With all the bad news in the world today, it's nice to see a new video about engineering, creativity, and collaboration around this electrification hobby. This was a very professional job from you as always, and I enjoyed relaxing and watching you work for the benefit of a friend!
I generally recommend putting bolts in from above. If nuts fall off, at least the bolt is still poking through the hole to hold things still. And use nylock nuts so you don't need to worry about them falling off in the first place.
Thanks to Patrick for letting us take a look at his build. The conversion of a used vehicle for my own property is also something I'm looking into. I like how you guys break everything down. Maybe we can get some details on just how much weight he is able to carry, top speed, and total distance on a single charge?
I bought this same battery a little over a month ago and no complaints from me. I cut the ring terminals off and bought a yamaha charger plug (for my yamaha g29) and put it on the pig tail from the charger. It looks pretty factory. Very happy with the purchase.
3.45 volts per cell is an ideal sweet spot as there is very little capacity to be gained from going higher. Less than 2%. Yet it’s high enough for the active cell balancer to work. After a couple hours of absorbing at 55.2, you can drop down to a float voltage about 3.3 volts per cell, 52.8 battery voltage. It would be cool to put 16 304 aHr cells in this thing! But sounds like he does not need that much capacity.
3.7V/cell is way too high. To be frank, the charge controller should stop at 3.55V/cell and the BMS cut-off should be 3.65V/cell. You don't want the charge controller to regularly trigger the BMS cut-off, that puts unnecessary stress on the BMS. 3.55V/cell will fully charge LiFePO4, there is no need to go higher. But it really comes down to whether you can control the BMS parameters. Some BMS's won't balance until you charge the battery to 3.65V/cell. What you really want is for the BMS to start balancing above 3.50V/cell. So BMS balance start: 3.50V/cell, charge controller target 3.55V/cell, and BMS cut-off 3.65V/cell. Once the battery is well balanced, the BMS should just not hit any high-voltage cell cut-off. One last thing. It's a good idea to put two batteries in parallel rather than just have one battery. It is totally unnecessary to run batteries at 1C or higher. Having two in parallel gives you a lot more surge capacity as well as more robustness and less stress on the batteries. -Matt
You could probably still go up the hill with the old battery if you just drive slower. Ideally the motor controller would have a programmable battery current sensor which would automatically reduce the speed. It's worth seeing if this is an option, even with the new battery. The new battery gives headroom but if you have four people and heavy gear you might still reach the limit.
I really really want to build a diy aerodynamic electric full suspension velomobile... AKA fully enclosed electric recumbent trike. With enough storage for groceries or camping/living gear. With as much rooftop solar as will fit & optional single wheel bike trailer with suspension. With a couple lightweight folding solar panels that store under the seat. = No more need for car, insurance, registration, gas or high maintenance costs. Able to combination of pedal or pedal/electric assist or electric only if you get tired or sick but need to be somewhere......Many think it's goofy but when u realize you're gonna be stuck on a fixed income. It seems like a good way to stay travel but stay warm & in rain/cold.
Awesome I do wonder if it may shut off when the voltage or soc is under 10% as amps rise as you have told us many times. I am glad to see the solar roof for never charge use lol.
Hahaha!! I fitted a big solar panel to my mobility scooter in 2018!! I use a 370w panel and pwm regulator. Mobility scooters are 24vdc not 48. On a day of full sun, I can be on the move for a long time.
I've put up to 900w of solar on one Taylor Dunn cart but in my experience 600w is more than enough to sustain any heavy ranch needs for a utility vehicle.
Hey, David, if you get yourself a set of golf clubs and hit the golf ball like I do,anymore, you will have a blast driving around looking for your ball in the rough all day! Lots of uphill, downhill, and side hill driving around to keep you excited. You might even find others balls!,,
I’m new to bifacial panels. Is there a reason he wanted to go with a bifacial over a single sided, considering the way the panel is mounted? It just seems the little bit that is uncovered on the backside, would make that much difference. I have no clue though, just trying to decide if bifacial are really worth the extra cost.
The battery looks "professional" heavy duty. The second set of screws, super well thought out, from the manufacturer For the future, you can put thicker cables (next AWG side) between the battery and the engine controller, on a route as short as possible and safe . Sorry and no hate, the arrangement of the wires around the MPPT, Bost and charger controller can be more professional. @ 12:18 the plug must be waterproof !!! I like the desire/will of the owner!
I wonder if its the surge spike thats forcing it into protection mode and if so would a capacitor bank address this issue. *Guess I should have watched the whole vid before commenting. :)
Nice job maybe I need one to drive to work. I don't know if there is a golf cart route but the same thing can apply to a motorized wheelchair type of three wheelers. They have a twenty five mile range if i could go fifty then this might be doable. I can use the sidewalks under the disability act. The question where do I put the solar panel? No roof. 73
I love the Poz projects, but can't help asking if the battery isn't worth much significantly morethan the golf cart? (I've never bought a golf cart so might be an ignorant question) The payback time at $2200.00 plus sales tax must be millions of miles? Still awesome fun to have a vehicle and never buy gas again and never pay to charge again. Very cool!
I’d make a recommendation if you don’t mind; Use a solenoid instead of the transistors that the bms uses. There are 2 options: 1: desolder the transistors and use their gate signal to turn on a 200/300A solenoid rated at the voltage you’re running. (48v etc). If oh have a shunt built into the bms, you can still wire that in to measure current unless it is a bottleneck itself in which case I’d recommend the next option: 2: switch to a different bms such as the Jaibadai 21s capable smart bms with built in solenoid that handles the current needed easily. Then to be extra safe, run an active balancing module with the voltage set to turn on after you’re at 3.45v for the final top balance when charging. You would see a huge performance boost having a solid connection like a large solenoid vs the transistors and have peace of mind with the active balancing and temperature monitoring. 3rd option would be at the very least use some thermal paste and put a large heatsink onto your transistors with a cooling fan to keep their heat down and performance as best as possible.
Was your Victron Smart Shunt calibrated to the exact battery capacity advertised on the pack? Does the shunt read the exact capacity or does it cater to the set capacity.
Hi. Dave, I was wondering how your Schneider XW pro inverter? Are you going to do a review on the inverter. I’m off grid and have been watching a lot of videos. I watched a video XW pro vs SolArk and I empress. What is your opinion. Thanks
Yes, I have several videos on my Schneider XW PRO inverter. It's been working great, no faults. Check out my load test video: th-cam.com/video/nCV1OUrcAaw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DE4rUQ97c_oC4Izc I tried running a Sol-Ark at my house and it didn't work well for me.
I recently changed my e-scooter's LA battery for a 17S LI battery. Scooter had a stock 40A MCB on it which worked with the LA, but it tripped with the LI. The BMS is 100A and I ordered a 100A MCB that I haven't received yet. I hope it stops tripping. *****Anyone know why the 40A MCB trips when the LI is connected but not when the LA is connected?***** Internal resistance higher for LA than LI, is that why? Scooter is 72V. Stock wires connected to the LA battery are just 12 gauge and they go into the controller so I can't change them - I hope they don't overheat. I think I'm experiencing high AMPs just on take off not after getting up to cruise speed. I'm in Asia - lucky there are no hills.
Did you do the exact same drive as the 1st one? Because looking back when you went to the same grass area (where it stoped) you were at 96% life @start, with the new new up you’re at 74% life@start. If both tests were equal the new setup has too much parasitic draw could be from the booster you added.
@@DavidPozEnergyThank you for the confirmation. If you FW to 4:04 you will see old setup in high 96% range compared to new setup. To me it seems it definitely need more AH battery life not to cut out. But there is a big parasitic draw on the new set up that Has to be the booster is using way to many watts to convert. What do you think?
@@DavidPozEnergy ok, nice function to have. Not all lithium battery's BMS has cold temp protection. Most have high temp, short,over charge/discharge but not cold temp. Without that protection you might have to install some type of heating element around the battery, or some type of shut off. Both would need to operate off of a thermostat
How long to charge it up from 50% discharged, using that solar panel? Solar panel is only yielding ~4A in the sunshine.. so... does not seem like the solar would be "Enough to REALLY never plug in your cart" unless not really using it much per day, i.e. never discharging the battery much.
Patrick tells me that he uses it every day during the summer, but it's only 2-3 miles per day. It's charging around 220W. Since the panel is oversized, the charger can be at 220W for a long time, meaning it can capture up to 1,800Wh per day. That's about a third of the total battery capacity. As Patrick mentioned, the capacity is not his limiting factor, it's the maximum current. Patrick could use a smaller capacity battery, but because of heat buildup, the manufacturers don't put 200A BMSs into 50Ah batteries.
Patrick (the owner of this golf cart) hasn't had any problems charging from solar. I'm not sure what the underlying reason is that Vatrer would say that on their FAQ. I've spoken with Vatrer since publishing this video and they had no problem with the solar panel.
github.com/madsci1016/SMAVenusDriver This is the most useful link I can give you. It's a way to send SOC data to the SMA inverters, regardless of which batteries you are using.
@DavidPozEnergy Hello David been watching you for some years now. Love the work you did with the golf kart and even more importantly how you simplify all your videos for anyone to understand. I am trying to put a small affordable system together for my home. I presently have an eg4 3000 watt 48volt inverter and four 560 watts solar panel. What I desperately need is a battery. Would you happen to have a battery you would be willing to give away. Please let me know. Thank you. Charles.
Hi Charles, I gave this battery away to Patrick, and I've given away others in the past. The biggest issue is shipping. I don't have any legal way to ship batteries. So, when I give away batteries they are all local (Massachusetts). Check out this battery, it can handle your 3kW inverter and get you going: batteryhookup.com/products/new-51-2v-60ah-3-07kwh-lifepo4-battery-with-bms-48v Use discount code DAVIDPOZ
@@DavidPozEnergy Hello David. Truly appreciate you taking the time to respond. If you have any battery giving away do let me know as I maybe able to get help with shipping. I will also check out the site you listed. Really benefitted from all your videos. By the way, we also love the new look (hair). Keep growing stronger and stay blessed. Charles.
It continues to confuse me why so many people call North America grid power 110V. The official distribution voltage has been 120V since the 1930s. Old habits die hard, I guess.
Patrick (owner) has told me that he has never plugged it in since we installed the first lithium battery. The solar panel is enough for his level of driving. Patrick says he uses it every day during the summer. It's shut down during the winter.
David, with respect, you typically do a great job with your videos and they are much appreciated. However, you did yourself no favors with your "review" of the Anker F3800. This unit is a joke especially with it's 60 volt solar input limitation. I believe you are a "good guy" so please, please, do not do any "reviews" like this again in the future.
Not much of a leap of imagination is needed to see how you could make a small car with a couple of solar panels and hardly ever charge it again if you don't need to drive every day.
You know, that’s the American way. Gotta be different, got to show off, got to spend money on more junk, gotta go faster, bigger tires, bigger exhaust pipes, bigger homes than the neighbor, etc. it’s been a downward greedy, corrupt spiral since 1607.
It's the way I bought it, it lived on a seasonal camp site. Picked it up pretty cheap considering the motor controller was fried. Plus I go off roading with it.
![Why a 48V System is Better than a 12V? [Vatrer Power]](/img/n.gif)
I'd like to report that the battery hasn't cut out once. 👍
Just to follow up. Are you able to carry more passengers now over the same terrain?
i love when people put solar power into practice like this, really cool self charging cart
With all the bad news in the world today, it's nice to see a new video about engineering, creativity, and collaboration around this electrification hobby. This was a very professional job from you as always, and I enjoyed relaxing and watching you work for the benefit of a friend!
And the solar panel even extends the roof over the back seats - an added bonus!
Our EG4 Waterproof 48V runs our cart without issue. Max current draw is 135amp.
We use a 430w panel with the Gensun SCC.
And the EG4 battery is about $600 cheaper and still with the 200a BMS. Only difference I see is no metal frame around battery.
I generally recommend putting bolts in from above. If nuts fall off, at least the bolt is still poking through the hole to hold things still. And use nylock nuts so you don't need to worry about them falling off in the first place.
Thanks to Patrick for letting us take a look at his build. The conversion of a used vehicle for my own property is also something I'm looking into. I like how you guys break everything down. Maybe we can get some details on just how much weight he is able to carry, top speed, and total distance on a single charge?
Top speed is about 27mph
Weight is a suspension issue, I've had 4 adults on it with degradation of speed up hill.
Distance... Welp I get 1.5miles per 10% charge use so maybe 12 miles?
Great numbers for my personal needs
I bought this same battery a little over a month ago and no complaints from me. I cut the ring terminals off and bought a yamaha charger plug (for my yamaha g29) and put it on the pig tail from the charger. It looks pretty factory. Very happy with the purchase.
As someone who moved from the east coast to middle America, I enjoy the western Massachusetts aesthetics in your videos.
You might want to put in a vibration isolator (rubber pads) to lessen any effects from bumping around.
3.45 volts per cell is an ideal sweet spot as there is very little capacity to be gained from going higher. Less than 2%. Yet it’s high enough for the active cell balancer to work. After a couple hours of absorbing at 55.2, you can drop down to a float voltage about 3.3 volts per cell, 52.8 battery voltage. It would be cool to put 16 304 aHr cells in this thing! But sounds like he does not need that much capacity.
Thank You for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ ☮ ❤
3.7V/cell is way too high. To be frank, the charge controller should stop at 3.55V/cell and the BMS cut-off should be 3.65V/cell. You don't want the charge controller to regularly trigger the BMS cut-off, that puts unnecessary stress on the BMS. 3.55V/cell will fully charge LiFePO4, there is no need to go higher.
But it really comes down to whether you can control the BMS parameters. Some BMS's won't balance until you charge the battery to 3.65V/cell. What you really want is for the BMS to start balancing above 3.50V/cell.
So BMS balance start: 3.50V/cell, charge controller target 3.55V/cell, and BMS cut-off 3.65V/cell. Once the battery is well balanced, the BMS should just not hit any high-voltage cell cut-off.
One last thing. It's a good idea to put two batteries in parallel rather than just have one battery. It is totally unnecessary to run batteries at 1C or higher. Having two in parallel gives you a lot more surge capacity as well as more robustness and less stress on the batteries.
-Matt
You could probably still go up the hill with the old battery if you just drive slower. Ideally the motor controller would have a programmable battery current sensor which would automatically reduce the speed. It's worth seeing if this is an option, even with the new battery. The new battery gives headroom but if you have four people and heavy gear you might still reach the limit.
With the display he sees if it draws 200A and can go loose on throttle
Vatrer.......... Nice upgrade though!
Some thing to think about is putting in a battery disconnect in easy reach of the operator and a 200 amp fuse or breaker.
I assume there wasn't enough room for both batteries. Excellent video, thank you.
I really really want to build a diy aerodynamic electric full suspension velomobile... AKA fully enclosed electric recumbent trike. With enough storage for groceries or camping/living gear. With as much rooftop solar as will fit & optional single wheel bike trailer with suspension. With a couple lightweight folding solar panels that store under the seat. = No more need for car, insurance, registration, gas or high maintenance costs.
Able to combination of pedal or pedal/electric assist or electric only if you get tired or sick but need to be somewhere......Many think it's goofy but when u realize you're gonna be stuck on a fixed income. It seems like a good way to stay travel but stay warm & in rain/cold.
I wish you guys drove to see how many miles the cart could go on the new battery!! 😊😊 good job you guys!!
Best guess about 12miles
Id say, with 5.4 kWh, probably 40-50 miles
Heya, nice upgrade and no more fault reports. well done
cool vid .putting smaller wheeles on the drive axel Half inch .Ish less ! will extend range and reduce speed top
speed, and reduce lode on th battery
Awesome I do wonder if it may shut off when the voltage or soc is under 10% as amps rise as you have told us many times. I am glad to see the solar roof for never charge use lol.
In this case, the battery never got that low in SOC. But I like how you are thinking through other possibilities.
In the winter, does that battery accept a charge when its cold out?
Hahaha!! I fitted a big solar panel to my mobility scooter in 2018!! I use a 370w panel and pwm regulator. Mobility scooters are 24vdc not 48. On a day of full sun, I can be on the move for a long time.
You can set the charge voltage exactly using the SELF setting😎
I've put up to 900w of solar on one Taylor Dunn cart but in my experience 600w is more than enough to sustain any heavy ranch needs for a utility vehicle.
Thanks David
Hey, David, if you get yourself a set of golf clubs and hit the golf ball like I do,anymore, you will have a blast driving around looking for your ball in the rough all day! Lots of uphill, downhill, and side hill driving around to keep you excited. You might even find others balls!,,
I’m new to bifacial panels. Is there a reason he wanted to go with a bifacial over a single sided, considering the way the panel is mounted?
It just seems the little bit that is uncovered on the backside, would make that much difference. I have no clue though, just trying to decide if bifacial are really worth the extra cost.
This was a cheap panel because it was the last of a pallet at our local distributor. No, it doesn't have to be bi-facial.
@DavidPozEnergy Thanks David! Very much appreciate your insight.
Excellent video once again?
The battery looks "professional" heavy duty. The second set of screws, super well thought out, from the manufacturer
For the future, you can put thicker cables (next AWG side) between the battery and the engine controller, on a route as short as possible and safe .
Sorry and no hate, the arrangement of the wires around the MPPT, Bost and charger controller can be more professional. @ 12:18 the plug must be waterproof !!!
I like the desire/will of the owner!
This was a great return trip. Thank you 😊
Love all of your videos, Longtime fan of the channel, great video as usual. Thanks
Thanks for the EVALUATION ...
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Very nice revisit. Very interesting. Thank you.
I wonder if its the surge spike thats forcing it into protection mode and if so would a capacitor bank address this issue.
*Guess I should have watched the whole vid before commenting. :)
I wonder what kind of range this thing has, and how much that solar panel improve the range. Be nice to do a test, with and without.
Nice job maybe I need one to drive to work. I don't know if there is a golf cart route but the same thing can apply to a motorized wheelchair type of three wheelers. They have a twenty five mile range if i could go fifty then this might be doable. I can use the sidewalks under the disability act. The question where do I put the solar panel? No roof. 73
I love the Poz projects, but can't help asking if the battery isn't worth much significantly morethan the golf cart? (I've never bought a golf cart so might be an ignorant question) The payback time at $2200.00 plus sales tax must be millions of miles? Still awesome fun to have a vehicle and never buy gas again and never pay to charge again. Very cool!
Golf carts are incredibly expensive, you're looking at 8 to 12k depending on version.
It looks like you have room for two of those batteries in there then you'll have over 10 kilowatt hours and over 400 amps of available power
I’d make a recommendation if you don’t mind;
Use a solenoid instead of the transistors that the bms uses. There are 2 options:
1: desolder the transistors and use their gate signal to turn on a 200/300A solenoid rated at the voltage you’re running. (48v etc). If oh have a shunt built into the bms, you can still wire that in to measure current unless it is a bottleneck itself in which case I’d recommend the next option:
2: switch to a different bms such as the Jaibadai 21s capable smart bms with built in solenoid that handles the current needed easily. Then to be extra safe, run an active balancing module with the voltage set to turn on after you’re at 3.45v for the final top balance when charging.
You would see a huge performance boost having a solid connection like a large solenoid vs the transistors and have peace of mind with the active balancing and temperature monitoring.
3rd option would be at the very least use some thermal paste and put a large heatsink onto your transistors with a cooling fan to keep their heat down and performance as best as possible.
A little hard to do since both the old battery and the new battery are factory sealed
Was your Victron Smart Shunt calibrated to the exact battery capacity advertised on the pack? Does the shunt read the exact capacity or does it cater to the set capacity.
13:00 well it won't is LifeP04 they power on till the end. My disability scooter has these I can do 30% hills no problem
I'd try the to batteries and see how it dose
Hi. Dave, I was wondering how your Schneider XW pro inverter? Are you going to do a review on the inverter. I’m off grid and have been watching a lot of videos. I watched a video XW pro vs SolArk and I empress. What is your opinion. Thanks
Yes, I have several videos on my Schneider XW PRO inverter. It's been working great, no faults. Check out my load test video: th-cam.com/video/nCV1OUrcAaw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DE4rUQ97c_oC4Izc
I tried running a Sol-Ark at my house and it didn't work well for me.
I did this to my boat. Never plugged into shore power again.
Good work but I wouldn’t have drilled through the structural beams. I would have used something like strap clamps
yea lol. I've watched him for a few years and that's easily the worst thing I've seen him do. Those beams are probably already pretty weak as is
Nice... thanks for sharing
I recently changed my e-scooter's LA battery for a 17S LI battery. Scooter had a stock 40A MCB on it which worked with the LA, but it tripped with the LI. The BMS is 100A and I ordered a 100A MCB that I haven't received yet. I hope it stops tripping. *****Anyone know why the 40A MCB trips when the LI is connected but not when the LA is connected?***** Internal resistance higher for LA than LI, is that why? Scooter is 72V. Stock wires connected to the LA battery are just 12 gauge and they go into the controller so I can't change them - I hope they don't overheat. I think I'm experiencing high AMPs just on take off not after getting up to cruise speed. I'm in Asia - lucky there are no hills.
Fantastic!!!
So as long as he doesn't really use it, it works fine? - you fixed it YAY
Did you do the exact same drive as the 1st one? Because looking back when you went to the same grass area (where it stoped) you were at 96% life @start, with the new new up you’re at 74% life@start.
If both tests were equal the new setup has too much parasitic draw could be from the booster you added.
Both before and after drives were on the same grassy slope with the same start/stop points.
@@DavidPozEnergyThank you for the confirmation. If you FW to 4:04 you will see old setup in high 96% range compared to new setup. To me it seems it definitely need more AH battery life not to cut out.
But there is a big parasitic draw on the new set up that Has to be the booster is using way to many watts to convert.
What do you think?
great camping vehicle
what about freezing temperatures? will the solar damage your battery?
The battery has built-in protection for cold weather.
@@DavidPozEnergy ok, nice function to have. Not all lithium battery's BMS has cold temp protection. Most have high temp, short,over charge/discharge but not cold temp. Without that protection you might have to install some type of heating element around the battery, or some type of shut off. Both would need to operate off of a thermostat
What does the boost mppt charger do when the battery is full? Does it dump load or disconnect the solar input?
the charge controller just disconnects from the PV.
🎉awesome video 📹 👏 154amps
That display for the battery does not look like it is water proof. The connections on back probably should not have water dripping on it.
He could get more power out of the bifacial panel by removing the roof entirely and mounting the panel only. Probably only a few % maximum though.
How long to charge it up from 50% discharged, using that solar panel? Solar panel is only yielding ~4A in the sunshine.. so... does not seem like the solar would be "Enough to REALLY never plug in your cart" unless not really using it much per day, i.e. never discharging the battery much.
Patrick tells me that he uses it every day during the summer, but it's only 2-3 miles per day. It's charging around 220W. Since the panel is oversized, the charger can be at 220W for a long time, meaning it can capture up to 1,800Wh per day. That's about a third of the total battery capacity. As Patrick mentioned, the capacity is not his limiting factor, it's the maximum current. Patrick could use a smaller capacity battery, but because of heat buildup, the manufacturers don't put 200A BMSs into 50Ah batteries.
@@DavidPozEnergy 👍
Thanks David, it's too bad you can't drive something like that everywhere you an drive a normal vehicle.
Good video.
Hi tech golf cart! I really need to fix my DS cart
The Vatrer website (in FAQ) says not to charge using solar. Any problems experienced doing that so far?
Patrick (the owner of this golf cart) hasn't had any problems charging from solar. I'm not sure what the underlying reason is that Vatrer would say that on their FAQ. I've spoken with Vatrer since publishing this video and they had no problem with the solar panel.
Sure, as long as you have a solar controller, set up 16 strings of lithium iron phosphate mode to charge the battery!
I bought the 36V version, installed without issue, much lighter now & has better pickup, solar charging no problem...
how many hrs will it run before it needs a recharge ?
105ah so about 1hr or 1.5hrs
Hi dave I talked to you a while back im trying to get my sunny Islands to communicate with server rack batteries can you help me thanks
github.com/madsci1016/SMAVenusDriver
This is the most useful link I can give you. It's a way to send SOC data to the SMA inverters, regardless of which batteries you are using.
He would get much improvement on the solar, if he mounted the panel by itself, and remove the cover on the golf cart.
Rrp on such a battery please
@DavidPozEnergy
Hello David been watching you for some years now.
Love the work you did with the golf kart and even more importantly how you simplify all your videos for anyone to understand.
I am trying to put a small affordable system together for my home. I presently have an eg4 3000 watt 48volt inverter and four 560 watts solar panel. What I desperately need is a battery. Would you happen to have a battery you would be willing to give away. Please let me know.
Thank you. Charles.
Hi Charles, I gave this battery away to Patrick, and I've given away others in the past. The biggest issue is shipping. I don't have any legal way to ship batteries. So, when I give away batteries they are all local (Massachusetts).
Check out this battery, it can handle your 3kW inverter and get you going: batteryhookup.com/products/new-51-2v-60ah-3-07kwh-lifepo4-battery-with-bms-48v Use discount code DAVIDPOZ
@@DavidPozEnergy Hello David.
Truly appreciate you taking the time to respond.
If you have any battery giving away do let me know as I maybe able to get help with shipping.
I will also check out the site you listed.
Really benefitted from all your videos.
By the way, we also love the new look (hair).
Keep growing stronger and stay blessed.
Charles.
@@DavidPozEnergysip via freight full hazmat.
It continues to confuse me why so many people call North America grid power 110V. The official distribution voltage has been 120V since the 1930s. Old habits die hard, I guess.
Your motor is going to fry since you increased the amperage that it is allowed to draw.
You could have monitored the motor temp, but didn't…😊
I’ll stay with the lead acid batteries they will last lots longer and they have all the juice you will need to make her go !
how long vs lithium
Why is this not more common.
driving on the power of the Sun.
Why not just change out the BMS rather then whole battery
Every single cell over 3.65...at float 😬
Hey Dave I want that old one for my golf cart give me a price along with shipping to 34746 zip code
not with any real range (aka driving in a city, yeah, that's done here and completely legal)
You never really say though if he never has to plug in. Assuming typical use for him
Patrick (owner) has told me that he has never plugged it in since we installed the first lithium battery. The solar panel is enough for his level of driving. Patrick says he uses it every day during the summer. It's shut down during the winter.
@DavidPozEnergy nice!
BTW I enjoyed your 48 volt generator series,hoping to work on building one this winter.
The motto of this post is "Don't eat so many pies"
David, with respect, you typically do a great job with your videos and they are much appreciated. However, you did yourself no favors with your "review" of the Anker F3800. This unit is a joke especially with it's 60 volt solar input limitation. I believe you are a "good guy" so please, please, do not do any "reviews" like this again in the future.
what comparable unit do you recommend that is portable??? Ron
If it was mine, I'd add tricolour LED tape and a stereo.😊
In due time
You need phone holder on your golf cart !
Not much of a leap of imagination is needed to see how you could make a small car with a couple of solar panels and hardly ever charge it again if you don't need to drive every day.
Get rid of the stupid tires it won’t overload.
You know, that’s the American way. Gotta be different, got to show off, got to spend money on more junk, gotta go faster, bigger tires, bigger exhaust pipes, bigger homes than the neighbor, etc. it’s been a downward greedy, corrupt spiral since 1607.
It's the way I bought it, it lived on a seasonal camp site. Picked it up pretty cheap considering the motor controller was fried. Plus I go off roading with it.
Tires are good - have to be wide to spread load on grass and not damage it.
Can't watch your channel anymore because I use a adblocker and TH-cam won't let me access your content. sorry unsubscribing
Is he drunk