Land Rover DIY Rust Protection Guide Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2017
- In this video I will finish the process which I protect the underside of my Defender 110. This is transferable to any major 4x4 model and the theory stays the same. I spent a lot of time with research into different coatings and for me I feel this is the better one, and one I would recommend to you.
Bilthamber products
Dynax S50:
www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-...
Dynax UB:
www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-...
University of Hertfordshire Salt spray test: www.bilthamber.com/media/downl...
POR15 Top Coat:
www.frost.co.uk/por15-blackcot...
ACF 50:
www.acf-50.co.uk/
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Great video, I bought a 90 last October, 2010 model, I’d been looking at dinitrol treatment until I saw the price of getting it done, watching this has changed my mind, I just need a vehicle lift now!
Buddy, just wanted to say thank you for your uploads, very informative! I have been looking Into this myself and frankly you just saved me so so so much work. Thank you so much! Keep it up, and if I ever see you out and about I will happily buy you a pint.
Great video man helped alot many thanks!
Great video, just wondering what do each of the different dynax products do, and do you layer them ontop of each other?
Thanks for this. Just bought my first Landrover. Will be attempting this, using these products in the next few weeks. Can you tell me a bit more about the parts you removed to get the necessary coverage? Thanks.
Hi. I removed the bumper and front grill to get access to the front part of the chassis. The rock sliders were taken off, (if you have standard sills they too can be removed, this isn't much but makes doing the top chassis rails easier. I have rear corner protectors fitted so they came off along with the tow hitch to paint the rear crossmember.To get to the axles I took the diffguards off everything else stayed on like the arms and steering rods.I took the transmission guard off too as naturally it's hiding the chassis.Big things like the exhaust I left and just masked them off.
my dad uses waxoyl and puts it on with paint sprayers. wears full body suit and mask but I still harp at him about how dirty it is. How is this holding up after a while? do you inspect every year and touch up any problem areas? might recommend this to him
Hi yes I do, Might not be an exact yearly anniversary just every summer service when I borrow the works ramp I get it up in the air. Touch areas are the mostly High impact zones and thankfully other areas are very infrequent.
hi. hows it holding up?
Hey If I can make you wait a week or two, I have recorded a recent "1 year later" ...ish video just need to edit and upload. In short it has held up well and I'm pleased with the result soo far.
ok.. looking forward to it...
still waiting get it uploaded lol.....
@@radiator0 Hi. Life has got in the way i'm afaid to say. Currently working 60 hour weeks and no time to edit. in fact as I type 05:50 AM I'm about to leave to go to work.
I will get it done as soon as I have an opportunity to do so.
I have taken a day off work (unpaid) to sit down and edit the follow up video.
th-cam.com/video/95cSURJlT0E/w-d-xo.html
Hope the results are to your expectations. I've been pleased with how the coating has performed.
What should I use for the wheel arches on my Honda once I’ve pressure washed the mud etc off? Dynax S50 or UC? It’s 10 years old so I want to prevent corrosion!
Either S50 or UB will do the trick It'll be a good idea to fully pressure wash and then Degrease using surfex HD to give it the best chance to fully adhere to the arches. I assume there isn't any corrosion as that'll need treating beforehand.
4WDSouthWest Yeah, I’m going to clean the arches thoroughly. No rust yet, but not 100% sure till I get the dirt off! Not Dynax UC then? Think I would prefer it to the brown residue.
the S50 will go on brown too.
I'll be 100% honest the UC I used doesn't have the abrasion resistance the UB or S50 I used on the landy. The rear wheel arches and footwell outers that I used it have shown some stonechips that have caused blistering / peeling of the UC. I will be doing a follow up this years and top up the underbody protection that needs it but I would suggest that the UB or S50 has better abrasion resistance. As they have stood up to the same treatment and is 100% fine underneath.
If it's a show thing then yes used UC just bear in mind the fact of possible yearly minor top ups to keep it in A1 shape.