Ballistols properties make it eventually form a protective layer. If you just spray it with water immediately after application, it actually mixes with the water and doesn’t offer much protection. I’ve found in practice it has really good protection with continued use, and has the properties you want like not gumming up and most importantly really preventing initial “stick” parts get. It really does a good job keeping everything moving as it should while not collecting dirt and offering sufficient protection with things that aren’t abused.
Jea but Ballistol is absulutely non toxic you can also use it on animals for example at dry claws in winter. I also use it in the kitchen. because it is also an "wundspray" how we say in germany, means that you can spray on it when you cut your finger for example and it is completely made from "weisöl" means, this is not bad for enviroment. Its a natureproduct.
Been using Breakfree CLP since my time in the Marine Corps Infantry in the 90's. I like the heavier viscosity PTFE lubrication and rust protection......For just straight bore cleaning, I like Hoppes #9.
I wonder how the non-aerosol Ballistol would have fared? It's quite a bit more viscous. This search for the best weapons cleaner and lube seems never-ending!
All these products are for different applications. WD-40 has proven itself on my boat used in salt water for getting things rusted broken loose more then once. Ballistol is great for cleaning/lubing my black powder guns. I can't use Break Free here as it gums with black powder fouling. Yes on my other smokeless powder guns Break Free works great. Also I did take one thing from this, it seems to be a damn fine rust preventative! I may have to use some on the boat to avoid using WD-40!
This type of Ballistol is the multi purpose one. You can even use it to clean wounds and or for skin care. So it is not perfect for preventing rust but even this task is done pretty well! It is the one for everything oil but as always... Multi purpose also means nothing will be done perfect but good enough.
And that's exactly what Ballistol is made for. The big advantage is that you can use it for pretty much everything and that it's food safe. It will be worse than specialized oils though.
I learned in my 21 years of Military Service that Break Free CLP is the way to go. We cleaned hundreds and hundreds of Military Grade weapons every year. We never used anything else. CLP Cleans, Lubricates and Protects and it's the only thing I have ever used on my personal weapons arsenal.
"Military" means nothing - just a synonym for "cheap, mass shit" (because it's budget money). Professionals prefer separate liquids - one for cleaning and one for lubing. And I agree with 'em: make liquid for one purpose is easier and possible to create highest quality. While "one-liquid-for-everything" (CLP) is ... for lazy guys maybe? :) Or for people who don't care so much about his equipment.
Great Review. Quick & to the point! Some people swear by Balistol but after buying my first bottle, it doesn’t work well on my firearms and didn’t prevent oxidation on my tools. Definitely the last bottle I buy..
Thanks for watching! I could get the Ballistol to work on burnt powder only by letting it soak for a while. The Hoppe's #9 works very quickly. The Breakfree CLP has a thick consistency that may work well on tools.
Japanese woodworkers, cutlery and sword makers use Camellia Oil from Japan to protect carbon steel tools and blades from rust. I wonder how it would compare to these products? $15.80 on Amazon - "KUROBARA 100% Pure Tsubaki Japanese Cutlery Knife Maintenance Camellia Oil (8.3 oz) Dispenser". Thanks for making this video. You and Chuck are always on point, and share a very clean work area (which I have never been able to achieve).
I use camelia oil on my Higonokami and on my GB Small Forest Axe, so far no stains or spots of rust. And I live in the Netherlands, where it's very humid all year round. It doesn't leave a sticky layer either, works on the axe handle too. I'll give Ballistol a try soon but camelia oil worked great for me so far. My other knives are mostly stainless so no need for treatment...
I am yet to see a single woodworking tool of high carbon steel that Ballistol protected. Maybe it protects in the long run, against deep rust. But all of my blades are covered in brown rust.
Thanks for watching. I am a fan of WD-40 for coating tools. You may want to try the Break-Free for long term storage. It has a thicker consistency than WD-40. I have been using it on my reloading press and on my garage door pulleys/followers with good results.
Great video test and I respect your conclusions. I use all three and Rem Oil as well and think they all do a good job. I like Ballistol because of it's non-toxicity but more because you can use it to oil the wood as well. I will continue to use all. Thanks,
Thanks for the experiment. Interesting. I would comment though that while you went to the effort of using gloves during the application of the three products to avoid contaminating them with the oils and amino acids from skin on your fingers, after you applied the ballistol, you had that product on your gloved fingers when loading up the Breakfree application, and then when you loaded up the WD40 application you had both the ballistol and break free on your fingers. That means the break free blank likely had some ballistol and break free on it and that the WD40 likely had all three products due to the contamination of manipulating the cloth patches with your fingers. I don't know if it is significant, but it could have had an effect on the outcome.
Thanks for watching! I used a new patch for each application. The amount of product on my fingers was negligible. This test is pretty simple - give it a try with your favorite CLP!
I'm new to kayak fishing (I'm saying that there's a good chance I'll be in the water even if I don't necessarily want to or have time to prepare to...) and want to have my polymer and stainless steel pistol in my vest's pocket. Saltwater fishing only. I think I can have the pistol in a ziplock inside the pocket. The "normal" gun oil (the orange bottle sold at Sports Academy) wouldn't be enough to clean and lubricate the gun after each fishing trip?
Thanks for watching. I think any CLP will perform well lubricating and protecting. If you shoot anything on your fishing trip, you may want to use Hoppes #9 to clean the barrel.
I’m kind of surprised that all 3 products allowed some rusting after a relatively short time. I guess my search for a good corrosion preventer must go on.
Thanks for watching! My test shows how corrosive salt water can be. The sweat from our skin can do a number on carbon steel. Not to mention your car on salt covered roads in the winter!
@@censusgary tri flow, saw a similar test but with like 30 different oils. tri flow was one that had practically no corrosion after like weeks of salt water. its cheap and meant for bike chains and has teflon in it. only con is its a skin irritant.
@357magdad so as I get it right - wd40 and break-free are not lubricants. they let's say something like preservatives? for this purpose - may I use any other break-free spray or only this brand on video?
Thanks for watching! The Breakfree and Ballistol are "all in one" cleaner lubricator protectors CLP. I've had good results using the bBeakfree as a lubricant. I compared them to WD-40 because just about everybody has used it. I have not used any other BreakFree product.
@@357magdad looks like your product of choice would be evaporust rust block. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be available in Canada or at least pretty difficult to find :/
WD-40 is nontoxic right? If I spray the bottom of my old aluminum boat that has JB Weld everywhere then rinse it off good when I get home would that be safe?
WOW. I thought that Ballistol would perform better QUESTION: What is the difference between the Break Free that comes in the White Bottle & the one that comes in the Black Bottle ?
I believe break free seasons onto metal surfaces when they heat up as well. In the military you could smell and see it cooking of as you fired a lot of rounds. After the metal was treated with this stuff by each troop to field that weapon over a 30 year period water would bead up on metal that you thought was completely clean and burned on powder would just wipe off with a rag. WD-40 was originally designed to protect thin stainless steel rocket propellant tanks and it did a great job but it was flammable back then, now it's not so I'm not sure the formula is this same.
A thought from a gunsmith friend. While good for water dispersion WD-40 has fish oil (?) in it that gets thicker over time and so it should not be used for final lubrication or on the trigger group. YMMV.
Interesting I use Ballistol because it’s nontoxic and also works on gun stock leather sheaths etc. I doubt if I will ever get that much salt water on my guns if any,
Thanks for watching! I did some further tests you may be interested in! th-cam.com/video/cqFg5h_3J_8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/kRnEmq-I6pc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching. In this video I show all of the steps so that others can repeat my tests on their own. I have also repeated this test in my video - CLP Showdown Part 2 - Salt Spray. th-cam.com/video/odCsvW3ukc8/w-d-xo.html If you try repeating my test and get different results please let me know.
I've been using Breakfree CLP for 35 years ..zero rust on any firearms..I believe it's because it goes into the pores of metal surfaces. The key to storing guns is leave it wet... then remove before range day... I bought some Balistol because of a popular YT channel... it sucks to use compared to Break free CLP...
Halo Lemon I like Hickok45, but Ballistol is a sponsor of his & provides it for free to him as well. If break free had beat them to the punch, hickok45 would be using that.
@Halo Lemon, check the video of Hickok45 cleaning his Colt AR. 28min video. He states (twice maybe 3 times) that he has been using Ballistol since 1999. He may or may not be sponsored by Ballistol, but he was using it before he had a TH-cam channel. He uses it because he likes it. It's a legit CLP. And my first choice as well.
Those 3 products, are completely different to compare them. WD-40 is designed for one job, and that's penetrate rust. It's versatility ends, on a couple more uses, like removing glue residue etc. Ballistol is do it all oil, it can lubricate and protect, where WD-40 isn't proper no matter if you think it ok, it isn't. Ballistol can has endless uses and it's closer to be an oil, than WD-40 ever was. 90% of the people use WD-40 completely wrong. Break free CLP on the other hand, is a specilized gun cleaner/protector, again a different product than the other 2. As a chemist, I can assure you, that those 3 are so similar, as Coke-Cola is to rain water... they are 100% designed, for different uses.
Thanks for watching! The "WD" in WD-40 stands for "water displacing". It was first used to prevent rust and corrosion on the outer skin of the Atlas Missile. Ballistol and Break Free are both CLPs - Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative. I like to use WD-40 for my corrosion comparison tests because it is readily available and just about everyone has experience with it. I think any CLP should be able to prevent corrosion at least as well as WD-40.
@@357magdad That's how people use them. I dont know if the marketing of the products, says such uses similar to what you describe. I have a degree in Chemistry ,since the 90's, I can't explain in a comment, but there other comments, like mine, on this video, who say the same thing as I do. These are completely different products, designed to do different things. It's like comparing Coka-Cola to rain water. both are liquid, but in the same time different. Ballistol, produces a products, closer to what a CLP is, but their Universal oil, is no where near, to either a CLP or the WD-40. Check also the comment of John Stark, if you can't rely on ones knowledge, first think he says, is what I say.
@@357magdad That's what I said, WD-40 is mainly for rust, it's not a lubricant. If you use it as such, as most people do, eventually you can destroy stuff, like the small parts on a door lock, wd-40 can "eat" little by little, those small parts a lock has inside and eventually damage the lock. Ballistol universal, is a multiuse oil, not just a clp. Clp is mainly for guns and offers way better rust protection, antidust etc. With all the respect, I think that a bit of "Ego" doesn't let you understand. Go do a better research, show the substances to a chemist and ask him. What do I or, the other people who say thse are completely different products, and most people make wrong use of these,what do we have to win? What do you win, if keep listening to your ego, instead of the truth?
@@greekveteran2715 bought Ballistol Gun-Cer as a muli-purpouse oil but I was wondering whether Gun-Cer would be as suitable as WD-40 for anti-rust long term storage. I understand that it's better suited for lubrication rather than long term rust prevention.
@@florinmoldovanu WD 40, shouldn't be used where small parts exist (like on keylocks, or inside a weapon mechanism. Ballistol and WD 40 are 2 completely different things. WD 4o, isn't even an oil, while Ballistol on glass and metal bottles, is closer to a general use oil. WD 40 should be used way less, than people use it, becasue that's it's nature. it can eventually damage small parts thus damage the whole mechanism on something... Ballistol will do the opposite, it will do good to any material. For long term storage, you should use either Break Free, or similar, Ballistol will work, but people don't know how to use it properly. Actually 95% don't understand, the huge differences and make wrong use of those products, as if those where the same products.
Thanks for watching! Break Free has a thicker consistency that probably makes it a good lubricant in addition to a good choice for corrosion protection.
I have subbed your channel. I have been watching ScoutCrafter, I like these videos restoring old tools. I have a few of my own to do, and I want to do videos showing how I do it. I have a scale modelling channel ( I build plastic scale cars mostly)but I did not want to mix the two together. Still thinking lol Vaughn
Thanks for subscribing! I try to mix my content up - sometimes gun oil tests, sometimes knife making, and lately tool restorations. The tool restorations seem to get the most views, but I get bored doing the same thing all the time!
Check out my review of the new MIL-SPEC Break Free!
th-cam.com/video/agvU7tm0uxc/w-d-xo.html
Ballistols properties make it eventually form a protective layer. If you just spray it with water immediately after application, it actually mixes with the water and doesn’t offer much protection. I’ve found in practice it has really good protection with continued use, and has the properties you want like not gumming up and most importantly really preventing initial “stick” parts get. It really does a good job keeping everything moving as it should while not collecting dirt and offering sufficient protection with things that aren’t abused.
Thanks for watching Travis! You might find these videos interesting:
th-cam.com/video/cqFg5h_3J_8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/4Hfg3uA89t8/w-d-xo.html
Jea but Ballistol is absulutely non toxic you can also use it on animals for example at dry claws in winter. I also use it in the kitchen.
because it is also an "wundspray" how we say in germany, means that you can spray on it when you cut your finger for example and it is completely made from "weisöl" means, this is not bad for enviroment. Its a natureproduct.
Thank you!
Been using Breakfree CLP since my time in the Marine Corps Infantry in the 90's. I like the heavier viscosity PTFE lubrication and rust protection......For just straight bore cleaning, I like Hoppes #9.
I wonder how the non-aerosol Ballistol would have fared? It's quite a bit more viscous. This search for the best weapons cleaner and lube seems never-ending!
TC-11 is back and lives up to is claims
@@tc-11corrosioninhibitor96 How environment friendly is TC-11?
Jordan
Her some did it with the fluid version and it did much better th-cam.com/video/xwlLc2DcmQ0/w-d-xo.html
All these products are for different applications. WD-40 has proven itself on my boat used in salt water for getting things rusted broken loose more then once.
Ballistol is great for cleaning/lubing my black powder guns. I can't use Break Free here as it gums with black powder fouling.
Yes on my other smokeless powder guns Break Free works great. Also I did take one thing from this, it seems to be a damn fine rust preventative! I may have to use some on the boat to avoid using WD-40!
I recently started using CLP for my firearms. I can see I made a good choice.
I like the thickness (viscosity?) of the BreakFree.
Because you spray your weapons with salt water every 24 hours?
I'm still using my Ballistoll
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink
@@trailwatcher5 ok boomer
This type of Ballistol is the multi purpose one.
You can even use it to clean wounds and or for skin care. So it is not perfect for preventing rust but even this task is done pretty well! It is the one for everything oil but as always... Multi purpose also means nothing will be done perfect but good enough.
I like ballistol because I can get it on my gun stock and just wipe it in
And that's exactly what Ballistol is made for.
The big advantage is that you can use it for pretty much everything and that it's food safe.
It will be worse than specialized oils though.
I learned in my 21 years of Military Service that Break Free CLP is the way to go. We cleaned hundreds and hundreds of Military Grade weapons every year. We never used anything else. CLP Cleans, Lubricates and Protects and it's the only thing I have ever used on my personal weapons arsenal.
"Military" means nothing - just a synonym for "cheap, mass shit" (because it's budget money). Professionals prefer separate liquids - one for cleaning and one for lubing. And I agree with 'em: make liquid for one purpose is easier and possible to create highest quality. While "one-liquid-for-everything" (CLP) is ... for lazy guys maybe? :) Or for people who don't care so much about his equipment.
@@daitedve1984 what do you use for long term storage rust prevention?
Great Review. Quick & to the point!
Some people swear by Balistol but after buying my first bottle, it doesn’t work well on my firearms and didn’t prevent oxidation on my tools. Definitely the last bottle I buy..
Thanks for watching! I could get the Ballistol to work on burnt powder only by letting it soak for a while. The Hoppe's #9 works very quickly. The Breakfree CLP has a thick consistency that may work well on tools.
Japanese woodworkers, cutlery and sword makers use Camellia Oil from Japan to protect carbon steel tools and blades from rust. I wonder how it would compare to these products? $15.80 on Amazon - "KUROBARA 100% Pure Tsubaki Japanese Cutlery Knife Maintenance Camellia Oil (8.3 oz) Dispenser".
Thanks for making this video. You and Chuck are always on point, and share a very clean work area (which I have never been able to achieve).
The camellia oil sound like interesting stuff. Looks like it is used for skin as well.
Lol I just saw a post about that stuff on Facebook and random rust prevention googling led me here
I use camelia oil on my Higonokami and on my GB Small Forest Axe, so far no stains or spots of rust. And I live in the Netherlands, where it's very humid all year round. It doesn't leave a sticky layer either, works on the axe handle too. I'll give Ballistol a try soon but camelia oil worked great for me so far. My other knives are mostly stainless so no need for treatment...
That untreated steel looks like my guns in North Florida after shooting corrosively primed ammo if I don't hose them out with water.
I am yet to see a single woodworking tool of high carbon steel that Ballistol protected. Maybe it protects in the long run, against deep rust. But all of my blades are covered in brown rust.
Thanks for watching. I am a fan of WD-40 for coating tools. You may want to try the Break-Free for long term storage. It has a thicker consistency than WD-40. I have been using it on my reloading press and on my garage door pulleys/followers with good results.
I'll just stick with "CorrosionX"
Great video test and I respect your conclusions. I use all three and Rem Oil as well and think they all do a good job. I like Ballistol because of it's non-toxicity but more because you can use it to oil the wood as well. I will continue to use all.
Thanks,
Thanks for watching! I have a Rem Oil review as well!
th-cam.com/video/f5zLxoE10FI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the experiment. Interesting. I would comment though that while you went to the effort of using gloves during the application of the three products to avoid contaminating them with the oils and amino acids from skin on your fingers, after you applied the ballistol, you had that product on your gloved fingers when loading up the Breakfree application, and then when you loaded up the WD40 application you had both the ballistol and break free on your fingers. That means the break free blank likely had some ballistol and break free on it and that the WD40 likely had all three products due to the contamination of manipulating the cloth patches with your fingers. I don't know if it is significant, but it could have had an effect on the outcome.
Thanks for watching! I used a new patch for each application. The amount of product on my fingers was negligible. This test is pretty simple - give it a try with your favorite CLP!
I'm new to kayak fishing (I'm saying that there's a good chance I'll be in the water even if I don't necessarily want to or have time to prepare to...) and want to have my polymer and stainless steel pistol in my vest's pocket.
Saltwater fishing only.
I think I can have the pistol in a ziplock inside the pocket.
The "normal" gun oil (the orange bottle sold at Sports Academy) wouldn't be enough to clean and lubricate the gun after each fishing trip?
Thanks for watching. I think any CLP will perform well lubricating and protecting. If you shoot anything on your fishing trip, you may want to use Hoppes #9 to clean the barrel.
I’m kind of surprised that all 3 products allowed some rusting after a relatively short time. I guess my search for a good corrosion preventer must go on.
Thanks for watching! My test shows how corrosive salt water can be. The sweat from our skin can do a number on carbon steel. Not to mention your car on salt covered roads in the winter!
357magdad : Luckily for me, here in the Rio Grande Valley, they don’t put salt on the roads (because there’s no ice here).
@@censusgary tri flow, saw a similar test but with like 30 different oils. tri flow was one that had practically no corrosion after like weeks of salt water. its cheap and meant for bike chains and has teflon in it. only con is its a skin irritant.
Great demo. I bought some clp not knowing it was that good.thanks
Thanks for watching! Breakfree has a thick consistency (compared to WD-40) that makes it good for lubrication and corrosion protection.
@357magdad so as I get it right - wd40 and break-free are not lubricants. they let's say something like preservatives? for this purpose - may I use any other break-free spray or only this brand on video?
Thanks for watching! The Breakfree and Ballistol are "all in one" cleaner lubricator protectors CLP. I've had good results using the bBeakfree as a lubricant. I compared them to WD-40 because just about everybody has used it. I have not used any other BreakFree product.
CLP....CLEANS....LUBRICATES....PROTECTS !! ITS RIGHT THERE IN THE NAME.
Good video brother. I've been recently converted (lol) to break free, works wonders on my CSA VZ-58.
Thanks for watching!
WD40 worked well too. I've been testing it for my rifle and I've been surprised how well it shoots after
Thanks for watching!
Corrosion X versus ACF 50 versus LPS-3 would be interesting.
Have you found anything that will lubricate but primarily prevent rust on hand tools that is good?
Check out my recent corrosion test!
th-cam.com/video/88lQp6ob1O4/w-d-xo.html
@@357magdad looks like your product of choice would be evaporust rust block. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be available in Canada or at least pretty difficult to find :/
WD-40 is nontoxic right? If I spray the bottom of my old aluminum boat that has JB Weld everywhere then rinse it off good when I get home would that be safe?
WD 40 IS NOT GOOD TO DRINK! MINERAL SPIRITS BASED.
WOW.
I thought that Ballistol would perform better
QUESTION: What is the difference between the Break Free that comes in the White Bottle & the one that comes in the Black Bottle ?
Thanks for watching! I just got some of the white label "MIL spec" Break Free and will be doing a review.
I like your videos! they tempt me to conduct my own research too
Go for it! Experimenting is fun!
I believe break free seasons onto metal surfaces when they heat up as well. In the military you could smell and see it cooking of as you fired a lot of rounds. After the metal was treated with this stuff by each troop to field that weapon over a 30 year period water would bead up on metal that you thought was completely clean and burned on powder would just wipe off with a rag. WD-40 was originally designed to protect thin stainless steel rocket propellant tanks and it did a great job but it was flammable back then, now it's not so I'm not sure the formula is this same.
Check out my video where I test several CLPs' ability to "season" the steel plate.
th-cam.com/video/kRnEmq-I6pc/w-d-xo.html
THE MAIN I NGREDIENT IN WD 4R0 IS MINERAL SPIRITS A VOLATILE ORGANIC BURNS EASILY WITH A WICK OF SORTS.
im on team wd-40 baby
Ballistol all the way.
i was on the fence about ordering ballistol, but after this test i no longer see the need to. i've already got a can of wd-40 in the garage.
A thought from a gunsmith friend. While good for water dispersion WD-40 has fish oil (?) in it that gets thicker over time and so it should not be used for final lubrication or on the trigger group. YMMV.
I like breakfree clp I use it on my glock 43x all the time and it seems to work great and I have a bottle of pro shot clp to
Thanks for watching! I recently did a review on the MIL SPEC Break Free - check it out!
th-cam.com/video/agvU7tm0uxc/w-d-xo.html
Interesting
I use Ballistol because it’s nontoxic and also works on gun stock leather sheaths etc.
I doubt if I will ever get that much salt water on my guns if any,
Thanks for watching! I used the salt water to simulate sweat from your hands.
@@357magdad But you touch not so many parts by hands! Slide, grips, magazines... anything else? Safety lock? :)
@@daitedve1984 Thanks for watching! I'm a revolver guy - there's lots of touching when handling a revolver.
I use the break free an ar on full throttle gets hot ballistol burns and smokes dramatic but unnecessary
Ballistol is just soluble oil. About $32 per gallon, any NAPA.
Ballistol universal oil leaves a film on with subsequence applications, so not a real test, add several applications on and see then.
Thanks for watching! I did some further tests you may be interested in!
th-cam.com/video/cqFg5h_3J_8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/kRnEmq-I6pc/w-d-xo.html
I wish you would have used a cotton swab or changed gloves to avoid cross contamination. Good test but could have been a great test.
Thanks for watching! I used a clean patch for each product.
You skewed ur test results by not changing ur gloves after each product because you got the products mixed up when u touched them.
Thanks for watching. In this video I show all of the steps so that others can repeat my tests on their own. I have also repeated this test in my video - CLP Showdown Part 2 - Salt Spray.
th-cam.com/video/odCsvW3ukc8/w-d-xo.html
If you try repeating my test and get different results please let me know.
Please try Stabil clp
WOW KINDA DEBUNKS THE BALLISTOL CLAIMS. BUMMER JUST BOUGHT SOME IN SPRAY BOTTLE!!
Nice work 👍
Thanks for watching!
I've been using Breakfree CLP for 35 years ..zero rust on any firearms..I believe it's because it goes into the pores of metal surfaces. The key to storing guns is leave it wet... then remove before range day... I bought some Balistol because of a popular YT channel... it sucks to use compared to Break free CLP...
Thanks for watching! You may be interested in my video where I test if CLP will "season" the metal.
th-cam.com/video/kRnEmq-I6pc/w-d-xo.html
Ballistol is an all in one, and is more than enough in most situations. I stand by Hickok45 here
Halo Lemon I like Hickok45, but Ballistol is a sponsor of his & provides it for free to him as well. If break free had beat them to the punch, hickok45 would be using that.
@@schreckfeb1981 Not true, Hickok has said many times that he has used ballistol since the 80s
@Halo Lemon, check the video of Hickok45 cleaning his Colt AR. 28min video. He states (twice maybe 3 times) that he has been using Ballistol since 1999. He may or may not be sponsored by Ballistol, but he was using it before he had a TH-cam channel. He uses it because he likes it. It's a legit CLP. And my first choice as well.
Those 3 products, are completely different to compare them. WD-40 is designed for one job, and that's penetrate rust. It's versatility ends, on a couple more uses, like removing glue residue etc. Ballistol is do it all oil, it can lubricate and protect, where WD-40 isn't proper no matter if you think it ok, it isn't. Ballistol can has endless uses and it's closer to be an oil, than WD-40 ever was. 90% of the people use WD-40 completely wrong. Break free CLP on the other hand, is a specilized gun cleaner/protector, again a different product than the other 2. As a chemist, I can assure you, that those 3 are so similar, as Coke-Cola is to rain water... they are 100% designed, for different uses.
Thanks for watching! The "WD" in WD-40 stands for "water displacing". It was first used to prevent rust and corrosion on the outer skin of the Atlas Missile. Ballistol and Break Free are both CLPs - Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative. I like to use WD-40 for my corrosion comparison tests because it is readily available and just about everyone has experience with it. I think any CLP should be able to prevent corrosion at least as well as WD-40.
@@357magdad That's how people use them. I dont know if the marketing of the products, says such uses similar to what you describe. I have a degree in Chemistry ,since the 90's, I can't explain in a comment, but there other comments, like mine, on this video, who say the same thing as I do. These are completely different products, designed to do different things. It's like comparing Coka-Cola to rain water. both are liquid, but in the same time different. Ballistol, produces a products, closer to what a CLP is, but their Universal oil, is no where near, to either a CLP or the WD-40. Check also the comment of John Stark, if you can't rely on ones knowledge, first think he says, is what I say.
@@357magdad That's what I said, WD-40 is mainly for rust, it's not a lubricant. If you use it as such, as most people do, eventually you can destroy stuff, like the small parts on a door lock, wd-40 can "eat" little by little, those small parts a lock has inside and eventually damage the lock. Ballistol universal, is a multiuse oil, not just a clp. Clp is mainly for guns and offers way better rust protection, antidust etc. With all the respect, I think that a bit of "Ego" doesn't let you understand. Go do a better research, show the substances to a chemist and ask him. What do I or, the other people who say thse are completely different products, and most people make wrong use of these,what do we have to win? What do you win, if keep listening to your ego, instead of the truth?
@@greekveteran2715 bought Ballistol Gun-Cer as a muli-purpouse oil but I was wondering whether Gun-Cer would be as suitable as WD-40 for anti-rust long term storage. I understand that it's better suited for lubrication rather than long term rust prevention.
@@florinmoldovanu WD 40, shouldn't be used where small parts exist (like on keylocks, or inside a weapon mechanism. Ballistol and WD 40 are 2 completely different things. WD 4o, isn't even an oil, while Ballistol on glass and metal bottles, is closer to a general use oil. WD 40 should be used way less, than people use it, becasue that's it's nature. it can eventually damage small parts thus damage the whole mechanism on something... Ballistol will do the opposite, it will do good to any material. For long term storage, you should use either Break Free, or similar, Ballistol will work, but people don't know how to use it properly. Actually 95% don't understand, the huge differences and make wrong use of those products, as if those where the same products.
I think ya should I applied two coats, letting it soak into the metal more then test
Break Free all the way for me.
Vaughn
Thanks for watching! Break Free has a thicker consistency that probably makes it a good lubricant in addition to a good choice for corrosion protection.
I have subbed your channel. I have been watching ScoutCrafter, I like these videos restoring old tools. I have a few of my own to do, and I want to do videos showing how I do it. I have a scale modelling channel ( I build plastic scale cars mostly)but I did not want to mix the two together. Still thinking lol
Vaughn
Thanks for subscribing! I try to mix my content up - sometimes gun oil tests, sometimes knife making, and lately tool restorations. The tool restorations seem to get the most views, but I get bored doing the same thing all the time!
Break Free CLP makes my skin itch.
I dont live on or near the ocean, so ill be ok.
Thanks for watching! I used salt water as a worst case scenario of a really sweaty hand coming in contact with the metal.
@@357magdad I see. You should do one with corrosive ammo residue.
Your sweaty hands are salty
All these products do different jobs, you can’t compare them.
Thanks for watching! Each of these products claims to protect against corrosion. That is what I tested.
In the video dont shake the sprays.
All these comments start with “I”. 😅