2 coworkers flooded 3 inches of a basement smoking joints waiting for a 55gallon drum to fill with RO. Sump pump also, with a float valve switch set up
Lot of variables but never found anything that performed super well under like 75° in veg, late flower ill drop it in line with rh for good VPD but veg and early flower a warmer room will male a huge difference.
And if you can control night time temps to be equal or even 1 degree warmer during pre flower stretch bit can help cut it down significantly for some cultivars, but 10° dips during flower after.
Constant moisture is actually a good thing, but yes need good drainage and aeration also. Fabric pots help a lot with this. Blumat or similar auto-watering systems keep soil at a perfect moisture level with only a little fluctuation. You can still overwater while trying to maintain that perfect moisture level though. Living soil needs to maintain enough humidity so the bacteria, microbes, nematodes, fungi etc don't die from lack of moisture. Top layer of some form of mulch (living/hay/compost/perlite etc) is crucial.
I just started as a 1st time grower with fabric pots, and i'll never use them again. I'm trying out air-pots next time. The problem with fabric pots for me is the inconsistent shape, which makes the soil crumble apart and detach from the sides when moving or lifting the pot. Because of this i had to put so much soil in the pot, always fixing holes. In a 15L pot i had to put 20-25L of soil to finally make it settle nicely. Now the drainage is not the way i wanted. And the water drips from the sides as well, but it drips based on shape, if the fabric is bent somewhere. With air-pots at least it will drip from the holes. And i love that the air-pots have raisers integrated on the bottom, no need for additional raisers or pebbles. The only thing with air-pots, i would put a pantyhose over it so no fungus gnats can enter from the side holes.
Fiber pots to be lined on the vertical surfaces to prevent drying of the circumference. I use earth boxes and feed the soil. I have no complaints with either the process or the product.
That whole over watering thing is true but at the same time it held me back for a long time. Once roots are established if you have a highly aerated medium like a coco 70/30 high frequency fertigation is a game changer. Im talking feeding 6 to 8 times a day so the medium is always saturated. The plants will yield more then ever but a drip system is needed.
Airpumps are peanuts to run, very low wattage. I leave mine outside all season on 247, along with my box fans.. 2 seasons now, no issues and pushes lots of air for about 50W 24 hours a day.
I like hydroton as u can't over water.15 min on 15 min of 18 hours a day and 2 x 15 min water at night via drip recicrculating system. Only thingvto manage then is ph which takes 2 minutes of your time a day. Typidal kit is a 75cm x 75cm 40 litre resovoir wilma (now called origin kit) enough for 4 plants in 3 gallon (12 litre pots) under a telos 10 pro 300watt led light is perfect in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.2m tent (4 by 4). Upgrading thd 4 drip line manifold to 8 drip line manifold is a good idea. Basically it's dwc but in clay balls. Shogun nutes are a good line and rhizo pots.
Using coco as a medium with fabric pots helps eliminate over watering, a stock tank float works great for over filling tank...when its full it shuts off water flow, you can can get them at any feed store cheap
Darn good tips and common sense.👍 This worked for me a 1/2 doz. times to save water-logged plants. Unpot immediately. Shake off most of the wet medium (keep some) from the roots and replant with dry medium. The dry medium will wick excess water from the remainder in the root-ball (keeping roots from going dry). A few hours later the plants look like they're recovering. Water a bit, by judging if the dry soil has become moist enough. Hard to judge because we're dealing with droopy leaves as the symptom of overwatering. With bottom watering I had saturated the bottom half of my pot, and the mix didn't have enough aeration. From the top I couldn't see what was happening. My solution now is to add more aeration to the medium that I initially fill the pot with to sit the root-ball on. Then side fill with regular mix. Cheers. I hope someone finds this usfeul.
@@After_Pasta Do you mean before they got soaked? If so, they were clones growing into mothers in 6' pots. It was my soil, A little heavy and got packed in a couple of pots out of twenty. I had the same results with other types of plants. Once a small tree outside. The hole was in hard ground and the rain filled the hole. It was literally soup.
@@After_Pasta Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was only one variety out of four. The clones were taken from in-ground plants, so I didn't know how they'd grow. I'm in a cold climate and just want to winter some. Have to take cuts by mid-aug. latest. At least my rooting game is 98%+.
I don't grow indoors. Outdoors is organic no-till in well developed beds that have never been walked on. Between the beds, the paths were covered in ramial woodchips. When I checked my roots they went out of the bed and were deep in the 10 yr. old chips. I had set this garden up as a permaculture veg. garden. Since Canadian legalization, I took one row and grow my legal four. They get huge in there, yielding over a pound/each. Plenty of worms.
@@After_Pasta It's crazy trying to keep them small and slow growing for 9 months until I can plant them out. I found last year that keeping them underfed, cold, and rootbound helped to keep them under 12 inches until into February. Right now I just moved them up to 4" pots. I'll take some clones off the tops for friends, pot up to 6-8" and end up with 24" round bushes to put in the garden in May.
I found some decent cultivars just by letting the plants sink or swim, then breeding the survivors over and over and over and . . . over again until you feel like a mad scientist or you run out of space for compost.
Yeap , this guy was like “well the best varieties are on our website “ sounds like he was just pushing his product , ive planted seeds from trash weed and got fire , its a WEED for fuck sake 😂🤷♂️
Add a little Arduino control alarm to put off the pumps... can link to your phone also like a baby monitor.... or set an alarm on your phone... don't flood _repeatedly_ y'all
Great job guys. Man I wish I could work with a garden like that for a living! How many different cultivars are you working with in that facility? Looks like a couple different kinds due to the different shapes and sizes... Very nice indeed 👍
I say more than a weekly visit for pests. I say everytime. So pests makes eggs in dirt and can last for quite a while. But vigilant Pest control, without damaging plants is recommended. Higher Temps, worldwide, will increase bug placement and migration
I've used the same 4 - 5 gal home depot buckets for my N lights grows the past 8 yrs with right amount of holes drilled and a black poly screen lining the inside , I do this to keep the gals mobile living in one of the top 3 coldest states in the country where temps/dew points can drop insanely fast . I do my best to keep them outdoors as much as possible but have a heated/cooled ventilated enclosure in my garage with some decent 3 cycle grow bulbs . Only had 2 bum plants (both my fault) next spring I'm gonna try a different strain . Any suggestions for a tuff photo soil strain ?
I would say watch out for health issues on plants. Many people give more nutrients if they see the plant isn't taking up....or change the ph level. But honestly, a lot can be solved with a little Epson salt. Magnesium sulfate. Magnesium works in plants like iron works for human. It helps bring the rest of nutrients to the remaining plant. Just like he mentioned paying attention to overwater leaves, also pay attention to colors. Light yellow, brown spotted blotches, gray leaves, leaves that look scaled or veined, burned tips.... All will tell a different story.
Bottom watering makes over watering hard to do. Water won't wick up enough to soak the soil too much, especially with a wicking bed that has an overflow hole. If you wait until the reservoir is empty or almost empty and fill to close to the overflow you can't really go wrong. Earthboxes or the copies sold at big box stores, or homemade copies, are really easy to use and hard to screw up.
HID's are the only way to yield properly. Tip. Nute solution at 67 holds 10x's as much O2 than nute solution at 77. Prevention is the best cure for pests! Assume everything has pests, especially bringing new genetics in
With the value of pot dropping, using hids is not much profitable, unless you’re trying to steal electricity and do illegal stuff. The new leds, that I have cover 5x5 for 1000w and yields 3lbs. Hids I only got 2.
@@Bnguyen276 I'll hit 2 to 3.5 per light, and always top shelf. It costs more to heat a room than cool it. With Mini Splits, and these old school hoods, 2 table covers my electric in the warehouse. Air cooled hoods, and an inline fan every 3 lights, I don't need AC half the year. Show me a 3lb LED table. I can show you 50 3lb tables in 1 flower room
@@kiddynamite3931 PhytoMAX-3 can yield over 7lbs a light. Phytonax uses 1220 actual watts and 2622 μmol/s total that covers 7.5x7.5 area. I’m using Photontek 1000 5x5 and I hit 3lbs without c02, if you want to talk about efficiently, led will blow out hid with the new lights they have came out with recently. Led is just getting started, hids will be Stone Age for growing. If I drop the light down and bring my ppfd past 1000 and use c02 if I had an enclosed room, I can break 4lbs if I wanted to. 1 photo max light covers 7.5 x 7.5 space. Show me a hid that cover that much. Hids what? Covers 3x4? Lmao , everyone in the growing industry knows leds are way more efficient than hids in growing weight by the watts. Give me one photo max-3 and I’ll out grow your one hid light any day by weight. I guarantee you that. With one light I get 4 times more grow area for 200 more watts. You’re not gonna out grow me with any 1 single hid light on the market. Over 55 sqft of grow vs 12 sqft, you’re gonna lose.
@@Bnguyen276 How large an area? Show me. Not a commercial, but a non sponsored, unbiased botanist. I'm not saying you're lying, but I've been hearing it for years. Never seen it. Look at my profile pic in a min. I'm the breeder, but still.
@@kiddynamite3931 let’s bet, give me one phyton max 3 1200 watt, vs 1 bulb of yours any hid. Commercial don’t mean shit bro, shows you don’t know the meaning of growing. Commercial just mean you just have to lift the light more so it don’t kill the plant due to high ppfd and you don’t have to use c02. You can take a commercial light and lift it high and not use c02. Same goes for hid, you have to lower the hood if you want to use c02. Any light can be commercial if you lower it enough to get over 1000 ppfd, and you have to use c02 over 1000 ppfd. 10 years ago hids were considered commercial.
pH to 6, yep. Apera PH and EC instruments or Bluelab if you go commercial. No other brands work as good or have good reliable brandness, and good support
If you go no till organic living soil you don't always need to ph this last harvest I got over a pound off 4 indoor plants in 5 gallons in a 3x3 tent in my apartment not phing at all except using distilled water during the germination and early seedling stage vs 6 ounces from 4 plants same setup last run adjusting the 7 to 7.5 ph down to 6. I bet it's super important for non organic though.
@@jamesduffy9826 custom blend of every type of organic dry ammendment people online recommended for an organic living soil mix that Merrifield garden center carried plus 1/3 of one run used coasts of maine plus some pearlite probably 15% or so
Bottled nutes are the same as organic nutes minus the middle man of microbes breaking it down. Plants don't absorb worm castings and bat guano. Plants absorb nitrogen urea and potassium chlorate. The shit in the bottles already to go. You guys are silly when you clearly don't understand science
Check out VPD. Ideal humidity to promote plant growth and general health is different at different Temps. Look at the Pulse chart available free on the site. Attention to VPD has improved the density of my flower.
There is a specific RH range you need to be in so the stomata’s stay open and your plant isn’t wasting light. It’s called vapor pressure deficit. Charts and calculators available online. It’s not get rid of humidity like this guy has implied.
Mother nature works on a organic nutrient system not salt based nutrients I never make sure I get run off with my organic and never have issues but my salt based feeding if I don't get that 20% runoff I definitely get issues with nutrient build up. Throwing pH off and nutrient imbalance
@@johnnysanchez4996 As long as you arent using (now toxic heavy metal filled) guanos like bat and seabird guano. Believe me this is a huge issue people dont talk abot.. university of kentucky has a huge paper on heavy metals in bat guano, and seabird guano has been known toxic in the arctic for decades now (all because of human pollution from farming)
@@dertythegrower I use Worm Castings. Either way, I’ve used bottle nutrients in a DWC and organic dry amendment’s in soil and there’s a big difference.
@@johnnysanchez4996 organic is no different than high quality liquid nutrients. The organics brake down into the same compounds. With synthetic nutrients you just skip the brake down step.
![High Rollers: Wendy Kornberg [Full Show] KNF, Garlic Diesel, Regenerative Ag & Humboldt Cannabis](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cFdSupTRioo/mqdefault.jpg)
Mistakes and problems have been my greatest teachers. Rock on.
Keep things simple, and don't think so much..less is more.
Rule #1… never walk away from a running hose. Rule #2) never walk away from a running hose. Oh and yeah … get a shop vac… absolute game changer
Hahahaha
This so hilariously true, I’ve seen this go really really wrong lol
Lmao
2 coworkers flooded 3 inches of a basement smoking joints waiting for a 55gallon drum to fill with RO.
Sump pump also, with a float valve switch set up
Seems like this is a common problem haha
Funny stuff
Finally a new ganjier episode! I Appreciate you Derek.
Talk to your plants and tell them how much you admire and appreciate them...they hear you. 💚
Mine love Mark Knopfler when they hit flower
They *feel* you 💚
I know this for the big boys but I’m in a 4x4 and found this very helpful
68 to 78° with a 10-15° drop at night is purfect tempture !!! 😊
I've been growing for 46 years.
Lot of variables but never found anything that performed super well under like 75° in veg, late flower ill drop it in line with rh for good VPD but veg and early flower a warmer room will male a huge difference.
And if you can control night time temps to be equal or even 1 degree warmer during pre flower stretch bit can help cut it down significantly for some cultivars, but 10° dips during flower after.
That's too cold. I get the best growth and yield 76 to 85 degrees 40 yo 60% humidity
@@acme420 No it isn't
Hot stretches it! 🤷🏻♂️
Might look bigger but it's the internodes !
Good question!
Awesome interview I written down some notes thank you God bless you guys
This is a smart well educated guy who makes his life
GREAT info...👊💚👊
Now THAT's high praise! :)
Constant moisture is actually a good thing, but yes need good drainage and aeration also. Fabric pots help a lot with this. Blumat or similar auto-watering systems keep soil at a perfect moisture level with only a little fluctuation. You can still overwater while trying to maintain that perfect moisture level though. Living soil needs to maintain enough humidity so the bacteria, microbes, nematodes, fungi etc don't die from lack of moisture. Top layer of some form of mulch (living/hay/compost/perlite etc) is crucial.
I just started as a 1st time grower with fabric pots, and i'll never use them again. I'm trying out air-pots next time.
The problem with fabric pots for me is the inconsistent shape, which makes the soil crumble apart and detach from the sides when moving or lifting the pot.
Because of this i had to put so much soil in the pot, always fixing holes. In a 15L pot i had to put 20-25L of soil to finally make it settle nicely. Now the drainage is not the way i wanted.
And the water drips from the sides as well, but it drips based on shape, if the fabric is bent somewhere. With air-pots at least it will drip from the holes.
And i love that the air-pots have raisers integrated on the bottom, no need for additional raisers or pebbles.
The only thing with air-pots, i would put a pantyhose over it so no fungus gnats can enter from the side holes.
Fiber pots to be lined on the vertical surfaces to prevent drying of the circumference. I use earth boxes and feed the soil. I have no complaints with either the process or the product.
@@skipgrumblis That defeats the entire point of a fabric pot.
That whole over watering thing is true but at the same time it held me back for a long time. Once roots are established if you have a highly aerated medium like a coco 70/30 high frequency fertigation is a game changer. Im talking feeding 6 to 8 times a day so the medium is always saturated. The plants will yield more then ever but a drip system is needed.
Airpumps are peanuts to run, very low wattage. I leave mine outside all season on 247, along with my box fans.. 2 seasons now, no issues and pushes lots of air for about 50W 24 hours a day.
@@dopamine-87 he said a drip system was needed.
what you running your EC at?
I like hydroton as u can't over water.15 min on 15 min of 18 hours a day and 2 x 15 min water at night via drip recicrculating system. Only thingvto manage then is ph which takes 2 minutes of your time a day. Typidal kit is a 75cm x 75cm 40 litre resovoir wilma (now called origin kit) enough for 4 plants in 3 gallon (12 litre pots) under a telos 10 pro 300watt led light is perfect in a 1.2m x 1.2m x 2.2m tent (4 by 4). Upgrading thd 4 drip line manifold to 8 drip line manifold is a good idea. Basically it's dwc but in clay balls. Shogun nutes are a good line and rhizo pots.
Aquaponics can get as wet as you want because of the flood and drain and high beneficial microbe levels
The weather is looking good these days !!!
Using coco as a medium with fabric pots helps eliminate over watering, a stock tank float works great for over filling tank...when its full it shuts off water flow, you can can get them at any feed store cheap
Good job fellas.
awesome! thanks so much guys
Darn good tips and common sense.👍 This worked for me a 1/2 doz. times to save water-logged plants. Unpot immediately. Shake off most of the wet medium (keep some) from the roots and replant with dry medium. The dry medium will wick excess water from the remainder in the root-ball (keeping roots from going dry). A few hours later the plants look like they're recovering. Water a bit, by judging if the dry soil has become moist enough. Hard to judge because we're dealing with droopy leaves as the symptom of overwatering. With bottom watering I had saturated the bottom half of my pot, and the mix didn't have enough aeration. From the top I couldn't see what was happening. My solution now is to add more aeration to the medium that I initially fill the pot with to sit the root-ball on. Then side fill with regular mix. Cheers. I hope someone finds this usfeul.
Very useful. Thanks
@@After_Pasta Do you mean before they got soaked? If so, they were clones growing into mothers in 6' pots. It was my soil, A little heavy and got packed in a couple of pots out of twenty. I had the same results with other types of plants. Once a small tree outside. The hole was in hard ground and the rain filled the hole. It was literally soup.
@@After_Pasta Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was only one variety out of four. The clones were taken from in-ground plants, so I didn't know how they'd grow. I'm in a cold climate and just want to winter some. Have to take cuts by mid-aug. latest. At least my rooting game is 98%+.
I don't grow indoors. Outdoors is organic no-till in well developed beds that have never been walked on. Between the beds, the paths were covered in ramial woodchips. When I checked my roots they went out of the bed and were deep in the 10 yr. old chips. I had set this garden up as a permaculture veg. garden. Since Canadian legalization, I took one row and grow my legal four. They get huge in there, yielding over a pound/each. Plenty of worms.
@@After_Pasta It's crazy trying to keep them small and slow growing for 9 months until I can plant them out. I found last year that keeping them underfed, cold, and rootbound helped to keep them under 12 inches until into February. Right now I just moved them up to 4" pots. I'll take some clones off the tops for friends, pot up to 6-8" and end up with 24" round bushes to put in the garden in May.
I found some decent cultivars just by letting the plants sink or swim, then breeding the survivors over and over and over and . . . over again until you feel like a mad scientist or you run out of space for compost.
Yeap , this guy was like “well the best varieties are on our website “ sounds like he was just pushing his product , ive planted seeds from trash weed and got fire , its a WEED for fuck sake 😂🤷♂️
Wonder if the hubby ever came back...
The sweet spot is not when they start drooping but just before. It's when you notice the shine going away from the leaves but not the leaves drooping.
I agree. He was generalizing for the beginner so they have something to look for then learn rather than over watering.
The smell in this very room should make people happy.
Add a little Arduino control alarm to put off the pumps... can link to your phone also like a baby monitor.... or set an alarm on your phone... don't flood _repeatedly_ y'all
Great job guys. Man I wish I could work with a garden like that for a living! How many different cultivars are you working with in that facility? Looks like a couple different kinds due to the different shapes and sizes... Very nice indeed 👍
I say more than a weekly visit for pests. I say everytime.
So pests makes eggs in dirt and can last for quite a while. But vigilant Pest control, without damaging plants is recommended.
Higher Temps, worldwide, will increase bug placement and migration
Good information, thanks.
Summer time. lights on at night.
Winter 2 👌
I've used the same 4 - 5 gal home depot buckets for my N lights grows the past 8 yrs with right amount of holes drilled and a black poly screen lining the inside , I do this to keep the gals mobile living in one of the top 3 coldest states in the country where temps/dew points can drop insanely fast . I do my best to keep them outdoors as much as possible but have a heated/cooled ventilated enclosure in my garage with some decent 3 cycle grow bulbs . Only had 2 bum plants (both my fault) next spring I'm gonna try a different strain . Any suggestions for a tuff photo soil strain ?
thanks
Yeah you want to watch overwatering but if you underwater it can be just as bad imo
Yup especially in living soil
I wouldnt say equal though
I would say watch out for health issues on plants.
Many people give more nutrients if they see the plant isn't taking up....or change the ph level.
But honestly, a lot can be solved with a little Epson salt. Magnesium sulfate.
Magnesium works in plants like iron works for human. It helps bring the rest of nutrients to the remaining plant. Just like he mentioned paying attention to overwater leaves, also pay attention to colors. Light yellow, brown spotted blotches, gray leaves, leaves that look scaled or veined, burned tips.... All will tell a different story.
Most common mistake is buying and using bottled nutrients. Coots mix saved my life.
Organic, sungrown, living soil. The way nature intended.💪🏽🤙🏼💨
Not quite the analogy I would use, but I see what ya did there. Killing cancer is natural too 🐘
@@TheDabEnthusiastGaming couldn't tell ya, probably lab made like tha Rona
@@TheDabEnthusiastGaming clearly
Young dabber coming in with the arguing. Dabber hates autoflowera too
Nice!
Bottom watering makes over watering hard to do. Water won't wick up enough to soak the soil too much, especially with a wicking bed that has an overflow hole. If you wait until the reservoir is empty or almost empty and fill to close to the overflow you can't really go wrong. Earthboxes or the copies sold at big box stores, or homemade copies, are really easy to use and hard to screw up.
@Tommy Yuckguts I wouldn't try starting a seed in 5 gallons by bottom watering. But it works in solo cups until time to transplant.
How is Constant moisture bad in hydro their wet all the time
Good stuff 👏
Me Walking In There Rolling Papers In Hand 😏
Smoke wet weed ? 🤯
HID's are the only way to yield properly. Tip. Nute solution at 67 holds 10x's as much O2 than nute solution at 77. Prevention is the best cure for pests! Assume everything has pests, especially bringing new genetics in
With the value of pot dropping, using hids is not much profitable, unless you’re trying to steal electricity and do illegal stuff. The new leds, that I have cover 5x5 for 1000w and yields 3lbs. Hids I only got 2.
@@Bnguyen276 I'll hit 2 to 3.5 per light, and always top shelf. It costs more to heat a room than cool it. With Mini Splits, and these old school hoods, 2 table covers my electric in the warehouse. Air cooled hoods, and an inline fan every 3 lights, I don't need AC half the year. Show me a 3lb LED table. I can show you 50 3lb tables in 1 flower room
@@kiddynamite3931 PhytoMAX-3 can yield over 7lbs a light. Phytonax uses 1220 actual watts and 2622 μmol/s total that covers 7.5x7.5 area. I’m using Photontek 1000 5x5 and I hit 3lbs without c02, if you want to talk about efficiently, led will blow out hid with the new lights they have came out with recently. Led is just getting started, hids will be Stone Age for growing. If I drop the light down and bring my ppfd past 1000 and use c02 if I had an enclosed room, I can break 4lbs if I wanted to. 1 photo max light covers 7.5 x 7.5 space. Show me a hid that cover that much. Hids what? Covers 3x4? Lmao , everyone in the growing industry knows leds are way more efficient than hids in growing weight by the watts. Give me one photo max-3 and I’ll out grow your one hid light any day by weight. I guarantee you that. With one light I get 4 times more grow area for 200 more watts. You’re not gonna out grow me with any 1 single hid light on the market. Over 55 sqft of grow vs 12 sqft, you’re gonna lose.
@@Bnguyen276 How large an area? Show me. Not a commercial, but a non sponsored, unbiased botanist. I'm not saying you're lying, but I've been hearing it for years. Never seen it. Look at my profile pic in a min. I'm the breeder, but still.
@@kiddynamite3931 let’s bet, give me one phyton max 3 1200 watt, vs 1 bulb of yours any hid. Commercial don’t mean shit bro, shows you don’t know the meaning of growing. Commercial just mean you just have to lift the light more so it don’t kill the plant due to high ppfd and you don’t have to use c02. You can take a commercial light and lift it high and not use c02. Same goes for hid, you have to lower the hood if you want to use c02. Any light can be commercial if you lower it enough to get over 1000 ppfd, and you have to use c02 over 1000 ppfd. 10 years ago hids were considered commercial.
💞
Talk about a dream job
Smartpots?
If i waterlog, a heat pad dries it back within a day
Alot of factors...but nothing for a greenthumber plants are life! #IndoorScrogMonsterPlantGrowerLettingItFlourish
hello boss you need people for work ?
Well I must have done something right cuz my plant looks better than theirs
🤣
They probably have 500+ plants in that 1 room. Do you have that many??
77 - 82 .
Constant moisture is the goal. Just at 50% water content, not 100%.
I clicked on this video just to see this mans hair
the 70's called, they want their hairstyle back.
The 70’s called they want their slang back…far out and right on 😆
Yes shop vac amen !✌️🤣👍
These plants look a little spindly.
They don’t grow for potency..they grow what ever cultivar “works best” in their environment.
Ph is number one in my book lol
pH to 6, yep.
Apera PH and EC instruments or Bluelab if you go commercial. No other brands work as good or have good reliable brandness, and good support
If you go no till organic living soil you don't always need to ph this last harvest I got over a pound off 4 indoor plants in 5 gallons in a 3x3 tent in my apartment not phing at all except using distilled water during the germination and early seedling stage vs 6 ounces from 4 plants same setup last run adjusting the 7 to 7.5 ph down to 6. I bet it's super important for non organic though.
@@lizardjoel what kind of mix did you run?
@@jamesduffy9826 custom blend of every type of organic dry ammendment people online recommended for an organic living soil mix that Merrifield garden center carried plus 1/3 of one run used coasts of maine plus some pearlite probably 15% or so
Ph doesn't matter 🤷♂️
2:24 😎
The very FIRST mistake is growing with bottled nutes. Ewww
Bottled nutes are the same as organic nutes minus the middle man of microbes breaking it down. Plants don't absorb worm castings and bat guano. Plants absorb nitrogen urea and potassium chlorate. The shit in the bottles already to go. You guys are silly when you clearly don't understand science
Dude you never gave me a good number for humidity you talked about humidity but no numbers... 🤷
40-60 ideal.
Check out VPD.
Ideal humidity to promote plant growth and general health is different at different Temps.
Look at the Pulse chart available free on the site.
Attention to VPD has improved the density of my flower.
I agree! No figures, using a common vpd scale, rh would be extreme at his 85 degree recommendation.
Stoner growers always forget to shut the water off!!! 😂 I put my finger in it and wait with a chair now
There is a specific RH range you need to be in so the stomata’s stay open and your plant isn’t wasting light. It’s called vapor pressure deficit. Charts and calculators available online. It’s not get rid of humidity like this guy has implied.
they say 20% run off?......who is they and I disagree....mother nature doesnt worry about run off...be well
Mother nature works on a organic nutrient system not salt based nutrients
I never make sure I get run off with my organic and never have issues but my salt based feeding if I don't get that 20% runoff I definitely get issues with nutrient build up. Throwing pH off and nutrient imbalance
Mother Nature has all that handled and a lot more square footage than a 2 gallon pot. 20 percent is industry standard
@@TrollHunterxXx no run off for me...waist of 20%
@@arkinner no run off.....waist of 20%
@@foe20abnormal59 so what do you do?
👀
First mistake is growing indoor under artificial lights.. disgusting.
It’s called “controlling your environment”
You could learn something
Disgusting 😂🤣🤣😂🤣 someone give this guy the troll award of the year….disgusting lights…🤣🤣🤣😂
My first mistake was growing a sativa in a 48 inch tent.
Hydroponics people ignore all this. Flood and drain six times a day. you get all the oxygen you need off of your bubble maker haha
Go organic. Product is so much better!
@@johnnysanchez4996 As long as you arent using (now toxic heavy metal filled) guanos like bat and seabird guano. Believe me this is a huge issue people dont talk abot.. university of kentucky has a huge paper on heavy metals in bat guano, and seabird guano has been known toxic in the arctic for decades now (all because of human pollution from farming)
@@dertythegrower I use Worm Castings. Either way, I’ve used bottle nutrients in a DWC and organic dry amendment’s in soil and there’s a big difference.
@@johnnysanchez4996 organic is no different than high quality liquid nutrients. The organics brake down into the same compounds. With synthetic nutrients you just skip the brake down step.
@@ILmachiner Yea, I’ve ran them both I know the science. In my opinion organics produce better terpenes, a smoother smoke and a better high.
WTF is this dude smoking? Plants love high humidity.