One of my most FAVORITE VIDEOS EVER! I appreciate how you break it down and allow us to see it happening instead of a video of just watching the flash.
The blackboard is fantastic, the colors really pop and are beautiful. Reflection is prob just a lighting and or angle fix. I really like it and hope you keep using it. It is unique and very aesthetically appealing.
Hey Tim, I have a bunch of Crown Alloy Royal 3100 Phosphor Bronze (Copper-Tin) Electrodes. These were given to me as a gift from a very skilled local metal worker in my area. I have looked and there isn't a decent video of this on TH-cam. I would love to give/send you a bunch so you can make a video on how to use them.
Wow, thank you! I've honestly never used those, but they look really cool. I'd be interested to know what he uses them for, perhaps joining dissimilar metals or cladding/repairing bronze alloys. I imagine they may also work for cast iron repair. The best way to reach me is by email at timweldsonline@gmail(dot)com and we can chat about it. I have a few contacts who might know a bit more than I do and may be able to help with a video.
Thanks. You can scuff that blackboard down with some 1000- 3000 grit sandpaper. Whichever looks and works the best. Dull it out a bit. If you dont like it, you can always buff it back out with cerium oxide. Just an idea, if you havent gotten rid of it yet
Stacking dimes is stacking problems… I never do it regardless of the metal thickness. The T pattern you used is a good technique to better help the root. Even so, as you could see on the 1/4” lack of penetration in the joint. Not burning in past the corner is a big problem. People always judge welds by appearance. My welds aren’t as “pretty” but they’re twice as strong. Had a guy that always stacked dimes thinking he was a robot, and showed him up in a strength test. Using the triangle path method…. Awesome representation!!!
Technically the 1/8 and 3/16 weld was done a little different than each other based upon t the hear affected zone while welding. I think if you ran a little hotter on the 3/16 plate you would have the same result as the 1/8 plate. Now that being said, I completely agree with you that stacking done with mig isn't for structural welding. Really the only thing I see is it's something you do when you can't tig weld but you want to pretend you can. Thanks for another great video!
Bro Ive learned a lot from you, and your vids are very entertaining. Been too long since last vid, but thats just me being selfish. I can easily consume as much vid as you put out. Always love your content. Wishing you best luck and success.
A long time ago I learned through destructive testing that the strongest MIG weld with the best fusion looks like a robot laid it down. Smooth, straight, consistent travel speed. It's not beautiful and you won't want to post pictures online, but it's the way to go if you're interested in function.
100% agree. I actually like the look of straight, smooth beads better, but in some circles there's an expectation for this style. These welds held up better than I thought they would, but it certainly isn't ideal for structural work.
From a non welder who just came upon your videos this is fascinating. I’ve never seen so much detail on the subject. Question, when you are taking that path with the welder that you described on the board, are you focusing on the tip, or are you paying attention to the outside of the hot circle? Sorry if I don’t know the terminology. Thanks!
I'm going to do a small project Mig welding with gas. since I'm not doing it full time or on a regular basis, I was looking at getting a small bottle a 40 or 60 size. What I need to know is How many hours of use will I get per full bottle? That will determine which size bottle I should get.
I’ve been trying to teach the people at my job the differences in these methods. Took it upon myself to learn both destructive and NDT methods in order to get the truth across. Seems everyone likes to have there own personal version of reality until you have irrefutable proof otherwise. Getting spray and pulse modes going was a big improvement.
That's definitely true. A good test is worth a 1000 opinions. Spray transfer solves a lot of problems when the setup allows for it, and pulse is a good middle ground.
I very rarely weld like this, and don't recommend it most of the time. In some industries, a certain aesthetic is expected, so I've learned how to do it and it comes in handy from time to time.
I have always given an unwavering higher valuation to function over fashion. But I have come to grips with the fact that sometimes fashion is a big part of the function. TLDR .. there's a time and a place. I think that's why Tim put off this video for so long like he described at the beginning of the vid.
@@tedbastwock3810 sure thing. I guess if you were making an engine intake pipe or something for a show car, where the welds don't get subjected to any real stress, this type of weld would make it look good without the lack of strength being an issue.
@@Sparky_D Indeed, great example. Or, maybe a small piece of furniture where the force on the weld will never come close to exceeding the weld strength, but the weld will be seen.
Informative video. I'm pretty much a beginner welder at the hobbyist level. I always find myself going back and forth over using a push or pull method, but usually end up with more push than pull. Is there any advantage to using one method or the other?
With short circuit MIG like this, either works well and I'd just do what's convenient. Pulling tends to give slightly more penetration generally, but it's not significant. If you ever start using spray transfer or pulsed spray (which includes any aluminum welding), a push angle is the best way to go.
Dear sir , I am a PhD student , I have question about how the electrical power reach the tungsten electrode in TIG machine with out damage and shock??? Thanks
Hello, Tim. I had a question regarding the method of going forward then t shape. Do you use a similar method in stick welding or is it different so as to not weld over the flux?
It depends on what you're trying to accomplish. I recommend running stringer beads with stick welding, at least with rods like 6013, 7014 & 7018. In there vertical up position, a weave works well on cover passes when it's allowed. If you're looking for this type of aesthetic with stick welds, you can get pretty close by using 6010 or 6011 with a whip and pause motion. This is a simple back and forth pattern moving up barely ahead of the puddle, allowing it to freeze, then returning to a location slightly ahead of where you were to build up to the same width, then repeating. You could also incorporate a slight tee shaped motion into the pause to spread it out with these electrodes. This really only works well with these rods since they are fast freeze electrodes.
The truth is that I don’t even like the stacked dimes look even when I TIG. I certainly don’t want it when I MiG. Though, if you use certain techniques such as the “e”, or “c” method of moving, you get some of that anyway without trying to. You definitely need a hydraulic press for those tests.
I'm also in the smooth camp, but some people really like this look so I've found it worthwhile to learn for those occasions. I do need a better way to do some mechanical testing. During my career, I've had fully staffed metallurgical labs at my disposal. It's definitely a different story in the home shop. I'm pretty sure I can pop one of those 1/4" joints by hand with a lever, but my table kept sliding on me.
I never said you aren't supposed to, but it can lead to lack of fusion so it's good to be aware of what you're likely to get. TIG doesn't have that problem.
Aluminum is a little different and is actually much easier to get some ripples without having the same penetration problems. It is welded with spray transfer, which is a hotter process and it also conducts heat really well to cool the puddle quickly, so a slight back and forth stitching motion is all it takes. If you watch any of my aluminum MIG tutorials, I show how to do that.
It's a little table from SWAG off-road which holds a portable bandsaw. Mine has a Milwaukee saw in it. Harbor Freight has a new portable bandsaw stand that has a vertical and horizontal function; I haven't tried it, but if I didn't already have this one I'd look into it as an option.
There's honestly not that much difference between CO2 and an argon blend from an appearance perspective. You'll get a little more spatter and deeper penetration with CO2, which makes it a better fit for thicker stuff. Honestly, I'd just stick with the Argon blend unless you have a compelling reason to use CO2, such as cost when you're running hundreds of feet of weld per day in a factory. For small custom or hobby work, the cost difference is negligible.
This one is the Revolution 2500, it has similar capability to the PP220 on wire feed processes, but also has full featured AC/DC TIG capability. It's an awesome machine.
I'd love to see it! On thicker material, it can lay in a lot smoother than this with the same technique because it's a larger heatsink. There is generally more risk of lack of fusion defects with a lot of manipulation from my experience. My preference is to TIG weld parts to stack dimes. Shoot me an email or IG DM with some photos of your bead, cross section macro etch, break test results and a rundown of your technique. I might make a follow up video with the secret sauce and kudos to you. Thanks for your willingness to show some real dimes and help the community!
Why? Is the" I wish I could Tig" syndrome that prevalent these days? Thats what i mean when I say that TH-cam has turned welding into too much of a Fad. I don't even like talking about it with people anymore.
Best method for stacking dimes on T joints. By my second try using this technique I had already stacked dimes.
I'm just a beginner welder, but I love the fact that you beat the crap out of the welds and showed possible points of improvement. Subscribed!
One of my most FAVORITE VIDEOS EVER! I appreciate how you break it down and allow us to see it happening instead of a video of just watching the flash.
The blackboard is fantastic, the colors really pop and are beautiful. Reflection is prob just a lighting and or angle fix. I really like it and hope you keep using it. It is unique and very aesthetically appealing.
I like it too! Wider markers would be nice, but the skinny ones do well enough.
The blackboard was actually pretty cool. Great video.
Thanks!
X2 on that !
@@TimWelds I think if you played with the lighting position you would get less reflection/glare, worth a try, because I also enjoyed the blackboard.
The glare didn’t get in the way. The board is sweet.
Stacking dimes and stringer beads are interesting techniques. Great info
I didn't notice the reflection on the new blackboard, so would say it's a good addition. Thanks for the vid!
Looks like a heartbeat in your drawing. Pretty cool
Thanks for the advice. I should keep this in mind when I work on old trailers!😁
I'm always learning something new every time I watch, thanks for sharing, all the best to you and your loved ones
That’s Tim’s EKG bead pattern. Great video. Thanks!
QRS wave pattern is within normal parameters.
Hey Tim, I have a bunch of Crown Alloy Royal 3100 Phosphor Bronze (Copper-Tin) Electrodes. These were given to me as a gift from a very skilled local metal worker in my area. I have looked and there isn't a decent video of this on TH-cam. I would love to give/send you a bunch so you can make a video on how to use them.
Wow, thank you! I've honestly never used those, but they look really cool. I'd be interested to know what he uses them for, perhaps joining dissimilar metals or cladding/repairing bronze alloys. I imagine they may also work for cast iron repair. The best way to reach me is by email at timweldsonline@gmail(dot)com and we can chat about it. I have a few contacts who might know a bit more than I do and may be able to help with a video.
Can i have your email address please 🙏
Thanks. You can scuff that blackboard down with some 1000- 3000 grit sandpaper. Whichever looks and works the best. Dull it out a bit. If you dont like it, you can always buff it back out with cerium oxide. Just an idea, if you havent gotten rid of it yet
You got your self a new sub. I like you man, next week I'm starting a welding class and your videos are gonna help me a lot. THANKS MAN.
Stacking dimes is stacking problems… I never do it regardless of the metal thickness.
The T pattern you used is a good technique to better help the root. Even so, as you could see on the 1/4” lack of penetration in the joint. Not burning in past the corner is a big problem.
People always judge welds by appearance. My welds aren’t as “pretty” but they’re twice as strong. Had a guy that always stacked dimes thinking he was a robot, and showed him up in a strength test. Using the triangle path method….
Awesome representation!!!
I like to do kind of upwards loops, and it results in pretty nice looking dimes.
Technically the 1/8 and 3/16 weld was done a little different than each other based upon t the hear affected zone while welding. I think if you ran a little hotter on the 3/16 plate you would have the same result as the 1/8 plate.
Now that being said, I completely agree with you that stacking done with mig isn't for structural welding. Really the only thing I see is it's something you do when you can't tig weld but you want to pretend you can.
Thanks for another great video!
Bro Ive learned a lot from you, and your vids are very entertaining. Been too long since last vid, but thats just me being selfish. I can easily consume as much vid as you put out. Always love your content. Wishing you best luck and success.
Thanks a ton! I appreciate it!
The black board is a welcome addition in my opinion.
Cool! I'll keep it around.
Always appreciate you videos Tim. Thanks again - Jake
I appreciate that!
A long time ago I learned through destructive testing that the strongest MIG weld with the best fusion looks like a robot laid it down. Smooth, straight, consistent travel speed.
It's not beautiful and you won't want to post pictures online, but it's the way to go if you're interested in function.
100% agree. I actually like the look of straight, smooth beads better, but in some circles there's an expectation for this style. These welds held up better than I thought they would, but it certainly isn't ideal for structural work.
@@TimWelds 哈哈哈~万恶的鱼鳞焊！
From a non welder who just came upon your videos this is fascinating. I’ve never seen so much detail on the subject.
Question, when you are taking that path with the welder that you described on the board, are you focusing on the tip, or are you paying attention to the outside of the hot circle? Sorry if I don’t know the terminology. Thanks!
"Givin' it the beans ..." 🤣lol new expression for me, Tim, love it
Tim's been watching Sarah-N-Tuned :)
Love that channel!
Thanks Tim. Great instructor!
I'm going to do a small project Mig welding with gas. since I'm not doing it full time or on a regular basis, I was looking at getting a small bottle a 40 or 60 size.
What I need to know is How many hours of use will I get per full bottle? That will determine which size bottle I should get.
I’ve been trying to teach the people at my job the differences in these methods. Took it upon myself to learn both destructive and NDT methods in order to get the truth across. Seems everyone likes to have there own personal version of reality until you have irrefutable proof otherwise. Getting spray and pulse modes going was a big improvement.
That's definitely true. A good test is worth a 1000 opinions. Spray transfer solves a lot of problems when the setup allows for it, and pulse is a good middle ground.
Nice! Pattern movement looks like normal sinus rhythm from a heart monitor..
GREAT VIDEO
Thanks Peter!
It's like a heartbeat 😊
A pulse. Heartbeat
I se absolutely no point in "stacking dimes" for "aesthetics" when it's not as strong. A straight bead looks good and is stronger...
I very rarely weld like this, and don't recommend it most of the time. In some industries, a certain aesthetic is expected, so I've learned how to do it and it comes in handy from time to time.
I have always given an unwavering higher valuation to function over fashion. But I have come to grips with the fact that sometimes fashion is a big part of the function. TLDR .. there's a time and a place. I think that's why Tim put off this video for so long like he described at the beginning of the vid.
@@tedbastwock3810 sure thing. I guess if you were making an engine intake pipe or something for a show car, where the welds don't get subjected to any real stress, this type of weld would make it look good without the lack of strength being an issue.
@@Sparky_D Indeed, great example. Or, maybe a small piece of furniture where the force on the weld will never come close to exceeding the weld strength, but the weld will be seen.
@@tedbastwock3810or In different processes like stick or flux core welding whipping makes it stronger
when it comes to stack dimes or any joint technique in welding do some apply to all types of welding?
Stack o' dimes look is very popular.
But as someone who has done hundreds of weld tests, they are more suspect than a continuous stringer...
Can you do an acid etch on that please?
Very good instructional video as usual Tim! Side question…your band saw blade goes through that 1/4” steel pretty quickly. What blades do you like?
These are just DeWalt 24TPI portaband blades, and they work pretty good. My pick is Starrett if I'm going for top quality.
Informative video. I'm pretty much a beginner welder at the hobbyist level. I always find myself going back and forth over using a push or pull method, but usually end up with more push than pull. Is there any advantage to using one method or the other?
With short circuit MIG like this, either works well and I'd just do what's convenient. Pulling tends to give slightly more penetration generally, but it's not significant. If you ever start using spray transfer or pulsed spray (which includes any aluminum welding), a push angle is the best way to go.
Dear sir , I am a PhD student , I have question about how the electrical power reach the tungsten electrode in TIG machine with out damage and shock???
Thanks
Hello, Tim. I had a question regarding the method of going forward then t shape. Do you use a similar method in stick welding or is it different so as to not weld over the flux?
It depends on what you're trying to accomplish. I recommend running stringer beads with stick welding, at least with rods like 6013, 7014 & 7018. In there vertical up position, a weave works well on cover passes when it's allowed. If you're looking for this type of aesthetic with stick welds, you can get pretty close by using 6010 or 6011 with a whip and pause motion. This is a simple back and forth pattern moving up barely ahead of the puddle, allowing it to freeze, then returning to a location slightly ahead of where you were to build up to the same width, then repeating. You could also incorporate a slight tee shaped motion into the pause to spread it out with these electrodes. This really only works well with these rods since they are fast freeze electrodes.
@@TimWelds Thanks a lot for such a detailed response.
Thanks
little preheat on the thicker stuff probably would have made it a pass.
The truth is that I don’t even like the stacked dimes look even when I TIG. I certainly don’t want it when I MiG. Though, if you use certain techniques such as the “e”, or “c” method of moving, you get some of that anyway without trying to. You definitely need a hydraulic press for those tests.
I'm also in the smooth camp, but some people really like this look so I've found it worthwhile to learn for those occasions. I do need a better way to do some mechanical testing. During my career, I've had fully staffed metallurgical labs at my disposal. It's definitely a different story in the home shop. I'm pretty sure I can pop one of those 1/4" joints by hand with a lever, but my table kept sliding on me.
Can anybody plz explain to me why u aren't supposed to stack dimes with MIG but r allowed big wide weaves with TIG?
I never said you aren't supposed to, but it can lead to lack of fusion so it's good to be aware of what you're likely to get. TIG doesn't have that problem.
Whiteboard looks like it would film better.
Does the same apply to aluminum?
Aluminum is a little different and is actually much easier to get some ripples without having the same penetration problems. It is welded with spray transfer, which is a hotter process and it also conducts heat really well to cool the puddle quickly, so a slight back and forth stitching motion is all it takes. If you watch any of my aluminum MIG tutorials, I show how to do that.
有意思的实验！！
谢谢
Yah, you need a Fireball Hardtail Vise :).
Totally! One day I'd love to have one. That blue vise is actually from Fireball tool, it's their small one and it's a great vise for the money.
Hey brother can you spare a stack of dimes?
Thanks Tim.
Any time, Craig! It won't go as far as it used to, though.
What band saw is that?
It's a little table from SWAG off-road which holds a portable bandsaw. Mine has a Milwaukee saw in it. Harbor Freight has a new portable bandsaw stand that has a vertical and horizontal function; I haven't tried it, but if I didn't already have this one I'd look into it as an option.
Too many people are worried about stacking dimes instead of making a strong weld
I'm sure Fireball Tool would love to sell you a beefy vise.
This is a Fireball vise...not their big one though.
Can you show us what is the differrence in appearance between using Argon and using CO2
There's honestly not that much difference between CO2 and an argon blend from an appearance perspective. You'll get a little more spatter and deeper penetration with CO2, which makes it a better fit for thicker stuff. Honestly, I'd just stick with the Argon blend unless you have a compelling reason to use CO2, such as cost when you're running hundreds of feet of weld per day in a factory. For small custom or hobby work, the cost difference is negligible.
@@TimWelds thank u
4:25 is concerning
45 degrees , not was you was doing
?????????????
Htp Pp220?
This one is the Revolution 2500, it has similar capability to the PP220 on wire feed processes, but also has full featured AC/DC TIG capability. It's an awesome machine.
👍👍👍
That’s is not stacking dimes, that’s bird shit my friend lol, I will show u stacked dimes in a strong weld! 😂😂
I'd love to see it! On thicker material, it can lay in a lot smoother than this with the same technique because it's a larger heatsink. There is generally more risk of lack of fusion defects with a lot of manipulation from my experience. My preference is to TIG weld parts to stack dimes. Shoot me an email or IG DM with some photos of your bead, cross section macro etch, break test results and a rundown of your technique. I might make a follow up video with the secret sauce and kudos to you. Thanks for your willingness to show some real dimes and help the community!
too bad nobody can stack dimes using flux core
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😎
Stacking dimes wasting time
Why? Is the" I wish I could Tig" syndrome that prevalent these days? Thats what i mean when I say that TH-cam has turned welding into too much of a Fad. I don't even like talking about it with people anymore.
That's CRAP MATE Weaving for Vertical up ONLY
Did you watch the video...that's kind of the point.