Yes I know it s very difficult. The price of a New one is round about 90-120 Euro. If the soldering repair doesen't work,change the completly actuator 😉
@@Treadmill-Repairs which engine? At my 320cdti is it plug and play. 220cdti you need the star-software for the under and over zeropoint. I hope you understand my german-english😁
@@Treadmill-RepairsOne way to make it last longer is to scrub the connection point on the pcb until you see copper. The regular solder will attach better on copper. But scrubbing it off is a little tricky and should be done very carefully. The other way is to find the appropriate solder (silver solder i believe) that works on those silver-like tinted connection points.
Hello, even if the repair seems easy, the connecting wires and their pads are made of aluminum, normally they cannot be welded, except by gluing, aluminum has been chosen to better resist the heat of the turbo. Bonjour , même si la réparation semble facile , les fils de liaison et leurs pastilles sont en aluminium , normalement on ne peut pas les souder , sauf en faisant du collage , il on choisi l'aluminium pour mieux résister à la chaleur du turbo.
Hello. Yes the repair itself is pretty easy, but the solder joint is pretty tricky. But with a lot of solder it has already lasted 20,000 kilometers with me. Otherwise simply change the adjuster completely. Costs about 90 euros.
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I soldered mine just like that and it lasted a few days! The solder doesn't seem to take very well to those contacts.
Yes I know it s very difficult. The price of a New one is round about 90-120 Euro. If the soldering repair doesen't work,change the completly actuator 😉
@@schadenfreunde2500 Are they plug and go or do they need programming?
@@Treadmill-Repairs which engine? At my 320cdti is it plug and play. 220cdti you need the star-software for the under and over zeropoint. I hope you understand my german-english😁
@@schadenfreunde2500 Thank you for your help. Mine is the 320cdi 4-Matic 165KW.
@@Treadmill-RepairsOne way to make it last longer is to scrub the connection point on the pcb until you see copper. The regular solder will attach better on copper. But scrubbing it off is a little tricky and should be done very carefully. The other way is to find the appropriate solder (silver solder i believe) that works on those silver-like tinted connection points.
Hello, even if the repair seems easy, the connecting wires and their pads are made of aluminum, normally they cannot be welded, except by gluing, aluminum has been chosen to better resist the heat of the turbo.
Bonjour , même si la réparation semble facile , les fils de liaison et leurs pastilles sont en aluminium , normalement on ne peut pas les souder , sauf en faisant du collage , il on choisi l'aluminium pour mieux résister à la chaleur du turbo.
Hello. Yes the repair itself is pretty easy, but the solder joint is pretty tricky. But with a lot of solder it has already lasted 20,000 kilometers with me. Otherwise simply change the adjuster completely. Costs about 90 euros.
question is that the heat from turbo will meld the solder or not
Hey. My experience - the silder will not meld. Turbochager is still running 14.000km
@@schadenfreunde2500 thank you for your answer, i faced the same issue, when i tried normally solder i just find out that was aluminium coated
@@flybywirekennelWhat solder did you use after?
does it lose calibration if you move shaft when dissasamble or it will selfcenter when powered @@schadenfreunde2500