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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2024
- In, the episode of the 2021 Jayco Eagle build, I Conover the batteries I am using. So many online solar influencers are recommending them, but never how to mount them in a rv or mobile setting. so while the Vatrer 51.2vdc LiFePO4 rack batteries are very capable and well priced, my bigger issue is securing them.
I also bore everyone with more math and numbers about 48vdc.
EDIT to add: Vatrer's previous battery had one less cell and they added on this model was the information they gave me.
Don't forget to check out @LithiumSolar for his review of the battery.
amzn.to/4bAzNkd
Discount code: AZEXPERT
www.vatrerpower.com/products/... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Just a note, 16s (51.2V nominal) LiFePO4 is the standard "48V" size for LiFePO4 batteries. It doesn't have one extra cell. 4s is 12.8V, 8s is 25.6V, and 16s is 51.2V nominal. That's the standard.
There are vendors who sell "48V" LiFePO4 batteries that are 15s, but you never want to buy those... its marketing junk and even though the "typical" voltage is 48.0V (3.2V x 15), it isn't the standard for 48V LiFePO4 systems.
At 16s you typically charge to 56.8V and discharge to 48.0V or maybe slightly lower. There is no need to stress the battery by charging higher than 56.8V or discharging below around 46.0V. LiFePO4 is fully charged at 55.2V (@ 0 tail current), but BMS defaults typically need charging to 56.8V to balance properly. You don't charge or discharge all the way to the BMS safety disconnect voltages, that puts unnecessary stress on the BMS.
Also, if you go 48V, use at least 2 AWG for the main battery cabling. That gives you 5000W+ of power capability with basically no losses. Particularly if you have three in parallel. If you want more than 5000W then go with 1 AWG or 1/0, but most 48V (51.2V nominal) RV builds just stick with 2 AWG. 5000W of continuous power with basically zero heat generation is one hell of a lot of power.
Always use AWG tables for power transmission, NOT AWG tables for 90C temps. 2 AWG is 100A and at 51.2V nominal that is over 5000W.
As long as the voltages are fairly close (and they likely will be), you can charge all the batteries in parallel just fine, even if they are at different SOCs. The current sharing will be wonky but once the charge cycle gets the batteries up to the target, they will all be at 100% SOC, roughly. One discharge / charge cycle later they will be perfectly matched.
You don't have to worry about airflow with 300Ah of 48V (51.2V nominal) batteries in parallel. Your C rate is going to be so low that the batteries won't even get warm. e.g. 5000W will be 0.33C with that battery configuration. They won't even blink. Its a big nothing for LiFePO4.
-Matt
That's a lot of helpful information. I think there previous rack battery was 15 cells so that's why I asked them as they sell both 48 and 51.2
Very nice of you to type this information
@@AZExpert Maybe different chemistry or just calling the exact same chemistry 12V or 12.8V interchangeably.
Your monster 480Ah LiFePO4 says 12.8V in a very large font, at around 5:10 in this video. 12.8x4=51.2, there is no extra cell, no different nominal voltage than if you strung 4 of your own together. Absolutely the standard nominal voltage for a "48V" LiFePO4 battery.
Voltage Drop is huge for DC, so calculating the total distance of the runs plus temperature used at, will give you the proper copper size wire to use don’t use anything but copper. Copper welding wire is an excellent choice to use.
@@peckerpeter2078 In a 12V system voltage drop can be massive problem. But in a 48V system its a footnote... 48V systems generally don't suffer from any appreciable power loss even over long cables.
Voltage drop is a function of cable resistance and current only. AC vs DC is (mostly) irrelevant. But POWER loss over the cable is a completely different beast. The reason is ohms law. More specifically, the power-resistance equation:
P = I * V
V = I * R
(do the substitution for V)
P = I * (I * R)
P = I * I * R
Power loss on a cable (and in equipment) is a function of the SQUARE of the current. A 48V system has 4x the voltage and thus 1/4th the current to transmit the same amount of power. But cable losses are actually only 1/16th (given the same size cable).
This means that in a 48V system you can make the cable smaller and still avoid serious cable losses. Going from 2/0 @ 12V to 2 AWG @ 48V, for example, still reduces cable losses to 1/4th on the 48V system verses the 12V system, even though the resistance of the 2 AWG cable is doubled.
--
This can be confusing so I'll describe it another way... the voltage drop is strictly a function of current and resistance. Say you are transmitting 20A over a long cable and causing a 2V voltage drop. In a 12V system that 2V voltage drop is roughly 20% of your power in cable losses. But in a 48V system that 2V voltage drop is only 5% of your power in cable losses.
But that is assuming you are still sending 20A. But at the same power level on a 48V system you are only sending 5A. So now the voltage drop is only 0.5V and the power losses on the cable are only 2.5%. (again assuming the same cable size for this example).
In this example, going from 12V to 48V goes from 20% in cable losses to 2.5% in cable losses to transmit the same amount of power over the same cable.
Even if you make the cable thinner (e.g. go from 2/0 to 2 AWG), the cable losses will still only be 5% on the 48V system instead of 20% on the 12V system.
-Matt
I just finished my Sprinter electric build. Well, the basic system is in ...A massive learning curve... but with it, I can really appreciate what you're doing...VERY NICE!!!
Sounds great!
Super happy to see you getting into doing videos on larger solar installs. I built out our current 2400w panel / 7.6kwh setup on our Born Free last year, but we're going full time and it looks like later this fall will be moving up to a diesel pusher. That means a new system, likely 6kw of panels and 20-30kwh of batteries. Those larger power needs also mean a new learning curve for 48v systems and split phase inverters. The fun never ends.
Good looking job. The brackets that you flattened are actually adapters to install the batteries in a 23" server rack
Been watching almost since you started this channel and you never disappoint.
Beautiful install! Thats a LOT of power for that rig so I'm sure he will be very pleased.
Once again it's the solar James show 😂. Have a good time
I'm trying to power through this series. Thanks for sticking aroung :)
Great job on the battery install, Looks great!
I built a 16.4 kwh 48v (nominal) battery for my motorhome using 16, 320ah cells. A 16s LiFePo-4 configuration produces 51.2v. The space it takes up looks ideal for the inside of a fiver, as it is long and narrow. The individual cells weigh about 12 lbs each so they are easy to handle. They are about 8.5 inches tall with the bus bars and studs to connect them together. The width and depth are 6.86" x 2.82" so the dimensions of the assembled battery are about 45.12" long by 6.86" deep by 8.5" tall. Most people put them in a compression fixture, so they don't swell extending their life to up to 8,000 cycles, so add a couple inches on each end for this. The last set of 16 cost me $1,726 including shipping and included flexible bus bars, studs and nuts. A good BMS will cost around $150. My 200A Heltec cost me $98 + shipping. Remember 200a at 48v is like 800a at 12v, so it should be more than enough. It's not just a drop in, because you need to top balance these cells before you connect them, so you need a variable voltage power supply to do so (maybe $50) and several days on the bench to get them all synched up. It's not hard but does take a little time, say 3-4 hrs of actual labor and the rest of the time waiting for them to balance. Still, that's a considerable cost and space savings. So, for around $1,900 ($116/kwh) you can build your own LiFePo-4 with more storage capacity than 3 server rack batteries that cost over $3,000 saving over $1,100 for a few hours work assembling and balancing the cells. Plus, they're about 100lbs lighter too. Just an option. Take care.
Great video on 48v vs 12v I now understand cost difference on a larger system, You got Will Prowse on this RV solar deal you made my mind up on my boat system.
Looks awesome. Nice box. You can wire them all up and just flip one breaker on at a time to charge individually.
I'm like you James. I work alone 99% of the time. You find ways to get it done.
I was thinking of putting my own cells together and installing my own BMS. Looking over the rack mount unit you have is really a good price with a lot of built in options as well. Now thinking of using same rack mount batter thanks for info . Great job and great system.
Glad I could help
Great video-thanks for sharing your install.
Looks good James! I like how you got the weight near centerline.
I’ve been using these 48v batteries for months for my solar home backup and they have been working very well so far.
We have been doing 24/12v and 48/12v systems with my RV Solar company for a few years now.
Many Brands are producing 48v server rack batteries. I have been using EG4 with all Victron for RV’s and Off Grid.
51.2v is quite normal at 48v
We have also been using Hysolis Apollo and Battery Evo Walrus systems off grid and for class A’s
So many options and all our customers are getting really informed on the archaic nature of 12v
Nominal resting is 54.4v to 58.4v charging
This is where I set a Multiplus ll 48
I had to move a big winch arrangement out of the shop one day. It was big and heavy. We could link our 2 10 ton over head cranes together to move it to the door, but to get it out had to come up with a better method.
I just went out to the steel rack and grabbed several lengths of round stock and set it down onto them, hitched a chain onto our ancient old 16000 forklift and just rolled it out the door like nothing, had to keep grabbing the round stock from the back to the front but nothing to it.
Definitely an interesting system you are building.
James - you do darn good work!
Really nice solution for mounting the batteries.
James, so has frame strength been considered here? All the solar gear in the front pass-through, generator on the tongue, regular cell on the tongue, dual propane tanks, and you indicated that the owner has a washer-dryer... Add all that up into an equation with a Lippert frame, and I've got to wonder if the A-frame connection to the deck frame is up to snuff...
That is one handsome install James.
Someone has been watching Will.
Insanely great!
Those are awesome !
You are giving me some really great ideas !!!
Glad you like them!
Great build love it
Thanks!
Great video. You do good work.
Thank you very much!
Great video James! Since I having a class A that is a 12 volt vehicle still kind of hurts my head going to 48 volt house battery but I get the advantages. Maybe the way of the future, just make an RV all 120 VAC inside with a higher voltage battery and forget all the 12-volt stuff.
that's the legacy problem and I don't see a time when 12vdc will go away, automotive would have to change first.
You can still use 12 volt appliances, you just need a step down converter with the right amps to meet your needs.
@@AZExpert True even your leaf and tesla's still have 12 VDC in them to run all the typical car accessories.
you said the 15kwh is substantially less than 5.8kwh of your 1 battery - you meant it in reverse - right?
Great video, thank you!
Do you need a step down 48v to 12V converter or the charger/Inverter already do that?
Are you making the entire RV live, I mean, when the battery is on everything is powered? If yes, what kind of inverter/charger are you using what what power?
very imformative,thank you.🤩👍👍
Simply beautiful!
Thank you!
nice work!!
Thanks!
Have the same batteries but went with a sungold 10k all in one inverter. and a 12.5k watt gen as a backup.
nice combo
Was there room to mount them flat against the back board? If they had added mounting holes on the bottom and sides for the included flanges, that would give you more options. If space allowed it, mounting them flat against the back board would give you lots more room to work with the inverter / chargers. One thing I would be concerned about is weight limits of the RV. I know my 36' RV allows about 2500 lbs of my stuff on top of the RV weight.
My thoughts too. easier to work on and better for storage too.
I think that's my takeaway on the video is that server rack batteries are a little more difficult to mount easy in a rv and people should know that
I have 12v 310ah in my small RV and never seem to run low on power - won't 48v need a DC to DC charger?
I might have stack mounted them in the same place with spacers to allow for easier access to the screens, front panels and more air flow... I hope heat isn't an issue.
James please share where you got the rails for the solar panels and the clamps. This would work perfectly to finish my solar on my truck camper.
san tan solar in gilbert, AZ @santansolar
Is your friend/customer going to be using this in a hot environment or a cold environment?
By placing those spacers between the batteries, you're turning it into one solid block with no airflow to cool the batteries.
Ditto for putting wood and carpet around the perimeter.
In a really cold environment, the internal heat of charging and using the batteries will act like its own anti-freezing heaters, albeit ones that are not in any way thermostatically controlled.
In a really hot environment, you've just created a self-heating oven for the batteries.
If that RV is spending its life in AZ, I'd remove the ABS spacers and maybe add a box fan on top to suck air between the batteries. Their metal cases are probably designed to carry away internal heat, and you just defeated that.
Thanks for the input, the owner will check temperatures at all operations
The batteries won't even get warm. They will be barely operating at 0.2C at his nominal full load. The inverters might warm the compartment up though so in hot weather I would check that. But you don't have to worry about the thermal mass of the batteries at all.
Lithiums don’t like ambient hot or cold, I took them out of my motorcycles for that reason, I ride in all temps.
So with all the additional weight, a fellow can no longer bring a chair and a fishing pole...lol.
there room inside for that ;)
Need a semi to pull your "I'm off the grid look at me unit" I am greeeen!
Recently you inspected a Fleetwood diesel pusher for my friend gary off of bell rd
the extra brackets should be for mounting the battery to a 2 post rack
I would hook up a fan to cool that system!
Working on a bank years ago, the safes are rolled in the same way,worked for the Egyptians
I purchased that 460 ah Vatrer and the Bluetooth only has a range of about 5 feet☹️ is yours any better than that? To get a Bluetooth reading in the coach, I have to lay my phone on the floor above the battery.
On my rv about the dash is the range so 35 feet, on the trailer I had coverage on the roof and anywhere inside
Gonna have high tongue weight.
Nice pro job.
Great video.
Great Video & Info. Do yourself a favor and buy a hydraulic lift table at Hobo Freight. I have used one on my Alfa with the Basement Air, the Generator and I just did 2 of the 460ah batteries from your video on the Beaver. It was a great help removing the 6 Golf Cart Batteries and installing the Vatar 460 beasts. They put them on sale all the time.
I never have a helper for this heavy stuff, and that cart makes life much easier, and it gets used for many things now as the platform lifts to almost 36".
Thanks for the tip! I have one, they have limited ability in my large gravel yard.
@@AZExpert, plywood is your friend .
Did Vater say anything about airflow requirements for those? I only ask as many server racks have various forms of forced air cooling. Great build btw.
surpringly no, guess we will see how they do
Do you have plans to wire up an RV using a Ecoflow or similar power system as the house power?
I think it is the best solution moving forward............once they provide a more robust 12vdc circuit 10-30amp will not cut it with slides.
@@AZExpert Delta 2 Max has 38w dc output, 2400w a/c (4800 surge). Works fine on my Lance r/v including one a/c.
The telephone industry has been using -48vdc for a century.
330 lbs. plus two inverters and wire!
How will this affect tongue weight! Heavy man!
How will the truck suspension fare?
Was thinking the same thing. 300+lbs added to the tongue seems like a lot.
It's heavy but there's a washer above and it is at least in-between the axle and tongue
Its an enormous amount of energy storage. Over 15kWh worth of usable energy storage. The same thing in lead-acid (2 x the weight plus only discharging to 50%) would be 1200 lbs.
Now pack the roof with solar to make use of all that storage(!).
The tongue weight is what I was worried about also with the washer and whatever other gear is going to be loaded into that compartment, especially if it has two full propane tanks and the generator and 12v battery on the tongue. Hopefully with deliberate loading and a good hitch it will tow ok. I would definitely have went with a 5th wheel if it is going to be moved around a lot with this setup with full tanks and a full timer load worth of stuff. He probably figured it was still less weight and size overall and has more towing options other than a HD truck. If it is going to be set up somewhere and rarely or never moved then it will be fine. The truck itself will be fine with a good WD hitch.
Class T fuses
My OCD is triggered that two batteries have a red breaker switch, and the third has a blue one.. lol
It bother me too, I looked repeatedly to see if the specs were different, but good eye!
No sir, That 51.2 volts means that is where it cuts off which leaves around 12% and on the top end 55.2 volts is also where they cutoff of its setup correctly so you leave another 12%. Doing this is how they are getting longer life cycles. My inverters when they hit 51 volts switch to grid to power my house until sun comes up and charges batteries to 53.6 volts then it switches back to battery unless I manually switch back. If I run my batteries down to 48 volts I have 4% left. Running LFP or even lion batteries to under 5% harms them even though it says it doesn't by degrading the lithium faster.
Where are these batteries made?
made in China 100% I think.
Could you have put it all on a pull-out tray.? Still, great job. amazing power
Possibly! The added weight and expense and complications don't feel worth it to me though.
Air conditioner load calculations and recharge capabilities of 4 panels?
the main ac and refrigerator pull about 1300 watts and in peak sun the panels make about 1650 watts so barely more than the consumption, but constant running of the ac was not the owners plan. Just wanted refrigerator and lights and TV
To bad you couldn't get the wall mounted ones that they have on pre-sale.
I just saw those too
51.2 volts is the standard 48 volt nominal voltage for LiFePO batteries. It's 12.8*4.
Thanks. I asked Vatrer why it said 51.2 and they said they added an extra cell compared to the last verion as 48. I think this one said 53.something when I turned it on
Actually a 51.2 volt battery is made up of 16 3.2v cells. Some cheaper LiPo batteries are only doing 15S making them 48v.
@@324atleD that might be true, but I said 51.2 is the standard nominal voltage.
@@AZExpert yeah, fully charged resting voltage should be around 53.2 volts.
Interesting. Li-Fe PO4 are often used as receiver/servo packs for giant gasoline powered RC airplanes, 2s packs marked as 6.6v. This allows the use of servos intended for 6v nimh batteries (5S is over 6.6 when just charged) without adding a voltage regulator. Li-Po are generally used for models with electric motors, sacrificing thermal stability of Li-Fe for their higher discharge C rating. Fully charged a 2 cell is 8.2ish, so high voltage servos or a regulator if used for a receiver.
go with two marine grade Mastervolt 24v batteries that have 230ah 6000wh each and are built to take a beating and waterproof housing.. They also have built in heaters for cold weather. I use a 12v system with a 550ah Mastervolt and can power a 3000w invertor for the air or microwave plus all the 12v.
All my experiences with mastervolt have left me unimpressed.
@@AZExpert Glad your happy with that equipment, however a server rack unit is meant to be mounted in a air-conditioned room stationary rack. Not bouncing down the road. The marine batteries meet the strictest rules out there for safety on the seas and can even take water on them, good luck.
I wanted to convert my Newmar to Lithium house batteries but I live in New England and often will camp in the freezing cold, I don’t think this is really good for charging and draining lithium batteries… they don’t like the cold.. what do you think?
They do not like the cold, there are batteries with heaters, or you can place heaters in the bay with them, but I'd keep them less exposed to the exterior and more in the peopled area where the furnace is.
@@AZExpert Thanks for the feed back.. unfortunately my RV spends the winter outside so eventually the whole unit gets freezing I’m probably just going to stick with a quality AGM batterie.. you have a great channel… your my “Go To” for mods and renovations 😀
It is fairly easy to insulate the batteries so they don't get too cold. A small temperature-controlled DC thermal pad usually does the job. Some people will buy batteries with built-in heaters, but I consider those a waste of money. Easier to just DIY a thermal solution for cold weather.
In an insulated box it doesn't take a lot to keep the batteries at a decent temperature. Like maybe 10W or so (on average).
@@Krazycat321 It’s not the cold temperatures that ruin the batteries. It’s charging them at below freezing temperatures apparently ruins them. Just get some with low temperatures charge cutoff like these.
These don't have an extra cell in them. 51.2 volts is the nominal LIFE PO4 voltage for a 48 volt system. If you look at your 12 volt battery it says 12.8 volts which is the nominal voltage for that system. Multiply your 12.8 volts by 4 and you'll see it's 51.2 volts.
compared to their previous version is what I understand
@@AZExpert I hear you but the 51.2 volt thing is just marketing. It's kind of like how some 18 volt cordless power tools will say they are 20 volts. They're still just 18 volts It's just that 20 volts sounds better. The 51.2 volt thing versus 48 volts is the same thing. Like you saw in the BMS it has 16 cells. A standard 12 volt lithium iron phosphate battery has four cells. So 16 cells the standard number for a 48 volt lithium iron phosphate battery.
I would eliminate the 12v battery and the factory 12v charger by going with a DC 48V Step Down Voltage Reducer Converter to DC 12V. They can be purchased in any amperage you want.
I would keep a 12V battery. The reason is that the 12V legacy system still has several nasty loads... Jacks, pull-outs, brakes, etc that would otherwise necessitate a high-amperage DC-DC. There is no real need to have a high-amperage DC-DC. The 12V battery can handle the loads. The DC-DC charger only needs to play catch-up so it can be small... like 8A or something like that.
This puts the least-stress on the system. There are multiple advantages to keeping a 12V battery in the system:
* The 12V battery handles the legacy surge loads and intermittent heavy loads.
* The DC-DC charger can be low-amperage / low-stress. e.g. 8A. It doesn't have to handle the loads at all, it just has to be able to catch-up after the fact.
* Surges on the 12V system are isolated from the main system.
* No DC-DC voltage sag on motor startup.
* The presence of the battery serves as a safety in-case the DC-DC fails (will cause fuses to blow instead of putting 48V on the 12V legacy bus, for example).
* The presence of the battery means that you still have some functionality if other parts of the 48V system break, giving you more options when things break.
-Matt
I know you're a fan of the solar generators, but rack full of these looks like it might be a good alternative for a home too.
These are great for a house, it's the moving houses that are more problematic
@@AZExpert I can see that. I just like the thought of being able to use a server rack to stack them easily.
Your red battery frame-mount-post looks loose on your Beaver Patriot Thunder, the greatest Motorhome ever made. 3:51
I'll take a look, thanks!
Good eye! I went back to see what you were talking about and it seems like the lug moves.
24 volt is just fine, to be honest all you wil be doing is reducing the size of the required wires gauge the more bolts you have
Any high current device benefits from a higher voltage source and that is certainly true for high power inverters.
Excellent job James!
After first saying "each to their own" and respecting the owners choice, my comment involves my thought that this rv doesn't warrant the expenditure to install such a noble solar system just so the AC can be run. Regardless of the fact that money being no object, it doesn't make much sense......
A Firman 4000/3200 dual fuel generator only costs $800...... the fuel cost is insignificant in view of the cost of this solar system.
Im going with 12v system.
Has the awning #1 failed yet? 😁
With the EV market down, decreased demand and increased supply, lithium batteries are getting cheaper and cheaper. Ive seen 13 cents per watt hour. Some are even cheaper than AGM now, unthinkable a few years ago.
👍sweet
I would wrap those batteries with corrugated plastic
If you're going to go off grid with something like that better replace those air conditioners with the new ones just available that are inverter type. You know, like residential air conditioners have had for decades
Server rack batteries may not be the way to go for mobile. Unless stated for such purposes or unless someone who knows how to find potential problems and qualify it, server racks shouldn’t be used for mobile. Mounting them, control panel up puts the most strain on the lowest cells and causes the buss bars to extend and compress with every bump. Since they told you it’s ok to mount them as such, I hope you got that in writing. Very few server rack batteries have cells are secured for long term mobility, especially in that orientation. I hope I’m wrong.
That could be why I made this video. There are many sources talking up these batteries as the perfect solution.
I have and do service some 750MW lith battery banks, they are not worth it in my opinion, one has burned to the ground when someone saw smoke and opened the door no reason found moisture?, these are in 40x10 building electronicky/climate controlled 40 tons of HVAC to keep the equipment cool.
no doubt, hopefully the video shows that maybe these are not the best choice for rvs like many people are saying. I've "seen" many fires from lead/acid batteries too
Yay a battery sales video on a rv channel
My favorite kind!
I try to show them in action and not just on a table
It sure seems like you would greatly benefit both productively and safety wise by having a wearable camera. Maybe like police or cyclists use that are either a part of glasses or go on your face like glasses or even as a headband.
One handed work has got to be rather slow.
Really like your content... and yes, even the boring stuff as its not so boring to me.❤ 😊
I appreciate the suggestion. Having extra cameras, making sure batteries are charged, transfering files, and finding out the subject isn't in frame after the work is done and the footage was not captured means any other setup is much more work for me.
at beginning you stated the system you installed is enough to run both A/C's - this is mathematically impossible unless those A/C's have variable speed compressors with incredible efficiency - I am not aware of rooftop window shakers to be so efficient and I pay very close attention to what is available.
both cooling, tv or computer, fridge, perfect sun - I don't see more than 6 hours on a hot day
Vatrer warranty = 5 years
BattleBorn = 10 years
To compare with BB = you need 4 batteries to match the power of Vatrer 1 rack system
BB cost = $4,000 (maybe $3.5k with discounts)
Vatrer cost = $1000
I have been a 12 volt tech for a very very long time.
One thing I know to be true from the beginning until now - when there is such a disparity in price, every time the issue comes down to performance.
There are many low priced options for lithium batteries - they are low for a good reason.
BattleBorn cooks their batteries in the oven for testing to determine safety.
I for one, do not want to wake up to my batteries burning.
So - the question is - did Vatrer sacrifice safety and long term performance to be competitive?
Based on my historical experience working with more brands I can recall, on just about every vehicle you can mention - over 15k installs - I would be scared to put this in my tt.
$2k, $2.5k - sure.
$1k = nope.
Thank you. There is some truth in getting what you pay for and I like the gamechanger design and mounting. Heaters aren't vital for every install and battle born makes a good battery but is really just assembling them from overseas cells and they may not be getting the nice ones they use to and trading on a name at this point. I don't see the adder value and would rather replace all the batteries in 5 years with even better and less expensive batteries for the premium proce of bb
Also I already ran both ac on the batteries. I don't understand how it's impossible
@@AZExpert $1k for 5k is a great value no doubt - do you think I can mix that with BB?
@@AZExpert you are supplementing the power draw with the battery bank
how much do those AC's draw? 1500 - 2000 watts each?
how about the fridge?
tv?
Computer?
microwave?
Lights?
I am saying 4000 watts for both AC's
another 300 - 500 watts for everything else
the 1800 watts will almost never deliver 1800 watts - for sure you can expect comfortably 1000 watts from solar most days and throughout most of the day
So I am giving you in my calculation the full 1800 watts of solar
You still have a deficit of @ 2500 watts
So tell me - how long @ 2500 watts before the battery bank is empty?
I am not saying this is how the rig is being used, but you said it will power everything - most people assume this means all day
that's what I am saying
I have more solar, less power consumption - 7 BB's = 8.9k watt hours based on your calculations - I could not survive 24 hours without needing to recharge from shore or generator
I don't have a microwave - use propane for stove top and water heater - no tv, just a laptop with 2 screens and some minor items
Please tell me where I am confused.
Because you're assuming the owner will be running everything all the time. He only asked for frig, tv, lights, and 120vac outlet, maybe one ac periodically. I gave him a little extra then he asked, and if he added more panels he could run everything all the time. I do cover this information in future videos. The inverter, and distribution and wiring we tried to future proof, and solar can always be added if his needs change same with batteries.
So you alienate about what 1200 to 1400 pound of gross vehicles weight available
I'm not sure it adds up to that much, but yes weight is important for sure
meanwhile my little honda 1000i will provide more reliable power to any battery system then all those solar panels..and FYI lithium server rack batteries in anything on the road is an accident waiting to happen..good luck with insurance...in substations we never use any of these for any reliable backup power never...same with AGM..
you have an endless supply of fuel for your generator and the fuel is completely safe to store in your RV without any chance of fire? I am very interested in this generator.
$1100 per battery? 😲
Yes. Its a huge amount of storage. 15000 Wh of usable storage. Probably more than he actually needs.
@@junkerzn7312
I'm having a hard time trying to replace my 4 regular house batteries. Can't imagine replacing those.
@@junkerzn7312
I'm having a hard time trying to replace my 4 regular house batteries. Can't imagine replacing those.
My only concern is the heat coming from your inverters and how hot those batteries are going to get. Might want to make sure you don’t exceed 140 deg f.
Just my 2cents worth.
If it happens, we would just have to add ventilation.
Not sure if you hooked them up yet or not but with three in parallel you really want to go to bus bars using equal length wires rather than just paralleling them in line with each other. This is because they will actually charge and discharge unevenly especially under heavy load if they aren't paralleled using bus bars. I've seen videos where people test this and the unbalanced can actually be pretty significant.
This was how the instructions recommended
@@AZExpert I'm not sure which way you're referring to I just wanted to let you know that I did a bunch of research into this before I did my setup and it definitely can make a difference. The voltage curve on lithium batteries is flat enough that you can have a pretty significant state of charge difference between them and still have them at almost the same voltage so they won't quickly self balance between the packs like lead acid batteries will. Can you get away with doing it The classic way? Maybe but it's definitely not the ideal way to do it with more than two batteries.
@@DoRC The manufacturers instructions on section 7 showing the batteries wired directly with no bus bar connecting them to each other. I am glad you are just trying to let everyone know what you did on your installation, Thank you for the help!
@@AZExpert understood. Yeah The instructions for my batteries showed the same thing. I'm sure it will be fine :-)
Unless he intends to run 200A+ loads, bus bars are not necessary in this case. The batteries will have slight SOC offsets relative to each other due to the cabling topology but it's nothing to worry about... it won't effect the system, capabilities, or the life-span of the batteries in the least. Not with a 48V system.
I would still recommend at least 2 AWG battery cabling though. 1 AWG if you are feeling generous. And the fuse should be sized for what the cabling can handle (obviously).
The only real consideration here is that even though the equipment will never use the full capabilities of the battery bank, that is still a 15000Wh / 15000W-capable battery bank. A little future-proofing with the cabling is always a good thing.
-Matt
So your customer/friend understands the clear superiority of a 48V system and you are the "expert". Interesting!
He's an RV expert not an expert in this particular type of system. He explained that multiple times throughout this install.
Thanks @dorc, your comment added a great deal of useful help and information.
@@AZExpert I'm sorry I think I might have poorly worded that. What I was saying was that you explained in the videos that this isn't something you've done a bunch of times before. I didn't mean that you were making a bunch of mistakes or anything like that. I edited my comment for clarity. I personally think you're doing a great job overall! Your channel is also one of my favorite on TH-cam and I watch every one of your videos :-)
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