To start comparing quotes and simplify insurance-buying, check out Policygenius policygenius.com/bourbonmoth. Thanks to Policygenius for sponsoring this video!
I've worked in 5+ houses where Rubio Monocoat was used on the wood floors in the last eight years or so. I've seen thousands of square feet of it applied. It's tough, I return to properties for work and am always impressed with it's the durability over time. It touches up like a dream, you can actually just do spots and not have it flash like mad. Almost all my daily work is finishing, so I've always been about the 'tried and true'. Rubio has impressed me and has attained that status in my book. I was surprised to see so many woodworkers on YT using it, not sure why. Guess I thought it was a floor thing. My only complaint is sometimes open grain woods don't always fill enough to keep stuff from getting in the vessel elements and having to be sanded out. Waah.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
I figured out what I love about this channel besides the obvious fun stuff like the intro. It’s not pretentious. Some wood workers are great for tutorial but some are so pretentious too serious. Not to mention this is the only channel with THE FORMAN who we need to see more of.
LOVE the floor sander buffing pad idea, man. For rags, I use old bed sheets from a charity shop. They usually have a hard time getting rid of them. On my last rags mission, they filled up a garbage bag with random sheets and through in a little Spiderman toy for my boy and charged me $5. Hack up the sheets and you’ve got rags for years.
Thanks for this video. Finish always seems like the most intimidating part of the whole project because if you get it wrong it can be so much work to fix it.
For floors where we want to shine up the Rubio, we double coat it and let the second coat dry for an hour or so, then come back with a white buffer pad and hit the whole thing with that. Polishes it up and you don’t lose the ability to touch up or recoat later.
Do you mean you let the "pool" of finish set for an hour then wiped, then buffed - or you put on the second coat, wiped up the excess THEN waited an hour to buff?
For small voids like this I have switched to using the black glue sticks that is used for Paintless Dent Repair (PDR). It takes a good glue gun, but it works like a charm. It does not shrink and is ready to sand in the amount of time it takes for the glue to cool.
Tuck Tape... used for sealing rigid foam board and sheathing, usually for wall insulation installs. Think of it as the multi-purpose duct tape version of packing tape. The stuff is great and sticks to everything, but can be peeled off with some effort. It is specifically recommended for epoxy applications as well (mold release). I always have a couple rolls on hand.
It’s originally for taping up seams on vapour barrier when insulating. It’s also brilliant for absolutely ruining your brother’s day by sticking it to the back of his head…
to answer your question as to what that tape is initially meant for, it's used to tape vapor barrier together so there isn't an open seam behind your drywall or siding. It's also used to tape the vapor barrier to your electrical boxes. this all just make sure you have a nice seal.
I discovered Monocoat this Spring and I LOVE it. Inspires me to do more projects because I really do suck at other types of finishes. This stuff is sooooo easy and looks fantastic.
I love the look of white oak and am excited to work with it for the first time in my current project. I expected to go with Cotton White but found that Mist does the best at retaining the natural look of the white oak!
I used Rubio for the first time about 2 years ago and instantly fell in love with the ease of application. I used a 275ml can plus the 75ml can of the 2C. 350ml of product covered a piece that was 72" x 36" x 24". I used every drop I had and it came out amazing. I would highly recommend Rubio for any project 👍
Rubio tip - How to determine how much to mix up ? No one seems to mention this in videos and it’s critical to not wasting it due to cost (as you did mention). I’ve seen amounts needed such as 1floz (~30mL) per ~6.5sqft while others say to use 3.25-3.50mL/sqft. That’s total volumes for the 3:1 mixture.
Rubio is my go-to stain. I refuse to use anything else. The color options, combinable stains to create custom color finishes, and durability of the product checks all my boxes. So easy to use and quick finishing. I love their latest upgrade to the maintenance oil- sheen plus. Adds a beautiful satin sheen that looks flawless.
@@coppulor6500 you can start wherever you like, it just depends on how much material you want to remove. You wont remove a lot with higher grits.. they are too smooth. So it may take very long and cost a lot in sandpaper to remove a lot of material. As for the "why", it's because following this rule will ensure that you're able to remove the previous grit's scratches. Just go in opposite directions until the previous grit's scratches are gone. Then you keep moving up to desired grit for smoothness.
@@coppulor6500 higher grit eats more material, and thus its helpful at removing saw marks, small scratches, removing dust, ash and whatnot that could be trapped inside the pores of the woods. tone down or remove fungal marks if you are working wilder wood, stains of paint, oil or glue that could have penetrated the fibers. in short, low grit homogenizes wood.
Thanks for pointing out that all excess needs to be removed thoroughly after some time. This is where I messed up in the past and ended up with a unusable, sticky surface. In my (limited) experience this step is also necessary with other oil/wax surface finishes.
Another new convert to Rubio here. We just finished some walnut floating shelves with it today. Bought an extra because we didn't think the tiny little can could handle 100 bdft. Took less than two hours, the finish looks so clean and professional, unbelievably easy and fast. And that was in a 50° garage. AND, we didn't even use one 350ml can combo, still have about 1/5th left. When they say a little bit goes a loooooooong way, they aren't kidding. Sorry I sound like a shill here, but it really is that good, just blown away how much better it is than the poly we've been using at basically every concievable angle. Not going to be spending a day+ putting on half a dozen coats of stinking, running, lapping, dust-spotting poly that takes forever especially in cold weather. $60 for the tiny can may seem ludicrous if you're used to 4x the amount for 4x less price of regular varnish, but I'll say the quality and speed of the finish is actually a much better value than fighting multiple coats to make poly look good. Thanks Bourbon Moth for the heads up. That ends my commercial, I guess. Hemmed and hawwed over trying it because it seemed too good to be true- nope, wish I tried this stuff years ago. One of those rare products where it's not just marketing BS, it is everything they say.
Another helpful tip for you, you can use two strips of painters tape to pour from paint cans instead of having to use a syringe and having to clean it or toss it afterwards. On TH-cam there is a 1min16sec video entitled "How to Pour Paint Without Making a Mess - Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford" that shows the technique.
Great video and entertaining as always, thanks! I agree about the glossy finish… I don’t mind it but I kinda prefer a more matte finish (never loved the look of polyurethane that a lot of people go with) PS: Sorry to hear about your dad… lost my dad a few years ago in my 20’s and it sucks! Prayers for you and your family!
Thank you. First ever demo of the Rubio finish start to finish. This was very helpful. I’m ready to make the quantum leap from oil based poly crap to a more professional looking finish 🤞🏼
Not sure why sanding is the most hated part. It's my favorite. I'll sand pieces to 400 or 800 grit so they are glossy before applying a finish. Sanding is great and worth the time if you are patient.
This video came out with perfect timing. I am finishing up a pair of benchtop tool boxes for my sons that I built out of red oak. This ought to suit the job perfectly. Thanks Bourbon!
I grew up on the Oregon Coast and spent quite a bit of time in the part of the Willamette Valley near your place, Go Beaves, one of the things I really miss now that I'm living in Montana are the Rhododendrons, love the ones outside your window near the end of the video. Love your content and delivery...
many people don't know how to sand! thank you! i'm a perfectionist and hate the stupid swirl marks/pig tails left by skipping grits. I pretty much always go 80,120,180,220,400(depending on the finish). Also, try odies oil :)
Just got my Spec Ops tools, Hammer, Tape, Utility knife, center punches, and chisel set, they are some great tools, love them. Thanks for turning me on to them. I plan on ordering some more.
Just used Rubio for the first time. I usually use linseed oil and wax for my projects. But this is several steps above. I am very pleased with the product. Thanks for the recommendation!
I’m definitely going to follow your lead on this one. I’ve never stained anything but I need to learn because eventually I want to build furniture after I’m done with my house. I took an old rocking chair and started sanding it down and though I never really cared for that stain you use because I thought it was too late, I see that it would work perfectly on this chair. I hate that it’s so expensive but I guess you get what you pay for right. Thanks for the video. Can’t wait to try it.
Some return knowledge for you, a tool tip, for $15 try out the new 3M Xtract Cubitron II Net Discs. 3M part number 88516 is their 6 inch 12 piece multi-pack that includes two each of 80/120/180/220/240/320 grits. You'll love them so much you will throw out those boxes of Festool sand paper and not even feel bad for doing it, the new 3M product is just that good.
I really appreciate you doing this video. I've had Rubio in my cart 4 times and haven't purchased it because I didn't understand how to mix it and apply it. The price also threw me off, but seeing how much one can will do it seems in parity with other finishes on a per application basis. Thanks!
I just tried Rubio for the first time a couple months ago and loved it. I do recommend to take a project to the next level. It feels very good to the hand, smooth but still like wood. Just make sure you do s good job of the wipe off, I missed an area and it felt sticky days latter. Had to sand it off and reapply
Great Video! I would suggest that the rags are submerged in water after the application as we learned the hard way when left out by the trash in this method and one rags caught fire and tooks the can with it
I am new to the Rubio monocote. I do like it better than Osmo. The thing with the hardener or no hardener, with you can handle it in 24 hours, but full cure is about a week. Without the hardener, you can handle it in a day or two, but full cure takes about a month. I think they have a new 'top cote' which is ceramic and comes from the auto industry. Have yet to try that one.
Scribbling a pattern over the board with a pencil makes sure you don't go too fast and makes it easy to stay on track if you start to drift off with whatever you might be listening to. Cleaning between sanding is a great idea. Also the cleaner is similar to mineral spirits, but definitely use a cleaner, it makes a big difference. And let's you see if you've missed anything with sanding. Don't skimp on the hardner...cure time with hardener was 7 days to full cure, maybe it's gotten faster. But it's not linear, at 2 or 3 days it's almost 75% or more and can be easily handled. Without the hardener is literally weeks according to Rubio. use the syringes for sure, it's an amazing method. Allows you to mix only what you need and then mix a tiny bit more if needed.
Thanks for (as always) v helpful video. I’ve a question that may seem silly but I don’t recall seeing anyone address. How do you tell when to move on to the next grit level of sandpaper? Touch, feel, sight, sound, time? Cheers,
At first I thought you are a little cringy … but I was very mistaken. You are a master carpenter and a very funny guy!!! Thank you for the lessons and stupid smile I always have when I’m watching your videos 😂😂😂
Have you tried a Mirka sander? I used to use the festool but switched to a Mirka... I found it much much more enjoyable to sand with. Also, I use a mesh style sand paper, way better dust extraction and I've never had a swrill mark left over after.
That's interesting. I bought a Mirka Deros to compliment my Rotex 150 and after getting to use a ETS 125 I sold my Mirka. To be honest, it was mostly due to Mirka's customer service being practically impossible to reach/deal with.
Love your stuff but just to clarify, the full cure time with accelerator is 5-7 days (dry after 24h) and without accelerator is about a month (dry after a couple days). Also with heavy pigments you must use the accelerator.
Great video. I look forward to trying Rubio Monocoat on my next indoor project. What do you use for outdoor wood pieces (chairs, barbeque tables, etc.)?
Another fantastic video! Thank you for what you doing. Question about the Rubio finish: Does the underside of the wood also need a coat so that wood doesn't warp in the future???
I'm no expert, but if i had to guess, knowing that it's mounted into a bench with walls on the sides, probably means the potential for warping down the road is pretty minimal. I'd also guess that it depends on the porosity of the wood you're using, but idk
What color Rubio is this? I made a shelf from Poplar and used oxalic acid to remove green but now it's very orange, found your video while researching finishing options. Thanks!
Not knocking anyone’s work style - you are obviously a lot more prolific and successful than me - but I don’t sand pieces. After planing smooth and flat, I just set my plane to take a feathery stroke off on the final pass and the piece is like glass, no dust, and wide open pores that soak up my waxes and buff like patent leather. I understand some people who do this professionally (unlike me) just don’t have the time to hand plane every board before assembly with deadlines etc., but in principle, I disagree with the notion that sanding is some necessary evil. I’d bet the time isn’t actually all that different between working through sandpaper grits and hand planing. Plus my risk of COPD is way less without all of that dust in the air.
You really did use way too much Rubio, I was surprised and happy that a little goes so very far. You should have also noted that it does smell bad until fully dry (I waited 7 days before installing on my first project). Good job.
Sanding to 220 I get, that's usually where I stop. My problem is with going up to 220, then going back over the piece with 150 grit after? You're essentially undoing the 220 sanding? Why not just hand sand with 220 grit and call it a day?
Honest question here: why go to 220? Any reason not to go from 150 with a DA to 150 by hand? Also, any problem with getting a circular dip around the epoxy, since wood is softer than the epoxy? Edit: btw just finished the video. Wow, beautiful final product 👍
I've used mineral spirits to clean but it takes so long to dry. Someone recommended denatured alcohol instead. It dries really really fast and seems to work just as well, as far as I can tell anyway. Thoughts?
I screwed it up, When I sanded areas that I filled, the wood around the epoxy or glued spots was destroyed faster, so my wood is wavy, there are hills where those spots are and valleys where the softer areas of wood are!
Do you have to finish the underside of the bench top? Wondering if there have been issues with warping after applying finish to only one side with Rubio.
Mmmm tips and tricks on a Sunday, my favourite! Honestly have never committed to going backwards in grits when sanding, but loving hard wax oils at the moment, always sand to max before applying. I'm interested to trying roughing it up a bit to see if there's any difference! 👍
@@richpeggyfranks490 Thanks for the tip, I imagine it aids bringing a bit of wood texture back to the wood too. But I guess it can depend on the desired finish. A polished mirror finish will require more coats and sanding between, but on long grain, with a more satin finish its nice to keep some of that wood texture
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Saw a weird ad with your video. Not sure if you knew. th-cam.com/video/YXGImnK9eFI/w-d-xo.html
Are you ever going to release the linseed oil test footage unedited?
I've worked in 5+ houses where Rubio Monocoat was used on the wood floors in the last eight years or so. I've seen thousands of square feet of it applied. It's tough, I return to properties for work and am always impressed with it's the durability over time. It touches up like a dream, you can actually just do spots and not have it flash like mad. Almost all my daily work is finishing, so I've always been about the 'tried and true'. Rubio has impressed me and has attained that status in my book. I was surprised to see so many woodworkers on YT using it, not sure why. Guess I thought it was a floor thing. My only complaint is sometimes open grain woods don't always fill enough to keep stuff from getting in the vessel elements and having to be sanded out. Waah.
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
I figured out what I love about this channel besides the obvious fun stuff like the intro. It’s not pretentious. Some wood workers are great for tutorial but some are so pretentious too serious. Not to mention this is the only channel with THE FORMAN who we need to see more of.
Don’t mess with the Forman! He’s the real talent, I am just sure of it. 😉 Agreed, wonderful channel, for lots of reasons.
Ok, but why make the epoxy black? I kept waiting for the step where it blends in.
LOVE the floor sander buffing pad idea, man. For rags, I use old bed sheets from a charity shop. They usually have a hard time getting rid of them. On my last rags mission, they filled up a garbage bag with random sheets and through in a little Spiderman toy for my boy and charged me $5. Hack up the sheets and you’ve got rags for years.
Sanding is a wonderful time to catch up on podcasts and deep thoughts.
Having messed up a few projects with bad finish, this has been really helpful. Thank you.
Thanks for this video. Finish always seems like the most intimidating part of the whole project because if you get it wrong it can be so much work to fix it.
glue up for me
I just finished my first woodworking project. I used Rubio and several other tips from Jason's videos. Thank you for the content and help!
For floors where we want to shine up the Rubio, we double coat it and let the second coat dry for an hour or so, then come back with a white buffer pad and hit the whole thing with that. Polishes it up and you don’t lose the ability to touch up or recoat later.
Do you mean you let the "pool" of finish set for an hour then wiped, then buffed - or you put on the second coat, wiped up the excess THEN waited an hour to buff?
For small voids like this I have switched to using the black glue sticks that is used for Paintless Dent Repair (PDR). It takes a good glue gun, but it works like a charm. It does not shrink and is ready to sand in the amount of time it takes for the glue to cool.
Tuck Tape... used for sealing rigid foam board and sheathing, usually for wall insulation installs. Think of it as the multi-purpose duct tape version of packing tape. The stuff is great and sticks to everything, but can be peeled off with some effort. It is specifically recommended for epoxy applications as well (mold release). I always have a couple rolls on hand.
Just don't put it on glass
@@ben68442 You know that warning means someone is gonna try it.
@@ben68442 - does it stick too well to glass?
It’s originally for taping up seams on vapour barrier when insulating. It’s also brilliant for absolutely ruining your brother’s day by sticking it to the back of his head…
to answer your question as to what that tape is initially meant for, it's used to tape vapor barrier together so there isn't an open seam behind your drywall or siding. It's also used to tape the vapor barrier to your electrical boxes. this all just make sure you have a nice seal.
I discovered Monocoat this Spring and I LOVE it. Inspires me to do more projects because I really do suck at other types of finishes. This stuff is sooooo easy and looks fantastic.
I love the look of white oak and am excited to work with it for the first time in my current project. I expected to go with Cotton White but found that Mist does the best at retaining the natural look of the white oak!
I used Rubio for the first time about 2 years ago and instantly fell in love with the ease of application. I used a 275ml can plus the 75ml can of the 2C. 350ml of product covered a piece that was 72" x 36" x 24". I used every drop I had and it came out amazing. I would highly recommend Rubio for any project 👍
its expensive as shit for so low coverage. regardless of how well it performs.
@@skarpskyttarwhat does low coverage mean?
Rubio tip - How to determine how much to mix up ? No one seems to mention this in videos and it’s critical to not wasting it due to cost (as you did mention). I’ve seen amounts needed such as 1floz (~30mL) per ~6.5sqft while others say to use 3.25-3.50mL/sqft. That’s total volumes for the 3:1 mixture.
So? People figure it out
Rubio is my go-to stain. I refuse to use anything else. The color options, combinable stains to create custom color finishes, and durability of the product checks all my boxes. So easy to use and quick finishing. I love their latest upgrade to the maintenance oil- sheen plus. Adds a beautiful satin sheen that looks flawless.
For the grits, it's easy to remember by not going past 150% of the previous.
80 to max 120
120 to max 180
180 to max 270
Etc...
newb here. why do you have to sand in such increments? why not just start at 180 or 220?
@@coppulor6500 you can start wherever you like, it just depends on how much material you want to remove. You wont remove a lot with higher grits.. they are too smooth. So it may take very long and cost a lot in sandpaper to remove a lot of material.
As for the "why", it's because following this rule will ensure that you're able to remove the previous grit's scratches. Just go in opposite directions until the previous grit's scratches are gone. Then you keep moving up to desired grit for smoothness.
@@coppulor6500 higher grit eats more material, and thus its helpful at removing saw marks, small scratches, removing dust, ash and whatnot that could be trapped inside the pores of the woods. tone down or remove fungal marks if you are working wilder wood, stains of paint, oil or glue that could have penetrated the fibers. in short, low grit homogenizes wood.
@@archael18 thank you!
@@vittocrazi thank you 👍
Thanks for pointing out that all excess needs to be removed thoroughly after some time. This is where I messed up in the past and ended up with a unusable, sticky surface. In my (limited) experience this step is also necessary with other oil/wax surface finishes.
Another new convert to Rubio here. We just finished some walnut floating shelves with it today. Bought an extra because we didn't think the tiny little can could handle 100 bdft. Took less than two hours, the finish looks so clean and professional, unbelievably easy and fast. And that was in a 50° garage. AND, we didn't even use one 350ml can combo, still have about 1/5th left. When they say a little bit goes a loooooooong way, they aren't kidding.
Sorry I sound like a shill here, but it really is that good, just blown away how much better it is than the poly we've been using at basically every concievable angle. Not going to be spending a day+ putting on half a dozen coats of stinking, running, lapping, dust-spotting poly that takes forever especially in cold weather. $60 for the tiny can may seem ludicrous if you're used to 4x the amount for 4x less price of regular varnish, but I'll say the quality and speed of the finish is actually a much better value than fighting multiple coats to make poly look good. Thanks Bourbon Moth for the heads up.
That ends my commercial, I guess. Hemmed and hawwed over trying it because it seemed too good to be true- nope, wish I tried this stuff years ago. One of those rare products where it's not just marketing BS, it is everything they say.
Another helpful tip for you, you can use two strips of painters tape to pour from paint cans instead of having to use a syringe and having to clean it or toss it afterwards. On TH-cam there is a 1min16sec video entitled "How to Pour Paint Without Making a Mess - Today's Homeowner with Danny Lipford" that shows the technique.
Excellent. Millions of people are thinking "That's so simple, why didn't I think of that?"
That's a great tip; thank you for that!!
Great video and entertaining as always, thanks! I agree about the glossy finish… I don’t mind it but I kinda prefer a more matte finish (never loved the look of polyurethane that a lot of people go with)
PS: Sorry to hear about your dad… lost my dad a few years ago in my 20’s and it sucks! Prayers for you and your family!
Good timing watching this, about to start finish work on my new office desk.
Thank you. First ever demo of the Rubio finish start to finish. This was very helpful. I’m ready to make the quantum leap from oil based poly crap to a more professional looking finish 🤞🏼
Not sure why sanding is the most hated part. It's my favorite. I'll sand pieces to 400 or 800 grit so they are glossy before applying a finish. Sanding is great and worth the time if you are patient.
My wife usually helps me finish my wood. I'll create a video if there's enough interest
Same here. Makes me think of the good old days when I had to hire outside help to finish my wood, or worse, finish my own wood.
😂
😂
😱❗️👀👀👀
@@ImNotSpartacus Haven't you heard ? His wife is in charge of the chucking! 😅🙈
You sir are a fool, in the traditional sense, and it makes the whole channel good fun. I look forward to every video. :)
I thought Rubio was going to be another type of stain but the finish is awesome. I’m a believer
Great advice on the Rubio Monocoat! We built a walnut and black iron console table this weekend and the finish was fast and looks amazing!
This video came out with perfect timing. I am finishing up a pair of benchtop tool boxes for my sons that I built out of red oak. This ought to suit the job perfectly. Thanks Bourbon!
I grew up on the Oregon Coast and spent quite a bit of time in the part of the Willamette Valley near your place, Go Beaves, one of the things I really miss now that I'm living in Montana are the Rhododendrons, love the ones outside your window near the end of the video. Love your content and delivery...
many people don't know how to sand! thank you!
i'm a perfectionist and hate the stupid swirl marks/pig tails left by skipping grits. I pretty much always go 80,120,180,220,400(depending on the finish).
Also, try odies oil :)
What color finish did you use here? Great work by the way!
Good question. I'm trying to read the can on the video but too blurry
Just got my Spec Ops tools, Hammer, Tape, Utility knife, center punches, and chisel set, they are some great tools, love them.
Thanks for turning me on to them.
I plan on ordering some more.
Just used Rubio for the first time. I usually use linseed oil and wax for my projects. But this is several steps above. I am very pleased with the product. Thanks for the recommendation!
I've used it on a few projects. It works great! I might use it when I refinish my maple floors.
I’m definitely going to follow your lead on this one. I’ve never stained anything but I need to learn because eventually I want to build furniture after I’m done with my house. I took an old rocking chair and started sanding it down and though I never really cared for that stain you use because I thought it was too late, I see that it would work perfectly on this chair. I hate that it’s so expensive but I guess you get what you pay for right. Thanks for the video. Can’t wait to try it.
Rubio always turns out well. Great video on how to mix and apply. Thanks!
Some return knowledge for you, a tool tip, for $15 try out the new 3M Xtract Cubitron II Net Discs. 3M part number 88516 is their 6 inch 12 piece multi-pack that includes two each of 80/120/180/220/240/320 grits. You'll love them so much you will throw out those boxes of Festool sand paper and not even feel bad for doing it, the new 3M product is just that good.
I have some and love the stuff.
Tuck tape is commonly used for taping the seams in vapour barrier.
House wrapping was what it was designed for
Tuck tape. I thought that was used by some men in the entertainment industry.
@@7thplanet121 I believe you are thinking of Gaffers tape
@@salvatoreclaps4374 - I think he is thinking of medical tape used by cross dressers 😂
Pfft, everyone knows it’s for fixing a smashed tail light for $3
I really appreciate you doing this video. I've had Rubio in my cart 4 times and haven't purchased it because I didn't understand how to mix it and apply it. The price also threw me off, but seeing how much one can will do it seems in parity with other finishes on a per application basis. Thanks!
I just tried Rubio for the first time a couple months ago and loved it. I do recommend to take a project to the next level. It feels very good to the hand, smooth but still like wood. Just make sure you do s good job of the wipe off, I missed an area and it felt sticky days latter. Had to sand it off and reapply
Thixo is a great choice for those fills! Nicely done!
Great Video! I would suggest that the rags are submerged in water after the application as we learned the hard way when left out by the trash in this method and one rags caught fire and tooks the can with it
First time viewer here. He’s funny AF! No idea what he’s talking about but I’m coming back for the laughs 🤘
I love sanding, it’s like doing dishes but actually relaxing and not as strenuous for me. Lol. It’s funny how many wood workers hate sanding.
Great info. Thanks for posting this. Much easier than Osmo.
I use polyester with hardener..by Superior. I then use a color from my dry pigment selection. Works great!
Love this video!
Maybe another great video would be your process of buying wood, for those of us who are starting 👀
You can get the white scotchbrite pads at lowe's by the sandpaper FYI. They have household uses as well. I usually cut them into 1/3ds
I am new to the Rubio monocote. I do like it better than Osmo. The thing with the hardener or no hardener, with you can handle it in 24 hours, but full cure is about a week. Without the hardener, you can handle it in a day or two, but full cure takes about a month. I think they have a new 'top cote' which is ceramic and comes from the auto industry. Have yet to try that one.
I spoke with a Rep from Rubio Mono. And he says the Accelerator actually prolongs the finish to lay longer. It does not just speed up the cure time.
😂love your videos … so funny and educational at the same time … keep ‘em coming !!!!😅
dis video was so fun to watch. i just finished a project and am looking to get into more. u definitely just gained a subscriber
I bet a tack cloth would work really good to get all the dust. We would use those for final step before painting cars
I laughed hard at "great way to use epoxy and not make something ugly" statement, so true 😊
Scribbling a pattern over the board with a pencil makes sure you don't go too fast and makes it easy to stay on track if you start to drift off with whatever you might be listening to.
Cleaning between sanding is a great idea. Also the cleaner is similar to mineral spirits, but definitely use a cleaner, it makes a big difference. And let's you see if you've missed anything with sanding.
Don't skimp on the hardner...cure time with hardener was 7 days to full cure, maybe it's gotten faster. But it's not linear, at 2 or 3 days it's almost 75% or more and can be easily handled. Without the hardener is literally weeks according to Rubio.
use the syringes for sure, it's an amazing method. Allows you to mix only what you need and then mix a tiny bit more if needed.
WOW, THANK YOU CAPTAIN OBVIOUS
I am usually a Minwax Tongue Oil guy. I like this finnish!
Thanks for (as always) v helpful video. I’ve a question that may seem silly but I don’t recall seeing anyone address. How do you tell when to move on to the next grit level of sandpaper? Touch, feel, sight, sound, time? Cheers,
Thank you for your insight and bringing a grin to my face 😅.
Your sense of humor got you a sub. Loved the dancing 😂
At first I thought you are a little cringy … but I was very mistaken. You are a master carpenter and a very funny guy!!!
Thank you for the lessons and stupid smile I always have when I’m watching your videos 😂😂😂
Thanks for the finishing video. It was helpful.
Have you tried a Mirka sander? I used to use the festool but switched to a Mirka... I found it much much more enjoyable to sand with. Also, I use a mesh style sand paper, way better dust extraction and I've never had a swrill mark left over after.
That's interesting. I bought a Mirka Deros to compliment my Rotex 150 and after getting to use a ETS 125 I sold my Mirka. To be honest, it was mostly due to Mirka's customer service being practically impossible to reach/deal with.
Love your stuff but just to clarify, the full cure time with accelerator is 5-7 days (dry after 24h) and without accelerator is about a month (dry after a couple days). Also with heavy pigments you must use the accelerator.
And yet you know nothing
@@daveklein2826 I know nothing about what?
Thx, just watched back another video earlier today to check what finish you normally use :P
Great video. I look forward to trying Rubio Monocoat on my next indoor project. What do you use for outdoor wood pieces (chairs, barbeque tables, etc.)?
I’d love to know the answer to this as well.
What finish would you use for a table top, something that would get the occasional condensation and dribbles from glasses and beverages?
+1
RUBIO
Oil Plus 2C is wear, water and heat resistant. :)
I found Fornby's Tung Oil Finish did excellent on my oak living room set. I just wiped it on the oak. I discovered that Fornby's is really a varnish.
Another fantastic video! Thank you for what you doing. Question about the Rubio finish: Does the underside of the wood also need a coat so that wood doesn't warp in the future???
I'm no expert, but if i had to guess, knowing that it's mounted into a bench with walls on the sides, probably means the potential for warping down the road is pretty minimal. I'd also guess that it depends on the porosity of the wood you're using, but idk
Nice work, thanks for the breakdown. How did you finish the face frame and drawer fronts of the bench? Thanks!!
I used Rubio on my sailboat. Totalboat epoxy is king. The smell goes away after awhile. But the finish lasts.
Almost to a million subscribers!! Let's GOOOOOOO
What color Rubio is this? I made a shelf from Poplar and used oxalic acid to remove green but now it's very orange, found your video while researching finishing options.
Thanks!
Not knocking anyone’s work style - you are obviously a lot more prolific and successful than me - but I don’t sand pieces. After planing smooth and flat, I just set my plane to take a feathery stroke off on the final pass and the piece is like glass, no dust, and wide open pores that soak up my waxes and buff like patent leather. I understand some people who do this professionally (unlike me) just don’t have the time to hand plane every board before assembly with deadlines etc., but in principle, I disagree with the notion that sanding is some necessary evil. I’d bet the time isn’t actually all that different between working through sandpaper grits and hand planing. Plus my risk of COPD is way less without all of that dust in the air.
You outdid yourself with this lesson!
You really did use way too much Rubio, I was surprised and happy that a little goes so very far. You should have also noted that it does smell bad until fully dry (I waited 7 days before installing on my first project). Good job.
Perfect timing, I’m looking for a finish for ambrosia maple that won’t yellow.
I watched this to the finish!
@2:36: Tuck tape is for sealing vapor barrier, such as in walls and ceilings.
I love the content, it's makin g me think about different finishes
Alright another enjoyable video!!!!! I always look forward to your video
If I wanted to build an outdoor table, what kind of wood and what kind of waterproof or weather resistant sealer or stain is better?
Very informative. Thanks mouth.
Sanding to 220 I get, that's usually where I stop. My problem is with going up to 220, then going back over the piece with 150 grit after? You're essentially undoing the 220 sanding? Why not just hand sand with 220 grit and call it a day?
Awesome video with great explanation.
Ah yes, a video on how to finish it to completion, needed advice in this world.
Great video. Very thorough. Thank you.
Honest question here: why go to 220? Any reason not to go from 150 with a DA to 150 by hand?
Also, any problem with getting a circular dip around the epoxy, since wood is softer than the epoxy?
Edit: btw just finished the video. Wow, beautiful final product 👍
I've used mineral spirits to clean but it takes so long to dry. Someone recommended denatured alcohol instead. It dries really really fast and seems to work just as well, as far as I can tell anyway. Thoughts?
Yes, that’s what i use. It’s also good when you’re doing epoxy after sanding, etc
Lacquer thinner works well and drys fast. It's just to get the fine dust off.
For oily tropical woods, acetone is best. But use in a VERY well ventilated space, if you like your brain cells.
I screwed it up, When I sanded areas that I filled, the wood around the epoxy or glued spots was destroyed faster, so my wood is wavy, there are hills where those spots are and valleys where the softer areas of wood are!
Do you have to finish the underside of the bench top? Wondering if there have been issues with warping after applying finish to only one side with Rubio.
Great video, finishing is a challenge for me. ;) I’ll try the Rubio…
Any reason why you go 150 instead of 180? Or just do 120 then 220 and call it a day? Have you experimented to see if there is a noticeable difference?
Mmmm tips and tricks on a Sunday, my favourite!
Honestly have never committed to going backwards in grits when sanding, but loving hard wax oils at the moment, always sand to max before applying. I'm interested to trying roughing it up a bit to see if there's any difference! 👍
It's a great technique. But, always handsand in the direction of the grain. It helps disguise any residual swirl marks.
@@richpeggyfranks490 Thanks for the tip, I imagine it aids bringing a bit of wood texture back to the wood too. But I guess it can depend on the desired finish. A polished mirror finish will require more coats and sanding between, but on long grain, with a more satin finish its nice to keep some of that wood texture
Backing off on grit is supposed to leave bigger scratches that will help the finish penetrate deeper and adhere better.
I typically squeegee prior to wiping
tuck tape is for construction work. Housewrap, rigid insulation etc that sort of thing.
I swear, all the wood working TH-camrs use Rubio at this point.
Wasn't there a video that Bourbon Moth did where He used Pre-Stain or talked about using Pre-Stain?