Good job..... I think though that you should have fitted your plug directly to the flex from the fitting. That way you would cut down on the amount of inline connections to each fitting.
@@Cablesmith I bet you didn't see yourself having 2k subscribers. Your views are increasing with every video. The least we can do to support you is like comment share or the very least subscribe 😉. Take care bud and when you hit 20k subscribers I will expect a can of irn bru.
What an excellent little product, thanks for taking the time to demo it for us. Loving the bootlace ferrules but I agree instead of those screws some sort of screwless connector that accepts stranded wire would be amazing like the Wago 221, would save you loads of time.
Genuine question, why do you join another bit of flex between the connection box on the downlight and the quick wire rather than just removing the connection box and fitting the quick wire direct to the flex from the downlight?
No idea 😀 leaving the light fitting as it is, is the only way I’ve ever known it done, no matter what kind of connectors have been used. May be warranty reasons possibly
I’d seen these many times before and totally dismissed them as a...fad thing..but after seeing your brilliant video on explaining exactly how to use them..well let’s just say I’ve just ordered the stripper and 15 T-Connector Plug & Sockets
I’m the same mate, dismissed them without much thought but once I’d had a go of them in the wholesalers I realised just how useful they really are ! Thanks for watching 👌🏼
Great demonstration video and love the humour.👍 I think for time saved the premiered quickwire plug tails are the way to go if you are doing more than half a dozen of these. May I ask why you kept the can junction box in place - surely it is just an unnecessary joint that could fail?
Allo mate Local to you Defo seen your van the other week. Tbh the ferrule thing in this instance isn't really needed. Tip! Strip flex pull off insulation of inner core but not completely.. Twist the insulation. Then snip the insulation off Perfect twisted copper cores that do not come apart
You can also use those Quickwire strippers on flex, works just as well as it does on T&E. Saves even more time not having to get the side cutters out etc. 🤙🏼
OK probably a silly question as I am not an electrician. You say the flex is 1mm is the twin and earth 1mm to? The only reason I ask is the twin and earth, maybe its just me or the close shot, it looks bigger. If it was say 1.5 mm the twin and earth and you stepped down to a 1 mm flex would you not have to put a fuse in between to step down the cable? You are probably using 1mm for both , maybe the twin and earth looks bigger in the shot and you are correct. But as a layman if I was to step down from a 1.5 mm twin and earth on a ring to a 1 mm flex like that, would I have to fuse down?
In this case the twin and earth was in fact 1mm However even if it was wired in 1.5 you could still do this without fusing down, assuming the main mcb for the circuit was 6Amp. Also the single light in question can’t ever overload the 1mm that would be connected to it as you would need to fit a 2400watt light bulb to do so 😀 So in theory it’s protected from over current at both ends really. Thanks for watching and asking 👌🏼
Nice vid Out on interest why haven't you attracted quick wire to where the black connector is? Completely removing it ... Yeah agreed the screw In part shame as lever make them more secure and never come loose. Thanks for the vid
First reason, because I’m an idiot and didn’t think about doing that 😃 But also it wouldn’t really be sticking with the lighting manufacturers instructions if I removed their connector. (That’s what I tell myself to feel better about the first one anyway) 😂
Can these be used like standard junction boxes, or are they only for lighting? Like, could I use it to splice into an existing circuit to run power tools?
They are rated at 16A however the terminals only accept a maximum of 1.5mm so 99% of the time that would be a lighting circuit only. (In the U.K.) I wouldn’t like to advise you to use them for running tools through tho.
Just chipping in to say, yes Sean is right in saying these are 16A so only really for lighting applications. We do have 2.5mm 25A (possibly up to 32A) Junction boxes in development so bear with us...
@@quickwire80 I seen them last night and looking forward to using them. The ring version looks excellent imo. The splitter id assume would very often have a redundant slot, but still a useful thing to have on the van 👌🏼
The connector boxes here are usually cut of as they have crappy Chinese screw connector blocks in them, they are replaced with coffin boxes and Wago type connectors, screw type connector blocks are not safe for long term use as the copper will eventually spread under the screw.
@@Cablesmith The warranty would be the last thing I would worry about on a fitting costing a few quid, More importantly is the potential fire risk and then if during an inspection it was discovered we could risk being de-registered until the situation was resolved which could include inspection of older installations to confirm none present.
In Ireland you may have an issue as your T&E has insulated earth core. I believe the socket connector cannot accept an insulated earth core and never having used the Quickwire stripper I do not know if it will accommodate and cope with an insulated earth.
@@normanboyes4983 the insulated earth core hasn't been in for that long. I was thinking that this would be when changing over from the old 12v halogen spots to LED Spots.
@@roydowling2542 OK - To be honest I was just flagging up as a potential issue as I am not in Ireland and have never actually used the Quick-connect stripping tool. Mind you if you are using on the 12 volt output side then a bit of insulating tape would suffice.😉
The nationwide problem of defective methods being used to terminate into downlighters is solely caused by the lighting manufacturers and the BS institute not providing and not specifying a standard means of terminating cables into the light fittings. Of course it doesn’t help when sparks cut corners or DIYers, but this was foreseeable.
Another good watch mate 👍 I’m slowly working my way through your vids mate 😂😂🙌🏻🙌🏻 I’ve noticed a while back all my down lighters in my house are all single insulated 😭 as from when house was built 18-20 year ago and it has single grey sheath red with cpc and grey sheath single black neutral no cpc ,which I never even new they did 😂 I’ll end up getting a spark to put new in eventually when I can afford it. Don’t think whoever does it could use them boxes tho,instead of replacing whole down light , as the cpc goes straight onto a lug on the metal down light, not sure if the boxes would work 🤔
They would work, but there is cheaper methods. Could be worth just replacing all the lights for the kind that can accept 2 x twin and earths instead. Enlite E6 pro are my personal favourites at the moment, really nice and bright
Can’t knock screwfix for a lot of things tbh. Not everything they sell is crap. Just gotta know what your buying. Prysmian cable, one of the best brands out there for T&E and it’s cheaper than any wholesalers I’ve ever found
@@Cablesmith i dont mean that they fit thru small hole What i mean is small void above the ceiling or could be pipes or other stuff above the cut out so for shallow downlights only.
@@stuartlee8041 I’m definitely not knocking any other way of doing things, you can pay more or less for anything in life. Different strokes for different folks I guess Thank you for watching mate
@@Cablesmith I couldn’t believe this popped up in my recommendations, cos i also have the same remedial to sort on some recessed lights. I also didn’t carry out the EICR and haven’t been to look yet, so we’re see if it’s a quickcable job.
Why would you put another connection in there why didn't you put your new plug right on the can light itself it eliminate that black connector you have
Ahhh I see someone else has said this too, I didn’t even realise, however the little cable from the downlight wouldn’t go in the cordgrip on the quickwire anyway.
would like to know this as well... we had an extension done a few months ago and i supplied the builder's electrician with the spotlights; Enlite EFD Pro fire-rated cans that have push-fit connections. Granted these push-fits are not LENLEN but LLEENN but he didn't even remotely try to keep the grey insulation in the enclosure, with about 2-3 inches of blue&brown showing past the cable grip but even more curiously he didn't put the earths in the pushfit - he twisted them together and placed them in a single piece if sleeving (entirely outside the enclosure). What would you guys code that? also, when your CU is upgraded are you *supposed* to have a schedule of test results for the finished board or is that not a requirement?
@@peter-gn8ey if your downlights had LLEENN then they’re likely made to accept 2 x twin and earths so yes should be inside the enclosure, I personally would give it a C2. And yes when a board is upgraded you should receive a full installation certificate and schedule of test results
@@Cablesmith cheers. I believe the EIC will come when the builder applies for the building warrant/completion certificate but from my conversation with the electrician before his work finished I don't think he's coming back to test the board. He holds a Scottish JIB ECS card showing 17th Edition (BS7671) on the back under qualifications... would I be able to contact them and say I've had a board fitted and no test results provided?
@@peter-gn8ey it would be him directly or his scheme provider such as NIC EIC. There’s a lot of different rules in Scotland tho so I’m not sure on what is required tbh
great bit of kit but wouldn't it be nice if lighting manufacturers put a bit of thought into their connections ? rather than some of the micky mouse s**t that we end up having to deal with on a daily basis ! The number of times that I 've come accross a snazzy looking light design & then when you come to the connection side of it ,it's absolute junk & you end up wasting time to get a decent ,safe connection.
Have a look at page 16 of this Best Practice Guide on coding: www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/media/1626/best-practice-guide-4.pdf It confirms what I'd describe as common sense by stating that exposed insulation on downlighters is a Code 3, so the EICR should not have described them as 'potentially dangerous', and failed the installation on the strength of that alone. If I had to do three EICR's day for £90 each, then yes I wouldn't have time to think carefully about what the actual hazards are for each observation listed in Section K, but that makes the report pretty much worthless.
It all depends on the person testing and the job in question, in this instance the ceiling was made up of steel primary support and top hat sections so with a chance of them coming in to contact with bare metal, I would also have gave this one a C2 but your right, occasionally they will never be accessible etc Thanks for watching mate 👍🏼
@@Cablesmith Indeed page 16 of the guide mentions the presence of metallic parts which would be Code 2 as you say. The ceiling is generally out of reach, but something unpleasant could easily happen if the entire steel structure went live because of one of those downlights. Thanks for the reply.
@@westinthewest I’ve personally seen the outcome of someone touching a live ceiling structure only a few months ago, a lot worse than you’d think. Still a chance he won’t have the use of his fingers again 😱 Thanks mate
Electrical accessory designers have let the contracting industry for decades ..it’s been down to sparks to “ make things fit “ because of piss poor designing and construction ...any designer should be making with the product with the fitter in mind ( we are after all buying the bloody product ). Raise your game lads you’ve a long way to go
On a serious note, house developers need to hang their heads in shame, employing people who install downlights like that. Makes a mockery out of the NHBC warranties as well.
I think the NHBC warranty only covers structural defects I don't think that you can completely blame the house developers as they believe that they are awarding electrical installation contracts who are doing the install correctly meeting the correct standards.
@@anthonybragg fair point. Although I’m sure if this and other owners made a complaint directly to NICEIC about having to pay to rectify work that should be correct in the first place, then absolutely nothing would happen also 😂
@@Cablesmith Assuming that the electrical contractor is a member of the NICEIC others out there the customer to the contractor is the housing developer, not the homeowner the homeowners would have to complain as a group to them. they would have to get the contractor to put it right at their expense or out of the contractor's retention monies. In this case, it is cheaper for the landlord to get you to do it as a satisfactory certificate is needed so it is between days or weeks to get paying tenants. One thing for sure installation methods like that is unacceptable.
Good job..... I think though that you should have fitted your plug directly to the flex from the fitting. That way you would cut down on the amount of inline connections to each fitting.
Great video mate straight to the point, loved the start get the feeling it's a reference to the man from Stafford 😂
😂 thanks for watching mate, I can’t remember what it was about anymore tho
Learnt a load from this, keep it up. I'll keep watching and liking.
Thank you my friend !
Mate first time I've seen them connectors and never used them. Defo give them a try. Cheers for the upload
Thanks mate, defo worth a go
Come on quick wire. Sponsor this chap before he comes youtube famous. It won't be long before he hits 20k subscribers
Haha I can’t see 20k happening but appreciate your support my mate 👍🏼 thank you
@@Cablesmith I bet you didn't see yourself having 2k subscribers. Your views are increasing with every video. The least we can do to support you is like comment share or the very least subscribe 😉. Take care bud and when you hit 20k subscribers I will expect a can of irn bru.
@@murtazahussain4054 your right tbh, didn’t expect a few hundred tbh.
Made from girders at the ready 🥤
“That’s really quick bro, wire”
Worth a sub all day, that.
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
What an excellent little product, thanks for taking the time to demo it for us.
Loving the bootlace ferrules but I agree instead of those screws some sort of screwless connector that accepts stranded wire would be amazing like the Wago 221, would save you loads of time.
Thank you 😊
I thought the 221 wasn’t suitable for flex? Am I wrong?
@@Chequr_Prostate yep the 221 series are suitable for solid, stranded and fine stranded cables.
Makes you wonder why no-one uses the junction box lighting system, rather than the loop in or direct to switch methods.
Those connectors are a great piece of kit to have on hand. I hope you get a few sponsors soon ~ you deserve it mate 👍🏻
Definitely worth having a few of their products in the van. Thank you Ian, appreciate it
Good to see a fellow manc spark on the tube 👊👏
Nice 1 mate 👊🏼
Good video again keep them coming you'll soon be there mate being following you from day one.
Thanks bud 👍🏼
These are a brilliant piece of kit.
Agreed 👍🏼
You can use t&e still on the output to save bootlacing the flex
Didn’t even think of that ! nice 👍🏼
You cant as the fitting can take halogen so could get close to fitting and cause heat damage or expose cable to temperature.
Genuine question, why do you join another bit of flex between the connection box on the downlight and the quick wire rather than just removing the connection box and fitting the quick wire direct to the flex from the downlight?
No idea 😀 leaving the light fitting as it is, is the only way I’ve ever known it done, no matter what kind of connectors have been used.
May be warranty reasons possibly
I’d seen these many times before and totally dismissed them as a...fad thing..but after seeing your brilliant video on explaining exactly how to use them..well let’s just say I’ve just ordered the stripper and 15 T-Connector Plug & Sockets
I’m the same mate, dismissed them without much thought but once I’d had a go of them in the wholesalers I realised just how useful they really are !
Thanks for watching 👌🏼
Great demonstration video and love the humour.👍 I think for time saved the premiered quickwire plug tails are the way to go if you are doing more than half a dozen of these. May I ask why you kept the can junction box in place - surely it is just an unnecessary joint that could fail?
thank you mate, appreciate it.
The light can’t be opened the only connections is that connector strip so it has to stay
Sorry, I see what you mean now 😩
I usually use the Scolmore 3 pole click flow connecters, I going to give these a try seen quicker to terminate !!!
Definitely quicker ! feel a lot higher quality too tbh.
Hi how much are those each? If it's me just use wago's and box.. surely cheaper way and just as quick👍
Allo mate
Local to you Defo seen your van the other week. Tbh the ferrule thing in this instance isn't really needed. Tip! Strip flex pull off insulation of inner core but not completely.. Twist the insulation. Then snip the insulation off
Perfect twisted copper cores that do not come apart
Giz a beep next time 👊🏼
Yea I normally do that myself dunno why I didn’t this day 🤔 thinking too much about what I’m doing for the video 😂
You can also use those Quickwire strippers on flex, works just as well as it does on T&E. Saves even more time not having to get the side cutters out etc. 🤙🏼
I was going to try them but I didn’t wanna break the stripper before the job 😂 now I will tho
@Exploring With Dark Dreamz yeah they are great, but don't you have to have one for flat cable and one for round & one for coax etc. ?? 🤔
@Exploring With Dark Dreamz I’ve broke at least 3 sets of ck strippers. maybe me at fault tho
@Exploring With Dark Dreamz oh nice, similar to the ergo strip from Knipex then? Just without the ergo shape?! Will have to have a look out for one.!
OK probably a silly question as I am not an electrician. You say the flex is 1mm is the twin and earth 1mm to? The only reason I ask is the twin and earth, maybe its just me or the close shot, it looks bigger. If it was say 1.5 mm the twin and earth and you stepped down to a 1 mm flex would you not have to put a fuse in between to step down the cable? You are probably using 1mm for both , maybe the twin and earth looks bigger in the shot and you are correct. But as a layman if I was to step down from a 1.5 mm twin and earth on a ring to a 1 mm flex like that, would I have to fuse down?
In this case the twin and earth was in fact 1mm
However even if it was wired in 1.5 you could still do this without fusing down, assuming the main mcb for the circuit was 6Amp.
Also the single light in question can’t ever overload the 1mm that would be connected to it as you would need to fit a 2400watt light bulb to do so 😀
So in theory it’s protected from over current at both ends really.
Thanks for watching and asking 👌🏼
@@Cablesmith Ahh, ok. Cheers. Good to know.
@@HarveyPaul007 no problem, and remember, no question is a silly question 👍🏼
Blimey started watching and thought ( here we go again ) but great product great video I will be buying some👍
Haha I think the quickwire switch and load is even better ! Thanks for watching mate
Ay up! The greatest spark is back at it again
Haha 👌🏼 cheers Jay
Nice vid
Out on interest why haven't you attracted quick wire to where the black connector is? Completely removing it ...
Yeah agreed the screw In part shame as lever make them more secure and never come loose.
Thanks for the vid
First reason, because I’m an idiot and didn’t think about doing that 😃
But also it wouldn’t really be sticking with the lighting manufacturers instructions if I removed their connector. (That’s what I tell myself to feel better about the first one anyway) 😂
is there a reason you didnt just ditch the connector between the light fitting and the quickfit? i.e. just use the light fittings flex straight in.
just seen you already answered this.
Mainly because I didn’t even notice 🤦🏻♂️ thanks for watching mate
They look decent and will save a load of time as well 👍
You can tell they’re quality made just feeling them
On the T Connector plug, does it matter which side the loop in and loop out goes, or ok either as long as the polarity is correct in both ??
Doesn’t matter as long as polarity is right 👌🏼
@@Cablesmith thanks for the reply. Enjoying the channel content.
@@JimDIY801 thanks mate 👌🏼 appreciate it
Can these be used like standard junction boxes, or are they only for lighting? Like, could I use it to splice into an existing circuit to run power tools?
They are rated at 16A however the terminals only accept a maximum of 1.5mm so 99% of the time that would be a lighting circuit only. (In the U.K.)
I wouldn’t like to advise you to use them for running tools through tho.
Just chipping in to say, yes Sean is right in saying these are 16A so only really for lighting applications. We do have 2.5mm 25A (possibly up to 32A) Junction boxes in development so bear with us...
@@quickwire80 I seen them last night and looking forward to using them. The ring version looks excellent imo.
The splitter id assume would very often have a redundant slot, but still a useful thing to have on the van 👌🏼
This would be good as a YT short
Good job but do you think each house in England can afford this ?
Not at all, but it shouldn’t have needed doing in the first place in this case.
The connector boxes here are usually cut of as they have crappy Chinese screw connector blocks in them, they are replaced with coffin boxes and Wago type connectors,
screw type connector blocks are not safe for long term use as the copper will eventually spread under the screw.
We try and keep lights etc in tact for warranty’s and following manufacturers instructions mainly. But they are dreadful
@@Cablesmith The warranty would be the last thing I would worry about on a fitting costing a few quid, More importantly is the potential fire risk and then if during an inspection it was discovered we could risk being de-registered until the situation was resolved which could include inspection of older installations to confirm none present.
Bang tidy will have to give them a go great video fella
Thank you 😊 they are great
Great little connectors. Have to see if anyone supplies them in Ireland.
They really are, there’s a link in the description for a stockist finder.
@@Cablesmith No option for Ireland on there site. I sent an enquiry to see if they have a supplier over here or would the ship an order over.
In Ireland you may have an issue as your T&E has insulated earth core. I believe the socket connector cannot accept an insulated earth core and never having used the Quickwire stripper I do not know if it will accommodate and cope with an insulated earth.
@@normanboyes4983 the insulated earth core hasn't been in for that long. I was thinking that this would be when changing over from the old 12v halogen spots to LED Spots.
@@roydowling2542 OK - To be honest I was just flagging up as a potential issue as I am not in Ireland and have never actually used the Quick-connect stripping tool. Mind you if you are using on the 12 volt output side then a bit of insulating tape would suffice.😉
Good job setting up a production line to assemble your connectors in advance. I'm sure it probably saved you some fumbling at each down-light rewire.
Sure did, next time i would probably do that at home to save time on site 👌🏼thanks for watching
Because it's in the ceiling I tend to code them C3. Would anyone do the same?
Always situation dependant for me. Metal ceiling structure C2, as was the case in this one. However I didn’t do the EICR/code it
Where in Manchester are you from mate
The posh part of Salford 😉
Never seen these will defo give them a go though.
Defo worth a few in the van 👌🏼
The nationwide problem of defective methods being used to terminate into downlighters is solely caused by the lighting manufacturers and the BS institute not providing and not specifying a standard means of terminating cables into the light fittings. Of course it doesn’t help when sparks cut corners or DIYers, but this was foreseeable.
I agree with you. I’ve never really thought about it like that but that’s correct!
Another good watch mate 👍 I’m slowly working my way through your vids mate 😂😂🙌🏻🙌🏻 I’ve noticed a while back all my down lighters in my house are all single insulated 😭 as from when house was built 18-20 year ago and it has single grey sheath red with cpc and grey sheath single black neutral no cpc ,which I never even new they did 😂 I’ll end up getting a spark to put new in eventually when I can afford it. Don’t think whoever does it could use them boxes tho,instead of replacing whole down light , as the cpc goes straight onto a lug on the metal down light, not sure if the boxes would work 🤔
They would work, but there is cheaper methods. Could be worth just replacing all the lights for the kind that can accept 2 x twin and earths instead.
Enlite E6 pro are my personal favourites at the moment, really nice and bright
@@Cablesmith nice one mate I’ll look into them 👍👍
You might end up fitting them for me yet 😂😂👌👌
@@kingofthetrowel1725 how far are you tho ? 👀😂
@@Cablesmith roughly an hour and 10 mins away mate 😂..is it too far for ya 🤔😀 👍
Nice and quick.
What brand are those Crippers
👍
the ferrule crimpers ? Absolutely no idea it doesn’t even say anything on them.
I got them from a wholesalers about 7+ years ago.
Subscribed 👍🏻 great video not ashamed of using Screwfix they should get this man signed up.
Can’t knock screwfix for a lot of things tbh. Not everything they sell is crap. Just gotta know what your buying.
Prysmian cable, one of the best brands out there for T&E and it’s cheaper than any wholesalers I’ve ever found
Thank you btw 👍🏼 appreciate it
I like it, it would feel strange not needing no earth sleeving but can not fault.
It does feel like your doing something wrong tbh 😀
Nice video bro 👌 like the product, saves time and hassle 😀
Thank you mate 👌🏼
Spin the sidecutters round when stripping and dont twist the flex ends before crimping
Spin the side cutters ?
@@Cablesmith the flush side of the cutters should push away from you, it's makes it easier and you can see better what you stripping
@@ominence5573 I thought that’s what you meant, when I accidentally have them facing that way I hate it, really can’t get used to it that way.
They together very big What aboit qhen thete is small void No way ypu can slide them inside
They fit through a 30mm hole, which is rather small. Standard Downlights are about 70mm hole.
Thanks for watching Derek 👍🏼
@@Cablesmith i dont mean that they fit thru small hole What i mean is small void above the ceiling or could be pipes or other stuff above the cut out so for shallow downlights only.
Triple the price of the job?
Not necessarily, they’re not 3x more expensive than anything else you could use.
@@Cablesmith A connector in a choc box is fine? No stripping tools etc etc, well over the top!
@@stuartlee8041 I’m definitely not knocking any other way of doing things, you can pay more or less for anything in life. Different strokes for different folks I guess
Thank you for watching mate
Defo like the look of them 👍
Thanks for watching bud
@@Cablesmith I couldn’t believe this popped up in my recommendations, cos i also have the same remedial to sort on some recessed lights. I also didn’t carry out the EICR and haven’t been to look yet, so we’re see if it’s a quickcable job.
@@stanleygardiner1780 100% worth quoting for using these. Much cheaper option than changing all the lights 👌🏼
Where is your apprentice?
He had gone to a CCTV job this day for me.
He’s somewhat of a unicorn in these videos. May occasionally see him if your unlucky enough 😂
Empty house, did you bring the toy train set @15:59 for your dinner break 😂
😂😂😂 indeed !
Brilliant
Hi bud great job well done
Thank you mate 👍🏼
great vid and great bit of kit :)
Thank you 👍🏼 they really are
Why would you put another connection in there why didn't you put your new plug right on the can light itself it eliminate that black connector you have
Ahhh I see someone else has said this too, I didn’t even realise, however the little cable from the downlight wouldn’t go in the cordgrip on the quickwire anyway.
Curious to what people are coding basic insulation outside and enclosure when they can’t be accessed through “everyday” use I.E changing the lamp
In this case the company that done the EICR gave it a C2
would like to know this as well... we had an extension done a few months ago and i supplied the builder's electrician with the spotlights; Enlite EFD Pro fire-rated cans that have push-fit connections. Granted these push-fits are not LENLEN but LLEENN but he didn't even remotely try to keep the grey insulation in the enclosure, with about 2-3 inches of blue&brown showing past the cable grip but even more curiously he didn't put the earths in the pushfit - he twisted them together and placed them in a single piece if sleeving (entirely outside the enclosure). What would you guys code that?
also, when your CU is upgraded are you *supposed* to have a schedule of test results for the finished board or is that not a requirement?
@@peter-gn8ey if your downlights had LLEENN then they’re likely made to accept 2 x twin and earths so yes should be inside the enclosure, I personally would give it a C2.
And yes when a board is upgraded you should receive a full installation certificate and schedule of test results
@@Cablesmith cheers. I believe the EIC will come when the builder applies for the building warrant/completion certificate but from my conversation with the electrician before his work finished I don't think he's coming back to test the board. He holds a Scottish JIB ECS card showing 17th Edition (BS7671) on the back under qualifications... would I be able to contact them and say I've had a board fitted and no test results provided?
@@peter-gn8ey it would be him directly or his scheme provider such as NIC EIC.
There’s a lot of different rules in Scotland tho so I’m not sure on what is required tbh
Ive got those screwdrivers they are mint for the price
They are actually really good. I ended up buying another set the week after I liked them that much
Quick wire I like it👌
All good gear from quickwire tbh 👌🏼
Toys for the boys.
great bit of kit but wouldn't it be nice if lighting manufacturers put a bit of thought into their connections ? rather than some of the micky mouse s**t that we end up having to deal with on a daily basis ! The number of times that I 've come accross a snazzy looking light design & then when you come to the connection side of it ,it's absolute junk & you end up wasting time to get a decent ,safe connection.
Completely agree, it shouldn’t be a struggle in the first place.
Thanks for watching mate
A lot of them just don't care , they only try to make it look nice for the customers
Have a look at page 16 of this Best Practice Guide on coding:
www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/media/1626/best-practice-guide-4.pdf
It confirms what I'd describe as common sense by stating that exposed insulation on downlighters is a Code 3, so the EICR should not have described them as 'potentially dangerous', and failed the installation on the strength of that alone.
If I had to do three EICR's day for £90 each, then yes I wouldn't have time to think carefully about what the actual hazards are for each observation listed in Section K, but that makes the report pretty much worthless.
It all depends on the person testing and the job in question, in this instance the ceiling was made up of steel primary support and top hat sections so with a chance of them coming in to contact with bare metal, I would also have gave this one a C2
but your right, occasionally they will never be accessible etc
Thanks for watching mate 👍🏼
@@Cablesmith Indeed page 16 of the guide mentions the presence of metallic parts which would be Code 2 as you say. The ceiling is generally out of reach, but something unpleasant could easily happen if the entire steel structure went live because of one of those downlights.
Thanks for the reply.
@@westinthewest I’ve personally seen the outcome of someone touching a live ceiling structure only a few months ago, a lot worse than you’d think. Still a chance he won’t have the use of his fingers again 😱
Thanks mate
Electrical accessory designers have let the contracting industry for decades ..it’s been down to sparks to “ make things fit “ because of piss poor designing and construction ...any designer should be making with the product with the fitter in mind ( we are after all buying the bloody product ). Raise your game lads you’ve a long way to go
There’s many out there now that do, but still way too many that don’t
efixx eat your heart out 😎
Only real world use ! 😂
If only Quickwire did downlights with the plug built in...
Nice idea tbh they should partner with a lighting brand
Should of crimped and connected all them up at home with a beer in hand then charged it to the job 😁
Even better, got the kids to do it 👌🏼😂
@@Cablesmith like your thinking mate, bung em a freddo bar for there troubles
11:08 ooh a bob the builder special 😆😆😆
NIC EIC registered electrician did those 👀
@richardarblaster 1 hour daily exercise
No idea what this means but thanks for watching 😀
On a serious note, house developers need to hang their heads in shame, employing people who install downlights like that. Makes a mockery out of the NHBC warranties as well.
I agree ! This should come under that warranty, I mentioned it in the video but cropped a lot of clips out to shorten it.
I think the NHBC warranty only covers structural defects I don't think that you can completely blame the house developers as they believe that they are awarding electrical installation contracts who are doing the install correctly meeting the correct standards.
@@anthonybragg fair point. Although I’m sure if this and other owners made a complaint directly to NICEIC about having to pay to rectify work that should be correct in the first place, then absolutely nothing would happen also 😂
@@Cablesmith Assuming that the electrical contractor is a member of the NICEIC others out there the customer to the contractor is the housing developer, not the homeowner the homeowners would have to complain as a group to them. they would have to get the contractor to put it right at their expense or out of the contractor's retention monies. In this case, it is cheaper for the landlord to get you to do it as a satisfactory certificate is needed so it is between days or weeks to get paying tenants.
One thing for sure installation methods like that is unacceptable.
Bird on a wire? 😆😆😆