This is the full, in depth explanation and demonstration I needed, thank you. It covered a lot of parts missed by other videos on the same issue. I look forward to more of your content.
@@wolftech4705 at the moment I’m dealing with the same issue you’ve just covered. I’ll certainly come back here for anything else that crops up with my CLS.
Thanks for sharing video. Very informative especially about china product available on eBay not likely to work. Seems best thing to do is get the wires soldered. I would suggest probably ask a local computer repair shop to solder them up properly instead that way you may not have to keep soldering every few months. Great video many thanks.
Hi, thank you for an informative video. My ML350 CDi starts and then dies. Have you ever come across this problem? It runs for 1-3 seconds and then dies. It has new low and high pressure pumps, new fuel rail pressure sensor, new fuel rail pressure regulating valve, new fuel filter, 6 new injectors, new fuel pump relay, new cam shaft sensor, turbo refurbished. Because of the struggling I now have to replace the battery. Day 1 after coming from workshop it starts easily, day two it starts and runs but shudders a bit and then runs perfectly. The next day it starts for 1 second and dies. So basically every morning on first start. Then its dead.
Great video! Thank you for sharing, this is very useful information. Quick question. Are you able to move the actuator arm by hand? My actuator arm seems to be seized or stuck, it cannot be moved by hand. When plugged in, the wastegate is open all the time causing no boost and limp mode. My only engine code is for "low boost", there are no codes for the actuator unit. Thank you very much!
The answer is no you cannot move the actuator arm with your hands. Reason is gears and sort of gearbox system inside between the motor and arm. Only way to check it as far as i know is with ignition like i did on my video (on/off) or if its completely dead then by diagnostic fault code.
this would have been a lot easier to follow if you held the camera in the other orientation, it's very distracting to try and focus on the middle of the screen with such a small area of view, when the outer edges of the screen are moving as well. also a closeup of the actual wire would have been handy to show what to look for.
Ive been through this twice now also the oil cooler leak in my cls 350. Mercedes engineers made some stupid decisions designing this car with no fix till about 10 years later!. Atleast i am a expert on this om642 engine after owning 2.
Why you do that with the good video? Why was this good focused video was disabled like that?! No matter what, thank you for the help! Please, show the stuff as close as you can...
Hello, maybe you could help me, I have a W211 E320 CDI 150kw and we measured only about 130kw, I have no check engine light, no errors, no smoking or anything else, but somewhere the car is losing power, any ideas? thanks
@@Ender1337 to identify power loss issues i would go through few steps, starting with easiest one: 1- live data on turbo boost; 2- vacuum line leak or blockage; 3- condition of fuel injectors. Using good diagnostic tool, check is your turbo boost pressure high enough under hard acceleration - if turbo boost pressure is too low: 1- need to identify is there any crack/split in one of the hoses; 2- or turba actuator (wastegate) is damaged; 3- or vacuum lines are leaking or blocked with dust/dirt. Fuel injector checks i would leave as last step since thats most complicated comparing with above mentioned checks Let me know if you need help with any of these steps
@@wolftech4705 So this needs to be test on the road right? Or can you check the turbo pressure while in a garage? And any numbers we should be moving around? How do we know if the pressure is high enough? Thanks so far for the tips, should have it solved in a week or so, will let you know for sure.
@@Ender1337 yes, thats correct - turbo pressure can be tested only during test drive. Normal pressure on mercs must be 2-2.2 bars. Can make short video about this vacuum line can be tested using handheld vacuum pump (about £10-15 on ebay) fuel injector tests - easiest (but not 100% accurate) is leak test - such kit also cost less than £20 on ebay. Im using manual pressure pump and electronic pulse adapter to check how good injectors are holding pressure and spray pattern
I've got my actuator soldered (broken wire), but still it doesn't work. I have no way to clear the codes atm, will it start working when they are cleared? Or should it work immediately no matter the codes ? thanks
It should work straight away even if fault codes have not been cleared. In your case i would say your actuator has not been fixed yet - check for another damage or double check the one soldered - its not easy job for first time
@@wolftech4705 Thanks for the fast reply. I'll take it off again, and bring it to the electrician guy to double-check. At least I know that it should work right away when fixed. Kinda drives me nuts, first the Y air intake pipe (on turbo) broke, after the fix the actuator failed 10-15 day's later... No idea if it has to do with the air intake pipe, or the actuator broke on its own. Btw. the turbo vanes are not blocked, the arm moves freely when disconnected from the actuator.
@@wolftech4705 update. Gave a visit to the el.guy. He disconected the actuator for a check, and told me its find. After he connected it again and "magic" happend, it worked like a charm. Not sure what went wrong when I connected it(doubt there is a wrong way to do it). But bow it works better than ever. Has full power... 🙋🏻♂️
hi my friend my turbo actuator was broken. i bought a new one and build it in. now the problem ist that my turbo actuator moves really weird. it pops up when i press on the gas. when i let off the gas it pops down again and my turbo does the sütütütü sound. please help
Im afraid there is no help to your issue at the moment. As i mentioned in video you can not directly replace your turbo actuator with another one because it needs to coded to car. Thats why i repaired my one
@@ossi8221 if you watched my video then i did mention this issue regarding mercedes dealers. If these units would learn themself then noone wouldnt have such trouble with them
@@marti4580 yes. It was the turbo geometry that was Stuck. I bought an original refurbished turbo from the Internet. IT came perfect. I swaped the turbo and Now the car works perfectly
@@wolftech4705 I have changed it today, doesn't need to calibrate. I got a problem p2359 low boost. Fixt intake hose to turbo, new turbo, new ic hose check for leaking. Everything is ok, I have lack of boost en cant find gen problem, do you know what i am missing?
@@MrFietslicht i have never seen option to calibrate these - thats why everyone is struggling with these turbo actuators. I have tried to replace with some another units but no luck to get these to work - that is why i had to repair my old unit. Regarding your lack of boost pressure - your engine must go into "limp mode" - as soon as it goes in limp mode there must be new fault codes. So the best you can do is to clear all old codes - restart car - take it for short test run - scan for new codes and share them
@@wolftech4705 the code is p2359 low boost. Everytime I drive a little the code comes back. I changed almost everything. But code stil comes back. Today im gonna try to clean egr. Maby that helps
This is the full, in depth explanation and demonstration I needed, thank you. It covered a lot of parts missed by other videos on the same issue. I look forward to more of your content.
Thanks for feedback. It`s my first video ever. Let me know if you looking to find something specific regarding these cars and engines. Regards
@@wolftech4705 at the moment I’m dealing with the same issue you’ve just covered. I’ll certainly come back here for anything else that crops up with my CLS.
@@escatel6889 if that could help i can make quick video about how i did all that repair on actual actuator
Thanks for sharing video. Very informative especially about china product available on eBay not likely to work. Seems best thing to do is get the wires soldered. I would suggest probably ask a local computer repair shop to solder them up properly instead that way you may not have to keep soldering every few months. Great video many thanks.
Hi, thank you for an informative video. My ML350 CDi starts and then dies. Have you ever come across this problem? It runs for 1-3 seconds and then dies. It has new low and high pressure pumps, new fuel rail pressure sensor, new fuel rail pressure regulating valve, new fuel filter, 6 new injectors, new fuel pump relay, new cam shaft sensor, turbo refurbished. Because of the struggling I now have to replace the battery. Day 1 after coming from workshop it starts easily, day two it starts and runs but shudders a bit and then runs perfectly. The next day it starts for 1 second and dies. So basically every morning on first start. Then its dead.
Gran video y muy buen detalle de que el actuador esta vinculado a la ecu
..grande
Thanks for the feedback. I hope it is usefull
great video thank you!
Great video! Thank you for sharing, this is very useful information. Quick question. Are you able to move the actuator arm by hand? My actuator arm seems to be seized or stuck, it cannot be moved by hand. When plugged in, the wastegate is open all the time causing no boost and limp mode. My only engine code is for "low boost", there are no codes for the actuator unit. Thank you very much!
The answer is no you cannot move the actuator arm with your hands. Reason is gears and sort of gearbox system inside between the motor and arm. Only way to check it as far as i know is with ignition like i did on my video (on/off) or if its completely dead then by diagnostic fault code.
My car loose power when im driving on higher attitude,and i need to restar car and go further, is it also actuator or something else
this would have been a lot easier to follow if you held the camera in the other orientation, it's very distracting to try and focus on the middle of the screen with such a small area of view, when the outer edges of the screen are moving as well. also a closeup of the actual wire would have been handy to show what to look for.
Im not pro in video shooting - just tried to help with some info i have. I hope it did work for you
Ive been through this twice now also the oil cooler leak in my cls 350. Mercedes engineers made some stupid decisions designing this car with no fix till about 10 years later!. Atleast i am a expert on this om642 engine after owning 2.
How did you sorted out your turbo actuator?
Can you help pinpoint cause of my excessive white smoke?
Why you do that with the good video? Why was this good focused video was disabled like that?!
No matter what, thank you for the help!
Please, show the stuff as close as you can...
Not sure what do you mean saying "disabled video"?
Where did you buy the part pleass
💪🏿
so i know when i start up the car and the actuator is not moving a few times that the actuator is broken?
nice _video
Thanks
Hello, maybe you could help me, I have a W211 E320 CDI 150kw and we measured only about 130kw, I have no check engine light, no errors, no smoking or anything else, but somewhere the car is losing power, any ideas? thanks
Could you clarify which year model is your merc?
@@wolftech4705 its 2004 pre-facelift
@@Ender1337 to identify power loss issues i would go through few steps, starting with easiest one:
1- live data on turbo boost;
2- vacuum line leak or blockage;
3- condition of fuel injectors.
Using good diagnostic tool, check is your turbo boost pressure high enough under hard acceleration - if turbo boost pressure is too low:
1- need to identify is there any crack/split in one of the hoses;
2- or turba actuator (wastegate) is damaged;
3- or vacuum lines are leaking or blocked with dust/dirt.
Fuel injector checks i would leave as last step since thats most complicated comparing with above mentioned checks
Let me know if you need help with any of these steps
@@wolftech4705 So this needs to be test on the road right? Or can you check the turbo pressure while in a garage?
And any numbers we should be moving around? How do we know if the pressure is high enough?
Thanks so far for the tips, should have it solved in a week or so, will let you know for sure.
@@Ender1337 yes, thats correct - turbo pressure can be tested only during test drive. Normal pressure on mercs must be 2-2.2 bars.
Can make short video about this
vacuum line can be tested using handheld vacuum pump (about £10-15 on ebay)
fuel injector tests - easiest (but not 100% accurate) is leak test - such kit also cost less than £20 on ebay. Im using manual pressure pump and electronic pulse adapter to check how good injectors are holding pressure and spray pattern
I've got my actuator soldered (broken wire), but still it doesn't work.
I have no way to clear the codes atm, will it start working when they are cleared? Or should it work immediately no matter the codes ? thanks
It should work straight away even if fault codes have not been cleared. In your case i would say your actuator has not been fixed yet - check for another damage or double check the one soldered - its not easy job for first time
@@wolftech4705 Thanks for the fast reply.
I'll take it off again, and bring it to the electrician guy to double-check.
At least I know that it should work right away when fixed.
Kinda drives me nuts, first the Y air intake pipe (on turbo) broke, after the fix the actuator failed 10-15 day's later... No idea if it has to do with the air intake pipe, or the actuator broke on its own.
Btw. the turbo vanes are not blocked, the arm moves freely when disconnected from the actuator.
@@Cetax good luck. Let us know its going for you
@@wolftech4705 update.
Gave a visit to the el.guy.
He disconected the actuator for a check, and told me its find.
After he connected it again and "magic" happend, it worked like a charm.
Not sure what went wrong when I connected it(doubt there is a wrong way to do it).
But bow it works better than ever. Has full power... 🙋🏻♂️
@@Cetax good to hear - enjoy your ride
hi my friend my turbo actuator was broken. i bought a new one and build it in. now the problem ist that my turbo actuator moves really weird. it pops up when i press on the gas. when i let off the gas it pops down again and my turbo does the sütütütü sound. please help
Im afraid there is no help to your issue at the moment. As i mentioned in video you can not directly replace your turbo actuator with another one because it needs to coded to car. Thats why i repaired my one
@@wolftech4705 oh ok thats really bad. I asked mercedes they said the turbo actuator learns itself. Thats why i changed mine
@@ossi8221 if you watched my video then i did mention this issue regarding mercedes dealers. If these units would learn themself then noone wouldnt have such trouble with them
Hi have you fixed the problem? thanks
@@marti4580 yes. It was the turbo geometry that was Stuck. I bought an original refurbished turbo from the Internet. IT came perfect. I swaped the turbo and Now the car works perfectly
I can't understand a word you are regurgitating.
Omg 642 porblem rolanti
Sorry - no idea what you are saying
Does the actuator not be calibrated?
Not as far as i know. But who knows...
@@wolftech4705 I have changed it today, doesn't need to calibrate. I got a problem p2359 low boost. Fixt intake hose to turbo, new turbo, new ic hose check for leaking. Everything is ok, I have lack of boost en cant find gen problem, do you know what i am missing?
@@MrFietslicht i have never seen option to calibrate these - thats why everyone is struggling with these turbo actuators. I have tried to replace with some another units but no luck to get these to work - that is why i had to repair my old unit.
Regarding your lack of boost pressure - your engine must go into "limp mode" - as soon as it goes in limp mode there must be new fault codes. So the best you can do is to clear all old codes - restart car - take it for short test run - scan for new codes and share them
@@wolftech4705 the code is p2359 low boost. Everytime I drive a little the code comes back. I changed almost everything. But code stil comes back. Today im gonna try to clean egr. Maby that helps
@@MrFietslicht Did you checked your old turbo actuator for internal damage like in my video??