That is operating Temp but if this is out side and some fool has a BBQ a bit to close. One job I had back when I was 18 was to test cable with a hammer also set it on fire with a insulation tester across it to see how long it did last. Fun days getting wages for playing with fire.
The next question is: Would you ever design a cable run to actually operate near those temperatures? How do you tell a customer that it is completely fine and normal that a cable is so hot that they can burn their fingers (i.e. >62°C) on it? My gut feeling says to stay below "15K above ambient".
@HenryLoenwind This is a common misconception The temperature refers to the copper temperature. By the time heat reaches the outer sheath, it's considerably cooler. Also since the sheath is a relatively poor conductor of heat compared to say metal, it doesn't actually feel that hot. It will not scald your fingers
You will never find the current rating on the data sheet of the cable here in Germany. The current ratings are published by the VDE in the regs. But to make it easier: The reference methods for the installations are the same...at least one thing that's harmonised. DIN VDE 0298-4. The NYY is a german cable type, and used for outdoors. For indoors we use NYM. And sometimes H07V-U in conduit...and now you'll think the last one doesn't fit into the row...before the cable harmonisation this was called NYA here in Germany. But for some cable types the old non-harmonised designation remained. This old system works from the inside of the cable to the outside describing how it is built. First letter N is that the cable type is normalised by the VDE. Next letter Y indicates PVC insulated wires, and the last Y is PVC outer sheathing. Than the suffixes -J and -O. The -O is now these days an exotic one, we mostly use the -J variety due to the reason that the CPC must be everywhere now, even if not required. The big sizes are also available as NAYY, which is the same as NYY but with aluminium conductors. Smallest size of that should be 16mm², that's what the VDE permits as smallest size for aluminium conductors since 1973. Actually the smallest size is 35mm². Smallest conductor size for the normal NYY with copper is 1.5mm². Reference installation methods: abload.de/img/img_1067ttjdx.jpg Table for 25°C ambient temperature, orange is the max. current and in the white the max. rating of the MCB/fuse: abload.de/img/img_1065uckxl.jpg Table for 30°C ambient temperature, orange is the max. current and in the white the max. rating of the MCB/fuse: abload.de/img/img_1066h0jtq.jpg And one major difference between NYY and the twin-and-earth: CPC is always of the same size as the other conductors and always fully insulated. That's because the VDE demands that the CPC must be fully identified green/yellow over the whole length of the cable, with the exception if the CPC is identified by its position (concentric cables like NYCY). And the dimensions of the CPC must be at least: between 1.5 and 16mm²: Same size as the line. between 16 and 35mm²: 16mm² line bigger than 35mm²: at least half the size of the line. These are the minimum requirements, you can always exceed this. If you want additional mechanical protection there's a version of NYY with a copper shield, there's NYCY available. In that case the copper shield serves as the CPC: www.elandcables.com/media/38376/nycy-pvc-pvc-0-6-1kv-power-cable.pdf But in that case you can also install SWA, which I would prefer then cause the current ratings which are on german cables in the regs only and not in the data sheets.
Just a thought. NYY bedding is soft, soft interior is generally good for absorbing impact and protecting the contents. I would love to see a video on how much abuse each can actually take.
Only recently discovered this tuf sheath myself while looking through cef. It really is good stuff. Solves that problem in situations where armoured is over kill but a normal cable isn't enough. Will be using this more.
@@Beariam24 it's not, after buying what cef are calling tuf sheath... It isn't.. it was just nyy with the soft interior. Cef miss selling cable. Efix suggested trying YESSS electrical. They do stock it.
If I'm not mistaken Tuff Sheath cable might have a higher ccc rating at 90 degrees but you cant use it at that rating unless all the switchgear is rated at 90 degrees.
NYY is a German designation but similar cables are used in most European countries. Many also have a grey or white variety for installations protected from direct sunlight but some (e.g. France, Czechia, Slovakia) don't. There are minor technical differences between national standards, mainly in terms of insulation thickness. Austrian E-YY is thinner than German NYY of the same cross-sectional area and number of conductors but in practical terms identical (rated for unprotected use in direct sunlight, buried without additional protection and under water). Countries that were once part of the Soviet Union tend to use flat cables more like T&E, though with full-sized and insulated CPC. Poland also uses this type of flat cable. Bulgaria has a national cable type that is more or less round but does not have any bedding, so the outside is ridged. The same style of cable was common in the German Democratic Republic until its end 1990.
Great info guys, i always thought these were control panel cables and didn't comply with BS EN 50525-2-11. I've got some floodlights i might try them on
I'm switching to tough sheath, bedding material is tons better and stranded is much easier to work with .. cheers for the info, funny how suppliers never dish it out
The current ratings for the NYY-J or NYY-O can mostly be found in the German DIN VDE 0276-603, it also describes the maximum temperatures and the specific resisantes per km for each conductor size and so on, other European standards like the Austrian ÖVE-standards also describe it, but NYY cable was originally developed in Germany so with their ratings you should be relatively safe
Interesting vid. Ive used nyy on outdoor lights, but the doncaster with the data is going to be a must on the van over the next few years. Not seen that stripper before, ill look into that.
Very useful and interesting. I’m guessing both are UV stable for outdoor use ? I often use FO200 for outdoor /indoor lighting and socket outlets on walls 1.5 and 2.5 as it at least has a cpc tube inner core and is UV stable along with compliant metal fixings . Unfortunately it only seems to go up to 4mm (36 amp clipped direct volt drop allowing ) bs8436 . These other cables give more options for all sorts . Great vlog guys
While 90’C cables may take more current you have to make sure that the equipment that the cable connects to is suitable for that temp, as stated in reg 512.1.5. I'm surprised you didn't mention this.
Cef promote NYY as Tuf sheathed cable. Sounds very similar to tuff sheath. I have used Nyy and like it. I will try Doncaster tuff sheath but it looks a similar cost to Swa. I do find a lot of Swa armour rots through at the gland anyway. That might be due to incorrect fitting but I find it a lot. No Swa glands needed, sounds interesting 😊
The CEF version is manufactured to the same BS5467 standard. I specifically looked that up when searching their site. Though theirs are solid not stranded conductors 👍🏻
@@efixx here in North America, we normally use conduit, either Rigid or PVC shedule 80... as well as Undergound Feeder cable. (UF Romex) the electrician that did the power feed for my shed used Rigid 1" galanized pipe... works the best, but is the most expensive per foot.
@@efixx UF Romex is very very similar to UK T&E... same shape, but tends to have the usual tougher insulation of north american cable. Normal 'indoor' romex has paper bedding material that UF lacks
It certainly looks a better option than the NYY. Higher current carrying capacity for the same size cable due to the XLPE insulation and the thick bedding gives it a measurable amount of toughness. Unlike the NYY, which apart from its solid conductors and measly bedding could pass as flex.
Both of these cables make life so much easier than using SWA, and where possible I will use it over SWA. However I think SWA is chosen more often, because people don't know these cables exist as an alternative
As mentioned on earlier comments , having a higher CCC @90c makes no difference if the switchgear being installed isnt rated for 90c , and most arent i believe
This cable is a great option, unfortunately like a lot of great products, they are not readily available, at least not here in Ireland. Would love some of this for my garden project but I may just stick to teeing of SWA in 4 wiskas.
What you get is NYY-J manufactured by Batt Cables. It's PVC not XLPE insulated, and not made to BS 5467. I'm contacting CEF to get their listings amended.
The confusion is rife at CEF....their product range says "The NYY-J Tuf Sheathed Cable is a reliable, fixed-installation, outdoor and indoor solution...." and the products they list as Tuf Sheathed all have NYYJ product codes! Who knows which they are actually selling.
Any idea were i can buy this from? I ordered what CEF are calling tuf sheath.... but all i got was NYY with the very soft white interior and solid cores. I want the doncaster TUF version.!
I have used nyy for a while now. I've had no problems. I've never tried tough sheath but I will definitely try it to compare. Thanks for the great video 👍 For low current drawing equipment e.g. Running to a single light/socket it hardly requires 90° as the csa of the cable will be the same, so it's really just a matter of what's cheaper and easier to work with. For the bigger equipment it may make a significant impact on the cost of the job.
@efixx @efixx I tried to buy it today.. Seems you can get up to 6.0mm2 but not 10... Eland seem to think that nyy is the same thing as tough sheath and you can get 10mm2 nyy if you order it in 5km lengths. Doncaster have it listed on their website www.doncastercables.com/cables/6/24/SWA-and-Mains-Distribution/XLPE-Insulated--PVC-Bedded-and-Tuf-Sheathed-Non-Armoured-Cables/ but you can't order it larger than 6.0mm2
Great video - please can you confirm if we canuse either NYY or Tuff Sheath in twin walled ducting buried no shallower than 600mm for outside garden lighting garden? SWA will be extremely difficult to work with in our situation. We are finding opposing information on this. Thanks
Great video, I think that I would consider using Tuff Sheath rather than SWA in certain installations. Can I assume that it costs less than SWA?. Impressed with the stripping tool do you have a link for it.
We've used NYY-J on car charger installs a lot. It's quite a bit cheaper and easier to work with. Much easier to get a neat looking result if there's limited space. Plus there's no need for a special type of gland (you just use stuffing glands or the tapered type as mentioned in this video). Ideal for certain car chargers
Brownie points for the Wiha hammer.. Whats you guys views on it ? I love mine quite handy for them them tight spots and the handle to bang the raw plugs a god sent
@@efixx AIUI "soft face" is something you use to bash stuff that would/could be damaged by a conventional hammer face. From the pictures on the wiha site it seems like they intend you to use the end of the hammer shaft as a soft face.
If you are drilling through the fabric of the building or through a ceiling cavity less the 50mm from plasterboard tuff sheith would need RCD protection right? If you just drill through the back of the CU to the outside then surface clip tuff sheith would you need RCD Proection?
Please could you give me the part numbers for the Tuff sheath cable? 6mm 3 core and 6mm 5 core. Ive spoken to Doncaster cables and they don't seem to know the difference themselves and have asked for part numbers! Thanks
Because it has a degree of mechanical protection, does that mean the cable itself does not require RCD protecting? For example, supplying a a car charger which then has its own built-in RCD or supplying a detached garage which then has its own own mini consumer unit with RCD protection?
@@efixx the dedicated standard is the german DIN VDE Norm because it is cables made up out of IEC and HD norms. The cable designators are defined in the DIN VDE 0250.
I really hope that although we have left the EU we can still stay harmonised. Being able to use EU cables more suited to the application for a fraction of the price of SWA. British Standards basically allow nothing but SWA which is just overkill most of the time.
Harmonisarion was a joke. Colours are stupid and dangerous. Try looking a blue and brown in low light, you cant tell the different, try the same with black and red. Linesmen still carry yellow, red and blue tape with them, they wrap the harmonised colours in the new colours. So many reasons old colours were far better.
@@peterpeterson9903 Sounds like you either need a colourblind test or a new flashlight? Even in motor terminal boxes that have got warm and faded, never had an issue seeing wire colour
Harmonisation. No thanks .. How many times have I seen a SWA cable with the grey used as a live and the black used as a neutral oh and don’t get me started on 3 phase.
When doing cable calculations, there is an option within Trimble ProDesign to have a thermosetting cables to be ran at 70oC. Typically where would you use this option? Is it more for domestic installations where the equipment can’t operate at 90oC?
Being electricians and of course keen on standards etc...have I missed you response to my question (other than your initial response) what is the IP rating of those Netatmo cameras you reviewed ? I really cannot see them having an IP rating and I sure dont see a seal to inhibit water ingress to the mains connections at all. A Wiska box has an IP rating of IP66 A Pyronix Light Camera has an IP rating of IP65, and having just fitted one, I can say for sure that it looks a far better oroduct than that Netatamo offering, plus the light is controlled by a PIR and the motion detection is VMD. For sure the image quality looks far better. I'm with you on the use of T&E externally as I have seen it crack and and don't see that there is any UV protection . In fact I have see blue sparks track along T&E during darkness and wet weather.
Sorry we could see someone from Netatmo had answered. Is the the camera you fitted www.alertelectrical.com/media/productattachment/0/24738/PyronixEnforcerWiFiLightCameraDataSheet.pdf - we can’t access the full data as you need to register. The flyer seems to show a junction box mounted under the camera - does this mean the Pryronix has a cable out and is a sealed unit?
@@efixx That is the camera, no idea why it has that rubbish junction box beneath it though. The electronics are sealed and the circular base has plug in choc bloc type connectors but that base fixes to a flat base with a rubber type seal,there is a short cable that exits the rear through a tight grommet, cable is too short to be practical so I changed mine. You must have an opinion as electricians as to what you consider looks like a suitable housing for electrical connections, I have fitted many hundreds of cameras..and I mean that, looking at your video (assuming you did not edit out any footage that shows different) that Netatmo camera looks not to be sealed in any way, water could run behind the housing and into the area where the mains connection is. When you looks at the compression glands in this video which afford stability/support at the point of entry plus an effective seal..the Netatmo would have appear to have neither ! internal confomal coatings bear zero relationship to my point.
Netatmo suggest dealing three sides of the JB with silicone - netatmostatic.blob.core.windows.net/static/presence/manual.pdf We have two cameras on trial at the moment in two locations. The one in the video is attached to our industrial unit. we had to use an IP back box to space it off the cladding. We haven’t modified the netamo junction box.
@@efixx I think its safe to say that...it has no IP rating at all ! That is like fitting an batten lampholder on an external wall and using some silicone sealer in an attempt to prevent moisure ingress !! It's not really a product that I think that should be promoted for external use in this country...at all. Like I mentioned earlier..a Wiska box has an IP rating. Even a plastic conduit box has a gasket available ! Would you use a Hager 30amp round junction box outside for mains connection and rely on a drop of silicone sealer if a manufacturer suggest so ? You and any electrician on here know full well that is not good practice, in fact it would be very bad practice and would fail any inspection, would you not agree. Pray tell me, as electricians am I so wrong here that between yourselves that you cannot agree with what I am saying here ? Bear in mind here of course that this is a product avaiable to the general public here in the UK and as likely to be fitted by someone not experienced or qualified in any way. I realise that you may have some sort of commercial connection with Netatmo judging by all the products on the shelves behing you in the video but...I would expect as professionals, an honest opinion on this subject would be appreciated. I will add, I do enjoy watching your channel.
What wiring type on electrical certification would tuff sheath come under please? G1 and g2 is for armoured xlpe cable but can't find what it should be if not armoured
@@raychambers3646 True but there are other pros and cons too. Easier to make off and gland Hituff (whatever it’s called) plus no need for RCD protection on SWA.
I’ve used nyy-j on external lighting. Used 1.5mm 3c and 4c. I will say the bedding material wasn’t the best on the 4c. I’ll go for the tuff sheath now.
Are installers stating on their EICs that these cables do not have a British Standard number and attaching a risk assessment? Not a fan of departures from the regs on a new installation
Didn't mention whether the Tiff Sheath stuff is UV resistant or not? NYY-J definitely is, to the point that it states that on Doncasters own NYY cable on their website, whereas it's NOT in the blurb on their Tuff Sheath specs. This makes me think Tuff Sheath is possibly NOT UV resistant unless someone can link showing it is??
Sorry, I am not clear. Are we saying that this cable can be buried inside a duct and carry 240v (LV). Can someone from efixx confirm that this confirms to the Regs please.
I’m guessing that because it does not have an earthed metallic protective sheath then it may be subject to rcd requirements depending on how and where it’s used,,🤷🏼
After watching I'm still unclear if the tufsheath is a good alternative to armored cable. My main concern could be if gophers, rabbits and ground squirrels would eat the tufsheath?
A lot of new industrial installs are done in SY cable nowadays, been happening for at least 10 years I think. Not to BS standard technically, but has already proven itself just as capable as SWA IF used correctly. The 3rd party inspecting electricians have always ok'd it after reading the standards it meets in the EU and verified the conditions it's installed in. My point being, I'd consider this cable perfectly suitable unless used somewhere it may get impact damage. In which case treat it as unarmoured, put it in a conduit or NYY/SWA junction. That's what worries people about it I think, using this cable needs consideration and thought compared to the old way of SWA or nothing. BS standards don't improve if nobody is willing to try something new which has already proven itself overseas.
@@efixx Sorry poor terminology from me, I meant regarding note 1 on 4E4A. Although lots of manufacturers don't provide specs for what terminals are rated at so would you actually then have to use the ratings for PVC at 70 degrees centigrade?
I was hoping they'd mention this, as it's an important part of the design process. These non-armoured cables don't need an RCD because they are visible throughout their run, and no-one's likely to drive a nail into them. SWA is useful when you need to satisfy 522.6.204 (i), and in other scenarios like direct burial (522.8.10). Looking through 522.6.204 to answer this question, I'm reminded that SWA does not qualify as mechanical protection for part (iv). Those steel wires won't do anything to stop a nail, screw or drill bit from getting in. The steel wires form an 'earthed metallic covering' to make sure the drill bit causes a short circuit when it gets through to the Line conductor. This is different to 'mechanical protection' which is usually hard to achieve in practice, especially with those nasty nail guns builders use. Sorry I went off-topic!
You mention NYY, Hi-Tuff and Tuf Sheath, and promptly dismiss Hi-Tuff as a mistake, but never take the opportunity to explain yourselves: in trying to get terminology correct and "ordering the wrong thing from the wholesalers," where does this 3rd brand name stand? It's kind if important since it's such a popular choice, and many folk may get the impression it's a 3rd object that you are not reviewing at this time... You really should have started with the simple statement "Hi-Tuff is a brand name of an NYY-J, and thus we won't use it again to prevent confusion."
Great Demonstration again lads,, I m must admit , I’ve never worked with the NYY cable and without getting to political , I thought it was going to be manufactured at such a high degree of standard by the EU mainland , It would be to the envy of our British Manufacturers,,, But, after seeing how those cores of the NYY were embedded in what looked like a crumbling Wensleydale cheese, I don’t think I will be using it anytime soon, especially not in a commercial environments,. I think the Tuf sheath out Trumped the NYY in this show down display,, DONCASTOR CABLES -1 EU MAINLAND -0
The bedding material in NYY is simply a 'filler'. Similar to the string we used to use in flex, or the twisted paper used in round cables in north america. In the doncaster stuff it's a bit more structural like the bedding on SWA. Both are fine, just different :)
@@TheChipmunk2008 “Both are fine, just different”.??? Hmmm,I wonder how the NYY would of looked after having a hammer thrusted into it compared to the TUf sheath? I think we need another demonstration of Impact stresses with the swift blow of the whia hammer
@@ryanjones7921 NYY-J isn't suitable for impact which is why it shouldn't be buried. Doesn't mean it's not a good cable. Same way you wouldn't want to install SWA going to a vibrating machine or frequently moved machine, it's not suitable, doesn't mean it's the cables fault.
There is no such thing as thermosetting PVC. PVC is a a thermoplastic - and therefore has a melting point. The insulation is cross-linked polyethylene - not PVC.
if the outer layer of NYY is harder than doncasters tuff sheath, then surely it matters not what the inner material is made of, it could be some expanding compound if water ingresses, what are the both outer diameters? the thickest outer diam would win for impact, we saw Gordon hammer away at only one cable, not both. You could stick NYY on hte outside of a building in Egyptian or Australian deserts and even @ 70c wont start to soften, and in a raging structure fire, it wont matter, both cables will melt to nothing :) and, if your circuit is creating such high temps I'd think you know about it long before teh cable deforms
Hello. Question how many amps each square millimeter of copper wire carries and how many amps bear each millimeter of aluminum wire Please respond from Iraq
*** USEFUL LINK ***
Beama guidance on 70 & 90C conductor temperatures. www.beama.org.uk/static/uploaded/eb388a60-41dc-48e6-ba8be80f6d9601e7.pdf
That is operating Temp but if this is out side and some fool has a BBQ a bit to close. One job I had back when I was 18 was to test cable with a hammer also set it on fire with a insulation tester across it to see how long it did last. Fun days getting wages for playing with fire.
The next question is: Would you ever design a cable run to actually operate near those temperatures? How do you tell a customer that it is completely fine and normal that a cable is so hot that they can burn their fingers (i.e. >62°C) on it? My gut feeling says to stay below "15K above ambient".
@HenryLoenwind This is a common misconception
The temperature refers to the copper temperature. By the time heat reaches the outer sheath, it's considerably cooler.
Also since the sheath is a relatively poor conductor of heat compared to say metal, it doesn't actually feel that hot. It will not scald your fingers
You will never find the current rating on the data sheet of the cable here in Germany. The current ratings are published by the VDE in the regs. But to make it easier: The reference methods for the installations are the same...at least one thing that's harmonised. DIN VDE 0298-4.
The NYY is a german cable type, and used for outdoors. For indoors we use NYM. And sometimes H07V-U in conduit...and now you'll think the last one doesn't fit into the row...before the cable harmonisation this was called NYA here in Germany. But for some cable types the old non-harmonised designation remained.
This old system works from the inside of the cable to the outside describing how it is built. First letter N is that the cable type is normalised by the VDE. Next letter Y indicates PVC insulated wires, and the last Y is PVC outer sheathing. Than the suffixes -J and -O. The -O is now these days an exotic one, we mostly use the -J variety due to the reason that the CPC must be everywhere now, even if not required. The big sizes are also available as NAYY, which is the same as NYY but with aluminium conductors. Smallest size of that should be 16mm², that's what the VDE permits as smallest size for aluminium conductors since 1973. Actually the smallest size is 35mm². Smallest conductor size for the normal NYY with copper is 1.5mm².
Reference installation methods:
abload.de/img/img_1067ttjdx.jpg
Table for 25°C ambient temperature, orange is the max. current and in the white the max. rating of the MCB/fuse:
abload.de/img/img_1065uckxl.jpg
Table for 30°C ambient temperature, orange is the max. current and in the white the max. rating of the MCB/fuse:
abload.de/img/img_1066h0jtq.jpg
And one major difference between NYY and the twin-and-earth: CPC is always of the same size as the other conductors and always fully insulated. That's because the VDE demands that the CPC must be fully identified green/yellow over the whole length of the cable, with the exception if the CPC is identified by its position (concentric cables like NYCY). And the dimensions of the CPC must be at least:
between 1.5 and 16mm²: Same size as the line.
between 16 and 35mm²: 16mm²
line bigger than 35mm²: at least half the size of the line.
These are the minimum requirements, you can always exceed this.
If you want additional mechanical protection there's a version of NYY with a copper shield, there's NYCY available. In that case the copper shield serves as the CPC:
www.elandcables.com/media/38376/nycy-pvc-pvc-0-6-1kv-power-cable.pdf
But in that case you can also install SWA, which I would prefer then cause the current ratings which are on german cables in the regs only and not in the data sheets.
@Defectiveresistor We do not
Just a thought. NYY bedding is soft, soft interior is generally good for absorbing impact and protecting the contents. I would love to see a video on how much abuse each can actually take.
Only recently discovered this tuf sheath myself while looking through cef. It really is good stuff. Solves that problem in situations where armoured is over kill but a normal cable isn't enough. Will be using this more.
Are you sure it’s the Doncaster tuff sheath as I’m looking on Cef and it’s not the same stuff it’s njj
@@Beariam24 it's not, after buying what cef are calling tuf sheath... It isn't.. it was just nyy with the soft interior. Cef miss selling cable.
Efix suggested trying YESSS electrical. They do stock it.
CEF even say in the information previously known as (part number for tuff sheath) now NYY. Mad.
If I'm not mistaken Tuff Sheath cable might have a higher ccc rating at 90 degrees but you cant use it at that rating unless all the switchgear is rated at 90 degrees.
Thanks - we’ve pinned a comment which links to the Beama guidance on the topic.
Was just about to comment about this
This type of cables look like what we have here in the Netherlands and Germany. Thank you for the fantastic review, wish you all a happy day !
NYY is a German designation but similar cables are used in most European countries. Many also have a grey or white variety for installations protected from direct sunlight but some (e.g. France, Czechia, Slovakia) don't. There are minor technical differences between national standards, mainly in terms of insulation thickness. Austrian E-YY is thinner than German NYY of the same cross-sectional area and number of conductors but in practical terms identical (rated for unprotected use in direct sunlight, buried without additional protection and under water).
Countries that were once part of the Soviet Union tend to use flat cables more like T&E, though with full-sized and insulated CPC. Poland also uses this type of flat cable. Bulgaria has a national cable type that is more or less round but does not have any bedding, so the outside is ridged. The same style of cable was common in the German Democratic Republic until its end 1990.
Great information - thanks 🙏
Thanks for explaining the difference. For new staters in industry this clears a lot of confusion. 👍👍👍
Great info guys, i always thought these were control panel cables and didn't comply with BS EN 50525-2-11. I've got some floodlights i might try them on
I'm switching to tough sheath, bedding material is tons better and stranded is much easier to work with .. cheers for the info, funny how suppliers never dish it out
Great video guys. I’m doing all my EV install using tuff sheath now
Honestly so glad you have made this video, I'll be pushing for Tough sheathe in a lot more jobs!
Thanks for the feedback Matthew 👍
Loving the eFIXX videos at the moment. Cheers guys.
Brilliant Chanel for electricians.
The current ratings for the NYY-J or NYY-O can mostly be found in the German DIN VDE 0276-603, it also describes the maximum temperatures and the specific resisantes per km for each conductor size and so on, other European standards like the Austrian ÖVE-standards also describe it, but NYY cable was originally developed in Germany so with their ratings you should be relatively safe
Great info guys. I for one, hadn't realised there was a difference between the NYY and the Tuff-Sheath. You learn something everyday.
Thanks 🙏 Brian
Interesting vid. Ive used nyy on outdoor lights, but the doncaster with the data is going to be a must on the van over the next few years. Not seen that stripper before, ill look into that.
We’ll do a review of the stripper soon.
Would love a video on requirements for cables buried in the ground that aren’t armoured and any materials that you would use to do such a job.
Twin wall ducting and a sensible depth and routing.
Brilliant info guys. Always nice to learn something new. Keep up the good work!
Very useful and interesting. I’m guessing both are UV stable for outdoor use ?
I often use FO200 for outdoor /indoor lighting and socket outlets on walls 1.5 and 2.5 as it at least has a cpc tube inner core and is UV stable along with compliant metal fixings . Unfortunately it only seems to go up to 4mm (36 amp clipped direct volt drop allowing ) bs8436 . These other cables give more options for all sorts . Great vlog guys
Thanks - Yes it can be used outdoors - again it always comes back to using a trusted manufacturer.
While 90’C cables may take more current you have to make sure that the equipment that the cable connects to is suitable for that temp, as stated in reg 512.1.5. I'm surprised you didn't mention this.
Q and A video to follow 👍. Thanks for commenting and watching
Cef promote NYY as Tuf sheathed cable. Sounds very similar to tuff sheath. I have used Nyy and like it. I will try Doncaster tuff sheath but it looks a similar cost to Swa. I do find a lot of Swa armour rots through at the gland anyway. That might be due to incorrect fitting but I find it a lot. No Swa glands needed, sounds interesting 😊
Another great comment thanks for sharing your experience. 👍
The CEF version is manufactured to the same BS5467 standard. I specifically looked that up when searching their site. Though theirs are solid not stranded conductors 👍🏻
@@CarlCosby Unfortunately the listing is wrong. The cable is bog-standard NYY-J by Batt Cables and doesn't comply with BS 5467.
Yeah you won't get Doncaster cable at cities, since the family split the business, sounds like the Mafia 😂😂
Nice cableing! wish we used that type here in the states!
What do you typically use for underground wiring in the US John.
@@efixx here in North America, we normally use conduit, either Rigid or PVC shedule 80... as well as Undergound Feeder cable. (UF Romex) the electrician that did the power feed for my shed used Rigid 1" galanized pipe... works the best, but is the most expensive per foot.
Thanks John - we’ll have an explore of the UF Romex !
@@efixx UF Romex is very very similar to UK T&E... same shape, but tends to have the usual tougher insulation of north american cable. Normal 'indoor' romex has paper bedding material that UF lacks
I use NYY a fair bit, but I like the look of the Doncaster one better !
It certainly looks a better option than the NYY. Higher current carrying capacity for the same size cable due to the XLPE insulation and the thick bedding gives it a measurable amount of toughness. Unlike the NYY, which apart from its solid conductors and measly bedding could pass as flex.
Both of these cables make life so much easier than using SWA, and where possible I will use it over SWA.
However I think SWA is chosen more often, because people don't know these cables exist as an alternative
@@Woodkin007 of a cable was going under ground I would only use SWA, any other occasion I would use hi-tuff or similar
As mentioned on earlier comments , having a higher CCC @90c makes no difference if the switchgear being installed isnt rated for 90c , and most arent i believe
Thanks Paul - we’ve posted a link to Beama note on the topic. We will explore the topic further.
This cable is a great option, unfortunately like a lot of great products, they are not readily available, at least not here in Ireland. Would love some of this for my garden project but I may just stick to teeing of SWA in 4 wiskas.
NYY-J and NYM-J are the most important and widely used cable types in german building installations.
Can be confusing when you go on CEF and search for tuf sheath and it displays cable with a nyyj part code, solid conductors and bs5467 standard.
Think they need to take a look at that 👀
What you get is NYY-J manufactured by Batt Cables. It's PVC not XLPE insulated, and not made to BS 5467. I'm contacting CEF to get their listings amended.
CEF presently still falsely advertising NYY-J as tuf sheathed 🙈 with bs5467
The NYY we call 1KV Flex in Spain or "Cable Manguera de 1KV" and it's 90°
Do you have any “trusted” cable manufacturers for the1kv flex
@@efixx www.tim-kabel.hr/images/stories/katalog/datasheetHRV/0501_NYY_ENG.pdf current raiting for NYY cables
Great thanks. - will digest tomorrow
@@efixx Topcable, Prysmain, General Cable, Miguélez, to name a few.
Is that cable a replacement for the perelli fp 200 which as remember was an Arctic grade cable?.
Great video lads as always. Thank you
What are the uses and/or perceived benefits of making an Armoured cable without the armour?
If you don't need to be as tough as tuff sheath I sometimes use H07rnf.
The confusion is rife at CEF....their product range says "The NYY-J Tuf Sheathed Cable is a reliable, fixed-installation, outdoor and indoor solution...." and the products they list as Tuf Sheathed all have NYYJ product codes! Who knows which they are actually selling.
Any idea were i can buy this from? I ordered what CEF are calling tuf sheath.... but all i got was NYY with the very soft white interior and solid cores. I want the doncaster TUF version.!
Try YESSS electrical
I have used nyy for a while now. I've had no problems. I've never tried tough sheath but I will definitely try it to compare. Thanks for the great video 👍
For low current drawing equipment e.g. Running to a single light/socket it hardly requires 90° as the csa of the cable will be the same, so it's really just a matter of what's cheaper and easier to work with. For the bigger equipment it may make a significant impact on the cost of the job.
I wonder if the volt drop is different between the two cables..
Only if they’ve fibbed about the copper content (see fake cable video)
@efixx @efixx I tried to buy it today.. Seems you can get up to 6.0mm2 but not 10...
Eland seem to think that nyy is the same thing as tough sheath and you can get 10mm2 nyy if you order it in 5km lengths.
Doncaster have it listed on their website www.doncastercables.com/cables/6/24/SWA-and-Mains-Distribution/XLPE-Insulated--PVC-Bedded-and-Tuf-Sheathed-Non-Armoured-Cables/ but you can't order it larger than 6.0mm2
Is there a cable recomanded for placing directly on wooden walls without other protection? Thank you
Outside this cable is a great choice.
have you got a link for that cable stripper i cant find it online please
Look under WEICON or JOKARI cable stripper, there ar many types.
Great info as always what was the make and model number or the cable stripper Garry used please
Thanks - We put a link in the description - it’s made by Weicon - they do a few different types - we will do a full review soon.
Great video - please can you confirm if we canuse either NYY or Tuff Sheath in twin walled ducting buried no shallower than 600mm for outside garden lighting garden? SWA will be extremely difficult to work with in our situation. We are finding opposing information on this. Thanks
Great video, I think that I would consider using Tuff Sheath rather than SWA in certain installations. Can I assume that it costs less than SWA?. Impressed with the stripping tool do you have a link for it.
Link to the Weicon stripper in the description. Should be more cost effective than SWA -.especially once you figure in glands etc
We've used NYY-J on car charger installs a lot. It's quite a bit cheaper and easier to work with. Much easier to get a neat looking result if there's limited space. Plus there's no need for a special type of gland (you just use stuffing glands or the tapered type as mentioned in this video). Ideal for certain car chargers
Very educational, thank you
Brownie points for the Wiha hammer..
Whats you guys views on it ? I love mine quite handy for them them tight spots and the handle to bang the raw plugs a god sent
It’s better than Gary’s 1950’s claw 🔨 hammer. Still trying to figure out what a “soft face” is on the Wiha.
@@efixx isn't a soft face the hammer head pretty sure you can get hammers you can change the head from say soft, medium ect
@@efixx AIUI "soft face" is something you use to bash stuff that would/could be damaged by a conventional hammer face. From the pictures on the wiha site it seems like they intend you to use the end of the hammer shaft as a soft face.
Do you need conduit to install it for tube led fittings in the ceiling?
As always another good video, cheers guys
What fixings would you use for fixing the Tuff Sheath cable?
Video coming out soon to answer that question 👍
I do like a surprise! Would you mind sending a link to the cable stripper you used to. I bought one like this but it was poor quality.
Great video as usual! What is the install system behind you on the wall?
Video on that system is coming next week - it’s a bit of an eye opener.
It looks like Busbar trunking system
I also thought it was some sort of trunking system though I am not familiar with that one. Looking forward to the video!
If you are drilling through the fabric of the building or through a ceiling cavity less the 50mm from plasterboard tuff sheith would need RCD protection right? If you just drill through the back of the CU to the outside then surface clip tuff sheith would you need RCD Proection?
Please could you give me the part numbers for the Tuff sheath cable? 6mm 3 core and 6mm 5 core. Ive spoken to Doncaster cables and they don't seem to know the difference themselves and have asked for part numbers!
Thanks
What's your opinion on Ho7 for EV charging stations?
We wouldn’t choose it for a fixed installation from a distribution board. It’s a robust flexible cable for final connections or mobile installation.
Because it has a degree of mechanical protection, does that mean the cable itself does not require RCD protecting? For example, supplying a a car charger which then has its own built-in RCD or supplying a detached garage which then has its own own mini consumer unit with RCD protection?
It’s depends how the cable is routed just like you would with T&E .
@@efixx so it couldn't be clipped direct without RCD protection?
So is Nyy Hi tuff ?? It's confusing. We used Hi tuff on street lighting years ago , the outer sheath was like a pipe it was that solid .
We think a dedicated standard is needed
@@efixx You should have made and shown a Venn diagram to show which naming code is a subset of which category.
@@efixx the dedicated standard is the german DIN VDE Norm because it is cables made up out of IEC and HD norms.
The cable designators are defined in the DIN VDE 0250.
Can you answer please
Is that nyy-j 3x50 sm/25 rm mean that in the cable we'll found 3 wires of 50 and one of 25 green yellow ?
I really hope that although we have left the EU we can still stay harmonised. Being able to use EU cables more suited to the application for a fraction of the price of SWA. British Standards basically allow nothing but SWA which is just overkill most of the time.
Harmonisarion was a joke. Colours are stupid and dangerous. Try looking a blue and brown in low light, you cant tell the different, try the same with black and red. Linesmen still carry yellow, red and blue tape with them, they wrap the harmonised colours in the new colours. So many reasons old colours were far better.
@@peterpeterson9903 Sounds like you either need a colourblind test or a new flashlight? Even in motor terminal boxes that have got warm and faded, never had an issue seeing wire colour
Harmonisation. No thanks .. How many times have I seen a SWA cable with the grey used as a live and the black used as a neutral oh and don’t get me started on 3 phase.
Tuff sheathed cable NYY Cable what protection is advised MCB, RCD or RCBO?
When doing cable calculations, there is an option within Trimble ProDesign to have a thermosetting cables to be ran at 70oC. Typically where would you use this option? Is it more for domestic installations where the equipment can’t operate at 90oC?
There isn’t any switchgear I have found yet that’s certified for 90deg...I only use xlpe run to 70 Deg in amtech
Being electricians and of course keen on standards etc...have I missed you response to my question (other than your initial response) what is the IP rating of those Netatmo cameras you reviewed ?
I really cannot see them having an IP rating and I sure dont see a seal to inhibit water ingress to the mains connections at all. A Wiska box has an IP rating of IP66 A Pyronix Light Camera has an IP rating of IP65, and having just fitted one, I can say for sure that it looks a far better oroduct than that Netatamo offering, plus the light is controlled by a PIR and the motion detection is VMD.
For sure the image quality looks far better.
I'm with you on the use of T&E externally as I have seen it crack and and don't see that there is any UV protection . In fact I have see blue sparks track along T&E during darkness and wet weather.
Sorry we could see someone from Netatmo had answered. Is the the camera you fitted www.alertelectrical.com/media/productattachment/0/24738/PyronixEnforcerWiFiLightCameraDataSheet.pdf - we can’t access the full data as you need to register. The flyer seems to show a junction box mounted under the camera - does this mean the Pryronix has a cable out and is a sealed unit?
@@efixx That is the camera, no idea why it has that rubbish junction box beneath it though.
The electronics are sealed and the circular base has plug in choc bloc type connectors but that base fixes to a flat base with a rubber type seal,there is a short cable that exits the rear through a tight grommet, cable is too short to be practical so I changed mine.
You must have an opinion as electricians as to what you consider looks like a suitable housing for electrical connections, I have fitted many hundreds of cameras..and I mean that, looking at your video (assuming you did not edit out any footage that shows different) that Netatmo camera looks not to be sealed in any way, water could run behind the housing and into the area where the mains connection is. When you looks at the compression glands in this video which afford stability/support at the point of entry plus an effective seal..the Netatmo would have appear to have neither ! internal confomal coatings bear zero relationship to my point.
Netatmo suggest dealing three sides of the JB with silicone - netatmostatic.blob.core.windows.net/static/presence/manual.pdf We have two cameras on trial at the moment in two locations. The one in the video is attached to our industrial unit. we had to use an IP back box to space it off the cladding. We haven’t modified the netamo junction box.
@@efixx I think its safe to say that...it has no IP rating at all !
That is like fitting an batten lampholder on an external wall and using some silicone sealer in an attempt to prevent moisure ingress !! It's not really a product that I think that should be promoted for external use in this country...at all.
Like I mentioned earlier..a Wiska box has an IP rating. Even a plastic conduit box has a gasket available !
Would you use a Hager 30amp round junction box outside for mains connection and rely on a drop of silicone sealer if a manufacturer suggest so ? You and any electrician on here know full well that is not good practice, in fact it would be very bad practice and would fail any inspection, would you not agree.
Pray tell me, as electricians am I so wrong here that between yourselves that you cannot agree with what I am saying here ? Bear in mind here of course that this is a product avaiable to the general public here in the UK and as likely to be fitted by someone not experienced or qualified in any way.
I realise that you may have some sort of commercial connection with Netatmo judging by all the products on the shelves behing you in the video but...I would expect as professionals, an honest opinion on this subject would be appreciated.
I will add, I do enjoy watching your channel.
Would this cable be suitable to feed a garden room/ shed. Clipped direct low level to a wall/ fench
What wiring type on electrical certification would tuff sheath come under please? G1 and g2 is for armoured xlpe cable but can't find what it should be if not armoured
I have been installing the nyy from cef, would you recommend to replace this?
Would you need extra protection for buried cable if installed with sand bedding?
Twin wall conduit.
Yes BS7671 requires additional protection - the NICEIC snags and solutions book suggests various methods.
@@normanboyes4983 I think I would just use swa .
@@raychambers3646 True but there are other pros and cons too. Easier to make off and gland Hituff (whatever it’s called) plus no need for RCD protection on SWA.
@@normanboyes4983 a lot of lampposts are geared up for swa installs but can be a pain to work ,I used to get the job because I had small hands !
I’ve used nyy-j on external lighting. Used 1.5mm 3c and 4c. I will say the bedding material wasn’t the best on the 4c. I’ll go for the tuff sheath now.
CEF are advertising it as tuff sheath but then it’s part code is njj? It’s quite hard to get hold of. Who stocks the Doncaster?
Yesss electrical should have it in stock
What is the cable stripping tool please?
We used this one ⚡️th-cam.com/video/sGLUhlMQOzI/w-d-xo.html
Are installers stating on their EICs that these cables do not have a British Standard number and attaching a risk assessment? Not a fan of departures from the regs on a new installation
Didn't mention whether the Tiff Sheath stuff is UV resistant or not? NYY-J definitely is, to the point that it states that on Doncasters own NYY cable on their website, whereas it's NOT in the blurb on their Tuff Sheath specs. This makes me think Tuff Sheath is possibly NOT UV resistant unless someone can link showing it is??
Where u buy that Tuff sheath cable
So just so I’m clear you can bury this cable within the ground as I would for swa ?
No unless in twin wall conduit.
Sorry, I am not clear. Are we saying that this cable can be buried inside a duct and carry 240v (LV). Can someone from efixx confirm that this confirms to the Regs please.
nyy is about 12pence more per meter than armour so not much in it and definitely more easy to run, strip etc.
I really dislike XLPE insulation... hard to strip
What is the b's number of tug sheet cable is in in the regs?
Further to the previous comment. Even though Doncaster cables class it as ‘armoured’ does it require additional protection via an RCD?
I’m guessing that because it does not have an earthed metallic protective sheath then it may be subject to rcd requirements depending on how and where it’s used,,🤷🏼
After watching I'm still unclear if the tufsheath is a good alternative to armored cable. My main concern could be if gophers, rabbits and ground squirrels would eat the tufsheath?
I'd only be using it above dround for external lights etc
Shame they stopped making this stuff. Just had to buy 25m of NYY from CEF because Doncaster discontinued Tuff Sheath. :/
Good video. Unfortunately NYY cable cannot be used for fixed wiring in the U.K as it is does not comply to BS7671. Looks like good stuff though.
You can use cables manufactured to an IEC or Harmonised standard.
A lot of new industrial installs are done in SY cable nowadays, been happening for at least 10 years I think. Not to BS standard technically, but has already proven itself just as capable as SWA IF used correctly. The 3rd party inspecting electricians have always ok'd it after reading the standards it meets in the EU and verified the conditions it's installed in.
My point being, I'd consider this cable perfectly suitable unless used somewhere it may get impact damage. In which case treat it as unarmoured, put it in a conduit or NYY/SWA junction. That's what worries people about it I think, using this cable needs consideration and thought compared to the old way of SWA or nothing. BS standards don't improve if nobody is willing to try something new which has already proven itself overseas.
Aren't most conductors only rated to 70 degrees which means you'd have to derate the Tuff Sheath anyway?
Most SWA sold in the Uk is XLPE insulation rated to 90C.
@@efixx Sorry poor terminology from me, I meant regarding note 1 on 4E4A. Although lots of manufacturers don't provide specs for what terminals are rated at so would you actually then have to use the ratings for PVC at 70 degrees centigrade?
Great point - it’s an area which needs exploring more - especially as lots of EV chargers have PCB terminals.
So anyone know who is selling this. CEF are selling Tuf sheath but it is also solid core and NYY. Rexel don’t appear to list it also.
Try Yesss electrical
Tuff Sheath sounds like N2XH without LSZH!
Why would you run a cable @ 90deg C?
So must the cable still be protected by an RCD as it's not SWA?
I was hoping they'd mention this, as it's an important part of the design process. These non-armoured cables don't need an RCD because they are visible throughout their run, and no-one's likely to drive a nail into them. SWA is useful when you need to satisfy 522.6.204 (i), and in other scenarios like direct burial (522.8.10).
Looking through 522.6.204 to answer this question, I'm reminded that SWA does not qualify as mechanical protection for part (iv). Those steel wires won't do anything to stop a nail, screw or drill bit from getting in. The steel wires form an 'earthed metallic covering' to make sure the drill bit causes a short circuit when it gets through to the Line conductor. This is different to 'mechanical protection' which is usually hard to achieve in practice, especially with those nasty nail guns builders use.
Sorry I went off-topic!
So much for simply flying wiring within the Europe, might as well go back to our old colours and coatings lol
RYB 😀
Would this offer similar protection to SY?
Use of SY cable in the UK is a can of worms. We wouldn’t recommend it for fixed installations outside.
@@efixx i work in industrial and we use SY everywhere its good stuff. wasn't sure if this could replace it.
You mention NYY, Hi-Tuff and Tuf Sheath, and promptly dismiss Hi-Tuff as a mistake, but never take the opportunity to explain yourselves: in trying to get terminology correct and "ordering the wrong thing from the wholesalers," where does this 3rd brand name stand? It's kind if important since it's such a popular choice, and many folk may get the impression it's a 3rd object that you are not reviewing at this time... You really should have started with the simple statement "Hi-Tuff is a brand name of an NYY-J, and thus we won't use it again to prevent confusion."
6:48 'Thermosetting PVC'?
He meant XLPE
Have your hands ever set on fire? They must have with all the rubbing of palms.
At least twice a week in this cold weather
@@efixx heehee.?
Great Demonstration again lads,, I m must admit , I’ve never worked with the NYY cable and without getting to political , I thought it was going to be manufactured at such a high degree of standard by the EU mainland , It would be to the envy of our British Manufacturers,,, But, after seeing how those cores of the NYY were embedded in what looked like a crumbling Wensleydale cheese, I don’t think I will be using it anytime soon, especially not in a commercial environments,. I think the Tuf sheath out Trumped the NYY in this show down display,,
DONCASTOR CABLES -1
EU MAINLAND -0
😀 - We are sure the EU viewers will chip in soon and pull something out the bag 💼 we didn’t know existed. Until then let’s bask in the cable glory!
The bedding material in NYY is simply a 'filler'. Similar to the string we used to use in flex, or the twisted paper used in round cables in north america. In the doncaster stuff it's a bit more structural like the bedding on SWA. Both are fine, just different :)
@@TheChipmunk2008 “Both are fine, just different”.??? Hmmm,I wonder how the NYY would of looked after having a hammer thrusted into it compared to the TUf sheath? I think we need another demonstration of Impact stresses with the swift blow of the whia hammer
@@ryanjones7921 I have an offcut of 1.5 NYY-J. Will try tomorrow. I suspect it will be fine. The sheath is really hard
@@ryanjones7921 NYY-J isn't suitable for impact which is why it shouldn't be buried. Doesn't mean it's not a good cable. Same way you wouldn't want to install SWA going to a vibrating machine or frequently moved machine, it's not suitable, doesn't mean it's the cables fault.
There is no such thing as thermosetting PVC. PVC is a a thermoplastic - and therefore has a melting point. The insulation is cross-linked polyethylene - not PVC.
if the outer layer of NYY is harder than doncasters tuff sheath, then surely it matters not what the inner material is made of, it could be some expanding compound if water ingresses, what are the both outer diameters? the thickest outer diam would win for impact, we saw Gordon hammer away at only one cable, not both.
You could stick NYY on hte outside of a building in Egyptian or Australian deserts and even @ 70c wont start to soften, and in a raging structure fire, it wont matter, both cables will melt to nothing :)
and, if your circuit is creating such high temps I'd think you know about it long before teh cable deforms
Can you guys set up a governing body as I’d much rather work with you than I would the idiots at the NICEIC + others
Ok
Efixx soft wire can take a higher amps right more than solid wire ???
No.
Hello. Question how many amps each square millimeter of copper wire carries and how many amps bear each millimeter of aluminum wire Please respond from Iraq
Depends upon the cross section area and conductor temperature.
@efixx Approximately how many amperees are according to the Iraqi airspace. Thank you