Hey guys I'm a kind of an old fashion guy.... But back on the day I had different runs with different welding procedures and types of welding and what I know is that the 7024 JetWeld is supposed to be used on flat position only maybe that is why you're experiencing problems on you're F-2 try out and one warning about this rod is that it could give you trouble with your movement for a long time it gets so hot that your body can not stand it. one word about your selection on the range it was fantastic for a 1/4" in thickness rod = 0.250 so that is the AMPS that you should run this thickness of rod or 250 AMPS + or - 5 to 10 AMPS but I remember this one time we was four running 7024 1/4" thick at 400 AMPS just to get the job done quicker and 4 welders setting A.R plate we all had our welding leads smoking, it was freezing and around 4AM. Completed the job and it lasted for about four years and after that we replace it again
I used to use those rods each and every day at the barge manufacturing facility i worked at. We used 7024 in 5/32 and 7024 in 3/16 big rods. Fun to weld with.
I was on a job with an old man building spools for frac water tanks of of 6” and couldn’t figure out how he was kicking my ass. We were both using roll out wheels so I walked over to talk to him and figured out he was capping with 1/8” 7024 lmao. He schooled me that day.
In ur 2f position.. run a low arc force and run about 300 and hold ur rod straight up.. rather then 45 degree rod angle.. will make that valley go away.. learned that from old school tank builders.. welding tank bottoms.. they told me your not run 7018.. lol but hold the rod straight up gives u a better rod profile.. still good looking welds..
Way back when I was a tank rat. PDM, CBI. We did tank bottoms with 7/32 jet. Called it two bucket work. You took two stingers and two buckets, filled one with water, sat on the other one. Leaned over as far as you could without tipping and lit up. By the time you got to the stub you were leaned all the way over the other way and the stinger was too hot to hold. Unhook it and dump the head in the water, hook up the spare stinger and run the next rod. Rinse and repeat.
Currently we are running the same rod and we are running at 290 in the flat on 1/4 plate on a lap joint. They are one awesome rod. This is at a tank farm in PA
ken caton same here 1971 buck an hour, 7024 3/16” on Cat skid plates. Every four or five rods we would throw the stinger in a bucket of water to cool it off.
At my former fab shop we made pipe out of rolled steel sheets. We’d root it with E7018 and then backgouge it with grinders and then put a pass or two on it. Then we’d fill up the bevel on the outside with either a 1/8 or 5/32 7018 but for our Final cap pass, we’d use a 1/8 7024 on AC Power! It leaves a great looking weld!
I used iron powder (7024) rods quite a bit over 40 years ago (In the UK). You're spot on, they don't like even slight inclines, up or down. However, it could be the rods I suppose, but back in those days, it was normal for all stick welding in a fab shop environment to be AC. They always ran a lot smoother, and with less spatter than yours did. I'm not being critical, DC is definitely what happens now. I was thinking you might like to try the same experiment on AC to see what you think.
Thank you for this. Im a tank welder from AZ burn 7024 5/32 at 225 an for some reason get pin holes. Burn lincon rods. I get fustrated but this is helpful
Pin holes are definitely a pain in the ass. It happens farther back from your arc and it's hard to see, but you should be able to wiggle your rod around right when you see it to counter it.
Turn the arc force down it runs smoother higher arc force will make you a BB king lol plus the slag will peal of by it's self, we ran 1/4 jet, love the video keep up the good work
Eric Nelson I’d agree, the arc shots I’m seeing look pretty choppy on the puddle, I was running old Lincoln’s with an “arc force “ knob before it was arc force ! You can get 7024 to weld w/0 any splatter and peel like none other! Easy clean up which makes you faster !
I built tanks for 13 years before I went to school for pipe welding ..if u reverse the polarities on the machine it will burn smoother. If I never weld another one of those rides again I'll die happy.
Nice job 👍. Just a suggestion, when and IF u can put a fan pointed at you and your welding so the harmful smoke doesn’t get into your lungs and the fan will blow away the smoke at your welding spot giving your viewers a better look at your welding.
I used this rod mud tanks.If you run this right your slag will fall off as the weld cools off. You can also make mess with this rod.If have the wrong rod angle and heat too low.
Valley is called swirl cause from low amperage and slow travel . Need arc force down Amps 260 and travel faster I work in a tank shop 370 feet a day 3/16 7024 average day
I always watch your video's and have got some awesome tips from them. I think why their is a valley on the 1F position is that we always weld half of the bead which prevents valley craters and undercut but as this is mostly a drag rod metal gets disspoisel and can't fuse but in the 2F position gravity pulls the weld bead down as we know gravity is a big role in all positions espicaily on pipe welding. I could be wrong just my point of view. Keep it burning
In the uk most people just call them iron powder rods that can be 3 foot long and 1/2 inches and they where often used in shipyard for welding bulkhead stiffeners
Hey bro, was wondering about arc force with iron rod. Do you keep it around 20% like running 7018 or? And is there a formula for heat settings with different size 7024 rod? We run exact same machine with 5/32 but only at about 180a. That puddle has a tendency to wanna roll ahead of ya with gradual downhill (5-10 degree slope)
Maybe I'm crazy but I saw 2- 1F welds. Granted the steel was straight up and down but you were welding the vertical to the flat. So 2 of the same welds.
He either free-handed, or supported with his lap, but never leaned on the metal for support... is this because of the high amps required for the size of the weld/rod?
Whats the difference between a jet rod vs a lincolin or fleetweld rod???? Can you put down metal faster or have a better bead appearence???are the rods bigger than lets say a lincoln 1/8 rod
Try making a very slight sawing motion with a quick push up short pause then let it slowly drop until the puddle hits where you want on the lower bead or plate. just pausing slightly on the edges if your doing 1f makes the ripples come out a little more rounded and slag boners every time and no Valley on horizontal. Just bury the rod in there and let the rod do the work
Used these electrodes over 40 years age they are high recovery iron powder electrodes ,the concave weld profile is a charactristic of the electrode.you can weave the electrodes if you want ,only goes to prove there is nothing new they just reinvent the product. Well done for using one had when welding ,two handed welding is for is not the best tchnique for welding for a number of reasons
I’m not a fan of 7024. But I am a fan of 7/32” and 1/4” rods. 7018, 10018 doesn’t leave the valley. I use to burn those rods daily working on blow out preventers. And they’re easier to strike because of their weight. You’re also a lot more steadier compared to a 3/32” and 1/8” rods. Good video, kinda choppy compared to your other ones.
Use that rod at an shipyard to weld Pad I on to hook the cranes and come alongs to pull the parts for tacking. Found out cant stay in long place or run to slow or ruin the metal quickly
I noticed the valley with the jet rods when I run them i got asked about a year ago why I was running two beads on a piece of flat bar we were running on the floor of a tank, I didn’t understand why they were asking me that because I didn’t, I realized later that it looked like it because of the valley that runs in the middle, I’ve tried to fix it with rod angle but always get the same results. So I always figure that was the way the profile was supposed to be
The reason it leaves a valley in the 2f bead is because it’s a flat position rod only it has to fluid of a puddle for anything other than flat. Used to burn these things all day
Curious how steep you can go with this rodtype. I see a bit of " crowning" in the beads(due to low rod angle). I use thick covered rutile E42 RR 12 (E6013/E7014)rods. You can go much steeper( 60-70 degrees) but you have to increase travel speed to stay ahead of the puddle (no undercut and quite high amperage required)
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Hey guys I'm a kind of an old fashion guy.... But back on the day I had different runs with different welding procedures and types of welding and what I know is that the 7024 JetWeld is supposed to be used on flat position only maybe that is why you're experiencing problems on you're F-2 try out and one warning about this rod is that it could give you trouble with your movement for a long time it gets so hot that your body can not stand it. one word about your selection on the range it was fantastic for a 1/4" in thickness rod = 0.250 so that is the AMPS that you should run this thickness of rod or 250 AMPS + or - 5 to 10 AMPS but I remember this one time we was four running 7024 1/4" thick at 400 AMPS just to get the job done quicker and 4 welders setting A.R plate we all had our welding leads smoking, it was freezing and around 4AM. Completed the job and it lasted for about four years and after that we replace it again
The Sound of that rod burning in the metal is sweeter than every ASMR Video on TH-cam.
I used this in school except we ran it on AC @ 275 amps and the slag peeled itself. Definitely a fun rod to run.
They run good on AC.
I work on a shipyard! I use these all day love em💪🏽
Never see me used in Canadian ship yards
same here
I used to use those rods each and every day at the barge manufacturing facility i worked at. We used 7024 in 5/32 and 7024 in 3/16 big rods. Fun to weld with.
what amperuer
I was on a job with an old man building spools for frac water tanks of of 6” and couldn’t figure out how he was kicking my ass. We were both using roll out wheels so I walked over to talk to him and figured out he was capping with 1/8” 7024 lmao. He schooled me that day.
OLD AGE AND TREACHERY WILL ALWAYS OVERCOME YOUTH AND SKILLS !!
Us OLD GUYS know the short cuts !!
@@horaciosalinas8145 right on !!
@@timothyleger4385
LOL, that saying is almost as old as 'Welding' itself!,...Regards.
In ur 2f position.. run a low arc force and run about 300 and hold ur rod straight up.. rather then 45 degree rod angle.. will make that valley go away.. learned that from old school tank builders.. welding tank bottoms.. they told me your not run 7018.. lol but hold the rod straight up gives u a better rod profile.. still good looking welds..
Dexter Hatathlie You won’t miss the top wall and get too much buildup on the base by doing that?
Way back when I was a tank rat. PDM, CBI. We did tank bottoms with 7/32 jet. Called it two bucket work. You took two stingers and two buckets, filled one with water, sat on the other one. Leaned over as far as you could without tipping and lit up. By the time you got to the stub you were leaned all the way over the other way and the stinger was too hot to hold. Unhook it and dump the head in the water, hook up the spare stinger and run the next rod. Rinse and repeat.
LoL "my arch control's at 100% and its really helping me out, especially with my arc control"
Currently we are running the same rod and we are running at 290 in the flat on 1/4 plate on a lap joint. They are one awesome rod. This is at a tank farm in PA
290 to 295 is perfect
Angle of rod position defines flat fillet. Rod held perpendicular equals flat weld, well done!
first welding job was running 1/4 inch jet rods. I burned 50 lb. a day for 4.50 a hour. lol I miss those days.
ken caton same here 1971 buck an hour, 7024 3/16” on Cat skid plates. Every four or five rods we would throw the stinger in a bucket of water to cool it off.
I started in 82. still burning rods today. fortunately for a bit ore than 4.50 a hour. :)
Building tanks?
If I remember correctly, running 7024 on AC runs just as smooth. Great video
Where's the last name from ?
They were originally made for welding on AC
the reason why it makes a valley is because when the metal cools it starts to sink and you get a concave.
Agreed. I think the metal at the bottom cools and shrinks first allowing the still molten metal above to flow into the void.
At my former fab shop we made pipe out of rolled steel sheets. We’d root it with E7018 and then backgouge it with grinders and then put a pass or two on it. Then we’d fill up the bevel on the outside with either a 1/8 or 5/32 7018 but for our Final cap pass, we’d use a 1/8 7024 on AC Power! It leaves a great looking weld!
This video brings back memory's from welding school and I had to run back and forth to the water fountain
I swear you can weld anything such a talented person
i just started welding jet rod on a tank maintenance job. so much fun
I really want to try some big jet rods with my Everlast stick welder. I've heard so many crazy things about these rods.
I used iron powder (7024) rods quite a bit over 40 years ago (In the UK). You're spot on, they don't like even slight inclines, up or down. However, it could be the rods I suppose, but back in those days, it was normal for all stick welding in a fab shop environment to be AC. They always ran a lot smoother, and with less spatter than yours did. I'm not being critical, DC is definitely what happens now. I was thinking you might like to try the same experiment on AC to see what you think.
Thank you for this. Im a tank welder from AZ burn 7024 5/32 at 225 an for some reason get pin holes. Burn lincon rods. I get fustrated but this is helpful
Pin holes are definitely a pain in the ass. It happens farther back from your arc and it's hard to see, but you should be able to wiggle your rod around right when you see it to counter it.
7024 runs really nice. Definitely keep up with fluid intake though.
7014 in the right hands can make a strong and beautiful weld in any position. On AC as well.
Turn the arc force down it runs smoother higher arc force will make you a BB king lol plus the slag will peal of by it's self, we ran 1/4 jet, love the video keep up the good work
Eric Nelson I’d agree, the arc shots I’m seeing look pretty choppy on the puddle, I was running old Lincoln’s with an “arc force “ knob before it was arc force ! You can get 7024 to weld w/0 any splatter and peel like none other! Easy clean up which makes you faster !
I am unable to keep 7018 arc for more 1-2 seconds.. it just stops. Looking awesome on the 7024. I’ve truly learned quite a bit! Appreciate y’all.
am i right in thinking these are iron powder rods? they do peel if done right. so satisfying
paul scott yes. At least from my experience
i love all your videos.
i love the way you explain
love you xoxo
Alot of fab shops in michigan used 7024 1/8
3/16 1/4 for welding in the flat position. Now its all mig because of the cost.
Automatic like and subscribe because of that Astros bandana! Go Stros! This is our year!
I built tanks for 13 years before I went to school for pipe welding ..if u reverse the polarities on the machine it will burn smoother. If I never weld another one of those rides again I'll die happy.
I love these rods I only use them flat and for cover I called them 7022 by mistake on another post but these make the prettiest bead....
Reminds me of my shipyard welding days
We use those when we make crushers for mines. Very efficient :D
You get a new hood... looking sharp... keep it up...good stuff... like to see you sitting and support that right hand....
Nice job 👍. Just a suggestion, when and IF u can put a fan pointed at you and your welding so the harmful smoke doesn’t get into your lungs and the fan will blow away the smoke at your welding spot giving your viewers a better look at your welding.
I used this rod mud tanks.If you run this right your slag will fall off as the weld cools off. You can also make mess with this rod.If have the wrong rod angle and heat too low.
killer job 2 tac
they are some beautiful welds wow
Love ur videos but I think u should get a fume or smoke extractor it helps for better view of the puddle for the video thanks
I just got one set up. Video will be up later today
Valley is called swirl cause from low amperage and slow travel . Need arc force down Amps 260 and travel faster I work in a tank shop 370 feet a day 3/16 7024 average day
Reba Briscoe what Amos would you run an 1/8 rod at?!?
you can see from the ripples he skated fast on the last pass of f2 re; "Valley". You are wrong but good for you burning 370 a day
@@relentlesswelding15 110-130
If its concave its either too hot or too fast 👍🏼
Valley just means you got that root set in there nice.
Means your drag angle is too excessive and giving you a long arc due to the way they burn right up inside the flux👍
You should do a 6" pipe with 7018 all the way out. That would be a nice tutorial.
Buddy Crawford like the Swedish welding channel.... lol
Yes but on DCEP I mean there are places that test 7018 all the way out.
I have tested 2 3/4” .625 wall open root 7018 all the way out....it separates the men from the boys. The fitup is critical
Beautiful Bead Nice lesson. Awesome.👍
Love stick welding!
I always watch your video's and have got some awesome tips from them. I think why their is a valley on the 1F position is that we always weld half of the bead which prevents valley craters and undercut but as this is mostly a drag rod metal gets disspoisel and can't fuse but in the 2F position gravity pulls the weld bead down as we know gravity is a big role in all positions espicaily on pipe welding. I could be wrong just my point of view. Keep it burning
Do you have any tutorials on welding blueprints?
I'm remembering when working on shipyards 20 years ago
Jorge Perez gravity fed big smokies lol
@@craighall4675 ?????
Jorge Perez stick rods as big as your arm, the old shipyard guys I worked with called them big smokies lol
@@craighall4675 I never heard that on a Texas shipyards
That FR shirt is super slick brother.
In the uk most people just call them iron powder rods that can be 3 foot long and 1/2 inches and they where often used in shipyard for welding bulkhead stiffeners
That is the biggest right I ever seen in my life!
Very nice tutorial ❤❤❤
Hey bro, was wondering about arc force with iron rod. Do you keep it around 20% like running 7018 or? And is there a formula for heat settings with different size 7024 rod? We run exact same machine with 5/32 but only at about 180a. That puddle has a tendency to wanna roll ahead of ya with gradual downhill (5-10 degree slope)
Ih man that's a fat rod. I love stick welding with the bigger rods just comes out better. Keep up the great work buddy
Maybe I'm crazy but I saw 2- 1F welds. Granted the steel was straight up and down but you were welding the vertical to the flat. So 2 of the same welds.
He either free-handed, or supported with his lap, but never leaned on the metal for support... is this because of the high amps required for the size of the weld/rod?
The flux coating helps produce concave profile
If you run a root with a 6010 and hot pass with a 7024 would it flush out the weld face or would it just dig out the root and still have concave bead?
beautiful welding 👍👍
*i really thought it was going to be more complicated but shit looks easy*
Whats the difference between a jet rod vs a lincolin or fleetweld rod???? Can you put down metal faster or have a better bead appearence???are the rods bigger than lets say a lincoln 1/8 rod
Try making a very slight sawing motion with a quick push up short pause then let it slowly drop until the puddle hits where you want on the lower bead or plate. just pausing slightly on the edges if your doing 1f makes the ripples come out a little more rounded and slag boners every time and no Valley on horizontal. Just bury the rod in there and let the rod do the work
👍 Jason Aldean makes great songs
Excellent workmanship. I do wish you would leave the slag and show it's amount and removal...
This rod is so fun to work with
Used these electrodes over 40 years age they are high recovery iron powder electrodes ,the concave weld profile is a charactristic of the electrode.you can weave the electrodes if you want ,only goes to prove there is nothing new they just reinvent the product. Well done for using one had when welding ,two handed welding is for is not the best tchnique for welding for a number of reasons
Used those rods working in a structural shop, up to 1/4” diameter. We referred to them as “baseball bats”
Batang jet = batang kesenangan😅 amazing technology
I use 7014 the all position "jet rod", down hand on gauge metal panels... lower heat, lower distortion
Goes well. What type of electrodes do you use?
1st love the vids man they help a lot
Did you chip the slag off before the second pass??
I’m not a fan of 7024. But I am a fan of 7/32” and 1/4” rods. 7018, 10018 doesn’t leave the valley. I use to burn those rods daily working on blow out preventers. And they’re easier to strike because of their weight. You’re also a lot more steadier compared to a 3/32” and 1/8” rods. Good video, kinda choppy compared to your other ones.
Use that rod at an shipyard to weld Pad I on to hook the cranes and come alongs to pull the parts for tacking. Found out cant stay in long place or run to slow or ruin the metal quickly
I noticed the valley with the jet rods when I run them i got asked about a year ago why I was running two beads on a piece of flat bar we were running on the floor of a tank, I didn’t understand why they were asking me that because I didn’t, I realized later that it looked like it because of the valley that runs in the middle, I’ve tried to fix it with rod angle but always get the same results. So I always figure that was the way the profile was supposed to be
The reason it leaves a valley in the 2f bead is because it’s a flat position rod only it has to fluid of a puddle for anything other than flat. Used to burn these things all day
You can use it for 2F and it is approved for 2F. Just gotta adjust your angle and arc force
In College we only use 6010 and 7018 rods. My second semester next month
Man i fucks with u. I like the way you are instructing. Cant wait to get my hands on this one day when im at that part of my training!!
Curious how steep you can go with this rodtype. I see a bit of "
crowning" in the beads(due to low rod angle). I use thick covered rutile E42 RR 12 (E6013/E7014)rods. You can go much steeper( 60-70 degrees) but you have to increase travel speed to stay ahead of the puddle (no undercut and quite high amperage required)
No
You should have shown your interpass profile shots for reference. But still a great video.
Real fun rod
Halmar sou seu fã cara realmente vc é ferramenta meu broder porém gostaria que vc reproduzisse vídeos em português pra nois soldadores aqui do Brasil vlw um abraço
Great! Thak you Sir.
Use them to weld bottoms and roof on tanks
Ohhhh there fun , until you have to run them all night for weeks on end !!!
Tanks?
7014 rods are fun to run too!
I think You're best welder for this world 🔥
Where you get that welding cap from?
We don't use that for structural. 7018..
Used these for the first time today on a diesel powered miller. Dam.
Great tutorial Brother, but please invest in a sniffer
(Portable/Mobile Weld Fume Control Units) to take away those poisonous fumes.
Real world welding on the job has no sniffer over your shoulder welding in the field or repair shop or whatever...
@@carsons6519 Disagree. Every job that I've done inside had a sniffer. Outside not really but they do supply proper masks.
Why you're not wearing respirator man? Anyway good job
6gr flux core tutorial please hjalmar thanks and great video like always bro keep it up
Whats about 7028 ? Will it run the same and is it low Hydrogen ?
greetings from Indonesia
Those welds are THICC
7024 is harder to fukup than get right....strike arc, take a 3 minute nap, change rods...repeat. it make great backing for sub-arc welds
Very tutorial ❤❤❤
I seen this video come up and I thought hjalmar was back... damn... lol
What makes it a jet rod the length?