-7/8” x 4”, it’s a bit bigger than stock but allows me to cut and fold the ends a bit to account for the curved pipe etc
Nice cheap fix.
I’ve done a ton of them, it’s nice to get away with a $20 fix one something a dealer would quote you a grand for.
@@PBGarage For sure. Money they can be spent somewhere more important.