So interesting and fun to watch, this is by far the best conversion series on TH-cam right now. Really this series deserves a TH-cam prize. I'm so impressed by your extensive know-how, skill, attention to details, overall outlook on the project, and patience. I can't wait for the next episode. Cheers from Romania Greg :)
I am attempting my first conversion on a Vivaro and your videos are an absolute god send. They are easy to follow and you explain so well the reasons why we need to do things a certain way. Your info on insulation was just what I needed and your most recent about battens and the second vapour barrier really helpful.
Hello Paul, I think getting this part of your build right is key to having a sound foundation to work off. What you then do inside with furniture and cabinetry is where you bring in your own style and look.
There are so many van channels out there now. But I’m Glad you found me 😁 there is tons of useful information in this build series. I have arranged all the videos into one playlist. Hope you find it useful.
Hi Greg: another evening, another sit down and learn. Loving build series you explain things so well, theory, rationality, application, I wouldn't have thought, I'd say 90+% of any of this. Glad I met your community and channel. Big thumbs up from me for all your advice and guidance thus far. Cheers mate lovin it. Dave aka wackyswanderings 😊👍
What you are demonstrating here is absolutely important. I once made the mistake to fix my roof lining by putting the screws directly into the metal of those roof bars without those wooden battens (just to save 2cm of valuable height...): unless you use stainless steel screws these will rust AND for absence of a decent thermal barrier you will have condensating moisture on the roof lining just where those roof bars go. In freezing winter conditions this condensating moisture will also freeze to ice crystals when the van is left unused/unheated in the cold. And when the ice melts again you will even have some drops of water falling down where you most certainly don't want to have them... Well, you learn by your mistakes...
Great video,very helpful to my son and I who are currently converting a sprinter van.Learning all the time.Thankyou for taking the time to explain everything so well.
Nice one Greg. Your videos are definitely getting even slicker. Intro - main subject covered - recap - and teaser for next video(s). Excellent. Always really carefully explained with accompanying wide/close-up shots. Very enjoyable videos to watch and fully understand. Regards Mark in the UK.
Hello Marc, I've Ben tracking my stats and my average view time is about 6mins. So I'm consciously trying to be very concise with content and not waffle on, within the first 30secs you should know what's coming up and try to keep it factual but to the point. Really glad that is coming across and thank you as always for your support and fantastic feedback. Best wishes.
I've worked a bit with a management consultant good friend of mine, and over the years one picks things up. One of those things is, when making a presentation (to your underlings or bosses, anybody really), it's good to use the format: Tell them what you're going to tell them Tell them Tell them what you told them. Same format as the news for example, and massively handy to remember if you're asked at short notice to do a presentation. You pretty much did that, with the added teaser. It's a format that is known to work, and work well, which is probably why it's used all time in so many ways. It's natural, intuitive and people relate to it. So, well done again.. Your videos are secretly becoming the 1st video to watch out of a new crop each day.
There's so much useful information in your videos, Greg! Now I've seen a couple of them I'm going to go back to the beginning and watch them all. I'll be making notes too, for things to remember when I get my own van.
Excellent videos. I have been watching the all "Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van" series, plus some of "Workshop Build". You are talented to make things clear and understandable. Even to a French ! So, keep going, you will rapidly expand. I will chose and post one of your videos on my FB. Pretty sure you will get some attention on this side of the Channel. Merci et à bientôt.
Really enjoying your videos, can’t wait until the next one, a sweeping video shot at end of the video showing your work so far would be excellent , cheers
Thank you for another great video!! The pacing, detail, descriptions and views of what you are explaining are simply spot on. It must take a lot of work but please keep being as thorough and enjoying the entire process - it really shows.
Watched all your videos back to back! Cannot wait to see more of the sprinter build! You are a legend! Living the dream! Good luck to you and that van will outlive all of us lol! Very well made and thought out! Amazing! :)
Ha ha, got seriously side tracked by your dust extraction suggested videos!😂😂 Loving your channel, love the science behind the design solutions especially relating to moisture and insulation methods. Glad I found you.😊
We had a lot of fun building that cyclone system and it has worked a treat since then in the workshop. Thank you for giving such great feedback and hope you continue to enjoy the videos
Hello Rob, the good old British weather has hampered progress on the build. I certainly do not wish to be laying under the van doing plumbing in snow or rain. Obviously shooting video and editing takes up a lot of free time too. The build is taking me a lot longer to progress than I would have liked so do need to push it on a bit. I'm also learning and doing tons of research as some of this is new to me. Safe to say there is a lot that goes into building one of these vans. You progressed really fast with the roof works. What's next on your agenda?
At the moment having some issues interfacing with the Ford electrics, so instead of burying the Control Unit under the bed, I'm moving it to an overhead locker, for easy access. This means re-routing cables (again!) The floor is virtually finished, which has gone well. Had test run out yesterday and the van appears a lot quieter. I guess those sound deadening pads really do work. I was going to tackle the roof lining next, but after seeing your timely video, I'm going to build the bathroom cubicle, because I will have unhindered access to the ceiling and walls for sturdy securing. Like you I don't want any rattles! And yes, as I write this it's raining again. . .
Hallo Greg. First time reply although subscribed for sometime . Was planning to convert panel van for this years Le Mans 24. But that date is out. Will be converting van to your exacting standards. So much other rubbish about sound proof , insulation, vapour barriers out there. Now have clear idea. Thanks Greg. PS (still going to Le Mans but Glamping under canvas for the last time
I do wish I could find the stick pins you used. The only thing I can find are stick pins using nails which can't be bent, but must be cut off instead. This means that, should I ever need to remove the insulation, it will be nearly impossible as the pin will have been cut to be even with the locking washer. I'm in the US, but I can't locate the item you used in the UK ebay either. I love your videos, conversion, travel etc. Well done.
Hello Judy, this link should work ok for you. Self Adhesive Insulation Stick Pins rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575265109&campid=5338027957&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2380057.m570.l1311.R4.TR10.TRC2.A0.H1.Xstick%2Bpins.TRS0%26_nkw%3Dstick%2Bpins%2Binsulation%26_sacat%3D0
Thank you. Sadly, it appears all of these also use regular 10 penny nails which are quite difficult to hammer over. You described the pins as soft and easy to hammer over. It would be lovely if I could find the same. I'll keep looking. Thank you. You have produced the only educational and meticulous van conversion videos on youtube. I envy your abilities. It appears you don't sleep, as well.
How do you keep vapor barrier between fan and wooden frame you made for the fan? There is little gap between fan and garnish trim ring where vapor could get to internals of the fan and then from there to the wooden frame... Most probably unlikely, but i'm thinking to foil tape the inside of the frame...
Looks nice! I ran my battens front to back instead of side to side. I can put up a 4x8 sheet of paneling and my spacing is narrower so the edge of the paneling lands on something. Im building a Chevy express so it has some differences.
I ended up with one joint width ways about 2 ft from the back. A 4x8 sheet fits almost perfectly in a chevy express on the walls and ceiling. That sounds interesting ill keep watching and see how it turns out.
Love your videos, learn so much, really thorough. Could I ask a cheeky question, please, understand if you don't want to answer...Do you think a Sprinter Luton type box van is a viable conversion option, we sort of have this in our sights, my beloved is 6'4'' and we will be living full time in it, currently have a Sprinter MWB, sadly invaded by the demon rust. My main concern in the box van is the fibre glass roofing supporting solar panels and fans. Once again , thanks for all your wisdom.
Hi Greg, thanks for all your help on van converting. You are a true gem! We realised we have screwed the ceiling cladding into both the roof battens and metal of the van stupidly, and it is of course condensating. If we remove the screws and put smaller ones in that just go through the roof batten will this solve the problem or do we need to drill new holes? Thanks
Smaller screws that only contact the wood should be enough to raise their temperature above the dew point. Skirt a small bit of silicone in the screw hole first that will also act as an insulator. 👍🏼😃
Hi Greg great video as always would you mind telling us what thickness you used for the roof battens and the roof ply please I don’t have a table saw so will have to manually cut them using track and circular ? Thank you!
I am so glad that you video your build and explain like to idiot like me. Who don't know so much about it. I just find a van what I gonna do insulation. I live near artic circle so maybe I double the floor and use uretine that yellow foam to any cracks. Anyway keep up your videos
brilliant videos Greg. Just a quick question,do you silver bubble wrap whole ceiling including over roof battens ? can't seem to find a video showing this.
I foil taped over my battens onto the foil of the PIR slab but running double bubble foil over everything would be far better. Don’t forget to foil line any cutouts for lights etc and tape all joins
Great video as usual! I just have to point out one small detail. When working with any stationery machinery that is cutting, drilling, turning etc please don't use gloves. The glove might get cought and will pull your hand in to the spinning tool making it much worse. Stay safe!
Hi Greg, can you advise on screw size please? I see No. 8 or No. 4's online? Also what length for 9mm ply to get enough bite into the metal struts? Thanks for the great video's info!
Sorry for the late answer I miss the odd comment 🥴 I would go for no 8 and 25-32mm long self drilling but not the ones with little wings as they don’t work in thin metal.
Hi Greg, thank you so much for the wonderful series, it’s been so informative especially regarding wether to add a vapor barrier. I do have a question, I’m getting into the paneling phase and wanted to add another layer of insulation, what would be better: a layer of mineral wool between the paneling and vapor barrier or reflectics since I’ll have about a 1 inch space of air between the paneling and the vapor barrier? Thanks!
Did you already had some holes in the ribs of the van? Or was it possible to just screw them in the metal of the ceiling because of the self drilling screw?
Good Afternoon Greg would insulation on the roof of the van be more efficient than inside the ceiling? I'm a commercial roofer and considering making my sprinter roof profile more flat to accommodate solar panels etc. I could recess the panels/ fans etc inside the TPO covered iso. Dumb idea? Every penetration could be professionally flashed onto the roof surface. Would solar panels not do well surrounded by 1"-2" of iso?
A layer of insulation on the outside would make the roof warmer and less likely to condensate internally. However I suspect that trying to adhere any covering to the exterior of a painted van for any length of time will be a major challenge. I still think the safer bet is to insulate the 2” depth between the internal roof beams. A lot easier solution with less pitfalls. Solar panels need good airflow all around them and especially underneath to keep them cool. The hotter they get the less efficient they are. Hope that helps 👍🏼😆
Having made such a good job of the insulation and sealing, it would be interesting to borrow a thermal imaging camera , put a heat source inside the van on a cold day and go outside (and upstairs to check the roof) and check for hot spots. It might just reveal an oversight and if it doesn't it will give you a great sense of satisfaction.
Hi Tony, we have a thermal imaging camera at work. I will see if I can borrow it for a weekend. The obvious leaks will be around door seals and the single glazing. Will be fun to see though. Great idea!
Greg Virgoe can I ask you see how much your phone reception dips when inside too? You've built a bit of a mobile Faraday cage there :) (Obviously the signal will be a subjective result as the bars on a phone don't actually mean an awful lot but I'm curious to know.)
Just to clarify. Is the sole purpose of the battens for prevention of moisture/ Not to have a continuous line with the screws from the ceiling panels to the ribs? This is why you don't just screw the ceiling panels directly to the ribs ya?
Hi Greg, big fan of your build series. I plan to follow your techniques when I go to build my van. I'm curious about the use of self tapping screws to drill into the metal of the van. I know other van builders try to minimize drilling into the metal as much as possible in order to prevent rust. Is there a reason why you don't use the riv nuts to secure battens to the ribs of the van? Do you see any potential future issues with drilling into the metal like you are doing, because frankly if not that seems like a much quicker way of going about it.
I would use self-drilling stainless steel screws, the screw will not rust and it will plug its own hole. Any time you cut a hole for fans or external plugs etc always treat the raw metal edges.
Hey, great vid, at @5:58 where you show up inside the light, where is the light coming from, LED or the SKY? Also, how far do you take that foil taoe up? And how do you make sure it's 100% sealed? Nice one!
Hi, that the reflection off the lighting rig on my camera, I only cut halfway into the Kingspan board and foil taped everything completely even around the cable.
Hi Greg, just wondering if there is a reason why people put wooden battens or aluminium strips across the ceiling ribs. If the ribs are flat enough and dont have lots of holes is it not better to put the ceiling straight to ribs?
Ever since I stumbled across this amazing and ancient tool, I've been sure it would be invaluable when dealing with the irregular shapes in a van. And especially so when fitting all of the cabinetry. Have you ever used a ticking stick and if not, do you think it would be useful when fitting out a camper van?
Greg, I was thinking of going directly into the steel on my van fit out. Pre drilling a smaller hole and screw the boards for sides and roof straight into the steel, do you think they would hold?
Hi Greg...Really need help with when to instal the wiring, is this done before you do any insulation and vapour barrier or after between the cladding and the insulation? thanks
Hi Greg, I’m wanting to put tongue and groove on the ceiling of my van but really don’t want to see a load of screws. Any suggestions for being able to fix it up another way? Could I fix my batten to the roof ribs over a vapour barrier then maybe pin and glue my T&G? Any thought? Cheers! 👍
Use a brad nailer and nail through the tongue at a backwards angle of 45° so you can still slot over the next board but the brads will be concealed. A little Sikaflex on each batten will also help once that is cured they should be very secure.
@@GregVirgoe That’s great, cheers! Will a Brad nailer be ok only going into 12mm ply batten and does the sikafkex stick to the foil tape? Or should I put batten on top of vapour barrier? Ta!
@@TheAffrojutty I would vapour barrier first and batten on top the Sikaflex will do the bulk of the work once set the brads will hold it all in place till that goes off
Hi Greg, at 7.30 it looks like you've cut through the celotex to run the cables up to the boxes. Is that correct? If so did you, did you mean to do that or was it an after thought? Thanks.
Yes I carved a small channel for the cable. It was all foil taped and covered with the vapour barrier after cable was installed and taped around the hole for the cable too. 👍🏼😊
Greg, I’ve heard it’s not good to use foilbacked bubble wrap in your roof as it can trap condensation? I’m having trouble with my roof having condensation just now. Any suggestions?
@@Rhysowen5418 so you do need to make sure that it’s a completely sealed void by taping closed all the edges and seams together. It’s takes a little bit of work to seal up and holes with tape too but that will prevent moisture getting in there.
Hi Greg Watching your ceiling insulation what’s your thoughts on 25 mm as I need to try and keep height and you used 50 with Batton but with my shower tray and flooring it’s taking away needed height
Working on my first home-build after 13 years of living in an RV (still at the floor insulation stage). I'm putting all the cables and pipes in ducts where I can get at them and re-route them where possible. I was planning on using battens along the walls, floor and ceiling so that I could take a modular lego-brick approach where I could replace or change units anywhere in the van, especially since the bed is going to start off in the back but eventually go into the front which means everything else has to be movable. Thoughts about this approach?
It's an interesting idea to make things removable if you change your mind later on or you use the van for work and pleasure. In reality i'm not sure how often you would do that once you have a layout that works. Why not hire a few vans to try out which is what we did first?
@@GregVirgoe The main thing is that I'm on a very limited budget and there are things that I have to do right now and things that I want to do later which will involve moving the bed from the back to the front and rearranging. Then there's the wet room... Good idea to try out the vans but I had to wing it, spending months putting in low bids until I got lucky so I'm stuck with what I got. Good condition, but the Renault Master is just a little too narrow to comfortably sleep width-wise.
Hi... have you put kingspan over the wool in the sides of the van aswel? Or just in the parts that you haven’t put wool in? If so why didn’t you just use the wool in the awkward parts and kingspan in the big parts for most of the sides? X
All looks amazing work indeed 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟 may I ask from inside of the roof Looking up from inside you have corrugation in the roof truck roof panel when you put the foam insolation up do you fill these gaps first ? I'm just thinking the air gap in between the corrugations of the roof could make the roof sweat from inside I am Just about to start my LWB 4x4 sprinter and I'm trying to make my mind up about this gap in the corrugation of the roof Best wishes of safe travels
REally finding th videos helpful Looking at the video, did you 25mm self drilling screws? I am thinking of running my condiut throught the rib too, so i guess its just a case of being careful not to pierce the condiut. thanks Greg
Hey Greg, Really appreciate all the tips! I fully understand how you've installed the insulation kingspan board and battens then foil taped. for the next step you cover the entire ceiling with foil roll. how did you go about attaching it to the ceiling ? Thanks :)
Hi Greg, in which video can i see how you put up the actual finishing vapour barrier (ceiling to walls to floor)? Do you have a video on that? I am kind of left blind on that point. Thanks for your help. Great series, thank you for sharing :-)
Once I had all the insulation installed I used some Trim fix adhesive to secure the foil bubble wrap. It was so easy to put on with that. Then lastly went over every joint with foil tape to seal everything. Hope that helps you 😊
I'm wondering, you mentioned you dint screw right through the timber when apply the finished roof, to save your vapour barrier. Is this a big problem and why? As you said you plug the hole with the screws. Im about to undertake this task and I'm worried short screws not reaching the metal could brake away from the ply or just not be secure in the event of a crash or whatever.
Hi Greg loving your build series ive just one question regarding the wood your using for your build do you treat it with anything that prevents mould moisture etc . . and if so what would you recommend cheers
As always, a great video! You answer some of the things I've been thinking about all the time. Keep up the good work! :) Got one question for you though: Did you use the stick pins for your wall insulation just like you did for the ceiling? If so, did you have to carve a hole for the stick pins to reach through the Kingspan? I'd like to know how you dealed with the 20mm thick, 150mm wide "battens" or "ribs" that in the middle of the "window" area since they are in the way of making the Kingspan sit snug up against the rest of the "window" area. Hope you get what I'm saying. Thanks a million for all the great videos!
Hello, yes I understand perfectly and I did use the stick pins. I placed them on the ribs, high point, 3 on each, top middle and bottom. The kingspan sat on the inner skin and would have been about 10mm max clear of the outer skin. I did spend a lot of time carving it to the best fit possible. Then foil taping the small gap between the panel and side wall. I’ll shoot some video tomorrow before everything gets panelled. The stick pin bases are very pliable so you can mould them to the odd shape of the ribs. Just make sure they all stick out level and square before pushing on your board. In hindsight I should have got longer pins but these are still doing a great job. Thanks
Maybe I can place the pins on the flat areas and carve out 20mm deep "channels" in the Kingspan where the ribs go. That would make a snug fit, and I wont have to mould the base of the pins.. hmm.. Anyway you got me thinking in new ways, thanks a lot!
Hey Greg, greetings from Germany, I've been really enjoying your videos, they are super informative. As I am designing my own van right now I wanted to ask what the final height (in the middle and on the sidewalls) and width (at the top and at the bottom) of the van will be after putting in the insolation, vapor barriers, bubblewrap, playwood battens, ceiling, new floor and walls? I wonder if all those things take away a lot space for the actual furniture? :)
Hello, The van measures 1.93m high in the middle, 1.9m at the edge it measures 1.75m wide at the widest point and 1.45m at the roof level. I have lost 15mm on the roof, 40mm on the floor and only 10mm on the walls.
Hi Greg I am just about to start my Peugeot boxer L4 think what you have said and done is my path but wondering what fridge are out there would like a tall one any idea Thanks peter
Peter Ellis if you want to be off grid for long periods of time don’t be tempted to go too big on your fridge as it’s the one thing that will be on all the time and use the most electric. Even our small 50litre compressor fridge we can get a weeks shopping into. A 3 way fridge won’t run well on 12v and will use a lot of gas. Go for a decent 12v compressor fridge. They are a bit expensive but work well.
Greg Virgoe Sorry Greg peter again can I pick you brain on where to have a fixed bed or two seating area that converts to a bed unfortunately we can decide which way to go what benefit have you found with your Regards
Hi Peter, not having to make up the bed every night is a huge bonus. Plus Lou can have a lie in and I can still get up make a cuppa and work without disturbing her
Hi Greg, I was wondering about the weight distribution of your sprinter van. I am not sure what the maximum weight your van will carry is, but it will a consideration to people with certain driver’s licenses. As I have mentioned in a previous post, one day I would like to convert a van and would like to know more about weight distribution, is the vans standard suspension good enough and how will weight distribution affect the van handling. Will you be weighing the van at each axle? Is this something you have to do before you can register your van as a camper / motorhome? Really enjoy watching your videos!
Hi Mark, my van has a max total weight of 3.5T so I'm being very careful to choose materials and keep the build on the lightweight side. I will, of course, have to weigh the vehicle to know I have achieved the weight limit or it will be illegal to drive it.
Hi Greg, this is a vapour barrier question. But it applies to the whole van. I’ve seen from another van build TH-camr that they do the vapour barrier then put the battons for the walls up after. My question is can I put my walls battons up first then vapour barrier over the top? This to me just seems a lot easier. Any help will be hugely appreciated 🙏🙏
I didn't insulate in the ribs, I used a couple of them for pulling kopex cable ways into. The air gap gives a very small thermal resistance and the wood is a good insulator. Plus I'm wrapping the whole roof in Reflectix before applying my plywood headliner.
Hey Greg, really helpful videos as always! Do you think you could use 9mm ply batons for the roof? Then short screws for 8mm cladding. Trying to save height as much as possible with all roof parts
Hi Greg, love your videos. How many kingspan boards did you use on the sprinter? Mines the same model and I'm just pricing up. Thank you so much for your detailed vids!!! Kudos 👌
Hi Greg, excellent vids as usual 👌what size screws did you used to hold ply to ribs and are they stainless, also I have some aluminium multi foil barrier I was thinking of using, can you thing of any pros or cons to using it instead of reflectics, also was the ply you used for rib battens marine ply?? ATB Shane
So interesting and fun to watch, this is by far the best conversion series on TH-cam right now. Really this series deserves a TH-cam prize. I'm so impressed by your extensive know-how, skill, attention to details, overall outlook on the project, and patience. I can't wait for the next episode. Cheers from Romania Greg :)
I am attempting my first conversion on a Vivaro and your videos are an absolute god send. They are easy to follow and you explain so well the reasons why we need to do things a certain way. Your info on insulation was just what I needed and your most recent about battens and the second vapour barrier really helpful.
Hello Paul, I think getting this part of your build right is key to having a sound foundation to work off. What you then do inside with furniture and cabinetry is where you bring in your own style and look.
Thanks Greg. We spent hours cleaning the inside of the van walls yesterday and will be starting the insulation stage tomorrow.
My god! How did I not cotton-on to you before! Bloody great to watch mate, thank you! *from AUSTRALIA 🇦🇺
There are so many van channels out there now. But I’m Glad you found me 😁 there is tons of useful information in this build series. I have arranged all the videos into one playlist. Hope you find it useful.
Thoroughness makes all the difference I reckon Greg. Can't wait for the next installment - building the furniture.
I'm going the extra mile but I know it will pay dividends with the end result. Thanks Ben
Hi Greg: another evening, another sit down and learn. Loving build series you explain things so well, theory, rationality, application, I wouldn't have thought, I'd say 90+% of any of this. Glad I met your community and channel. Big thumbs up from me for all your advice and guidance thus far. Cheers mate lovin it. Dave aka wackyswanderings 😊👍
Your videos are amazing in depth and very clear. Thanks for all you do for the community.
What you are demonstrating here is absolutely important. I once made the mistake to fix my roof lining by putting the screws directly into the metal of those roof bars without those wooden battens (just to save 2cm of valuable height...): unless you use stainless steel screws these will rust AND for absence of a decent thermal barrier you will have condensating moisture on the roof lining just where those roof bars go. In freezing winter conditions this condensating moisture will also freeze to ice crystals when the van is left unused/unheated in the cold. And when the ice melts again you will even have some drops of water falling down where you most certainly don't want to have them... Well, you learn by your mistakes...
Great video,very helpful to my son and I who are currently converting a sprinter van.Learning all the time.Thankyou for taking the time to explain everything so well.
great explanation about the insulation and the drill screws, as usual a great tutorial.
Thank you Barry
Nice one Greg. Your videos are definitely getting even slicker.
Intro - main subject covered - recap - and teaser for next video(s). Excellent.
Always really carefully explained with accompanying wide/close-up shots. Very enjoyable videos to watch and fully understand.
Regards Mark in the UK.
Hello Marc, I've Ben tracking my stats and my average view time is about 6mins. So I'm consciously trying to be very concise with content and not waffle on, within the first 30secs you should know what's coming up and try to keep it factual but to the point. Really glad that is coming across and thank you as always for your support and fantastic feedback. Best wishes.
I've worked a bit with a management consultant good friend of mine, and over the years one picks things up. One of those things is, when making a presentation (to your underlings or bosses, anybody really), it's good to use the format:
Tell them what you're going to tell them
Tell them
Tell them what you told them.
Same format as the news for example, and massively handy to remember if you're asked at short notice to do a presentation.
You pretty much did that, with the added teaser. It's a format that is known to work, and work well, which is probably why it's used all time in so many ways. It's natural, intuitive and people relate to it. So, well done again.. Your videos are secretly becoming the 1st video to watch out of a new crop each day.
There's so much useful information in your videos, Greg! Now I've seen a couple of them I'm going to go back to the beginning and watch them all. I'll be making notes too, for things to remember when I get my own van.
That's great, they will be here for future reference.
Man you make it look so simple, Love your work
Thank you 🙏🏼
As always, great video explaining the overall theory and also the little tips and tricks that make the job easier.
Thank you Jay
I wish I had your no how ,just started 1st build.thanks your videos are very good .
There are lots of useful videos here so I hope they help you with your build. Cheers 🍻😃
Excellent videos. I have been watching the all "Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van" series, plus some of "Workshop Build".
You are talented to make things clear and understandable. Even to a French !
So, keep going, you will rapidly expand. I will chose and post one of your videos on my FB. Pretty sure you will get some attention on this side of the Channel. Merci et à bientôt.
Merci beaucoup Monsieur
😃
You're welcome !
Really enjoying your videos, can’t wait until the next one, a sweeping video shot at end of the video showing your work so far would be excellent , cheers
Not a bad idea, a sort of halfway van mini tour :)
Thank you for another great video!! The pacing, detail, descriptions and views of what you are explaining are simply spot on. It must take a lot of work but please keep being as thorough and enjoying the entire process - it really shows.
Thank you for your appreciation.
I spend roughly 1/3 building, 1/3 filming and 1/3 editing and social media.
Nice moisture barrier work.
Thank you 😊 did you see my ice bucket video?? 👍🏼
Gutted, I went looking for the next installment and realised the date on this, excellent series.
Sorry Paul, have you watched all the others up to here?
Wooooo next episodes are going to be so good!! I'm glad all your parts have finally turned up!
Thank you Sam, make sure you are subbed :D
Don't worry i've belled it as well
;p
You know it makes sense 😉 lol
Grag, many thanks, I've already used some of your tips on my build, and again another valuable watch. I think I owe you some beer!
Beer is something I can always use, :)
Glad they were useful to you
Watched all your videos back to back! Cannot wait to see more of the sprinter build! You are a legend! Living the dream! Good luck to you and that van will outlive all of us lol! Very well made and thought out! Amazing! :)
Thank you very much Matthew
Some of the best DIY van videos on the Web. I've learned a lot watching your videos.
Thank you very much
Cheers Greg! What a legend.
its coming along nicely Greg. looking forward to the next one.
Thank you Nell, so much wiring!
Purchased items have not got enough cable,
so having to make longer cables myself.
As always Greg your ideas & work second to none! Really enjoying watching your productions
Really nice of you to say so, many thanks
Ha ha, got seriously side tracked by your dust extraction suggested videos!😂😂
Loving your channel, love the science behind the design solutions especially relating to moisture and insulation methods.
Glad I found you.😊
We had a lot of fun building that cyclone system and it has worked a treat since then in the workshop.
Thank you for giving such great feedback and hope you continue to enjoy the videos
Really enjoying your videos Greg, quality production, clearly explained and well planned. Looking forward to the next one!
Many thanks Chris
Although I'm way behind you, your videos are helping me so much in my 'how on earth do I do that moments' :-)
It's funny. I thought that I'd be in the same boat as you, but I ended up passing Greg a long time ago. Now I just learn all of my mistakes!
Hello Rob, the good old British weather has hampered progress on the build. I certainly do not wish to be laying under the van doing plumbing in snow or rain. Obviously shooting video and editing takes up a lot of free time too. The build is taking me a lot longer to progress than I would have liked so do need to push it on a bit. I'm also learning and doing tons of research as some of this is new to me. Safe to say there is a lot that goes into building one of these vans. You progressed really fast with the roof works. What's next on your agenda?
At the moment having some issues interfacing with the Ford electrics, so instead of burying the Control Unit under the bed, I'm moving it to an overhead locker, for easy access. This means re-routing cables (again!) The floor is virtually finished, which has gone well. Had test run out yesterday and the van appears a lot quieter. I guess those sound deadening pads really do work.
I was going to tackle the roof lining next, but after seeing your timely video, I'm going to build the bathroom cubicle, because I will have unhindered access to the ceiling and walls for sturdy securing. Like you I don't want any rattles! And yes, as I write this it's raining again. . .
I think I’m going to move in once this has finished....your doing an excellent job here Greg, well done my friend 🏆👍🏼😊
There’s space on the bench seat bed Marc..lol
Greg Virgoe 😂😂 yeah I know, I’m going to see it built!!… 😉👍🏼😊
Very clear professional instructions..thanks
Hallo Greg. First time reply although subscribed for sometime . Was planning to convert panel van for this years Le Mans 24. But that date is out. Will be converting van to your exacting standards. So much other rubbish about sound proof , insulation, vapour barriers out there. Now have clear idea. Thanks Greg. PS (still going to Le Mans but Glamping under canvas for the last time
Next year will be in your self-build camper van, best wishes
Such a quality build. Excellent tutorial. Really loving it. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much
I do wish I could find the stick pins you used. The only thing I can find are stick pins using nails which can't be bent, but must be cut off instead. This means that, should I ever need to remove the insulation, it will be nearly impossible as the pin will have been cut to be even with the locking washer. I'm in the US, but I can't locate the item you used in the UK ebay either. I love your videos, conversion, travel etc. Well done.
Hello Judy, this link should work ok for you.
Self Adhesive Insulation Stick Pins
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5575265109&campid=5338027957&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2380057.m570.l1311.R4.TR10.TRC2.A0.H1.Xstick%2Bpins.TRS0%26_nkw%3Dstick%2Bpins%2Binsulation%26_sacat%3D0
Thank you. Sadly, it appears all of these also use regular 10 penny nails which are quite difficult to hammer over. You described the pins as soft and easy to hammer over. It would be lovely if I could find the same. I'll keep looking. Thank you. You have produced the only educational and meticulous van conversion videos on youtube. I envy your abilities. It appears you don't sleep, as well.
How do you keep vapor barrier between fan and wooden frame you made for the fan? There is little gap between fan and garnish trim ring where vapor could get to internals of the fan and then from there to the wooden frame... Most probably unlikely, but i'm thinking to foil tape the inside of the frame...
Yes, exactly you can foil tape over the wood frame to seal and possible gaps.
great job, have really enjoyed watching each part
Cheers John, hope you continue to enjoy the rest
Great video! Can't wait to see the next one! Thank you!
You are welcome, thank you
Love the brown work coat, reminds of my metalwork teacher in school many many moons ago.
Looks nice! I ran my battens front to back instead of side to side. I can put up a 4x8 sheet of paneling and my spacing is narrower so the edge of the paneling lands on something. Im building a Chevy express so it has some differences.
Did you end up with a longitudinal join in the roof?
I chose to go this way to only have joints width ways.
I ended up with one joint width ways about 2 ft from the back. A 4x8 sheet fits almost perfectly in a chevy express on the walls and ceiling.
That sounds interesting ill keep watching and see how it turns out.
Hiya Mate ,
Doing a Grand work on your Van Greg please keep up the gr8t your doing Mate :-)
Thank you Malte
And here I am waiting for you to install some batteries in the ceiling!
My eyesight isn’t what it used to be either Roger, they tell me it’s my age lol
Well good Greg, very informative videos!
Thank you Ross
Love your videos, learn so much, really thorough. Could I ask a cheeky question, please, understand if you don't want to answer...Do you think a Sprinter Luton type box van is a viable conversion option, we sort of have this in our sights, my beloved is 6'4'' and we will be living full time in it, currently have a Sprinter MWB, sadly invaded by the demon rust. My main concern in the box van is the fibre glass roofing supporting solar panels and fans. Once again , thanks for all your wisdom.
Amazing job!
Thank you 👍🏼😃
Hi Greg, thanks for all your help on van converting. You are a true gem! We realised we have screwed the ceiling cladding into both the roof battens and metal of the van stupidly, and it is of course condensating. If we remove the screws and put smaller ones in that just go through the roof batten will this solve the problem or do we need to drill new holes? Thanks
Smaller screws that only contact the wood should be enough to raise their temperature above the dew point. Skirt a small bit of silicone in the screw hole first that will also act as an insulator. 👍🏼😃
Use the same No screw just shorter. So it’s the same width them won’t be lose in the hole
Hi Greg great video as always would you mind telling us what thickness you used for the roof battens and the roof ply please I don’t have a table saw so will have to manually cut them using track and circular ? Thank you!
Doing all this today all I can say is, wish you were here 👍✌
Hi Greg I totally love your videos as I'm about to start on my
L4h2 boxer. I would like to ask how you fix pir insulation to the roof ?
I am so glad that you video your build and explain like to idiot like me. Who don't know so much about it. I just find a van what I gonna do insulation. I live near artic circle so maybe I double the floor and use uretine that yellow foam to any cracks. Anyway keep up your videos
Excellent as usual.👍
Thank you Norman 😊
Theres only about 2 van builds on you tube that correctly understand, and execute moisture control / insulation. This is one of them
Hayden Warnock And the other one is?
Many thanks for your vote of support Hayden, very much appreciated.
brilliant videos Greg. Just a quick question,do you silver bubble wrap whole ceiling including over roof battens ? can't seem to find a video showing this.
I foil taped over my battens onto the foil of the PIR slab but running double bubble foil over everything would be far better. Don’t forget to foil line any cutouts for lights etc and tape all joins
Another Instalment to add to my Collection, Thanks Again "VanGuru"
Glad you liked it Mark, bookmark the series for future reference ;)
th-cam.com/play/PLLhAyWhGGbi6JLJBHePgsmR-jSbyC_RgO.html
Great video as usual! I just have to point out one small detail. When working with any stationery machinery that is cutting, drilling, turning etc please don't use gloves. The glove might get cought and will pull your hand in to the spinning tool making it much worse. Stay safe!
Hi Greg, can you advise on screw size please? I see No. 8 or No. 4's online? Also what length for 9mm ply to get enough bite into the metal struts? Thanks for the great video's info!
Sorry for the late answer I miss the odd comment 🥴 I would go for no 8 and 25-32mm long self drilling but not the ones with little wings as they don’t work in thin metal.
Hi Greg, thank you so much for the wonderful series, it’s been so informative especially regarding wether to add a vapor barrier.
I do have a question, I’m getting into the paneling phase and wanted to add another layer of insulation, what would be better: a layer of mineral wool between the paneling and vapor barrier or reflectics since I’ll have about a 1 inch space of air between the paneling and the vapor barrier? Thanks!
Did you already had some holes in the ribs of the van? Or was it possible to just screw them in the metal of the ceiling because of the self drilling screw?
The self drilling screws cut there own hole really easily.
Good Afternoon Greg would insulation on the roof of the van be more efficient than inside the ceiling? I'm a commercial roofer and considering making my sprinter roof profile more flat to accommodate solar panels etc. I could recess the panels/ fans etc inside the TPO covered iso. Dumb idea? Every penetration could be professionally flashed onto the roof surface. Would solar panels not do well surrounded by 1"-2" of iso?
A layer of insulation on the outside would make the roof warmer and less likely to condensate internally.
However I suspect that trying to adhere any covering to the exterior of a painted van for any length of time will be a major challenge. I still think the safer bet is to insulate the 2” depth between the internal roof beams. A lot easier solution with less pitfalls. Solar panels need good airflow all around them and especially underneath to keep them cool. The hotter they get the less efficient they are. Hope that helps 👍🏼😆
Having made such a good job of the insulation and sealing, it would be interesting to borrow a thermal imaging camera , put a heat source inside the van on a cold day and go outside (and upstairs to check the roof) and check for hot spots.
It might just reveal an oversight and if it doesn't it will give you a great sense of satisfaction.
Hi Tony, we have a thermal imaging camera at work. I will see if I can borrow it for a weekend. The obvious leaks will be around door seals and the single glazing. Will be fun to see though. Great idea!
Greg Virgoe can I ask you see how much your phone reception dips when inside too? You've built a bit of a mobile Faraday cage there :) (Obviously the signal will be a subjective result as the bars on a phone don't actually mean an awful lot but I'm curious to know.)
Just to clarify. Is the sole purpose of the battens for prevention of moisture/ Not to have a continuous line with the screws from the ceiling panels to the ribs? This is why you don't just screw the ceiling panels directly to the ribs ya?
Hi Greg, big fan of your build series. I plan to follow your techniques when I go to build my van. I'm curious about the use of self tapping screws to drill into the metal of the van. I know other van builders try to minimize drilling into the metal as much as possible in order to prevent rust. Is there a reason why you don't use the riv nuts to secure battens to the ribs of the van? Do you see any potential future issues with drilling into the metal like you are doing, because frankly if not that seems like a much quicker way of going about it.
I would use self-drilling stainless steel screws, the screw will not rust and it will plug its own hole.
Any time you cut a hole for fans or external plugs etc always treat the raw metal edges.
Hey, great vid, at @5:58 where you show up inside the light, where is the light coming from, LED or the SKY? Also, how far do you take that foil taoe up? And how do you make sure it's 100% sealed?
Nice one!
Hi, that the reflection off the lighting rig on my camera, I only cut halfway into the Kingspan board and foil taped everything completely even around the cable.
Ah, that's not a bad idea, cutting info the kingspan and running your cable through it then taping t up!
Hi Greg, Love your information videos. Class mate..🙂.question can I use that earth wool insulation in the middle panel part of the van????
Hi Greg, I’ve got a question, did you celotex all the walls as well? thanks for sharing.
Yes we did. This video shows it better
th-cam.com/video/6AdxcqU8Y6M/w-d-xo.html
Hi Greg, awesome video, very helpful. Just a question, what is the size of the screws you've used for the 12mm battens?
Hi Greg, just wondering if there is a reason why people put wooden battens or aluminium strips across the ceiling ribs. If the ribs are flat enough and dont have lots of holes is it not better to put the ceiling straight to ribs?
They are usually full of holes so a plain timber batten makes it easier.
Ever since I stumbled across this amazing and ancient tool, I've been sure it would be invaluable when dealing with the irregular shapes in a van. And especially so when fitting all of the cabinetry. Have you ever used a ticking stick and if not, do you think it would be useful when fitting out a camper van?
Its a pro job alright this would be a good van to buy after youve done it ha ha
The videos will serve as a really detailed owners manual. If I did ever sell it they would give the buyer a lot of confidence. Thanks Mike
Greg, I was thinking of going directly into the steel on my van fit out. Pre drilling a smaller hole and screw the boards for sides and roof straight into the steel, do you think they would hold?
You can screw it. The difference some adhesive makes is mind blowing. It does make the whole thing so much stronger.
@@GregVirgoe true, you have the grab of the adhesive.
Hi Greg...Really need help with when to instal the wiring, is this done before you do any insulation and vapour barrier or after between the cladding and the insulation? thanks
I have installed my wiring before doing insulation while the voids are empty and it’s easier to get conduits through.
Hi Greg, I’m wanting to put tongue and groove on the ceiling of my van but really don’t want to see a load of screws. Any suggestions for being able to fix it up another way? Could I fix my batten to the roof ribs over a vapour barrier then maybe pin and glue my T&G? Any thought? Cheers! 👍
Use a brad nailer and nail through the tongue at a backwards angle of 45° so you can still slot over the next board but the brads will be concealed. A little Sikaflex on each batten will also help once that is cured they should be very secure.
@@GregVirgoe That’s great, cheers! Will a Brad nailer be ok only going into 12mm ply batten and does the sikafkex stick to the foil tape? Or should I put batten on top of vapour barrier? Ta!
@@TheAffrojutty I would vapour barrier first and batten on top the Sikaflex will do the bulk of the work once set the brads will hold it all in place till that goes off
@@GregVirgoe Cheers! Much appreciated 👍
Hi Greg, at 7.30 it looks like you've cut through the celotex to run the cables up to the boxes. Is that correct? If so did you, did you mean to do that or was it an after thought? Thanks.
Yes I carved a small channel for the cable. It was all foil taped and covered with the vapour barrier after cable was installed and taped around the hole for the cable too. 👍🏼😊
Greg, I’ve heard it’s not good to use foilbacked bubble wrap in your roof as it can trap condensation? I’m having trouble with my roof having condensation just now. Any suggestions?
But did you install a vapour barrier over everything or not??
@@GregVirgoe I installed a vapour barrier over the roof insulation. (I used woolen insulation to keep the cost down as it’s just a tester van)
@@Rhysowen5418 so you do need to make sure that it’s a completely sealed void by taping closed all the edges and seams together. It’s takes a little bit of work to seal up and holes with tape too but that will prevent moisture getting in there.
@@GregVirgoe if I just removed the vapour barrier would this have the same effect? As inevitably moisture is likely to get in one way or another
Hi Greg
Watching your ceiling insulation what’s your thoughts on 25 mm as I need to try and keep height and you used 50 with Batton but with my shower tray and flooring it’s taking away needed height
If you need that height then yes do that but appreciate its half the thermal value so won’t be as good in winter or summer. 👍🏼😊
I can't wait Greg!
Working on my first home-build after 13 years of living in an RV (still at the floor insulation stage). I'm putting all the cables and pipes in ducts where I can get at them and re-route them where possible. I was planning on using battens along the walls, floor and ceiling so that I could take a modular lego-brick approach where I could replace or change units anywhere in the van, especially since the bed is going to start off in the back but eventually go into the front which means everything else has to be movable.
Thoughts about this approach?
It's an interesting idea to make things removable if you change your mind later on or you use the van for work and pleasure. In reality i'm not sure how often you would do that once you have a layout that works. Why not hire a few vans to try out which is what we did first?
@@GregVirgoe The main thing is that I'm on a very limited budget and there are things that I have to do right now and things that I want to do later which will involve moving the bed from the back to the front and rearranging. Then there's the wet room...
Good idea to try out the vans but I had to wing it, spending months putting in low bids until I got lucky so I'm stuck with what I got. Good condition, but the Renault Master is just a little too narrow to comfortably sleep width-wise.
What's your opinion on using 12mm soft plywood for the battens? A definitive no or a possible choice?
Hi... have you put kingspan over the wool in the sides of the van aswel? Or just in the parts that you haven’t put wool in? If so why didn’t you just use the wool in the awkward parts and kingspan in the big parts for most of the sides? X
Hello Cassie, what you describe is exactly what I have done, this video will show you better th-cam.com/video/DKy6WnFh368/w-d-xo.html
Greg Virgoe thank you! Be prepared to get harassed by me when I finally find a van 😁
Im finding it hard locating a suplier for the celotex spikes..could you put a link up Greg...ps loving your videos buddy...
Terry Marriott please use the link in the description of this video I’ve checked and it works ok th-cam.com/video/DKy6WnFh368/w-d-xo.html
All looks amazing work indeed
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
may I ask
from inside of the roof
Looking up from inside
you have corrugation in the roof truck roof panel
when you put the foam insolation up
do you fill these gaps first ?
I'm just thinking the air gap in between the corrugations of the roof
could make the roof sweat from inside
I am Just about to start my LWB 4x4 sprinter and I'm trying to make my mind up about this gap in the corrugation of the roof
Best wishes of safe travels
Love your series, addicted to watching. Do you screw your batens in the predrilled holes in the ribs or screw new holes ?
John Mason I screwed new holes into fresh metal 👍🏼
John Mason I screwed new holes into fresh metal 👍🏼
REally finding th videos helpful Looking at the video, did you 25mm self drilling screws? I am thinking of running my condiut throught the rib too, so i guess its just a case of being careful not to pierce the condiut.
thanks Greg
Man I sure wish I could find the help by someone who knows what they are doing. A lot of people are doing these vans but are they doing them right.
this is a very handy video !
Hey Greg, Really appreciate all the tips! I fully understand how you've installed the insulation kingspan board and battens then foil taped. for the next step you cover the entire ceiling with foil roll. how did you go about attaching it to the ceiling ? Thanks :)
With trim fix spray adhesive
Thanks it was a very helful answer .
Could you please about the 90° angle ruler where can I buy it from.
Many thanks
It’s a builders square and pretty sure I got it from screwfix. Most good tool sales places will do the same.
Hi Greg, in which video can i see how you put up the actual finishing vapour barrier (ceiling to walls to floor)? Do you have a video on that? I am kind of left blind on that point. Thanks for your help. Great series, thank you for sharing :-)
th-cam.com/video/nwgCNsEidaA/w-d-xo.html
Thnak you for your quick reply and help :-)
Once I had all the insulation installed I used some Trim fix adhesive to secure the foil bubble wrap. It was so easy to put on with that. Then lastly went over every joint with foil tape to seal everything. Hope that helps you 😊
That helped tremendous. I understand it now. Big Thanks :-)
Happy to help 😀
I'm wondering, you mentioned you dint screw right through the timber when apply the finished roof, to save your vapour barrier. Is this a big problem and why? As you said you plug the hole with the screws. Im about to undertake this task and I'm worried short screws not reaching the metal could brake away from the ply or just not be secure in the event of a crash or whatever.
Hi Greg loving your build series ive just one question regarding the wood your using for your build do you treat it with anything that prevents mould moisture etc . . and if so what would you recommend
cheers
As always, a great video! You answer some of the things I've been thinking about all the time. Keep up the good work! :) Got one question for you though: Did you use the stick pins for your wall insulation just like you did for the ceiling? If so, did you have to carve a hole for the stick pins to reach through the Kingspan? I'd like to know how you dealed with the 20mm thick, 150mm wide "battens" or "ribs" that in the middle of the "window" area since they are in the way of making the Kingspan sit snug up against the rest of the "window" area. Hope you get what I'm saying. Thanks a million for all the great videos!
Hello, yes I understand perfectly and I did use the stick pins. I placed them on the ribs, high point, 3 on each, top middle and bottom. The kingspan sat on the inner skin and would have been about 10mm max clear of the outer skin. I did spend a lot of time carving it to the best fit possible. Then foil taping the small gap between the panel and side wall. I’ll shoot some video tomorrow before everything gets panelled.
The stick pin bases are very pliable so you can mould them to the odd shape of the ribs. Just make sure they all stick out level and square before pushing on your board. In hindsight I should have got longer pins but these are still doing a great job. Thanks
Greg Virgoe OK, thanks for explaining! A quick video explaining furher would be lovely, maybe it can help more people like me :) Have a good weekend!
Maybe I can place the pins on the flat areas and carve out 20mm deep "channels" in the Kingspan where the ribs go. That would make a snug fit, and I wont have to mould the base of the pins.. hmm.. Anyway you got me thinking in new ways, thanks a lot!
Hey Greg, greetings from Germany, I've been really enjoying your videos, they are super informative. As I am designing my own van right now I wanted to ask what the final height (in the middle and on the sidewalls) and width (at the top and at the bottom) of the van will be after putting in the insolation, vapor barriers, bubblewrap, playwood battens, ceiling, new floor and walls? I wonder if all those things take away a lot space for the actual furniture? :)
Hello, The van measures 1.93m high in the middle, 1.9m at the edge
it measures 1.75m wide at the widest point and 1.45m at the roof level.
I have lost 15mm on the roof, 40mm on the floor and only 10mm on the walls.
Thank you for your answer Greg!
Hi there Greg. Are the self drilling screws the same size you used to fit the battens to the floor? Thanks for the great videos fella.
Hello Joe, you could do as the ribs are deep enough. I used some 1” screws only because I already had them in the workshop. Cheers
Thanks Greg...
Hi Greg
I am just about to start my Peugeot boxer L4 think what you have said and done is my path but wondering what fridge are out there would like a tall one any idea
Thanks peter
Peter Ellis if you want to be off grid for long periods of time don’t be tempted to go too big on your fridge as it’s the one thing that will be on all the time and use the most electric. Even our small 50litre compressor fridge we can get a weeks shopping into. A 3 way fridge won’t run well on 12v and will use a lot of gas. Go for a decent 12v compressor fridge. They are a bit expensive but work well.
Greg Virgoe
Sorry Greg peter again can I pick you brain on where to have a fixed bed or two seating area that converts to a bed unfortunately we can decide which way to go what benefit have you found with your
Regards
Hi Peter, not having to make up the bed every night is a huge bonus. Plus Lou can have a lie in and I can still get up make a cuppa and work without disturbing her
Hi Greg. Thinsulate black rubber for the ceiling first isolation layer and all over as much surface as you can cover, what do you think?
Hi Greg, I was wondering about the weight distribution of your sprinter van. I am not sure what the maximum weight your van will carry is, but it will a consideration to people with certain driver’s licenses. As I have mentioned in a previous post, one day I would like to convert a van and would like to know more about weight distribution, is the vans standard suspension good enough and how will weight distribution affect the van handling. Will you be weighing the van at each axle? Is this something you have to do before you can register your van as a camper / motorhome? Really enjoy watching your videos!
Hi Mark, my van has a max total weight of 3.5T so I'm being very careful to choose materials and keep the build on the lightweight side. I will, of course, have to weigh the vehicle to know I have achieved the weight limit or it will be illegal to drive it.
Hi Greg, this is a vapour barrier question. But it applies to the whole van. I’ve seen from another van build TH-camr that they do the vapour barrier then put the battons for the walls up after. My question is can I put my walls battons up first then vapour barrier over the top? This to me just seems a lot easier. Any help will be hugely appreciated 🙏🙏
Hey Greg,
Another first class video. You didn't feel it was necessary to spray foam or otherwise insulate inside the ribs? Thank you.
I didn't insulate in the ribs, I used a couple of them for pulling kopex cable ways into.
The air gap gives a very small thermal resistance and the wood is a good insulator.
Plus I'm wrapping the whole roof in Reflectix before applying my plywood headliner.
Hey Greg, really helpful videos as always! Do you think you could use 9mm ply batons for the roof? Then short screws for 8mm cladding. Trying to save height as much as possible with all roof parts
Hi Greg, love your videos. How many kingspan boards did you use on the sprinter? Mines the same model and I'm just pricing up. Thank you so much for your detailed vids!!! Kudos 👌
Hi Greg, excellent vids as usual 👌what size screws did you used to hold ply to ribs and are they stainless, also I have some aluminium multi foil barrier I was thinking of using, can you thing of any pros or cons to using it instead of reflectics, also was the ply you used for rib battens marine ply?? ATB Shane